ISSN 1854-0805 (business culture environment politics sports) 09 October 09

Bled Strategic Forum on the economic crisis and period after it contents Veronika Stabej Different dialogues

After the brief summer, we have already marched resolutely into autumn, which is bringing quite a few shifts in many areas. The Government is determined to overcome the economic and financial crisis, and help for businesses will be enhanced by what is called economic diplomacy, which covers the activities of diplomatic missions in the area of promoting the Slovenian economy in foreign markets and thereby securing help for it in its internationalisation. Fulfilment of this challenging task will involve the services of Slovenian ambassadors working in almost 50 countries around the world.

The Politics of Economic Crisis: Redefining Economic and Geopolitical Landscapes in Europe and Eurasia was the title of the fourth international conference of the Bled Strategic Forum, which was attended by more than 420 foreign and Slovenian participants, including numerous senior politicians, heads of international organisations and business leaders. One of the panellists at the round table conference was Andreu Claret, executive director of the Anna Lindh Foundation, the Euro- Mediterranean foundation for intercultural dialogue, and we are publishing an interview with him. The guiding principle of the foundation is developing dialogue between Mediterranean cultures and civilisations, or as Mr. Claret says, “it is not about 30-33 Slovenian delights 41-43 Natural Trails abstract cultures, but about the people who live in this region,” Beekeeping in Slovenia and also about strengthening Euro-Mediterranean partnership, The taste of the Alpine dairy while the active cooperation of Slovenia in the foundation can contribute to the greater presence and recognisability of Slovenia 06-11 In Focus 38-40 People 20-25 Art and Culture in this region. Bled Strategic Forum Maja Kojc, oboe soloist Discovering the artistic quarter An intensive and innovative approach to strengthening Slovenian innovation and entrepreneurship has been taken by the restorer Igor Ravbar with his wooden masterpieces and by the agronomist Borut Benedejčič with his plans for revitalising the Karst. Read more about this in the section Our excellence.

In the letters from ambassadors we bring you up to date on efforts to secure respect of children’s rights and on the years of Slovenia’s foreign policy efforts to improve the position of the most vulnerable social groups, which include of course children and adolescents. Despite the fact that they are protected under the international Convention on the Rights of the Child, the rights of children are violated every day in many parts of the world. It is right for us to be aware of them, to draw attention to them and also to talk openly about them. During the Week of the Child, on 6 and 7 October 2009 Slovenia will host an International Conference on Children’s Rights and Protection Against Violence, which we believe will contribute to improving the protection of these highly sensitive rights. You can read more on this in our upcoming issue.

Sinfo – Slovenian information Editorial: Government Commnunication Office, Director: Veronika Stabej, Gregorčičeva 25, 1000 Ljubljana, Government Communication Office:www.slovenia.si tel. +386 (0) 1 478 2630, fax + 386 (0) 1 251 2312, www.ukom.gov.si Government Communication Office:www.ukom.gov.si Editor-in-Chief: Vesna Žarkovič, [email protected] Government Institutions: www.gov.si Editorial Board: Albert Kos, Mateja Malnar Štembal, Valerija Mencej, Jože Osterman, Polona Prešeren, Slovenian Tourist Board: www.slovenia.info Andreja Šonc Simčič, Andrej Savelli, Branko Vidrih Slovenian Chamber of Commerce and Industry: www.gzs.si Photo Editor: Maja Slavec Slovenian Chamber of Craft: www.ozs.si Production: Nuit d.o.o., Translation: Amidas d.o.o., Printed by: Mond Grafika Public Agency of the RS for Entrepreneurship and Foreign Investments: www.japti.si Number of copies: 4600 Ljubljana Stock Exchange: www.ljse.si Available also at: www.ukom.gov.si/eng/slovenia/publication/sinfo Statistical Office of the Republic of Slovenia:www.stat.si Cover photo: Darinka Mladenovič State Portal of the Republic of Slovenia: http://e-uprava.gov.si m o n t h l y r e v i e w

Andrej Savelli is part of wider efforts to include citizens in processes of shap- conditions for them. Otherwise Pahor and Faymann devoted great ing Government policies and measures. The project opens up a attention in their talks to economic cooperation between Slovenia new communication channel between citizens and the state and and Austria. As the Austrian Chancellor pointed out, economic among citizens themselves. The main aim of the project is to relations between the two countries, even in the current difficult

Breakthrough in Bor Slana/Bobo photo: encourage the inhabitants of Slovenia to communicate opinions, economic conditions, are good and stable, but they could be im- initiatives and proposals for dealing with socially burning issues. proved further. Slovenia-Croatia talks The proposals that garner the majority support of registered users will be forwarded by the Office to the competent Government On 11 September, in talks between Prime Ministers Borut Pahor and body, which will have to take a view regarding the proposal. Jadranka Kosor in Ljubljana, Slovenia and Croatia came to an agree- Establishment of the web tool “predlagam.vladi.si” is envisaged by ment on the continuation of Croatia’s EU accession negotiations and on the end of October 2009. resolving their border dispute through the mediation of the European

Union. Croatian Prime Minister Jadranka Kosor sent to the Swedish EU Petelinšek/STA Tamino photo: Presidency a statement that no document in Croatia’s accession would Conference on illegal prejudice the border. In the letter, she also apprised the Swedish Presidency of the EU of the PM Borut Pahor visits Rome migrations, organised crime, agreement between the two sides to resolve the border dispute through international arbitration, as proposed by the European Commission, and and the Vatican corruption and terrorism negotiations over an arbitration agreement will continue where they were Brdo pri Kranju was the venue for the 9th Regional Ministerial left off on 15 June 2009. At that time the European Commissioner for Prime Minister Borut Pahor paid a working visit to Italy on Conference on illegal migrations, organised crime, corruption and Austrian Chancellor Werner Faymann and Slovenian Prime Minister Borut Enlargement, Olli Rehn, presented to Slovenia and Croatia the European 18 September, focusing in his talks with his counterpart Silvio terrorism. The first topic of the conference was visa liberalisation, Pahor addressing reporters after talks. Commission’s April proposal, partly supplemented by Slovenian propos- Berlusconi on economic cooperation between the countries and which Slovenia highlighted as a priority task even during its Presi- als, and this was acceptable for Slovenia, while Croatia rejected it, claiming the possibility of the neighbours’ companies jointly entering dency of the EU, and in one and a half years there have already Slovenia and China that Rehn’s April proposal was “take it or leave it”. After this the European foreign markets. The pair also debated budget drafting in times of been visible results of this effort, since three countries will in all Commission terminated its involvement in resolving the border issue. crisis. They moreover touched the issue of the Slovenian minority probability enter into a visa-free regime for travel to countries of seek to enhance relations In the new agreement, Croatia made a commitment to resolve the border in Italy, with Pahor expressing his hope that Italy will fulfil all its the European Union at the end of the year. The aim of the visa issue in accordance with the key priority tasks of the accession partnership obligations towards the Slovenian community in the country. liberalisation is the mobility of citizens, promoting contacts be- On 27th August the Deputy Prime Minister of China, Hui with the EU by mutual agreement, and that an agreement on the method Berlusconi assured Pahor that in the proposed budget for next tween people and economic cooperation between countries. Liangyu, and a sizeable economic delegation arrived for a three-day of resolving the border would be reached before a vote on the accession year the Italian government would not make any cuts to the mi- In the Brdo process, Slovenia is active in two other initiatives, official visit to Slovenia. treaty in the Slovenian parliament. In exchange, the Slovenian Govern- nority funding. Pahor and Berlusconi also discussed the planned specifically in the project to transfer best practices in the field of Prime Minister Borut Pahor and Hui affirmed the good relations ment, as was decided consensually on 10 September, proposed to the gas terminals in Aquilinia (Zavlje) near Trieste, which Slovenia the fight against terrorism, which also has support in the Swedish between the two countries, especially in the economic sphere, and foreign policy and EU affairs committees that Slovenia would withdraw opposes for environmental reasons. In the morning, Pahor also Presidency of the European Union, and the other project is an they expressed their interest in enhanced cooperation in this area. its restraints on the negotiating process between Croatia and the European met Vatican’s Secretary of State Tarcisio Bertone and Slovenian assessment of the threat from organised crime in south-eastern Pahor and Hui also talked about the economic crisis. Union. Cardinal Franc Rode. Europe. At this year’s regional conference in Brdo, a Memoran- The Slovenian Prime Minister detailed for Mr. Hui the efforts of the The two prime ministers also pointed out that this is an agreement that dum of Agreement was also signed between participating coun- Slovenian Government for Slovenia to weather the economic crisis, serves both nations and countries, and the interests of both countries have tries in the ILECU project, the aim of which is for all countries of including through an intensive presence in the Chinese market. In been taken into account. It is a joint success and a “win-win” situation in New content makes Vlada.si the Western Balkans to establish centres for international police this respect Slovenia ascribes great importance to its participation at which everyone is a winner, they stressed. According to Mr. Pahor, the Government portal even more cooperation. the world exhibition in Shanghai in 2010, stressed Pahor. agreement will enable the two countries perhaps indeed to open a new Hui was also received by Slovenian President Danilo Türk, who chapter in their relations, since alongside the border issue there are other user-friendly highlighted the importance of Slovenian transport routes for im- open questions in need of resolving. Calls for fulfilment proving economic cooperation between the two countries. Oth- On 15th September the parliamentary committees for European Affairs The Government’s web portal www.vlada.si is introducing two erwise the two focused their talks on the fulfilment of agreements and foreign relations gave the green light for continued Croatian acces- new services to try to make its work even more open to the of the Austrian State Treaty concluded by the Slovenian President with the highest Chinese sion negotiations, while the Swedish Presidency of the EU has called an public. The first change is a result of the desire for equal access representatives during his state visit to China last October. They also intergovernmental conference for 2 October in order to continue the to information and equal inclusion of deaf and hard of hearing On 26 August Slovenia was visited by the Austrian Chancellor devoted considerable attention to cultural cooperation. negotiations. Werner Faymann. Slovenia used the occasion to call on Austria persons in the living environment. The Government Com- A press conference of visiting Chinese Vice Premier Hui munication Office, following an initiative of the Association of to implement the Austrian State Treaty (AST). Prime Minister Liangyu (left) and Slovenian Prime Minister Borut Pahor Interpreters for Slovenian Sign Language and the Association of Borut Pahor reminded his Austrian counterpart that this was an after a meeting. Societies of the Deaf and Hard of Hearing of Slovenia submitted international obligation on his country. Faymann, however, stated to the Slovenian Prime Minister, and in the desire to help remove that the issue of bilingual topography required a political solution. photo: STA file photo STA photo: obstacles in communication owing to hearing difficulties, which Prime Minister Pahor added that he could not agree with such make it harder for the deaf and hard of hearing to access informa- an interpretation. Slovenian President Danilo Türk also pointed tion, decided to broadcast press conferences following meetings out in talks with the Austrian Chancellor that the problem of of the Government on the website www.vlada.si additionally in bilingual signs in Austrian Carinthia was a subject of fulfilment photo: Tamino Petelinšek/STA Tamino photo: Slovenian and Croatian Slovenian sign language. The first broadcast in sign language was under the AST and fulfilment of the decisions of the Austrian prime ministers, made on 27 August 2009. Constitutional Court. He added that a determination in carrying Borut Pahor out the decisions will also help in creating the necessary political and Jadranka Kosor The project “predlagam.vladi.si” (I propose.to the government.si)

  The Foreign Ministry organised the Forum in cooperation with the Centre for European Perspective, and regarding the topic of this year’s Forum – the economic crisis – the or- ganisers also highlighted that the costs of this year’s Forum were significantly lower than previous years. Participants also expressed sat- isfaction at the topics discussed at the Forum, which must certainly have offered them some real answers to the challenges of this crisis. Indeed the crisis can also act as a catalyst for finding solutions, Žbogar pointed out. The Foreign Minister also announced that, based on the discussions and conclusions of the Forum, the Foreign Ministry would be for- mulating certain guidelines to be used by the Slovenian diplomatic service, which started its regular annual consultation following the The panel economic challenges of the western Balkans at the 4th Bled Strategic Forum Forum. Slovenia’s diplomatic service made good use of the Forum at Bled to hold vari- crisis is a massive problem that can create On the sidelines of the Forum there ous bilateral meetings, in particular Sunday’s major tensions and instability, stressed the was also a series of bilateral meetings. meeting with Croatian Foreign Minister panel, which was also attended by Croatian One with particular importance was Vesna Žarkovič, Government Commnunication Office, photo: STA Gordan Jandroković and Slovakian Foreign Foreign Minister Jandroković. the meeting between Pahor, Žbogar Minister Miroslav Lajčak. A special success of and Jandroković regarding the border the Forum was the meeting between Lajčak The second panel highlighted the fact that dispute between the two countries and and his Hungarian counterpart, Peter Balazs, energy security must be based on ensuring Slovenia’s restraints on Croatia’s ne- on the economic crisis at which they agreed on a calming of the ten- energy efficiency, solidarity among coun- gotiations with the EU. No final agree- sions between their two countries and on a tries and a spreading of sources. Alongside ment was reached, but they commu- and period after it meeting soon between their respective heads renewable energy sources, this last factor will nicated that talks were going well and of government. be ensured by the Nabucco gas pipeline, expressed optimism that talks would On the last day of August the town of Bled Europe and Eurasia. The host, Foreign Minis- for which an agreement was reached in the be concluded by the end of the year. hosted the Bled Strategic Forum, at which ter Samuel Žbogar, expressed great satisfac- middle of July between Romania, Bulgaria, more than 420 Slovenian and foreign politi- tion at the course of the Forum. This year’s Hungary, Austria and Turkey, panellists de- cians, business people and analysts discussed Forum was the fourth of its kind, and within We need termined. the economic crisis and its consequences for the region it is gaining recognition, something a new level There was also an interesting panel on the the economic and geopolitical situation in indicated by the high attendance. economic challenges of the Western Balkans, of awareness at which participants found that if the region The second day of the Bled Forum just over a year ago was in an enviable eco- took place in four panels and one nomic position, following the spread of the round table, at which participants crisis the countries of that region are facing talked about the crisis as a threat to major problems. The IMF has reinforced its security and development, about en- role in the region, while regional countries ergy security and the recession, about are appealing to the EU for help, and greater the issue of values before and after mutual cooperation in the region is needed, the financial crisis and about the eco- participants found. nomic challenges of the Western Bal- kans and regional stability in Eastern Following the presentation of individual Europe and the Caspian region. panels, in response to a question from the Deputy Prime Minister audience whether in this new world into In the first panel it was found that the right which we are headed, there is not a fear that and Minister for Foreign response to the threat to security and devel- universal values might not survive, Žbogar Affairs andI mmigration of opment in the world posed by the crisis, lies said that we need a new level of awareness Luxembourg, Jean Asselborn: in increasing international cooperation in to resolve the current problems. Turkish “Global problems require global responses. seeking joint answers and policies, and in Foreign Minister Ahmet Davutoglu then Today’s priority is to revitalise the multilateral resisting the temptations of protectionism. added that this is a question of continuity system. In the 20th century the world became Economic security is much more important and change, where all the old wisdom will much more open and global, with societies for ordinary people than ‘classical’, military not be forgotten, but will be continued in a also becoming significantly more mutually security. The unemployment caused by the new form, in a new system. interactive.”

  Julija Sardelić, Agata Sardelić, The economy tops Photo: From the photo workshop ‘You See Me, I See You’, Kamenci, June 2009 Slovenia’s foreign “SOROTIJME – JUNCTURE” policy priorities THE ROMA SETTLEMENT OF KAMENCI

Following the conclusion of the Forum, on 1 of the times, especially regarding the current It is characteristic of Prekmurje, September the regular annual consultation of economic situation in the world and in Slo- the northeasternmost part of Slo- the Slovenian diplomatic service took place at venia. In recent months we have indeed bol- venia, that apart from Slovenians Brdo pri Kranju. The consultation addressed stered the economic diplomatic effort. Since other nationalities and ethnic topics related to the Western Balkans, eco- modern diplomacy is to a large extent also communities live there. The Roma nomic diplomacy and new global challenges. economic diplomacy, the Foreign Ministry constitute one such community. For the 15th time now, Slovenian ambassa- is once again becoming the central body and Members of this community also dors from around the world gathered togeth- coordinator of activities in this field. I have live in Kamenci, situated in the er. As Prime Minister Borut Pahor affirmed, already signed an agreement with the Minis- Municipality of Črenšovci, close to Turkish Foreign Minister the government is determined to involve the ter for the Economy, Matej Lahovnik, for the Ahmet Davutoglu: the main road between the towns diplomatic service as much as possible in deal- transfer of the economic diplomatic effort to of Lendava and Murska Sobota. A “We have to change our own thinking in ing with the economic crisis, and is therefore the Foreign Ministry. Working in the field of total of 127 people live in Kamenci, order to change institutional functioning; if strengthening the economic orientation of economic affairs is a primary task of Slove- among them about 50 children, the safety of a child in Somalia is not just as foreign policy. He appealed to the assembled nian ambassadors, while the Foreign Ministry representing approximately 40 important as the safety of our own child, then ambassadors, whom Slovenia has posted in is also planning a structural reorganisation of percent of the inhabitants in this we are not yet thinking sufficiently globally. almost 50 countries, to make every effort to the Ministry and the network of diplomatic settlement. The new silk route in the sense of gas and oil help the Slovenian economy and contribute missions through expansion of the existing pipelines is not a thing for international com- to strengthening economic cooperation. network of economic diplomatic advisers, However, Kamenci is not merely one of petition, but for international cooperation. He also called on them to seek out intensively who will identify specific business opportuni- the Roma settlements. On the contrary, Western civilisations must prepare and also and innovatively new possibilities for strength- ties for Slovenian companies abroad, and by it is known especially for the events, accept multiculturalism.” ening economic cooperation with Slovenia. opening new embassies where the interests of efforts and activities that take place In strengthening the “Slovenia brand”, the the economy are greatest. First on the horizon there, ensuring its unique position in diplomatic service is of great importance. The is the opening of an embassy in Albania. the region as well as in the wider area. state plays a vital role in companies entering That is to say, the Kamenci settlement is and becoming established in new markets Alongside this there will also be the continued a specific “SOROTIJME” (in the Roma – and from this aspect the Arab countries, practice of visits by trade delegations, which language) or “JUNCTURE” – on one for instance, are very interesting – and in accompany the President, Prime Minister hand, a place where the past encounters promoting foreign investment in Slovenian and Foreign Minister. Prime Minister Borut the future, and, on the other, a place manufacturing, while it also provides impor- Pahor is himself heading to Montenegro, where people of different nationalities, tant help in participation at various fairs and Egypt, Libya and the United Arab Emirates, professions and cultures meet. establishing business clubs abroad. while Slovenian President Danilo Türk is go- ing to Azerbaijan and Kazakhstan, and in the In the Kamenci settlement, the coming year to Kuwait, Qatar and Oman. Municipality of Črenšovci and “MISIJA *S” – Association for the Sustainable The Ministry also supports the further devel- Development of Pomurje, in cooperation opment of Slovenian business clubs abroad, with the established Roma Association and is talking about expanding the network “ROMANO PEJTAUŠAGO”, are State Minister for Foreign of honorary consuls with good economic developing and implementing “a backgrounds and strengthening ties with Affairs ofI ndia, Preneet Kaur: model of good practice for ensuring Roma people are not a taking co-responsibility for “The fight against international terrorism Slovenians in neighbouring countries and equal opportunities and for improving problem, but a source of great the successful realisation of nowadays cannot succeed without interna- around the world. In order for Slovenian the socio-economic position of the tional cooperation. The world needs a new companies to secure competitive advantages potential. these projects (therefore, underprivileged Roma community”. global leadership that will be based on mul- in foreign markets, especially in the Western Roma cultures are equal to they must be created in Roma tilateralism. Today the world is too small for Balkans, there is a determination to instru- The basic principles of the Roma other, non-Roma cultures. settlements and not in offices). everyone to go their own way, a new system Foreign Minister mentalise bilateral development assistance, development partnership regarding Projects for Roma people All projects for Roma people of global leadership needs to be implemented Samuel Žbogar: while the Ministry is aware of the great im- development and implementation of the can only be created in must take their specific with full flexibility, since the world is con- At the Ministry we are aware of the need for portance of multilateral economic diplomacy, model of good practice in the Kamenci partnership and with their lifestyle, culture and values stantly developing and in changes requires a an “appropriately planned economic foreign where a significant component of economic settlement are: creative way of thinking.” policy that is adapted to the requirements diplomacy is an appropriate visa policy. active participation, and upon into consideration.

  people, the goal of which is to ensure that the young Roma population has more equal participation in educational, work and “European Route social processes in general. In the Kamenci settlement, there are already traditional Roma summer camps: interdisciplinary creative workshops for the development of Roma Culture of social skills, creativity and the inborn talents of the young Roma population. So, this summer, within the framework of the “DROM – POT” project (co-financed and Heritage” by the Norwegian Financial Mechanism and the EEA Financial Mechanism), the seventh traditional Roma summer The official launch of the Council of Europe and promoting Roma communities and camp Kamenci 2009 took place. At the project “European Route of Roma Culture their creativity. camp, children and young people could and Heritage” will take place in Lendava participate in the creative workshop and in the Roma settlement of Kamenci The project will link places where Roma “ROMA PAINT”, the ecological camp on 7 and 8 October 2009. The event is live and where the founding organisations “ECO ROMA”, the social-motivational being organised by the Government Office are based. Through different tourist workshop “ROMA SOCIO”, the music- for National Minorities of the Republic and educational activities as well as dance workshop “ROMA DANCE” and of Slovenia and the Council of Europe opportunities for direct encounters with the literary creative workshop “ROMA within the framework of the Slovenian Roma communities and artists, the Route LIT”. Chairmanship of the Council. will contribute to better understanding of Roma culture and to breaking down On the first day, the project will be prejudices and stereotypes. presented to the general public for the first time; on the second day the session will take At the moment, this project is one of the place in the Roma settlement of Kamenci, most important initiatives of the Council where the Route will be presented “in the of Europe. Slovenia is already actively making”. Special attention will be paid to involved in the project itself, since two of The development of the model of good globalisation and individualisation of social Healing Grove” arose, as a result of one various Roma cultures and their way of life, the strongest partners in the network – the practice in the Kamenci settlement life, we partnered with the inhabitants of the projects, also presenting a part of there will be presentations of various artists Slovene Ethnographic Museum and the proceeds in two directions: in the of the Kamenci settlement to primarily the Roma cultural heritage – the tradition and partners in the project, and there will Romano Pejtaušago Kamenci Association direction of creating conditions for the found the development of Kamenci of Roma complementary and alternative also be different workshops, etc. – all with (Roma Friendship Association of Kamenci) development of social-entrepreneurial on preserving Roma cultural-historical medicine, since in the past it was mainly the goal of educating, obtaining knowledge – come precisely from our country. activities for the Roma people, and in the potential. We are also dedicated to their Roma women who were known as folk direction of systematic development of the ennobling in the form of an integrated alternative medicine practitioners. In the social skills, creative potentials and inborn and innovative cultural-tourist product grove you can also find sculptures made talents of the young Roma population. incorporating elements of experiences of of scrap metal, designed and constructed diversity and respect for foreign identities by academic sculptors in cooperation Upon studying scientific sources and and pride in our own: “SOROTIJME with Roma children and young people, The Kamenci settlement is thus a socialising with the Roma people from – JUNCTURE” – KAMENCI: ROMA who actively participated in the creative “SOROTIJME – JUNCTION” that Kamenci, we became aware of the wealth CULTURAL-TOURIST VILLAGE (for planning and realisation of these works of lies between the past and the future, and of Roma cultural-ethnological heritage, which there is without doubt substantial art as assistants to the sculptors. also between different nationalities and customs and values, and we understood interest and demand in the cultural- creative potentials of the living culture that this wealth represents obvious but tourism market). Kamenci is not just a “SOROTIJME – artists (writers, sculptors, painters, still unused development potential. It is – JUNCTURE” with the past, but also photographers, filmmakers, etc.). In also threatened in the absence of planned Therefore, the Roma culture in Kamenci with the future. The future of Kamenci Kamenci, people of different nationalities, preservation, since the Roma cultural is being systematically preserved, although is represented by its most important cultures and professions meet at various tradition that has passed from generation it is still marked by a sort of struggle for resource: children and young people. events, such as those like International to generation only as an oral tradition is recognition, namely to be recognised as a The Roma development partnership pays Roma Day, literary evenings, roundtable falling more and more into disuse in the part of European cultural heritage which special attention precisely to the systematic talks, film evenings, musical events and present time. To protect these traditions was more or less overlooked in the past. development and ennoblement of this so on – accompanied by excellent Roma from extinction and therefore from the In Kamenci, there is the first and only potential. We permanently carry out coffee. After all, in Kamenci we are interruption of a rich cultural connection Roma museum in Slovenia, being part educational and creative activities for the building the bridges that connect us, and between the past and the present due to the of the efforts for preserving the Roma systematic development of the indigenous at the same time we are tearing down the pressures of modern de-traditionalisation, historical memory. Next to it, the “Roma potentials of Roma children and young walls of prejudice that separate us.

10 11 INTERVIEW

The Anna Lindh Foundation, based in Alexandria, was established right answer: avoiding the dramatic logic in 2005 and links 43 countries. It took its name from the former of war, looking with hope towards a future Swedish Foreign Minister, Anna Lindh, who was tragically of peace and coexistence, focusing on cultural dialogue, laying the groundwork assassinated in 2003. The main aims of the foundation are to de- with our networks, partnering with those velop dialogue between Mediterranean cultures and civilisations, who share our values and working with and to strengthen the development and establishment of Euro- the civil society to rebuild some of the Mediterranean partnerships. The Slovenian national network, broken bridges. which is an association of non-governmental and non-profit The Foundation also has an organisations, has 34 members. Andreu Claret, Executive Director institutional responsibility in of the Anna Lindh Foundation, emphasises that “the targets and building a social and human factors of cultural dialogue are not abstract ‘cultures’, but men dimension of the Union for the and women who live in the Euromed region, with their social, Mediterranean… political and personal problems, beliefs and dreams.” That is why our programme for the next year will revolve around two main projects: a large forum open to more Mr Claret, how does the Anna Lindh major challenges of our times. How than 400 organisations in our networks, Foundation (ALF) bring people will you achieve this? which will take place in Barcelona under together to work for dialogue Coexistence is a word usually associated the Spanish Presidency of the European between cultures? with processes of peace making. For the Union in March 2010, and the launching It is with people who live in the Euromed ALF, it has a broader scope, related to of the first Anna Lindh Report on region that we need to tackle the historical potential lines of conflict which are not Intercultural Trends, which will become misunderstandings and gaps which exist necessarily geographical borders. We a very important tool for the Foundation, between us and which dramatically think there is now a growing need to face giving a more scientific basis to our work affect our mutual perceptions and our the cultural and social tensions that have and providing the Foundation with a capacity to work for a shared future. emerged among cultural communities, new advocacy role within the institutions That is why most of our activities, in the particularly in some European countries of the Euromed region. Both initiatives fields of culture, education, religion and deeply affected by the economic crisis. are oriented to making the Foundation media, are oriented to getting people to Being aware of that challenge, the ALF a reference in the field of intercultural meet and work together on projects, the will make intercultural coexistence a dialogue in terms of ideas and action. added value of which is prepared and priority in its Annual Work Plan for implemented by organisations in Europe, 2010. In the last decade the the Arab Mediterranean countries, Turkey Mediterranean has been portrayed and Israel. This exercise of gathering What is the essence of the new and perceived mainly as a frontier. people from all over the region is at the programme phase, 2009 to How do you see the two shores of core of our programme of activities – 2011? And what are the planned the Mediterranean? those which are directly organised by the Foundation events? Which are the The perception of the Medierranean Foundation and its networks and those most popular and most supported? as a frontier or as the place where Vesna Žarkovič, photo: personal archive which are financed through the calls for The essence of our programme is activating the “clash of civilizations” takes place proposals we launch every year. civil society in favour of dialogue, corresponds, of course, to the huge gap coexistence and mutual respect. We do in wealth that exists between the two How many projects are there at the organising activities in collaboration shores, to certain political developments moment? with civil society organisations and fund and to the existence of threats which, We now have more than 150 projects projects through the networks. from a European perspective, “come Andreu Claret: running from the 43 countries, which from the South”. But if we go beyond means that we have hundreds of civil Recently we launched an initiative called the stereotype and the simplification, The targets and factors of society organisations on both shores of “Restore the Trust – Rebuild Bridges”, we can see the shores closer than they the Mediterranean working together for which has received significant support are in our minds. Economic relations, cultural dialogue are not intercultural dialogue. from the field. It was our response to human movements, cultural exchanges the war in Gaza, which was a striking and trends of globalisation are creating You emphasise that intercultural challenge for the Foundation. Nine common ground for a common narrative abstract ‘cultures’ coexistence remains one of the months later we can say that we had the and shared future.

12 13 INTERVIEW has been officially announced as of Ambassador Veronika Stabej as Chairperson of the Board of Governors. the winner of the Anna Lindh The Anna Lindh Foundation Another expression of that initiative is the runs the largest Euro-Mediterranean Network, made up of hundreds of Euro-Med Award for the Dialogue presence of Nevenka Koprivsek, Bunker NGOs, universities, associations, public institutions, non-profit foun- between Cultures 2009. Can you Productions, in the Advisory Council of dations, local authorities and private companies, all of them coordinated tell us a bit more about this? the Foundation. by the Head of National Network of each country. The members of the The award to Combatants for Peace, Networks cover most of the fields covered in the first three years: cultural promoted by the networks of the The existence of a vibrant Slovenian and artistic activities, youth and education, democracy and community Foundation, was one of the most network involved in cultural and artistic development, humans rights, migration issues, sustainable development, important achievements of 2009. It activities, with more than 50 NGOs and gender, heritage, media and religion. The National Networks participate underlines the will of the Foundation to other organisations, has contributed very in the setting of our programme and the grants policy, and develop their be active in the promotion of a culture much to that process and to defending own initiatives, launching projects in collaboration with other Networks. of peace, which is essential for cultural the idea in the Slovenian civil society that The Foundation supports the Networks, facilitating collaboration among dialogue in that region. I also want to the country can develop its Mediterra- each other, improving their capacity building, providing them information stress the importance of the second- nean dimension as a vital aspect of its and logistical assistance, training their members, and giving them the place award, which went to History in identity. opportunity of being owners of the Euromed Partnership. Action, an organisation integrated by young historians from Croatia, Bosnia In 2007, five programmes from Slovenia Herzegovina and Serbia whose aim is 2800 civil society organisations. These were supported, specifically four to work for a common narrative of the networks together constitute one of translation projects and one cooperation history of the societies of the Balkans the largest networks in the Euromed project. This is the Hallerstein project, – a purpose which is very much in line region. This is an influential asset for the being conducted by MMC Kibla of with the mission of the Anna Lindh Foundation, which makes it a unique Maribor, as part of which it linked up Foundation. institution, with an intergovernmental with partners in Austria, the Czech dimension and, at the same time, a civil Republic, Portugal and China. society vocation. The ALF networks How is the Foundation funded and how can one apply for funds? had a role from the very beginning Last year, a full 19 applications were in forming the programme of the The Foundation is funded by the European supported in Slovenia, of which 12 Foundation, through a permanent Commission and the Foundation’s 43 were translation projects and six were process of consultation and the Annual member countries, and most of the cooperation projects, and the Slovenian Meetings. Their organisations participate funding is devoted to activities carried out Youth Theatre (Slovensko mladinsko actively in activities organised by the in the field by civil society organisations. gledališče) became an “ambassador” Foundation and they are very active in The calls for proposals are launched with for intercultural dialogue. The call for the presentation of projects for the calls an open public procedure on our website. 2009 comprises two sections: support for proposals we launch every year. Unfortunately, we don’t have enough for projects where the emphasis is on funding to respond positively to all the cooperation projects with third countries Despite all this, the gap in mutual fascinating projects we receive and which and support for the functioning of perceptions between people across are evaluated according to international organisations. the region remains and in some and transparent standards. The Barcelona Process, launched in cases has significantly deteriorated 1995, contributed to giving that reality as a result of conflict and war I want to stress that the Anna Lindh a political perspective. The Union for and economic crisis. How do you Foundation is much more than a fund- the Mediterranean, created to give that explain this? raising organisation. It is an institution process new scope, now has the challenge Because in recent years that gap has been in the service of networking and of making it credible and shared by civil fuelled by the persistence of economic mobilisation, and a platform for those societies on both shores. Mobilising civil and social disparities and some biased who want to participate in building a society, the ALF will contribute to this and unilateral answers to the threat of strong Euro-Mediterranean network for perspective. terrorism and the situation in the Middle intercultural dialogue. East. The hope of many people is that The Foundation set about the new approach of the international In what way is the Foundation Contact Persons in Slovenia for ALF: developing a network of civil community to the problems of the region present in Slovenia? Igor Brlek and Jelka Ciglenečki society organisations in each one of may create a basis for bridging the gap Slovenia has been an active country in the Address: the Euro-Mediterranean countries. which exists in the mutual perceptions. Euro-Mediterranean Partnership from Beethovnova 9 – 1000, Ljubljana - Slovenia What is their main task and what the very beginning of its participation in Telephone: are the results of their work? Combatants for Peace, a civil the Barcelona Process, and particularly +386 12510332 E-mail: The 43 national networks of the movement jointly established by under its EU Presidency in 2008. This [email protected] Foundation now comprise more than Palestinian and Israeli individuals, commitment contributed to the election

14 15 { BU$IN¤SS ...... } Vesna Bertoncelj Popit, DELO, photo: STA Meanwhile the Government is draft- ing a budget for the coming two years and is thereby attempting, despite While the biggest global credit rating house, the difficulty obtaining revenue to fill D & B, has reduced the credit rating for the state treasury, to reverse certain several countries, Slovenia has kept its 2C current trends, where the majority of rating, although given that August showed the budget was used up in advance. a negative trend, it is possible that the Slove- Partly owing to the need to mitigate nian rating might slip, too. social hardship, the Government has Although economic conditions should fi- been negotiating with social partners nally show a slight improvement in the final in the public sector over limiting wage quarter of this year, and owing to the greater growth, something agreed upon with influx of orders some companies are reintro- the previous Government in more ducing the 40-hour working week – which favourable economic times. had previously been cut to 36 or 32 hours – the majority of companies that published data on their half-year operations by the end of August showed both lower earnings and markedly lower profits for the first six months, while for some the net profit of last year’s first half was changed into a loss in the first six months of this year. There is only a Janez Kopač, head of the Energy Directorate at the Ministry of the Economy handful of companies performing better this enced with emission reductions in Austria, For some time now Slovenia has been con- year than in the first half of last year, when Finland, Greece, Italy, Portugal and Spain. sidering a new block at the Krško nuclear there was still no hint of the crisis. On the The Secretary General of the Slovenian Chamber of Commerce, Samo Hribar Milič, states that the At the end of 2008 the net worth of Slo- power plant. However, as explained by Janez majority of Slovenian exports are generated by large companies other hand, now some are saying that they venian mutual funds amounted to EUR Kopač, head of the Energy Directorate at sensed the coming crisis back in 2006, concentrated in the markets of our direct four years ago yielded dividends, 1.505 billion, and at the end of June 2009 the Ministry of the Economy, it will first be something that confirms the explanations vicinity. According to Hribar, some 90 per- with some 23,000 Japanese tourists it stood at EUR 1.65 billion. At the end of necessary to bring the number 2 block into of economic experts that the crisis, which cent of Slovenian exports are generated in visiting Slovenia then, and this year June Slovenia’s mutual funds had 303,718 the national energy programme and to carry has gripped the entire world, could not sud- a circle stretching a thousand kilometres 95,000 are expected. In the future depositors, while at the end of last year there out all the necessary procedures. This means denly strike the Earth overnight. from Ljubljana. The Slovenian Chamber a similar number of tourists should was the higher number of 397,472 deposi- the project should be ripe for a decision after Although companies can simply of Commerce is therefore proposing that visit Slovenia from India and China, tors. Owing to the reduced number of de- 2013 or 2014. Yet since the project will be ascribe their poorer results to the companies direct their efforts more towards so the Slovenian Tourist Board is positors and invested funds, some manage- very expensive and Slovenia will almost cer- economic crisis, it should not be the markets of the former Soviet Union, for- investing in promoting Slovenia in Independent strategic adviser Boštjan Ložar ment companies are in serious difficulties, tainly not be able to finance it alone, it will overlooked that the value added of mer Yugoslavia, the Arab countries and the those two countries. while elsewhere the problems are moderate, need to draw several foreign partners into Slovenia’s economy is too low, with markets of Brazil, India, South Korea and Slovenian health resorts, which are an im- Independent strategic adviser Boštjan Ložar so numerous fund management companies the project. In this context Kopač responded the average per employee last year Turkey, something that in the current crisis portant part of Slovenia’s tourist attractions, has found, however, that in the long term are laying off employees. to certain reports on such plans in Italy. amounting to EUR 35,632, which conditions would have a beneficial effect on were visited in the first seven months of this the only successful social state is one based Slovenian manufacturers are also re- Meanwhile reports have also surfaced that is at the tail-end of the European Slovenian exports, which have fallen con- year by 369,000 guests, which is 2.4 per- on a globally competitive economy, an ef- ducing employee levels, with the total certain details regarding the construction of Union. With such low value added per siderably this year under the impact of the cent more than in the same period last year, ficient public sector and the awareness of number of unemployed coming very gas terminals in the Bay of Trieste have been employee, for the same revenue the crisis, following high growth in past years. while the number of overnights increased elites that the wealth created must be at least close to 90,000 in July, and there are falsified, for which reason the Government Slovenian economy must export more Recently Slovenia was visited by a sizeable by 2.8 percent. In particular there has been evenly distributed. fears that the expectations of a hun- has demanded the correct details and new than economies exporting products economic delegation from China, a country a marked increase in the number of over- While it still appeared in 2007 that Slove- dred thousand registered unemployed talks on the potential harm and threat of the with significantly higher value added. which despite the economic crisis has more nights by guests from Italy, Russia, Serbia nia would be able to maintain the balance by the end of the year might even be terminals for Slovenia and its sea, and if such Here, however, there will be prob- than 7 percent growth, and which, accord- and Montenegro, while the new record- between emissions and its commitments exceeded. For the record, after the col- an agreement is not possible, it has threat- lems making comparisons regarding ing to Samo Hribar Milič of the Chamber, holders are guests from France. under the Kyoto Protocol, owing especially lapse of the former Yugoslavia and the ened action in the European Court. this particular indicator, since the can seriously compete with Slovenia in all There are also 630 Slovenian farmers in- to the increase in transit traffic the obliga- former Yugoslav market, the highest At the site of Ljubljana’s Kolizej building, reduction in the number of employ- products. volved in tourism as a supplementary activ- tions regarding emission reductions will the number of registered unemployed which is a protected monument but is fall- ees in the majority of companies has This year to support additional tour- ity, and of these 250 have guest rooms with not be met. For this reason, in the coming reached was a little over 130,000. This ing into ruin and is not safe for habitation, a increased value added per employee ism promotion the Ministry of the a total of 2,500 beds. Farms can acquire the four years Slovenia will have to pay 80 mil- year, given the circumstances, there new Kolizej building, set to include a hotel on the surface, although no such Economy allocated to 25 Slovenian status of ecological tourist farm, vineyard lion euros in penalties and should suppos- was a big increase in the number of and opera house, should be built by 2015. thing has happened. tourist organisations two million farm and family, cyclist and disabled-friendly edly buy emission coupons for that value. self-employed persons. According to The building, which should preserve part of The Secretary General of the Slovenian euros of funding from the European farm. The highest numbers of visitors come The environmental association Greenslo data from the Slovenian Employment the current structure, will be 75 metres high, Chamber of Commerce, Samo Hribar Regional Development Fund. Accord- from Germany, Austria, Italy and Croatia. proposes, however, that the costs of purchas- Service, in the first half of this year which is as high as Ljubljana’s Nebotičnik Milič, states that the majority of Slovenian ing to Dimitrij Piciga, director of the In August Slovenia experienced defla- ing emission coupons should be covered by there were 2,558 self-employment building, and the cost of the new Kolizej exports are generated by large companies, Slovenian Tourist Board, investments tion, which has become customary for those causing the emissions. Relative to the registrations, and in the first seven should exceed EUR 200 million. and that Slovenian exports are excessively for instance in the Japanese market the summer months in recent years. base year, problems are also being experi- months 3,383.

16 17 Maud de Boer-Buquicchi, Samuel Žbogar, Acting Secretary General, Council of Europe Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Slovenia and Chair of the Committee of Ministers of the Council of Europe

The protection and promotion of children’s rights therefore Slovenia devotes attention to children’s is a universal norm nowadays. This year we cel- rights in particular within the framework of ed- ebrate the 20th anniversary of the adoption of the ucation on human rights and to the creation of Children are not mini-human beings with mini- forms of violence against children. Social and legal UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, the conditions that enable children to become part- human rights. This may be a simple phrase but it acceptance of corporal punishment of children is first international legally binding instrument en- ners when their rights are at stake. To this end, photo: Pawel Flato encapsulates the very essence and importance of an illustration of the different, lower status that our tirely devoted to protecting and promoting chil- the human rights education project “Our Rights”, photo: personal archive the Council of Europe programme, ‘Building a society grants to children. Through its campaign dren’s rights. The legal formulation of children’s which was carried out during Slovenia’s OSCE Europe for and with Children’. Our strategy 2009- “Raise your hand against smacking!”, the Council rights reflects the gradually changing notion of Chairmanship in 2005, was renewed. The project, 2011 focuses on three complementary areas; the of Europe wants to eliminate the most common the child as no longer being “owned by parents”; aimed at 50,000 children – the entire generation promotion of child participation, the eradication form of violence, but also to insist on the fact rather, a child has an individual personality with of children aged from 11 to 12 in Kosovo and of all forms of violence against children and the that children are holders of human rights and are his/her own rights, while society or the state North Ossetia (Russian Federation), and children promotion of child-friendly justice. entitled to more, and not less protection. should ensure the conditions required to exercise from the three main ethnic groups in Bosnia and Through our action, we endeavour to assist children’s rights. Herzegovina – was launched at the beginning of Children’s rights: countries in devising integrated strategies against Strengthening international norms and standards, the 2009/2010 school year. It is intended to raise learning by enjoying violence and to design norms, policies and and raising awareness of children’s rights are of key awareness among the general public of children’s awareness raising tools to address specific forms of importance in preventing the abuse and exploi- rights in certain environments and to contribute tation of children. Within the framework of its to systematic education on children’s rights in a In the Council of Europe we see human rights violence. The new Council of Europe Convention foreign policy, Slovenia is engaged in a number of child-friendly, entertaining and interesting way. education both as a way of securing the future of on the Protection of Children against Sexual Exploitation and Sexual Abuse is a good example of activities, including support for the UN Study on Children’s rights will also be addressed within the democracy and as a way of empowering children in FROM AMBASSADOR LETTER Violence against Children, and efforts to imple- framework of Slovenia’s activities during its Chair- their daily lives as children, so that they can stand this comprehensive approach and alongside our call ment its recommendations, as well as the appoint- manship of the Committee of Ministers of the up for their own rights like any other person. It for state ratification, we shall also launch in 2010 ment of a special representative of the UN Sec- Council of Europe at the International Confer- is also important to remember that education is a Europe-wide campaign against sexual violence. retary-General for such matters. We are pleased ence on Children’s Rights and Protection against not “just for children”; adults too need to learn, Other innovative tools (such as our on-line game that these endeavours have finally yielded results Violence to be held on 6 and 7 October 2009 in in particular those working for and with children. ‘Through the Wild Web Woods’) have been this year and that the UN Secretary-General has the National Assembly of the Republic of Slove- This is the “raison d’être” of our teacher-training designed to address violence in the cyberspace. appointed Marta Santos Pais as Special Represen- nia. The Conference, organised by the Ministry methodologies on children’s rights education and tative on Violence against Children. Within the of Foreign Affairs, the National Assembly and the on violence at school. Child friendly justice frameworks of the European Common Foreign Human Rights Ombudsman of the Republic of The bottom-line, however; is that, when it comes and Security Policy and External Action and as Slovenia and under the auspices of President Dr to children’s rights, the best way for children to If children’s rights are to be realized then we must a member of the UNICEF Executive Board, we Danilo Türk, will include presentations of nu- learn about them is by enjoying them. The main ensure that justice systems (both national and advocate such international action that would merous Slovenian and international projects and aim of our work on child participation seeks to international) are accessible, appropriate, friendly recognise the close interrelation between security, examples of good practice. Its purpose is to raise give children access to all decision- and policy- and meaningful for children themselves. Over the economic and social development, and human awareness of children’s rights among the political, making processes that concern them at local, next year, we shall conclude the drafting of European rights. expert and general publics. national and international levels and ensure that Guidelines on child-friendly justice embracing in Special attention is devoted to empowerment of The UN Convention on the Rights of the Child their involvement in these processes is feasible, particular the principles of the best interest, non- children to exercise their rights. Equally impor- is the most universally ratified convention; never- meaningful and sustainable. discrimination and child participation. tant are education on human rights, children’s theless, twenty years after its adoption, the viola- Through these measures and those taken by participation in issues related to their rights and tion of the rights of children remains widespread. Addressing all forms of violence states such as Slovenia in hosting the Ljubljana the access of children to international mechanisms The October conference in Ljubljana on children’s against children International Conference on Children’s Rights for the protection of their rights. In this regard, rights and protection against violence is an effort and Protection Against Violence, I believe that Slovenia supported the discussion in the UN of a to raise awareness of this issue among the Slove- Violence against children remains widespread and the Council of Europe, together with its various possible complaint mechanism for children. nian public and strengthen the position of the occurs in many forms and settings; from physical partners, is succeeding in its efforts to bring the In 2009, Slovenia is chairing the Committee of Republic of Slovenia in the international arena. I and emotional violence at home and school, to promotion and protection of children’s rights to the Ministers of the Council of Europe, an interna- would like to conclude by saying that we should sexual violence in the media, online and in state top of national and international agendas thereby tional organisation for which the protection of hu- not ignore the fact that children are our future, institutions. Violence occurs in every country in making a real difference for children. And not only man rights is one of the three main objectives. As and that, as adults, we are their role models. This

LETTER FROM AMBASSADOR Europe, irrespective of people’s geographical origin because children are our future, but because they the chairing country, Slovenia’s priorities include is why we should all take care to invest in future or social stratum and what is particularly striking is also are the present and like any human being, children’s rights and education on human rights. generations, ensuring them their rights and build- that society often tolerates and even condones some deserve to enjoy their rights here and now. Each child should be aware of his/her rights, and ing them a better tomorrow.

18 19 VILENICA 2009 BORIS PAHOR Albert Kos, photo: STA

CELEBRATES 96 YEARS In the first few days of September, around represents an affirmation of the Vilenica Albert Kos, photo: STA 40 poets and writers gathered at Vilenica idea. The award was presented to Magris in the Slovenian Karst for the traditional by Slavko Pregl, president of the Society On 26 August the Slovenian writer Boris for the rights of the Slovenian minority in of his time’, and that his messages, both annual international literary meeting, of Slovenian Writers, which provides the Pahor, a native of Trieste, celebrated his 96th Italy, which the new Italian government literary and social, were frequently unheard Vilenica 2009, which is taking place at inspiration and organisation behind the birthday. To mark the occasion, in Ljubljana recognised on paper but in practice and poorly and improperly understood. this location now for the 24th year. The Vilenica meetings, while the award cer- a selection of his works was published in frequently and severely limited. His clearest It is probably no coincidence that he was original idea for such a meeting dates emony was also attended by the President several volumes, while Cankarjev Dom contribution to preserving Slovenian culture ‘discovered’ in the full sense only after the back to the time before the fall of the Ber- of Slovenia, Danilo Türk, who highlighted hosted a celebration on the day itself, in Trieste was the long-time publishing of fall of the Berlin Wall, when the general lin Wall, when Vilenica enabled central to those present Magris’s concise thinking, at which Pahor talked in front of a full the literary magazine Zaliv [Bay], generally social climate in Europe, and with it in Italy European writers in what was then still expressed in his book, which may serve as auditorium with his friend Egon Bavčar and out of his own pocket and only with modest and Slovenia, changed and the amenability the bloc-divided Europe to come face to a starting point for all manner of weighty the editor Zdravko Duša about his life, work support from others. In this magazine to issues raised by Pahor grew. face and exchange opinions on questions political and cultural issues of the modern and his experiences and ideals in life and as he stood up unstintingly for the ethnic In fact in recent years, acclaim has been of society and literature, and these very moment. a writer. The guest of honour was addressed affirmation of the Slovenians, not just those heaped upon him from all quarters: some questions, although in changed socio- This year’s recipient of the Vilenica crys- with congratulations and good wishes by in the minority, but also those in the then of his books, especially Nekropola, have in historical circumstances, became the re- tal for best literary contribution was the the Minister of Culture, Majda Širca, while Yugoslavia, who did enjoy more rights and several countries hit the bestseller and best- current theme in all subsequent Vilenica Albanian poet Luljeta Lleshanaku, who to the hero of the evening was Pahor himself, autonomy, but whose proper fulfilment of read lists, and have caused quite a stir, and meetings, including this year, at which date has published several anthologies of whose words prompted several ovations national identity was sidelined under the two years ago France awarded him its highest the framework topic of the international poetry, and her work has become a part from the audience. then Yugoslav communist authorities. It is state decoration, the Legion d’honneur, while colloquium was ‘Who chooses? – Litera- of major collections of modern Albanian Pahor’s long, rich and fruitful life path was no surprise then, that Pahor, despite being the Italian state broadcasting corporation ture and literary agents’, with participants literature. marked decisively by his childhood and consistently a socialist by persuasion, got RAI invited him last year to talk on one discussing the paths of literary works The programme of this year’s Vilenica also youth, which he spent in his birthplace of into a dispute with the authorities in his of its highest-rating programmes about from author to reader and the factors that spread from its central location to other Trieste. It was here after the First World War country of ethnicity, which cost him a ban the hushed-up chapter of Italian history nowadays influence the choice of reading, areas, with a series of literary readings in that he encountered Fascism, which in the of many years on entering Yugoslavia. during the period of Fascist terror against where a disproportionately significant in- several locations around Slovenia, with years after the war took power in Italy and These circumstances of Pahor’s life, which the Slovenians, and Ljubljana University fluence is being gained by the market, for excursions to the locations in the novels began the systematic policy of stripping gave rise to his worldview and convictions, proposed him for a Nobel Prize. better or worse. The other main emphasis of the now late Trieste writer Fulvio To- away the national identity of the Slovenians, also left a mark on his literary efforts in Indeed there can be no doubt that Pahor is of this year’s Vilenica meeting was on a mizza, the first Vilenica prize recipient, large numbers of whom under the peace the series of novels and tales, and also in a man of this world of grand proportions, a presentation of Flemish literature as one with a visit to Ljubljana and reception treaty remained cut off from their national his essays, which despite getting into print, man for whom any kind of nationalism is of the lesser-known national literatures in with Ljubljana Mayor Zoran Janković homeland in the then Yugoslavia and found for a long time aroused no great attention alien, but who is unwavering in his support Europe. and the Slovenian Minister of Culture, themselves – mostly against their will – in or recognition in Slovenia, and in fact of the rights of small nations and cultures Vilenica, which gave its name to this meet- Majda Širca, and equally importantly, this the Italian state. broke the ice of public recognition more and of coexistence among nations great ing of writers, is a karstic cave with rich year’s Vilenica generated attention across As a Trieste Slovenian, Pahor felt the cruelty successfully abroad, especially in France. This and small, since ultimately this is also one dripstone formations, and the name stems the national border in Trieste, where the of the unbridled settling of scores by the is true particularly of his novel Nekropola of the cornerstones of the emerging Europe, from vila, or fairy, while the cave itself is Revoltella Museum hosted a conversation then Italian Fascist authorities with the [Necropolis], which is a tale of Pahor’s in which each individual, irrespective of his most famous for being open to tourists for between Claudio Magris and his fellow Slovenians, yet as an unyielding person this bitter and painful camp experience and the national or other affiliation, would have the several centuries. The cave chamber deep Trieste native, the distinguished Slovenian reinforced his feeling and consciousness of indelible traces it left on him. It was this possibility of self-fulfilment. underground is the setting for each year’s writer of international standing, Boris national affiliation and the human dignity novel, translated into several languages, that In all this, at his great age Boris Pahor final Vilenica event, the awarding of the Pahor, a conversation conducted by the of his compatriots. After studying in Padua, attracted great attention and considerable remains hale and youthful, with a lively Vilenica prize, which was received this year equally distinguished Slovenian writer during the Second World War he joined the praise from around Europe, and ultimately body and incisive mind, in all respects a by Claudio Magris, a Trieste writer and Drago Jančar . illegal resistance movement in Trieste and also in Italy, although not immediately after man of today and not of yesterday, pulsing essayist, recently known and acclaimed The pulse of this year’s Vilenica thus once was arrested, in this way spending the last its publication in 1967, but only in later with all the events of our times and therefore more widely around the world for his book again fulfilled its mission: reflecting today’s two years of the war in a Nazi concentration years, when this book came to be ranked still a valued and sought-after speaker, who Danube, translated into 24 languages, in- world and its past and future through the camp in Germany. After the war, he spent among the most eagerly sought and read. can clarify our views of the past, perceive the cluding Slovenian. The book evokes the prism of literature, whose awareness of many years as a teacher of the Slovenian For Pahor it would therefore be possible to present with sensitivity and also project his memory of the history and culture of peo- people and the world is usually at least a language in Slovenian schools in Trieste, say that in the existing conditions both in gaze lucidly into the future. ple and landscapes from the source to the step ahead and stretches fathoms deeper while at the same time working tirelessly Italy and the then Yugoslavia he was ‘ahead outflow of the river, and in this way in fact than the awareness possessed by others.

20 21 Discovering the artistic quarter Jože Osterman, photo: Urška Boljkovac

The Mladi levi [Young Lions] festival, which for several years now has been en- hancing the cultural pulse of Ljubljana in August, added to this year’s fascinating projects a new socialisation of Slomškova th Street, hidden away in a rather sleepy part 28 Biennial of Graphic of the city centre, turning it into an artis- tic quarter. This was an attempt (organised arts in Ljubljana by Ljubljana’s Museum of Modern Art, which in this part of town is acquiring Jože Osterman, photo: artist`s archives a new exhibition space), of which there At the beginning of September in front of spread around the spaces of the International the rich collection of other works in this have been plenty in Western Europe, at the building of the International Centre Centre of Graphic Arts and in the galleries field kept since 2001 now comprises 1,200 getting the everyday pulse of the street to of Graphic Arts in Tivoli Park, once again of ŠKUC, Ganes Pratt, Alkatraz, Kapsula books. This year there is a slightly different come alive together with artistic projects a crowd of people gathered to attend the and the Jakopič exhibition space, and exhibition of the prize-winner from the and their creators, something that would opening of probably the best known fine art alongside Biennial director Božidar Zrinski, previous Biennial, since the 2007 winner undoubtedly improve the quality of life in event in Slovenia – the Biennial of Graphic the creators of the installations are also Joen Jonho decided not to have a solo this area. The attempt at least partly suc- Arts in Ljubljana. The event, which on its the curators of these galleries. The entirety exhibition but to also invite seven South ceeded, and the indolent street, which is beginning in 1955 was one of the first to begin that has been thus formulated is therefore Korean artists born in the 1960s to exhibit inhabited mostly by older residents, was successfully breaking down the Iron Curtain a synthesis of views of the best curators their work. The exhibition is entitled After of course awakened and enlivened, but between East and West and in the world regarding the status of graphics today. Go-Go (from the go-go music brought just one day of a new image cannot bring of fine art established the good reputation The winner of this year’s prize is the artistic to Korea by American soldiers) – a new lasting change. of what was called the Ljubljana graphics cooperative Justseeds, a decentralised period of Korean art, and it is on display in The festival did serve up a few other inter- school, has in its last two incarnations revived community of artists who have come the Cankarjev Dom Gallery. The open-air esting projects, for instance the Austrian- the flavour of innovation and breakthrough, together to better promote their work, exhibition Odtisi [Impressions], on large French project by the group Superamas which in the last few years of the 1990s had to mutually exchange artistic views and hoardings along the promenade leading entitled Empire, and 11 other theatrical probably faded a little. for support. The awarding of the prize to through Tivoli Park to the International performances and one concert (performed The main reason for this fading, however, a collective entity has also symbolically Centre of Graphic Arts, was set up by the by the group Kombinat, which cultivates was not organisational or promotional indicated the probable path of graphic art in Pionirski Dom and comprises children’s songs of resistance and revolution), while difficulties in Europe for the well-established the future, since it seems that the importance graphics made in their studios, while in the the subject matter touched on the hard- biennial, but the uncertain fate of graphics of individual artists in this field is being Slovenian Ethnographic Museum there is an ships of individuals who are now strug- in general, since alongside the classical increasingly replaced by a group form of exhibition Pozdravi iz Striponije [Greetings gling increasingly with one of the deepest graphic duplication techniques, in the last creativity. Naturally: with the increasingly from Cartoonia], an international comic- social and economic crises. In this context two decades there have emerged a great common presence of an artistic approach in strip project. Artists from abroad have several artistic and other workshops were many new techniques that have allowed a architecture or in construction itself as well made comic-strip portraits of Slovenia, organised to help visitors gain some new different kind of access to art in general. The as in other media, the issue of the “capacity” while Slovenian artists have done the same knowledge or satisfy some special interests very awareness of this uncertainty and the of artistic production has suddenly become thing for the homelands of their foreign – for instance a DJ workshop, a workshop acceptance of this fact as a challenge have very important. colleagues; the product is a truly fascinating, for printing T-shirts and similar. The festi- become the primary recurrent theme of this The Biennial of Graphic Arts is also made unconventional exhibition. val’s organiser, the Bunker institute, sensi- year’s event, with the main exhibition bearing up of several other exhibitions and projects. The Biennial of Graphic Arts will be open up tively identified the major problems of the the title Matrica [Matrix] – unstable reality. These include the attractive salon of books until 25 October, and has already attracted a current times, and also attempted to offer As it was several years ago, the exhibition is by artists participating in the Biennial, and large number of visitors from abroad. answers to them.

22 23 Cankarjev Dom starts the new season

Polona Prešeren According to Mitja Rotovnik, director of Cankarjev Dom arts and cultural centre, who was speaking at the presentation of the new season, the recession has not touched the institution at all. This is a reflection of good work and the rich and varied pro- gramme of events on offer, and also the result of the various anniversaries being cel- ebrated this year and next. The 50th Lju- bljana Jazz Festival, Europe’s oldest, took place in Cankarjev Dom this year, while November will see the annual LIFFe film A fantastic climax to festival, which this year celebrates its 20th Ljubljana Festival Kino Šiška birthday. With more than 45,000 visitors, it is one of the most keenly awaited cultural 2009 reopens its doors events of the autumn part of the season. Polona Prešeren This will be followed by the 25th Slovenian Andrej Savelli, photo: Barbara Jakše Book Fair, which this year will provide a The organisers saved two wonderful events festive overture to the World Book Capital to mark the final week of the Ljubljana events to take place in Ljubljana in April summer festival. Hearts were first warmed 2010. by the London Symphony Orchestra and The new year will see yet another jubilee, then set aflame by the Bolshoi Theatre’s when Cankarjev Dom celebrates 30 years production of Tchaikovsky’s opera Eugene as Slovenia’s central cultural institution. Onegin. The number of attendances at performanc- The performance by the London Sym- Kino Otok returns es and exhibitions over these 30 years has phony Orchestra was without doubt one of already topped the 10 million mark, which the highlights of this year’s festival. The first to delight Izola part of the concert was devoted to Debussy’s shows how much the public regards it as its Andrej Savelli, photo: STA own. And the rich variety of the cultural series of symphonic sketches and impres- After an absence of eight years, Kino Šiška brovec. The large oval-shaped hall, which programme is more than evident from the sions, La Mer. This was followed later by The Kino Otok international film festi- (Friends), ‘Odprti otok’ (Open Island), (Šiška Cinema) has once again opened its has been dubbed ‘the cathedral’ and which fact that the last three decades have seen Shostakovich’s brooding Symphony No. 8 val returned to the coastal town of Izola ‘Video na plaži’ (Video on the Beach), doors to the public, this time as the ‘Cen- once buzzed to the sound of the film pro- some 30,000 cultural, conference and so- in C Minor (Opus 65). The orchestra was on 10 September. This was the 5th time ‘Otoška Animateka’ (Island Animate- ter Urbane Kulture Kino Šiška’, or Šiška jector, has space for 800 standing or 450 cial events take place at Cankarjev Dom. conducted movingly by Valery Gergiev. the event had been organised, following que) and ‘Silvanova kino šola’ (Silvan Cinema Centre of Urban Culture. It aims seated. The Centre’s manager, Simon Kar- As Rotovnik says, without Cankarjev Dom In the final week of the festival there were a break last year. The main theme of this Cinema School). A number of the best to become the leading centre for contem- dum, is promising three or four events a ‘our capital would, particularly in the per- four sold-out performances by the mighty year’s festival, which took place between films from the festival were shown at the porary and urban creativity in Ljubljana, week, with around 100 events in the small formance arts and the area of conferences, Bolshoi Theatre from Russia. Tchaikovsky’s 10 and 14 September, was Latin Ameri- Kinodvor arts cinema in Ljubljana be- and indeed Slovenia. The new Kino Šiška hall and the same number in the Cathe- and despite the considerable amount of opera Eugene Onegin was presented in a can cinema, with a strong emphasis on tween 12 and 17 September. The Kino will focus on concert, theatre, dance and dral every year. Since the cultural produc- effort invested in the city’s cultural image, new, one could say rather controversial those films that use the latest cinemato- Otok festival is always keen to show the experimental events, and will also be able tions on offer are intended for a specific, be a lonely provincial island in the middle production directed by Dmitri Tchernia- graphic techniques, although around 40 kind of film productions that are oth- to offer production facilities. The pro- primarily younger, audience, the Centre of an increasingly well-developed narrower kov, and one that has caught the imagina- films from all corners of the globe were erwise not available for viewing in Slo- gramme will present and bring together will attempt to make events as price-ac- and wider region.’ tion of a number of internationally known shown in the various festival sections. venian cinemas. The festival also offered multicultural urban life, political freedom cessible as possible. Although the official Cankarjev Dom is known for its superb opera experts. All four performances were Five films applied for the competition numerous chances to chat to festival and technological progress, providing a opening was not until 18 September with cultural events; this season will be no ex- marked by superb soloists and rich scene section, ‘Trgatev’ (Harvest). First prize, guests and filmmakers, an interactive boost to innovation and creativity with an appearance by the groups Laibach and ception. Among the highlights will be an design, each one earning the coveted stand- which ensures that the film is purchased workshop for young filmmakers, and a a marked international dimension. The Juno Reactor, the stage has already been appearance by the Vienna Philharmonic, ing ovation at the end. and distributed in cinemas around Slo- children’s film showing. A film festival Centre is home to a large and small per- christened, with a concert by the legend- conducted by the great Riccardo Muti, an The curtain then came down on the festival venia, went to ‘Prince of Broadway’ by of this international scope, which offers formance hall, an exhibition space and ary punk band, Pankrti, which took place encounter with Armenia as part of a festival until next year. This summer the 13 festival American director Sean Baker. ‘Doku- so much to the town of Izola itself as two cafes. Kino Šiška was designed by on 28 August. celebrating less well-known cultures, and a stages played host to more than 2,500 per- fokus’ (Document-Focus), for docu- well as to the Slovenian cinema-going architect Božidar Gvardijančič and built For more on Kino Šiška and its pro- wide range of conferences attended by sci- formers from 23 countries, with the 73 su- mentary films with socially engaged public, could not have been possible in 1962, with the renovation overseen by gramme, visit the website: entists, professors and other representatives perb events being watched by over 70,000 themes, was a new addition to the fes- without the help of a great many volun- architects Anja Planišček and Nena Ga- www.kinosiska.si of various professions. people. tival; other sections included ‘Prijatelji’ teers and film enthusiasts.

24 25 Our excellence the water from the well was for everyone a professional point of view and adapted For him, the and everything – people, animals and to the climate conditions. Herbs and plants in the garden. aromatic plants can be a useful supplement Karst means So many elements were collected for Pepa’s to other agricultural activities. At very garden that, at the end of July, a lorry left good locations, wheat and buckwheat can unspoilt nature Sežana for London carrying a 46-ton load perhaps be grown. in two large containers. Borut sat next to “Our purpose is to revitalise the common Because he grew up in a village, surrounded the driver and looked after the plants that land of the Karst – to clear overgrown by fields, meadows and common land, were travelling in a cooling chamber. After common land, where overgrowth has Borut knows plants and animals well. For three days’ driving they unloaded at their supplanted the growth of Karst winter him, the Karst means unspoilt nature. destination and began to assemble the savory, which is an important plant for He is convinced that the Karst plateau stone elements and decorate them with the region. Even 20 years ago, all areas of is so valuable that it should be protected the plants. common land in the Karst were mown, officially as a landscape park. Life in the livestock grazed on them and the walls Karst, the capacity to observe as well as the and paths were maintained. When it no opportunity for education enhanced by longer paid to produce meat and milk, the experience, are the foundations on which The Karst as a rearing of cows and sheep was abandoned; he built Pepa’s Karst garden. there is no longer any grazing or any ‘I planned this garden from the starting landscape park mowing. Everything is now overgrown. point of defining every square decimetre Paths are disappearing, but they could of area as a useable outside living ‘The Karst should be protected as a be used for tourism purposes. The Karst environment. Into it I brought distinctive landscape park. Tanja and I have the should find a place to belong.” Karst elements, researched Karst ambition of establishing a trademark He is interested in the marketing of wine architecture to the last detail, and planted which would bring together all those and the protection of certain areas. He those plants that were traditional and wild people striving for the protection and is convinced only indigenous varieties – those that are resistant to the climatic development of the Karst – the kind of Vesna Žarkovič, photo: personal archive should be grown in the Karst – teran and, conditions of the Karst, i.e. to drought. ‘movement’ that is common in places in Many people don’t like these plants, and Western Europe. In the Karst, which is a at most, common grape wine. to many they seem too small, they don’t small and sensitive area of little interest to And why such effort? Neither the blossom enough. I built the various colours commerce or agriculture, containing as it gold medal nor the special award were of these plants into the Karst architecture, does poor soil and little water, only those accompanied by a cash prize. Well, the so that the whole looks beautiful, in things that can really thrive there must be effort was Borut’s honour and fame, but Pepa’s Garden harmony, textured and structurally cultivated: indigenous, traditional varieties more so that the Karst could find a place correct. They say that the key to progress of vine and plant that are justified from where it belonged. preserving the nature and is the ability to take a step back. I took this approach because I know that people are already fed up of concrete, plastic and new materials. This garden is for relaxation, for traditions of the Karst enjoyment among plants that we can use.’ This is how Borut explains the thinking ‘I decided to do the Pepa’s Garden project of the garden, a list of the plants and a Borut graduated in agronomic engineering behind the project. a year ago – specifically, after visiting the planting plan. Last October I sent the and manages a landscape gardening In order to increase the value of the world-famous Chelsea Flower Show in folder to London and applied to take part company, Hortikultura, in Sežana. His garden, he introduced into that natural London. I began planning it in July last in the UK’s longest-running horticultural right hand, Tanja, is manager of the youth asset most prized in the Karst (because year. It took me just over three months event,’ says agronomist Borut Benedejčič. hostel in Pliskovica in the Karst. Borut so scarce): water. He erected a Karst well to plan and to collect all the necessary The result? At the Hampton Court gained his initial experience over the with a visible section above ground called materials. I scoured the whole of the Karst Palace Flower Show, Europe’s largest and border, helping to landscape gardens in a šap. Into the old, plain stone rim was to find and reach agreement on borrowing organised by the Royal Horticultural the Italian Karst. Wishing to learn more, woven the steel chain that was used for the right components, of the proper Society, which was attended by around he and Tanja moved for two months to at least 200 years to draw the bucket up quality and appropriate size. I transferred 170,000 visitors over six days, his garden England – he worked in a nursery while from the depths. Before his departure for the plan for my image of a fenced Karst was awarded a gold medal. Pepa’s Garden she got familiarised herself with youth England, Borut restored it to its original courtyard – a borjač in the local dialect told its own special story – the story of organisations. Borut later joined the splendour. The water flows from the roof, and one I dubbed ‘Pepa’s Karst garden’, the Karst and its people. It so convinced landscape gardening company which he which is covered with special stone plates, representing the ‘front garden’ of a village the judges that they gave it the two highest now manages. Despite the fact that he is or skrli, into a rusty gutter, which leads home – from my head to the computer awards in the ‘small garden’ category – the the manager, he spends most of his time in it underground into the well. Until the and then onto paper. Into the folder, in gold medal and a special award for the his familiar green overalls, up to his neck arrival of a public water supply system in addition to the plan, I placed a description best small garden. in earth or sand, or among the plants. the villages of the Karst a few decades ago,

26 27 Our excellence at the National Museum; in his spare What do you say to that? time, however, he likes to become a master Igor’s love for wood design and the craftsman able to breathe new life into the breathing of practical life into wood Mateja Malnar Štembal, photo: Andrej Mück simplest wooden object, to make it useful products also helped in his construction and give it a simultaneously timeless and of the modular wooden kayak, which he historic feel. made according to his own plans. He first Woodworking has a very long tradition in made a three-metre-modular boat for a Slovenia, which is why it sometimes seems child – specifically, his daughter, Eva – later to us that wood can no longer give us producing a longer, 5.2-metre version that Igor Ravbar anything we haven’t seen before. However, divides in the middle. thanks to Igor and other woodworking As said, he decided to produce his own fans, wood is making a big comeback plans, but took the Greenland kayak as in the world of Slovenian design and his model. He did it the way they did in architecture. the old carpentry schools, first producing and his Igor has been working with wood as a plaster model and then producing the a hobby since 1985, although he does ribs, attaching spruce slats to it. Thus his occasionally come across it in office hours third kayak was born, the longest so far at as well. In 2006, along with colleagues from six metres. masterpieces the National Museum, he decided to make He found that wood was not only beautiful a replica of a drevak, the wooden canoe-like but that no artificial material could begin vessel made from a single tree trunk that to replace it. Because he made it himself, used to sail up and down the Ljubljanica the feeling he got from working the wood in wood river from pre-historic times right up to the stayed on his fingers. It is no wonder that Anyone who knows Ljubljana knows beginning of the 20th century. a number of professionals have said that a that, although it is indeed a capital Igor’s work in wood, which has mostly been wooden kayak or canoe has a soul. city, it’s not so big that gossip doesn’t created in his amateur carpentry workshop, The fruits of his hobby are beginning to fly to all corners with lightning speed. includes three wooden bikes, a canoe, three attract a great response from those that Of course, this is all the better if what kayaks, walking sticks and quite a number work and design wood for a living. At last goes around is the story of a good of useful and usable household items – year’s 21st Biennial of Industrial Design reputation. Slovenians know better chairs, armchairs, tables and the like. (BIO 21), one of the oldest international than most the proverb that says: The wooden bike he made in 2002 goes by design events, his wooden walking sticks ‘Dober glas seže v deveto vas’, or a the very sonorous name of ‘Woo’; the two were awarded a ‘good design’ award. good reputation travels far. that followed could not, of course, have The international jury said that the sticks And so, a few years ago, word went round been named that much differently. So we were a unique product that combined the town that there was a wooden bicycle have ‘Woo 2’, a woman’s city bike for his historical references of the material with tied up outside the National Museum of wife Barbara, with a lovely little basket, an emphasis on the natural beauty of that Slovenia with a strong steel chain. It was, and ‘Woo 3’ (which features a saddle with material in a modern and ergonomic way. to all intents and purposes, a proper bike, a backrest). To receive an award like that from the with two wheels, handlebars, a saddle, For many, a wooden bicycle is today design profession was, of course, a great pedals, lights and a small leather panier something of a curiosity; but it should not honour, and one that Igor Ravbar first – and on the rear mudguard, the modest be forgotten that the very first vehicles to and foremost took as recognition for a job inscription ‘Ravbar’. feature two wheels placed one after the well done. He won’t be running out of On the internet, enthusiasts sighed that the other were made of wood, and even a imaginative ideas and solutions any time bike had such a warm and natural feeling to hundred years ago, bicycle frames were not soon, with new ones taking shape in his it – that it literally radiated all the love, skill made of metal pipes but wooden sticks. head every day. And so we wait, prepared and time that had gone into making it. When Igor was thinking about his new for wonder and surprise. People began to try and guess who was bike seven years ago, he imagined that responsible, why it was there. Perhaps it the frame and perhaps one or two other was a museum exhibit, or maybe it really parts would be made of wood, with only was meant to be ridden like any other bike. a few steel components to strengthen the Soon enough, there were people who let construction. The frame of the bike is it be known that they’d seen the bike in therefore made from laminated slats of motion – with a real cyclist in the saddle spruce in beech plywood, with the fine and all. details being done entirely by hand. There’s He was Igor Ravbar, ‘father’ of the wooden one more interesting feature – the saddle bicycle and a host of other masterpieces in is made of walnut and does not require wood. Igor is employed as a metal restorer upholstering because it is well sprung.

28 29 slovenian delights

Buckwheat and corn porridge (žganci), Ingotu’ cabin on the meadow at Jasenje, in Polona Prešeren, photo: Tomo Jeseničnik A feast in the mountains minced lard (zaseka) with garlic, sausages Alpine dairy pastures are the reason why a the glorious embrace of the Špik mountain and homemade bread, game, dumplings trip to Gorenjska is not complete until you group, they offer proper homemade juices, (štruklji) of various sorts, Bohinj cottage try authentic Alpine soured milk or cheese. herbal teas, and stews prepared in a cauldron cheese (mohant), loška smojka (boiled Gorenjska is the most Alpine region of Slo- over an open fire. They only and always -of and roasted small turnips), special Goren- venia and from very early times, cow’s and fer what can be found in the countryside jska salami (želodec), Bled’s famous cream sheep’s milk, and products made from them, around. cakes … There’s nothing you can’t find in have dominated the cuisine of these parts. Gorenjska’s range of culinary delights. The Real food from the meadows is robust, Specialities of Gorenjska Cuisine of variety of cuisine in Gorenjska reflects the since the shepherds that took the animals to In the Upper Sava Valley, where the last word, variety of the cuisine of the country as a pasture needed strength to last the day. Of at least in winter, goes to skiing and cross- whole. Ethnologist Professor Janez Bogataj course, in addition to dairy products, one country skiing, one can tuck into wonder- believes that Slovenian cuisine is among could find on Gorenjskan menus mutton ful Rateče, Podkoren or kocovi (pear-filled) the richest and most interesting in Europe. and lamb dishes, but much more often in krapi after a hard day on the white slopes And in Gorenjska, it is especially rich and the past than today. – these are ‘pockets’ of pastry with a filling Gorenjska interesting. Here is where the authentic Slo- Cheese is characteristic of the area around of polenta and cottage cheese or dried fruit. venian inn finds its place, its essence, and Bohinj; particularly worthy of mention is the And of course, some buckwheat porridge some of them have been around for a very spicy Bohinj cottage cheese mohant, which meal with porcini or other mushrooms. long time indeed. Let there be no misun- is a protected dish and a proper coachman’s If you visit Bled at any time, you simply must The taste of derstanding here: although we are talking speciality, suitable for accompanying boiled try this town’s main culinary speciality – the about tradition, the dishes on offer in the potatoes, as a spread or a dish on its own. Bled kremšnita or cream slice, which is pre- inns and restaurants have been redesigned The people of Bohinj are masters at mak- pared in this tourist centre using the original into top-quality modern cuisine using the ing other mature cheeses. Their smoked recipe from the years after the Second World very best ingredients. minced lard is also exceptional, suitable as War. This simple dessert, made from vanilla the Alpine It was in one of these authentic Slovenian a spread on bread or an accompaniment to cream and whipped cream between two thin inns, which served coachmen travelling Bohinj porridge made from reddish-brown layers of puff pastry, is a speciality of the gas- between Vienna and Trieste, that a very corn. Žganci, or porridge, made from corn tronomy and tourism of Bled. In the Park special story began to be written: the story or buckwheat, sometimes with the addition Hotel in Bled, they still make it according dairy of the Carniolan sausage. A great deal has of potatoes and wheat, is probably the most to the original recipe from the beginning of already been written about this sausage, but widespread dish in Slovenia. It is garnished the 20th century. They use original natural nevertheless there is one story we should with minced lard, crackling, grapeskins or ingredients that contain no additives or sub- mention that explains why this sausage is eggs (to make jurjeva kapa, or ‘George’s Hat’ stitutes. so special. As the anecdote tells us, Em- – a kind of omelette). Among the other specialities of Gorenjska peror Franz Joseph adored this sausage. He Many Slovenian mountain or dairy huts are are govnač, or boiled and garnished sweet stopped at the Marinšek coaching inn in a pleasant meeting-point for lovers of na- cabbage with potatoes, which makes an Naklo on the way from Vienna to Trieste. ture and of simple but extremely tasty food. excellent dish on its own or as a side dish All the innkeeper had in stock was the nor- Certainly, curdled milk with a bowl of buck- for meat. On Velika Planina above Kamnik, mal ‘house sausage’. The Emperor loved it wheat porridge tastes a lot better high above they prepare small round or pear-shaped so much that he exclaimed: ‘This is no nor- sea level, when you’re pleasantly tired after a and decorated cheeses. Mavžlji or maželjni mal sausage, this is a Carniolan sausage!’ hard day’s hiking, than down in the valley. are meatballs wrapped in a netting made The Carniolan sausage is a protected food And you’ll always find an interesting stew on of pork and roasted in the oven and served today, and the owners of Gorenjska inns the menu, anything from jota to ričet (the with pickled turnip or cabbage. During the and restaurants are working tirelessly for the former made with cabbage or turnip, the winter months, they offer meat and liver protection of other well-known and typical latter with barley), or else a proper Alpine sausages (fried sausages and black pudding), dishes from the region, including Goren- masovnik. Being city girls, the masovnik godla (a black pudding soup), loaves filled jska smoked lard and Gorenjska želodec opened up whole new horizons for us. This with smoked meat, and bread called Goren- salami with porridge. In the proper inns was at one time food for real Alpine dairy- jska prata or budl. of Gorenjska, they always try to include men; today it is only for the hardest and Gorenjska is also the cradle of Slovenian in their menus dishes made from authen- most committed mountaineers. This is ro- and European beekeeping. Of the desserts, tic high-quality ingredients from the local bust floury food where it’s best if you don’t we cannot overlook the rolled cakes and area. One of the most important features of count the calories. Masovnik is made from dumplings, potice and štruklji, for which Since the Alpine dairy season is coming to an from the capital of Ljubljana, is primarily Al- high-quality dishes is the traceability of the buckwheat or corn flour boiled down in hot Gorenjska’s housewives and restaurants are end, we have decided to go to Gorenjska this pine in character. In the past, its natural fea- ingredients used. In Gorenjska the range cream. In some places eggs are added. With- famed. On top of everything, we should add of cuisine on offer sits alongside the tour- out question, this is real food for strength. the various types of fruit schnapps, some month for a spot of culinary pampering. This tures did indeed have a significant impact on its ist menus characteristic of Gorenjska as an One can still find enthusiasts that prepare with added health-giving herbs which grow part of Slovenia, which stretches northwest way of life, and therefore on its cuisine. Alpine destination. the food in the traditional way. At the ‘Pri on the hills and mountains.

30 31 slovenian delights

Ajdova kaša z gobami (buckwheat porridge with mushrooms) 1 kg of buckwheat porridge Ajdovi žganci (buckwheat 500 g of fresh mushrooms 80 g of fat porridge) 1 chopped onion Ingredients: salt 0.5 l (17 fl oz) buckwheat flour parsley 3 tbs coarse wheat flour pepper 1.5 l (50 2/3 fl oz) salted boiling water sour cream crackling to garnish Cook and season the buckwheat Mix both flours and pour the mixture porridge. into salted boiling water. Boil for a few Fry the onion and the finely sliced minutes until the flour is submerged mushrooms in the fat. in water. Then, using the handle of At the end of the frying, add chopped a wooden spoon, make a hole in the parsley and the cooked and drained middle and boil on a low heat for another porridge. Season with pepper and garnish 20 minutes. When cooked, pour away with sour cream. some of the water and stir well. Add the crackling, cover the pot and let it rest for 15 minutes. Using two forks, crumble the žganci into a bowl and garnish with crackling. Žganci are best served with sauerkraut, pickled turnips, milk or curdled milk. Rateški krapi (Rateče pastries) For the pastry: 6 boiled potatoes 2 eggs 500g of wheat flour Govnač salt 1 kg of fresh cabbage For the filling: 500 g–1 kg of potatoes 300 g of cooked and ground dried pears minced lard or crackling 1–2 spoonfuls of corn meal or white 1 onion cut into quarters breadcrumbs a few cloves of garlic honey to taste salt cinnamon pepper caraway seeds For the garnish: bay leaves 2–3 spoonfuls of fat breadcrumbs Cut the fresh cabbage leaves into strips, Make the pastry, roll it out and, using a cover with a little water and boil. mould, cut rounds of 8–10 cm in diameter. Drain the cabbage, add a little fresh water Place the filling in the centre of each round and cook slowly. using a teaspoon. In the meantime, peel the potatoes, dice Fold the pastry rounds over into semicircles, them and add them to the cabbage. Use using your fingers to seal the edges. more potatoes if you want a thicker dish. Cook the fritters in salted boiling water Add onion and a few cloves of garlic. Add until they rise to the surface. salt, flavour with caraway, add a bay leaf Use tongs to remove them from the water, and cook for one hour. place them in a dish and garnish with Mash and, if necessary, thicken with flour breadcrumbs fried in butter. and water. Garnish with crackling.

32 33 Ana Mrzlikar, photo: STA Kozmus knows from first hand that the enthusiasm and talent shown by young athletes are often not enough on their own and that companies are not invest- ing enough in sport. He is therefore de- termined to do as much as possible him- Primož Kozmus self to rectify this and give his support to future top sportsmen and women. This year, at the World Championships in Ber- king of the hammer lin, they printed T-shirts with the words ‘Primož Kozmus, Berlin’, with proceeds going to support young talented sports- men and women. By doing so, Primož showed his unique form of support for the top sportsmen and women who will, in the future, reach the summit of sport- ing achievement nationally and interna- tionally. Primož is a sportsman whose fame has not gone to his head. He loves giving autographs and exchanging a few words with his admirers. He is also one of the rare sportsmen (perhaps even the only one) who dares to predict victory, which he did before the World Championships in Berlin. From when he was a little kilometres. The hammer itself weighs 7.26 Ever onwards, ever upwards … Championships in Berlin, Primož Koz- was at this competition, on 2 September, mus confirmed that he is the best ham- that Primož set a new national record. His kg. And given that Primož lifts an average The greatest achievement of his career Next goal: a world record? boy, he wanted to become a mer-thrower in the world. He was the throw, which was the longest in the world of between five and 11 tons of weight per so far came in 2008. He strung together Has the time finally come for the world top sportsman. Before he’d only competitor to throw the hammer this season, was measured at 82.58 metres daily training session, this means that he a long series of victories at competitions record, which has stood for more than reached the age of 30, he had over the 80-metre line – and he did it and was watched by a packed house at the has lifted way in excess of 100,000 tons in at home and abroad. Competitively, the two decades, to be broken? This is, of three times. Celje stadium. his wish. After he won Olym- the course of his career. season began extremely well; fitness-wise, course, the mark set by the Russian Jurij His throw of 80.84 metres took him pic gold at the Beijing Games things were not as they should have been. Sedik way back in 1986, when he threw above the Pole, Szymon Ziolkowski, last year, the highest achieve- 2007 – the breakthrough year He was plagued by injury, which meant No nonsense 86.74 metres. Primož’s trainer Kevot is Olympic champion at the 2000 Games In 2003 Primož Kozmus was named sec- that he was forced to change his planned Primož Kozmus is known as an athlete convinced he is capable of throwing the ment for any athlete, he in Sydney and 2001 world champion ond best sportsman in Slovenia; that same winter and summer programme of prepa- who speaks his mind. His belief that be- hammer further than any man in history. proved that he was still king in Edmonton, who threw 79.30 metres. year, and the year after, he was named the rations. His appearance at the upcoming ing a ‘top sportsman’ is a profession rather And Primož’s publicly stated wish is to do of the hammer by taking gold Kozmus’s gold medal was Slovenia’s first country’s best athlete. He won these titles Beijing Olympic Games was hanging in than an amateur hobby has marked him this by the end of the Olympic Games in at a World Athletics Championships. He at this year’s World Athletics on the basis of two outstanding results: in the balance. However, on 14 July, after out as one of the few top competitors London in 2012. His preparations are al- joined Slovenia’s other World Champi- Championships in Berlin. 2003 he became the new national record- test training at his local Brežice stadium, in Slovenia prepared to fight to improve ready underway, but he is convinced he onship medal winner, Gregor Cankar, Kozmus says that his friends would de- holder with a throw of 81.21 metres, and he confirmed that he would be appearing conditions in Slovenian sport and to can improve them still further. He says he who won a bronze in the long jump in scribe him as phlegmatic. His life’s motto came fifth in the World Championships in Beijing. At that time he was probably stand up openly in favour of proper regu- still has quite a bit left in the tank. Fingers Seville in 1999. As mentioned earlier, of is ‘to the end and beyond’. Is it this combi- in Paris. At the 2004 Olympic Games in unaware that his career would become lation of their status. He believes it unac- crossed! course, Primož himself won a silver in the nation that is, perhaps, the key to his suc- Athens, his sixth place made him the most a golden one barely a month later when, ceptable that top sportsmen and women Go, Primož, go! World Championships in Osaka in 2007. cess? That enables him to enter the circle in successful Slovenian hammer-thrower in on 17 August, he became the Olympic that have achieved outstanding success at Or: Throw, Primož, throw! On that occasion, he missed the gold by a relaxed frame of mind, concentrate that history. But although this was indeed the hammer champion. Around 300 people, major championships, thus presenting a fraction, being beaten in the last throw mind and throw the hammer as far as it can best achievement by a Slovenian hammer- including three coachloads of fans, turned Slovenia to the rest of the world in the by the Belarusian Ivan Tihon, who was 17 August – a special date in go? Maybe. But his success is the fruit of thrower at the Olympic Games up to that out at Brnik airport to greet him upon his best possible way, should have to struggle found to have used banned substances a many years of training. Starting at the age point, Primož was still not satisfied. He return from Beijing. when their career comes to an end. He the calendar of 15, his training sessions must now num- knew he had it in him to go further … year later at the Beijing Games. therefore proposed a system of pensions One could say that 17 August is rather special New national record and the longest for top athletes that win medals at the for Primož Kozmus, being the date on which he ber in the thousands. He spends a great deal When he raised the national record in ‘He came, he threw, he achieved his two greatest triumphs. On 17 Au- throw in the world this season: 82.58 m Olympic Games. Primož is as sure about of his time when training at the Croatian 2007 to 82.30 metres and won his first conquered’ gust last year he mounted the podium to receive Olympic centre in Bjelolasica. He has 11 major championship medal, a silver, at the After becoming world champion, Primož’s this as he is sure of himself when he en- his gold medal at the Beijing Olympics. Exactly His fans gave this slogan to Primož, who training sessions a week and around 300 a World Championships in Osaka, he had first domestic appearance was at a compe- ters the circle, saying that he will not stop one year later, at 8.49 pm to be precise, the Slo- had returned as world champion from year – which means he throws the hammer achieved the breakthrough he needed. It tition in Celje. The meet, which was part until things have changed for the better. venian national anthem once again rang out, Berlin, at a reception in Brežice, and it has this time at the Olympic Stadium in Berlin. This around 10,000 times a year. If one were to was this medal that brought him the pres- of the Athletics Grand Prix series, featured He will continue to draw attention to the now become his trademark. time Primož added the title of world champion count the total distance his hammer trav- tigious title of Slovenian sportsman of the quite a few big names in world athletics, problems and propose solutions within On 17 August, at the World Athletics to that of Olympic champion, confirming that he els each year, it would measure over 600 year. in addition to Primož of course. And it sport, politics and the business world. is, indeed, king of the hammer.

34 35 Jana Bogataj, photo: Simon Pukl

Take one whitewater slalom familiar with. The stretch of the Sava River the greatest they had experienced in their course, a winch and thirteen around Tacen has a multitude of rapids and lives. But, in the end, ambition won out eddies whose power canoeists have had to over fear: not even the most painful tum- New sport daring extreme athletes rush- pit their strengths against since 1939 in bles in the ice-cold water, which made the ing upstream on a wakeboard national as well as international competi- 1,500 spectators gasp, could dampen the through the rapids and you get tions. So why not also make use of this wa- competitive spirit and readiness to take the what is currently one of the ter power for wakeboarding? risks attempted by the starters. After two invented most spectacular sports events In September 2008, Tacen gained a new qualifying rounds, the best seven were al- in the world – the Red Bull watersports attraction, as thanks to the lowed to test their limits still further and main sponsor Red Bull a hitherto unique prove their ability in three final runs. There Upstream. After last year’s wakeboard contest was held. In the Red was more than enough entertainment for successful premiere, around Bull Upstream, board-riders were for the the mainly young spectators who turned in Slovenia 1,500 spectators gathered on first time ever not pulled through still wa- out by the Sava on this sunny autumn af- 12 September 2009 in a small ter but against the strong current of white ternoon. place called Tacen to look on water. Rapids and eddies became natural It was no easy task for the three judges from with interest and excitement obstacles and rocks became natural slides. Slovenia, Germany and Austria to pick those In order to make this extreme sport even finalists who had combined their creativity at this new sports craze from more fascinating, three artificial elements in overcoming the obstacles with bravery Slovenia: whitewater wake- were installed as jumping aids. At a speed in style, tricks and line taken in the water. boarding. of 30 km/h the participants had to incor- The best and technically most demanding It was boredom which made surfers come porate as many tricks and technical dif- performance was put on by the American up with the idea of being pulled through ficulties into their run as they could. The Adam Errington, followed by Balázs Bakro the water by a motorboat while they were jury chose the winner based on criteria of from Hungary and J. D. Webb, also from waiting for the perfect wave. In the early style, creativity, a high level of difficulty in the US. The crowd’s favourite and local 1990s, this way of passing time became a the tricks performed, entertainment value matador, Robert Pokovec, came in fourth, sport in its own right called “wakeboard- and as daring a ride as possible. It is clear as he did the year before. However, the ing”. This involves athletes being pulled by from the start list, made up exclusively of homeland of whitewater wakeboarding a motorboat or a cable on a snowboard-like world, European and national champions, nevertheless racked up its first trophy this board on calm coastal waters or lakes while that not just any wakeboarder, no matter year: for her incredible courage for being they tackle various obstacles or make spec- how fearless they may be, is up to the high the first woman to tackle the canoe run on tacular jumps. Around twenty years later standards demanded by whitewater condi- a wakeboard, Naja Puhar from Slovenia it was tedium which led a small group of tions. won a special prize. In his victory speech, Slovenian and Croatian wakeboarders to This year, 13 participants from Slovenia, Errington praised the crazy idea and good look for new challenges. They struck gold Germany, Hungary, Austria and the US organisation of the event. Like everyone in Tacen, a small place on the outskirts of tackled the challenge of Tacen, which even present, he too hopes that next year he will Ljubljana which fans of canoeing will be the most experienced boarders described as have a chance to defend his title.

36 37 people For the fifth year running peared as a soloist, chamber and orchestra of the word. Its special quality lies in the fact now, the second half of the musician in Europe, Asia and America, and that it is a mass event, international and ac- she was a founding member of the wind cessible to all without pre-selection. Its aim is month of August in Izola, a quintet Ariart, which she recently left. All for young people to exploit all the opportu- town by the sea in Slovenian this says a lot about Maja. The experience, nities offered by OFF, while at the same time Istria, has been the time when knowledge and character she has acquired OFF accepts their desires and initiatives. In at every step you encounter have over the years led her to a story that is this way the knowledge and experience of young musicians with instru- one of the most important in her life. This is the assistants is enriched with the youthful ments in their hands, all OFF, the festival of oboe and bassoon. freshness and desires of the participants.” She encountered it in Austria, where it was The assistants, teachers of oboe and bas- dressed in the same recognisa- born and where, in a very different form to soon, accompanist and conductor – there ble T shirt, arriving here from the one in Slovenia, it is still going. But Maja were 10 such staff this year – come from all over Europe for the inter- moved it to Slovenia, choosing the sea and Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Croatia, Italy, national oboe and bassoon Izola, although the OFF festival, which is Hungary and Israel. They differ from each festival, the short OFF festival. a successful and also protected trademark, other greatly, which is of course a factor of Each year more than 40 young now also draws large numbers elsewhere. the way they work, play and teach, and this Why did Maja even get involved with OFF, is tied to a particular environment. “This is musicians – and in five years which in five years has done a great deal for precisely the aim of OFF,” says Maja Kojc, around 150 – gather together the recognition of the oboe and bassoon? “so that various different approaches come at this biggest event for oboe “It was of course a desire to offer young together in one place, which is not possible and bassoon, truly the only oboists and bassoonists playing these lesser in a regular music school. And especially not event of its kind in Europe. known and also expensive instruments an with instruments that do not have such mass They play several concerts for opportunity, which they would otherwise appeal, and oboe and bassoon departments not always get, or which they could not af- are small at music schools.” Izola, which is a treat both ford. Once a year, during the holidays, they Every year the OFF participants give several for the local people and tour- gather in one place – young people from concerts in Izola, and they have also made Nataša Benčič /Radio Koper/, photo: Mateja J Potočnik ists. They bring to the town a different European countries, with differ- guest appearances in Ljubljana, Celje and positive energy and a special ent ages and levels of previous knowledge. Postojna. Performing is of course a central kind of “OFF spirit”, which is At Izola they get everything: under various part of them coming together. Their work infectious and also now indis- assistants they gain skills, give concerts and – and they are together for 10 days – would they learn to make the mouthpieces for be in vain if they could not present it to the pensable. The story of OFF is these instruments. We also arrange an exhi- public. After all, music comes alive when inseparably tied to Maja Kojc. bition of sheet music, accessories and instru- it has an audience. Through performances OFF PLAY ON! Maja is a musician. An oboist. ments. OFF is a story without boundaries in they get over stage fright. When you hear Her love of the oboe and of the geographical, musical and human senses them and see them, it is hard to believe that MAJA KOJC, oboe soloist, teacher, soul music, in that specific order, has opened up numerous new of the international oboe and bassoon chapters in her musical career. Maja Kojc, born in 1968, studied piano and festival - OFF IZOLA oboe at lower and secondary music schools in Ljubljana, then she continued her edu- cation at the Ljubljana Academy of Music and decided to study at the “Mozarteum” University in Salzburg. Here she graduated and obtained her master’s degree under Pro- fessors Arthur Jensen and Lothar Koch. As a student she won several prizes at various competitions. In Salzburg she was also a regular member and soloist in the chamber orchestra Pro Musica, and she participated in various chamber groups and modern mu- sic ensembles. She has been an oboe soloist for the RTV Slovenija Symphony Orchestra since 1993, and since 1996 she has taught oboe and bassoon at the Secondary Music and Ballet School in Ljubljana. She has ap-

38 39 NATURAL people TRAILS they are nervous before performing. A single education, Maja recalls. And she adds: “Our Firšt, who has now been the OFF Band con- glance at them, when they are together in instruments are expensive, and not every ductor for two years, dedicated his composi- Jože Prešeren, photo: Darinka Mladenovič the OFF Band, which combines teachers music school can offer them to students. tion Play Off to the festival, and this year for and students and every year literally fills the Many people cannot afford an instrument, the first time Maja Kojc premiered in Slove- magical Manzioli Square in Izola, offers a vi- and they play on old, poorly maintained nia a composition by the Serbian composer sion of optimism. It seems as though over instruments, without even any money for a Ivan Jevtić, who also attended the festival. the years a kind of special “OFF people” mouthpiece. At OFF, the teachers can offer Last year OFF participants devoted a part of profile has been formed, and Maja Kojc de- them some minimal, of course merely hu- their concert to arrangements of the com- scribes it thus: “Of course these are excep- man, and non-organised assistance for re- positions of Mojmir Sepe, who was thrilled tionally motivated young people. This is not pairing instruments or for buying the basic to hear them performed for the first time in Beekeeping necessarily tied to talent or their success rate, essentials. This happens automatically, this such a way. but to their interest. Among them there are is the spirit of OFF, which affirms that the In five years, like a young tree, OFF has also plenty who are deciding what they are right people are involved in it. It would of grown new branches – in Krško Maja Kojc going to devote themselves to professionally course be nice if we could help them in an has established the biennial competition in life. And those who in fact with the help organised way, with instrument purchasing, “OFF BEAT” for oboe, bassoon and cham- of OFF are preparing for important musical grants … I hope that this too will be possible ber groups. Meanwhile OFF and Friends is in Slovenia SLOVENIAN HONEY – A NEW EUROPEAN TRADEMARK tests such as competitions, entrance exams some time in the future.” an emerging story of the coming together and orchestra auditions. So they are inter- The future of OFF. A chapter of its own. and concert-playing of the assistants who ested in the different views of very different This year’s fifth OFF was undoubtedly a teach at OFF and want to perform together teachers. So in the most practical way, in one milestone. It has brought the need for clear in various groups. And together with Maja place they gain an insight into what is hap- vision, since over the years it has become Kojc and the other OFF people they want to pening around the world. Very rarely could much more than a project. It has become continue writing the OFF story in Slovenia. they afford to travel around getting to know a mission. And Maja’s personal mission. Far-reaching and recognisable, as it has been, foreign academies or afford private lessons This says a lot about her as a person. OFF and also in other countries of Europe and with professors.” generates energy in every pore, and this does the world. The music can of course easily do It is no surprise that OFF is linked to nu- not die when the festival is over. OFF is an this, while the OFF FESTIVAL also offers a merous human stories. Every year they also event and a musical gathering, for which heart-warming quality, which is also in the include some quite touching ones. A young composers write and arrange compositions. music, a rare, wonderful and not entirely au- person who is talented, but owing to social Especially for it. The first to write for OFF tomatic phenomenon. OFF play on! pressure is perhaps playing on a poor instru- was Bojan Glavina, Dušan Bavdek arranged ment and cannot really afford any additional his composition Hoquetus for OFF, Nenad www.off-play-on.si

Slovenia is the only European Union Member State to have one of the rare internationally recognised and protected protected its native bee, the Carniolan bee (Apis mellifera features of our country. This breed of bee has become carnica), which in other words means that in Slovenia established in the majority of the countries of former only this breed of bee can be raised. The Carniolan bee is Yugoslavia and Central Europe, and it is regarded as the famed for its docility, hard work, humility and excellent second most widespread bee breed in the world. For this sense of orientation; owing to the tiny grey hairs on its reason special attention is devoted to preserving and abdominal hoops, Slovenian beekeepers fondly call it the cultivating the pure Carniolan bee, which is also regarded kranjska sivka, or Carniolan grey. So it is this bee that is as part of the natural and cultural heritage of Slovenia.

40 41 series of famous men who established the range of characteristic products – apart Slovenia. After this congress, a number professional foundations of beekeeping. from honey, the bees were also raised of publications around the world carried In the 18th century, when Austrian for beeswax, pollen, royal jelly, propolis a mass of articles about Slovenian Empress Maria Theresa founded a and for their venom, which was used beekeepers and about our country, so beekeeping school in Vienna, the first medicinally. Beekeeping is also important now each year numerous groups of teacher of beekeeping at this school was for the pollination of plants. We should beekeepers are still visiting Slovenia, the Slovenian Anton Janša (1734-1773), also mention that Slovenian beekeepers especially from Western Europe, and a native of the village of Zabreznica near publish their own professional magazine, seeing for themselves Slovenia’s natural Bled. Even before this appointment Slovenski čebelar [Slovenian Beekeeper], features and of course the larger he was famed as a great theorist and which boasts a tradition going back more apicultural holdings. practitioner in beekeeping. He wrote two than 130 years! So which locations do Slovenian books in German on beekeeping, and for beekeepers recommend most strongly those times they were a real discovery for that foreign guests visit? First and everyone involved in it who could not Slovenian foremost they like to take guests to the fathom certain laws governing the lives Beekeeping Centre at Brdo pri Lukovici of bees. honey – a (accessible from the Ljubljana-Celje Exceptional credit for developing motorway), which is the headquarters Slovenian beekeeping also goes to the protected of the Apicultural Federation of Slovenia priest and teacher Peter Pavel Glavar and numerous other professional Another special feature of Slovenian for transporting on wagons. In the last (1721-1784), who in his time made trademark services, and also provides areas for beekeeping that has gained international hundred years, the majority of these bee great efforts for the spiritual and material From the middle of September 2009 it tasting, a shop selling bee products and recognition is in the area of folk art houses have been replaced by a house advancement of the Slovenian people. will be possible in Slovenia and certain equipment and a restaurant. Many local – this being the art of painting beehive invented by one of the most famous He translated Janša’s book on bees from other EU countries to buy Slovenian people and foreign guests also like to see panels, something not known anywhere Slovenian beekeepers, Anton Žnidaršič. German into Slovenian, and added to it honey as a product of protected the Beekeeping Museum in Radovljica, else in the world. The beginnings of this Nowadays it is used throughout his own experiences. He also founded geographical indication, ensuring the which is unique in the world, while in the immune system is pollen, a natural folk art can be traced back to the middle Slovenia as well as in some neighbouring his own beekeeping school and even a highest quality of our honey. At the same nearby Breznica stands Janša’s bee house, stimulator. Obtaining royal jelly is a very of the 18th century, when the painting countries; this, too, is popular because beekeeping cooperative; he was regarded time, Slovenian beekeepers have decided which is supposedly just like the one challenging process, but it is used in of farm furniture was very popular, and of its easy handling and suitability for as the best educated beekeeper in the to use a protected Slovenian honey jar that was there more than 200 years ago. medicine to reduce blood pressure and painting on glass was also known in this transporting. This bee house is simply then Slovenian lands. Many of his tips in its original form and volume of 720 There are also numerous beekeeping for numerous other problems. Another period. The smooth wooden panels on called the AŽ-house. are still heeded by beekeepers today. ml, while in shops it will be possible to attractions in all of Slovenia’s other essential product is propolis, which helps the front of bee houses posed a challenge One of the most famous Slovenian find smaller replicas of this jar in 370 regions, which Slovenian beekeepers are treat diseases of the respiratory organs, for numerous folk artists, and this gave beekeepers was the previously mentioned ml and 212 ml sizes. Many people will especially fond of visiting while on their various skin diseases and more. Beeswax rise to fascinating images that turned Anton Žnideršič (1874-1947). All of therefore ask: why Slovenian honey? group excursions and professional trips. Slovenia – is used to treat inflammation of the oral simple bee houses into veritable open-air them, as well as other distinguished And our beekeepers will reply: because Here it should be noted that in many cavity or throat, while bee venom is art galleries. The pictures on individual Slovenian beekeepers, contributed to it is high-quality, because it comes from locations, beekeepers have pooled their homeland used in various preparations for treating bee houses of course also helped the beekeeping becoming a noteworthy the environment in which we live and resources to establish proper apiary arthritis and so forth. Apitherapy, which bees in their orientation, and made it sector of the economy with a whole because our beekeepers ensure that centres with beautifully designed bee of famous in many respects complements classical easier for the beekeeper to remember the honey has truly come from this houses. The bee houses are in fact a medicine, is the main discipline that individual houses. Of course there are no location. special original feature of Slovenia; they beekeepers deals with treatments using honey and longer any bee houses from those times, Slovenian beekeepers often claim Slovenian beekeepers can also boast are constructed of various materials, most other bee products. This branch of but Slovenia’s museums have preserved that there is no nation in the world a relatively rich selection of different commonly of wood. The beekeepers like knowledge was founded by the physician a good number of original paintings so emotionally tied to bees as the honeys, depending on the plants from to serve up to visitors local specialities, Dr. Filip Terč (1844-1917), who worked from which countless replicas have Slovenians. Slovenians use numerous which the bees have collected the sweet including some products not previously for most of his life in Maribor, from been made – new beehive panels done folk sayings and expressions regarding juices. And since Slovenia’s flora is mentioned – such as honey wine, honey where he supplied articles for numerous in the antique style are among the more this relationship, and perhaps the most relatively diverse, so is the selection. Best brandy, various tinctures and similar. professional publications around the original Slovenian tourist souvenirs. It common is this: marljiv kot čebela [busy known perhaps is the flower honey, which Recently a sparkling honey drink has world. should also be noted, of course, that as a bee]. It is also true that this pursuit holds the flavour of various types of appeared as a distinctive product in numerous Slovenian beekeepers still like is still highly popular among Slovenians, flower, and similar to this is forest honey. the world. It is a noble sparkling wine to decorate their bee houses to this day and whenever we read reports in the Acacia honey has a gentle flavour and is with the flavour of honey. It should be along the old patterns, but using modern newspapers of the accidental killing of almost colourless, while linden honey Bee tourism especially emphasised that all beekeepers A few years ago (2003) Ljubljana motifs. bees by various modern poisons that are is noted for its freshness and chestnut are also faithful guardians of an unspoilt hosted the world beekeeping congress At the same time we should mention used in farming, it is almost as though honey has a slightly stronger flavour. environment, since they are aware Apimondia, which was attended by that throughout their history, Slovenian we are reading about a national disaster. Spruce honey has a slight fragrance of that bees cannot survive in a polluted several thousand beekeepers from all beekeepers have also devoted special People in these parts have been involved resin, as does fir honey. environment. Another important fact: over the world. In addition to a series of care to the bee houses themselves. In in making honey and keeping bees for Apicultural products include numerous in Slovenia we produce around 2,000 expert meetings, guests visited numerous previous centuries the favourite was the centuries, since honey was the only other items that have become tons of honey a year, which is sufficient Slovenian beekeeping centres, individual long, low wooden kranjič bee house, accessible sweetener. Historically, the indispensable in home treatment of for domestic needs, and when the year is private apicultural enterprises and of which was light for handling and also Slovenians have also accounted for a many modern-day illnesses. A favourite particularly good, some honey can also medicinal product for strengthening course the other natural attractions of be exported.

42 43 NATURAL TRAILS

Frequent gatherings of mushroom- pickers and numerous mushroom exhibitions Every year gatherings take place in various places around the country organised by mushroom societies, under the umbrella of a general association. Visitors to these events are able to see This summer has been quite a dry the many types of mushrooms picked in one, which means fewer mushrooms. Slovenia, get to know them a bit better, Many forests, particularly those on the talk about them, exchange experiences Pokljuka plateau, are so full of people and, moreover, try dishes prepared with in the autumn months that some joke mushrooms. Mushroom exhibitions also that the pickers sometimes outnumber take place every year as part of a series of the mushrooms. But there are still many events called Narava-zdravje, or ‘nature Juš Turk, photo: Darinka Mladenovič other areas containing mushrooms in and health’. However, Slovenia does have abundance, particularly in Dolenjska, a fairly strict regulation on the picking, Notranjska and in the woods of Goričko sale and protection of some 70 varieties in Prekmurje. The mushroom season in of wild mushroom. Slovenia is (still) Slovenia lasts from the end of March, However, in the last 30 years, many when pickers go mad for Yellow Morels pickers have become concerned about (Morchella esculenta), which are usually the excessive bear population, and fairly few in number, to the colder more particularly by the presence of a paradise for autumn months, when the frost puts infected ticks, responsible for tick-borne paid to the last of the Dingy Agarics encephalitis, a serious disease for which (Tricholoma portentosum). Some there is a vaccine, and the slightly milder mushrooms appear, although not every Borelliosis, for which a vaccine has not mushroom-pickers year, in July and August, and most in yet been developed. Infected ticks are, September and November (only, of unfortunately, expanding rapidly to For such a small country, Slovenia is lucky to have recreational activity over the past few decades. For many course, if the weather conditions favour areas of forest and shrubland in which three different climates – the Alpine, Mediterranean people there is no healthier or more pleasant activity than their growth). Porcini mushrooms they were previously not present. This and Pannonian – for they give rise to an extremely wide an early morning walk through the freshness of forest (Boletus edulis), for example, were still partly prevents the intensive gathering variety of different mushrooms.A nd indeed, mushroom- and glade, regardless of whether one spots a mushroom growing last December, the first few days of mushrooms – and of course spoils for picking has probably been the country’s most widespread or not. of which were unusually warm. the fun for many pickers.

44 45 NATURAL TRAILS Mushrooms as food, but only as an accom- The paniment development In Slovenia, which can, as we say, truly boast of a large diversity of mushrooms, of mycology people know that mushrooms contain a large amount of water and very few from Clusius calories. And they are aware that they differ from meat by their exceptional to today aromaticness. So, from both aspects, it leave even the best vegetable behind in its Mycology in the Slovenian lands began wake. Those who know a bit more about developing when the greatest botanist the ingredients of mushrooms point out of the 16th century, the Dutchman Where are that they also have a good deal of fibre, Carolus Clusius, arrived in Vienna at vitamins, minerals, unsaturated fatty the invitation of Habsburg Emperor these little acids and other health-giving substances. Maximilian II and began to make a study That said, we must treat them with great of the mushrooms found in the lands paths? care. While it is true that the majority of of the Austro-Hungarian Empire; in mushrooms found in Slovenia are edible, Slovenia, he paid particular attention to So goes the Slovenian national song. there are still a little over 30 varieties that those found in the northeast. His book These paths are disappearing because are poisonous – and around a third of Fungorum in Panoniis observatorum Man is increasingly and more intensively these carry a risk of death if consumed. brevis historia, written in Latin, which encroaching on forests and glades. Here But if pickers are familiar with only a few more or less signalled the start of the is an example: even up until a few years varieties, it too often occurs that others scientific study of mushrooms, describes ago, there was a paradise for mushroom simply trample on and kick them, which around 120 varieties of ‘higher fungi’. enthusiasts in an area south of Slovenia’s does a great disservice to the beauty of Slovenian writings on mushrooms capital, Ljubljana. Everything grew there, nature. Or else some who don’t possess Artificial appeared soon after this. At first they and alongside one particular thicket one the requisite knowledge might cook were fairly basic and clumsy, but they could pick up to 30 porcini mushrooms. up a dish containing harmful or even cultivation of were nevertheless important because At four spots one could find that most highly poisonous mushrooms, such certain fungi were given the names that highly prized specimen, the Caesar’s as one of the thousands of varieties of mushrooms had been given them by ordinary people Mushroom or Amanita caesarea. Today gilled mushroom, alongside the edible in their own language. At the end of the that area has been completely built on. porcinis, chanterelles, large Parasol No one need fear artificially cultivated 18th century, a physician from Idrija, A. But despite such examples of Man’s Mushrooms and red-Cap Boletus mushrooms, which have for many years Scopoli, wrote two books describing 190 penetration into the natural world, mushrooms (Leccinum aurantiacum) been on sale in shops and markets year- varieties of fungi found on Slovenian Slovenia can still boast such an array of the that almost everyone is familiar with. round. It has been established that Man territory, also giving several of them the widest variety of mushrooms and fungi These gilled varieties include the most has been engaged in the cultivation of names familiar to the native population. that there is enough left over for export, poisonous toadstools, such as the Fool’s such mushrooms for an extremely long The study of fungi was continued in mostly to Italy. More than 10 tons of fresh Mushroom and Destroying Angel time. The Japanese and Chinese have Slovenia by Simon Robič and W. Voss, mushrooms are sold at Ljubljana market (Amanita verna and Amanita virosa), the been growing shitake mushrooms, which followed later by Fran Dolšak; recent every year; these are, of course, mostly Death Cap (Amanita phalloides) and the have numerous health benefits, for decades have seen more detailed and porcini, chanterelles (Cantharellus), Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria), which 2,000 years. The Greek and Romans also scientific work on mushrooms published Honey Fungi (Armillariella), Gypsy is otherwise one of the forest’s most knew how to cultivate several varieties by many other writers. The latest books Mushrooms (Rozites caperata), Parasol beautiful ornaments. It also happens of mushrooms, and field mushrooms come furnished with even better and Mushrooms (Macrolepiote), Dingy that someone picks and is subsequently (Agaricus) have been grown by the more detailed colour photographs. But Agarics (Tricholoma portentosum) and poisoned by a mushroom that has not French and others since 1645. Oyster be careful – if you wish to recognise a Saffron Milk Caps (Lactarius deliciosus) yet fully grown, because they do not mushrooms (Pleurotus), pine-tree fungi particular mushroom properly, you with their distinctive red ‘milk’. Years recognise the variety to which it belongs. and, more recently, shitake mushrooms cannot rely simply on a photograph. It ago, sales at the market were overseen by Or else they suffer digestive problems have all been cultivated in Slovenia is much better to be shown what’s what mushroom experts to prevent poisoning because they have consumed an old or in recent decades, in addition to the by an expert, who is able to tell you all its or, at the very least, digestive problems. half-rotten mushroom. double-spore field mushroom. most important characteristics.

46 47 Autumn Photo: Darinka Mladenovič