AZORLA Cand Its Parador Mater Amantissima (Ever- Loving Mother) of Rivers and Mountains

AZORLA cAnd Its Parador Mater Amantissima (Ever- Loving Mother) Of Rivers And Mountains

Oh Guadalquivir! I saw you being born in Cazorla... A gurgle of clear water, Below a green pine tree, It was you; how beautifully you sounded

Antonio Machado

azorla is not meant to reveal the why C and the how, nor the where to and the where from of its ever coming and going people. What is clear is its rightful attri- bute, Mater Amantissima (ever-loving mother). But it is also known as Mater Intemerata (fearless mother): it turns out she is a goddess as generous as she is unbending…

2 Cazorla and almost all of its surrounding regions are as unusual as they are multi-faceted: their extremely peculiar customs, han- ded down from intricate ages past; their complex origins; their ancient traditions…along with their cuisine, art, and craftworks. And let’s not forget their language and languages, at times deformed, but uniquely their own.

Any visitor —even the least curious— will discover rather gratifying and unexpected surprises throughout the region and its overhanging mountain sierras: surprises in its art, its landscape; in its people, its cultures. Or even in its folklore and ancestral rituals.

Cazorla is a must for any repentant or unrepentant traveler: he or she will never regret the trip. This is the will of its people, nestled in pine-treed valleys or peaks at cloud-level, whose haughty, overbearing and humble—but never humiliated—perspectives reveal the simple and austere customs of these beings and their dwellings. This is a mountain people, by choice and by imperious necessity. They are also lovers —by force— of their inhospitable landscape, as beautiful as it is, sometimes, treacherous. And sometimes inclement as well. This undaunted rocky massif lies steep above all the venial affairs of Jaén; it is a bountiful spring, where rivers and streams like the Guadalquivir or the Segura find their source. Its luscious, abundant, and vibrant pine tree forests have even christened it as the “Spanish Switzerland.”

Thus, these lands have been and will always be frontier territory, isolated due to necessity. They live with and share their coplas and musical laments —rightful cries and claims as well, as this copla tells us:

“…There are those who say Jaén is not my Andalusian land… Ay, my Jaén…”

But the people of Jaén are neither snobby nor conceited; they are even less arrogant. This is what they are: these people know it—they simply claim to be what they are: haughty and proud olive growers. It is a concealed humbleness, however. 3 All too many of these areas hide within them rather unrivalled treasures, such as Linares, Úbeda, Baeza…

These beautiful, though abrupt, peaks have given birth to solitary and noble rivers like the Guadalquivir, who ends up feeding and feeding on not- hing other than the Atlantic Ocean; and even its humblest rivers, who pour out into the Medi- terranean, do so just as proudly.

At any rate, all water bodies ferti- lize vast territories, which, rather easily, have grown large pine woods, including spontaneously amazing fauna and flora. It landscape encompasses around seventy-six thousand hectares.

In this generous environment deer, fallow deer, mountain rams and sheep live peacefully together; mountain goats still survi- ve in the area as well. It is still possible to enjoy unique endemic flora, such as the so-called “Violet of Cazorla,” the “Aguileña,” or the “Grasilla.” The curious passerby will know how to find them and will discover, perhaps, many more. The Cazorla, Segura, and Las Villas Natio- nal Parks beckon the traveler to come and discover its opulent surprises and pleasant walkways. On account of the mountains sierras or the mere enjoyment of its nature, the traveler’s soul will be obliged to come back once more. Each season of the year reserves and offers indescribable and breathtaking beauty. Winter prepares the land for the sudden burst of colors which herald the long anticipated arrival of spring. Spring, in turn, gives way to all kinds of animal species, flowers, and fruits. In the summertime, then, fiestas, happiness, and lights come to life, alongside those eternal evenings and friendly nights. Autumn’s landscapes become enveloped in ocher, yellow, and brown sounds: the deer’s rutting season is dawning…

It seems as though nature decided to bless the traveler so that he or she might admire this mountain massif, of complex and overw- helming terrain, with the luscious greenery of its vegetation. The intense green color is suddenly interrupted by the crags of the cal- careous rocks. These, in turn, contrast with the reddish rocky soil of the lowlands.

This is indeed a tormented landscape, where the streams and river beds carve and hollow out the bedrocks and stones. 4 Waterfalls of incomparable beauty are born here, and once they have been tamed, they flow calmly through the gorges and canyons.

These magic parks extend over a surface area greater than two thousand hectares. This mountainous region includes the Sierras of Cazorla, the Segura, and Las Villas; throughout this province the largest protected natural park of the Peninsula dominates over all beings and places.

The park offers numerous mountain ranges: these regions give way to others such as the Sierra del Pozo, the Sierra del Castril, the Sierra de Cabrilla, the Almorchón and many others of enviable beauty. Others are born from the highest of Guadalquivires, its weather the designer of capricious and baroque land surfaces. The numerous rivers and streams of the area create a unique landscape, from their birth in Cañada de las Fuentes, and from the Segura River onwards.

The curious traveler and explorer will have the privilege of seeing various animal species, such as boars, mountain goats, deer, fallow deer, civets, and others in their natural habitat.

Along with the region’s historic and artistic heritage, its natural landscape’s treasures are a fundamental aspect. The Sierra Morena embodies the transition between the highlands of the Mancha region and Andalusia, and the hidden Sierra Magina, where the province’s highest peaks look over numerous and unexplored bends and twists. Anywhere here is a true delight and is highly gratifying. Along with all of these wonders, the mountainous region also has an excellent cultural heritage, especially the ethnological and the architectural. All of the area’s towns also display that unique Anda- lusian authenticity, such as Huelma and Belmes el de la Moradela. Along the same open pathway between the sierra of Campillo and the sierra La Cabrita lies the deep ravine formed by the Salado stream, which boasts of a spectacular viaduct, worthy of the Eiffel Tower’s own iron.

On the same path the landscape becomes even more highlighted. We suddenly run into the great treasure of La Magina, with its awesome Albu- querques family castle and the glo- rious church of the Immaculate.

In these surroundings, human settlements

are

The Beginning Of Time O nce again, in the words of Antonio Machado: “Place a coalminer, a sage, and a poet out on the fields… You shall see how the poet admires and hushes, how the sage looks and thinks… Surely the coalminer will look for blackbe- rries or mushrooms. Take them to the theater, and only the coalminer will not yawn. Whoever prefers that which is live to that which is painted. Is he who thinks, sings, or dreams. The coalminer’s mind is filled with imagination.”

This whole province is the daughter and niece of the mountain ranges within the Sierra Morena system. Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, and other invaders—some of them rather benevolent—have all flowed through these valleys. This area has witnessed a mixture of religions, cultures, customs, and beneficial crops, especially han- ded down by the Arabs. The latter perfected water irrigation systems, while the Jewish, Muslim, and Christian religions intermingled. The Muslims made a pact with the Christians—they decided it was best to share knowledge, art, craftsmanship, and customs. These ‘invaders’ taught our Peninsula arts and customs which developed into the mudéjar style. They gave us mos- ques, fortresses, water- mills, windmills, irrigation canals…

The city of Jaén shows us the powerful legacy that Arabic culture left for posterity. For example, one may still visit the Arab baths, as well as other later historical milestones, along with unique battle sites, such as the Las Navas de Tolosa. Legendary chroni- cles say that in this 6 battle the famous Miramamolín was defeated, becoming a symbol of the Chris- tian conquest of Andalucía. The town of Bailén also was a great military victory for the Spanish troops, directed by General Castaños, fighting against Napoleonic Dupont troops at the beginning of the War of Independence.

On Avenida de la Estación (Station Avenue), we may still find the Provincial Museum, located in a wonderful building from 1914, with a Renaissance-style façade, added later to the older Municipal Deposit. The Provincial Museum withholds important funds from the older museums of Archaeology and Fine Arts, both now inexistent.

A collection of Iberian, Greek, Roman, and Arab ceramic pieces are of special interest, all of them being from the area. We may also admire the cave paintings in the Cave of the Granja de Jimena, the Iberian Lions of Alvarsanchez de Úbeda de Torres, and in the Rece- na or Requena patio-house, the so-called Goddess of Espona.

Cazorla is a pretty town with narrow streets, on a slope under the shade of the Peña de los Halcones. The town was born in the 16th century b. C., although known as Castaón, it would become Carcesa under Rome, and later the Arab Conquerors would call it Medina Cuasturra. Fernando III “The Saint” would then be the one to sign, in Salamanca in 1231, a document giving under perpetual domi- nion of Santa María of Toledo these territories. Once the territories were conquered, they became part of what was known as the Ade- 7 lantado (Development) of Cazorla. Its jurisdiction lasted till 1811, when the Courts of Cádiz abolished all lordships. This was a remarkably true fact—the neighbors from Cazorla stood out from the rest for their patriotism in the fierce fight during the War of Independence. To prize their steadfast high service, the Courts of Cádiz would grant the City of Cazorla this title: “A Very Noble and Very Loyal City.”

Finally, Alphonse III rewarded Cazorla’s loyalty to the Crown during the Carlist Wars with the title of Most Excellent Town. Walking Through Cazorla’s Villas And Towns

ituated at the foot of the Peña de los Halcones, it proudly S offers a delightful set of popular architecture wonderfully blended in with its surroundings. This, along with its wealth of monuments, allowed it to be declared as a Historical- Artistic Heritage Site in 1972.

Its monuments deserve to be visited on a slow stroll —the Castle of Yedra, also known as the Four Corners Castle, originally Roman, but rebuilt and fortified under the Arabs. Nowadays it houses the Museum of Popular Customs and Arts. The other Cas- tle, Salvatierra, difficultly accessible, is found on a peak known as the “Breast of Salvatierra,” Arab in origin. During the Reconquista, it played an important role.

Churches: Santa María, Carmen , San Francisco, and San José. Santa María Church was, no doubt, the most important monument, located on the Cerezuelo river. In 1694, a great flood completely destroyed this monumental jewel.

The Church of the Carmen consists in a nave and a semi-tran- sept of lateral chapels. Its design dates back to the end of the 17th century. It is filled with harmony. The Fountain of Chains (Fuente de las Cadenas) is set in one of the most important corners of Plaza Santa María; it dates back from the Renaissance. The House of the Seven Fountains (La Casa de las Siete Fuentes), ruins of a Roman nymph garden, is located near Plaza Santa María. The traveler will be delighted to find many serendipitous monuments, to be found while strolling peacefully through the streets.

Only the wise or intuitive walker will choose, without any risk whatsoever, the path which he or she finds most attractive; in this environment one may suddenly encounter surprises of all sorts and unusual kinds —art, folklore. Cuisine, peculiar uses of a 8 linguistic twists. One may also find interesting craftsmanship, the peculiar customs of the locals, or the unexpected world of plants—no, not just trees, but an endless variety of plants, insignificant upon first glance, but that will delight any passerby, curious or otherwise.

Plants like the “Acederas”, humble plants used to make excellent salads may be found alongside others, like the “Berros,” known in other nearby areas as “Maruja” or “Pamplina”, favo- rite vegetable creatures that grow along the nervous little streams and their welcoming backwaters filled with fish and other plants. Right above all this earthly wonder, in perfect symbiosis, the lands is shared by and nurtures noble trees and bushes, such as the Oak, Juniper, peculiar pine tree species, and many other endemic ones. All this is set in brushes with Sabina bushes of the dragging variety. Descending, we may appreciate Wild Olive Trees, little grapes from the berberidaceae family, Hazelnuts, Climber Madreselva, Sage Bushes, and Peonias.

More plants await the curious traveler: the Spartum (Grami- neae), Lentiscus (Anacardiaceae)…and, of course, the Cazorla Violet. Above all, the Olive Tree, so appreciated in these lands as a miraculous home made product, but poorly commerciali- zed. The cultivation and commercialization of this oil, nevertheless, proudly claims to be one of the best of these and many other lands. Blessed Protector Beasts

he so-called animal population is neither a danger nor a T decoration. They boast being the best guardians of these woods—they are all a guarantee of the delicate balance of this whole complicated ecosystem. 9 From here, these magical panoramas offer the traveler with a spectacular insight and shared living with some rather special species, rare and sparsely inhabiting the landscape: the Moun- tain Goat is the Queen Mother of all cliffs and crags; accompa- nied, of course, by the Deer, the Fallow Deer, and the relentless Boar—indestructible invader wherever he decides to settle.

Its birds have always been and will forever be the queens of the heavens: throughout these cliffs we may see many special jewels of bird species: the Lion Vulture, the Partridge Eagle, the Azor, the King Owl… or even the Water Blackbird, the Fisher Martin, the legendary Carabo, Oropendo- las with haughty feat- hers...

Living beside them, we may find reptiles, the Snout Viper, the Bastard Snake, and Lizards of all sizes.

In the waters of rivers and streams “Carnete, Saca Y Mete Y Moja Sopicas En El Aceite”

“…My brunette’s eyes Are neither tiny Nor are they big; They’re black olives From lush olive groves…”

José Chamorro, Official Feature Writer of the Province

n prehistoric times, the inhabitants roasted meat by han- I ging it over a fire. Until they realized that it turned out bet- ter by cooking it on a rock slab over charcoal embers…

The cuisine of Jaén is fundamentally linked to the garden and the corral. In these parts, all kinds of vegetables are prepared and cooked: those coming from the garden, and those wild ones from the mountains, or from the fields, riverbanks and streams. Vegetables such as tender Cardoons, Collejas (Cariofilaceae), Ver- dolagas (Portulacaceae) , the White Truffle (godmother 10 of the so called Camuña variety); and on rare occasions, the ‘Esconzonela’... And many more juicy vegetable treats, just as wild as they are tasty.

Rightfully and tastefully so, the local people—modest but also proud—boast, enjoy and offer at least two seasonal menus: one, for the summer months, and another for the winter season. For these are the two extremes.

Gazpachos or Cold Salads; or otherwise, hot gazpachos and salads. Some from the highlands, others from the towns and cities. Everything is wisely prepared and shared: the Gachas Porridge, Migas (fried bread- crumbs), Cocido Stew…made with chickpeas, of course, and necessarily so; always cooked on olive wood: “…the father used to always sit at the head of the table...he would put out his ciga- rette on the heel of his boot, looking at us all, like a satisfied patriarch looking over his flock…” And thus, from times long gone—quite likely from wise and generous Arab customs—Arab recipes and stews would arise, such as “Andrajos” (rabbit strip stew) or “Calandrajos.” Or “Gachas”, heirs of the Italian polenta. And still “Gachas Migas,” (polenta with breadcrums) “Hormigós”, and “Ajoharina” (garlic and flour).

But the Arab world wished to give us even more and even tastier delights: they taught us the flavor of the Artichoke, as delicious as it is strange; and in terms of sweets, such as Alfeñiques (sugary paste, cooked and stretched out) and Alfajores (a honey-based nougat). Or the “Almoronía” (vegetable stew). All of the above not without that magic condiment, nowadays universal, that is, olive oil. Orange and lemon juice, as well.

In those days of communion between Christians and Muslims, different cultures, religions, art forms, customs, languages, and craftsmanship all lived together, inevitably permeating one another. The former and the latter switched and alternated roles —at times invaders at others the invaded— while the frontiers were not well defined and constantly shifting. Legends and conquests of all sorts arose form this mixture, as contradictory as the following one:

“...During one of these truces from com- 11 bat, Miramamolín got married, inviting the different kings from the different ‘Spains.’ This was, no doubt, proof of that tolerance, and voluntary permeability amongst peoples of different ethnicities, cultures, religions, and customs. The menu was simple and consisted of dried lima bean soup with eggplants, always present , and preferably wild.” The legend goes on to tell that, “...since that flavorful dish so pleased Don Alphonse VIII, he wanted to know its name… but as the recipe was fruit of the moment, he at least requested that the cook’s name be revealed to him. The Moorish king replied that that dish had been prepared by one of his wives, named Almoronac. With reverent admiration the monarch decided to baptize the wonderfully delicious dish as “Almoronía”. THE SECRET RECIPES

GAZPACHO AND GAZPACHOS

It is a well known fact that there is more than one type of gazpacho; there are also Gazpachuelos and other Gazpachos—just as deserving of their own category and stars. In all categories, each region, even each town, gives its own unique flavor and touch. Throughout these lands, these miraculous cold soups turn out to be wisely garnished by the people’s creativity, depending on the landscape and soil; at times it is tradition, at others, necessity. At any rate, Gazpacho –they say- must be prepared in a wooden dornillo (today it is a rare sort of container). Always or preferably eaten during the summer months, and as cold as possible.

Raw legumes and vegetable salads dressed with vinegar, olive oil and salt are never absent. Salads made with Lettuce, or Tomato, Cardoons, Green Beans; Cucumber Relishes or even Melon salads, Partridge or Pork Loin ones as well. Deserving a side note, la Pipirrana is the secret exclusive dish of these lands of Jaén. Let’s not forget those Pistos (a sort of ratatouille), prepared with garden vegetables, such as zucchini, peppers, and eggplants. There is a time and a season for everything and everyone, however. In autumn, Pomegranates, the mother of punches, and Quinces…and above all, mushroom varieties, such as Níscalos (saffron milk cap ) and Cardonchas.

Hot soups could not be forgotten: the so called ‘Sopilla Boba’ (Silly Soup), a surprising Cocido broth with surprising flavors, almost entirely unique to “Los Villares”. Or the ‘Sopa de Picadillo.’ And “Ajos de Habas” (Lima Bean Garlic), 12 “Ajos de Patata” (Potato Garlic), “Ajos de Pepino” (Cucumber Garlic).

MYSTERIOUS LITTLE TRICKS

These lands and its people have known, on account of history and the rules set by the landscape, to turn necessity into a virtue: they have learnt how to make the most of their poor inherited surroundings in a practical way. All in all, they were and are a crea- tive people; in their culture, music, art, and as well in their culinary craftsmanship. We are going to only mention a handful of these magical recipes, unusual but common. Here are Manuel García Ortega’s recipes:

FRIED LOCAL RADISH PEELS

Carefully peel the radishes, so that you end up with strips of its peel about 1 cm long. Soak them in cold water and then drain them. They are to be covered in a flour, egg, milk, salt and a little baking soda batter. Fry immediately in hot olive oil.

PIPIRRANA

“Pipirrana” is a dish with obscure origins, and in the past was part of everyday subsistence. Some scholars suggest that, perhaps, bandits from the Sierra Morena gave this dish its current name. The recipe: A little garlic, green bell peppers, tomatoes; some bread. Olive oil, vinegar, salt, and one hard boiled egg. In a wooden dornillo (mixing bowl), crush the garlic and the green pepper. Slowly add the olive oil, and then add the peeled tomatoes along with some drops of vinegar. Finally add the hard boiled egg, mixing well the yolk into the sauce. Serve with bread.

AJOBLANCO (WHITE GARLIC)

All you need is a handful of almonds, but not very dry ones. Gar- lic, a tomato, olive oil, vinegar, and salt. Crush the almonds alongside the garlic and the peeled tomato. Add the rest of ingredients to taste. This is a variation of the usual Gazpacho.

NÍSCALO (SAFFRON MILK CAP MUSHROOM) SAUCE

This is prepared using a little fried saffron milk cap mushrooms, some garlic cloves, and a spoonful of flour; a glass of white wine, and a hint of thyme. Purée the mushrooms in a blender. Fry the garlic cloves, previously crushed in a mortar with salt. In a cooking pot, prepare a light paste with the wine, mushrooms, garlic and the hint of thyme; allow it to come to a boil, and serve when ready according to taste. Mountain Excursions: Pleasant Visits

n the following section, we suggest our divine guest some I reasonable getaways, so that he or she may enjoy the shepherding and flavorful aspects of these almost completely untouched regions—pleasant walks and hikes along any one of these peaks, sierras, cliffs, and peaceful backwaters…

The following are some of the most highly recommended sites to be visited in this area:

La Torre del Vinagre (The Vinegar Tower). This is a privi- leged watch-tower from which to start off your journey in this magical landscape. The Museum of la Torre del Vinagre is a basic interpretation/ planning center for the traveler to pleasantly get a sense of the area. The Museum houses within it the Hunting Museum, or Museo de la Caza. It displays various trophies, in the context of history and prehistory, along with all the passions, feats, and legends of the now almost extinct traditional hunts. On one occasion, General Franco was supported and helped by a generous mountain ranger here. There is also a botanical garden.

14 Beas de Segura. Santa Teresa stayed here in the Carme- lite Convent once. Nearby we may find an achense archaeo- logical site.

Segura de la Sierra. Without a doubt, the most interesting place to visit. It was conquered in the year 1200. It boasts a mudéjar style castle, Arab baths, and a Town Hall façade in plateresco style (16th century). There also lies the controversial house in which Jorge Manrique was supposedly born; others claim, however, that he was born in Paredes de Nava. The splendor of this town reached its peak in the 16th century. Its log- ging industry was quite important.

Quesada. For those interested in getting to know where the River Guadalquivir is born, this town is a must.

At any rate, should the traveler have extra time, please feel free to enquire at the Parador’s reception desk. The towns and places to see are many more, such as Hórnos and La Puerta de Segura.

Úbeda and Baeza

Úbeda: Lying on the hillock of Úbeda, and surrounded by the mountains by the same name, it is the capital of Andalusian Renaissance. It reached its its golden age in the 16th century. From the Medieval period, we may still admire the Clock Tower, the Tower of Homage, the Cava Tower, and the Rastro Tower. From Renaissance period, the following monuments stand out: the Plaza de Vázquez de Molina, as part of a monument set next to the Sacra Capilla del Salvador (Chapel of the Sacred Savior); The Palace of Deán Ortega, currently housing the Tourism Parador, Palacio de las Cadenas (Palace of Chains), the Town Hall, and the Church of Santa María.

Úbeda still preserves many renaissance buildings. Lovers of arts and crafts are in the perfect place to purchase ceramic items, crafts made with esparto grass, and metal work pieces.

Baeza: One of the oldest Bishop seats in Spain, from the 4th to the 13th centuries. The “El Torrito” tower remains as one of the fortress towers from the old town, with coats of arms of the Cat- holic Kings. From its era of splendor—the 16th and 17th centuries—stand out the Market Plaza (Mercado), the People’s Market (Pópulo), and the Alhóndiga, el Pósito, la Carni- cería, and la Audiencia Civil buildings. Also, the Town Hall and the University.

The City Of Jaen — Province Capital

If you are not pressed by time, it is worth it to visit the Cathe- dral in Santa María Plaza, and the Arab baths, apparently built in the 11th century by Ali, the Moorish king of Jaén. Also interesting are the Magdalena Church, the Santa Clara one, and San Ildefonso. The Bishops’ Palace as well as the City Walls.

Don’t miss a visit to the Parador of the city of Jaén –it’s spectacular. For those who love good food, this here is a city where the traveler will find mag- nificently delightful dishes. Parador de Cazorla El Adelantado Sierra Cazorla, s/n. 23470 Cazorla (Jaén) Tel.: +34 953 72 70 75 - Fax: +34 953 72 70 77 e-mail: [email protected] Reservation Center Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: +34 902 54 79 79 - Fax: +34 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Text: Juan G. D’Atri y Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar