Chapter 19: Haircoloring and Lightening TOPICS

MILADY’S PROFESSIONAL BARBERING COURSE MANAGEMENT GUIDE LESSON PLAN 19.0

1. Introduction A. Historical Note B. Overview 2. Characteristics and Structure of Hair A. Overview B. Factors of Structure 3. Color Theory A. Defi nition B. Laws of Color 4. Haircoloring Products A. Classifi cations and Characteristics B. Developers and Lighteners 5. Haircoloring Procedures Terminology A. Patch Test B. Strand Test C. Soap Cap D. Tint Back E. Record Keeping F. Client Consultation 6. Haircolor Application Terms A. Virgin Application B. Retouch Application C. Single-Process Haircoloring D. Double-Process Haircoloring E. Highlighting F. Lowlighting G. Cap Technique H. Foil Technique I. Free-form Technique 7. Haircoloring Product Applications A. Temporary Color Rinses B. Semipermanent Haircolor C. Demipermanent Haircolor D. Permanent Haircolor E. Lightening F. Special Effects Haircoloring and Lightening 8. Special Problems and Corrective Haircolor A. Gray Hair B. Fillers C. Reconditioning Damaged Hair D. Tint Back to Natural Color E. Coating Dyes

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© 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use.

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 440440 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM 9. Coloring Mustaches and Beards A. Products B. Procedure 10. Haircoloring and Lightening Safety Precautions A. Haircoloring B. Hair Lightening

NOTES TO THE INSTRUCTOR Haircoloring and lightening are subjects that require comprehensive instruction and diligent study to master. There are two distinct areas of knowledge that require this attention. First, students need a thorough understanding of the laws of color to help them apply the concepts needed to analyze existing hair colors, choose appropriate haircoloring products, and formulate tints for the desired end result. Second, students need to understand the reasons underlying different application techniques and how to perform them. Application profi ciency can only be accomplished with repeated and diligent practice. Mock products can be used during the initial stages of application mastery, but actual haircoloring and lightening products should be used as soon as possible for students to benefi t effectively from the practice.

STUDENT PREPARATION: Read Chapter 19: Haircoloring and Lightening STUDENT MATERIALS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student Workbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student CD-ROM • Writing materials • Mannequin and kit items

LEARNING OBJECTIVES Upon completion of this lesson, students should be able to: 1. Discuss the principles of color theory and relate their importance to haircoloring. 2. Identify the classifi cations of haircolor products and explain their actions on the hair. 3. Explain the action of lighteners on the hair. 4. Identify the products used in haircoloring and lightening. 5. Demonstrate the correct procedures for applying haircolor and lighteners. 6. Identify products used to color facial hair. 7. Discuss safety precautions used in haircoloring and lightening.

ALLOTTED TIME: Eight to ten hours, depending on depth of study and range of activities. TEACHING AIDS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Instructor Slides • Whiteboard or chalkboard; dry-erase markers or chalk • CD/DVD player or overhead projector • Haircoloring and lightening products • Mannequin, tools, implements, and supplies for demonstrations

EDUCATOR REFERENCES

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Course Management Guide

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 441441 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM LESSON OUTLINE 1. Introduction A. Historical Note 1. Colors were symbols of power and mysticism in early cultures. 2. First synthetic dyes were developed in 1883. B. Overview 1. Haircoloring: the science and art of changing the color of the hair. 2. Hair lightening: the partial or total removal of natural pigment and artifi cial color from the hair. 3. Reasons for color change: fashion changes, to cover gray hair, or for decorative effects.

2. Characteristics and Structure of Hair: (See textbook Figure 19-2 and Table 19-1.) A. Overview 1. Hair structure affects quality and success of haircolor service. 2. Examples: strength of cuticle, elasticity, and natural pigment in cortex. B. Factors of Structure 1. Texture: melanin distribution different within different textures; may affect color saturation and processing time. 2. Density: affects coverage and amount of product required. 3. Porosity: level infl uences hair’s ability to absorb liquids. a. Porous hair accepts haircolor faster and permits darker saturation. b. Low porosity: resistant; longer processing time. c. Average porosity: processes in average amount of time. d. High porosity: indicated by lifted cuticle; may not hold color. 4. Natural hair color: ranges from black to dark brown to red, and from dark blonde to lightest blonde; determined by thickness of the hair, number and size of pigment granules, and ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin. a. Eumelanin: gives black and brown color to hair. b. Pheomelanin: found in yellowish-blonde, ginger, and red tones. c. White hair is the color of keratin; does not contain eumelanin or pheomelanin. d. Contributing pigment: pigment that lies under the natural hair color; gray hair indicates a loss of pigment. e. Haircoloring is based on modifying contributing pigment with products to create new colors.

3. Color Theory (See textbook Figures 19-3 to 19-7 and Table 19-1.) A. Defi nition 1. Color is a form of visible light energy; human eye sees only six basic colors; the brain is capable of visualizing combinations. 2. What we see: movement of light rays absorbed or refl ected by natural or artifi cial pigments. B. Laws of Color 1. Regulate mixing of dyes and pigments to make other colors. 2. Based in science and adapted to art; example: equal parts red and blue always make violet. 3. Primary colors a. Basic or true colors; cannot be created by combining other colors; yellow, red, and blue. b. All other colors created by some combination of red, yellow, or blue. c. Predominantly blue colors: cool-toned; predominantly red colors: warm-toned. 1. Blue: darkest and only cool primary color; provides depth and darkness to any color. 2. Red: medium primary color; makes blue appear lighter and makes yellow appear darker. 3. Yellow: lightest primary color; lightens and brightens other colors. 442

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 442442 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM 4. Secondary colors a. Created by mixing equal amounts of two primary colors. b. Yellow and blue create green; blue and red create violet; red and yellow create orange. c. Natural hair color is made up of a combination of primary and secondary colors. 5. Tertiary colors a. Created by mixing equal amounts of one primary color with an adjacent secondary color. b. Yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, and yellow-orange. 6. Quaternary colors are all other combinations of all three primary colors. 7. Complementary colors a. Any two colors situated directly across from each other on the color wheel. b. When mixed together, they neutralize each other; example: red and green create brown. c. Complimentary pairs: red/green; orange/blue; yellow/violet. d. Always consist of a primary and secondary color; always consist of all three primary colors; example: red (a primary color), complementary color is green (a secondary color); green is made up of blue and yellow (primary colors); three primary colors are represented to varying degrees. 8. Hue and tone a. Hue: the basic name of a color; examples: red, yellow, blue-green. b. Tone: describes warmth or coolness of a color. 1. Warm colors and tones: also known as highlighting colors: red, orange, and yellow. 2. Cool colors and tones: also known as ash or drab: blue, green, and violet. 9. Level a. Unit of measure to identify the degree of lightness or darkness of a color. b. Level system: arrangement of hair colors on a scale of 1 to 10; used to analyze the lightness or darkness of a color. c. Basic guide: Level 1, darkest (black); level 10, lightest (lightest blond). d. Necessary for formulating, matching, and correcting colors. e. Saturation or intensity: degree of concentration or amount of pigment in the color; the strength of a color; example: saturated red is very vivid; any color can be more or less saturated. f. Base color: artifi cial haircolors developed from primary and secondary colors; the predominant tone of a haircoloring product; infl uences fi nal color; example: violet base color produces cool results and minimizes yellow tones. 10. Identifying natural level and tone a. First step in performing a haircolor service. b. Use manufacturer’s swatches or color ring to match client’s hair color and determine level. Activity 1: Supply students with paints, play dough, or modeling clay in the primary colors so they can mix and create their own color wheels. It is recommended that students perform this activity individually instead of working in groups because it allows instructors to evaluate each student’s comprehension and results separately.

4. Haircoloring Products: see textbook Figures 19-8 to 19-14, textbook Tables 19-2 to 19-4, and Supplement 19.0. Note: Assemble and display examples of each type of haircoloring product for reference during lecture and discussion. A. Classifi cations and Characteristics 1. Temporary haircolor a. Non-oxidation color b. Pigment or dye molecules are the largest in this classifi cation of haircolor products.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 443443 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM c. Molecule size prevents penetration into cuticle layer and produces a coating action. d. Subtle color changes; lasts only until next shampoo. e. Chemical composition: acidic; creates physical change. f. pH range of 2.0 to 4.5. g. Patch test not required. h. Types: color rinses, color-enhancing shampoos, crayons, haircolor sprays, color mousses, or gels. 2. Semipermanent haircolor a. Non-oxidation color b. Also known as direct dye; does not develop color. c. Stains the cuticle and partially penetrates the cortex. d. Pigment molecules will diffuse and gradually wash out during shampooing; will fade. e. Most will last six to eight shampoos. f. Chemical composition: mildly alkaline; raises cuticle; swells cortex; allows some penetration. g. Process known as self-penetrating; creates physical and mild chemical change. h. Most do not contain ammonia; may be used right out of the bottle. i. Requires a patch test. j. pH range: 7.0 to 9.0; formulations with salt bonds range from 7.0 to 8.0. k. Use mild, acid-balanced shampoo and conditioning to neutralize residual alkalinity. l. Uses: cover or blend partially gray (up to 25 percent) hair without affecting natural color; highlight, enhance, or deepen color tones as a non-peroxide toner for pre-lightened hair. 3. Demipermanent haircolor a. Oxidation color. b. Also known as no-lift, deposit-only haircolor; called semipermanent by some manufacturers. c. Longer lasting than traditional semipermanent color. d. Deposits color without lifting natural or artifi cial color; uses low-volume developer. e. Requires a patch test before application. f. Oxidizing agent in developer develops the color. g. Uses: imparts vivid color results; covers non-pigmented hair; refreshes faded permanent color; deposits tonal changes without lift; reverse highlights and corrective coloring. 4. Permanent haircolor a. Oxidation color b. Mixed with a developer; color remains in hair shaft, but new growth requires a retouch. c. Usually contain ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide. d. Lightens and deposits color in one process; can lighten natural hair color one to two levels. e. Amount of lift controlled by color pH and concentration of peroxide in developer. f. Usually mixed with equal parts of 20-volume peroxide; some products use a 2:1 ratio. g. Can lift up to four levels with higher-volume developers. h. Always read the manufacturer’s directions. i. Considered a penetrating tint; penetrates through cuticle into cortex 1. Aniline derivatives diffuse into the cortex and form larger tint molecules that become trapped. 2. Produces permanent chemical and structural change in cortex. j. pH range: 9.0 to 10.5; alkaline. k. Color may fade and require refreshing; new growth creates line of demarcation. l. Generally the best products for covering gray hair; remove natural pigment and add artifi cial color to gray or pigmented hair. m. Requires a patch test.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 444444 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM n. Types of permanent color 1. Oxidation tints: also known as aniline derivative tints, penetrating tints, synthetic-organic tints, and amino tints; also used as toners. 2. Vegetable tints: permanent; non-oxidation; made from plants; example: henna (has a coating action). 3. Metallic or mineral dyes: advertised as color restorers or progressive colors; not professional products. 4. Compound dyes: metallic or mineral dyes combined with vegetable tint; not used professionally. B. Developers and Lighteners

1. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) a. Oxidizing agent that supplies oxygen gas for color development in oxidative haircolor products; primary oxidizing agent used in haircoloring. b. Creates color change when oxidizer combines with melanin in the hair. c. pH range: 2.5 to 4.5. d. Diffuses and lightens melanin within cortex; diffused melanin called oxymelanin. e. pH level for use in haircoloring: 3.5 to 4.0; mildly acidic.

f. Volume: term used to denote different strengths of H2O2. g. Lower volume: less lift achieved; higher volume: greater lifting action. h. Permanent haircolor products use 10-, 20-, 30-, or 40-volume for proper color development; 10-volume for less lightening; 20-volume for usual strength; 30- or 40-volume for high lift.

i. H2O2 also known as developer, oxidizer, generator, and catalyst; available in three forms.

1. Dry peroxide: tablet or powder; dissolved in liquid H2O2 to boost volume; somewhat obsolete. 2. Cream peroxide: contains additives for stabilization, control, or moisture regulation. 3. Liquid peroxide: contains stabilizing acid; pH 3.5 to 4.0; convenient; used with most bleach and tint formulas. j. Hydrogen peroxide safety precautions 1. Use clean implements when measuring, using, and storing hydrogen peroxide. 2. Do not allow hydrogen peroxide formulations to come in contact with metal. 3. Avoid breathing in vapors caused by mixing hydrogen peroxide and haircolor products. 4. Dispose of plastic bottles that develop a bulge. Warning: Open with extreme caution! 2. Activators a. Defi nition: oxidizers added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its chemical action. b. Effects: increased lifting power, controlled by number of activators added. c. On-the-scalp applications: up to three activators; off-the-scalp processes: up to four activators. 3. Lighteners a. Chemical compounds that disperse, dissolve, and decolorize natural hair pigment. b. Products: bleach formula and hydrogen peroxide. c. Process: chemical heat produced by combination of products. d. pH level: about 10.0 when mixed for use. 4. Lightening a. Hair pigment goes through different stages of color as it lightens; change depends on amount of hair pigment, strength of lightening agent, and processing time. b. Up to ten stages of lightening from black to pale yellow. c. Uses 1. Create blonde shades not possible with permanent haircolor. 2. Lighten hair to fi nal shade. 3. Pre-lighten to prepare for toner.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 445445 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM 4. Lighten to a particular shade. 5. Lighten or brighten existing shades. d. Types

1. Oil: mixture of H2O2 and sulfonated oil; on-the-scalp lightener; mildest form; lifts one to two levels. 2. Cream: most popular; on-the-scalp lightener; easy to apply; will not run, drip, or dry out. 3. Powder: quicker and stronger action; off-the-scalp lightener; will hold but dry out quickly. e. Contribution of underlying pigment 1. Defi nition: natural pigment that remains in the hair after lightening. 2. Contributes to the artifi cial color that is added. 5. Toners a. Defi nition: haircoloring products applied to pre-lightened hair to achieve desired color or tone. b. Contain aniline derivatives. c. Differ from tints in degree of color saturation; available in pale and delicate colors. d. Require a patch test; strand test is recommended. 6. Dye removers a. Also known as color or tint removers. b. Oil-base dye remover: lifts trapped color pigment from cuticle; does not create structural change in hair and will not make drastic color-level changes. c. Dye solvent: produces strong lightening effects; non-allergenic; does not require patch test. 7. Fillers a. Products that create a color base and equalize excessive porosity. b. Protein and non-protein: available in gel, cream, and liquid forms. c. Available in clear, neutral, and a variety of color bases. 8. Stain removers: solutions designed to remove color product from the skin.

5. Haircoloring Procedures Terminology: see textbook Procedures 19-1 and 19-2. A. Patch Test 1. Determines the reaction to aniline derivative tints; given 24 to 48 hours prior to haircoloring. 2. Procedure a. Select test area: behind the ear or on inside of the elbow. b. Cleanse and dry test area. c. Prepare test solution according to the manufacturer’s directions. d. Apply solution to the test area with a cotton-tipped applicator. e. Leave the test area uncovered and undisturbed for 24 hours. f. Examine the test area for negative or positive reactions. g. Record the results on the client record card. 1. Negative skin test: no signs of infl ammation; indicates that color may be safely applied. 2. Positive skin test: redness, swelling, burning, itching, blisters, or eruptions; indicates allergy; do not use tint formulation. Activity 2: Have students choose partners and perform patch tests on each other. Supply index cards or client records cards for students to record the results. B. Strand Test 1. Determines hair’s reaction to color product, processing time, porosity, and color outcome. 2. Procedure a. Part off a ½"-square section from lower crown area and place on foil or plastic wrap. b. Formulate and apply haircolor product to strand.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 446446 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM c. Check development time at 5-minute intervals until color is achieved; note on record card. d. When color has developed, remove foil and place towel under section; mist thoroughly with water, add shampoo, and massage through strand; rinse by misting and observe results. e. Adjust timing, product formulation, or application method as necessary; proceed with service. Activity 3: Have students perform a strand test on a mannequin or each other. C. Soap Cap 1. Defi nition: equal parts of a haircolor product and shampoo. 2. Applied like a regular shampoo. 3. Used to brighten existing color, reduce yellow tones in gray hair, or blend demarcation lines. Activity 4: Have students mix products and perform a soap cap on a mannequin. D. Tint Back: the process of returning hair to its natural shade with haircoloring products. E. Record Keeping 1. Client record card: used to log all haircoloring service information. 2. Release statement form: used when client’s hair may not withstand chemical processes. a. A requirement of most malpractice insurance. b. Not a legally binding contract; may not fully protect against liability. F. Client Consultation 1. First step in a haircoloring service. 2. Should be performed in a well-lit room with strong natural light or incandescent lighting; fl uorescent lighting not suitable for judging existing hair colors (see textbook Figure 19-17b.) 3. Procedure a. Drape client and fi ll out client record card with client name, address, and so forth. b. Perform hair and scalp analysis; determine natural level; log on record card. c. Ask client leading questions about desired end result. d. Show examples of appropriate colors and make a determination with the client. e. Review the procedure, application technique, maintenance, and cost. f. Gain approval and perform patch and strand tests; record results on client record card. Activity 5: Have students partner and perform a client consultation on each other.

6. Haircolor Application Terms A. Virgin Application 1. Application of haircolor to hair that has not been previously colored. 2. Product is applied to entire hair stand from scalp to ends. B. Retouch Application 1. New hair growth becomes obvious when using permanent color or lighteners. 2. New growth: section of hair shaft between scalp and previously colored hair. 3. Creates line of demarcation that requires blending with color or lightener application. 4. Retouch: application of color or lightener to new growth. C. Single-Process Haircoloring 1. Processing that lightens and colors hair in a single application; example: virgin and retouch applications. 2. Also known as single-application coloring, one-step coloring, one-step tinting, and single- application tinting. D. Double-Process Haircoloring 1. Processing that requires two separate applications to achieve desired color. 2. Hair is lightened before depositing color is applied.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 447447 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM 3. Allows independent control of lightening and coloring actions. 4. Also known as double-application coloring, two-step coloring, two-step tinting, and double- application tinting. 5. May include use of lighteners and toners, pre-softening and tinting, or fi llers and color. 6. Pre-softening a. Process of treating gray or resistant hair to facilitate better color penetration. b. Softens and opens cuticle. c. Use 1 ounce of 20-volume peroxide to 8 drops of 28 percent ammonia water, or oil or cream bleach product. E. Highlighting 1. Process of coloring some of hair strands lighter than the natural color. 2. Examples: frosting, tipping, and streaking. F. Lowlighting 1. Also known as reverse highlighting. 2. Process of coloring strands or sections darker than the natural color. G. Cap Technique 1. Involves pulling strands of hair through holes of a perforated cap with a plastic or metal hook. 2. Number of strands pulled determines degree of highlighting or lowlighting that is achieved. H. Foil Technique 1. Involves slicing or weaving out sections of hair to be placed on a piece of foil. 2. Color or lightening product usually brushed onto the hair section. I. Free-form Technique 1. Also called balayage. 2. Process of painting lightener or color directly onto clean, styled hair for subtle or dramatic results.

7. Haircoloring Product Applications: see textbook Procedures 19-3 to 19-6, and Supplements 19.1 to 19.9. A. Temporary Color Rinses 1. Applied at the shampoo bowl; remain in the hair with no rinsing; little color change. 2. Uses: bring out natural highlights; temporarily restore faded shades; neutralize yellow tones in white or gray hair; tone down over-lightened hair. 3. Perform a preliminary strand test to determine proper color selection. Activity 6: Review textbook preparation and procedures, then have students perform a temporary rinse application on a mannequin. B. Semipermanent Haircolor 1. Deposit-only colors; fi nal outcome depends on hair’s color and texture, applied color, and development time. 2. Available in liquid and cream forms in a variety of colors. 3. True semipermanent tints do not require the addition of hydrogen peroxide. 4. Color is self-penetrating and is applied the same way each time; retouching is eliminated. 5. Lasts through six to eight shampoos. 6. Requires a 24-hour patch test. 7. Some require pre-shampooing, others do not; follow manufacturer’s directions. 8. Selecting semipermanent color a. Artifi cial color added to natural pigment creates a darker color; consider natural color as half of the formula. b. Hair with no gray: select color that is two levels lighter than desired shade. c. Ash and cool shades create colors that appear darker than if a warm shade is applied.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 448448 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:01:43:01 PMPM d. Less than 50 percent gray: select a shade that matches the natural hair color. e. 50 percent or more gray hair: select a color one shade darker than the natural hair color. C. Demipermanent Haircolor 1. Deposit-only color; use same procedures as for semipermanent haircolor. 2. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines for application, color selection, and processing time. 3. Semipermanent or demipermanent color application procedure a. Shampoo, rinse, and towel blot hair per manufacturer’s directions for product type. b. Part the hair into four sections. Put on gloves. Apply protective cream to hairline. c. Work with ¼" to ½" subsections; apply color to entire hair shaft from scalp to ends; use applicator bottle or brush depending on product consistency; gently work color through hair with fi ngers until saturated. Do not massage into the scalp. d. Apply plastic cap per manufacturer’s directions. e. Process according to strand test results and manufacturer’s directions. Check color development. f. Following color development, wet hair with warm water, lather, and work through hair. g. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, and condition. Remove stains as necessary. h. Rinse, towel blot, and style. Activity 7: Have students refer to the textbook procedures, then guide them through the application of semipermanent or demipermanent color on a mannequin. D. Permanent Haircolor 1. Contains aniline derivatives; penetrating tints; single-process or double-process tints. 2. Single-process haircoloring a. Does not require pre-shampooing, pre-softening, or pre-bleaching. b. Most products formulated for use with 20-volume hydrogen peroxide. c. Tint is applied on dry hair. d. Color the hair lighter or darker than the natural color. e. Blends in gray and white hair to match the natural hair color. f. Tones down streaks, off-shades, discoloration, and faded hair ends. g. Porosity important in color selection. h. To tint darker 1. Normal porosity: one-half level lighter than desired color. 2. Slightly porous: one level lighter than desired color. 3. Very porous: one to two levels lighter than desired color. i. Gray hair 1. To match natural color and cover gray, select color closest to natural shade. 2. To brighten or lighten hair color and cover gray, select shade lighter than natural color. 3. To darken hair and cover gray, select a color darker than the natural hair color. j. To tint lighter 1. Identify the desired level 6 2. Identify the natural level –4 3. Subtract the natural level from the desired level 2 4. Add the level difference to the desired level +6 5. Total is the level of color needed 8 3. Single-process color procedure: review preparation and cleanup steps for virgin and retouch applications. a. Virgin application 1. Follow manufacturer’s directions. 2. Put on gloves and part dry hair into four sections.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 449449 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 3. Prepare color formula for either bottle or brush application method. 4. Begin in section where hair is most resistant or most color change will occur. 5. Part off ¼" subsections; apply color to mid-shaft area; stay ½" from scalp; do not apply to porous ends. 6. Process according to strand test results and manufacturer’s directions. 7. Check color development; apply product to hair at scalp; pull color through to ends. 8. Lightly wet hair with warm water; lather; massage through hair. 9. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, and condition. Remove stains as necessary. 10. Rinse, towel blot, and style. b. Retouch application 1. Use same preparation steps as for coloring virgin hair, then proceed as follows. 2. Refer to the client record card for correct color selection and other data. 3. Apply tint fi rst to new growth at sideburns, temples, and nape area. 4. Apply the tint to new growth in ¼" partings; do not overlap; check color development. 5. When color has almost developed, dilute remaining tint by adding a mild shampoo or warm water. Apply and gently work mixture through the hair with the fi ngertips. Comb and blend from the scalp to the hair ends for even distribution. 6. Process for the required time. Rinse with warm water to remove excess color. 7. Use an acid-balanced shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Remove color stains, if necessary. 8. Style the hair as desired. Activity 8: Have students refer to the textbook procedures, then guide them through formulating and applying permanent color on a mannequin. Option: Perform retouch applications fi rst so the same mannequin can be used for two practice applications. E. Lightening 1. Double-process haircoloring a. Begins with hair lightening, followed by tint or toner application. b. Lightening creates a desired color foundation. c. Choose lightener; cream or oil lighteners: on-the-scalp products; powder lighteners: off-the- scalp products. d. Lightener retouch: cream lightener helps prevent overlapping of previously lightened hair; applied to new growth only. e. Toners: same chemical ingredients and actions as permanent haircolor; pale, pastel shades; completely dependent upon the proper preliminary lightening treatment. 1. Strand tests are vital to correct double-process applications. 2. After lightening, apply toner to entire hair shaft. 3. Semipermanent or demipermanent color can also be used to tone. 2. Double-process haircoloring procedure: review preparation and cleanup steps for double- process applications. a. Divide dry hair into four sections. b. Apply protective cream around hairline. Put on gloves. c. Prepare lightening formula. Use either bottle or brush application method. d. Begin in section where hair is most resistant or where there will be the most color change. 1 e. Part off ⁄8" subsections; apply lightener ½" from the scalp up to porous ends. f. Apply to top and underside of subsection; place strip of cotton along part lines to prevent seepage to the scalp area. g. Apply lightener to other sections in same manner. Keep lightener moist with repeated applications if necessary. Do not comb the lightener through the hair.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 450450 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM h. Process according to strand test results and manufacturer’s directions. Check lightening action by misting as for a strand test about 15 minutes before the completion of the time required. If the level is not light enough, reapply the mixture and continue testing frequently until the desired shade is almost developed. i. Remove cotton and apply lightener near the scalp and to porous ends. Process until entire hair shaft has reached desired level. j. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, and condition. Dry hair with towel or cool dryer per manufacturer’s directions. Examine the scalp for post-service abrasions. k. Proceed with toner application if desired using same ¼" subsections; application from scalp up to porous ends; check color development frequently until desired shade. Activity 9: Have students cut a 2"-long hair sample from the mannequin and save in an envelope; then guide them through the mixing and application of a virgin lightener application to the mannequin. (The hair sample can be used later for tint-back application practice.) Option: Have students perform the retouch application fi rst, so the same mannequin can be reused for student practice in matching levels of decolorization. F. Special Effects Haircoloring and Lightening: see Procedure 19-7 and Supplements 19.7 and 19.8. 1. Refers to any technique that involves the partial lightening or coloring of the hair. a. Frosting: lightening strands of hair over various parts of the head; use cap or foil techniques. b. Tipping: only hair ends are lightened or colored; use cap or freeform techniques. c. Streaking: thicker strands than frosting; more dramatic; use foil or freeform application techniques. 2. Cap technique procedure: review preparation steps with students, then proceed with application. a. Shampoo hair if necessary and dry. b. Comb hair gently; adjust perforated cap over the head. c. Draw strands of hair through holes with crochet hook; prepare coloring or lightening product; put on gloves. d. Apply the color or lightener. e. Cover loosely with a plastic cap if necessary for processing. f. When the hair has processed, remove the plastic cap if present. g. Rinse and shampoo the color or lightener with the perforated cap in place. Towel dry. h. Optional: Apply toner if necessary and process accordingly. i. Style as desired. 3. Foil technique: review preparation steps with students, then proceed with application. a. Apply to dry hair if using permanent color or lighteners. Apply to damp hair if using traditional semipermanent colors. b. Comb the hair gently. Prepare color or lightening product. Apply gloves. c. Slice or weave out the strands from the fi rst parting to be processed. d. Place foil under the hair; grasp fi rmly at the scalp between the thumb and index fi nger. e. Brush color or lightening product onto the hair. f. Fold the foil in half from bottom to top until the ends meet at the scalp area. g. Fold left and right edges of foil halfway; crimp lightly until secure. Clip the foil upward. h. Continue same process until all the areas to be foiled are completed. i. Process according to strand test results. Check color or lightening level. j. When processing is complete, remove foils at the shampoo bowl. k. Rinse, shampoo, and condition according to product directions. l. Style hair as desired. Activity 10: Have students practice special effects techniques on a mannequin.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 451451 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 8. Special Problems and Corrective Haircolor: see textbook Table 19-5 and Supplement 19.9. A. Gray Hair 1. Strands may process differently from one to another. 2. May be resistant and require pre-softening before a service. 3. Yellowed hair: use violet-based colors, highlighting shampoos, temporary rinses, or lightening agents. 4. Determine percentage of gray. 5. Formulating for gray hair a. Gray hair will usually accept level of color applied. b. Lighter shades (level 9 range) may not provide complete coverage. c. Levels 6, 7, and 8 often cover successfully. d. 80 to 100 percent gray: lighter haircolors usually more fl attering. e. Select color that is one level lighter than the darkest natural color. B. Fillers 1. Dual-purpose products that create a color base and equalize excessive porosity. 2. Contain certifi ed colors as pigments; safe to use without a predisposition (patch) test. 3. Available in clear, neutral, and various colors. a. Clear: corrects porosity without affecting color. b. Neutral: contains all three primary colors; minimal saturation and color correction ability; will equalize porosity; pre-oxidized; remain true during application; will be subdued by tint. 4. Applied after pre-lightening and before toner or tint; select color fi ller to match toner or tint. 5. Uses a. Deposit color to faded hair shafts and ends. b. Help hair to hold color and ensure uniform color from scalp to ends. c. Prevent color streaking, off-color results, and dullness. d. Facilitates more uniform color in a tint back to the natural shade. C. Reconditioning Damaged Hair 1. Recondition prior to color services. 2. Signs of damage a. Over-porous condition. b. Brittle or dry. c. Breaks easily or has little to no elasticity. d. Rough or harsh to touch. e. Spongy and mats when wet. f. Rejects or absorbs too much color during a process. 3. Treatment: use products containing lanolin or protein; follow manufacturer’s directions. D. Tint Back to Natural Color 1. Factors: current condition and color of hair, desired result, and original color. 2. Check natural shade of hair next to scalp. 3. Select appropriate fi ller to correspond with tint. 4. Perform strand tests to determine the expected fi nal outcome. Activity 11: Have students perform a strand test and tint-back color application on pre-lightened mannequins using the hair sample taken prior to the lightening process applications. E. Coating Dyes 1. Often the result of over-the-counter haircoloring products used at home. 2. Some may be progressive dyes and require removal before chemical services.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 452452 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 3. Appearance: dry or dull; feels harsh or brittle to the touch; fades to unnatural tones. 4. Test for metallic salts and coating dyes a. In a glass container, mix one ounce (30 milliliters) of 20-volume (6 percent) peroxide and 20 drops of 28 percent ammonia water. b. Cut a few strands of the client’s hair, bind them with tape, and immerse them in the solution for 30 minutes. c. Remove, towel dry, and observe the strand. d. Results analysis 1. Hair dyed with lead will lighten immediately. 2. Hair treated with silver will show no reaction at all. This indicates that other chemicals will not be successful because they will not be able to penetrate the coating. 3. Hair treated with copper will start to boil and will pull apart easily. This hair would be severely damaged or destroyed if other chemicals, such as those found in permanent colors or perm solutions, were applied to it. 4. Hair treated with a coating dye will either not change color or will lighten in spots. Hair in this condition will not receive chemical services easily, and the length of time necessary for penetration may result in further damage to the hair. e. Removing coatings from the hair: may not always be effective the fi rst time; repeat as necessary; perform strand test after treatment to evaluate removal of metallic deposits. 5. Procedure a. Apply 70 percent alcohol to dry hair and allow to stand for 5 minutes. b. Apply color-removing oil to hair and cover with a plastic cap. c. Place under a hot dryer for 30 minutes. d. Saturate with concentrated shampoo, lather for 3 minutes, and rinse; repeat until oil is removed.

9. Coloring Mustaches and Beards A. Products 1. Do not use aniline derivative tints; may cause serious irritation or damage to nostrils and lips. 2. Harmless commercial products are available in a variety of formulations. a. Crayons: waxy sticks available in blond, medium and dark brown, black, and auburn. b. Pomades: formulated specifi cally for coloring mustaches and beards; applied with small brush using a downward stroke until full coverage is achieved. c. Liquids: eyebrow or eyelash tint available in brown or black. B. Procedure 1. Implements and supplies: petroleum jelly, coloring solutions (number one and number two), stain remover, towels, applicator sticks. 2. Place client in comfortable position and place a clean towel across the chest. 3. Wash facial hair with warm, soapy water. 4. Apply petroleum jelly around the hairline of the facial hair. 5. Apply solution number one. Remove the cap and moisten a cotton-tipped applicator in the solution. Touch the tip of the applicator to a towel to remove excess moisture. Apply the solution to the mustache or beard, moistening it completely. Replace the cap on bottle number one. Discard the applicator immediately. Moisten a fresh, cotton-tipped applicator with stain remover and place it on the edge of a towel for future use. Replace the cap on the stain-remover bottle. 6. Apply solution number two to the mustache or beard in the same manner as solution number one. If the skin becomes stained, use stain remover immediately. Replace the cap on bottle number two. 7. Wash the mustache or beard with soap and cool water; remove stains with stain remover.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 453453 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 8. Style mustache or beard as desired. 9. Clean up in the usual manner. Activity 12: Have students practice facial haircoloring on a light-colored bearded mannequin.

10. Haircoloring and Lightening Safety Precautions: see Supplement 19.10. A. Haircoloring 1. Perform a 24-hour patch test before the application of a tint or toner. 2. Examine the scalp before applying a tint. 3. Do not apply tint if abrasions are present on the scalp. 4. Use only sanitized swabs, brushes, applicator bottles, combs, and linens. 5. Always wash your hands before and after serving a client. 6. Do not brush the hair prior to a tint. 7. Do not apply a tint without reading the manufacturer’s directions. 8. Perform a strand test for color and processing results. 9. Choose a shade of tint that harmonizes with the general complexion. 10. Use an applicator bottle or bowl (plastic or glass) for mixing the tint. 11. Do not mix tint before ready for use; discard leftover tint. 12. If required, use the correct shade of color fi ller. 13. Make frequent strand tests until the desired shade is reached. 14. Suggest a reconditioning treatment for tinted hair. 15. Do not apply tint if metallic or compound dye is present. 16. Do not apply tint if a patch test is positive. 17. Give a strand test for the correct color shade before applying tint. 18. Do not use an alkaline or harsh shampoo for tint removal. 19. Do not use water that is too hot for removing tint. 20. Protect the client’s clothing by proper draping. 21. Do not permit tint to come in contact with the client’s eyes. 22. Do not overlap during a tint retouch. 23. Do not neglect to fi ll out a tint record card. 24. Do not apply hydrogen peroxide or any material containing hydrogen peroxide directly over dyes known or believed to contain a metallic salt. Breakage or complete disintegration of the hair may result. 25. Wear protective gloves. B. Hair Lightening 1. Analyze the condition of the hair and suggest reconditioning treatments if required. 2. When working with a cream or paste lightener, it must be the thickness of whipped cream to avoid dripping or running, causing overlapping. 1 3. Apply lightener to resistant areas fi rst. Pick up ⁄8" sections when applying lightener. This will ensure complete coverage. 4. Check strands frequently until the desired shade is reached. 5. After completing the lightener application, check the skin and remove any lightener from these areas. 6. Check the towel around the client’s neck. Lightener on the towel that is allowed to come in contact with the skin will cause irritation. 7. Lightened hair is fragile and requires special care. Use only a very mild shampoo and cool water for rinsing. 8. If a preliminary shampoo is necessary, comb the hair carefully. Avoid irritating the scalp during the shampoo or when combing the hair.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 454454 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 9. Work as rapidly as possible when applying the lightener to produce a uniform shade without streaking. 10. Never allow lightener to stand; use it immediately. 11. Cap all bottles to avoid loss of strength. 12. Keep a completed record card of all lightening treatments.

SUMMARY/REVIEW: What did we learn and do today?

1. Discussed the principles of color theory and their importance to haircoloring. 2. Created a color wheel. 3. Identifi ed the classifi cations of haircolor products and explained their actions on the hair. 4. Discussed and explained the action of lighteners on the hair. 5. Identifi ed the products used in haircoloring and lightening. 6. Demonstrated the correct procedures for applying haircolor and lighteners (instructor). 7. Practiced haircoloring and lightening applications (students). 8. Identifi ed products used to color facial hair. 9. Practiced applying coloring products to facial hair (optional). 10. Discussed and reviewed safety precautions used in haircoloring and lightening.

THEORY REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

1. What is haircoloring? Lightening? Answer: Haircoloring is the science and art of changing the color of the hair. Hair lightening is the partial or total removal of natural pigment or artifi cial color from the hair. 2. List the colors of the color wheel. Identify primary, secondary, and complimentary colors. Answer: Colors of the color wheel: yellow, yellow-green, green, blue-green, blue, blue-violet, violet, red-violet, red, red-orange, orange, and yellow-orange. Primary colors: yellow, blue, and red. Secondary colors: green, violet, and orange. Complementary colors: yellow and violet; blue and orange; and red and green. 3. What are the four main types of haircoloring products? Answer: Temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent 4. What are two types of non-oxidation haircolor products? Oxidation haircolor products? Answer: Non-oxidation color products: temporary and semipermanent color. Oxidation color products: demipermanent and permanent color. 5. What is the difference between semipermanent and demipermanent haircolor products? Answer: True semipermanent haircolor is self-penetrating and does dot require an oxidizer; demipermanent color requires a low-volume developer for color development. 6. List four types of permanent haircolor tints. Answer: Oxidation tints, vegetable tints, metallic or mineral dyes, and compound dyes. 7. What are the volumes of hydrogen peroxide that are used in haircoloring and lightening? Answer: 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume 8. Explain how to test for an allergy to haircolor products. Answer: Perform a patch test on the inside of elbow or behind the ear using the tint product. 9. What is a strand test? Answer: A strand test involves separating out a small section of hair for the purpose of applying the color or lightening product to determine the hair’s reaction to color product, the processing time, and the appearance of the fi nal outcome. 10. What is single-process haircoloring? Double-process haircoloring? Answer: Single-process haircoloring is a process that lightens and colors the hair in a single application; double-process coloring requires hair lightening before the depositing color is applied.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 455455 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 11. Explain the lightening process. Answer: Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. Hair pigment goes through different stages of color as it lightens. The amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has, the strength of the lightening agent, and the length of time it is processed. Hair goes through seven stages of lightening from the darkest to the lightest: a natural head of black hair will go from black to brown, to red, to red-gold, to gold, to yellow, to pale yellow. 12. What products are recommended and used for coloring beards and mustaches? Answer: Crayons, pomades, and liquid tints designed for coloring mustaches and beards

ASSIGNMENTS

1. Read Chapter 20: Nails and Manicuring (if required in the barbering curriculum). 2. Begin Workbook Chapter 20: Nails and Manicuring; due date: ______.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 456456 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM Textbook Chapter Review Questions and Answers Chapter 19: Haircoloring and Lightening

1. Defi ne haircoloring and lightening. Haircoloring is the science and art of changing the color of the hair. Hair lightening is the partial or total removal of natural pigment or artifi cial color from the hair. 2. List the colors of the color wheel. Identify primary, secondary, and complementary colors. Colors of the color wheel are yellow, yellow-green, green, blue-green, blue, blue-violet, violet, red- violet, red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange. Primary colors are yellow, blue, and red. Secondary colors are green, violet, and orange. Complementary colors are yellow and violet; blue and orange; and red and green. 3. List four types of haircoloring products. Temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent 4. Identify the types of non-oxidation and oxidation haircolors. Non-oxidation color products are temporary and semipermanent color. Oxidation color products are demipermanent color, permanent color, and toners. 5. Explain the difference between semipermanent and demipermanent haircolor products. True semipermanent haircolor is self-penetrating and does not require an oxidizer; demipermanent color requires a low-volume developer for color development. 6. List four types of permanent haircolor tints. Oxidation tints, vegetable tints, metallic or mineral dyes, and compound dyes 7. List the volumes of hydrogen peroxide used in haircoloring. 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume; 20 volume is used most often. 8. Explain how to test for sensitivities or allergies to haircolor products. Using the tint product, perform a patch test on the inside of elbow or behind the ear. 9. What is a strand test? A strand test involves separating out a small section of hair for the purpose of applying the color or lightening product to determine the hair’s reaction to the color product, the processing time, and the appearance of the fi nal outcome. 10. What professional products use a single-process application? Double-process application? Single-process applications include temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent color applications and some lightening techniques. Double-process applications are used with lighteners and toners or other tint products that become the second application step in a process. Double-process coloring requires hair lightening before the depositing color is applied. 11. Explain the lightening process. Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. Hair pigment goes through different stages of color as it lightens. The amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has, the strength of the lightening agent, and the length of time it is processed. Hair goes through up to ten stages of lightening from the darkest to the lightest: a natural head of black hair will go from black to brown, to red, to red-gold, to gold, to yellow, to pale yellow. 12. List the products used to color beards and mustaches. Crayons, pomades, and liquid tints designed for coloring mustaches and beards

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 457457 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM Test—Chapter 19 HAIRCOLORING AND LIGHTENING Read each statement carefully. Circle the letter that correctly completes each of the following statements. 1. The science and art of changing the color of the hair is called: a) hair lightening c) haircoloring b) hair dying d) a chemical texture service 2. The partial or total removal of natural pigment or artifi cial color from the hair is called: a) hair lightening c) haircoloring b) hair stripping d) hair dying 3. Factors relevant to a haircoloring or lightening service include all of the following except: a) hair texture and density c) hair cuticle and cortex characteristics b) style of hair d) porosity and natural color of hair 4. Hair that accepts haircoloring products faster and permits darker saturation is considered: a) non-porous c) less porous b) over-porous d) porous 5. Hair with a low porosity level has a cuticle that is: a) tight c) swollen b) damaged d) softened 6. Hair with a low porosity level is considered to be: a) accepting of chemical c) resistant to chemical penetration penetration b) perfect for chemical d) neither a, b, nor c penetration 7. Hair with a high porosity level has all of the following characteristics except: a) a lifted cuticle c) a possibility of taking color quickly b) an ability to resist color d) a possible inability to hold pigments 8. Natural hair color ranges from black to: a) dark blond c) pale blond b) lightest blond d) yellowish blond 9. The ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin helps to determine the: a) hair density c) hair elasticity b) hair texture d) natural hair color 10. The pigment that lies under the natural hair color is called: a) base pigment c) contributing pigment b) base melanin d) undertone

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 458458 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 11. Color is a form of visible: a) energy c) refl ection b) light energy d) defl ection 12. The mixing of dyes and pigment to make other colors is regulated by the: a) laws of color c) laws of haircoloring b) artist’s concepts d) availability of pigments 13. Primary colors include all of the following except: a) red c) green b) yellow d) blue 14. Secondary colors include all of the following except: a) red c) orange b) green d) violet 15. Colors with a predominance of blue are considered: a) warm colors c) warm-toned b) cool-toned d) neutral colors 16. Colors with a predominance of red are considered: a) neutral colors c) warm-toned b) cool-toned d) cool colors 17. Characteristics of the color blue include all of the following except that it: a) is the darkest primary color c) adds depth and darkness to other colors b) is the only cool primary color d) is the only neutral primary color 18. Characteristics of the color red include all of the following except that it: a) is the lightest primary color c) is the medium primary color b) lightens blue-based colors d) darkens yellow colors 19. Characteristics of the color yellow include all of the following except that it: a) is the lightest primary color c) lightens red colors b) lightens blue-based colors d) darkens orange colors 20. Mixing equal amounts of two primary colors will create: a) complementary colors c) a and b b) secondary colors d) neither a nor b 21. Mixing equal amounts of one primary color with one of its secondary colors creates a: a) new secondary color c) tertiary color b) quaternary color d) dark color 22. Orange, green, and violet are examples of: a) primary colors c) tertiary colors b) secondary colors d) quaternary colors

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 459459 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 23. Yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, and yellow-orange are: a) primary colors c) tertiary colors b) secondary colors d) quaternary colors 24. Two colors situated directly across from each other on the color wheel are called: a) complementary colors c) primary colors b) secondary colors d) tertiary colors 25. When two complementary colors are mixed together in equal amounts, they: a) brighten each other c) darken each other b) neutralize each other d) lighten each other 26. The complementary color of blue is: a) red c) green b) orange d) violet 27. The complementary color of red is: a) yellow c) green b) blue d) violet 28. The complementary color of yellow is: a) red c) green b) blue d) violet 29. Two types of colors that are composed of a primary and a secondary color are tertiary and: a) complementary c) white b) quaternary d) basic colors 30. The basic name of a color is its tone or: a) level c) saturation b) place on the color wheel d) hue 31. The terms associated with yellow, red, and orange colors include all of the following except: a) highlighting colors c) warm colors b) cool colors d) brightening colors 32. The terms associated with green, blue, and violet colors include all of the following except: a) drab colors c) warm colors b) cool colors d) ashy colors 33. The degree of lightness or darkness of a color is indicated by its: a) intensity c) tone b) level d) hue 34. The level system is crucial to all of the following except: a) brand-name color choice c) formulating colors b) matching colors d) correcting colors

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 460460 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 35. The degree of concentration or amount of pigment in a color is known as its: a) intensity or saturation c) tone b) level d) hue 36. The predominant tone of a color is called its: a) hue c) base color b) highlight d) level 37. The fi rst step in performing a haircolor service is to identify the: a) color to use c) product to use b) natural level of the hair d) desired color 38. The four classifi cations of haircoloring products include temporary and all of the following except: a) semipermanent c) demipermanent b) permanent d) temporary semipermanent 39. Temporary haircolor products are a type of: a) oxidation color c) non-oxidation color b) penetrating color d) self-penetrating color 40. Temporary haircolor lasts from: a) shampoo to shampoo c) two to four shampoos b) one to two shampoos d) four to six shampoos 41. Characteristics of temporary color products include all of the following except that they: a) have an acidic chemical c) produce subtle color change composition b) have a pH range of 2.0 to 4.5 d) penetrate to the cortex 42. Examples of temporary color products include all of the following except: a) henna c) instant and concentrated color rinses b) color-enhancing shampoos d) color crayons 43. Traditional semipermanent haircoloring products are a type of: a) oxidation color c) non-oxidation color b) deep penetrating color d) non-penetrating color 44. Characteristics of semipermanent color products include all of the following except that they: a) are mildly alkaline c) create only physical change b) have a pH range of 7.0 to 9.0 d) slightly penetrate the cortex 45. Semipermanent haircolor lasts from: a) shampoo to shampoo c) two to four shampoos b) six to eight shampoos d) four to six shampoos 46. Semipermanent haircolor products require a: a) acid test c) strand test b) elasticity test d) patch test

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 461461 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 47. Demipermanent haircoloring products are a type of: a) oxidation color c) non-oxidation color b) progressive color d) self-penetrating color 48. Characteristics of demipermanent color products include all of the following except that they: a) require a developer c) deposit color without lifting b) are used directly from d) last longer than semipermanent the bottle color 49. Demipermanent haircolor products require a: a) porosity test c) strand test b) predisposition test d) elasticity test 50. A haircolor product that can lighten and deposit color in one process is a: a) temporary color c) demipermanent color b) semipermanent color d) permanent color 51. Permanent haircoloring products are a type of: a) oxidation color c) non-oxidation color b) temporary color d) self-penetrating color 52. Characteristics of permanent haircolor products include all of the following except that they: a) are mixed with hydrogen c) deposit and lift peroxide b) do not need retouch d) are penetrating tints applications 53. The pH range of permanent haircolor products is: a) 7.0 to 8.5 c) 9.0 to 10.5 b) 8.0 to 9.0 d) 11.0 to 14.0 54. Permanent haircolor products require a pre-disposition or: a) porosity test c) strand test b) patch test d) elasticity test 55. The best haircoloring product to use for covering gray hair is: a) temporary color c) demipermanent color b) semipermanent color d) permanent color 56. Oxidation tints, vegetable tints, metallic dyes, and compound dyes are classifi cations of: a) temporary color c) demipermanent color b) semipermanent color d) permanent color 57. Aniline derivative tints and penetrating tints are also known as: a) oxidation tints c) temporary tints b) neutralizing tints d) shampoo tints

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 462462 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 58. An example of a vegetable tint is: a) clay tint c) henna b) synthetic plant tint d) mineral tint 59. Metallic or mineral dyes are marketed as: a) color enhancers c) a and b b) progressive colors d) neither a nor b 60. Metallic or mineral dyes combined with a vegetable tint are called: a) combination dyes c) complex dyes b) compound dyes d) convoluted dyes 61. A developer is a/an: a) coloring agent c) oxidizing agent b) toning agent d) stripping agent 62. The primary oxidizing agent used in haircoloring is: a) hydrogen peroxide c) water b) ammonia d) dye remover 63. When used as a developer, hydrogen peroxide has a pH range of: a) 1.0 to 2.0 c) 2.5 to 3.5 b) 1.5 to 2.5 d) 3.5 to 4.0 64. In haircoloring, the strength of hydrogen peroxide is called: a) volume c) lift b) decolorization d) bleaching 65. The higher the volume of hydrogen peroxide, the greater the: a) depositing action c) lifting action b) neutralizing action d) toning action 66. Hydrogen peroxide is available in all of the following forms except: a) dry c) cream b) gel d) liquid 67. Hydrogen peroxide formulations should not come into contact with: a) coloring products c) skin b) hair d) metal 68. An oxidizer that is added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its chemical action is a/an: a) volume enhancer c) activator b) inducer d) de-activator 69. A combination of a bleach formula and hydrogen peroxide produces: a) chemical heat c) no change b) physical heat d) static heat

463

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 463463 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 70. The actions of a lightener include all of the following except: a) decolorizing natural pigment c) dispersing natural pigment b) colorizing natural pigment d) dissolving natural pigment 71. For hair to lighten from the darkest color to the lightest, it may go through up to: a) four stages of lightening c) six stages of lightening b) fi ve stages of lightening d) ten stages of lightening 72. Lighteners area available in all of the following forms except: a) mousse c) oil b) cream d) powder 73. Oil lighteners are usually mixtures of hydrogen peroxide with: a) hair oil tonic c) sulfonated oil b) distilled water d) alcohol 74. An oil lightener that removes pigment without adding color tone is a: a) gold oil lightener c) silver oil lightener b) neutral oil lightener d) drab oil lightener 75. The natural pigment that remains in the hair after lightening is called: a) foundation color c) base color b) underlying pigment d) underlying color 76. A haircoloring product that is applied to pre-lightened hair to achieve the desired shade is a: a) toner c) dye remover b) lightener d) dye solvent 77. Before application, toners require a: a) porosity test c) strand test b) patch test d) elasticity test 78. The removal of coloring agents is facilitated by: a) toners c) dye removers b) lighteners d) fi llers 79. Haircoloring products with the ability to create a color base and equalize porosity are: a) toners c) dye removers b) lighteners d) fi llers 80. Stain removers are prepared solutions that: a) remove tint from the skin c) remove color from the hair b) remove lightener from d) remove developer from the hair the hair 81. A patch test is also known as a: a) color test c) disposition test b) predisposition test d) strand test

464

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 464464 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 82. Patch tests to determine allergies to aniline derivative tints should be performed: a) 1 to 2 hours before coloring c) 24 to 48 hours before coloring b) 4 to 6 hours before coloring d) one week before coloring 83. A strand test is performed to determine all of the following except: a) reaction of hair to product c) processing time b) application method d) color results 84. Equal parts of a prepared haircolor product and shampoo is called a: a) color rinse c) toner b) tint back d) soap cap 85. The process of returning a client to his or her natural hair color is called a: a) color rinse c) tint back b) color remover d) soap cap 86. The application of haircolor to hair that has not been previously colored is called a: a) virgin application c) tint-back application b) retouch application d) neither a, b, nor c 87. A process that blends previously colored or lightened hair with new growth is a: a) virgin application c) tint-back application b) retouch application d) soap cap 88. Processes that lighten and deposit color in the hair in a single application include all of the following except: a) one-step coloring c) one-step tinting b) single-application coloring d) lightener and toner 89. Lightening and coloring actions are controlled independently during a/an: a) one-step coloring c) one-step tinting b) double-application process d) virgin application 90. Lightening products that may be used on the scalp are: a) powder and oil lighteners c) cream and oil lighteners b) cream and powder lighteners d) any type of lightening product 91. Characteristics of powder lighteners include all of the following except that they: a) are on-the-scalp lighteners c) should not be used for retouch applications b) are off-the-scalp lighteners d) create blonding effects 92. The lightener generally used in a lightener retouch is a/an: a) powder lightener c) oil lightener b) cream lightener d) emollient lightener 93. Special effects haircoloring and lightening include all of the following except: a) frosting c) tipping b) streaking d) scrunching

465

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 465465 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM 94. Special effects application methods include all of the following except: a) foils c) cap b) full coverage d) freeform 95. Characteristics of gray hair include all of the following except that it: a) does not require analysis c) may be resistant to color b) may require pre-softening d) is measured in percentages 96. Before tinting or lightening damaged hair, the hair should receive a: a) shampoo treatment c) reconditioning treatment b) haircut service d) clarifying treatment 97. Virgin applications of semipermanent or demipermanent color products require application from the: a) scalp through new growth c) scalp to the ends b) mid-shaft to the ends d) neither a, b, or c 98. An aniline derivative tint should never be used for coloring: a) a mustache or beard c) virgin hair b) retouch applications d) gray hair 99. A virgin application with permanent color is applied fi rst to the: a) scalp area c) porous ends b) mid-shaft d) entire hair shaft 100. The process of treating resistant hair for better color penetration is called: a) preconditioning c) preparation b) pre-expansion d) pre-softening

466

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 466466 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM Answer Key—Chapter 19 HAIRCOLORING AND LIGHTENING

1. c 21. c 41. d 61. c 81. b 2. a 22. b 42. a 62. a 82. c 3. b 23. c 43. c 63. d 83. b 4. d 24. a 44. c 64. a 84. d 5. a 25. b 45. b 65. c 85. c 6. c 26. b 46. d 66. b 86. a 7. b 27. c 47. a 67. d 87. b 8. b 28. d 48. b 68. c 88. d 9. d 29. a 49. b 69. a 89. b 10. c 30. d 50. d 70. b 90. c 11. b 31. b 51. a 71. d 91. a 12. a 32. c 52. b 72. a 92. b 13. c 33. b 53. c 73. c 93. d 14. a 34. a 54. b 74. b 94. b 15. b 35. a 55. d 75. b 95. a 16. c 36. c 56. d 76. a 96. c 17. d 37. b 57. a 77. b 97. c 18. a 38. d 58. c 78. c 98. a 19. d 39. c 59. b 79. d 99. b 20. b 40. a 60. b 80. a 100. d

467

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 467467 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM Supplement 19.0 HAIRCOLOR CATEGORIES AND THEIR USES

Category Uses

Temporary color Some products create fun, bold results that easily shampoo from the hair Others neutralize yellow tones or impart subtle hues

Semipermanent color Introduces a client to haircolor services Adds subtle color results Tones prelightened hair

Demipermanent color Blends gray hair Enhances natural color Tones prelightened hair Refreshes faded color Filler in color correction

Permanent hair color Changes existing haircolor Covers gray Creates bright or natural-looking hair color changes

468

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 468468 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM Supplement 19.1 TEMPORARY COLOR RINSE PROCEDURE

Apply color rinse at the shampoo bowl starting at Blend color rinse through hair then, blot excess. the hairline.

Style the hair.

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997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 469469 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:02:43:02 PMPM Supplement 19.1 (continued)

I. Implements and Materials: temporary color product, color chart, applicator bottle (optional), waterproof cape, towels, protective gloves, shampoo, record card, timer, and comb.

II. Preparation If the client is to receive a haircut, perform the cut prior to a color rinse application. 1. Assemble all necessary supplies. 2. Prepare the client. Protect the clothing with a waterproof cape and a towel. 3. Examine the client’s scalp and hair. 4. Select the desired shade of color rinse. 5. Perform a strand test.

III. Procedure for Temporary Color Rinse Application 1. Shampoo, rinse, and towel-blot hair. Excess moisture must be removed to prevent diluting the color. Put on gloves. 2. With the client reclined at the shampoo bowl, apply the color from the hairline through and around the entire head. 3. Use the comb to blend the color, applying more as necessary for even coverage. 4. Do not rinse product. Towel-blot excess. 5. Proceed with styling.

IV. Cleanup and Disinfection 1. Discard all disposable supplies. 2. Close and wipe off containers and store properly. 3. Sanitize implements, cape, and work area. 4. Wash hands. 5. Record results on client record card.

470

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 470470 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:03:43:03 PMPM Supplement 19.2 FORMULA FOR SELECTING COLOR LEVEL WHEN TINTING LIGHTER THAN NATURAL HAIR COLOR

1.Identify the desired level 6

2.Identify the natural level – 4

3.Subtract the natural level from the desired level 2

4.Add the level difference to the desired level +6

5.Total is the level of color needed 8

471

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 471471 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:03:43:03 PMPM Supplement 19.3 SINGLE-PROCESS COLOR APPLICATION FOR VIRGIN HAIR

Part hair into four sections. Part off ¼" subsections and apply Check color development. When color to the mid shaft area. Stay at desired color is reached, apply least ½" from the scalp and do not remaining product to hair at the apply to the porous ends. scalp.

Pull the color through to the hair Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, and ends. condition. Remove stains as necessary.

472

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 472472 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:03:43:03 PMPM Supplement 19.3 (continued)

473

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 473473 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:05:43:05 PMPM Supplement 19.4 SINGLE-PROCESS COLOR RETOUCH

To retouch new hair growth, follow the same preparation as for coloring virgin hair. Refer to the client record card for correct color selection and other data. 1. Apply the tint first to new growth at sideburns, temples, and nape area.

1 2. Apply the tint to new growth in /4" strands. Do not overlap. Check frequently for color development. 3. When color has almost developed, dilute the remaining tint by adding a mild shampoo or warm water. Apply and gently work the mixture through the hair with the fingertips. Comb and blend from the scalp to the hair ends for even distribution. 4. Process for the required time. Rinse with warm water to remove excess color. 5. Use an acid-balanced shampoo and rinse thoroughly. 6. Dry and comb, or style hair as desired. 7. Remove color stains, if necessary. 8. Fill out a record card. 9. Clean up in the usual manner.

474

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 474474 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:06:43:06 PMPM Supplement 19.5 STEP 1: LIGHTENING VIRGIN HAIR PROCEDURE

Part off 1/8 inch subsections and apply lightener ½ from the Apply to top and underside of the subsection and place a scalp up to, but not through, the porous ends. strip of cotton along the part lines to prevent seepage to the scalp area.

Check lightening action by misting as for a strand test about 15 Remove cotton from scalp area and apply lightener near the minutes before the completion of the time required. If the level scalp. is not light enough, reapply the mixture. 475

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 475475 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:06:43:06 PMPM Supplement 19.5 (continued)

Apply lightening product to the porous ends.

I. Implements and Materials: lightener product, developer, color chart, applicator bottle or brush/bowl, shampoo cape, towels, gloves, shampoo/conditioner, comb, clips, cotton, protective cream, record card, and timer.

II. Preparation 1. Perform a preliminary patch test 24 hours before the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. 2. Perform client consultation and record results on client record card. 3. Drape client and apply protective cream. 4. Perform a strand test and record the results.

III. Procedure for Lightening Virgin Hair 1. Divide dry hair into four sections. 2. Apply protective cream around hairline. Put on gloves. 3. Prepare lightening formula. Use either bottle or brush application method. 4. Begin in the section where the hair is most resistant or where there will be the most color change.

476

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 476476 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:08:43:08 PMPM Supplement 19.5 (continued)

5. Part off 1/8" inch subsections and apply lightener ½" from the scalp up to, but not through, the porous ends. Apply to top and underside of the subsection and place a strip of cotton along the part lines to prevent seepage to the scalp area. 6. Apply lightener to other sections in the same manner. Keep lightener moist with repeated applications if necessary. Do no comb the lightener through the hair. 7. Process according to the strand test results and manufacturer’s directions. Check lightening action by misting as for a strand test about 15 minutes before the completion of the time required. If the level is not light enough, reapply the mixture and continue testing frequently until the desired shade is almost developed. 8. Remove cotton from scalp area and apply lightener near the scalp. Apply lightening product to the porous ends. Process until the entire hair shaft has reached the desired level. 9. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, and condition. Dry the hair with a towel or under a cool dryer per manufacturer’s directions. Examine the scalp for abrasions. 10. Proceed with toner application if desired.

IV. Cleanup and Disinfection 1. Discard all disposable supplies. 2. Close and wipe off containers and store properly. 3. Sanitize implements and tools, cape, and work area. 4. Wash hands. 5. Record results on client record card.

477

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 477477 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:08:43:08 PMPM Supplement 19.6 STEP 2: TONER APPLICATION PROCEDURE

I. Implements and Materials: toner product, developer, color chart, applicator bottle or brush/bowl, shampoo cape, towels, gloves, shampoo/conditioner, comb, clips, cotton, protective cream, record card, and timer.

II. Preparation 1. Perform a preliminary patch test 24 hours before the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. 2. Perform client consultation and record results on client record card. 3. Drape client. 4. Pre-lighten the hair to the desired level. 5. Shampoo, rinse, condition, and towel-dry the hair. 6. Perform a strand test and record the results.

III. Procedure for Toner Application 1. Divide dry hair into four sections. 2. Apply protective cream around hairline. Put on gloves. 3. If using an oxidative toner, mix the toner and developer. Use either bottle or brush application method. 4. Begin in the crown section and part off ¼" subsections. Apply toner from the scalp up to, but not through, the porous ends. Apply to other sections. 5. Process according to the strand test results and manufacturer’s directions. Check toning action by misting as for a strand test. If proper color development has oc- curred, work the toner through the ends of the hair. 6. When the desired color has been reached, add water and massage toner into a lather. 7. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, and condition. Remove any stains as necessary. 8. Style as desired.

478

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 478478 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:08:43:08 PMPM Supplement 19.7 CAP TECHNIQUE PROCEDURE

Draw the strands of hair through the holes with crochet hook.

479

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 479479 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:08:43:08 PMPM Supplement 19.8 FOIL TECHNIQUE PROCEDURE

Comb the hair gently and part-off Slice out or weave the strands to be Place the foil under the hair and grasp subsection. processed. it fi rmly at the scalp between the thumb and index fi nger.

Brush lightening product onto the hair. Fold the foil in half from bottom to top. Fold the left and right edges of the foil. Do not crimp tightly.

Process according to strand test results. Check lightening level.

480

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 480480 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:09:43:09 PMPM Supplement 19.8 (continued)

1. Perform a preliminary patch test 24 hours before the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. 2. Perform client consultation and record results on client record card. 3. Drape client. 4. Perform a strand test and record the results. 5. Shampoo and dry the hair if using permanent color or lighteners. Do not dry the hair if using traditional semi-permanent colors. 6. Comb the hair gently. Prepare color or lightening product. Put on gloves. 7. Slice out or weave the strands from the first parting to be processed. 8. Place the foil under the hair and grasp it firmly at the scalp between the thumb and index finger. 9. Brush color or lightening product onto the hair (Figure 19-44). 10. Fold the foil in half from bottom to top until the ends meet at the scalp area. 11. Fold the left and right edges of the foil halfway and crimp lightly until secure. Clip the foil upward. 12. Continue the same process until all the areas to be foiled are completed. 13. Process according to strand test results. Check color or lightening level. 14. When processing is complete, remove foils at the shampoo bowl. 15. Rinse, shampoo, and condition according to product directions. 16. Style hair as desired. 17. Perform clean-up and sanitation procedures.

NOTE: When performing the foil technique over the entire head, the sequence of application should be: lower crown, back, sides, top, and front.

481

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 481481 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:10:43:10 PMPM Supplement 19.9 DETERMINING PERCENTAGES AND FORMULATING FOR GRAY HAIR

Percentage of Gray Characteristics Formulation Semi-permanent Permanent 90-100% Virtually no pigment; white Desired level Desired level 70-90% Mostly non-pigmented Equal parts: desired level & Two parts desired level & one level lighter one part level lighter 50-70% More gray than pigmented One level lighter than Equal parts: desired level & desired level lighter level 30-50% More pigmented than gray Equal parts: one level Two parts lighter level & lighter & two levels lighter one part desired level 10-30% Mostly pigmented. Two levels lighter than One level lighter desired color

482

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 482482 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:10:43:10 PMPM Supplement 19.10 HAIRCOLORING AND LIGHTENING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Haircoloring

1. Perform a 24-hour patch test before the application of a tint or toner.

2. Examine the scalp before applying a tint.

3. Do not apply tint if abrasions are present on the scalp.

4. Use only sanitized swabs, brushes, applicator bottles, combs, and linens.

5. Always wash your hands before and after serving a client.

6. Do not brush the hair prior to a tint.

7. Do not apply a tint without reading the manufacturer's directions.

8. Perform a strand test for color, breakage, and/or hair discoloration. 9. Choose a shade of tint that harmonizes with the general complexion. 10. Use an applicator bottle or bowl (plastic or glass) for mixing the tint. 11. Do not mix tint before ready for use; discard leftover tint. 12. If required, use the correct shade of color filler. 13. Make frequent strand tests until the desired shade is reached. 14. Suggest a reconditioning treatment for tinted hair. 15. Do not apply tint if metallic or compound dye is present. 16. Do not apply tint if a patch test is positive. 17. Give a strand test for the correct color shade before applying tint. 18. Do not use an alkaline or harsh shampoo for tint removal. 19. Do not use water that is too hot for removing tint. 20. Protect the client's clothing by proper draping. 21. Do not permit tint to come in contact with the client's eyes. 22. Do not overlap during a tint retouch. 23. Do not neglect to fill out a tint record card. 24. Do not apply hydrogen peroxide or any material containing hydrogen peroxide directly over dyes known or believed to contain a metallic salt. Breakage or complete disintegration of the hair may result. 25. Wear protective gloves.

483

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 483483 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:10:43:10 PMPM Supplement 19.10 (continued)

Hair Lightening

1. Analyze the condition of the hair and suggest reconditioning treatments, if required. 2. When working with a cream or paste lightener, it must be the thickness of whipped cream to avoid dripping or running, causing overlapping.

1 3. Apply lightener to resistant areas first. Pick up /8" sections when applying lightener. This will ensure complete coverage. 4. Check strands frequently until the desired shade is reached. 5. After completing the lightener application, check the skin and remove any lightener from these areas. 6. Check the towel around the client's neck. Lightener on the towel that is allowed to come in contact with the skin will cause irritation. 7. Lightened hair is fragile and requires special care. Use only a very mild shampoo and cool water for rinsing. 8. If a preliminary shampoo is necessary, comb the hair carefully. Avoid irritating the scalp during the shampoo or when combing the hair. 9. Work as rapidly as possible when applying the lightener to produce a uniform shade without streaking. 10. Never allow lightener to stand; use it immediately. 11. Cap all bottles to avoid loss of strength. 12. Keep a completed record card of all lightening treatments.

484

997147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd7147_19_ch19_p440-484.indd 484484 55/31/10/31/10 11:43:11:43:11 PMPM