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Waves Are Sleeping Surf Tourism and Human-Waves Relationship in Siberut, Mentawai Islands

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Waves Are Sleeping Surf Tourism and Human-Waves Relationship in Siberut, Mentawai Islands Waves are Sleeping Surf Tourism and Human-Waves Relationship in Siberut, Mentawai Islands Sarani Pitor Pakan MSc Leisure, Tourism, Environment Wageningen University 2018 A master’s thesis Waves are Sleeping: Surf Tourism and Human-Waves Relationship in Siberut, Mentawai Islands Sarani Pitor Pakan 910826640100 Date of submission: March 21 st, 2018 Thesis code: GEO-80436 Supervisors: dr. Meghann Ormond & Arjaan Pellis Examiner: prof. dr. Rene van der Duim Wageningen University Department of Environmental Sciences Cultural Geography Chair Group MSc Leisure, Tourism, Environment ii “Hidup sungguh sangat sederhana. Yang hebat-hebat hanya tafsirannya.” (Pramoedya Ananta Toer) iii I dedicate this thesis to the memory of Shanty Novriaty, the most kind-hearted of all my teachers, who passed away on January 15th, 2018. The last time we met was in FISIP UI, Depok, circa 2016. She gave me a recommendation letter for the scholarship which finally brought me to Wageningen. She said, “I always wanted to study in Wageningen, Sarani. But, I never had a chance to do so. I hope you finish my dream.” iv Acknowledgment I write this thesis with an egoistic “I”, but I will not regard this piece of work as mine. This is co- created by various beings: humans, nonhumans, animate, inanimate. In this occasion, I especially would like to thank Meghann Ormond whose supervision has given me freedom, care, and assurance to finish this thesis. Furthermore, I thank my family (Bapak, Ibu, Uti, Mas Lolo, Iik, Dek Dya, etc.) for giving me space to be whatever I want; all my friends, especially The Emily with whom I have shared this Wageningen journey; and Christal for keeping me poetic during the process. Last but not least, I want to thank all Mentawaians I encountered in Wageningen, Padang, Siberut, and Pulau: thanks for showing me kindness in its purest form. Masurabagata. Moile moile. v Disclaimer I would like to make a disclaimer about the use of pictures, figures, and non-English words in this thesis. All pictures were taken by myself during the fieldwork, except two: the cover picture which I got from Hiber Sapelege (which portrays himself surfing) and the picture of The Great Wave painting (figure 1) which I downloaded from Google. Besides, the conceptual framework (figure 2) was created by myself, while fieldwork area map (figure 3) by Wintia Arindina. The non-English words I use in this thesis are Indonesian and Mentawaian. They are in italics. vi Abstract Studies about surfing and surf tourism in Mentawai Islands have been full of numbers, profiles, and conflicts. However, the most basic materiality of surfing itself, namely waves, is rarely emphasized. Besides, academic discourses have long portrayed Mentawai’s association with land and forest, while their relationship with the sea and waves has been overlooked. Thus, this thesis explores the waves as the focus, aiming in understanding how Mentawaians relate with waves within the context of surf tourism. Drawing on Tim Ingold (2000), dwelling perspective and engagement provide theoretical tools to situate the relationship between Mentawaians and the waves. Siberut is the case studied here; through anthropology research and by employing classic qualitative methods of participant- observation, everyday conversation, and interviewing. This thesis explores the way Mentawaians engage with waves through various practices – at the sea and on the land. Their practices of engagement with waves are based on and sustained by attentiveness toward waves. Furthermore, since perception is not an a priori social/cultural construction of human mind, engagement with waves takes Mentawaians to perception. In Siberut, waves are perceived contradictory through contradiction in ‘good waves’ and contrast of fearful/playful waves. Finally, this leads to the nature of Mentawai human-waves relationship. Both relate with such intimacy, but within the dilemma of ‘avoidance/encounter’. Materiality of Mentawai waves provides a basis of such relationship. Lastly, surf tourism mediates the processes of engagement with and perception of waves among Mentawaians. This thesis adds a new case to the body of research on the human-environment relationship, while offers a different point of view to understand surf tourism phenomenon in Mentawai Islands. Moreover, this article intends to encourage two things in tourism studies: promoting scholarly quests on seemingly trivial nonhuman being, such as waves; as well as emphasizing local people’s voices, practices, and perceptions within ever-growing tourism settings. Keywords: waves, surf tourism, human-environment relationship, engagement, perception vii Table of Contents 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1. Case study ..................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1.1. Surf tourism in Mentawai ...................................................................................................... 2 1.1.2. Sea and waves: Mentawai-environment relationship ........................................................... 4 1.2. Research questions ....................................................................................................................... 6 2. Conceptual settings ............................................................................................................................... 7 2.1. Human-environment relationship ...................................................................................................... 7 2.1.1. The infamous divide: nature-culture ..................................................................................... 7 2.1.2. Dwelling perspective and engagement ................................................................................. 9 2.2. Water-human relationship .......................................................................................................... 13 2.2.1. The metaphorical and the sacred ........................................................................................ 13 2.2.2. Disconnection ...................................................................................................................... 14 2.2.3. (Re-)Learn to live with water ............................................................................................... 16 2.3. Sea-human relationship .............................................................................................................. 18 2.3.1. Sea as other ......................................................................................................................... 18 2.3.2. Engaging with sea ................................................................................................................ 20 2.3.3. The waves ~~ Within and around ........................................................................................ 22 2.4. Surfing as human-environment interaction ................................................................................ 24 2.4.1. From Hawaii to the world .................................................................................................... 25 2.4.2. Communion x conquest ....................................................................................................... 26 2.4.3. Surf tourism ......................................................................................................................... 29 2.5. Conceptual framework ................................................................................................................ 31 3. Methodology ....................................................................................................................................... 32 3.1. Setting off .................................................................................................................................... 33 3.1.1. The interplay of methods .................................................................................................... 33 3.1.2. The rationale of sampling .................................................................................................... 35 3.1.3. The ‘why’ about ‘where’ ...................................................................................................... 35 3.2. Going down to the field ............................................................................................................... 37 3.3. Talking back ................................................................................................................................. 39 4. Living with the waves .......................................................................................................................... 40 viii 4.1. Waves behind coconuts: A background ...................................................................................... 41 4.1.1. Surf tourism ......................................................................................................................... 42 4.1.2. Ladang ................................................................................................................................. 44 4.2. Attentiveness as cornerstone ...................................................................................................... 46 4.3. Being at sea ................................................................................................................................
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