Europe's Route 66

EUROPE’S ROUTE 66 This is the second installment of a two- part series about the EuroVelo 6 route. “An Epic Act of Transience” appeared in the Oct./Nov. 2019 issue. e left the Rhine and cycled route we were pedaling, begins with a had assembled (four apps and hardcopy into Germany. Solitary gravel trickle. As my cycling partner, Thierry maps) mainly served as contingency Wroads dipped in and out of dense stands Joubert, and I left Western Europe for plans. Our trail was a combination of of trees surrounding secluded glades at the continent’s central region, those shared but lightly trafficked roads, hard- the edge of the Black Forest. The trail two phenomena — the headwaters of packed gravel along river levees, and then became a funnel. Steep dirt trails the Danube, the continent’s second bicycle-only paths. Most drivers were dove into the woods, snaking around longest river, and our journey across 10 almost too polite, waiting for us to reach velvety green, moss-covered stones, countries from the Atlantic Ocean to intersections and then always giving us guiding us like omniscient ushers. All the Black Sea — intersected. the right of way. Through France and the while, a winding rivulet had begun to We’d started 15 days earlier in Switzerland, pedaling more than 900 take shape next to us, its waters growing Saint-Brevin-les-Pins, on the French miles, we found bike-friendly campsites in strength as we climbed hills and coast at the mouth of the Loire River. where we pitched a tent most days, plummeted between beech and birch In the early stages, as we pointed our B&Bs, pensions, and hotels, all located trees, pines, firs, and oaks. gravel bikes east (loaded with front at regular 30-mile increments. And At its origin, the Danube — created panniers, framebags, handlebar packs, perhaps most important for the health by the convergence of the Breg and seatbags), it became obvious that of regional tourism, we discovered that and Brigach streams — is small, France’s tourism model represented the majority of people enjoying the more like a big creek. This seems a different philosophy than we were trail were in-country locals. The trail’s obvious, perhaps. The genesis of accustomed to. primary focus was domestic travelers most undertakings, be it one of the The cycling route, which utilizes the and commuters. mightiest and most historic waterways La Loire à Vélo path for the first 500 The existence of this bike-first on the planet or a bicycle expedition miles, was well marked. So well, in fact, tourism model was more than an along the 2,900-mile EuroVelo 6 (EV6) that the backup navigation system I epiphany. The realization for me, a 14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER 2019 /JANUARY 2020 STORY BY ALEX CREVAR PHOTOS BY THIERRY JOUBERT “The river and the route longtime travel writer and responsible- supports cycling for travel and also became one in a way tourism advocate, was a call to arms. The transportation. “The EuroVelo EuroVelo’s network of 16 routes stretches network helps [move] cycle tourism that hadn’t happened over 45,000 kilometers and includes 42 to the mainstream, making people before. How we rode, countries across every corner of Europe. realize it is a mode of traveling That such a pedal-powered highway accessible to everyone, not only very where we rode, and even system could — in an easy-to-navigate sportive or adventurous people.” when we rode — because and safe fashion — prioritize cyclists As we covered the first third throughout an entire continent made me of the EV6 — riding through of rain and floods — was question the level of responsibility I had Nantes, Tours, Orleans, Nevers, demanded from myself when covering and Mulhouse in France, and now dictated by one stories and the publications I worked for then Basel before heading across geographical feature, over more than two decades. the Rhine Falls in Switzerland — “First of all, seeing Europe on a along the Loire, Saone, Doubs, Ill, which also brought with bicycle, rather than from the window Canal du Rhône, and then Rhine it more cultures, towns, of a car, a train, a bus, or a plane, allows rivers, I also became more aware one to experience the whole route, of the physicality of the feat I was and cities.” and not only the starting and ending undertaking. Although I had been points of a trip,” said Florence Grégoire, in fair shape before the ride, I a communications assistant with the discovered that nothing can compensate a physical and mental routine, which European Cyclists’ Federation (ECF), for being in the saddle all day, every day. necessitated I adjust to the route, not the which oversees EuroVelo development. The ability to ride approximately 60 to other way around. The ECF, based in Brussels, Belgium, 80 miles per day for weeks represented Each evening we unpacked a tent, ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 15 sleeping bags, rain gear, clothes, tools, reasons,” said Thierry Joubert, my riding staked claims on sections for defense food, and cookery. Every morning we partner and director of Green Visions, and economic survival. repacked; everything lived in a precise an ecotourism outfit based in Sarajevo, The weight of that history was spot — mindfully measured based on Bosnia and Herzegovina. “After more tangible, and suddenly we weren’t alone bike balance and the degree to which than two weeks in the saddle, we were in that assessment. Riding into Bavaria, each item would be needed throughout reaching full strength as cyclists. But the we were entering yet another sphere of the day. We became efficient, chocolate- river and the route also became one in a cycle tourism development. The route, scarfing, banana-peeling, pedal-mashing, way that hadn’t happened before. How which followed the long-established Marie Kondo–like organizing machines. we rode, where we rode, and even when Donauradweg, or Danube Cycle Path, Regardless of how steely and we rode — because of rain and floods — became mainly, if not completely, methodical we had become, however, was now dictated by one geographical riverside and bike-only. Bicycle groups, reaching the 1,770-mile Danube was a feature, which also brought with it more especially eBikers moving at a uniform big deal. Our trip had suddenly become cultures, towns, and cities.” 15 mph, started to steadily appear. As simplified. Reaching the last river The river’s monopolizing grasp of the Danube reached adolescence — big meant we had one shoreline, one rolling our journey was no coincidence. The enough to become a city’s chief point landmark, one definitive path to follow to Danube has been a key character in of reference but not yet an industrial the end. We had found our yellow brick Europe’s story since the beginning of behemoth — the number of landmarks road — or so we thought. Also, when civilization on the continent. Every also seemed to be growing. we looked at the EV6’s elevation table, empire here has felt the need to control In Ulm, the birthplace of Albert the highest point for the entire route this crucial artery. The Greeks traded Einstein, we pitched our tent in a canoe occurred just as we reached the creek up and down its course. The Romans club’s front yard with the Ulm Minster that would soon become the Danube considered it the northern boundary towering above. Built over a span of 500 with which most are familiar. From that of its vast holdings and set up military years starting in the 14th century, the point — on paper anyway — the route posts (becoming cities such as Vienna, gargantuan Gothic structure’s 530-foot seemed to flow downhill to the Black Sea. Budapest, and Belgrade) along the steeple makes it the tallest church in “The Danube immediately changed riverbanks to protect against invasion. the world. The river widening, we rolled the rhythm of our ride for lots of The Ottomans and Hapsburgs both through villages and towns spilling onto 16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER 2019 /JANUARY 2020 The Danube has been NUTS & BOLTS a key character in Europe’s story since five places to see the beginning of civilization on the continent. Every empire here has felt the need to control this crucial artery. Roman roots, and one of 11 UNESCO ULM, GERMANY sites along the EV6 — we rode The birthplace of Albert Einstein is also home to the underneath the Parthenon-inspired, world’s tallest church — the incredible, Gothic, 530- neo-classical Walhalla. Built to honor foot Ulm Minster, which looms over the Danube. great German artists and scientists, the palatial hilltop building seemed VIENNA, AUSTRIA to also guard the last of the river’s The Grande Dame of the Danube is both historic — disappearing youth. Roman roots and a Hapsburg soul — yet still utterly In Passau, our last city in modern and independently minded. Germany, our intimate little waterway, which we’d watched grow BUDAPEST, HUNGARY since its inception, merged with One of the most beautiful river cities on the planet, the Inn and Ilz rivers. Swollen by the Hungarian capital is famous for a two-sided tributaries, strengthened across the personality — with its two halves, Buda and Pest — width of Bavaria, and lined with and inspiring architecture. the path with beer gardens cruise ships, it now commanded the and cafés jammed with landscape. As we crossed into Austria, OSIJEK, CROATIA bicycles. Farms of canary- the Danube had become an adult. Straddling the banks of the Drava River just before yellow canola flowers The stages between Passau and it joins the Danube, Osijek centers around an 18th blanketed our horizons until Budapest — a stretch that includes century fortress and is known for an easygoing the sulfur-spring–laden spa Vienna and Bratislava — are what many personality and love of wine.

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