DOMENICA COOKS SAVORY EASTER TORTES

GABRIELLA’S PIZZA RUSTICA

As with so many Italian recipes, pizza rustica varies from region to region, from town to town and from cook to cook. It typically contains the ingredients of spring—eggs and fresh cheese— and ingredients from the pantry, such as prosciutto or salami. It goes by different names, depending on where you are from, and religious symbolism is usually associated with it. Ada Boni’s all-encompassing cookbook on Italian cuisine, “Il Talismano della Felicita” (The Talisman ofHhappiness), first published in 1928, contains four recipes for pizza rustica, with different doughs and fillings.

My mother’s pizza rustica is somewhat typical of the Abruzzo region, in central Italy, where she grew up. Some Abruzzese variations call for sweet pastry dough—combining sweet dough with a savory filling is a centuries-old practice in Italian cuisine. But I prefer my mom’s, which omits the sugar and instead uses a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. The acidity balances the richer ingredients in the butter-based dough and in the filling, which consists of diced prosciutto, mortadella and soppressata and a mix of six cheeses.

Makes one 9- or 10-inch round torte; or one 8- by 12-inch or 9- by 13-inch rectangular torte (note that you will need to make extra dough for a rectangular torte; see below)

Ingredients

For the pastry (9- or 10-inch round pan) 2 1/2 cups (325 g; 11.5 oz) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface 1/2 cup (1 stick; 113 g; 4 oz) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 1/4 teaspoon fine salt 2 large eggs 4 to 5 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Pastry for 8- by 12-inch or 9- by 13-inch torte 3 3/4 cups (480 g; 16 oz) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks; 170 g; 6 oz) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 1/2 teaspoon fine salt 3 large eggs 6 to 8 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

For the filling 1 pound (455 g) fresh ricotta 1 pound (455 g) fresh cheese such as “basket” cheese (see NOTES); or 8 ounces Greek feta and 8 additional ounces (227 g) fresh ricotta 8 ounces (227 g) fresh mozzarella, diced 1 cup (4 ounces; 113 g) shredded sharp aged provolone cheese, such as Auricchio 1 1/2 cups (135 g; 5 oz) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/2 cup (45 g; 1.6 oz) freshly grated pecorino Romano 4 ounces (113 g) mortadella, cut into small dice (about 2/3 cup) 4 ounces (113 g. prosciutto di Parma, cut into small dice (about 2/3 cup) 4 ounces (113 g) soppressata, cut into small dice (about 2/3 cup) Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 1/4 cup (60 ml) whole milk

To assemble Butter for the pan Unbleached all-purpose flour for the work surface 1 egg, lightly beaten with 2 tablespoons water

Instructions

Dough 1. In the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the flour, butter and salt and pulse briefly until combined. Add the eggs and the lemon juice and pulse just until a ball of dough begins to form, fewer than 10 seconds.

2. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and pat it into a disk. Do not knead or overmix. Wrap the disk tightly in reusable or plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed. Bring it to slightly cooler than room temperature before using (see NOTES).

Filling 1. Using a sturdy spoon, a fork, or your fingers, crumble the basket cheese into a large bowl. Add the mozzarella, ricotta, provolone, Parmigiano and pecorino cheeses. Fold everything together with a wooden spoon or sturdy spatula. Add the mortadella, prosciutto and soppressata and mix again. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.

2. Pour the beaten eggs over the mixture and stir until thoroughly combined. The filling should be dense and thick enough to stand a spatula or wooden spoon in, but it should not be so thick that you can’t incorporate the ingredients. Add the milk and mix well. Cover the filling and set aside (see NOTES).

Assembly 1. Heat the oven to 375° F (190° C).

2. Generously butter a round or rectangular baking pan with sides at least 2 inches high (a springform pan makes removing the torte easier).

3. Cut the dough into 2 portions, one slightly larger than the other. Rewrap the smaller portion and set aside. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the larger portion of dough into a rectangle or circle, depending on the shape of your pan, so that it is large enough to cover the bottom and sides of the pan with some overhang. The dough should be about 1/4-inch thick or slightly thicker. Press the dough into the pan. Spoon the filling into the pan and smooth out the top.

4. Roll out the remaining portion of dough and drape it over the filling. Gently press it directly against the surface of the filling. Trim the top and bottom crusts so that only 1 inch of overhang remains, then press them together to seal. Roll the overhang in toward the center of the dough to form an edge. Continue to roll the edge until you have gone all the way around the pan. Press down on the rolled edge with the tines of a fork to seal and form a decorative crust. If desired, use leftover dough to cut out shapes (I use cookie cutters to make baby chicks and eggs at Easter) and arrange them on top of the pie, using a little of the egg mixed with water to help them adhere. Using a sharp knife, cut several slits in the top of the torte. Lightly brush the top crust surface with egg wash.

5. Bake for 45 to 60 minutes, until the top is deeply golden. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool for 20 to 30 minutes. If using a rectangular or non-springform pan, carefully invert the torte onto a second rack or a cutting board, and then re-invert it onto the first rack. If using a springform pan, remove the ring. Invert the torte and remove the bottom of the pan. Re-invert the torte and leave it on the rack to cool further. To serve, cut the torte into slices or wedges. Serve warm, at room temperature or cold.

NOTES Basket cheese is usually sold in 2-pound plastic baskets in the U.S. It is a fresh cheese that is firmer than ricotta. Basket cheese can be hard to find but is usually available at Easter time at Italian delis and gourmet markets. If you can’t find basket cheese, use imported Greek feta. In this case you will most likely not need to add salt to the filling.

The pastry dough may be made and stored, tightly wrapped in plastic, in the refrigerator, a day in advance, or frozen for up to 1 month. Bring the dough to slightly cooler than room temperature before rolling it out.

To make enough pastry to cover a 9-by 13-inch rectangular pan, use these quantities:3 3/4 cups

The filling may be made up to a day in advance and kept, in a tightly lidded container, in the refrigerator.

The pizza rustica may be baked in advance, wrapped tightly in plastic, and stored in the refrigerator for 3 days, or frozen for up to 1 month. Reheat it, uncovered, in a moderate oven (350° F) until completely warmed through.