Schaffhausen, Etc

DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Remembering Schaffhausen, etc. Were I to make a list of the 100 places in Germany, Austria and Schaffhausen Switzerland European travelers should see before they die, the Though best known as a German river, the Rhine starts in the Swiss Alps. Early in Rhine Falls would probably be on its journey it passes the frequently overlooked medieval Swiss city of Schaffhausen. it. While not as high or imposing as chaffhausen is a city that com- city life unfold at a leisurely pace. Niagra, Victoria Falls in South Afri- bines the medieval, the mod- ca, or Brazil’s Iguassu Falls, and On the Rhine River in the most Sern, plus everything in be- northern part of Switzerland, almost probably others around the world, tween—and manages to do it with they are pretty impressive when an island in a sea of Germany, Schaff- style, much like a woman who has you’re in that little boat at their hausen was already a thriving market lived a long time, base. Sharon Hudgins’ lead story by Sharon Hudgins town when it received its city charter still wears elegant on Schaffhausen—the logical place in 1045. The name probably derives clothes that never go out of fashion, to stay when visiting the Falls— from Schiffhausen (boat houses), refer- maintains a contemporary outlook, brought memories of our first ring to the little wooden sheds along and is comfortable with the contrast Schaffhausen visit in 1987, Gemütli- the river that sheltered the boats that between present and past. chkeit’s earliest days. We stayed at plied the Rhine’s blue waters and the Park Villa (see page 4) in a Such a place attracts the kind of brought prosperity to the city’s mer- room featuring a turret with a 270- visitor who enjoys wandering through chants (especially salt traders). degree view. (I think it’s the one cobblestone streets and narrow lanes, Today Schaffhausen is the capital shown on the hotel’s website with a gazing at historic houses, listening to of the Swiss canton of the same name. carved wood canopy bed. You can the burble of flower-bedecked foun- Most of its winding border is with see the opening to the turret at the tains, or just sitting in a sidewalk cafe Germany, except for a small section right of the photo.) on a spacious square, sipping cups of on the southeast side which touches dark, hot chocolate while watching canton What I remember most about on the Swiss of Zürich. Continued on page 3… that visit was dinner at Fischerzun- ft, then a new, rising Michelin- starred restaurant much-praised in Stay a Little Longer Gourmet Magazine. This was when ast month we talked about the Nouvelle Cuisine—tiny servings, ties, and a greater range of services. financial and cultural advan- every plate of food a work of art — Room rates frequently include meals, L tages of house and apartment usually dinner and breakfast. Orga- was much in vogue and, with its rental as an alternative to the practice Chinese-French fusion dishes, Fis- nized guests activities are typical, of frequent moves from hotel-to-hotel cherzunft was one of Switzerland’s even in some less expensive hotels, and city-to-city. Self-catering is a leading practitioners. It was said to and can include outdoor buffets with strategy we highly live music, group hikes, exercise be the Aga Khan’s (remember by Bob Bestor recommend but there’s him?) favorite restaurant. Expen- classes, sleigh rides, even cooking another to be considered, one em- sive? Of course. Even then the classes. A one or two-page newslet- ployed by millions of Europeans but fixed-price menu was $59 per per- ter setting out the day’s activities is relatively few North Americans— son—for an astonishingly small often distributed at breakfast. Many extended hotel stays. Though they’ve amount of food. As I wrote in the high-end family hotels, especially in gotten used to it over the past 15-20 September, 1987, issue: “at the end Austria, offer childcare and super- years, many European hoteliers are of the meal one had the feeling of vised activities for children. puzzled by our need to pack up and having dined on a series of light The experience of settling-in for a leave after just a day or two. Vacation hors d’oeuvres. Another feeling week or more at a peaceful European hotels in Germany, Austria and Swit- was hunger.” The service was stiff country hotel (most vacation hotels zerland are geared for longer stays. and formal; after each pouring, our Rooms are often larger than in busi- Continued on page 6… expensive bottle of wine was re- ness-oriented hotels, there are more Exchange rates as of 6/1/09 moved and put on a sideboard out 1 euro = $1.41 recreation facilities, more and larger of our reach—a pretentious practice 1 Swiss franc = $0.93 public spaces, planned guest activi- Continued on page 2… 1 gallon diesel, Germany=$5.56 www.gemut.com June 2009 75985_06Gemut 1 6/5/09, 9:15 AM www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com DEAR SUBSCRIBER the food at Alte Rheinmühle USA. Here’s a tip: Buy regular trip Continued from page 1 (www.alte-rheinmuehle.ch), over- insurance but with zero coverage looking the river, was very good. for trip cancellation. That way you that never fails to raise my hackles. get the medical coverage without Shaky might be another word to de- **** Those who should know tell me trip cancellation insurance, which scribe the service; while pouring our you may not need unless you have wine, the young server held the bottle the famous Christmas markets of western Europe have become over- high nonrefundable, prepaid trip by its very bottom, thumb-in-punt commercialized, sometimes impossi- expenses such as for a cruise or (indentation at the bottom of the bot- bly crowded venues, that have house rental. Here’s how to do it. tle), a daunting procedure for very strayed from their former emphasis Go to www.gemut.com, click “Buy small hands. We held our breath at on handmade merchandise pro- travel insurance” in the upper left each pour as the bottle gyrated and duced by highly-skilled craftsmen hand corner of the page. On the looked like it might slip from her hand. and women. The more authentic subsequent page indicate your Other than the scant servings, the markets, I am told, are in towns of state; California, Nebraska, etc., most unsettling part of this disap- the former Eastern Bloc such as Pra- then click the “Buy Now” button pointing evening was the infant in a gue, Krakow, and Warsaw. That’s on Travel Guard’s Platinum cover- baby carriage at the next table who why for a true old-time Christmas age. When you fill in the form put fussed and cried throughout the market experience we recommend “0” in the “‘trip cost” box. You’ll entire evening. Karen Pasold’s Christmas Markets of find that a couple in their early Fischerzunft still gets a Michelin Imperial Europe" tour, a 12-night itin- ‘70s can get $50,000 in medical star, though I have heard the por- erary that visits Prague, Krakow, expenses coverage and $1 million tions are more substantial these Warsaw, Pilsen, Leipzig and Dres- in emergency evacuation coverage, days. At current exchange rates, the den. At $4,490 it’s more expensive for a little over $50 each. You’ll top fixed-price menu is about $165 but you’ll get much more for your also get the policy’s lost baggage per person. On the premises now, money —most dinners and lunches, and trip delay insurance plus a however, is a second restaurant, the first-class rail with double sleeper few other perks.—RHB less-expensive Vinopium which compartments, five-star hotels, the Using Gemütlichkeit gets Michelin’s “good food at mod- Prague ballet, etc. — than with the • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts erate prices” designation. My rec- assembly-line major tour operators. are often available for longer stays. ommendation is to drive or take the Ms. Pasold who is bursting with • All hotel prices include breakfast unless other- train 22 km to the quaint village of energy and knowledge of Eastern wise noted. Stein am Rhein and have fresh fish Europe, personally leads her small • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. To phone dinner on the terrace of the Hotel group each year. Contact: Classic establishments from outside the country, such Rheinfels directly on the Rhine. Europe, 1 Glenmoor, Frisco TX as from the USA, do not dial the first “0”. A pretty Rhine town near Schaff- 75034, tel. 972-625- 6050, email [email protected]. Logging on to Our Website hausen is Büsingen. Though physi- Back issues in PDF format from January 1993, except cally in Switzerland it is a German **** for the most recent 10, are available free to subscribers exclave whose citizens drive cars We get a lot of questions about only at www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To with German plates and pay taxes in where to buy overseas medical in- access the issues, enter the user name and password published in this space each month. The new codes are: Germany. The currency though is surance from readers on Medicare User Name: house Password: 4141 the Swiss franc. Last time I was there who don’t have coverage outside the Vol.

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