DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, & the New Europe

Remembering , etc. Were I to make a list of the 100 places in Germany, Austria and Schaffhausen Switzerland European travelers should see before they die, the Though best known as a German river, the starts in the Swiss Alps. Early in Rhine Falls would probably be on its journey it passes the frequently overlooked medieval Swiss city of Schaffhausen. it. While not as high or imposing as chaffhausen is a city that com- city life unfold at a leisurely pace. Niagra, Victoria Falls in South Afri- bines the medieval, the mod- ca, or Brazil’s Iguassu Falls, and On the Rhine River in the most Sern, plus everything in be- northern part of Switzerland, almost probably others around the world, tween—and manages to do it with they are pretty impressive when an island in a sea of Germany, Schaff- style, much like a woman who has you’re in that little boat at their hausen was already a thriving market lived a long time, base. Sharon Hudgins’ lead story by Sharon Hudgins town when it received its city charter still wears elegant on Schaffhausen—the logical place in 1045. The name probably derives clothes that never go out of fashion, to stay when visiting the Falls— from Schiffhausen (boat houses), refer- maintains a contemporary outlook, brought memories of our first ring to the little wooden sheds along and is comfortable with the contrast Schaffhausen visit in 1987, Gemütli- the river that sheltered the boats that between present and past. chkeit’s earliest days. We stayed at plied the Rhine’s blue waters and the Park Villa (see page 4) in a Such a place attracts the kind of brought prosperity to the city’s mer- room featuring a turret with a 270- visitor who enjoys wandering through chants (especially salt traders). degree view. (I think it’s the one cobblestone streets and narrow lanes, Today Schaffhausen is the capital shown on the hotel’s website with a gazing at historic houses, listening to of the Swiss canton of the same name. carved wood canopy bed. You can the burble of flower-bedecked foun- Most of its winding border is with see the opening to the turret at the tains, or just sitting in a sidewalk cafe Germany, except for a small section right of the photo.) on a spacious square, sipping cups of on the southeast side which touches dark, hot chocolate while watching canton What I remember most about on the Swiss of Zürich. Continued on page 3… that visit was dinner at Fischerzun- ft, then a new, rising Michelin- starred restaurant much-praised in Stay a Little Longer Gourmet Magazine. This was when ast month we talked about the Nouvelle Cuisine—tiny servings, ties, and a greater range of services. financial and cultural advan- every plate of food a work of art — Room rates frequently include meals, L tages of house and apartment usually dinner and breakfast. Orga- was much in vogue and, with its rental as an alternative to the practice Chinese-French fusion dishes, Fis- nized guests activities are typical, of frequent moves from hotel-to-hotel cherzunft was one of Switzerland’s even in some less expensive hotels, and city-to-city. Self-catering is a leading practitioners. It was said to and can include outdoor buffets with strategy we highly live music, group hikes, exercise be the Aga Khan’s (remember by Bob Bestor recommend but there’s him?) favorite restaurant. Expen- classes, sleigh rides, even cooking another to be considered, one em- sive? Of course. Even then the classes. A one or two-page newslet- ployed by millions of Europeans but fixed-price menu was $59 per per- ter setting out the day’s activities is relatively few North Americans— son—for an astonishingly small often distributed at breakfast. Many extended hotel stays. Though they’ve amount of food. As I wrote in the high-end family hotels, especially in gotten used to it over the past 15-20 September, 1987, issue: “at the end Austria, offer childcare and super- years, many European hoteliers are of the meal one had the feeling of vised activities for children. puzzled by our need to pack up and having dined on a series of light The experience of settling-in for a leave after just a day or two. Vacation hors d’oeuvres. Another feeling week or more at a peaceful European hotels in Germany, Austria and Swit- was hunger.” The service was stiff country hotel (most vacation hotels zerland are geared for longer stays. and formal; after each pouring, our Rooms are often larger than in busi- Continued on page 6… expensive bottle of wine was re- ness-oriented hotels, there are more Exchange rates as of 6/1/09 moved and put on a sideboard out 1 euro = $1.41 recreation facilities, more and larger of our reach—a pretentious practice 1 Swiss franc = $0.93 public spaces, planned guest activi- Continued on page 2… 1 gallon diesel, Germany=$5.56 www.gemut.com June 2009

75985_06Gemut 1 6/5/09, 9:15 AM www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER the food at Alte Rheinmühle USA. Here’s a tip: Buy regular trip Continued from page 1 (www.alte-rheinmuehle.ch), over- insurance but with zero coverage looking the river, was very good. for trip cancellation. That way you that never fails to raise my hackles. get the medical coverage without Shaky might be another word to de- **** Those who should know tell me trip cancellation insurance, which scribe the service; while pouring our you may not need unless you have wine, the young server held the bottle the famous Christmas markets of western Europe have become over- high nonrefundable, prepaid trip by its very bottom, thumb-in-punt commercialized, sometimes impossi- expenses such as for a cruise or (indentation at the bottom of the bot- bly crowded venues, that have house rental. Here’s how to do it. tle), a daunting procedure for very strayed from their former emphasis Go to www.gemut.com, click “Buy small hands. We held our breath at on handmade merchandise pro- travel insurance” in the upper left each pour as the bottle gyrated and duced by highly-skilled craftsmen hand corner of the page. On the looked like it might slip from her hand. and women. The more authentic subsequent page indicate your Other than the scant servings, the markets, I am told, are in towns of state; California, Nebraska, etc., most unsettling part of this disap- the former Eastern Bloc such as Pra- then click the “Buy Now” button pointing evening was the infant in a gue, Krakow, and Warsaw. That’s on Travel Guard’s Platinum cover- baby carriage at the next table who why for a true old-time Christmas age. When you fill in the form put fussed and cried throughout the market experience we recommend “0” in the “‘trip cost” box. You’ll entire evening. Karen Pasold’s Christmas Markets of find that a couple in their early Fischerzunft still gets a Michelin Imperial Europe" tour, a 12-night itin- ‘70s can get $50,000 in medical star, though I have heard the por- erary that visits Prague, Krakow, expenses coverage and $1 million tions are more substantial these Warsaw, Pilsen, Leipzig and Dres- in emergency evacuation coverage, days. At current exchange rates, the den. At $4,490 it’s more expensive for a little over $50 each. You’ll top fixed-price menu is about $165 but you’ll get much more for your also get the policy’s lost baggage per person. On the premises now, money —most dinners and lunches, and trip delay insurance plus a however, is a second restaurant, the first-class rail with double sleeper few other perks.—RHB less-expensive Vinopium which compartments, five-star hotels, the Using Gemütlichkeit gets Michelin’s “good food at mod- Prague ballet, etc. — than with the • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts erate prices” designation. My rec- assembly-line major tour operators. are often available for longer stays. ommendation is to drive or take the Ms. Pasold who is bursting with • All hotel prices include breakfast unless other- train 22 km to the quaint village of energy and knowledge of Eastern wise noted. Stein am Rhein and have fresh fish Europe, personally leads her small • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. To phone dinner on the terrace of the Hotel group each year. Contact: Classic establishments from outside the country, such Rheinfels directly on the Rhine. Europe, 1 Glenmoor, Frisco TX as from the USA, do not dial the first “0”. A pretty Rhine town near Schaff- 75034, tel. 972-625- 6050, email [email protected]. Logging on to Our Website hausen is Büsingen. Though physi- Back issues in PDF format from January 1993, except cally in Switzerland it is a German **** for the most recent 10, are available free to subscribers exclave whose citizens drive cars We get a lot of questions about only at www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To with German plates and pay taxes in where to buy overseas medical in- access the issues, enter the user name and password published in this space each month. The new codes are: Germany. The currency though is surance from readers on Medicare User Name: house Password: 4141 the Swiss franc. Last time I was there who don’t have coverage outside the

Vol. 23, No. 5 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY June 2009 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Executive Editor:Robert Nikki H. Goth Bestor Itoi Contributors:Contributors:Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Tom Johnson Bross Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Paul SharonT. Merschdorf Hudgins Adequate 4 - 7 ConsultingConsulting Editor: Editor: Thomas Thomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionOnline Services: Dept: Kurt Kurt Steffans Steffans SubscriberSubscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura Riedel Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by UpCountry People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 10 issues. While Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 no guarantees regarding accuracy. Facilities/Restaurant 20% POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit 2 June 2009

75985_06Gemut 2 6/5/09, 9:15 AM http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com SCHAFFHAUSEN Schaffhausen Basics logical finds, oil paintings, carved furniture, rich textiles, gold and silver Continued from page 1 Population: 34,000 treasures, and entire restored rooms As one of Switzerland’s best-pre- Elevation: 403 meters (1,322 ft) from old houses. served towns dating from the Middle Ages, Schaffhausen boasts a number Visitor Information: Schaffhau- Those who enjoy modern art can of beautiful buildings, including sev- serland Tourismus, Herrenacker 15, cross the street to the Hallen für Neu- eral impressive guild houses. Most 8200 Schaffhausen, tel. +41/52- en Kunst to view contemporary Eu- are made of stone instead of the Fach- 6324020, fax 6324030, ropean and American paintings, werk (half-timbering) characteristic of [email protected], sculptures, and spatial installations many other medieval cities. After a www.schaffhauserland.ch. produced since 1965. devastating fire in the 14th century, Driving Distances: High on the hill overlooking the the town council forbade wooden 90 km 56 miles Altstadt and the river, the Munot For- constructions within the city walls. In Bern 145 km 90 miles tress is a circular stone bastion built in earlier times, 10 stone houses belong- Geneva 300 km 186 miles the 16th century to protect the town ing to wealthy citizens were adorned Lausanne 240 km 149 miles from its enemies. A watchman still with colorful frescoes. Today only Luzern 90 km 56 miles lives in the fortress’s tall tower and three remain, including Zum gold- Lugano 225 km 140 miles rings the Munot bell by hand every enen Ochsen, with paintings depict- Zürich 45 km 30 miles night at 9:00 o’clock, a tradition dat- ing scenes from ancient Babylon and Visitor information: Guided tours ing back to earlier times when the city Haus zum Rit- Greek myths, and the on Tuesdays and Saturdays (Ger- gates and the taverns within the walls ter , one of the most important fres- man or English), provided by the were closed at that hour. Walk up to coed facades north of the Alps. tourist office (CHF 12/person, or the fortress from the Old Town, as- More than 170 Erkerfenstern (oriels, free with “Bodensee Erlebni- cending 200 steep steps through the bay windows) protrude from the first skarte”). Tourist Service, Oberstadt vineyards. After such a climb you’ll and second stories of houses in the 3, 8260 Stein am Rhein, tel. +41/52- definitely be ready for a glass of wine Altstadt (Old Town), many are ornate 7422090, fax 7422091, tourist- or beer at the top. (Or drive up the examples of the stonemasons’ and [email protected], hill and park in the Munot lot.) woodcarvers’ arts. Expensive status www.steinamrhein.ch. Excursions symbols touting the wealth of their Transportation: Trains of the Deut- owners, the windows were once plac- Schaffhausen’s nearest main at- sches Bundesbahn and the Swiss traction is the Rheinfalls (near Neu- es where inhabitants could privately Bundesbahn both serve Schaffhaus- observe the streets below from behind hausen), the largest waterfall in Eu- en’s train station. Nearest major rope, more than 150 meters (nearly the curtained panes. In 1972 most of train hub: Zürich (45 km, 30 miles). the Altstadt became a pedestrian zone, 500 feet) wide and 23 meters (75 feet) Nearest airport: Zürich-Kloten, 32 high. Torrents of water rush over the allowing passersby to wander at will, km (20 miles). looking up at these Renaissance and falls, throwing off frothy rainbow- Baroque windows without fear of Discounts: Bodensee Erlebniskarte, filled sprays. And every year on Au- being run down by traffic. with three levels of services and gust 1 (a Swiss national holiday), a prices, offering free or discounted huge fireworks display over the wa- For another side of the city’s histo- entry to museums and other attrac- terfall attracts thousands of spectators Mün- ry, visit the Romanesque tions in the Bodensee area. Avail- from all over Europe. sterkirche (Abbey Church), estab- able from local tourist offices or Hike or bike the three kilometers lished in the 11th century, rebuilt in from Bodensee Erlebniskarte, the 12th century, and renovated in the from Schaffhausen to the falls along [email protected], marked trails on both sides of the 1970s. The adjacent cloister, the larg- www.bodensee.eu est in Switzerland, encloses a ceme- river. (Bicycles can be rented at the tery where important city officials Recommended guidebooks: train station.) Or take a bus from the were buried from the 1500s through Schaffhausen: A Short Cultural and main train station in the direction of the 1800s. Just beyond the cloister, Historical Tour of the Old Town (the Neuhausen/Rheinfalls. Car drivers sniff your way around the recon- only local guidebook in English). can park in designated lots below the structed medieval herb garden filled Sold at the tourist office, book- falls and walk to several places for with plants used for medicinal and stores, and museum shops (CHF 9). viewing the water. culinary purposes. Next visit the Mu- Schaffhauser Monats Bulletin (in Ger- It is possible to take a choppy boat seum zu Allerheiligen (All Saints man only), is a monthly listing of ride across the river below the falls, Museum), a labyrinthine part of the events and sights in and around including an excursion to the foot of old monastery complex containing a Schaffhausen. Available at the tour- the huge rock in the center, where variety of exhibits on the history of ist office and some hotel reception iron steps lead to the promontory for the city and the region, with archaeo- desks. a truly dramatic view. Wear rain gear.

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75985_06Gemut 3 6/5/09, 9:15 AM www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com Recommended restaurants at the Rathausplatz (Town Hall Square), and Each of its 25 rooms is different in falls are the Restaurant Park am narrow streets branch off in several size, shape, and decor. Many are lav- Rheinfalls and the Schlössli Worth directions, leading to sometimes sur- ishly furnished with antiques, oriental Panorama Restaurant and Wine Bar, prising views around the next corner rugs, and flowered drapes. both on the Neuhausen side of the or through the next gate. Visit the The public rooms (lounge, dining river. Situated on a large rock in the Rathaus with its large council hall now room, breakfast room) are graced middle of the river, the Schlössli turned into a museum displaying ar- with more antiques, chandeliers, and Worth is accessible by a small foot- mor, weapons, and flags; the medieval fancy stuccoed ceilings; some of the bridge across the water. Its glassed-in Klostermuseum St. Georgen, a Bene- windows have stained-glass panes. dining room is suspended over the dictine abbey with a late-Gothic clois- Outdoors, a tennis court and terrace river and has a spectacular view. The ter and early Renaissance frescoes in cafe are surrounded by the lush, park- restaurant at Schloss Laufen is high the “celebration hall”; and the Muse- like grounds. The hotel’s restaurant above the falls on the Zürich canton um Lindwurm, with exhibits on daily offers several salads (priced around side. At these restaurants, one pays a life and agriculture in the 19th century. CHF 15); small cold and warm dishes premium for location and view. The massive stone fortress, Burg Ho- (CHF 18-27); and main dishes (CHF For a less expensive meal, pack a henklingen (recently restored), sits on 25-40). The wood-paneled bar/lounge picnic to eat on the riverbank, or buy a forested hill above the town, over- is a popular gathering place for locals, food at one of the stalls near the park- looking Stein and the Rhine riverscape too. If you like the atmosphere of an ing lots. Next to the elegant Schlössli for the past 800 years. old-fashioned, well-decorated private Worth restaurant, on the same little For a fun day-trip to Stein am mansion, you’ll enjoy staying here. island, you can eat indoors or on the Rhein, take a round-trip boat ride Contact: Hotel Park Villa, Parkstrasse terrace at the reasonably-priced from Schaffhausen (about 2 hours 18, 8200 Schaffhausen, tel. +41/52- Schlössli Self-Service Snack Bar, as each way). Stein has plenty of places 6356060, fax 6356070, the water rushes below. to eat (and to stay overnight). The [email protected], www.parkvilla.ch Up the river from Schaffhausen, Hotel-Restaurant Adler, Hotel-Res- Daily Rates: The hotel has three gues- toward the Bodensee, the medieval taurant Rheinfels, and the Badstube troom categories: standard, superior, walled town of Stein am Rhein at- Stein am Rhein are recommended— and deluxe. Price ranges across these tracts hordes of tourists, especially in although less pricey restaurants and categories: Singles CHF 78-249, dou- summer. Handsome houses with 16th- accommodations are available, too. bles CHF 130-308. Free parking in century frescoes line the central And if you feel the urge to travel just front of the hotel. a bit farther, take a boat from Stein to Key Websites for the Traveler Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 14/20 Kreuzlingen on the Untersee, an • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travel- ers to Germanic Europe, including car rental, arm of the Bodensee from which the Hotel Promenade rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, and Rhine River flows westward toward For those who prefer a more mod- past issues (free access to back issues for Stein and Schaffhausen, then Basel, ern ambience in the same tree-lined subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). before heading north through Ger- • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin data- part of Schaffhausen as the Park Villa, base of hotels and restaurants, plus great many to the Atlantic. the Hotel Promenade is an especially interactive trip planning tools pleasant stop. Located in a 100-year- • www.travelessentials.com Guidebooks, Schaffhausen Hotels old building that was once the Ger- maps, travel accessories, luggage, all at 10 All hotels reviewed here have en percent off for subscribers. Use discount code man consulate, the hotel has been gemut2009. suite bathrooms and friendly, English- completely renovated inside, with • maps.google.com Best maps on the web. speaking staff. Prices (in Swiss francs, sleek, contemporary furnishings, a Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great detail CHF) include breakfast, service, and garden where guests can relax, a good city & country. Satellite & terrain views. all taxes—but rates can still seem high restaurant, and a separate area for the • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en Ger- in relation to amenities, especially man rail website, with train schedules breakfast buffet. Double rooms are throughout Europe, as well as Germany given the current dollar/Swiss franc large, and a few have a balcony. • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and exchange rate. (Note that rooms with Many third-floor rooms have exposed European rail schedules both a tub and shower tend to cost wooden beams. Number 303 is a • www.ski-europe.com Top Web resource more than rooms with only a show- good-sized double, with a balcony for skiers with much data on Alpine resorts er.) In Switzerland, the following • www.myswitzerland.com Website of overlooking the garden and a spa- Switzerland’s national tourist authority hotels are considered to be in the cious bathroom. moderate price range. • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s The Promenade’s restaurant offers national tourist authority a menu of soups and salads (CHF 7- • www.austria.info/us Austria’s nation- Hotel Park Villa al tourist authority This 4-story stone building, con- 9.50); appetizers and cold plates (CHF 14.50-23); vegetarian and egg dishes • www.historicgermany.com Website for structed in 1900 and surround- ’S an alliance of historic German cities (CHF 15.50-19.50); and meat and fish ed by large trees, is about five EDITOR • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on electronics CHOICE main courses (CHF 18-34.50). for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. minutes’ walk from the Altstadt.

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75985_06Gemut 4 6/5/09, 9:15 AM http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com Contact: Hotel Promenade, Fäsen- different, with sleek contemporary cozy restaurant with its paneled din- staubstrasse 43, 8200 Schaffhausen, furnishings; a few also have stone ing room and clever, artistically sim- tel. +41/52-6307777, fax 6307778, walls and exposed wooden beams. ple table decorations. Plays and musi- [email protected], The modern breakfast buffet is in the cal events are sometimes held on the www.promenade-schaffhausen.ch large ground floor space that also small stage at one end of the dining Daily Rates: Singles CHF 132-175, houses the lobby, lounge, and a small room. The chef adheres to the “Slow doubles CHF 190-250. Free parking. self-service bar. No restaurant and no Food” philosophy, using fresh, re- Rating: QUALITY 17/20, VALUE 16/20 parking facilities, but there are plenty gional, mostly organic, ingredients. of places to eat nearby, as well as a She makes her own stocks, soups, Hotel Kronenhof public parking garage. herb mixtures, and chutneys. Conveniently located in the Old The daily soups are served in Town, the Kronenhof offers 40 rooms Contact: Sorrell Hotel Rüden, Ober- small or large portions (CHF 5.50- in a wide range of prices, sizes, and stadt 20, 8201 Schaffhausen, +41/52- 9.50). A tasty appetizer consists of styles. The building dates from the 6323636, fax 6323637, [email protected], cubes of goat cheese wrapped in 15th century and has been renovated www.rueden.ch bacon, lightly grilled, and garnished many times. The large Antique Suite Daily Rates: Singles CHF 160-190, with fresh vegetables (CHF 16). has a beautiful ornate stucco ceiling doubles CHF 260-290 Mixed green salads come with a from the 1600s, and the Romantic Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 14/20 choice of meat or cheese toppings Suite has its original wooden ceiling Hotel Zum Sittich (CHF 10.50-23.50). Five varieties of from the same era. Other rooms are This very simple, 8-room, family- Spätzle are priced around CHF 19, decorated in much more modern run hotel is located in a more modern and other pasta dishes range from style. Standard doubles can be small, structure behind an old building with CHF 15.50-21.50. Meat and fish so ask for a larger corner room. The a fancy facade housing the Restaurant main dishes are more costly (CHF best views are from rooms that face Sittich on the Altstadt’s pedestrian 24.50-37.50), and house-made des- the Munot Fortress on the hill. street. Rooms are clean, modern, and serts are CHF 6-12.50. Parking can be a problem, howev- exceptionally large. Breakfast is Contact: Restaurant Schützenstube, er. Temporary parking is available in served in a spacious, sunny breakfast Schützengraben 27, 8200 Schaffhaus- the lot directly in front of the hotel or room. Friendly staff. en, tel. +41/52-6254249, fax. 6243719, at a public parking garage, but for Contact: Hotel Sittich, Vordergasse [email protected], longer-term stays it’s better to leave 43, 8200 Schaffhausen, tel. +41/52- www.schuetzenstube.ch. Reserva- your car in the much less expensive 6251372, fax 6251875, tions recommended. lot on Munot hill, then walk the 200 [email protected], www.a-o.ch/ Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 15/20 steps back down to the Old Town. 8200-sittich Restaurant Kronenhof The hotel also has a good restau- Daily Rates: Singles CHF 110, dou- rant (see restaurant reviews) and a bles CHF 160 The Hotel Kronenhof’s restau- rant, known for its modern elegance lively bar with a sidewalk cafe. Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 15/20 and traditional dishes, is popular Contact: Hotel Kronenhof, Kirchhof- Schaffhausen Restaurants with both locals and tourists. The platz 7, 8201 Schaffhausen, tel. +41/ Swiss, German, French, and Ital- menu features such classics as Wien- 52-6357575, fax 6357565, ian cuisines all meet on the same gas- erschnitzel with french fries and [email protected], tronomic ground in Schaffhausen. fresh vegetables, and Zürich-style www.kronenhof.ch The city has many good places to eat, chopped veal with potato pancakes Daily Rates: Singles CHF 140, dou- from cozy pastry shops to wood- and onions (CHF 26-30); a choice of bles CHF 195-245, suites CHF 300-320 paneled inns to one of the country’s grilled veal, beef, pork, lamb, chick- Rating: UALITY ALUE Q 16/20, V 15/20 top rated restaurants, Fischerzunft en, or salmon (around CHF 30, plus Hotel Zünfthaus Rüden (see Dear Subscriber). Those reviewed CHF 9 for a side salad); other main A member of the Sorrell group, here are all in the Old Town, mostly in dishes such as veal roulade with the Hotel Rüden is an ultra-modern the pedestrian zone. ham and cheese, lamb entrecôte “design hotel” located inside a reno- The regional red wine to drink is with dumplings, and beef filet vated medieval guild house in the fruity Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir); stuffed with goose liver and truffles Old Town. All that remains of the this part of Switzerland is known for (CHF 34-46). The daily lunch menu older interior is the wide stone stair- its fine white wines, too. As the Swiss (Monday-Friday) offers one-, two-, case leading up to the first floor and say when you begin your meal, “en and three-course meals (CHF 15-26). the magnificent guild hall (with a Guete!” (Guten Appetit!). Contact: Restaurant Kronenhof, ceiling like a richly decorated wed- Kirchhofplatz 7, 8201 Schaffhausen, ding cake), now used for concerts, Restaurant Schützenstube tel. +41/52-6357575, fax 6357565, banquets, and conferences. Planters filled with kitch- ’S [email protected], www.kronenhof.ch en herbs greet visitors to this EDITOR Each of the hotel’s 30 rooms is CHOICE Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 15/20 Gemütlichkeit 5 June 2009

75985_06Gemut 5 6/5/09, 9:15 AM www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com Güterhof some of the best bargains. Try Pizze- Jungfrau/Bernese Oberland region for This recently-opened restaurant ria Romana (Unterstadt 18/20), Piz- sheer alpine beauty, but where to and bar somehow manages to seem zeria Mama Rossa (Bachstrasse 19), headquarter is a tough decision. Inter- cozy within the cavernous space of a or La Piazza (Münsterplatz 38). laken is somewhat touristy and expen- renovated salt warehouse on the • Bakery/pastry shops offer a good sive, and villages such as Mürren, Rhine River quay. Exposed beams and selection of tempting sandwiches, Wengen and Grindelwald are lovely brown leather furniture provide a quiches, cakes, tortes, puddings, and but a bit remote. A pleasant compro- contrast to the modern food stations ice creams—for a picnic or to eat on mise is Wilderswil, a friendly stop on that hold salad buffets, sushi, and premises. Highly recommended are the rail line between Interlaken and desserts, as well as take-out foods. The Cafe Müller Beck (Vorstadt 25); Zuck- Lauterbrunnen. A well-marked trail daily menu (CHF 18-25) offers a vari- erbäckerei Ermatinger (Fronwagplatz flows around and through the village, ety of main-dish choices, including 11), with its house specialty, Honig- past a collection of medieval houses vegetarian . Or just stop by for coffee- nusstorte; and Confiserie Cafe Reber built around a square. A covered and-cake or a glass of wine at the (Vordergasse 21), bakers of the local bridge, circa 1738, crosses the pleasant sidewalk cafe and watch the specialty known as Schaffhauserzungen, Lütschine River to a 12th-century boats glide by on the river. oval-shaped cookies made of ground church. It’s off the beaten track but still Contact: Güterhof, Freier Platz 10, tel. hazelnuts and almonds around a in the center of the action. +41/52-6304040, [email protected], creamy vanilla filling. Gabi and Fritz Zurschmiede’s www.gueterhof.ch • Cafe Vordergasse (Vordergasse Hotel Bären, an inn since 1706, offers Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 15/20 79) is a popular, old-world-style past- a typical country atmosphere to an international clientele of value-seek- Haberhaus ry shop and cafe with daily lunch specials such as quiche with a choice ing vacationers. Antiques decorate Like many historic buildings in of salads (CHF 15-19), as well as their public spaces, and bears are every- Switzerland, this one has a complete- own cheesecake (CHF 6) and numer- where, from wood carvings and ly modernized interior. It houses a ous rich hot chocolate drinks. stuffed animals to painted pottery. bar and restaurant on one floor and a Most of the 50 guestrooms are larger • Swiss chocolates are world- small basement theater used for local than average and the slanting roof renowned. The Schaffhausen con- drama and musical productions, lends character to top-floor chambers. fectionery ABACO specializes in even tango lessons. The short, eclec- The Bären is famous for its giant buf- making top-quality chocolate can- tic menu (CHF 18.50-25.50) features fet breakfast which includes cooked- dies, chocolate drinks, and 32 fla- dishes made with ingredients from to-order eggs and even American- vors of ice cream produced on the local growers and farmers, including style dishes such as pancakes and premises. There are two locations: seasonal main dishes. Try the tradi- waffles. In addition to a sauna, TV Unterstadt 10 and Safrangasse 2. tional garlic chicken or ground meat lounge, and small fitness area, guests The interior of the Safrangasse patties with onion-mustard sauce, have access to a self-service laundry shop is a grotto-like shrine to choc- both CHF 25.50. Delicious fresh and free bicycles and mountain bikes. olate. Several of the city’s pastry bread is baked on site. The hotel is an 8-10 minute walk from shops also sell their own hand- Contact: Haberhaus, Neustadt 51, the rail station. A standard double made chocolates. 8200 Schaffhausen, tel. +41/52- room for a week will be around 6200660, fax 6269429, LONGER HOTEL STAYS $1,300 with breakfast. Though the [email protected], Continued from page 1 Bären offers no half-board arrange- www.haberhaus.ch ment it has three restaurants from are in the countryside or small villag- Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 15/20 which to choose. Contact: Hotel es), moving shirts, socks, underwear Bären, Oberdorfstrasse CH-3812 Eats on the Cheap from suitcase to drawer, dining at the Wilderswil, tel. +41/33/828 3151, same table each night, finding a quiet • Portions tend to be very large at www.baeren.ch, [email protected] most Schaffhausen restaurants. Often corner of the hotel to read a book, Gasthaus Alpenblick a Vorspeise (appetizer) is equivalent to walking through the woods with a Appenzell, Switzerland a full main course in the U.S. Prices small group led by the hotel’s owner, are high, especially at the current is a novelty to most North American Among the 65 “best value” hotels dollar/Swiss franc exchange rate. travelers but one we think they will cited in our 20th anniversary issue, Unless you’re ravenous, you might find rewarding in a variety of ways. as well an “Editor’s Choice” in our May, 2005 issue, is Gasthaus Alpen- consider splitting a main course with Here are some hotels—simple to blick, a classic four-story Swiss cha- your companion, or just ordering a moderately expensive—to consider let-style hotel with a spectacular soup or salad, followed by an appe- for a longer stay. tizer, for a filling meal. position on a little knoll above the Hotel Bären Schwende rail stop just outside Ap- • Italian restaurants serving piz- Wilderswil, Switzerland penzell. Views up the valley to the zas baked in wood-fired ovens can be Few places on earth can match the Alpstein range, gateway to many Gemütlichkeit 6 June 2009

75985_06Gemut 6 6/5/09, 9:15 AM http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com miles of hiking trails, are breathtak- adds up to good accommodations at traveler has many sightseeing options ing. Though the hotel is very much in very good prices. A week in a double with a 30 to 40-minute drive: the trea- the country, the train whisks guests to room with breakfast will be less than sures of Salzuburg; Burghausen to the Zürich in two hours, St. Gallen and its $500 and a family of four will pay a north and one of Germany’s most im- fascinating Textile Museum and Ab- little more than $900 for one of the pressive fortresses; and, of course, to bey Library in an hour, and nine min- apartments. Contact: Haus Leitner, the west is the Chiemsee and the vil- utes away is Appenzell, one of Swit- Abtsdorf 6, 4864 Attersee am Atter- lage of Prien, departure point for the zerland’s most authentic and charm- see, +43/7666/7661, urlaub@haus- frequent lake boats that service the ing towns. For a seven-night, June leitner.at, www.haus-leitner.at island where Ludwig II built his least stay in a “comfort” double room with Haus Hirt famous and unfinished castle, Her- balcony you will pay about $1,430 Bad Gastein, Austria renchiemsee, modeled after Versailles. including breakfast and dinner for Though it’s made somewhat of a Other than its convenient location two. Contact: Hotel Alpenblick, CH- comeback in the past 20 years, Bad near the above attractions, perhaps 9057 Schwende, tel. +41/71/799 1173, Gastein is still a bit of a spa ghost the best reason to visit Waging am [email protected], town, full of Victorian buildings that See is to stay at the 11-room www.alpenblick-appenzell.ch were once grand hotels but are now Landhaus Tanner and dine in its Haus Leitner something else. Though the great days excellent restaurant which rates a Attersee, Austria of Bad Gastein are long gone, it’s still a “Good food at Moderate Prices” Sommerfrische is an old Austrian pleasant place to visit with it’s won- Michelin designation. The high- expression referring to long summer derful setting on a horseshoe-shaped ceilinged dining room shines with vacations in the countryside. While shelf above the end of the Gasteiner modern Bavarian charm — plank the aristocrats preferred Bad Ischl, Valley and a thundering white-water floors, light wood paneling, banquets intellectuals and the bourgeoisie went torrent crashing through the center of lined with checkerboard padding 40 kilometers north to Attersee, a lake town toward the valley below. and pillows, the usual country knick- knacks—and draws a hip, under-50 in the Salzkammergut. Though there Ten minutes walk from the water- crowd. Familiar main dishes demon- are no trendy shops or Michelin- fall along Kaiser Wilhelm Promenade, strate capable preparation with fresh starred restaurants, the lake and the the pedestrian street that follows the ingredients. On our last visit there village of Attersee continue to draw a horseshoe, is Haus Hirt, all things con- we found little fault with rich, but- middle-income crowd, lured by the sidered probably the best hotel in tery calves liver served over chard, area’s charm, outdoor activities and town. It sits high above the valley and with sauteed leeks and au gratin reasonable prices. most rooms have sweeping views to- potatoes, or a first-rate rack of medi- For example, a two-night, high- ward the valley town of Bad Hof um-rare, herb-crusted lamb. season stay in one of Haus Leitner’s Gastein. This is not a short-stay hotel, pleasant airy double rooms with bal- its rate sheet lists prices for four days In materials and furnishings, the cony is e36 per person. But extend and a week, but they include breakfast 11, spacious, still-new guestrooms that to five nights and the price drops and dinner (including dining away and apartments seem designed to 28-percent to e26. A family of four or from the hotel at partner restaurants), create a small country inn a cut two couples can save even more in tea and fruit in the spa, a lunch snack, above the competition. Couples will one of the Leitner’s two-bedroom a welcome drink, guided hiking and have plenty of space, a small kitchen, apartments that feature hardwood biking tours. All rooms come with and balcony in one of the new 400 parquet floors, blonde wood trim and balcony, satellite TV, CD-player, square-foot apartments at a high- skylights for a total per night cost of phone, broadband internet, and safe. season rate of e95 (e81 in low sea- e65 to e96, depending on the season. Many are on two levels with living son). Add e32 per person for break- The apartments’ combination sitting space below and sleeping room above. fast and dinner and a week at the room/dining/breakfast room fea- For a week during the month of July a Tanner with first-rate dinning is un- tures polished, light wood built-in “valley view” double room is E708 or der $1,500. Cook your own break- banquets, and comfortable sofas and about $1,950 per couple. A “small and fasts and knock about $110 off that chairs. The small kitchens are chic” double—still with a view— is price. Contact: Landhaus Tanner, equipped with most necessities in- about $1,500. Off-season rates are about Aglassing 1, 83329 Waging am See, cluding coffee-maker, microwave five to eight percent lower. Contact: tel. +49/8681/6975 0, oven and dishwasher. Each of the Kaiserhofstrasse 14, 5640 Bad Gastein, [email protected], Leitner’s five rooms and two apart- tel. +43/6434/2797, info@haus- www.landhaustanner.de ments are equipped with shower, hirt.com, www.haus-hirt.com Wreecher Hof toilet, radio, cable TV, hairdryer, safe Landhaus Tanner Island of Rügen, Germany and balcony with lake view (more Waging am See, Germany Rügen is an island in the Baltic in than a mile away). There are outdoor From the village of Waging am the same way Alameda is an island in barbecue facilities, sauna, a heated the San Francisco Bay; both are sur- pool, table tennis, and playground. It See, just east of the Chiemsee, the auto Gemütlichkeit 7 June 2009

75985_06Gemut 7 6/5/09, 9:15 AM www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com rounded by water but can be easily normal number of points needed per reached via automobile. In Rügen’s Readers’ Forum night. This is a great deal for a hotel E case you can also get there by rail. Berlin Hotel Thumbs Up whose rack rate is 700-800 per night We've just returned from a great trip and whose cheapest rooms on the web Because it was long part of East E Germany and its communist gov- to Berlin. We stayed at Hotel Art Nou- are 410 . ernment, North Americans have yet veau and couldn't have made a better If you have no points, don’t forget to discover Rügen. Germans, how- choice. Gerd and Christine gave us the the current Westin offer of a free week- ever, love it for it’s reasonable pric- royal treatment: our room was upgrad- end night after two stays in any Star- es, sandy beaches, Victorian archi- ed to a huge suite, we had welcome wood hotel, not to mention other offers tecture, and towns and fishing vil- cocktails on the roof garden, and ob- of free third or fourth nights. I don’t lages that haven’t changed much in tained answers to all the questions we work for Starwood, but this seems like the past 60 years. It is also home to had about planning our time in Berlin. too good an offer not to share. what we consider one of Germany’ ELLIN JAEGER CARY FEIBLEMAN ugliest but most interesting tourist VIA EMAIL LONG BEACH, CA curiosities, the Prora, a failed Nazi Finding Hotel Deals No to Five-Star Hotels beachfront monstrosity that today is Great column last month on hotel While I have usually enjoyed your a three-mile series of abutting, iden- deals in Europe. A potential source you Dear Subscriber articles, recently they tical buildings once meant to be a didn’t mention was to call the hotels have not been holding my attention. 20,000-guest holiday resort for the directly. Certainly domestically the You seem to be drifting away from masses. national booking arms of the big chains discussing and informing us about the Just outside Wreechen, one of the seem to only be aware of the system- hidden gems in the small towns of Ger- island’s tiniest villages, is the Wreech- wide deals and know few details of the many, Switzerland, and Austria. er Hof, a gathering of thatched-roof, local ones. Despite the instantaneous May's discussion of luxury hotels white bungalows set on 10,000 square exchange of information on the web, might as well come from a Condé Naste meters of colorful flower beds and local managers sometimes offer specials magazine. Even after all of your discus- clipped lawns intersected by walk- for short periods of time or involving a sion in the article, you ended it by say- ways of red and gray pavers. A yel- limited numbers of rooms, tweak deals ing that you would always be more low awning shelters an inviting out- for unique features that their hotels offer comfortable with the "...late night cold door terrace next to a placid lily pond. (reserve for you rooms in better parts of beer...". This is relaxed, easy-to-live-in luxury, the hotel, view rooms, those farthest at amazing prices. The 43 guestrooms from elevators or parking lots, discount I think most of your subscribers apportioned among the seven cottag- or eliminate fees for parking, internet would too, that's ALWAYS been why es are five-star in terms of size and access, breakfasts, etc.) that national and we stayed with you! quality of furnishings. All are international desks are unaware of. I really don't care to read any equipped with satellite TV, radio, free Also, a surprising number of the more about Berlin. There again, the Internet connection, phone, and free Grande Marque hotels now have affilia- shiny magazines beat that to death. use of the sauna, swimming pool, and tions with large-system hotel operators, How about the Gasthaus's in the tiny fitness equipment. Starwood and Fairmont, for example. towns of the Schwarzwald? (Those The hotel’s outstanding restaurant You can often get deals through these family-run places that nobody else deserves its red Karte designation affinity associations with membership finds.) Those subjects are what I hope from Michelin. points. In addition, the combination of to see each month when my newslet- ter arrives. But it seems that I'm be- A double room for a week in high using points and a surprisingly small coming more disappointed each season is about e800 with breakfast. amount of cash can often yield a room month at the lack of this meaty infor- Adding a three-course dinner for two in a fine hotel for a small fraction of the mation. PLEASE don't get like the rest adds another e420, making the cost of normal cost. For example, the four star of them, the newsstands are full of a one-week stay around $1,600. One- Intercontinental Hotel in Paris has them and they are not about travel at week rates for a four-person apart- always occupied a great location on the all, only about spending lots of mon- ment with living room, terrace, bed- Rue du Rivoli in the next block from Le ey at their advertiser's establishments. room and kitchen start at e735, with Meurice and within easy walking dis- dinner another e210 per person, tance of the Louvre. It has been re- Yes, I realize it takes more "hitting bringing the price for a one-week stay branded Paris Westin, completely reno- the ground" to come up with the kind of for four to just under $2,200. vated, and is now a Starwood member. stuff that many of us want. If that's get- The layout is exactly the same as the ting too hard for you to do, perhaps we Contact: Hotel Wreecher Hof, Kast- George V with a beautiful, central, open can discuss a position at Gemütlichkeit anienallee, D-18581 Putbus, tel. +49/ air garden. The staff speaks English and for me! 038301-850, [email protected], the concierge group is terrific. One can www.wreecher-hof.de/. MIKE HARASEVIAT secure a room for $150 and one-third the VIA EMAIL

Gemütlichkeit 8 June 2009

75985_06Gemut 8 6/5/09, 9:15 AM