2 Apparel Online India 3 Apparel Online India 4 Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India VOL. XIX Issue 2

Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Editor ILA SAXENA Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI Asst. Copy Editor SAHIL SEHGAL CONTENTS April 16-30, 2016 Asst. Editor-News DHEERAJ TAGRA Asst. Editor NEHA CHHETRI Sr. Correspondent-Textiles SANJOGEETA OJHA Sr. Correspondent-Fashion KALITA LAMBA Sr. Executive-Advertising D K CHUGH Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor HIMANSHU KUMAR Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 Operation Director MAYANK MOHINDRA 09810611487 12 26 29 32 36 Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA 09810058986, 9810438653 WorldWrap Head Office Brands let consumers own products through Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. mass customization B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 Earlier, only luxury goods makers used to personalize products Phone: 91-11-47390000 based on consumers’ needs and budget... 12 E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 [email protected] BurningIssue [email protected] Failures of SEZs, a concern: Printing Needs solutions, not political perspectives TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. The failure of the SEZs to generate both business and B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, 18 employment is again in the limelight.... New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 ------ExporterStrategy SUBSCRIPTION FORM Community Crafts Exports: “Our core business Yes, I wish to subscribe to Apparel Online for is people” BY REGULAR MAIL With strong roots in South Africa, Christiaan Bosman and 20 India Rs. 1800.00 24 issues Cornelia Bosman, Co-founders of Community Crafts Exports are BY COURIER proud to be known as ‘social entrepreneurs’... Delhi/NCR Rs. 2400.00 24 issues Rest of India Rs. 3600.00 24 issues International USD 264.00 24 issues Tex-File Birla Cellulose’s fluid innovation ‘LIVA’ Name ______partners with FDCI at AIFW to reach fashion designer fraternity Designation ______22 “We firmly believe that designers show the trend…, Company/Institute ______they create one…, and we need to work with them... Address ______Tel/Mobile ______E-mail ______H2F TYPE OF BUSINESS Meet the home furnishing firms 'surviving' Exporter Retailer Buying House in remote areas… Any other (specify) ______These companies are not in established hubs or even in those 26 Subscription within India- cities which have proper industrial areas, but are still able to Send Cheque/DD to Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. manage their home furnishing export business... B-32, South Extn. Part-1, New Delhi-110049, INDIA International subscription (in Dollar) - Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com ValueAddition Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 03192320003806 Top 5 Metal Details for S/S ’17 Collections! (Swift No:HDFCINBB) with HDFC Bank, D-9, South Extn. Part-2, New Delhi-110049. INDIA After settling fall 2016 collections, it is that time of the year when exporters and designers are now working on S/S ’17 36 collection sampling...

6 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 7 Apparel Online India FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S DESK… INDUSTRY GETTING ‘IMPATIENT’ MINISTRY TALKS, BUT FAILS TO DELIVER…

Many interesting concepts have been coined and with the evolving industry, and that too most of the launched by the Modi sarkar, from ‘Make in India’ to time without solid support from the Government. ‘Swachh Bharat Abhiyaan’ to ‘Skill India’ to ‘Start-up I have said time and again that for me the garment India’ to ‘Digital India’…, yet none of them have brought exporter is a ‘super hero’, he is juggling not only in the ‘change’ required either in the living standards with the internal issues of productivity, attrition, of ordinary Indians or the business environment. compliance, resource constraints, rising wages, cost Maybe to correct years of ‘rot’ requires time and one management… and what not…, but is also keeping an should not expect changes overnight… eye on global changes and expectation of the buyers Now I am not an expert to comment on such issues from price pressures to fast deliveries to demand of and my observations are that of a common citizen. new products. However, from the perspective of the Textile and In-between all this he is expected to work on his Garment Industry, I am very opinionated. own with no real support from the various councils The Textiles Ministry is on an overdrive to talk who have been constituted to be his mouthpiece and to industry-informed organizations, consultants, most of the time, the Government only looks upon the associations, industries groups because of PM Modi’s industry as one that is always ‘asking for drawbacks’. push for action… Verbally many things are assured No one has strongly put the industry on the national and off the record admissions are made, but to me it agenda… making sure that the Government seems that things are not moving, perhaps because understands the huge employment-generating the bureaucrat taking the lead does not understand opportunities that the industry has, provided of the industry. They are either not the right person to course, if it expands! Even the much hyped Common head the team, as they are on a short stint, or it is their Textile Policy is still to see the light of the day… Of last posting…, so the passion is missing. Above all it course, what actually will be the defining points in is the common perception among them that the textile the policy that could be instrumental in giving the industry is all about the handicraft and handloom industry the much-needed push, is another debate. industry, which clouds every mind... Though announcement of Apparel Parks have How can any team at the Ministry support the garment become almost a norm for the Textiles Ministry business if they don’t even understand the basic when attending any state function, the failure of difference between this labour-centric industry and these parks is common knowledge. In fact, a strong other high-tech or capital-intensive industries? Maybe committee should be formulated to look into all the it should be made mandatory for them to spend the private- and Government-initiated parks to investigate first two months of their posting just visiting numerous the reality… as land grabbing in the name of SEZs players in the industry – from spinning to garmenting – is becoming the next big scandal in the making. The to understand the nuances and sore points…; a lesson questions being raised regarding the Brandix Apparel learnt on the playfield is a hard lesson to forget. Park, is only the tip of the iceberg…, many unexplored worms are lying in cans waiting to be unearthed! They also need to study in-depth why our competitors are doing better…; just saying that they have We need action, not words…! It is about time the advantage of lower wages is not the right approach. Government starts implementing schemes, taking In today’s competitive environment, even in our hard measures to bring about changes and stops labour-intensive industry, wages alone are not the worrying about treading an a few toes. Even the best differentiator and it is about time that the bosses in the of intentions are of no value if they are not translated Ministry understand and appreciate this fact. into something tangible! It may sound like ‘I’ve given up hope’, but that is The industry is tired of hearing the same old certainly not the truth… Having run Apparel Online excuses… as every year we hear that the FTA will be on the principles of positivity for the last 20 years, signed, labour laws will be changed, industry-friendly I have seen many ups and downs of the industry… budget will be announced and new policies that will I have seen the abolishing of the quota regime; the give thrust to the industry are in the making… Can we emergence and implementation of the compliance hope for at least some of them to come true in 2016! concepts; the phenomenal growth of competitive My ‘impatience’ at the inactiveness of the Ministry manufacturing destinations like Bangladesh and is a reflection of the many discussions I have with Vietnam; the slow, but definite pull-out of China from the industry. People are slowly losing faith and the the textile industry, the recessions in global markets…; positive spirit of two-and-a-half years ago is dying and above all, the struggle of the industry to keep pace out… When will acche din come?

8 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 9 Apparel Online India MINDTREE

Harpreet Singh, Director, Golden Art The recently concluded Première Vision (PV) Paris (16-18 Feb. 2016) Exports, Noida  Such international fairs witnessed 55,025 visitors from 123 countries. France leads with more certainly deserve visits, but I feel that being than 15,070 visitors while 1,258 visitors were from Japan (10th in a buyer-driven market with companies like rank); however, the event did not notice enthusiastic visitation from MIND us just following the buyer’s orders rather India as compared to the size of Indian textile and apparel industry. What could be the reasons for the same? Share your views and than focusing more on own PD, we do not experience regarding the same. If you did visit this addition of PV, really get value. It might help to develop one’s TREETOPIC OF DEBATE what did you achieve that others missed…, please share. own designs and to grab more orders but we don’t have enough resources to focus on PD; secondly, capacities are limited and to Aastha Kapoor, Creative Director, than that. Even after buying 10 prints I still feel expand capacity is risky looking to the market Affordable Exports, Delhi  Visiting PV is there is much more to gain. Be it prints, fabrics conditions from the last few years. quite an expensive affair for most exporters, or anything related to product development especially looking at the current market (PD), PV has something for everyone. Rajni Seth, Director, Rahul Fashions, scenario. An exporter today has neither a Noida  The lack of visitation is all due to good price nor good quantities, mostly due B Kathiravan, Managing Partner, Kiwi the slack approach of the organizers or to the pressure of fast fashion which only Clothing, Tirupur  I feel nowadays less publicity of the events. Few years ago adds to the lesser enthusiasm in these kinds communication is much faster and market I attended PV at Copenhagen as I received of events. Being a designer, it is important intelligence is available much easier, and in its invitation three months ahead of the for me to visit the fair and the recently detail. Sourcing, especially of raw material, event, which made it possible to plan in concluded edition was my third visit to the is not a big challenge today. If you can buy, advance. One may be surprised to know that show; I also believe that buying prints from suppliers are now at your doorstep. Like only sometimes my buyers are also not aware here was a great experience. Every time I last week I got 10 samples which were quite of many fairs and they get to know about visit, there is a kind of newness that adds to unique and new to me, my team got it easily in them through me only. Organizers of such my collection whether by way of new prints, whatever quantity they needed. Secondly, most events have to understand that they should accessories or fabrics. Designers work hard of the developments displayed in such fairs are inform in a proper way and that too well in to sell their artwork, which cost my company experimental for companies like us and regular advance so that one can plan international from Euro 150 to Euro 700 or even higher fabrics and regular prints are still in demand. visits accordingly.

10 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com MINDTREE

Rama Chandra Debaraj Beura, Chief industry, I feel PD-based manufacturers are Manager – Printing, Ludhiana  Our various less and even if someone wants to explore teams visit PV or such other events regularly PD, sourcing of latest raw material is an issue and do find some interesting developments. in terms of minimum quantities. In future, MIND As Indian garment manufacturing community FTA with Europe or such initiatives will help is not going there enthusiastically, it is the garment industry. In that case PD will be definitely loosing. Though companies in benefited. I do feel that every organization has TREE Italy and such other countries are also doing a budget for such events, fair participation QUESTION small orders but they have something superb but when not even one fair proves successful in their offering. As there are two ways of it impacts negatively, so every fair should On 23 June 2016, the UK will business – volume and niche – most of the prove fruitful and organizers should do their settle a question of historical Indian companies are doing volume business best in this area. I still remember that a few importance – Should the country though their orders are small and in fact they years ago our experience of a Russian fair was remain within the European are losing what is possible by not keeping a disheartening. Union (EU) or leave and go it deep focus on PD. And this level of PD is not alone... There are advantages and possible without going to these fairs. As a disadvantages of being a part of solution, stakeholders can come together to Mustapha Kamal, Fabric Sourcing/R&D, Trend Europe. The greatest uncertainty is that no country has ever done organize such good events in India so that Setters International, Delhi  Everybody knows about the current apparel export it before, so no one can predict more and more Indians can visit without the exact result. But it will impact spending much. scenario, in these conditions, expenditure of Rs. 2 lakh (travel and sample collection cost, etc.) Trade, Investment, and Jobs in UK as well as in Europe, for on a fair/PD is a costly affair, and despite that sure… If you are working mainly Paramjeet Singh, Sr. Merchandiser, Cascade there is no guarantee that all these efforts will with UK, what according to you Enterprises, Ludhiana  Our team has fetch some extra orders from any buyer. In my are the main fears with regards visited this show and some of the new yarn opinion, Indian suppliers like Surat-based fabric to your exports? Do you want the developments were quite interesting. I hope companies should develop products which are UK to remain with the EU…, why? these developments will prove interesting closer to the international developments or as buyers and even consumers seem bored displayed at PV and save the exporter the effort Be a part of our latest discussions... with cotton or regular fabrics. In regards to of going international for the same. Post your comments on www.apparelresources.com

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 11 WORLDWRAP

BRANDS LET CONSUMERS OWN PRODUCTS THROUGH MASS CUSTOMIZATION

Earlier, only luxury goods makers used to personalize products based on consumers’ needs and budget, but now with even ‘common people’ striving to be individual and stand-out, brands have slowly started to offer what has popularly come to be known as mass customization that promises to give individuality to the product design process. As a result, a trend which was traditionally restricted only for high-end luxury brands such as Burberry, is now being seen and embraced by mass brands such as Nike, Converse, etc. and also trickling to prêt collections.

etting off the mass According the classic All-Star pairs to the S customization trend in to Forrester slightly more chic Jack Purcell sportswear, Nike launched Research’s report leather editions. its highly successful titled ‘Mass Many luxury fashion brands platform NIKEiD, allowing its customization is have launched customization consumers to add personalized (finally) the future platforms like Louis Vuitton’s look and feel to its products. of products’ Mon Monogram, which lets ‘Ultra-Cool. Made for You’ – the describes it in consumers add personal initials slogan at Nike.com for NIKEiD, two stages – first, and colours to the brand’s bags, an online service that allows the customer and Prada Customize, which customers to create their own besides letting people add participates in clothing by customizing the personal lettering to bags, also design by making colour, design, and even some allows them to configure their choices around of the performance features to own shoes and sunglasses. The get their gear exactly how they particular features; personalized monogram service want it. This service is helping and second, the Mon Monogram also allows Nike take advantage of direct-to- manufacturer customers to choose from the consumer sales and earn more produces a Speedy and Neverfull handbags profits. The Nike Management unique built-to- and the Keepall and Pégase claims that NIKEiD was one of order product travel bags, in all sizes, and add the company’s points of focus in for delivery to their own colourful stripes and reaching its goal of US $ 5 billion the customer. initials. Customers can also play in online sales by the end of the around with options such as FY 2015. ‘Converse’, yet another trying different bags, different According sportswear brand which is sizes, moving the stripe from to Elizabeth owned by Nike, debuted its own side to middle, choosing from Spaulding, mass customization platform in 17 colours, adding a full-stop 2005 and today, about 10 to 12 Head of Bain & between the letters, resulting in per cent of its total business at Company’s Digital more than 200 million possible the New York store Transformation combinations per bag. Group, optimum goes through Not far behind, British luxury lead times vary customization. brand Burberry launched the Because of by product: Burberry Scarf Bar, a simpler the huge “Footwear service that lets customers popularity of customers are monogram their initials on their products, willing to wait scarves (priced between US their website three to four weeks $ 475 and US $ 995), ponchos and now offers for a product to perfumes made from colours, customizable be delivered, fabric weights and patterns sneakers, but interest in of their choosing, reflect a available customised men’s recalibration of the company’s in several shirts declined approach to customisation. popular after a two-week Launched online and in stores, selections like wait time.” the ‘Scarf Bar’ allows shoppers to

12 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com WORLDWRAP

design a classic cashmere scarf, are also putting the customers in completely personalized to their the designer’s seats as a sense own specifications. With more of control is appealing to many than 30 colourways available as finicky shoppers. However, the well as 30 shades of thread for concept is not a cakewalk and embroidering initials, it’s the first can be hard to operationalize time the company has offered due to timely production being this large, customizable offering a major challenge. One example for accessories. of a failed venture in mass Bespoke tailoring from high- customization is Tinker Tailor, end Savile Row to mass market a mass customization platform Indochino, an e-commerce for designer fashion that let start-up that lets you buy a customers tweak runway pieces made-to-measure suit without by designers like Marchesa and leaving the couch, have become Giambattista Valli, that closed eternal success stories. Bow & shop last year. Though the Drape is another such brand orders were placed right after which has its strong foothold the shows ended, it took the in clothing for the millennial garments three to four months generation, offering trend-driven to reach consumers, which clothing and accessories with actually defeated the purpose. tonnes of options to personalize. The company also did offer For example, a pair of US $ 135 own-label garments that could

Bow & Drape is another such brand which has its strong foothold in clothing for the millennial generation, offering trend-driven clothing and accessories with tonnes of options to personalize tailored shorts is available in be custom-built from scratch, two colours and two lengths, which took four to six weeks with 71 appliqué options, 24 to deliver though the company embroideries and 10 fonts for aimed to reduce it to three days. monogramming. While some This lag in delay was one of the pieces take under two weeks to many reasons for Tinker Tailor produce, others take up to four, to close shop. and where everything is cut- Not just restricted to mass and-sewn or at least finished fashion or luxury, customization at factories in New York and on is now sweeping through the the West Coast. Piol, another whole of retail, with many new New York-based start-up, offers start-ups focusing on meeting the bespoke made in New York customer’s needs before making dresses in five styles and over them brand loyalist. When 56,000 combinations. (A cotton industry experts say “It’s a big shift dress is priced at US $ 545.) open space right now,” this holds Clearly, the opportunities for especially true for customized mass customization are wide, fashion, which is on the verge of and of late a slew of start-ups breaking through!

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 13 SUSTAINABILITY

New standard of Fairtrade is ‘fair’; extends to the entire textile value chain

ver the time there have the Fairtrade approach to the been many attempts to entire textile supply chain. Since the introduction of Otackle the entire value “By committing to Fairtrade, Fairtrade certified cotton chain for ethical practices and companies can now help improve in 2005, Fairtrade has benchmarks, without much the social and economic well- been facing the question success. The difference between being of workers across the the new Fairtrade approach, vis- entire production chain,” says and challenge of how à-vis other existing standards, Martin Hill, Interim CEO to extend the Fairtrade is the fact that new Fairtrade at Fairtrade International. approach to the entire standard is viewing the entire The new standard (applicable parts/segments of the supply from1st June 2016) is based value supply chain for chain coherently, as against the on Fairtrade’s existing Hired textiles. Responding to current approach to observe Labour Standard and focuses the need, and after much each separately; right from the on working conditions, living crop to the production, into wages and workers’ rights, and deliberation, Fairtrade is open to other sustainable has recently launched fibres as well as cotton. It is the ‘Fairtrade Textile being claimed that it’s the first standard to require living wages Standard’ and the textile to be paid within a set time programme, with the goal period – six years – and brand of improving the living owners will also be contractually responsible for fair and long- and working conditions of term purchasing practices textile workers throughout – essential for implementing the supply chain and wage increases. Overall, the strengthen their rights. standard aims to empower factory workers and enable them Though the effort is to negotiate labour conditions noteworthy, the move independently. has been criticized by Till now none of the brands Clean Clothes Campaign have come forward for this new standard which is applicable (CCC), which raised from June 2016 onwards. concerns, saying that it Fairtrade is currently in conversation with businesses will not benefit garment The Fairtrade approach to sustainable and ethical manufacturing in several countries and hopes workers. However, the to announce first partnerships Fairtrade doesn’t think the soon. A critical question that points raised by the CCC the factory; it is an improved arises is – When already plenty version. It also tells you how of compliance/certifications are justified as its new to do it, not just what to do. are available for garment approach is innovative It makes people understand manufacturing, what is the and different in a number the critical ‘why’s and how’s’ requirement for one more... “We and gives the factory time and of ways. As of now there are going beyond certification,” information regarding the right says Abhishek Jani, Chief are 65 certified Fairtrade resources in order to make Executive Officer, Fairtrade companies in India them understand how to achieve India. He adds, “Now Fairtrade the goals. It’s not a check and the organization is has developed its own social list or corrective action plan and environment parameters/ enthusiastic about its new programme, but it is much more standard for entire supply chain standard, confident that evolved and coherent process. and it is the only standard in more and more companies In fact, Fairtrade’s new Textile the textile industry worldwide Standard and Programme are which covers the entire chain will go for it in future. designed to tackle challenging from cotton to garmenting in one working conditions by extending cohesive programme, has a time

14 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com SUSTAINABILITY

bound target for implementing VOICES IN industry and even risks slowing living wage, is supporting the SUPPORT OF down progress made in the last INDUSTRIALL’S process by training management THE NEW few years. EYES ON as well as workers and is also However, the Fairtrade CAMBODIA’S standing-by for further capacity FAIRTRADE APPROACH… International does not agree TRADE UNION LAW building.” with the objections raised “Training, In a bid to protect workers’ Though many industry-informed and on being questioned by communication and rights, following the have appreciated the move, Apparel Online its response recently passed Trade Clean Clothes Campaign communicating was comprehensive and Union Law, IndustriALL (CCC) has raised 4 points expectations from the confident. “No other standard Global Union has decided of concern – product label standard are main or approach covers the entire to keep a close watch aspects that need approach is not the right tool production chain; goes beyond on Cambodia’s textile to be communicated for this industry; the standard compliance with core labour and garment industry to the facilities, diverts responsibility away rights (ILO Labour Standards) front. In this regard, from brands; a standard which are involved. to strengthen workers’ position IndustriALL’s General relying on inspections and Training is the most to be able to collectively protect Secretary, Jyrki Raina certification is dangerous; and important aspect, their rights (through training, said, “The new trade union fourthly, marking garments which involves training support for workers to form law must not be used as ‘fairtrade’ without paying on expectations, or strengthen a union or other to undermine workers, a living wage, is unacceptable requirements and workers’ organization); requires but to strengthen them. and only misleads consumers. understanding of the a living wage; or offers a The fundamental right of An official statement from CCC gaps. It’s not just comprehensive on-site support workers to organize and says, “These standards allow programme,” says an e-mail a training module, bargain collectively is vital an implementation period of from the organisation. It further which is applicable to to achieving better wages six years for a living wage. added that Fairtrade approach everyone. The experts and working conditions in The standard foresees that the goes beyond auditing; it does Cambodia.” factory management has to sign need to ensure that not just rely on audits, but will On March 17, IndustriALL an implementation plan with the facilities don’t just provide comprehensive on-site had written to the Prime workers representatives, but the jump into the standard training to help companies Minister, highlighting a factory has no guarantee that implementation and workers achieve and slew of concerns for the the buyers stay as prices go up. programme directly. maintain certification. workers that the draft If the burden of implementing In order to ensure In a further clarification, law did not seem to meet. a living wage lies entirely on a successful Fairtrade highlights that the However, the Government the supplier, CCC fears that no implementation, the new approach also focuses on did go ahead with the law, factory management will commit experts first have transparent communication adopting it on April 4, to such a plan. Brands need to to communicate for consumers and long-term amid violent clashes play a central role in reaching a what is needed, commitment and rules for between the trade unions living wage. Marking garments what is expected, brands. “We whole-heartedly and the Government. From as ‘fairtrade’ before a living and then bridge the agree that responsibility can’t the very beginning of this wage was actually being paid current gap through only be demanded from factories issue, IndustriALL had to the workers, is unacceptable communication and but also, and most importantly, vehemently opposed the for CCC. It is misleading for training. As a result, from brands. It is thus important “draconian” trade union consumers and allows for people will be happy for ordering companies to act law. It was in October disproportionate marketing 2014 that the law draft to be involved and responsibly by means of fair benefits for brands.” and responsible purchasing was made public for happy to improve. I The CCC objections also points practices and long-term the first time, and since think Fairtrade would out that the standard includes contractual partnerships, which then IndustriALL, along be much appreciated complex and costly requirements are essential for living wages with other organizations for factories, but does not as a partner because to be reached and maintained has repeatedly shown require brands to commit to with their help, in the long-term. The standard dissent over the trade real change in terms of their they will improve a therefore includes recommended union law saying that the purchasing and operating lot,” says Dr. Siva purchasing practices for brands law does not meet the practices. Further, the standard Pariti, Sustainable to make partnerships with required international does not sufficiently address Textiles Solutions, providers possible,” says the labour standards. the challenges in the garment Singapore. email from Fairtrade.

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 15 SUSTAINABILITY

Levis makes its ‘Water

Anti-odour o celebrate the World Water all apparel companies, to clothing TDay, Levis Strauss is making accelerate their own innovation could affect its innovative Water

16 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 17 Apparel Online India BURNINGISSUE

Failures of SEZs, a concern Needs solutions, not political perspectives

Brandix Apparel Park is in the news for non-compliance of commitment with regard to employment generation in defined time frame

he failure of the SEZs to generate There are only Five Auditor General of India observed a Tboth business and employment Functional SEZs for curious trend, wherein developers is again in the limelight. Recently, textile and apparel approached the Government P. Vishnu Kumar Raju, BJP floor as notified under the for allotment or purchase of land for leader in the Andhra Pradesh SEZ Act, 2005: an SEZ, and a few years after it was Legislative Assembly demanded that achieved sought de-notification of the the State Government must resume 1. Brandix India Apparel same land. The audit reported that the excess 700 acres of land from City Private Limited in these six states, 52 SEZs involving Brandix India Apparel City Pvt. Duppituru, Doturupalem 5,402.22 hectares of land (14%) got Ltd. (BIAC) since it has been able Maruture and de-notified and the land in question to provide direct employment to Gurujaplen Villages in got diverted for other commercial only 18,000 persons against the Visakhapatnam District, purposes. The actual extent of de- promised 60,000 persons in five years Andhra Pradesh – notified land might be higher; as from commencement. Textile many as 46 SEZs were not produced On first thought, Raju’s statement 2. Mas Fabric Park (India) for audit, while in case of one SEZ, rings true because the Government Pvt. Ltd. Chintavaram an incomplete file was submitted. In a has provided land at a concessional village, Chillakru final masterstroke, the performance rate of Re. 1 per acre per year for Mandal, Nellore District, review of SEZs by the CAG underlines 25 years and spent US $ 35 million Andhra Pradesh – a moot question: “Considering the (Rs. 227.69 crore) on building other Textile and Apparel huge extent of land that had been facilities for the Apparel Park only 3. Gujarat Industrial de-notified with no economic activity because there was a promise to Development for several years, the big question provide direct employment to 60,000 Corporation that remains to be answered is persons but is reclaiming the land Ahmedabad, Gujarat – whether this land would be returned a solution to the overall problem of Apparel to original owners from whom it was purchased invoking ‘public SEZs failing to perform through the 4. Karnataka Industrial purpose’ clause.” country, let alone in AP. Be it in AP or Area Development even in the most industrial-friendly Board (KIADB) Village In the particular case of Brandix state of Gujarat, SEZs have not Perumenahally, India Apparel City, when Apparel proved successful, especially where Kokkanagatta, Sumudra Online contacted the company, it the textile and garment factories are Vally, Hamumanthapura, refused to comment officially. But concerned. There are seven SEZ in Taluk Hassan, a company sources informed on the country dedicated to the textile/ Karnataka – Textile the condition of anonymity, “It is apparel sector, but none of them are 5. IG3 Infra Limited (ETL right that the company is not able running to optimal expectations. Infrastructure Services to provide employment even less On November 28, 2014, a 130-page- Limited) Vadamugam than half compared to the target, long Performance Audit Report on Kangeyampalayam but the demand is politically moved. Special Economic Zones was tabled in Village, Perundurai Government policies are responsible Parliament. During the audit scrutiny Taluka, Erode District, for such a situation as initially for this report, the Comptroller and Tamil Nadu – Textile companies in SEZs get benefit

18 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BURNINGISSUE

from Income Tax but later the Commerce Ministry had Government imposed MAT suggested tax for removal (Minimum Alternate Tax) and or reduction of MAT on all WHY SEZs...? that too with the rate of 18.5%. SEZ developers and units. Secondly, challenging global As part of the budget on Special Economic Zones policy came up with an ambition to conditions since 2008 is also February 29, a reduced MAT surge manufacturing and export-led growth, develop backward an important reason for slow @ 9% was proposed for areas of the country and create five lakh new employments in response from the industry. the International Financial three years. SEZs were meant to incentivize Services Centre (IFSC) in an Above all, targets were to be achieved by creating: setting up factories, were built SEZ in Gujarat, while retaining  Single window and speedy approvals. to strengthen India’s export 18.5% MAT on all other SEZ  Empowered Approval Committee. market and unfortunately developers and units. No doubt garment export is still not the SEZ policy is not realising its  Stable tax regime. growing as it is expected to.” vision and that there is a need  Provide world-class infrastructure. for comprehensive overhaul. The State Government had But, while looking at September 2014 data of SEZs, till now Now, in the wake of the fact signed an MoU with Brandix 564 formally approved SEZs were created in which only 192 that the Indian exports have Lanka Ltd. in July 2005 when are operational. Even CAG audit report shows 52% allotted declined from US $ 314 billion an SPV was formed with land remained idle and in fact 57% of SEZs were in IT and Brandix holding 76% share and in FY’14 to US $ 310 billion in ITES. Only 9.6% were for multi-product manufacturing sectors. The incremental employment is 11 lakh in nine years.

REASONS FOR FAILURE OF SEZs

Special Economic Zones when passed after 5 years of rigorous parliamentary debate was believed to be the silver bullet that would bring the Indian manufacturing and other export sectors out from the doldrums. The legislative backing ensured there was stability and predictability of rules and schemes. But to the surprise of many, SEZs have largely failed because: 1. The Minimum Alternative Tax (MAT) neutralized the tax benefits that SEZs used to have. 2. The complementary infrastructure outside SEZs was missing. Most Apparel Parks, even those in Gujarat, have not been able to attract investments from the industry and are becoming idle land with no value returns 3. Better opportunities in the neighbourhood because of Free Trade Agreements. 4. Competition from Domestic Tariff Areas. the Government 24% share, FY ’15 and exports in FY ’16 and gave 1,000 acres land. are expected to shrink further But SEZ as an idea has not failed; it has created significant The Government invested US to nearly US $ 260 billion, the number of jobs, helped sectors like real estate and still has the $ 35 million (Rs. 227.69 crore) Government is considering potential to be the real growth engines of Indian economy if the towards providing power, water several measures, such as existing norms are amended to better suit the current situation. supply pipelines, and laying offering incentives for small The Minimum Alternate Tax (MAT) is a tax levied under roads to the Apparel Park. It is exporters and a package to India’s Income Tax Act of 1961 that targets companies that also being said that under the revive Special Economic Zones show profits on their books and declares dividends, but pays lease agreement, the BIAC has (SEZs), to help reverse the minimal or no tax. In simple terms, companies have to pay to surrender the balance of land trend of a prolonged contraction minimum 18% of MAT on their profits. This provision was in proportion to employment in merchant exports since introduced because generally these companies manipulate not generated to the APIIC December 2014. Labour- their balance sheets and show no profit, by shifting their profits (Andhra Pradesh Industrial intensive export sectors and into subsidiary activities and thus saving taxes. Infrastructure Corporation) organic food producers will get Dividend distribution tax is the tax levied by the Indian failing which it has to pay lease concessions and a package is on Government on companies according to the dividend paid to a rental at market rates. the anvil for SEZs so that they company’s investors. In pre-Budget discussions can utilize large tracts of unused with the Finance Ministry, land available with them.

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 19 EXPORTERSTRATEGY

Community Crafts Exports “Our core business is people”  A commercial business model on the foundation of social enterprise  Creativity and multiple products, the core strength  Buyers support with regular orders and better price

ommunity Crafts Exports, offering As far the challenges of infrastructure a wide range of products that and managing manpower is concerned, With strong roots in South Cincludes home furnishing, tees, for such a wide variety of products, Africa, Christiaan Bosman accessories, and currently completing an the company shares that it trains its order of kidswear, is now looking to start operators in such a way that they become and Cornelia Bosman, Co- a leather bag manufacturing unit. Unlike multi-skilled and comfortable with all founders of Community many other exporters, Community Craft products. To achieve this daunting has not developed a product category. task, Community Craft takes help from Crafts Exports (Open “We feel it is our strength to be able to industry friends, spends more on R&D, Hand), Delhi do not boast produce so many products, as being a and as a last resort outsources the of having 150 machines, creative company for us it is difficult value addition or operations wherever to just focus on a particular product it is not possible in-house. “We are but are proud to be known category; besides the core team also trying to set up separate sections for as ‘social entrepreneurs’, which implies that the focus of the enterprise is ‘people’ and they support their staff with liberal attitude and policies. A company, which has no specialization in a particular product category but offers ‘everything’ to its buyers, is expanding further with new unit… In an exclusive interaction with Apparel Online, the duo shared their experience and vision in running a company that is very people-centric.

Team Spirit: Christiaan Bosman, Cornelia Bosman and Harendra Kumar Tiwari from Community Crafts Exports

keeps stretching the boundaries to bring every product category; and since now out newness. I firmly believe that this we have moved to Okhla, things will be diversity really helps, especially with more organized and easy. But we will the changing market conditions. Days keep the same business model as we are gone when one could grow on the love to work on variety and it also gives base of a single product category. Our us more business. We also realize that business model requires a lot of sampling maximum processes have to be in-house and sometimes we have more samples to be competitive,” says Harendra than shipments… But it is also a tool to Kumar Tiwari, Production Manager get more orders as new buyers also like of the company. Technical expertise of our samples. It enhances our skills too,” the company also helps us to execute the reasons Christiaan and Cornelia. different product orders.

20 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com EXPORTERSTRATEGY

About 20 years ago the duo wanted to have a similar business model in South Africa, but it was not possible there, so they came to India. “One thing was very clear to us that whatever we will do, it will not be just for money; we have to support the society also. To a foreigner, two things appeal most about India: Besides spirituality, it’s clothing and food here. We decided to start with clothing. And at that time opportunities were plenty; even today there are no less opportunities. When we started no one had heard about ‘social entrepreneurs’ and things were not easy for us as we were quite young and had limited resources. But now people are very clear that apart from strong bottom line, social aspect is also important. At least the ‘people’ that are working ‘with you’, ‘for you’, must be taken care of. We are lucky to have a good team with us and now we are growing,” the duo said.

Embroidered cushion covers giving a feel of painting as pieces are rarely seen

No product specialization, but Harendra strongly says that amazed at the working culture great focus on sampling means nobody in the factory ever raises of the organization. “It is for the higher salary to staff, workers his/her voice, forget about using first time that I have seen that and more benefits to employees abusing language. “We try to hire social compliance is in the warp to manage costing. “There such people who don’t get, or find and weft of the organization,” “We keep are buyers (Beulah London, it hard to get job anywhere else is what the company claims he learning new London Zoo, Portchie, Athleta, due to certain reasons (medical, said. There are indeed very few things and new Highland Graphics, Triple Auth, social, personal) and pay them companies that have such a ways, be it any G-Adventure and many more) who living wage. These are the people unique business model and are style, product or care and pay for the extra we are growing commercially also. who energize us and make us feel any new business providing,” says Christiaan. There that we do something worthwhile. With the advantage of a strong idea. We don’t are also such buyers who believe To train such people is difficult networking of its existing have the thinking in our genuine efforts rather than and involves a long process, but buyers who proudly introduce or attitude just compliance, certification and most amazing thing is that it pays the company to new buyers, of ‘I know documentation. These kinds of us, and is compatible with our Community Crafts is expecting everything’.” buyers both respect and support philosophy. We don’t believe in good growth and is upbeat for the – Christiaan us in a big way due to our social CSR programmes because CSR is future. “In recent years I never got Bosman commitments. Business like ours like ‘plug and play’. My concern any call from our buyers regarding can work in this way only. Due is ethical manufacturing which any complaint on quality, delivery “Overseas to small order sizes, working is in the DNA of an organization. or such issues and similarly buyers are more with boutique buyers, high-value We offer these people an option we don’t have stock of fabric or comfortable with garments with higher FOBs to work in the department of leftover due to excess production, us. We better and good quality parameters their choice or passion, even in I feel it pays us in all the way,” understand (no rejection/alteration) and our other departments or other argues Cornelia. them and easily reasonable margins we easily businesses also (the company The company further has plans communicate manage the costing. We do have is into few other business too) with them. On to expand its operations in the routine orders from some of we follow the same practice. the other side we Faridabad and in addition to our customers and we also have Sometimes we say no to orders do have a strong whatever it is already doing, our brand. So we keep engaging where our people have to work understanding leather products will be the new our machines most of the time. mindlessly,” avers Christiaan. The of India as we category which they see as a This also helps us in terms of company also has an employee- have seen India growing segment. Community costing. Sometime we do have friendly holiday policy. transforming Crafts also has plans to double reasonably good size orders also. completely.” Some time ago, a social the capacity by adding 150 more Companies like us are a good – Cornelia compliance person who was machines, hopefully within the option for the top brand to get Bosman involved in the social compliance next 2 years. It is also starting their limited addition orders and of 400 factories across China, direct shipping (retail export) we do that happily.” Vietnam and Indonesia came across the world for one of its Whereas staff-friendly policies from Shanghai to the factory buyers who is very strong with its or fair practices are concerned, of Community Crafts and was online presence.

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 21 TEX-FILE

Birla Cellulose’s fluid innovation ‘LIVA’ partners with FDCI at AIFW to reach fashion designer fraternity

ashion is a creative self-expression 22 major brands and more are planned for “We firmly believe that F that is constantly evolving, and the coming season. Participation of LIVA as designers show the trend…, the Fashion Design Council of India the official partner of the AIFW, Delhi had they create one…, and (FDCI) provides the perfect platform for three core directions. Firstly, presenting we need to work with representing, nurturing, promoting, and Liva fabrics to the fashion industry with them as we are all facing bringing extraordinary fashion talents to the ready to dye/print options which have fore. For fashion designers the challenge is exceptional fluidity are nature-based and the consumers together,” to bring out fresh collections season after driven by fashion. It was also important to said Manohar Samuel, season for which they are always looking communicate the availability of Liva fabric President – Marketing, out for innovations in fabrics and fibres to in small commercial quantities through explore what new they can create. LIVA’s LIVA partners, as Liva has tied up with Birla Cellulose, owners of participation as the official partner at the two retail partners in New Delhi, Surat, the brand Liva that promises Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW) held Kolkata, Ahmedabad, and Hyderabad for natural fluid fashion. Birla in New Delhi recently was an endeavour smooth supply. Above all, the company was Cellulose, a group company to bridge this gap and reach to the fashion keen to showcase the latest collections that of the Aditya Birla Group, designer fraternity. “As one of the largest offer 200 fabrics in each season designed in textile and fashion conglomerates in the conjunction with WGSN, International Design known for its focus on country we believe that Indian fashion Consultants and LIVA, led by global brands. innovation in all its spheres landscape is extremely dynamic and its Market research involving designers, of activity, is considered a talent pool rich and diverse. LIVA is a new retailers and consumers has shown world leader in man-made age natural fabric and has been accepted exceptional potential for designer wear. cellulose fibres. With Liva well by the textile value chain,” said Samuel. “Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) that was inaugurated with With the textile value chain eagerly lapping and Amazon India Fashion Week provide up the new age concept, now it is the turn a setup to collaborate with extraordinary much fanfare last year, of the fashion community. “Liva gives fashion talent,” added Samuel. While the the company has moved an opportunity to designers to explore LIVA Accredited Partner Forum has really up the value chain and is themselves because it is really fluid. It grown and is catering to many domestic now looking to enter the enables them to use their creativity in brands fuelling manufacturing in India, the whatever way they like,” says Samuel. company now feels the need to associate design domain through Quality, Innovation and Service are three with designer’s community, which it is collaborations with the main mantras for LIVA to excel, based on doing in several ways. “We connect with fashion fraternity. which the company is already tied up with top designers at events like Amazon India

Designer Abhijeet Khanna at the LIVA Lounge with Manohar Samuel, President – Marketing, Birla Cellulose Visitors at the LIVA Lounge at the Amazon India Fashion Week held in New Delhi recently

22 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com TEX-FILE

Fashion Week and other fashion shows. For young designers our initiative “LIVA Protégé is a very good platform to connect,” informed Samuel. The LIVA Protégé initiative at its first edition, Liva Protégé 2015, went designer hunting pan-India to identify India’s future stars in the field of fashion. The hunt covered over 12 cities, top 50 fashion institutes and touched more than a hundred students across India. The shortlisted finalists belong to India’s top fashion schools, namely NIFT, Pearl, BD Somani, NID and Raffles. The qualified designers represented a range of unique styles and talents with each of them having Brand Liva their own masterpieces to showcase on the is made final day. Birla Cellulose has even sponsored using natural a ‘Natural Fibre Chair’ at National Institute cellulosic of Designing (NID) Ahmedabad. In addition fibres which to this, the company offers internship to 15 are produced fashion students every year. from wood pulp, a natural Eco-friendly and sustainable fashion has come to the forefront in the last renewable few years; however for Birla Cellulose, resource. The sustainability is all about meeting present pulp used is needs without compromising the ability of from trees future generations to meet their own needs. which are The company is a collaborative partner specifically for sustainable business across the chain grown for this and works with leading global brands on purpose, which sustainability programmes. Brand Liva is implies that made using natural cellulosic fibres which more new trees are produced from wood pulp, a natural are planted renewable resource. The pulp used is and are later from trees which are specifically grown cut. It gives for this purpose, which implies that more the earth a new trees are planted and are later cut. It much-needed gives the earth a much-needed green cover, green cover, saves 6-7 times more land in comparison to saves 6-7 times cotton, and also preserves 3-4 times more more land in water than usual. comparison After viewing a lot of shows at the Amazon to cotton, India Fashion Week, the key trends like and also fluidity, ruffles and the designer’s inclination preserves 3-4 towards sustainable causes surely has made times more the brand look forward to a lot of upcoming water than opportunities. “A lot of designers have usual. approached us… JJ Valaya, Rohit Bal, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Gaurav Gupta and many more,” shared with Samuel enthusiastically. The brand aims to make fabric readily available to designers and let them get their colour and prints added on demand. Liva stocks all 13 kinds of fabrics that it produces in knits and woven, which can be customized according to demand, thus offering opportunities for fresh creativity. The brand is now earnestly looking forward to carrying the goodwill it has created at the AIFW to the next level, exploring more good opportunities in the designer segment of their consumer profile.

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 23 TEX-FILE

30-hectare plot set aside for Textile Park in Raipur Tex Find s part of the Indian to provide one-stop integrated a recreation centre will also be AGovernment’s approved facilities with manufacturing provided within the textile park. projects, worth US $ 15 million support, welfare and common Currently, the Urla Industrial (Rs. 99 crore), meant for infrastructure facilities to the Area in Raipur and Sirgitti upgrading some of the key prospective textile industries. Industrial Area in Biilaspur industrial infrastructure in It is aimed to house a world- are being upgraded to include the state of Chhattisgarh, the class ecosystem for the textile infrastructural development like Chhattisgarh Government will industry, state officials have said. better roads, water and power be developing a textile park. A testing laboratory and a design supply facilities. The Centre has For this, the Chhattisgarh centre (including equipment), already approved an estimated ‘VEGAN LEATHER’ State Industrial Development a training centre, a trade & US $ 8 million (Rs. 54.81 crore) DEVELOPED FROM Corporation (CSIDC) has display centre, conferencing for upgrading the infrastructural PINEAPPLE identified a 30-hectare plot of land and meeting facilities, a facilities at Urla Industrial at Khapri village in the state’s warehouse or raw material Area and around US $ 7 million The objections to the Raipur district. The proposed depot, packaging unit, a canteen (Rs. 44.60 crore) for Sirgitti use of pure leather, is textile park will be designed and worker hostels, as well as Industrial Area. an issue that many of us have been familiar with ever since we were children watching movies such as 101 Dalmatians, and yet Raymond Textiles eyes 8% growth in suiting business most of us don’t notice how often we use aymond Textiles is looking products made out of Rto achieve a growth rate leather every day. A of 7-8 per cent in its suiting new ‘vegan-leather’ business over the next fiscal has been designed by year with an aim to make a Ananas Anam, created turnover of US $ 354 million from a sustainable high (Rs. 2,300 crore) in the segment. performing natural The company is continuously textile, which is made making efforts to further from plant fibre waste. Piñatex™ is located in increase its share in the Indian the Philippines from textile market. In this direction, one year for the company. to-premium range. Established where they are creating it has recently launched a UV- Furthermore, Raymond has in the year 1925, Raymond Group leather out of pineapple protected Techno smart brand of unveiled four new sub-brands is one of India’s largest branded leaf fibres. This fabrics. Ram Bhatnagar, VP – such as Ibex, Qivuut, Beaver and fabric and fashion retailers. It is awesome new concept Head Sales & Distribution Cool Wool. At present, Raymond leading integrated producer of is going to support local (Textiles), informed a leading has around 60 per cent market suiting fabric in the world, with farmers in a whole new fashion portal that this move share in the US $ 2,769 million a capacity of producing over 31 way. Using a commonly will generate US $ 15 million (Rs. 18,000 crore) suiting segment million metres of wool & wool- found waste product (Rs. 100 crore) over the next and a 90 per cent share in the mid- blended fabrics. from pineapple farms, the products will be made without any extra need for fertilizer, water, land or pesticides. The Thandavapura on Karnataka’s list of Textile Park locations vision is to develop textiles and materials that use processes he Karnataka JSS Urban Haat, Textiles At the function, which which enhance the TGovernment, in its recently Commissioner R Raju, was organized by the well-being of the earth announced state Budget, has Department of Handlooms Ministry of Textiles, GoI, and its people through allocated US $ 46 million said, “For the development of and the Karnataka State the entire lifecycle (Rs. 300 crore) for building textile parks across the state, Cooperative Hand Weavers’ of the products. The and developing textile parks 2,600 acres of land has been Mahamandali, he said that for inspiration is the “Cradle across the state. As part of identified. In Mysuru and the benefit of the weavers, the to Cradle®” approach, this plan, the Government Chamarajanagar, where textile Government had introduced which supports has identified a 100-acre plot parks are also proposed, we textile policy from 2013-2018, ecological, intelligent at Thandavapura Industrial have identified the land. At the including a US $ 1,538 million and innovative design Area to set up a textile park. recent Invest Karnataka meet, (Rs. 10,000 crore) investment policies within today’s Speaking at the inauguration investors have come forward for a five-year period that economic environment. of the Special Handloom to invest over US $ 154 million is expected to generate Expo Samskruthi-2016 at the (Rs. 1,000 crore).” employment to 5 lakh people.

24 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 25 Apparel Online India HOME FASHION FUTURE

MEET THE HOME FURNISHING FIRMS

SURVIVINGIN REMOTE AREAS…

ack of talent, specially availability are the challenges. As These companies are merchandisers, designers and population is less and people have Lsupport services, difficulty in many employment opportunities, not in established hubs accessing raw materials, logistics labour is not easily available,” shares or even in those cities issues and no buyer visitation..., Sunil Kumar Dwivedi, CEO of which have proper are the major obstacles that the the company, which is exporting to companies operating in remote the US, Japan and France, having industrial areas, but areas face. On the other hand less capacity of producing 10,000 pieces are still able to manage overheads, comparatively cheap per month. their home furnishing land, easy access to administration, Heirloom Naga, Dimapur export business by peaceful working conditions, local (Nagaland) is perhaps one of the edge of designs/handwork, etc. best examples of a unit that enjoys their sheer grit and are the benefits for them. Panjim, the edge of local tradition and crafts, product offerings. which is a famous tourist place, is to indulge in innovative product Missing the ecosphere of also the location for Casa Amore development which makes it possible International which is the only to offer niche products. Founded by advantages that working home furnishing export unit in this Jesmina Zeling, a respected name in hubs/clusters give to a manufacturing unit, it is very difficult to survive in such outlying areas, yet the circumstance also has its own few benefits. Within limited resources, while some units are just surviving, few others are actually growing. Apparel Online identified a few such companies

and discussed with them Sunil Kumar Dwivedi, CEO, Casa Amore International, at a trade show the advantages and disadvantages of their city for the last 11 years. Offering in this industry from the North East, locations. Interestingly, good range of bedding, decorative the company has been awarded many each one had almost pillows, kitchen linen, yoga mat bags, times for product innovation. Jesmina and that too in organic material, the strongly feels that there is little similar problems but company is a winner indeed! “We advantage of being at Dimapur apart individual values. Also, have enough land and buildings in the from the Loin Loom, as the Nagas most of these units are area to get property on reasonable are expert weavers on the traditional rent, also there is easy access to loom called the Loin Loom, which based in such remote local administration and, if required, is basically a primitive back strap areas just because to the legislature also in case of tension loom that is totally dependent they belong to that any problem. Labourers work here on the weaver to use his/her expertise peacefully and I don’t need to worry to weave the fabric. “Our operational particular place. about their unrest or other related cost is little less, basic infrastructure issues, but logistics and manpower is good and we do have labour as

26 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com HOME FASHION FUTURE

HEIMTEXTIL AND AMBIENTE INDIA ’16: BACK WITH A BANG! The Indian editions of Heimtextil and Ambiente, organized by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India, are all set to return to the Capital with new collections and creative applications of textiles, home furnishings, homeware and interior décor from June 22-24. Companies like Masterkitchen, D’Décor Exports, Raymond Home, Thanor Pottery, Ceramic Home Decoratives, Welspun India, ALPS Industries, Paramount Textile Mills, etc. will display Dr. Mallamma Yalawar, Founder and CEO, Jesmina Zeling, Founder, Heirloom Naga their modern design concepts, native décor themes, Sabala Handicrafts art, colour trends and fresh business ideas at the shows. Moreover, a state pavilion from Uttar Pradesh, known for its rich heritage of textiles and there are many trained people who Moving from Karnataka to Andhra crafts, will bring forth the unique products to the are leaving their traditional work Pradesh, Shiva Kumar Hemdev, show through live demos by local artisans. for lack of engagement. So I see Owner, Sri Devi Exports, full scope for further development Rajahmundry (150 kms. from Adding more flavour to the events, a major highlight of the industry in this area,” says Vijayawada), is also the only of previous edition of the fairs – ‘Experience Zone’ Jesmina. The company, which company in Rajahmundry city in the Interior Lifestyle Awards (ILA) – will once achieved good growth in the last in the trade and he claims not to again honour the innovative ideas of the designers few years, is proud to partner be having any single advantage. in the home segment. Additionally, Heimtextil India with a large group of highly skilled “Nothing is cheap here and due will be hosting expert discussions on trends in the women weavers, exporting to the to lack of labour contractors, we furnishings and textile sector which will benefit US, EU and Japan. are forced to keep all workers on exhibitors, manufacturers and home fashion buyers Similarly, another lady payroll which adds to the cost,” visiting the fair. As Heimtextil and Ambiente India entrepreneur Dr. Mallamma says Shiva. Exporting one lakh attract serious retailers, trade buyers and design Yalawar, Founder and CEO, pieces per month to countries like experts with its well-timed pre-festive schedule, the Sabala Handicrafts, Bijapur US, Europe, Japan and Australia, upcoming editions will also become an ‘ordering (Karnataka) which is 360 kms. Shiva doesn’t see any further venue’ for winter and festive collections this season. from Hyderabad, is exporting scope to expand his business. The variety of home furnishing products company manufactures bedding, INDO COUNT INDUSTRIES to Europe and Canada. She too is of curtains, cushions and accessories. LAUNCHES THREE NEW BRANDS the opinion that there is no major Agra, the leather city, too has advantage in working in remote 5-7 firms which are doing home Indo Count Industries, a manufacturer of home areas and is in fact managing furnishing (soft goods) but even textile, has launched three new home textile transportation from the nearby they don’t see any benefit, though brands – Boutique Living, Revival and The Pure villages from where she gets the there is easy approach to local Collection – for the US market, according to a job done, and of course is a big administration and scope for company filing with the BSE. The three brands challenge. “I started this work as further expansion. One of the are designed keeping different target consumers an NGO and support local people by companies, Balaji Overseas is in mind. Boutique Living is targeted at successful offering them employment. But due planning to start its operation professionals who travel frequently. Revival is to legal aspects I turned it into a in Panipat as Ashish Agarwal, targeted at college graduates or professionals private company; and still we follow Director of the company told, “We who look for classic detailing with a modern the concept of support, thus giving made our base here with sheer hard outlook. The Pure Collection is for the health and us an edge with few buyers who work of 10 years but now without environment-conscious consumer. believe in fair trade and in turn moving to a hub it is very difficult The collections under Boutique Living include place orders with us. to achieve good growth.” Similar is Water’s Edge, Seville, Notting Hill, Ella and Del Ray, Working with workers based in the condition in Hathras, as it too while those under Revival include Verona, Salford, villages is also a difficult task has some units in the segment, but Savannah and Florence. The collections under as they have an entire different all are struggling due to the above The Pure Collection include Leiden, Pure Basics, culture, and work doesn’t seem mentioned reasons. Few places in Granada and Tanglewood. “The above mentioned to be their priority,” shares Nadia (115 kms. from Kolkata), new brands will also be launched subsequently in Dr. Mallamma. The company has have small-level firms which are other markets,” the filing said. expertise in creating lingerie bags into export but are enjoying the which is a niche product. benefits of handwork of Bengal.

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Apparel Online India

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FALL ’16 ROUND-UP

Runways peeping into the past for the future Fall ’16 collections represented everything that is maximalist in nature – the clothes, the accessories and the styling. Things started off slow in New York, but escalated quickly with whirlwind shows in Paris. The decade known for exaggeration – the 1980s – was all over the runways, the sleeves were billowy and bell-shaped, the coats were bigger and the prints were more gigantic too. High-shine was the order of the day where fabric and details were concerned, which brought lurex, sequin, PVC and velvet back in fashion. Fur patchwork and trimmings continued their stronghold, as did artsy prints that clashed with one another. The palette swung between London’s all-black attire and Milan’s modern vibrancy that meant, the brighter, the better. Trend analysts at FFT have curated a list of five themes that successfully sum up the fall ’16 shows…

Menswear fabrics have been all in rage since two years now and androgynous dressing has been on the radar too; so it comes as no surprise that the two are merged this season. The new look borrowed from the men is boxy in shape and surprisingly easy-going, take cue from Balenciaga and 3.1 Phillip Lim for a ’50s suit where the former went a double-breasted blazer boasting of shoulder pants with cigarette pants, and the latter used the plaid print on the pants while keeping the top simpler. Max Mara, in opposition, revealed a loose wide- legged pant suit in bold stripes, Gucci’s version involved a roomy overcoat in darker shades, and Y/Project improvised on the customary silhouettes by using the menswear fabric on a chic corset with cut-outs. 3.1 Phillip Lim Balenciaga Y/Project Gucci

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Fashion as an industry loves mixing the opulent with the basic, constantly juxtaposing the two worlds. Thus, the theme of luxury streetwear arose, which, for fall, shows no signs of fading with an amped use of track pants, hoodies, sporty stripes and more. Tory Burch went for an all-white look that involved languid track pants with red stripes on the side, Tim Coppens put on a red and white striped knit on an all-leather street look, and DKNY mixed sporty silhouettes with leather ones too by presenting a mesh crop top, leather jacket and black track pants on the runway. A few designers like Alexander Wang and Chloe opted for a head-to-toe street biker look with leather overcoats, biker jackets and leather pants. Tory Burch Tory Tim Coppens DKNY Chloe

If you thought lavishness and opulence were missing from the previous seasons, you won’t now anymore. Luxurious yet substantial upholstery-inspired styles were seen everywhere on the designer runways – from London to Paris these lush brocades made for the season’s most interesting evening looks. Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana went for metallic brocades for their respective collections – the former presented a pleated skirt with a boxy top in olive and silver threading; whereas, the latter went for all- gold with a black surface for their coats. Christian Dior too opted for a coat but in a soft pink and red shade that had bold patterns. Pant suits were popular on the runway as Gucci cropped version in gold and red made quite a stir, as did Miu Miu’s wide-legged ensemble that represented florals in lavender, teal and deep maroon. Dolce & Gabbana Burberry Christian Dior Miu Miu

30 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com DIRECTIONS BY

Colossal furs were introduced to the fall collections in every city where ‘the bigger, the better’, was the way to go but vintage- inspired shearlings continued their cozy reign since they are more manageable and a must-have for every street style star, as well as, the regular fashion enthusiasts. Balenciaga added fur trimmings to his brown leather jackets that were styled on top of evening wear dresses, the Yeezy collection, too, mixed fur on his rugged leather jackets with fabulous high-necks. Tory Burch’s fur trimmed coats had a positively ’70s vibe to them with the long white fur on the front and sleeves; Carven went all-out with the trimmings on his coats as Maison Margiela presented a more futuristic look for his fur trimmed cape coat. Maison Margiela Tory Burch Balenciaga Carven

Evening dresses just got darker and extra dramatic with looks inspired from the Elizabethans, Victorians and more. Marc Jacobs’ collection is the perfect example of this theme since, for the first time, he went ahead with a collection that was truly meant for gothic princesses – the gowns were full-skirted, there was massive feather detailing everywhere, the make-up was smudged and everything on his runway was black. Fendi mixed luxe velvet panelling on his chiffon dresses with long ruffled necklines in deep autumnal shades, and Erdem went for a floral cape on a sheer panelled dress with lace detailing on the neck. Gucci turned back the clock to the 1920s with their long bubble dresses that boasted of billowing sleeves in satin and Leowe mixed Victorian high-necked tops with black corset dresses with skewed hemlines for extra effect. Gucci Erdem Leowe Fendi

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 31 FASHIONBUSINESS

SCHOOLGIRL JUMPERS PUSHING ‘BACK TO SCHOOL’ TREND INTO FOREFRONT...

imple, no-nonsense and ribbed, bodycon styles or mid-length Seffortlessly flattering, the jumpers with added chic points. Not jumper dress is making a serious only fall but spring sees the return of comeback for fall 2016. The return the knitted jumper as a wardrobe staple of this schoolgirl uniform dress as well. There is no room for subtle; chimes in perfectly with the current this season it’s all about the statement obsession for retro shapes. As a knit. Carrying over from winter is the classic and iconic piece in fashion, motif jumper, with same flower prints, the jumper provides a perfect space invader patterns and contrasting amalgamation of modern layering colour panels. Mukesh Kumar, Owner, and minimalistic flair. “Jumpers” Mahesh Exports, who is dealing with a classic silhouette with varied various wholesalers in Europe, talked interpretations have evolved over enthusiastically about the current trend the time from one style to another in jumper dresses. “Printed varieties becoming more of a basic need in in jerseys are in demand, especially a woman’s wardrobe, as it adorns in miniature florals. Other than that, every body type and size, with plane jumpers, sweater dresses, apron endless possibilities of innovation. dresses in shades of lime, peach, sky With the silhouette being one of the blue, ruby red and grass green are also most commonly produced items by getting picked up in large numbers,” Indian manufacturers and exporters, he shares. jumpers are all set to become the Roll neck jumper, turtleneck jumper, staple in 2016-17 collections… polo neck jumpers are another A jumper in the simplest possible jumper style which are getting very definition is a sleeveless, collarless popular. This trend is both functional dress intended to be worn over a blouse, and fashionable and may suggest a shirt or sweater. Also referred to as a consumer shift, placing more value pinafore dress in some instances, the towards garment utility in addition to jumper sometimes has an open back aesthetics. Their ubiquity has turned and is worn as an apron. The apron jumpers into mainstay. But there are dress may also be viewed as a special a few new twists: a slight tailoring at case of the jumper. If the design of the the waist for a more flattering graze, dress is directly inspired by an apron while asymmetry turns the bodice (having a bib in front and ties in the into a playful style. An exporter of back, for example), the garment is readymade garments, Dolly Sidhwani, typically described as an apron dress. Owner, Nobel Faith Clothing, thinks No wardrobe is complete without a that refined fabrics, strategic draping, selection of trans-seasonal jumper and added embellishments transform dresses and as the exporters work jumpers into alternatives for the on overlapping seasons, all the latest evening-like an elegant, artier version knitted styles seems to be on offer for of the pantsuit. the buyers. This season, jumper dresses Prada, Fendi and Antonio Marras, come in all shapes and sizes. Be it this all went to the head of the class with season’s ’90s mood providing many schoolgirl-chic looks on the recently

32 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com FASHIONBUSINESS

Roll neck jumpers, turtleneck jumpers, polo neck jumpers are another jumpers style which are getting very popular. This trend is both functional and fashionable and may suggest a consumer shift, placing more value towards garment utility in addition to aesthetics. Their ubiquity has turned jumpers into mainstays. But there are a few new twists: a slight tailoring at the waist for a more flattering graze, while asymmetry turns the bodice into a playful style.

Jaison Wu concluded fall 2016 runways. Fendi complete with flirtatious spirit and veered closer to the schoolmarm sophisticated appeal. side of things with a high-necked, The basic reason why jumper is back ruffled blouse with jumper. Antonio this season is their capability of being Marras showed fresh, innocent produced for petite, larger sizes looks like a striped cardigan-pleated and also plus sized women. This is jumper combo, while Miuccia Prada practically one of the only silhouettes interpreted “coed” in her typical which is as basic as a T-shirt or ’70s-influenced style, with windowpane a trouser and can still look like a checks and quirky kilts. Though not magnificent couture piece. falling under the subhead of being Each x Other an “innovative new trend”, jumpers Discussing further, Darshika Sharma, are increasingly becoming the most Assistant Designer, Bharatiya demanded item for the coming fall. International Ltd. said, “Versatility A. Kochhar, Director, Mercury Knits, is another reason why jumpers keep discussing about the jumpers said, coming back. Jumper dresses are “We are also making form fitting great to be worn all the year round. cardigans in wool and fleece, but as From warm summer weather to chilly per our observations in retail stores winter season; they never fail to create and street markets, there is a trend sophisticated winning looks.” for sweater dresses and jumpers, but Different fabrics have also made this this season we are making the similar versatile apparel ‘round the year’ Rochas styles in much lighter weights. We are garment. Be it in sheer, soft fabrics, also developing jumpers in light weight voile and cotton in summers, or in check fabric ending with tassels.” heavy woolly fabrics for winters, The low maintenance jumper appeared jumpers are shining bright like never at ‘Each x Other’ with chic elegant before this year. Jil Sander Navy had a sensibility where the version was good jumping-off point this season with preppy chic with just the right amount the jumper. The collection restocked of modesty “borrowed from grandma”. with back-to-basics pieces, a huge grey “Childhood Saturdays” was among a turtleneck was styled with a knit cream handful of reflections stitched tattoo- dress that had its sleeves fastened at like on to necks and cuffs of second- the waist, transforming it into a DIY skin mesh layers. Bringing in the skirt. The latest Suno outing was an Each x Other perfect schoolgirl look, apron dresses unexpectedly decorous affair. High neck were complete with leather and vinyl blouses with contrasting plaid jumper patchwork, upholstery-esque suiting dresses felt functional and up-to-date. and envision contemporary beatniks. Whereas, Tomas Maier, sent out the Meanwhile, Jason Wu’s version of the important message of texture, pattern, jumper was classic with windowpane and an emphasis on comfort, with his checks, one of the biggest trends straight cut tweed jumper dresses. from fall. It started right with the There were fuzzy plaid and houndstooth first look, a checked suit, going on jacquard jumper dresses and checked Tomas Maier till the plaid checked jumper in blue sweaters worn with foil-printed kilts.

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 33 FASHIONRESOURCE

YSL appoints Valentino might take over Balmain Anthony Vaccarello as Valentino is rumoured Rousteing’s youth and crowd of Creative Head to be buying Balmain, famous fans, who he christened according to reports in Les the “Balmain army” – teamed Anthony Vaccarello Echos which states that the with an H&M collaboration has been named French luxury label has in 2015 that brought global the Creative Director offered ¤ 500 million for the awareness – have attributed at Yves Saint Laurent much-talked-about brand, to a newfound interest in the with immediate effect, helmed by Olivier Rousteing. storied French house, founded Balmain’s profile has risen by Pierre Balmain in 1946. Les succeeding Hedi Slimane exponentially over the past Echos reports that Bucéphale at the French fashion five years since Rousteing took Finance, a French investment house. Vaccarello the helm from former creative bank, was given a sale mandate will present his first director Christophe Decarnin. by the family with the view that collection for the brand in The first designer to reach a the house should be sold for October for spring/ million followers on Instagram, between € 300 and € 400 million. summer 2017. He has left his role as Creative Director at Versus Versace, paving the way Farfetch and Manolo Blahnik for his appointment at launch website the Kering-owned YSL. Farfetch has partnered business, a new arm of the “I am very proud to with the iconic footwear brand that was set up late welcome such a vivid brand Manolo Blahnik to last year to give the e-tailer and young force among launch its first e-commerce the capacity to support today’s creative fashion platform, which will sell the mono-brand online platforms. FINE talents to Yves Saint brand’s entire mens and “Customers shop in mono- EMBROIDERY Laurent,” François-Henri womens wear collections as brand stores as well as multi- Pinault, Chairman and of today. The collaboration brand stores,” said Farfetch Embroidery might not CEO of Kering, said in is the first online destination Founder and Owner Jose be a fresh trend on a statement. “Mr. Saint to be created by Farfetch’s Neves. “It’s a bit like in the real the runways but this Laurent is a legendary new Farfetch Black and White world. The type of experience season witnessed a lot figure for his creativity, is different, but both of intricate and rich style and audacity,” said are complementary,” embroidery on outerwear Vaccarello as news of his he added. The move garments that stood appointment broke. “I am is the latest in a out. The beauty was in extremely grateful for the string of expansion the details at Milan and opportunity to contribute announcements from the Paris, with meticulously to the history of this brand, which acquired embroidered pieces extraordinary house.” Browns Fashion last that deserved second As to whether he will year, with more mono- looks. Roberto Cavalli’s continue his eponymous brand platforms set to opulent looks involved launch later this year. long suede coats that line, it is not known yet. had a jungle theme with monkeys embroidered COLOUR STORY A/W 2016-17 by FASHION FORWARD TRENDS on them, Etro’s fur trimmed outerwear had Chinese florals that PANTONE 18-1652 TPX looked beautiful on the puff jackets and Fausto Puglisi mixed sequin with PANTONE 12-0826 TPX his abstract patterned biker jackets. It was knitwear embroidery PANTONE 16-0953 TPX for Dsquared2 who presented heavy woollen coatdresses and Alberta Ferretti stuck to what she PANTONE 13-4308 TPX knows best, pretty floral embroidery running down sheer dresses. PANTONE 18-3921 TPX

34 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com FASHIONRESOURCE

Roberto Cavalli Tuxedo positive about collection by growth Racil launched

Most brands might shy The brand, Racil, has away from exposing had a transformative their growth numbers, 12 months – and it all started especially when they aren’t with the humble tuxedo, looking great, but Roberto the founder and designer Cavalli’s CEO, Renato Racil Chalhoub has built Semerari isn’t one of them. her entire label around the “We don’t expect 2016 to be tailored staple and, like a brilliant, it will be similar to lot of fashion designers, the 2015,” said Semerari. “The idea came to her when she first half will be difficult, couldn’t find what she was but we will see signs of looking for. “It was mostly a improvement in the second want of my own,” Chalhoub half. We are investing in the told us. “I was looking for medium-term.” Unfazed by the perfect tuxedo to suit the calculus, he is focusing my lifestyle, one that was on the brand’s long-term chic, well cut and also that business strategy, which had a nonchalant air about began last year with a “style it. I really wanted a tuxedo and generational change” that I could wear all the when it appointed former time, that didn’t look too Emilio Pucci Creative Director stiff. I thought there must Peter Dundas to replace the be an entire market of brand’s eponymous founder women looking for this too, – something he is equally so I decided to make that the plain-speaking about. “It was core of my brand.” To that an important message, aiming end Chalhoub has designed for a younger customer and a collection to complement more ready-to-wear for the the multi-coloured Le day, but the response was Smoking-inspired jackets. varied. February’s show was Silk slip dresses, cotton much better. We’ve received a shirts and cigarette trousers positive response from press can be teamed with Stan and clients alike,” he said. Smiths by day, as easily as they can a killer pair of stilettos at night – but never without the tuxedo jacket of course.

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 35 VALUEADDITION

Metal Details for S/S ’17 Collections! After settling fall 2016 collections, it is that time of the year when exporters and designers are now working on S/S ’17 collection sampling. Giving a hint in many fall styles, metal details as trims are all set to make their way into the summer designs as well. Be it covering the entire surface area of a jacket or creating a mesh-like structure over the edge, metal details were, are and will remain the most important part of the coming season’s collections, it seems. Moving ahead from the simple ribbons, laces, cords, buttons and zippers from last year, the summer of 2017 will bring with it 5 value-added metal details which will impress fashion enthusiasts in the upcoming seasons…

n an unexpected twist, silver RIVETS EYELETS details were placed on pieces I Normally seen as tiny holes to by both edgy and demure brands. Rivets are an integral part of The trend was evident in Louis garment designing. Mostly used in enclose buttons, eyelets have Vuitton’s, Ellery’s and many other bomber and biker leather jackets, come a long way. Eyelet fabric ace designers’ fall 2016 collections. the use of silver, gold, brass is made up of carefully stitched Stand-out looks include shiny metallic buttons in various shapes holes to form a lace or floral rings on sweaters, belted metallic to give a designer edge are patterns. The look mimics that of ornaments, metallic eyelets and most popular. Pleated leather is the lace aesthetic, but is sturdy grommets, a few of the versions adorned with rivets in the in-fold, and strong in comparison to metallic details that were seen. so that the design is only partially the delicate lace. The results Metallic buttons are being used visible. Moving ahead from the were mostly seen on garments not only on plackets of a shirt but military-inspired fashion, the by Alexander Wang, Suno, Marc on dresses and gowns to create trend of metallic rivets is also Jacobs and Cushnie et Ochs in an assorted texture. Grommets, getting popular. Instead of using the fall 2016 collections. Kayne’s reinforced eyelets and rivets are a regular button, use of metal collection felt especially in garnished all over in chaotic and coated buttons are really in. tune with her laid-back SoCal scattered arrangements. Metal was Alexander Wang showcased surroundings complete with beaten, moulded and manoeuvred, sweaters with contrasting stripes, striped linen trousers and eyelet to create decorative elements, which were brought together blouses, whereas, Suno compiled treated with various metal finishes with help of a series of assorted the folk elements of naive floral to emerge as a big trend left to be rivets. On the other hand, there prints and embroideries and cotton further explored. While grommets was a definite sense of rigor in eyelet together to complete the are an important trim and detail the collection by Co, where details embellishments. for S/S 2017, evolving from fall like punctuating covered buttons Think of eyelets as lace 2.0 2016, the metal eyelet makes a were seen on tailored silks because while eyelet fabric is strong statement as a design detail hinting at prim Victoriana style. just as elegant, it’s also twice as or as a functional element in a Vinod Mongia, Director, Manya durable; so there’s no need to variety of silhouettes, creating an Creations avers, “We are doing be worried about runs or tears. edgy, youthful vibe on the catwalk. a lot of value additions and metal Goonjan Kumar, Designer, Based on indications from across details are of prime importance. JJ Expo Impo, discussing the globe, the following are the top Currently riveting, embossed about eyelets said, “Whether big 5 metal details which will make it metal patching, etc. are very much and bold eyelets or small and big in the S/S 2017 collections: in demand.” subtle, eyelets in all varieties

36 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com VALUEADDITION

Alexander Wang Alexander Wang Prada Michael Kors Ji Oh

are getting popular. Eyelets are METAL RINGS hoop-shaped silver jewellery not to be confused with their of varying sizes that pierced cousin, the grommet, which has a Put together in a line, to join at numerous garments. In some larger flange diameter in relation the ends and create a peek-a-boo cases, the silver hoops served to to the hole size than an eyelet effect, metal rings were seen in pinch the coat’s volume, gathering does, the larger the flange, the varied applications on the fall Grommets, the material up into sharp pleats. stronger the grip.” 2016 runways. Niraj Pugalia, reinforced CEO, Silver Apparels said, “We eyelets and CHAIN ENCLOSURES mostly do heavily embellished METAL rivets are ORNAMENTS garments and this time the looks Metal chains get a feminine revamp sum up wool melton peacoat, garnished all and are used as enclosures in Metal was heated and creamy silk georgette blouses, over in chaotic styles. Light metal chains are manoeuvred into more feminine charcoal cashmere pullovers and and scattered hooped with metal rectangular elements to bring out the jacquard dresses, all having one arrangements. fasteners to give the look of body thing in common, metal rings rocker chic or grunge look. Metal was chains on silhouettes. Boiled Feminine elements like the roses, attached as value additions.” Fall wool/cotton mix denim was the butterflies, other flowers, buds also found designers like Michael beaten, template fabric for Damir Doma’s and leaves, etc. are formed using Kors embracing peter pan-collar moulded and long dresses with quilted obi-belt lines and sheets of metals to dolly-bird dresses with metal rings manoeuvred, detailing at the arm and strapping create a solid look with a touch of attached on the placket area and to create at the waistline. The designer cable-knit sweaters with a line of softness. Prada presented a belt, decorative played a lot of masculine-feminine which was no less a firm fashion metal rings hanging on the side ping-pong here, he fastened pockets statement. The belt was decorated giving the fringe effect. elements, and little chains of round metal with metal roses complete with Dion Lee induced an interesting treated with beads to the clothes with gleaming metal rivets and fasteners. The concept in his collection by various metal metal clips, and lined his gray and designer explored corsetry details; utilising the key idea to make finishes to oat-flecked black boiled wool rib only he shifted the perspective, clothes appear backlit; hence the emerge as a knits with more lines of contrasting cinching the hip area rather motifs of metal perforation and metal. Anima Singh, Assistant than the waist. Mostly the metal crystal dappled onto material or big trend left Designer, Citrine Design details are seen on the length of bonded into it. The most intriguing to be further Studio informed, “For our S/S ’17 the entire garment, but here the of Lee’s ideas, however, was his explored. collection, we have incorporated ornamentation was mostly seen play with hardware. He probed small chain bits on our blouses on the waist accessories segment, tension between functional detail and tunics, mostly embellishing the shoulders and cuffs. and ornamental detail, by creating shoulder and neck area.”

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 37 INDUSTRYWIRE

Vanduta Khurana WhatsApp becoming and her N2-X, a ‘tool’ for expression ‘solution tool’ for professionals

he March 16-31, 2016 issue of Apparel Online had a cover t’s already 2 o’clock in this group. They include story about women empowerment in the Indian apparel the night, but several GMs, production managers, Tindustry, and it is heartening to know that more and Ipeople are still awake and consultant technicians more women are taking on leadership roles. Recently, Vanduta chatting on WhatsApp. Yet, and few fresh industry Khurana, President of Delhi-based Daks India, which their conversation doesn’t entrants but mostly we currently employs a workforce of 2,000 and produces 10 lakh have the tone of light-hearted have IE professionals, textile products annually, including apparel and home textiles, banter or chit-chat, as they working at senior levels. In was invited as a keynote speaker at the World Communication are industrial engineers of the past few months, more Forum, Davos, making the community very proud. Addressing Delhi-NCR interacting on a than 100 professionals the forum on the subject ‘Social Media Offline’, she introduced group chat, titled ‘Industrial have succeeded in getting N2-X, the company’s brand and constructed as a ‘tool’ for Engineer Group-NCR’. Their a job through this group, expression. The product in fact is a ‘bag’, where the canvas is ‘chat’ revolves around various since all senior level the ‘media’ and the exchangeable badges, or as the company issues concerning the industry, professionals keep sharing calls them ‘stamps’ is the content. The product could have so while some are discussing their requirements on this. several manifestations… It could be a simple school bag, bow hanger systems, a few While not an official one, this & arrow case, an ipad, smartphones cover, etc. “The product is production professionals are group is very serious. So, the world’s first mobile reconfigurable surface, which can take looking for jobs and some are professionals here are quite the shape of whatever the user wants it to be. It is already being looking for job-workers… open and feel comfortable to carried by Ali Virgin Stores in Nowadays, most garment share information and ask for Middle East & UAE, and will factories and department them,” informed the Group’s now start selling through one of professionals are on one Admin Babul Singh, who is the biggest companies in USA,” WhatsApp group or the other, also an industrial engineer. informs Vanduta. using it officially. They find it He also shared that adding Sharing her happiness and comfortable to use; it offers new people to this group experience of this achievement an easy, smooth, seamless is difficult, since there is with AO, she informed, “Our and transparent platform a membership limit on lives are an expression of for conversation among WhatsApp groups, though ‘who we are’…, and there is professionals and colleagues, everyday new people want a need to express oneself as which is far more interactive to join. Be it any difficult ‘very human’. Technology, compared to emails. There operation or a new style, art, science, colour media are many such groups across most members of this group and language have made the industry and most of them respect the privacy of each communication easier, but are just for fun or simply other and enjoy the advantage expressions still remains a don’t have a firm objective. of networking and sharing challenge; in fact, more so now Meanwhile, there are some knowledge, information than ever before… I am part of very serious groups like the Vanduta Khurana, President of Delhi-based and experience. “Though it Daks India displaying her ‘novel’ bag the world of textiles/fashion for ‘Industrial Engineer Group- requires a lot of time and the last 21 years. Along the way NCR’, which acts as a trouble- energy to manage such a I realized that we were not manufacturing garments, but ‘tools shooter for many issues faced group, it is satisfying to see of expression’, even if passive. With our bag, you could be a by technical professionals. professionals getting together ‘conformist’ or a ‘rebel’. You could be a ‘monk’ in carrying them “We have professionals from to find solutions to different or ‘a pleasure seeker’. Perhaps, a lady carrying a well-made more than 50 factories in issues,” Babul concluded. bag, or a boy wearing a well-stitched shirt – both want to subtly convey that they appreciate ‘quality’ and are ready to work hard for it. We needed to extend this forward… We needed now to create a more vibrant, flexible, evolutionary, artistic pictorial space…, a canvas. People needed to talk to each other and not just go ‘texting’ on their smart phones.” Sharing the idea behind the product Vanduta informed that she, along with Sean Christian, a friend and a brilliant scientist too, and her husband Anil Khurana, together brain- stormed and created this canvas – a ‘platform’ on which one could ‘express’ themselves. Dhruv, her son, who studies at Tufts University, Boston, knows how to be one with technology and social media. So he helped base the brand around the social media concept, and made it mobile reconfigurable and personalized. Babul Singh, Group Admin, Industrial Engineer Group-NCR

38 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDUSTRYLIVE

Skill development Delhi budget camp for Kashmiri offers lower migrant women VAT on ‘costly’ garments pparel, Made-Ups & AHome Furnishing Sector Skill Council has started training and certifying oming as a relief to high-end Kashmiri migrant women Cgarment labels, the Delhi at the Jagati camp, Jammu. state budget has reduced VAT The training camp, which (Value Added Tax) from 12 to was inaugurated by the 5 per cent. These apply to all CEO of the Skill Council garments having a price tag Faced with stiff opposition readymade garments at the rate Dr. Roopak Vasishtha on higher than Rs. 5,000. In 2010-11, from the trading community, of 5 per cent. Our Government is March 25, aims to “develop the then State Government had the Delhi Government withdrew fully committed to reducing tax skills repository for apparel increased the VAT on the same 5 per cent VAT on shoes priced arbitrage and will attempt to keep value chain, National from 5 per cent to 12.5 per cent. below Rs. 500 and all kinds of a uniform rate with neighbouring Occupational Standards in The most recent move will reduce fabric just after one day of its states,” the minister said. the industry, establish well- the per garment prices by almost announcement in budget. Delhi- structured sector-specific Meanwhile, Kanwal Kumar Rs. 1,000, potentially helping in based textile traders and the Labour Market Information Balli, President, Association increasing their demand. In the industry at-large had strongly System as well as improvise of Wholesale Readymade 2016-17 budget, presented by opposed to the 5 per cent VAT, the training delivery value Garments Dealers, Delhi, Delhi’s Deputy Chief Minister demanding that Government chain, including third- and Finance Minister Manish take back this step. “At present, representing mainly the Gandhi party assessments and Sisodia, also announced that all readymade garments up to Nagar Market told, “The VAT certifications”. The council kinds of school bags will also be Rs. 5,000 are taxed at 5 per cent; reduction on readymade with an ambitious target covered under VAT, with the rate those above Rs. 5,000 are taxed at garments is not going to help of certifying more than of 5 per cent. Earlier, bags priced 12.5 per cent. In the neighbouring us as Gandhi Nagar and allied 2 million persons in the higher than Rs. 300 were covered states (UP and Haryana), all areas produce garments for the apparel sector’s Skilling under VAT at 12.5 per cent of the readymade garments are taxed at mass market. So we don’t have Courses by 2022. The base cost. No new taxes have 5 per cent. I propose to rationalize much hope neither from the Council aims to achieve this been included in the budget. the tax rate by taxing all Government not from the budget.” through the Pradhan Mantri Kaushal Vikas Yojana (PMKVY), under which the youth of the country will be long-term courses (AVI) Quality Checker, Production, offered training, even while at their Gurgaon Campus. Sampling & Quality Control providing certification for ATDC ‘Campus Out of 80 candidates from Departments & Fashion the existing workforce in the Placement Drive’ 12 different centres of Design Departments, in apparel sector. signs up 67 skilled ATDC, who participated in companies and apparel youth the recruitment process, houses like Myntra.com; The training and 67 skilled youths have RMX Joss; Modelama certification of Kashmiri been successfully hired by Exports Ltd.; Pyoginam; migrants at Jammu’s various apparel companies Paramount Products; SABS Jagati camp falls under pparel Training and Design at the placement drive, Exports; Chelsea Mills; Orient the programme, known ACentre (ATDC) Gurgaon, organized by the NHO Craft, etc. as Recognition of Prior India recently organized a 10 placement cell of ATDC. Learning (RPL), which was One of the recruiters, day-long ‘Campus Placement Students were selected for formulated to assess and Myntra.com, which hired Drive’ for its students of designations like Assistant certify existing manpower 10 students in Quality of the apparel factories and Department, also appeared those having prior knowledge satisfied with the process. by the Council. The inaugural Sharing the experience of function was attended by recruitment at ATDC, Vivek Moti Kaul, Vice President Singh, HR of the company of the J&K State BJP, who said, “It was again a great in his address speech, lauded experience to hire these the efforts of the Prime ‘trained’ resources. We have Minister in bringing the been hiring from last two years Government to the masses from your different training and thanking the authorities campuses, and the quality concerned in organising such of candidates we have got is a programme for the women amazing. We are hoping to hire of the camp. One of the candidates appearing for the interview many more in the future too.”

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 39 INDUSTRYLIVE

Gangwar TEA welcomes inaugurates Repo Rate Apparel and reduction Garment Making n a strategic move Centre in IDr. Raghuram Nagaland Rajan, RBI Governor has announced the first Bi-monthly Monetary nion Textiles Minister Policy Statement for the U(I/C) Santosh Kumar year 2016-17 and slashed Gangwar recently inaugurated the Policy Repo Rate by the Apparel and Garment Making Union Textiles Minister (I/C) Santosh Kumar Gangwar at the inauguration of the Apparel and Garment 25 basis points from 6.75 Centre in Dimapur, Nagaland. Making Centre. The Chief Minister of Nagaland, T.R. Zeliang and other dignitaries are also seen per cent to 6.5 per cent. Appreciating the support from Furthermore, Marginal Cost the Nagaland Government, he of Funds based Lending said that the Centre belongs Gangwar also laid the plantation to finished product Rate (MCLR) has also been to the people of this state. foundation stone for Muga P3 to marketing. The projects are revised. MCLR is the new On the occasion, the Minister Basic Seed Station Kobulong, expected to help about 5,000 ‘benchmark lending rate’ at mentioned the core objectives of Mokokchung and launched the farmers engaged in plantation which banks will now lend this project – which is to develop newly approved Integrated Eri of silk and would increase the to new borrowers. Till 31st entrepreneurship in apparel Silk Development Project, under overall production of quality March 2016, banks used the manufacturing among the local North Eastern Region Textile silk by three times through base rate as the benchmark youth and to provide employment Promotion Scheme (NERTPS), various interventions. Hailing rate to lend. MCLR is to the people locally at these for women empowerment the inauguration of the three built on four components centres. He said that the apparel and sustainable livelihood in projects, T. R. Zeliang, Chief – Marginal cost of funds, centres is a small yet significant Kohima. He pointed out that Minister of Nagaland said Negative carry on account step in the direction of increasing these projects will support that these developments of Cash Reserve Ratio export share of apparel and silk production in all three would help in skilling (CRR), Operating costs and garments in overall export of varieties of silk, i.e. Eri, Naga youths in becoming Tenor premium. textiles and clothing. Muga and Mulberry, from professional entrepreneurs. Dr. A. Sakthivel, President of TEA (Tirupur Exporters’ Association), who is glad with the reduction in Commerce & Repo Rate, has pointed Industry Minister out that as mentioned in the Monetary Policy takes active the introduction of the stance over Marginal Cost of Funds exporters’ based Lending Rate concerns (MCLR) should improve transmission and magnify iming to review the Commerce & Industry Minister Nirmala Sitharaman also had a Board of Trade (BoT) meeting in which the effects of the current current trend of exports issues like incentives for small exporters, revival for SEZs, categorizing the entire export credit given policy rate cut which is A by all lenders separately under priority sector lending without riders and relaxing norms for the Export from India and take stock paramount importance Import Bank of India were highlighted of issues faced by the for the exporting exporters, Commerce & units to enhance their Industry Minister Nirmala competitiveness in the to exporters were some of as well as some of the global Sitharaman held a meeting subdued world trade. the issues discussed at the factors, there was a feeling with the Chairpersons of meeting. The councils also that exports would rise. He has also welcomed the Export Promotion Councils cited delay in environmental The Minister assured that RBI’s stance in monitoring (EPCs). 14 EPCs took part clearances as a hurdle in issues relating to Ministry the developments closely to in this meeting, which was setting up manufacturing of External Affairs and contain any unanticipated the second such meeting units. The ministry claimed Department of Revenue would forex market volatility, and with the Councils; the first that it was general consensus be taken up by the Department added that sudden higher one was held in February that in terms of volume, most of Commerce. It was also fluctuations will put the 2016. Promotion of Brand commodities have shown noted that the Department of exporting units, particularly India on a consistent basis, resilience and maintained Commerce has to work under SME exporting units, into increase in MEIS incentives, the levels achieved in the certain limitations of funds a ‘quagmire’ position if the more incentives for project previous fiscal 2014-15. and policy, but at the same RBI is not intervening on exports and need for Indian However, keeping in view the time, it was assured that full immediate basis. missions to be mobilised to various, and recent initiatives cooperation would be provided provide necessary support taken up by the Government to the EPCs.

40 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDUSTRYLIVE

the country’s garment exports. Last year, US imported apparel ITF concerned worth US $ 82 billion, of which over impact of India supplied about US $ 3.7 TPP on Indian billion, accounting for 21.5% textile industry of the country’s total apparel exports, down from 23% in 2014. If duty turns disadvantageous for India’s apparel exports, he Indian Texpreneurs the share is likely to fall Federation (ITF) has T substantially, he added. approached the Union Government, expressing concern Damodharan said that Yarn over the serious implications Forward Rule (YFR) has been that the Trans-Pacific Trade made mandatory to source yarn, Partnership (TPP) would have on fabrics and other inputs used the textile and garments sector. in making clothes from TPP They also urged the Government partner countries only to avail to take a closer look at the duty preference. This rule will induce garment manufacturers situation, exuding fears that this in TPP countries to source their deal will seriously affect India’s raw materials from them at the garment exports to the US. cost of non-TPP countries like ITF Secretary Prabhu India, even if suppliers from that Damodharan has written a string region are not the most efficient, note to the Commerce Minister he said. According to him, India’s Nirmala Sitharaman, pointing exports of apparel, both direct out the advantageous position as well as indirect via Vietnam to that TPP places exporters TPP countries like the US, will go from its member countries down, since buyers would like to in the market, pushing non- procure from TPP-based vendors members like India to a lower only, thereby affecting India’s ground, particularly affecting fabrics and apparel exports.

strategic business alliances. CBME-India to There will be more than 25 exhibit 300 exhibitors offering kidswear. brands World-renowned brands like J L Morrison Mother Care, Me and Moms, and Smitten he 4th edition of the Child, Baby are among those that will TBaby and Maternity Expo provide a wide spectrum of India, 2016 (CBME-India) quality international products is scheduled to be held at and technology. Attraction for the Bombay Convention and this year’s edition include the Exhibition Centre in Mumbai launch of Cool Kids Fashion from April 20 to 22. Organized India – a first-of-its-kind event, by UBM India, the event is highlighting premium kids expected to witness over 100 fashion from both well-known exhibitors, showcasing more and emerging designers, brands than 300 brands to the retail and manufacturers. UBM India and trade industry. Last year, MD Yogesh Mudras says, “The the event witnessed over 80 domestic baby and childcare exhibitors, 150 brands and over market is set for a big boom, 4,000 visitors, as a result raising and global players are making the industry’s expectations for a beeline to the lucrative its fourth edition. Indian market. Through the The expo would facilitate CBME-India 2016, we aim on interactive forums like fuelling the growing awareness seminars, workshops and panel of baby and child care while discussions on topics such as successfully getting the entire e-commerce and supply chain buyer and seller community on management and help establish one platform.”

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 41 INDIACANVAS

Seminar on Warp Knitting: The technology for Hong Kong synthetic fabric innovation Fashion Week expects 1,200 pparel Export Promotion exhibitors ACouncil (AEPC) held a seminar titled, ‘Warp Knitting: The Technology for Synthetic he 23rd edition Fabric Innovation’, at its of HKTDC Hong T Knitwear Technology Mission Kong Fashion Week Centre in Tirupur. Inaugurated for Spring/Summer by V. Elangovan, Chairman (FWSS) is going to of KTM Sub Committee, take place at the Hong the seminar highlighted the Kong Convention and technological advancements in Exhibition Centre from synthetic fabric manufacturing July 4 to 7. While the from tricot and Rachel warp previous edition drew tricot and Rachel warp knitting Further emphasizing on the knitting in the industry. 16,000 buyers from 65 for producing fresh variations need for fabric diversification countries and regions, During the seminar, Vikram of synthetic apparel fabrics. and utilization of man-made the organisers expect Chaurasia, Dy. General Information about the current fibres (MMF) for export to see around 1,200 Manager from A.T.E. developments in machines and promotion, Elangovan asked the worldwide exhibitors Enterprises, Mumbai; methods for textile dyeing and fashion institutes to reconnoitre this time. Apparel Rajinikanth, Senior finishing was also shared at new possibilities for wide- Export Promotion Manager; and T. S. Prem the seminar. Other than this, ranging use of synthetic fabrics Council (AEPC) will Kumar, Manager from ATE K. Rajendrakumar, Director – to create variety of designs. be participating at Enterprises, Coimbatore gave KTM also performed operation The Chairman also underlined the event, setting up presentations to explain the on warp knitting machine the scope of synthetic fabrics in 30 booths at the India novel technologies trending in installed at KTM centre. technical applications. pavilion. Set on the theme of Neon Garden, the event will witness a series of fashion house World Bank publishes report on South Asian shows and runway Apparel Sector parades, to reinforce Hong Kong’s position orld Bank Group has jobs in the labour-intensive Based on the key findings, as Asian fashion Wrecently published a apparel sector and provides the book made several policy trendsetter. The Small- report-cum-book on Apparel policy recommendations for recommendations to leverage Order Zone is available Employment, Trade, and greater job creation, will be the apparel manufacturing for buyers sourcing Economic Development in South released in Delhi on April 29 at sector’s potential, that from 5 to 1,000 pieces. Asia, titled ‘Stitches to Riches?’. an event organized by ICRIER include, removal of trade Qualified exhibitors The report, which investigates (Indian Council for Research restrictions to allow easy are awarded a “Green the South Asian Region’s on International Economic access to man-made fibres as Solution Suppliers” potential for improvement of Relations), in collaboration with inputs; integrating textile and insignia on their booth World Bank. apparel in order to increase fascia to address the According to Annette efficiency along the value growing demand on Dixon World Bank chain and improving social eco-friendly apparel. Vice-President for and environmental compliance Australia’s David the South Asia by introducing better human Jones, Brazil’s Region, “Apparel resource practices. At the Malwee Malhas, Czech manufacturing presents country level, policy highlights Republic’s Linia sro, the poor with job include – India: Address France’s Groupe opportunities in South constraints to firm growth Auchhan, India’s Asia. It also has a unique (like integration of textile and apparel, and access to man- ITC Limited, Japan’s ability to attract female made fibres); Bangladesh: Takashimaya, Russia’s workers. Employed Improve performance on OOO Forwad tm Baon, women tend to have non-cost factors important to Singapore’s Zalora and fewer children, reducing population growth, and buyers; Sri Lanka: Position the Chinese Mainland’s several studies have itself as regional hub and amazon.cn and found that women are take advantage of emerging JD.COM are some of more likely to dedicate markets; Pakistan: Increase the main buyers, who their income to the product diversity and often visit the show. health and education reliability, and take advantage of children.” of new markets.

42 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDIACANVAS

CII’s new president insists on structural reforms in Indian textile industry Massive fire in Bhiwandi’s much-needed breath of fresh Amaravati (Andhra Pradesh) will powerloom/ Athoughts has been brought be initiated. The Confederation’s garment in with the appointment of key focus this year besides factory Dr. Naushad Forbes, as the new human development will be President of CII (Confederation on Ease of Doing Business, With summers getting of Indian Industries). Dr. Forbes Corporate Integrity and intense fires are a firmly believes there is a lot Good Citizenship, Innovation major problem area of potential among a number and Technical Capability, for the textile industry of home-grown multinationals Sustainability and Integrating and over the last few doing business in the textile and with the World. months many such garment industry that has not Regarding the textile and incidences have been been utilized to fullest, and that clothing industry, he is of the reported. In the most a lot needs to be done for them opinion that there are many greater flexibility of hiring and recent case, at least to grow. home-grown multinationals that reducing, not just exits and three people have been Dr. Forbes, who is the Co- have proprietary technology reductions. Structural reforms injured in a massive Chairman of Forbes Marshall and excellent management like on the labour front would fire that broke out in a and an ex-Lecturer and skills that needs the right kind help the Indian textile industry multi-storey building in Consulting Professor at the of environment to grow. He get back into the competition. Bhiwandi’s powerloom/ Stanford University, has feels that the sector itself must “Textiles and garments is a garment unit. It created upon taking up his new grow faster in the economy than sector that will benefit most panic as around 150 responsibility enlisted six key they have so far. “(It’s a) Major directly from labour reforms…; people living on the enablers for building national opportunity for ‘Make in India’, reforms that would enable much third floor of the competitiveness. He has also as (the focus of) textile moves greater flexibility of hiring and building were trapped announced a new CII action out of China,” Dr. Forbes says. reducing. So, if you need seasonal inside for some time. initiative for achieving each, But he also rightly points out that employment and you have laws The three had jumped for the year, which includes for the industry to grow there that you can only hire people from the building in Human Development, with CII needs to be changes in policies, and not let them go when not panic; they have been setting up three Model Career like labour reforms, changes in needed, then you simply won’t admitted to the hospital. Centres in Gurgaon, Mumbai and logistics and infrastructure. “We hire people,” he adds. Founded It took the fire tenders Chennai. Also, about a hundred are much less active in textiles in 1895, CII, an industry-led and over an hour to bring district-level corporate training and garments, and we are almost industry-managed organisation, the fire under control centres will be established in missing in electronic hardware,” has played a proactive role in as several fire tenders 2016-17 and a CII University in he adds. Labour reforms mean India’s development process. and water tankers were pressed into service to douse the flames. The garment factory and its godown is located WTO warning: Trade growth to remain subdued in 2016 on the first floor of the building, while second and third floors of the n the latest World Trade over the course of last century, four-storey building Organizations (WTO) forecast, global trade was growing faster I houses residential it is predicted that the growth than global GDP; however, apartments. in the volume of world trade is post 2008 this ratio/trend has expected to remain sluggish in reversed which is corroborated According to the media 2016 at 2.8 per cent, unchanged by data from other international reports, the blaze from the 2.8 per cent increase agencies indicating trade figures occurred in a godown registered in 2015. S C Ralhan, for the G-7 group of countries to where powerloom- President, FIEO (The Federation fall by 7.1 per cent while trade related material like oil of India Export organizations) figures for major emerging and yarn were stored while reacting to the forecast economies including Brazil, on the ground floor of said, “A consistent less than China, India, Indonesia, Russia, building. The presence of oil drums at the place 3 per cent world trade growth textiles only makes a small and South Africa slumped by led to the fire spreading could act as a dampener to contribution to growth. It is 9.5 per cent. “Going by this rate, in other rooms. Fire export sentiments calling for for third year in a row that the doubling of goods and services officials said they immediate focus on fiscal and world trade has grown at below exports to US $ 900 billion in the rushed to the spot after infrastructural measures.” 3 per cent. Earlier forecasts of next four years, and grabbing a getting information and The WTO does not have a 5.1 per cent and 3.6 per cent 5 per cent share of global trade started evacuating the product breakdown of world have further downsized to lower by 2020 (up from 1.6 per cent residents using ladders. trade growth in volume terms levels reflecting that there has global exports share at present) but it says that clothing and been a paradigm shift whereby may be difficult,” Ralhan added.

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 43 EXPORTSTATISTICS

TRADE SNIPS US Import Analysis – Jan.- Feb. 2016 US sees growth in both values (7.59%) and volumes (12.84%) Export of woven garments from Apparel imports by the US in the first two months of 2016 registered growth in both values and Bangladesh grows by 12.64% and knitwear volumes. While the value of imports increased 7.59% from the same period last year, volumes by 6.68% in nine increased substantially by 12.84%. The average UVRs of products imported during the period months period were US $ 3.01, down from US $ 3.16 in the same period last year. In the meanwhile, Indian According to the Bangladesh’s Export Promotion Bureau, exports of apparel have registered good growth in the US market with 9.49% rise in values and between July 2015 and 8.06% increase in volumes. The country registered an average UVR of US $ 3.66, slightly up March 2016, out of the US $ 24.95 billion worth exports from US $ 3.61 in 2015. in the three quarters, the apparel sector accounts for US $ 20.44 billion (82%). As per the data, out of the US Retail sales do not declined 1%, while total sales watchers. In fact, most of them $ 20.44 billion fetched by reflect overall rose 2% from last year to US expect consumers to rev up their consumer confidence… the apparel sector so far in $ 118.8 million from US $ 117 spending in the coming months, this fiscal, woven garments Even though apparel imports by million in the prior-year period. helping to drive economic contributed US $ 10.76 billion, the US has been on the increase, Meanwhile, teen apparel retailer growth. Steady job growth should growing by 12.64% from last most apparel retailers have Buckle, Inc. (BKE) said that its nudge Americans to open their year. Earnings from knitwear reported lower sales in March comparable store net sales for wallets more. The tightening products exports clocked at 2016, according to the latest labour market, which will push US $ 9.67 billion, 6.68% March declined 11.8% from the feedback from retail analyst, unemployment further below 5% higher from what it made in year-ago period. Net sales for according to whom retailers’ by year-end, along with a modest the last fiscal’s three quarters. the month decreased 11% to US sales during the month were It is being said as summer is $ 96.6 million from last year’s US acceleration in wage gains, approaching in the US and negatively impacted by the $ 108.5 million. should help prop up market Europe, the increased demand shift of Easter from early April sentiment and boost retail sales. for clothes explains the growth last year to mid-March in the American consumers While consumers cutback are still cautious in apparel sector’s earnings. current year. In the meanwhile, spending on vehicles, furniture Apparel-makers hope exports official data claims that there Amid uncertainty in financial and electronics, cash registers will register a 10% growth has been a rebound in US markets, American consumers were ringing at building material in the current fiscal as the consumer confidence in the are being extra cautious, and garden supply sellers, problems with gas and power month of March with consumer but the slow start to 2016 clothing stores, restaurants and are also resolved. confidence index climbing to doesn’t portend sluggish sales bars, all of which saw a rise Myanmar garment 96.2 in March, from an upwardly throughout the year, say industry in sales. exports to be US revised 94.0 in February. $ 12 billion by 2020! Analyzing retail sales is a tricky The Myanmar Garment job, more so as retailers are TOTAL US GLOBAL APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.-FEB '16 Entrepreneurs Association has always adding or deleting their announced that Myanmar’s store numbers. Henceforth, Type of Apparel Jan.-Feb '15 Jan.-Feb '16 % Change apparel industry has set an sales at established stores or Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value ambitious export revenue comparable-store sales are a target of US $ 12 billion and Cotton 1894.44 6575.98 2040.094 6756.795 7.69 2.75 to create around 1.5 million key retail industry performance Wool 15.67 315.62 17.54 320.377 11.94 1.51 metric to gauge activity at store new jobs by 2020. Myanmar’s MMF 2064.57 5572.99 2418.81 6280.846 17.16 12.70 minimum wage is now the locations that have been open lowest in ASEAN countries for at least a year. L Brands, Inc. Silk & Veg 59.84 283.89 76.232 357.581 27.40 25.96 at 3,600 kyats (about US (LB), the operator of Victoria’s Total 4034.52 12748.48 4552.68 13715.60 12.84 7.59 $ 3 per) day. It has gained Secret and Bath & Body Qty & value in mn M2 & US $ momentum since 2014 Works chains, said its March when its export earnings comparable store sales increased TOTAL APPAREL EXPORTS TO THE US BY INDIA AND ITS COMPETITORS — JAN.-FEB '16 amounted to US $ 1.5 million. 3%, reflecting increases at Massive inflow of foreign both its brand stores. However, Countries Jan.-Feb '15 Jan.-Feb '16 % Change investments in the apparel comparable sales were Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value sector is also supporting it negatively impacted by the as foreign investments in the India 176.96 638.54 191.226 699.139 8.06 9.49 earlier Easter in the current industry amounted to 29% Bangladesh 306.76 906.05 345.9 982.701 12.76 8.46 year by about 1 to 2 points. The in 2015. The garment sector China 1617.92 4395.03 1886.691 4787.219 16.61 8.92 is included in Myanmar’s company recorded comparable National Export Strategy store sales increase of 7% in the Pakistan 94.58 222.92 90.065 205.758 -4.78 -7.70 (2015-2019) as part of a same period last year. Value- Sri Lanka 79.26 334.09 82.717 347.416 4.37 3.99 priced fashion apparel retailer strategy to boost the country’s Vietnam 462.19 1527.58 587.993 1878.9 27.22 23.00 export income to narrow down Cato Corp. (CATO) reported Qty & value in mn M2 & US $ huge trade deficits. that its March same-store sales

44 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 45 Apparel Online India EXPORTSTATISTICS

Canada Apparel Imports: Jan.-Feb. 2016 Ladies dresses show growth Bangladesh sees Value of apparel from India downslide in exports of imports registers  In the first two months of 2016, the suits/ensembles growth of 5.25% in first US registered increase in the import  After seeing consistent increase in two months of 2016 of dresses by 10.49% in value and the export of suits/ensembles over 21.28% in volumes, in line with the last few years, Bangladesh is now Canada’s economy is the upward trend India too saw an registering a decrease of (-) 33.73% increase in its exports in this category suddenly looking brighter in value, while volumes were down with 9.55% increase in value, while on several fronts, but (-) 24.81%, as compared to the same the volumes rose 2.23%. analysts aren’t optimistic period in 2015. that it’s going to last. Economists are marking Nightwear growth segment for US imports of undergarments up their forecasts for Bangladesh economic growth, and they on the rise  In 2015, nightwear continuously expect the Bank of Canada  While the increase in volumes of registered negative growth in exports to do the same when it imports by the US was 4.09%, values releases its monetary for India, which is a setback for those rose 4.31%. From India the values policy report. Merrill Lynch exporters; the trend continues in increased substantially by 15.44% of The Bank of America, 2016. However for Bangladesh there and volumes upsurged 21.61%. in the meantime believes is growth in this category. While the Canada’s economy growth values increased 29.32%, volumes Bangladesh, however, saw values for this year will come in at were up 24.78% in the period under decrease (-) 5.27% and volumes 1.8 per cent, which is slow review. decrease (-) 10.96%. but positive… Export of ladies blouses from Exports of T-shirts back on  After remaining in the negative track for Bangladesh zone last year, Canada India notes growth registered a positive trend  Blouse exports from India registered  T-shirts have been among the big- in imports of garments over 9.58% gains in volumes and 9.63% ticket items from Bangladesh. The the first two months of the rise in value of exports to the US in country registered increase in values of year with values up by 5.25% the category. In the meanwhile, US 17.67%, while the volumes of exports from various destinations. import of blouses was also on the in the category to the US saw growth While knitted garments were increase with volumes rising 20.56% of 19.32%, as compared to the same up 4.78%, woven garments and values increasing 15.23%. period last year. registered an increase of 5.70% in value of imports.  Exports from India saw values increasing substantially by ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN TOTAL APPAREL IMPORTS BY US FROM INDIA AND BANGLADESH: 23.58%. While the knitted JAN.-FEB. 2015 AS AGAINST JAN.-FEB. 2016 segment saw an increase of 25.80%, the woven category Exports to USA Total Imports by USA saw gains of 22.04%. India Bangladesh APPAREL TYPE  Bangladesh also registered Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % growth in the reviewed period Change Change Actual Actual Change Change Actual Actual Change Change with increase of 15.37% in value Babies Wear 0.61 -1.64 1,416,337 38.58 20.10 -6.20 2,080,557 35.60 -2.57 6.81 of exports. While the knitted Foundation Garments 16.50 17.72 327,807 23.37 52.87 48.46 633,948 13.76 0.37 -5.81 garments were up by 17.60%, the woven categories registered Jackets & Blazers 10.15 3.50 66,087 10.66 -4.34 -13.54 252,613 34.54 -1.27 -9.18 an increase of 13.97%. Ladies Blouses 20.56 15.23 1,561,542 116.43 9.58 9.63 511,817 30.63 46.34 52.81  Though last year exports Ladies Dresses 21.28 10.49 896,268 83.34 2.23 9.55 377,732 14.53 119.29 101.08 from China saw decline in the Ladies Skirts -4.07 -4.87 185,782 14.73 -3.06 -1.73 221,484 9.30 7.64 18.76 Canadian market, this year Legwear 3.41 2.18 284,008 1.95 -24.25 -7.95 – 0.672 – – there is a reversal with exports Men's Shirts 9.19 6.10 530,069 43.03 24.28 10.97 2,258,305 127.16 3.37 0.05 increasing 2.94% in value. Nightwear 23.85 20.85 481,718 16.30 -9.34 -0.04 276,031 8.27 24.78 29.32  Vietnam registered an increase Suits / Ensembles 30.26 8.09 151,825 14.04 43.62 -7.98 57,605 3.31 -24.81 -33.73 in value of exports to the Canadian market in the first Sweaters 0.13 -7.63 7,760 0.59 -18.71 -27.78 66,787 4.22 71.79 111.80 two months of 2016 of 5.31%. Trousers 13.02 9.64 1,046,630 76.09 6.56 6.31 8,782,793 498.23 11.83 7.85 An increase was registered in T-Shirts 10.94 5.16 4,328,482 174.682 11.26 8.37 3,681,947 95.92 19.32 17.67 knitted category of 5.19% while woven segment saw increase Undergarments 4.09 4.31 3,159,643 52.38 21.61 15.44 4,398,730 48.47 -10.96 -5.27 of 5.43%. Value in mn US $ and Qty in dozens Legwear in dozen pairs Babies Wear in Kg

46 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com

Apparel Online India 47

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 47 RESOURCECENTRE

JAIN NARROW FABRICS INTRODUCES 4-WAY ELASTIC

CATERS TO PRODUCTS THAT ARE NOT READILY AVAILABLE IN INDIA

well-known name in manufacturing elastic People are willing to pay Rs. 2,500 for lingerie, which tapes and webbings based in Delhi and was not the case earlier. This generation is willing to A Haryana, Jain Narrow Fabrics is continuously pay! So it’s a good time to work in the domestic market,” growing by providing high quality products asserts Mukesh. not just to the domestic market, but to exporters as well. Though there are many players in the Indian market The product is being currently marketed under the brand for manufacturing elastics, but what sets Jain Narrow name ‘Vivia’. The company has a well-built manufacturing Fabrics apart from competition is their quality control, base and excellent process outsourcing that makes it timely delivery, limited suppliers for products, besides amongst the leading manufacturers in India. Speaking large portfolio of products. The company is equipped with exclusively to Apparel Online, Mukesh Jain, MD of highly advanced computerized machines to manufacture Jain Narrow Fabrics, shares the USP of his brand and elastic tapes and webbing in woven of any width ranging also what sets him apart from competition from 3 mm to 220 mm; and in knitted range from 200 mm Primarily catering to the domestic market and also to to 600 mm. It also provides elastic tapes in any colour that exporters with a 70:30 ratio, Jain Narrow Fabrics is is designed according to the customer’s need, producing seeing the changing one million metre per day elastics. “We never leave perspective of domestic working with small quantities as these small quantities players to good quality have made us big. People who were buying 10 rolls are products with the now buying 1,000 rolls. You can say that we are growing apt price points. “We with them or we are collaborating and growing. In India, are replacing China! not many are into sampling, but we don’t mind putting in There are so many Rs. 2,500 to Rs. 3,000 on a sample as we get almost 8 out domestic people who of 10 orders for these new products,” maintains Mukesh. go to China to get their Recently, the company has introduced 4-way elastic, elastics, but now they which was a requirement received from the sportswear are working with us. If industry and also is catering to other segments such we want we can also as jeggings, etc. The company’s elastic is being used export to China, but by the Pro-kabaddi team, and many well-known brands the duty structure is in India. “Quality and price competitiveness are our very stringent there. plus points. We do what you don’t usually get in the Our quality is at Indian market. Not many people make elastic such as par,” reveals Mukesh. we do, and even if they do, the quality is bad and there Comparatively, he is shrinkage. We are No. 1 in shoe materials as comfort is also seeing a is important and we work with various big brands change in domestic such as Bata, Woodland, Ducati, etc.,” claims Mukesh. consumer behaviour, The company’s designing department is constantly which earlier used to engaged in creation of new patterns and designs with make-do with lesser colour variations to match the client’s specification. The quality products to company is Oeko-Tex certified, dealing in special needs Mukesh Jain (L), MD of Jain Narrow Fabrics with his son Abhishek Jain meet their price points. for raw materials such as cotton, polyester, rayon, lurex “Earlier people never and bright nylon and uses superior heat-resistant thread used to think before and spandex yarn as a base for their elastic tapes. selecting elastic, but now brands are being conscious Through decades of successful business, the company of its quality so that they no longer get complaints from has made a mark in elastics, with both domestic buyers their buyers,” adds Mukesh. and exporters and is looking towards 2016 with the With an extensive product category, including woven same growth outlook that it has been enjoying since elastic, knitted elastic, braided elastic, flat cords, elastic inception. “We make mistakes in terms of the labour cords, and regular round cords in different materials, doing something wrong, but time-to-time we try to woven and knitted tapes, etc., the company is also perfect things. We have quick response teams, so we stressing on the fact that domestic players are ready to cannot ignore things. We are well aware that both pay apt prices in turn for the product categories. “Now ‘ignorance’ and ‘arrogance’ are bad for our business,” in India, lingerie is going up as the market is maturing. concludes Mukesh.

48 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCECENTRE

MADEIRA INDIA WORKING TO ENHANCE ITS REACH

nown for its embroidery to serve more customers, as Kthreads, Madeira India there are some segments which is continuously updating the are not yet explored completely,” customers on their products. shares Akshay. In the meanwhile, Main focus of the company in the company has increased the India is on exporters and upper range of mat finished threads level of domestic segment, as it and fire fighter (poly neon) has the wherewithal to respond threads. They also share that of to the high quality needs of such late metallic threads are ahead customers. Hartwig Kauschat, in comparison to other items. Director and Akshay Kumar, The Madeira team also adds Sales Director, Madeira India that the size of big buying feel that there is a cyclic trend operations has come down and of print and embroidery because sourcing has become more of which the mass market may fragmented into comparatively be affected, but at the high-end smaller buying operations. embroidery is always strong. For “Many people have taken few the upper-end market Madeira buyers and started with new has very fine threads that are buying houses; so the number of mostly used for small logos/ buying houses has gone up, but it intricate detailing, especially on has become more difficult to keep the shirts; recently the range of

(L-R) Akshay Kumar, Sales Director; Saurabh Jain, Director; and Hartwig Kauschat, Director, Madeira India colours in this category has been track of quality standards. This increased to give the customer has actually worked in our favour better choice. as companies have more faith The company has seen a shift on international brands like us, in the type of threads used in since our quality parameters embroidery and is geared to are very high and they need not meet the change. “There is shift worry about that aspect,” avers from viscose threads to polyester Akshay. Moving forward the and now we have more varieties domestic market too has created in polyester. It is a sizeable shift. new benchmarks in quality. This trend is not only in India “One should not underestimate but also in other markets. Still the domestic markets; even there are some segments in ladies saree manufacturers are using garments and sportswear where branded thread now, and 35 viscose is being preferred. We per cent of our operation is are doing the groundwork and now for the domestic market,” making the market base broader concludes Hartwig.

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NEELAM THREAD VENTURES INTO SEWING THREADS INTRODUCES NEW PRODUCT CATEGORIES WITH A POSITIVE GROWTH OUTLOOK IN 2016

Amongst the well-established manufacturers of top quality embroidery threads in the country, Neelam Thread Pvt. Ltd. is making its mark in the 100 per cent viscose rayon embroidery thread segment under the name of ‘Telephone’ brand, which is extensively being used by garment manufacturers, exporters and embroiderers in India as well as abroad.

urrently, Neelam Threads is KEY PRODUCT FEATURES: Cprocessing and producing  ‘Telephone’ thread scores on 400 tonnes of yarn per annum, quality price, range and availability i.e. equivalent to 15,000  million metres in length and All threads are eco-friendly, also producing 100 per cent free from AZO dyes trilobal polyester yarn as per  Oeko-Tex certified the requirement of high speed  Colour Fastness through accurate, multithread computerized computerized colour matching machines. Apart from this, the  Wide range of colours company has also forayed into sewing threads, expanding its  Moisture retention less than reach beyond embroidery threads. 0.5 per cent “We started looking at the section in 2013 and it took us a year to get the right quality and colours. internationally to maintain But now we have a full-fledged consistent colours throughout setup with various colour options, our orders,” adds Ankit. ready to feed the market,” claims In terms of variety in colours, Ankit Jain, Director, Neelam the company has 480 colours Thread Pvt. Ltd. For excellent on its shade card that are in quality at each stage, stringent stock every time in their factory quality control measures are which makes it easier for taken to ensure best results with them to fulfil minimum order latest lab equipment for testing to requirements. With current ratio support the effort. of 30:70 per cent for domestic Enjoying a strong clientele for and exports business, the their embroidery threads, the company is focusing on both company is initially targeting markets. So the products are the same customers for sewing being used for lehengas, sarees threads. Interestingly, many of and suits in the domestic market the companies are looking to and for brands such as Zara, use the product for embroidery H&M and the like in the export as the quality of viscose used market. “Both the markets are – Ankit Jain (L) and Amit Jain, both Directors at Neelam Thread Pvt. Ltd. gives it a similar sheen as in different and would provide an embroidery thread, but at us growth opportunities in much less the cost. “The cost is the future. For the past many the basic differentiator between years the focus has been more both these threads,” reveals on the prints and less on the In terms of variety in colours, the company Ankit. The major challenge embroidery, but now embroidery is coming back from the past 2-3 has 480 colours on its shade card that are in in thread manufacturing is to maintain consistent colour seasons,” claims Ankit. stock every time in their factory which makes it throughout all orders, which Going forward the company is easier for them to fulfil minimum order the company is maintaining expanding its product range requirements. With current ratio of 30:70 per through a due diligence process. further, introducing many new “We have a lab, where we have offerings such as the metallic, cent for domestic and exports business, the a colour eye patching system. which is a rage this season with company is focusing on both markets. We use spectrometer for colour 64 colour options. The year looks matching and do a delta e-ratio promising for the company, as which should not be below 1 for Ankit concludes, “We are hoping export quality. We are using this year will be very good both all the parameters as defined for spun and yarn, as well.”

50 Apparel Online India | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCECENTRE

HOOK / BAR HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES BUTTONS / BUCKLES

ELASTICS / TAPES ELASTICS / TAPES / BUTTON

www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 51 52 Apparel Online India Krayons Sourcing: ‘Costing’ VF Corp. in quest of strategic an issue to grow in India options for its LSG business F Corporation, a global leader in distribution, rayons Sourcing Ltd., good,” said Rajnish, who has Vdesign, manufacturing and marketing branded Kjust a year old buying experience of more than 20 lifestyle apparel, footwear and accessories, is on a house and doing business of US years in the apparel industry look out for strategic alternatives for its Licensed $ 25 million, is an example of and has worked with many top Sports Group (LSG) business, which is a division successful entrepreneurship. companies, both in India and of VF’s Imagewear Alliance. Income from the Initiated by Rajnish Kapoor, Bangladesh. coalition reached US $ 1.1 billion in 2015, with the company is having On the question of why the LSG representing about half of the total amount. operations in Bangladesh and company is sourcing less from The company’s LSG business supplies apparel and Hong Kong, and is catering India, Rajnish argued, “There fanwear through licensing agreements with US and to many clients in the US, are two main reasons; first international professional sports leagues, colleges Australia, Holland, South Africa our products and quantity and universities, and lifestyle brands. and some Indian retailers too. sizes suit more to Bangladesh Eric Wiseman, Chairman and CEO of the company With 15 vendors in Bangladesh manufacturing, be it trousers, elaborated, “As active portfolio managers, we and 5 in India, the organization denims or cargos. Secondly, constantly assess the composition of our company to is expecting 15 to 20 per cent and more importantly, Indian ensure that VF’s portfolio is aligned with our strategic growth in the upcoming fiscal. factories still don’t offer objectives and positioned to maximize both growth “I started the buying office as ‘justified’ costing. If any Indian and returns to our shareholders. In this respect, we I wanted to establish my own exporter is able to give us are exploring options for our LSG business to position identity. We are very happy with same costing as an exporter in the organization to continue its success and achieve our first year’s performance, Bangladesh, we are more than its future potential.” VF Corporation recently made but coming fiscal is going willing to work with him.” changes in its organizational structure as well where to be difficult looking to the The company is already looking it appointed Scott H. Baxter as the Group President of global scenario, so even 15 to explore new markets and add Outdoor & Action Sports Americas. to 20 per cent growth will be new clients to its portfolio.

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