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READY FOR NEW STYLES? EUROPE’S HOT SPOTS FOR CREATIVE COOL

EUROPE HAS ALWAYS BEEN IRRESISTIBLE TO SHOPPERS, BUT BEYOND THE BIG BRANDS AND FAMOUS STREETS OF SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS CITIES ARE LESSER-KNOWN DISTRICTS THAT ARE INSPIRING A NEW GENERATION OF EUROPEAN CREATIVITY.

Andy Round offers fresh insight on Paris, Milan and Helsinki and explores the city neighbourhoods that are inspiring a new European cultural renaissance – from art and design to fashion and furniture.

Three very different destinations, but with one common thread: each city is perfect for discovering Europe’s freshest creative talent.

USEFUL WEBSITES http://europa.eu/wonder-is-all-around www.visiteurope.com LIVING ALTERNATIVE TO THEITALIAN CITY’SBIG BRAND SUPERSTREETS. MILAN’S VIBRANTBRERADISTRICTOFFERS ANIMMACULATELY GROOMED AVD MODA LA VIDA

MILAN of hisown distinctive face. own images collection, humorouspopart featuring for JilSander,brand but stillhastimeto create his become a Hehas just through images on his smartphone. café, corner At a Brera Ludovico Loffreda swipes Too much,’ shesays. Greta Torresi. ‘How much doIspendonclothes? show hernext Clutching invite student isfashion avenuetree-lined Kurfürstendamm in Germany. Brussels’ sleek Sablon square, Belgium; or Berlin’s the boutique streets of London’s Notting Hill, UK; expensive European heels that would clatter along Brera’s polishedcobbled thesame streetsattract toMilanfor Fashion grimage Week. Anyone with a a snatched ‘Ciao, seeyou inParis’. just melt into a have to moveThe photographers fast, but the girls cost theGDPofsmallcountry. able herdjostle past, clothesthat probably wearing fashion asthe overalls in grin workers Construction fully cultivatedastheirhaircuts. withcases,is armed ascare- attitude an and cameras the stylists, from the bystanders. the buyers Everyone At this timeofyear it is hard to tell the models from from anothercatwalkshow. capture waif-thinmodelswithendlesslegsemerging crowdedas they streets of Brera, whirring cameras isstumbling backwards downand thepaparazzi the It isthelastday ofMilanFashion Week inSeptember designer for an international mensweardesigner for an international

human sea of prêt-à-porter with human sea ofprêt-à-porter passion for fashion makes the pil- - Plissè Srl. with women’s new her launched Smarteez brand design for Mila Schön Concept, but in 2011 also Forghieri, 32,designer Marta istheheadof winning It is a business.’Milan isgoodfor learning Japan, isgoodfor SouthKorea…Paris couture, but school there were students from Poland, Spain, panies and people come for that,’ he says. ‘In my schools here reinforce relationships with big com important? ‘Why are Milan and Brera The fashion HelenaChristensen. Danish supermodel award winning he designed recently for lingerie Duomo.He pauses over his phone to show the than the glistening marble ofMilan’sis brighter Ludovico old and his fashionfuture is just 24 years business that can be precarious. Award- - >> Anyone with a passion for fashion makes Dr Luca Ghirardosi, fashion coordinator the pilgrimage to Milan at the famous Academy of Brera, is nurturing for Fashion Week. the next generation of designers.

She knows the formula for fashion success, but says getting money for shows, convincing buyers, getting into shops, and meeting orders can be challenging for young companies. Still, it depends how you define success. ‘It’s a passion for me. I love what I do,’ asserts Marta.

FLORESCENT NAIL VARNISH ‘I think Milan has lost a lot of its spontaneity, with too many huge brands that you can see in any city,’ Stefano Coletti is another dedicated follower of he says. ‘But students come from all over the world fashion. The photographer, blogger for the Italian to our courses in Brera and their passion will ensure version of Vogue, film producer and founder of the it continues to be a centre for creativity.’ fashion blog thestreetfashion5xpro often visits Brera for inspiration. Tapping his tablet computer he reveals how fluorescent nail varnish splashed onto pairs of shorts can evolve into an unlikely street The best events found a warm welcome in Brera’s deconstructed cabinet interior is styled from shav- trend within days. secret courtyards. ings takes pride of place next to Philippe Starck chairs and Giulia Battisti prism tables. ‘Real fashion is on the streets. It’s the combination ‘The fair is about experiencing designs, not just see- of vintage with an obvious big brand name. It’s the ing them online,’ says Sergio Riga, owner of Brera’s Five minutes away is the showroom of an Italian fur- pink hair style that ends up on the catwalk.’ Dilmos design store. ‘It’s about connecting with peo- niture icon Edra and 70-year-old Massimo Morozzi, ple and meeting young designers face to face.’ the company’s art director. ‘I have a problem,’ grins But Brera is not just about fashion. Each year thou- the man who created concept cars for a Japanese sands fly into the city for the world’s biggest design Recent young designer additions to the store in car company and whose designs are exhibited in fair, the annual ‘Salone Internazionale del Mobile’. clude work by 24-year-old Adrien Petrucci, whose New York’s Museum of Modern Art. ‘Real fashion is on the streets. It’s the combination of vintage with an obvious big brand name. It’s the pink DESIGN CLASSIC A short walk from Brera is Milan’s Triennale, the first museum to be dedicated hair style that ends up on the catwalk.’ to Italian design. ‘Design follows social change and influences it,’ says director Silvana Annicchiarico. ‘So we change our exhibitions entirely every year because design is always changing. It’s our job to tell the story so far.’

‘I’m more interested in new techniques than the end BESPOKE PERFUMERY product. See this rosewood table? The white flashes? These are parts of wood that are usually thrown Spend more time (ideally using a Brera Design away. Here we made them into something unique.’ District map) and you will discover stores selling antique chairs upholstered in bright contemporary There is a lot of creativity to savour in Brera. Just walk fabrics, independent outlets selling affordable fash- the streets with Marco Torrani, president of Brera ions from around Europe, galleries featuring artwork Design District, an initiative created to promote the from Germany, Italy, France and Holland and even area’s design stores. a bespoke perfumery selling scents that were created for Catherine de Medici. Within a couple of hours you will find yourself lost among outlets selling fantasy furniture by one of Brera’s design legacy started centuries ago. ‘For France’s biggest names, an international brand show- hundreds of years Brera was a base for artisans, casing futuristic kitchens and vintage stores piled high many of whom were involved in the construction of with 1950s pinball machines and velvet casino chairs. Milan’s Duomo,’ says Marco.

ARTISTIC INSPIRATION

The Pinacoteca museum gives Brera its artistic soul thanks to seminal artworks such as Caravaggio’s BRERA USEFUL WEBSITES painting from 1606 ‘Supper at Emmaus’. ‘But for me this is the most important,’ says curator Emanuela breradesigndistrict.it (Italian) www.triennale.org/en/ (English, Italian) Daffra, standing in front of ‘The Dead Christ’ painted by Andrea Mantegna in the late 15th century. ‘It’s like nothing of its time. It’s three-dimensional. The paleness demands contemplation and the http://pinacotecabrera.org/en/ (Italian) www.turismo.milano.it/wps/portal/tur/en (Italian, English, Chinese) wounds look frighteningly fresh.’ FRENCH CAPITAL’S ARTISTIC MOVEMENT ANDA HEAVEN FORHIPSTERS. THE PARISIAN DISTRICTOFBELLEVILLE ISAT THE CUTTING EDGE OFTHE ART WITH SOUL

PARIS lutionary past,lutionary says Pommier, Loïs for coordinator Belle isthe latest chapter in This influxofnewartists ‘I can make a lotofnoisehereinpeace,’ shelaughs. have reputation. sculpted her own international ishes a stone’sintotheorganic, shapesthat colours Next door, Suzel Galiachips, drills, hacksandpol- creative comfort. in completethat appear as light as sea coral drils hacks 300 Arnaud workshop, In a hiddenBellevillecourtyard Catherine edge. buting gentrified stillwithan appealinggritty Europeancreative district, slowlytemporary becom- a of epitome the in is Užupis Vilnius,Belleville the ‘independent’ neighbourhood artists’ ‘state’ of an individualismthatwould notlookoutofplacein ofChristianshavn and Copenhagen bohemiandistrict a Offering I can make peoplesmile.’ says ofhissculptures. ‘I can’t paint, Ican’t draw, but ‘I the carcasses of clocks and endless bric-a-brac. lieamong whereskeletons ofmachinery workshop of thesekinetic creations is Laurent’s The birthplace attheflickofa magneticswitch.gling caterpillars - robotically into a wrig and black iron filings transform sway onknives insteadoflegs, writhe steelbranches Belleville homeofLaurent Debraux. Wobbly stools Wild and wonderful things cometo life inthe like ville’s history oflow-income tenantsandrevoville’s- history to take things apart. Give them new life,’ he REVOLUTIONARY PAST fierce independence reminiscent of the kg of alabaster into fragile ten- kg of alabaster into fragile con- village feel here. Itdoesn’tfeel like Paris.’ a kimono. Belleville isnow hometoher. ‘I love the time in Tokyo, bag from Japanandmadeherfirst designer Hélène Eber-SpecherAccessories spent andlanes.’side feel ofthepark - The rentswere affordable andIliked thecountry ago. atBelleville20years who arrived ‘Why, here? Lopez Carlos andCatalan charcoalartist Barnier include painter Philippe Those opening their doors and have inspiredsimilarevents fromBenintoBrazil. studios, up to 15 now attract intheir Belleville, wherethepublic canvisitartists De Annual opendoorevents by D’Artistes Ateliers here now thereare300,’ hesays. creativity to thrive. ‘In 1990therewere 100artists architecture.ual words, other In perfect the placefor hidden lanes, and fiercely individ changing street art Stroll aroundwithLoïsandhewillreveal Belleville’s their creative spacesfromdevelopment. tours,through events toprotect campaigns and was set up DeBelleville. D’Artistes Ateliers The organisation Carlotti. was department. It’s made fromhair extensions and from Lady Gaga’slike a yeti on the run costume opposite a dress that looks parrot is a caged fabric StéphanieCoudert, there In theshopofcouturier created by Coudert for French singer Barbara for FrenchsingerBarbara created by Coudert in 1990 to support independent artists independent artists in 1990 to support FABRIC PARROT 000 visitors every year every 000 visitors - >> Belleville is the epitome of a contemporary European creative district, slowly becoming gentrified but still with an appealing gritty edge.

‘If I had a place in the west of the city it would be it was edgy,’ grins 25-year-old Capucine Piot, founder cramped and I would have to focus on being com- of über popular ‘beauty addict’ blog babillages.net mercial,’ she says. ‘I don’t want the weight of com- and a former online editor for French Vogue. merce on my shoulders, I want creative focus. Also, as a child I spent time in Iran and Iraq and I love the ‘But I come for street style,’ she says. ‘Hipsters here HOT FAVORITE immigrant dialects that add personality to Belleville.’ might adapt fashions that seem unbelievable at first, but that look will have taken a long time to get right. Belleville may change its style as fast as its street art, but there are plenty of Indeed, immigration gives Belleville its distinctive Sometimes I can’t believe the styles I see. Then independent creatives nearby worth discovering. character. Home to Greeks, Jews and Armenians, fol- months later it’s everywhere.’ lowed by Africans, its large China town is vibrant tes- > Centre Commercial offers vintage furniture, art and ethically-sourced fash- timony to the district’s latest arrivals. ‘I think the One trend that’s gaining momentum is the Biennale ions at 2 Rue de Marseille, while four doors away Medecine Douce crafts character of Belleville is always changing, but its de Belleville ‘Since 2010 our aim has been to show- jewellery that combines gems with non-traditional materials. sense of community is an important constant,’ says case international and local talent,’ says curator Angénic Agnero, founder of walking tour company Patrice Joly. ‘We’ve put the district on the interna- > Inspired by South of France summers and bright 1930s imagery, Chichi Paris Par Rues Méconnues. tional creative map. The Biennale in Venice cost 10 Paris is an elegant new accessories brand created by the dynamic design duo million euros, but we did this for fifty-thousand. of Tristan Lahoz and Anne-Line Desrousseaux. It’s a sentiment repeated by every visitor. ‘I was the Belleville might not have a lot of money, but we have sort of baby that wore designer clothes and my par- a lot of passion.’ > Fashion and food are served up in equally generous portions at Carmen ents used to tell me not to come to Belleville because Ragosta’s chic and cheerful atelier/bistro at 8 Rue de la Grange aux Belles. TALES FROM THE RIVERBANK

‘Only 20 have been made and they sell for 12 000 US dollars,’ says designer Yiqing Yin, revealing a dramatic fur coat, its micro-pleated layers cut into a striking sculpture. ‘I like to take traditional skills and give them a contemporary twist,’ she says.

Yin is one of the creative tenants working in Paris’ coolest new venue, Cité de la Mode et du Design (City of Fashion and Design). Built on a former industrial wasteland on the banks of the Seine river, close to Gare d’Austerlitz, the complex provides studio space to emerging and established designers.

It also offers space for fashion shows, pop-up exhibitions and is home to Paris’ famous Institut Francais de La Mode (French Institute of Fashion), open air rooftop hangout Wanderlust and boutiques that include Magasin 1 and Magasin 3 that showcase new design talent and established favourites.

PARIS USEFUL WEBSITES http://ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr/en/ (French) labiennaledebelleville.fr (French) www.citemodedesign.fr/la-cite-en (French) www.paris-prm.com (French, English) CREATIVE KALLIO SHOWCASES EDGY STYLESOFTHE FUTURE. TO CONTEMPORARY ANDCLASSIC FINNISHDESIGN, WHILENEARBY DESIGN DISTRICTHELSINKI OFFERSA PERFECTINTRODUCTION CAPITAL

HELSINKI than 200stores, andgalleries. workshops 2005 with 50 members, but is now packed with more become a District, a neighbourhood of 25 streets, which has oftheDesign Many ofthese creatives are intheheart 2012.Prize Finland’sDesign Forum Young Designerofthe Year collective OKDo,who withthearts-design won people andboldnewideas,’ says LindaBergroth, you’ll impressionbut first ‘Helsinki mightgive a stark Wüstenberg. by Pia Nuutinentoceramic-glassware by Kariin Finnish creatives, from bulbous lamp designs ranging Helsinki.District by morethan300 Itsellswork oftheneighbourhoodknown asDesign heart Today the Forum’s shopping outlet is based in the and Designsince1875. promoting FinnishdesignwiththeSocietyofCrafts Design Capital in2012, has been but the Forum Aarnio’s bubble chair. Helsinkiwasvoted World coolas Eero knife and as effortlessly Wirkkala coffee cup,a KajFranck ascuttingedgea you do not think about it. It isas ubiquitous as Helsinki’s isembeddedin Design DNA. Itissogood It is for everyone.’ do design is simply to make products and services Design Forum. follows‘Form function. The aim of says Aino Vepsäläinen, project manager at Finland’s ‘In Finland, good design has always been a their job better. Design isnot a soon discover a hot spot for cool designers. It started in in hot spot for cooldesigners. It started BOLD NEWIDEAS city packed with open-minded luxury in Finland.luxury way oflife,’ Tapio range for Miun features fabrics printed with nature printed for Miunfeatures fabrics range the district’s designers. IlonaHyötyläinen’s new is a inspiration Natural Heino says. and we are inspired by around us,’the nature ofcrafts isthatwe havetradition a stronghistory ‘I thinkoneofthereasonswe have design a vibrant of Anna Heino.lery of and ceramic Anu Penttinen, orthebubble jewel- glassshoes ofMinna Parikka, the contemporary Katja Hagelstam’s Lokal gallery, the ‘paint-splashed’ ofSashaHuberat photographer the staple-gun art for thedesignclassicsoftomorrow, whetheritis district’sThe streetsaretheperfect huntingground have soaredinthepastfew years.’ for 60 ‘But an edition from1950was recently auctioned would be 700 euros,’ says the store’s Timo Penttilä. Finnishdesign? price ofthatlamp A new version a Here inthecentreofa then goinsearchofsometake-home vintageclassics. to the mobilephonedesignsthatdefined the1980s, in the 17th century from scissors everything facturing to seehow Finnstookonthechallengeofmanu- withthedistrict’s 140-year-oldStart DesignMuseum Finnish creativity. in is ideal for anyone course lookingfor a crash Helsinkiisabout.Design District Butbestofallit and youNegen Straatjes get a with the vintage store vibe of Amsterdam’s De area SouthofFolkungagataninStockholm, mixed Imagine the creative shops of SoFo, the designer ‘beehive’ lampbyAlvar thelegendary Aalto. ‘What 000 euros. for classic Finnishdesign Prices creative thread for many of giant underground space is giant underground good idea ofwhat >> ‘Finland is at the crossroads of Slavic and Scandinavian cultures,’ she says. ‘This has led to an interesting mix of dark and light, pure shapes and traditional handcrafted details. It’s a mix of melancholia and pure shapes.’

photography, while Paola Suhonen’s latest collection However, Metsola prefers her workshop and store is inspired by the countryside of the 1930s. to be based on the edgy streets of nearby Kallio. DESIGN FOR LIVING ‘It feels genuine here,’ says her neighbour Anna Suhonen’s label IVANAhelsinki significantly rede- Jaakkola, who customises bicycles. ‘Yes, the street life In 2013 the Finnish design legend Arabia celebrates Today this tradition of creativity continues. In the fined Finland’s design landscape when she became is colourful,’ grins graphic artist Teemu Keisteri. 140 years of producing quality tableware. Why studio of Kim Simonsson there is a ceramic girl with the first Finnish fashion designer to be featured in ‘But Kallio is a great base for my work.’ should Arabia matter? ‘In Finland we have grown up an elephant head; in Pekka Paikkari’s workshop Paris Fashion Week. And that was only in 2007. with Arabia items around us,’ says the company’s reconstituted glass is prepared for an installation and Nearby is the labyrinth of cooperative creativity Concept Manager Irina Viipola. ‘We inherited these in the atrium Aimo Katajamäki’s sinister ape heads So what is the appeal of her style? ‘Finland is at the known as ‘Made in Kallio’. Here, workshops accom- affordable functional pieces from our mothers and greet visitors. crossroads of Slavic and Scandinavian cultures,’ she modate jewellers, printers, shoe designers, bicycle grandmothers.’ says. ‘This has led to an interesting mix of dark and makers, graphic experts, photographers and video ‘Arabia continues to support top level Finnish light, pure shapes and traditional handcrafted details. graphers. In rooms behind the café, robotic arms Legendary designers such as Alvar Aalto created ceramic art by providing studios and materials to It’s a mix of melancholia and pure shapes.’ draft giant graphics, three-dimensional printers pop glass for Arabia in the 1930s, while Kaj Franck revo- artists,’ says Viipola. out plastic figurines and hydroponic plants are con- lutionised tableware in the 1950s with multifunc- trolled remotely. tional pieces that were perfect for tiny post-war INTERNATIONAL BUYERS apartments where space was precious. ‘Customers can enjoy a rare level of interaction ‘People like Paola made a difference,’ says fashion here,’ says co-founder Jon Sundell. ‘They can see the designer Mirkka Metsola. ‘International buyers know products and also spend time with the people who about Finnish design now and that helps people like produced them. We add another dimension of cre- me.’ Mirkka, who was formerly part of a group of ativity to the city.’ fashion designers known as FEM, now creates two HELSINKI USEFUL WEBSITES ranges per year and even showcases the work of a collection of Dutch creatives known as Designers www.designforum.fi/en (Finnish, English) www.designmuseum.fi/en/ (Finnish, English, Swedish) On Tour. http://en.uusix.fi/ (English, Finnish) www.visithelsinki.fi/en (several languages)

USEFUL WEBSITES

http://europa.eu/wonder-is-all-around www.visiteurope.com

BRERA breradesigndistrict.it (Italian) www.triennale.org/en/ (English, Italian) http://pinacotecabrera.org/en/ (Italian) www.turismo.milano.it/wps/portal/tur/en (Italian, English, Chinese)

BELLEVILLE http://ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr/en/ (French) labiennaledebelleville.fr (French) www.citemodedesign.fr/la-cite-en (French) www.paris-prm.com (French, English)

HELSINKI www.designforum.fi/en (Finnish, English) www.designmuseum.fi/en/ (Finnish, English, Swedish) http://en.uusix.fi/ (English, Finnish) www.visithelsinki.fi/en (several languages)