Ljubljana August - September 2014

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Ljubljana August - September 2014

Emona Ljubljana’s 2000th birthday promises to be quite the celebration

Ptuj Find out more about the oldest town in all of inyourpocket.com Slovenia Issue Nº37 FREE COPY city of opp ortunities

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www.argentino.si / mobile: +386 31 600 900 InYourPocket 143x210 0313.indd 1 20.3.13 9:31 Contents

ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES

Arrival & Transport 8 Planes, trains, buses, taxis and transfers Emona 13 Happy 2000th birthday Ljubljana! Culture & Events 15 Festivals, exhibitions, music and much more Restaurants 25 Everything from A to V(egetarian) Cafés 42 Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes Nightlife 46 Dance and drink the night away Sightseeing 50 Bridges, museums, the castle and more Kids 61 Keep the little ones happy this summer The view from the bottom of Nebotičnik (skyscraper) Shopping 62 Embassies & Expats 75 Where to go and what to buy A special feature for foreign residents Where to Stay 68 Around Ljubljana - Kamnik 78 Business suites to hostel bunks The jewel of Slovenia’s heart Bled 81 More than just a lake Škofja Loka 82 A medieval town 20km from Ljubljana Maribor 85 Slovenia’s second city Ptuj 88 The oldest city in the entire country Postojna 92 Home of the world famous cave Slovenian Spas 95 The ultimate relaxation Directory 99 Maps & Index 100 The Ljubljanica - gorgeous whatever the time of day facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 5 Foreword The FIFA World Cup may be over, but the party hasn’t stopped. It isn’t often than a city turns 2000 years old, but that is exactly what Ljubljana is doing this month. Well, not exactly Ljubljana per se, but the 2000th anniversary of the Roman settlement of Emona, on which modern-day Lju- Publisher bljana was founded, is celebrated this August. As is to be ESSENTIAL Ljubljana In Your PocketCIT Y GUIDES expected, the revelries will take centre stage all month, Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia with a variety of exhibitions, events and tours available to Tel. +386 30 316 602 all and sundry. Roman soldiers will roam the streets, as we’ll [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com rub our eyes, confused as to what century it actually is. It Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., [email protected] promises to be quite the party. ISSN 1855-3486 This 37th edition of Ljubljana In Your Pocket has plenty ©IQBATOR d.o.o. more to it than this grandiose occasion however. Up-to- Printed Evrografis d.o.o. date information will keep even the most Ljubljana-savvy Published Published six times per year of visitors on their toes, as we continue to explore every Editorial nook and every cranny that this gorgeous city has hidden Editor John Bills within. We even have a special section for those in town Writer John Bills, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard Schofield, James Cosier, Yuri Barron with little ones as well, including a family centre that really Design Radomir Lazović is everything any child has ever dreamt of. Consulting Craig Turp What else? Well, our desire to introduce our readers to eve- Photography Ljubljana Tourism, Branka Jovanović, Dunja ry part of Slovenia takes us first to Kamnik and its gorgeous Wedam, Tadej Mulej, Urša Culiberg, Shutterstock Cover photo Dunja Wedam, courtesy of Tourism Ljubljana. mountain ranges, followed by the north-eastern town of Ptuj, so head to page 88 to learn how to pronounce that Sales & Circulation seemingly unpronounceable word, as well as to find out Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina, Leon what delights wait for you there. We also take another look Šlajpah at Maribor, Bled, Škofja Loka and Postojna. The festival that you voted Best Summer Festival is upon Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright us as well, as SchengenFest aims to achieve its aim of cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication getting sexier every year. We’ve also had some internal may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for In Your Pocket changes, with our hirsute American editor the purpose of review, without written permission from the making way for a slightly less hirsute, overly polite Welsh- publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, men. The pleasure is ours. As always, any and all feedback Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). is appreciated, whether it is on Facebook, Twitter, Insta- gram, email or carrier pigeon, although we suspect the Maps Monolit d.o.o. latter to be fairly unlikely. About IYP

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In ESTONIA Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Li- LATVIA RUSSIA thuania - so much so that we are to- NORTHERN LITHUANIA day the largest publisher of locally- IRELAND IRELAND BELARUS -produced city guides in the world. NETHERLANDS POLAND The recent publication of a guide to GERMANY UKRAINE the islands of the Dutch Caribbean BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC - our first in the Western Hemisphere AUSTRIA HUNGARY - has taken the number of guides pu- SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA SLOVENIACROATIA blished each year by In Your Pocket to ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA well over five million, spread across MONTENEGRO FYR MACEDONIA more than 100 cities on three con- ALBANIA tinents. And there is more to come: GREECE make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on DUTCH CARIBBEAN Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpoc- SOUTH AFRICA ket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

6 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com BEST HOTELS AND ACCOMMODATION IN LJUBLJANA 2014

Kollman What’s the best BOUTIQUE HOTEL in Ljubljana? Adora Hotel 26.51% Lesar Angel 17.32% Vander Urbani Resort 14.96% Cubo 13.65% Nox 9.45% Pri Cesarju

What’s the best BUSINESS HOTEL in Ljubljana? What’s the best GUESTHOUSE in Ljubljana? Austria Trend 26.61% AloRooms Vrbinc B&B 24.35% Plaza 23.66% Pri Žabarju 20.00% Birokrat 17.74% Aparthotel Vila Minka 9.57% Grand Hotel Union 9.41% Stari Tišler 9.57% Sheraton Four Points Mons 8.33% Portal 8.70%

What’s the best APARTMENTS/ROOMS What’s the best MID-RANGE HOTEL in Ljubljana? in Ljubljana? Meksiko 27.75% Kollmann 29.22% Ljubljana Resort 20.57% Tour AS 28.55% Bit Centar 15.79% Meščanka 15.69% Park 13.88% Emona Luxury Rooms 8.35% Ahotel 5.26% Kavarna Maček Rooms 5.84%

What’s the best HOSTEL in Ljubljana? What’s the best HOTEL AROUND LJUBLJANA? Celica 36.64% Pri Cesarju 34.44% AdHoc 25.91% Dvor Jezeršek 27.15% Vila Veselova 11.54% Ambient 10.60% Aladin 6.28% Kongo Hotel and Casino 5.30% Print 5.67% Dvor Tacan 4.64%

Celica Alorooms Adora Hotel Arriving & Getting Around

town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay A Word From Our Mayor and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, For me, Ljubljana is the most and make sure the meter is running before you depart. beautiful city in the the world Arriving by bus – unique for its special posi- All national and international buses arrive at the central bus tion in the heart of Slovenia. station which is located directly in front of the main train sta- As a city with rich history and tion. The ‘temporary’ prefabricated station building features lit- cultural heritage, it attracts tle in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the ever more visitors every year train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its from near and far. The most kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt important ambassadors for car rental kiosk, with the only other useful facility being a small Ljubljana are undoubtedly internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket win- our residents, who live the in- dow Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above. tercultural dialogue and with their openness, kindness, and Arriving by car hospitality always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth. Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and Welcome to Ljubljana! Zoran Janković excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road Mayor from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agree- and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana ment countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier. be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone. With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly Urbana Card easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town. The city bus operator, LPP, has finally introduced the long-awaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic tick- Arriving in Ljubljana eting that will eventually replace the previous hodge- podge system of payment that included tokens, coins Arriving by plane and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km north- is similar to those already used in other cities, such as west of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is co- can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many ordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus locations including various tobacconists and news- (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP airport’s website for a complete schedule. offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit Arriving by train can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and same locations as well as some three dozen green made it to the main train station building, find everything Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When you need including an ATM and press stand selling top- getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. the green card readers at the front entrance and €1.20 Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with travel, including unlimited transfers. the toilets conveniently located next door. Getting to

8 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around

Parking Garages

PH Kapitelj Located along the Ljubljanica River beneath the modern Kapitelj and Urban Villa complex, which houses both shops, offices, residences and two embassies, the garage is only 100m or so from Public Transport the famous Dragon Bridge and Tržnica market. Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walk- While there are only 261 spaces, you can normally ing distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people find a free one.QE-3, Poljanski nasip 4, tel. +386 (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members (0)1 360 36 48/+386 (0)51 366 510, phkapitelj@ of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Tito- is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150. era antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfort- PH Meksiko able ride. Schedules are displayed at all stops, and fares can Only opened in 2010, the Mexico Parking Ga- only be paid using an Urbana Card or a Slovene mobile phone. rage is a large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slovenia’s main medical facilities and just LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) down the street from the central bus and railway Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. stations. There are a total of 624 spaces, and the There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski ground floor is home to a popular German super- Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station.QD-2, Slov- market.QF-2, Njegošova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 enska 56, tel. +386 (0)14 30 51 74, [email protected], www.lpp.si. 38/+386 (0)51 366 510, phmeksiko@kranjska-id. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while addition- Airport al hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) monthly fees are as low as €150. Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km north- PH Šentpeter west of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medi- country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style cal Centre at the intersection of Zaloška and restaurant, a couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency Njegoševa Streets, Šentpeter Parking House exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open boasts some 500 parking spaces.QF-3, Zaloška 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). 1, tel. +386 (0)1 430 59 02/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle [email protected], www.parkiraj. (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.QZgornji €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20, The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as [email protected], www.lju-airport.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. low as €150.

PH Trdinova Trains Located in the very centre of the city, only a short Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange, main job of running an efficient network with clean modern trains courthouse and various corporate head offices, that are usually on time. Their website (www.slo-zeleznice.si) the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces. contains a wealth of information in English, including live in- QD-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 230 96 00/+386 formation on train delays as well as an online timetable. See (0)5 136 65 10, [email protected], the national and international train schedules in this guide www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. From for the main destinations. 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while addition- Train Station (Železniška Postaja) al hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking monthly fees are as low as €150. heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably cen- facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 9 Arriving & Getting Around

tral train station is just north of the main action. See Arriv- ing for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, Vinjeta if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, Slovenia requires all motor ve- with signs and departure screens in English.QE-1, Trg Os- hicles travelling on Slovenian vobodilne Fronte, tel. +386 (0)1291 33 32, potnik.info@ highways to have a vinjeta slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Open 05:00 - 22:00. (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily ob- Buses tained at nearly all gas stations Dozens of regular bus connections are available to efficiently and kiosks. Yearly/monthly/ whisk you to all corners of the country. See also the national weekly stickers are €110/30/15 and international bus schedules in this guide. for cars, €220/80/40 for larger vehicles (ie with a height of over 1.3m above the front Ljubljana Bus Station (Avtobusno axis) and €55/30/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware Postajališče) that border police will likely not remind you to purchase Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket do so. For more info check www.dars.si.Qwww.dars.si. from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always Their large fleet of new cars has everything from the incred- check in the bus station to make sure. The bus station op- ibly fuel-efficient Volkswagen Up! to larger vans and luxury erates many national routes as well as regular international models - there are even some with automatic transmissions services.QD/E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. +386 (0)1 for Americans.QD-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 434 01 47, 234 46 00, fax +386 (0)1 234 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ [email protected], www.hertz.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat ap-ljubljana.si, www.ap-ljubljana.si. Open 05:00 - 22:30, 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30. Taxis Car Rental Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting Hertz rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of One of the most known and trusted names in car rentals has €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and num- a total of eight locations across Slovenia, including an office in ber of passenger. Waiting usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering the centre of Ljubljana within easy walking distance of most a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips. hotels, as well as at the airports in Ljubljana and Portorož. They also conveniently offer free delivery and collection Laguna Taxi service within 20km of any office during working hours. QJ-1, Celovška 228, tel. +386 (0)31 492 299/+386 (0)1 511 23 14, fax +386 (0)1 511 23 14, [email protected], www. taxi-laguna.com. GoOpti Metro Taxi QM-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. +386 (0)80 11 90/+386 (0)4 124 02 00, [email protected], www.metroprevozi.net/ 01-320-45-30 TaxiPrevozi.htm. GoOpti.com Low cost shuttle to Slovenia Taxi Rondo Qtel. +386 (0)70 900 900/+386 (0)31 225 588, info@taxi- rondo.si, www.taxi-rondo.si. Venice from Ljubljana € 14 Transfers Slovenia-based GoOpti is the region’s number one low Na Letališče cost airport shuttle service, offering transfers to and Getting to and from the airport is always a source of conster- from airports in neighbouring countries and Slovenia. nation for many travellers. Na Letališče is here to take that Departures can be booked between Ljubljana to some anxiety away, offering a comfortable shuttle service to and 20 airports in the region, including Venice, Munich and from Ljubljana airport, as well as many others in the area in- Vienna, using GoOpti’s novel online booking system. cluding Trieste, Venice and Vienna. Prices are fixed, starting at Rates begin at as little as €9 per person.Qtel. +386 €8, and discounts are on offer for larger groups. A free bottle (0)1 320 45 30, [email protected], www.goopti.com. of water is even provided.Qtel. +386 (0)40 93 53 85, info@ naletalisce.si, www.naletalisce.si. 10 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com City Basics

Climate SYMBOL key

Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted 30 150 B Outside seating H Conference facilities 20 120 T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled 10 F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 90 0 R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly -10 60 K Restaurant J Old town location -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D 30 D Sauna C Swimming pool I Fireplace W Wifi Crime and safety ros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner is unlikely to affect short-term visitors (which we’ve also horses and a Jože Plečnik design. avoided by adorning our bicycle with flowers). Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at any hour, although common sense says avoid going deep into Tivoli park in the middle Smoking of the night. Out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers Cigarettes can only be purchased by people over 18. Slo- not paying attention to pedestrians are the only real threat venia recently banned smoking in public indoor places, to safety, as well as slow-to-react automatic doors that except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars. seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana, although these only really cause embarrassment. Toilets Drinking Clean public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway west of Alcohol can only be sold to people over 18, and sadly after Zvezda Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at Triple Bridge 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores. (07:00 - 21:00). Money Exchange rates Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 eu- 1 EUR € = 1.34 US $ = 0.79 UK £ = 1.21 CHF = 8.31 CNY = 137 ¥ = 116 дин = 48.7 руб (27 July 2014) basic data Market Values Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, pric- Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) es in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable Area increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here 20,273 square kilometres are some typical everyday products and prices: Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hun- Product Price garian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 Official languages Slice of pizza € 1.80 Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Slice of burek € 2.00 Local time Cup of coffee € 1.10 Central European (GMT + 1hr) Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50 Longest river Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50 Bottle of local beer in a shop € 1.10 Sava (221km in Slovenia) Pint of beer in a pub € 2.70 Highest mountain Pack of cigarettes € 3.20 Triglav 2,864m. Single bus ride € 1.20 Borders Movie ticket € 4.90 Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia Litre of petrol € 1.49 670km Taxi ride across town € 5.00

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 11 Ljubljana celebrates 2000 years of Emona Exactly 2000 years ago, in what is now the city centre Ljubljana Urban Development of modern Ljubljana, the Roman colony of Emona was 11 June - 14 Sept More details can be found at our website’ after them constructed. As first urban settlement in the Ljubljana Mutlimedia exhibition presenting the diverse history of area, the outpost played an important role in the defence urban development in the Ljubljana area. systems of the Roman Empire, and flourished until the 5th century. This year Ljubljana celebrates its 2000th an- Emona: A City of the Empire niversary with a special cultural programme. Visitors can 30 May 2014 - 31 May 2015 More details can be found at our website’ after them discover and experience Emona on special guided tours, This exhibition provides a comprehensive overview of the which even include tastings of ancient Roman cuisine. In Roman city of Emona. Learn about the city’s birth, life and museums, galleries and open-air sites there will be vari- ultimate decline, as well as the everyday life of its resi- ous interesting exhibitions, living historical events that will dents, and the heritage they left behind. carry spectators back to the 1st century, workshops for children and adults, as well as lots of other events, more info about which can be found at www.visitljubljana. Guided Tours com. Experiencing the Roman city of Emona Experience the remnants of Roman Emona accompanied by Roman legionnaires and a Roman guide. Visit archeo- Events logical parks, take a look in the City Museum of Ljubljana, Ave, Emona! and try old Roman specialities. 22-24 Aug 2014, Kongresni Trg & Zvezda Park Schedule: 1 May - 30 Sept, Wed and Fri at 16:00 (except For three days in August Emona will come to life in Kongresni in the case of rain). Price: €15, children (4-12) €7.50 trg and Zvezda park, with Roman citizens, legionnaires and indigenous people settling there. Costumed societies from Experiencing the Roman city of Emona by Slovenia and abroad will recreate events from the time of torchlight Emona. You will witness life in a Roman camp, displays of arts Go 2000 years in the past and discover life Roman Emo- and crafts, dances and culinary skills as well as roman military na at night by torchlight. Visitors are accompanied by a skills and gladiator fights. You will also be able to buy artisan Roman legionnaire and led by a Roman guide, who will products from the roman. unveil the rich heritage of Roman Ljubljana at archeological sites and hidden corners of the city, where you can Exhibitions also try old Roman specialities. Josef Koudelka: Vestiges 1991-2012 Schedule: 1 May - 30 Sept, Thur and Sat at 20:00 (except More details can be found at our website’ after them 20 May - 3 Sept in the case of rain). Price: €16, children (4-12) €8 The exhibition features a series of photographs by renowned photographer Josef Koudelka, depicting the an- All tours are in both Slovene and English, and start at cient monuments of the Mediterranean region. TIC on Stritarjeva Ulica, lasting 2hrs. Group tours in Slovene, English, German and Spanish can also be Aquae Iasae arranged on request starting at €10 per person. For 21 May - 26 Oct 2014 More details can be found at our website’ after them more information and tickets contact TIC at tel. 01 306 This exhibition will present the latest archeological discover- 1215, email [email protected], or see www.visitlju- ies from the Varaždin spas in Croatia. bljana.com.

12 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com EmonaSightseeing Trail ArcheologicAl PArks

In 14 AD Jesus was in the middle of his awkward teen- age years, Tiberius became the 2nd emperor of the Ro- man Empire upon the death of his stepfather Augus- tus, widespread famine hit China forcing many people to turn to cannibalism, and the Romans founded a permanent civilian settlement along a picturesque river in the shadow of the Alps called Emona, which of course would later grow into a quaint little world capital called Ljubljana. In addition to lending its name to various 21st cen- Emonan House tury establishments (see hotel Emonec, restaurant Emonan housE Emonska Klet and the Emona train to Vienna), this A short walk south of the City Museum, at the edge early Roman settlement left its mark on - or rather un- of the present-day city centre, is the Emonan House der - modern Ljubljana in the form of well-preserved archeological park, which was only discovered during ruins located within the city’s original 435m by 523m excavations in the early 1960s. The remains date from ground plan. Of all the remnants that this early civi- the late 4th and early 5th centuries, and judging from lisation left behind, three separate sites have been various amenities it was likely home to a wealthy and extensively excavated and opened to the public: the respectable Roman family. Emonan House, an early Christian centre and the Ro- The central dwelling place was what is termed a sum- man wall - all of which are comprise the City Museum mer room, with a floor made up of a two-coloured geo- of Ljubljana’s archeological parks. metrical mosaic, which only the rich could afford at that time. On the other side, the passage led to the so-called Early Christian CEntrE winter room, featuring a preserved hypocaust heating The Early Christian Centre is situated on Erjavčeva Cesta, system. The building was also connected to a sewage just behind the Cankarjev Dom cultural centre. Excava- system: waste water left the building through small tions unearthed a Roman residential building, which, drains covered by stones into a larger collection sewage like the majority of Emonan houses, was built at the be- drain (sewer) flowing below the nearby road and lead- ginning of the 1st century. During its nearly 500 years of ing to the Ljubljanica River.QC-5, Mirje 4, www.mgml. existence it was rebuilt several times, with the first major si. Open from April to October. Appointments and rebuilding undertaken in the early 4th century, when it information in the City Museum. Admission €4/2.50. was likely turned into private baths. In the second half of the 4th century, one section of the house was rebuilt as roman Wall an early Christian chapel, and shortly thereafter a rect- Perhaps the most impressive of all the Emona monu- angular baptistery was built alongside the central court- ments are the former city walls, which can be found yard. The baptistery floor is covered in a multi-coloured along Mirje just south of the city centre. Originally sur- mosaic with still visible inscriptions bearing the names rounding the town, the walls were nearly uniformly of the Emonans who donated the funds for its construc- 2.5m thick and reached heights of between 6-8m, with tion, which confirms that there was already a strong four main gates. In a period of rapid urban expansion community of Christians residing in Emona at that time. following the first World War, the Ljubljana city coun- QB-4, Erjavčeva 18, www.mgml.si. Open from April cil made the decision to tear down the last remaining till October. Appointments and information in the section of the walls so they could sell off the land for City Museum. Admission €4/2.50. development and alleviate traffic congestion. However, thanks largely to the efforts of France Stelé, who was then head of the city’s monuments office, there was a public outcry against the proposal, leading the council to reverse its decision and restore the walls. The design of the restoration works was awarded to famed Slovene architect Jože Plečnik in 1926, and although his blend- ing of modern and classical elements are now considered one of the Ljubljana’s top attractions, at the time it proved quite controversial and the project was not completed until 1934. Explore the wall’s passageways, pillars and pyramid on a sunny day and decide for yourself.QB-5, Mirje, www.mgml.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. Admission free. A mosaic from the Early Christian Centre facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket AugustAugust - September 2014 1365 A CITY OF THE EMPIRE EXHIBITION AT THE CITY MUSEUM OF LJUBLJANA 30. 5. 2014 - 31. 5. 2015 Being the first town in the Ljubljana Basin built according to a plan, Emona was a showcase for the Roman Empire’s spectacular power which significantly changed the appearance of the world and everyday life of the people who had lived here for millennia. Welcome to Emona!

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EVENTS IN SEPTEMBER

1 - Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra @ Cankarjev dom 2 - Litostroy Brass Band @ Concert on a Boat 3 - Jan Kus Trio @ Gornji trg 4 - European Day of Jewish Culture @ Židovskavlica 4-6 - International Wine Fair @ Ljubljana Exhibi- tion and Convention Centre 5 - Dan D @ Ljubljana Castle EVENTS IN AUGUST 5 - Gramatik @ Križanke

1 - Joe and the Rhythm Boys @ Strings Rock Bar 6 - Countryside in the City @ Pogačarjev trg 7 - Ten Foot Pole @ Gala Hala 2 - Joss Stone @ Križanke 9 - Vevče Brass Band @ Concert on a Boat 3 - Wooden Legs @ Prulček 11 - Cryptopsy @ Gala Hala 4 - Wiener Brahms Trio @ Križanke 12 - Jungle @ Kino Šiška 5 - Peach Tape @ Prulček 13 - Slovenian Pop Song Festival @ Križanke 6 - Only Lovers Left Alive (film) @ Kinodvor 14-21 - Ex Ponto Festival (theatre) @ various 7 - Nuška Drašček @ Mestni muzej venues 15 - Masked Intruder @ Gala Hala 8 - Magic in the Moonlight (film) @ Ljubljana Castle 16 - Vič Brass Band @ Concert on a Boat 11 - Saša Dejanovič @ Križanke 19 - Odprta Kuhna Open Kitchen @ Pogačarjev 12 - Converge @ Klub Pekarna, Maribor trg 14 - Katja Sinkovič @ Križanke 20 - Ljubljana Wine Route @ various venues 15 - Odprta Kuhna Open Kitchen @ Pogačarjev trg 26 - Il Divo @ Stožice 17 - Medieval Day @ Stari trg and Gornji trg 26 - Odprta Kuhna Open Kitchen @ Pogačarjev trg 18 - Casta Diva @ Mestni muzej 27 - ARTish Festival @ Gornji trg 20 - Mia Žnidrič & the Steve Kink trio @ Kongresni trg 29 - Finntroll @ Gala Hala 22-24 - Ave, Emona! @ Kongresni trg 23-31 - Mladi Levi International Festival @ The Old KLUB KMŠ Power Station - Every Wednesday - Hangover Hangout with excellent 24 - Rollin Humes @ Prulček entertainment 26 - Vlado Kreslin @ Križanke - Every Second Thursday - Trudat Hip-Hop BBQ Party 27 - Moscow Soloists @ Slovenian Philharmonic 28-31 - Amateur Road Cycling World Championships 29 - Odprta Kuhna @ Pogačarjev trg Many more events online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 30 - ARTish Festival @ Gornji trg

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 15 Culture and Events The picturesque Slovene landscape in early summer evenings. The majestic architecture of castles and churches. The glow Festivals 12.09 Friday - 16.09 Tuesday of evening fires. Tasting wonderful wines. These exciting Festival Lutke 2014 On the cutting edge of puppetry, the 12th annual and emotional moments are accompanied with music Lutke Festival takes place in the middle of September and promises to be an enchanting five days for both played on authentic instruments by the finest musicians youngsters and adults alike. Ljubljana is no stranger to the art, and the festival showcases the continuing evo- from all over the world. lution of the skill with 27 performances from a total of 14 countries promising to captivate the audience. Ex- hibitions, workshops and street performances will also www.seviqc-brezice.si take place, including a masterclass workshop hosted by one of the great masters of Shadow Theatre, Fabrizio Montecchi.QKrekov trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 300 09 70, [email protected], www.lgl.si.

Exhibitions 21.06 Saturday - 15.05 Friday We Never Imagined Such A War 22. june - 6. december Commemorating the 100-year anniversary of the outbreak 2014 of World War One, ‘We Never Imagined Such A War’ is a A haunting look back at WW1 with ‘We Never Imagined Such a War’ thought-provoking exhibition on show at the National Museum of Contemporary History. Pieced together from Who Are Our Heroes? (Kdo So Naši Heroji?) arly the personal stories of both civilians and conscripts, the The older we get, the more cynical we tend to grow towards terrible journey across the battlefield is brought to life by the idea of heroes, of supermen and women capable of life- photographs and the personal objects of those most affect- changing acts. As children, these larger than life characters ed. Archive footage and documentaries are also on show, captivate us, and we would be hard-pushed to deny that we music including a five-part film produced by RTV Slovenia. Learn didn’t harbour dreams of being superheroes ourselves. Our more about the war that saw the death of Austria-Hungary concept of what a hero is undoubtedly changes over years. and the birth of a new era for Slovenia.QNational Museum The Slovenian Youth Theatre’s new season includes five of Contemporary History, Celovška 23, www.muzej-nz. premieres with different outlooks on the theme of heroism, e si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. each from its own unique view. For more information, check festival out the official website.QVilharjeva 11, tel. +386 (0)1 425 Seviqc Brežice Festival 33 12, [email protected], en.mladinsko.com. 22.06 Sunday - 06.12 Saturday The Seviqc Brežice Festival is synonymous with early Special Events music in Slovenia and one of its most important cultural Artish events. Most of the distinguished invited artists perform A free monthly event that brings together Ljubljana’s arts a carefully selected programme, which shows the colour- community and the general public for a day of art, music, fulness of musical styles from different European coun- theatre and fun. Local artists and craftsmen display and tries, from the middle ages right up to the beginning of sell their work, while also leading free creative workshops the 20th century. This diverse programme is the very aim on different topics each month, organising fun activities for of the Seviqc Brežice Festival, whose name comes from children, raising money for charity and of course discussing v the abbreviation of the Latin expression Semper Viva their art. Held the last Saturday of every month, in autumn Quam Creata, which means ‘Always live as created’. the event moves indoors to Kino Šiška.QVarious venues, One of the most important early music festivals in Eu- www.artish.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission free. rope, the performances will take your mind and soul back through time and space in some of the most beautiful Odprta Kuhna and atmospheric concert halls in the country. To make Every Friday from March to October this year Pogačarjev Trg in getting to the concerts easier, the festival also arranges Ljubljana’s old town will be transformed into one large ‘open direct transportation - a so-called ‘Festibus’ - to each kitchen’ featuring the mouthwatering culinary creations of venue from Ljubljana. More information can be found in many of Slovenia’s top restaurants, as well as a diverse selec- English on the official website.QVarious venues across tion of tourist farms, local food and beverage vendors and Slovenia, tel. +386 (0)1 242 08 12/+386 (0)51 30 30 40, even individual chefs. The irresistible sights, smells and tastes [email protected], www.seviqc-brezice.si. will be accompanied by the festive sounds of various musical Festibus transportation from Ljubljana to all the concert venues. and other performances making for a lively atmosphere that’s More information: Ars Ramovš zavod za umetnost, marketing, promocijo in investiranje 16 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com T: +386 (0)1 242 08 12, M: +386 (0)51 30 30 40, E: [email protected]

The picturesque Slovene landscape in early summer evenings. The majestic architecture of castles and churches. The glow of evening fires. Tasting wonderful wines. These exciting and emotional moments are accompanied with music played on authentic instruments by the finest musicians from all over the world.

www.seviqc-brezice.si

201422. june - 6. december arly music efestival

Festibus transportation from Ljubljana to all the concert venues. More information: Ars Ramovš zavod za umetnost, marketing, promocijo in investiranje T: +386 (0)1 242 08 12, M: +386 (0)51 30 30 40, E: [email protected]

Culture and Events not to be missed. The event is also a truly ‘open’ affair, so if you’ve always fancied yourself a master in the kitchen then this Conference Venues is the perfect opportunity to try to hand at cooking next to Slo- Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention venia’s best - contact the organisers to find out how you can Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) participate. A full list of all current participants can be found GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention on the official website, but be warned that after viewing the centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of names and the photos it will be impossible to stay away from Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. Pogačarjev Trg on Fridays this summer!QPogačarjev Trg, tel. With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accom- +386 (0)41 968 491, [email protected], odprtakuhna.si. modate thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 park- Open 08:00 - 19:00. Free admission. ing spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from the main train and bus stations.QD-1, Dunajska Concert Halls 18, tel. +386 (0)13 00 26 11, [email protected], Hala Tivoli www.gr-sejem.si. QA/B-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)1 430 67 50, justina. [email protected], www.zavod-tivoli.si. Cultural Centres Opera & Ballet Ljubljana To be informed on what’s going on in town, cultural cen- QB/C-3, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 11 766/+386 tres provide up to date information on events, festivals, (0)31 696 600, [email protected], www.opera.si. workshops and more.

Slovenian Philharmonic (Slovenska Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Filharmonija) Centre) Ljubljana has a proud history as a town of music, and Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of the Slovenian Philharmonic is its beating heart and clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dread- soul. This delightful building was built in 1891 on the locked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately foundations of the former state theatre, which was little of the website is in English so it would be a case destroyed by fire just four years earlier. The entire of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it building was renovated in 2001, the 300th anniver- provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the sary of the original philharmonic, one of the oldest dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a institutions of its kind in the world. The live music crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in program features a frequent variety of world-class non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing performances, so be sure to catch one if possible. and how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out QC-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 241 08 00, both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole [email protected], www.filharmonija.si. set-up.QF-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org.

Cankarjev Dom Buy Tickets This complex from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, film, exhibitions and congresses. Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance QB-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. +386 (0)12 41 71 00, info@ at the venue, or from ticket agencies. cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si. Eventim Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, Galleries including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events These are some of the city’s more established smaller and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia. galleries - most of which have art available for pur- QB-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)14 30 24 05, info@ chase. For info on larger galleries and museums please eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en. refer to the Sightseeing section.

Tourist Information Centre Aksioma Project Space The helpful staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist informa- Operated by the Aksioma Institute for Contemporary Arts - a tion centre can answer pretty much any question non-profit cultural institution based in Ljubljana - the gallery you have about the city, provide you with maps and is interested in projects that take advantage of new technolo- countless other brochures, and also sell tickets for con- gies in order to investigate and discuss the structures of (post) certs, shows and various other events.QD-3, Adamič- modern society. Exhibitions usually concentrate on artistic Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, tic@ production that explores social, political, aesthetic and ethi- visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si. Open Octo- cal concerns.QD/E-2, Komenskega 18, tel. +386 (0)590 54 ber-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. 360/+386 (0)590 17 010, [email protected], www. aksioma.org. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. 18 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Culture and Events

Kino Siska full page ad

Ustanoviteljica

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 19 Culture and Events You have a very busy schedule, but what do you Interview enjoy doing in your free time? Do you have any We recently had the pleasure of chatting with Damjan favourite restaurants or cafes in Ljubljana? How Damjanovič, long time director of the Philharmonic about sights? here in Ljubljana. For the full interview, head to www. In my free time I socialise with friends, ride a motor- inyourpocket.com/Slovenia. cycle or visit friends who have horses. I have my favourite restaurant and my little local. I am proud to say First of all, congratulations on 10 years as director that I have an office in one of what I consider the big- of the Slovenian Philharmonic. When you took on gest attractions, the Slovenian Philharmonic Orches- the position did you believe you’d still be in the tra, whose building was listed as a cultural monument role a decade later? some years ago. Thanks for the congratulations. I think everyone who takes on a leadership role, is aware that it’s always a possibility that circumstances can change. At the same time, it’s entirely normal and accepted that good results are impossible to obtain overnight and it takes time to achieve them. I’m happy and proud that I have led the institution for over 10 years already and that during this time we have achieved quite a few significant results.

What have been the biggest changes in those 10 years? What do you personally consider the biggest successes? Any disappointments? Certainly one of the most significant changes compared to the past has been the role of the orchestra’s chief conductor. We had some bigger tours to Swit- zerland, Japan, German and most recently with Anna Netrebko around Europe. A few things, above all that because of a lack of understanding about the social and economic conditions we lost quite a bit of our advantage over other competitors.

In 2012 you participated as a judge on Slovenia’s only season (to date) of the international hit reality show X-Factor. How did this position come about? How was the entire experience? Happenstance led to my participation on this show as a jury member. The experience was unique. I can safely say that it was very influential on my personal- ity as well as for my personal growth. Everything you experience cannot be described in a few sentences, I could write a book. Also in Slovenia the viewership was extremely high, which also had a very big impact on my public visibility.

You’ve stated a desire to run for the position of mayor in Ljubljana. Did anything in particular bring you to that decision? Has politics always been an aim? Friends who have followed me in my work for years talk- ed me into the candidacy. The fact is if we want to do something in life, then it is necessary to engage and put yourself out there, particularly when it comes to actions that are in ways morally and socially beneficial. I’ve always been an opponent of school yard debates that, with the exception of those harbouring bad will, benefit no-one. Politics was never my goal, but it was there at every step.

20 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Slovenian Philharmonic Season 2014/15 Blue Orange Vocal T 00 386 1 24 10 800 F 00 386 1 24 10 900 info@ﬁlharmonija.si www.ﬁlharmonija.si

Conductors Bernard Labadie, Jacek Kaspszyk, (Slovenian Frédéric Chaslin, Tan Dun, Philharmonic Ignjat Solženicin, Ari Rasilainen, Orchestra) Hans Graf, Dmitrij Sitkovecki,

Keri-Lynn Wilson, Martina Batič

C Conductors Vladimir Kranjčević, Tõnu Kaljuste,

M (Slovenian Fernando P. Mejias, Marko Vatovec, Chamber Martina Batič Y Choir)

MY Soloists Aleksander Markovič, Martina Filjak (piano), Alban Gerhardt CY (cello), Boris Brovcin (violin),

CMY Miha Rogina (saxophone), Andrej Žust (horn), Aleš Kacjan (ﬂute), K Bernarda Fink, Monika Bohinec (mezzosoprano), Lydia Teuscher, Maida Hundeling (soprano), VOCES8 (vocal group)…

Other 16th Slowind Festival 2014 events Confronting Silence - Music from Japan Artistic Director Robert Aitken 1st Philharmonic Festival of Baroque Music, Artistic Director Matej Šarc Culture and Events Alkatraz Galerija QF-2, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 434 0345, fax +386 (0)1 432 3378, [email protected], www. galerijalkatraz.org. Open Mon-Tues 11:00-15:00 and 16:00-20:00, and Fri 15:00-23:00. KDO SO BeArtAngel NAŠI This little gallery on Gornji trg in Ljubljana’s old town is the HEROJI? peaceful sanctuary of local Slovene artist Božidar A. Kolerič, who paints under the name BeArtAngel. Kolerič has spent his life exploring creativity and life energy, and BeArtAngel represents his latest artistic endeavour. The paintings, which are known around the world, are said to represent unseen energies and can support people in achieving inner peace. If it all sounds a little confusing then worry not, Kolerič is on hand at the gallery and happy to explain the meaning behind BeArtAngel and each painting’s energies. The famed ‘Mosa- ics of Intention’, the work of Sebastian Žvanut aided by thruly unique lighting created by Jonathan Kuk, are also available to view and purchase.QD-4, Gornji Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)41 764 352, [email protected], www.beartangel.si. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Galerija Equrna Modern art in an elegant white, arched space.QC-4, Kosmač Miha Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1252 71 23, equrna@volja. net, www.equrna.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - . Oblikovanje: Lukežič . Primož

13:00. No admission. Foto:

Galerija Kresija the Town Hall. It also has three additional spaces.QD-3/4, QD-3, Stritarjeva 6, tel. +386 (0)13 06 11 71. Open 10:00 Mestni Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 241 17 70, mestna.galerija- - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. [email protected], www.mestna-galerija.si. Open 11:00 - Galerija TR3 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. QTrg Republike 3, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 00, galerija.tr3@gmail. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Škuc Gallery One of the cities most popular and important galleries, Škuc Ganes Pratt Mala Galerija holds numerous culture events and exhibitions through- Originally founded in 2006 as an independent arts space, for out the year featuring some oft he most important people the 2011/12 season has merged its programme and prem- in contemporary art from throughout the region and the ises with the Mala Galerija, a part of Ljubljana’s Museum continent.QD-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax +386 (0)1421 31 of Modern Art.QC-3, Slovenska 35, tel. +386 (0)1 241 68 40, [email protected], www.galerija.skuc- 50/+386 (0)51 242 811, [email protected], www. drustvo.si. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. ganes-pratt.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Jakopič Galerija Kino Šiška A branch of the City Museum of Ljubljana, the Jakopič Gal- After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most lery hosts exhibitions of contemporary art and design by iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban Slovenian and international artists. The programme of ex- cultural centre featuring several state-of-the-art pre- hibitions focuses on the role of contemporary art in its lo- formance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to cal environment.QC-4, Slovenska 9, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and ex- 500, [email protected], www.mestnimuzej.si. Open perimental events, it already attracts big-name regional 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest Little Black Gallery (Mala črna galerija) multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit QD-4, Mestni trg 9, tel. +(386) 51 370 769, incognito.n@ over 932 people. Check out their English language web- gmail.com, www.incognitodesign.si. Open 10:00 - site for more info and a full schedule of events.QK-3, Trg 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 100, info@ Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. PHLEB The largest fine arts exhibition space in Ljubljana, next to 22 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Culture and Events Tobačna 001 City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Lju- QA-4, Tobačna 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, [email protected], bljansko) www.mgml.si. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. The MGL has two stages that are the home of modern, Vžigalica Galerija progressive drama since the Yugoslav era.QC-3, Čopova QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 7, [email protected], www. 14, tel. +386 (0)1251 08 52, [email protected], www.mgl.si. mgml.si. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Gledališče Glej Sports Glej Theatre is Slovenia’s oldest independent theatre. 27.08 Wednesday - 30.08 Saturday Founded back in 1970, this experimental venue and Ljubljana Cup 2014 (Junior Grand Prix of production house has been led through the decades by Figure Skating) young theatre creators, many of whom are Slovenia’s most Whilst we certainly won’t claim to be experts, we can cer- well known theatre practitioners today. tainly appreciate that there is something unique about fig- Glej produces and hosts research theatre projects of up- ure skating as a sport. The combination of gravity-defying and-coming directors, who can apply to through an open acrobatics and rhythm, accentuated by what can only be call. The theatre also offers a stepping-stone to young described as pure theatre, makes for a unique experience for directors with professional working conditions, enabling both performer and public. At the end of August the Junior quick and effective personal artistic growth and providing Grand Prix of Figure Skating comes to Ljubljana, with skat- an entry point to a successful theatre career. Glej’s team vi- ers from all over the world coming to compete. Hala Tivoli sion is to keep the institution a daring urban theatre, dedi- plays host, and daily entry is €5. Maybe you’ll get to see the cated to theatrical research and promoting the new and next Michelle Kwan.QHala Tivoli, tel. +386 (0)1 439 15 40, marginal, while offering creators a space of uncensored [email protected], www.ljubljanacup2014.si/. freedom of creation.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 251 66 79, [email protected], www.glej.si.

Theatres Kavarna Union Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then The stage of the Kavarna Union coffee house, inside the Grand there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are the Hotel Union.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1308 17 63, box office opening hours. www.gh-union.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

The unique creations of BeArtAngel gallery, channelling previously unknown energies facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 23 Culture and Events during the hour prior to each performance. Slovenian Youth Theatre (Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče) The Mladinsko Theatre (or the SMG) is considered a labora- tory for actors, directors, choreographers and musicians to research and develop, risk and create. It was established in the 1950s as the first professional theatre for children and youth in Slovenia. In the 1980s, the Mladinsko Theatre embarked upon unique, interdisciplinary stage research. Its productions (Missa in a minor, Class Enemy, Romeo and Juliet, The Persians, Ana, etc.) began to be widely acclaimed for their political engagement as well as for their innovative approach to mise-en-scene. For the last two decades, Mladinsko Theatre has continued to work with stage directors whose dialogue with dramatic texts and personal poetics has been characterised by inventiveness and avant-garde approaches (e.g. Vito Taufer, Matjaž Pograjc, Dragan Živadinov, Eduard Miler, Diego de Brea, Jernej Lorenci, Ivica Buljan). In 2007, the SMG celebrated its 50th anniversary, pub- lishing an illustrated monograph about its history. The Mladinsko Theatre regularly tours international festivals worldwide (Nancy, Hamburg, Belgrade, London, Mos- cow, Essen, Cardiff, Lisbon, Madrid, Bogotà, New York) and also hosts selected performances from other countries. Internationally, the Mladinsko Theatre has been establishing itself intensely from 1975. It has toured 34 Mini Theatre different countries worldwide, visited approximately 140 Founded in 1999 with the aim of promoting theatre, pup- cities and performed more than 700 productions at in- petry and creativity in general among young people, the Mini ternational festivals. Theatre now gives over 500 performances per year in both Another way for the Mladinsko Theatre to make interna- Slovenia and abroad, hosts various workshops for children, tional connections is through theatre co-productions. The participates in a number of prestigious international festivals Mladinsko Theatre is located in the building of the Baraga and also organises the annual Mini Summer International Seminary (Vilharjeva 11) in Ljubljana, where its creations are Puppet Festival in Ljubljana. Performances are frequently developed in three halls, especially notable among which is held at Ljubljana Castle as well as its own premises in the old the arched cellar hall, interesting architecture-wise and also town.QC-4, Križevniška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 60/+386 marked by rich theatre tradition.QE-1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (0)41 314 414, [email protected], www.mini-teater.si. +386 (0)1 425 33 12, [email protected], en.mladinsko. com. Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5 is National Drama Theatre (Narodno open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:00-13:00. Gledališče Drama) With its roots reaching back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s na- Stara Mestna Elektrarna - Elektro tional theatre stages plays from all eras.QC-4, Erjavčeva 1, Ljubjana tel. +386 (0)1252 15 11, [email protected], www.drama. Ljubljana’s old power plant is one of the city’s finest si. Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 pieces of industrial architecture. Constructed more to showtime, Sun closed. than a century ago, this historical and architectural landmark was given a new lease on life in the 80s and Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) 90s, when local artists turned it into a premier cultural Taking as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre space. The venue continues to be a hub of the local cre- in the 15th century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, ative and intellectual scene hosting radical and provoc- provides over 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed ative performances, discussions and workshops, whilst of creative music, design and other forms. It’s responsible there are several festivals held at the venue throughout for keeping scores of children entertained and amused the year - Ex Ponto and Mladi Levi are two well worth every week. Keep an eye out for the musical puppets that checking out. If you’re catching a show, or are just a fan come out of the small tower on the roof of the building industrial architecture, make sure to also visit the small on the hour.QD/E-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1300 09 museum detailing the building’s technical heritage. 70, www.lgl.si. The box office is open Monday to Friday QE-2, Slomskova 18, tel. +386 (0)51 269 906, info@ from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and bunker.si, www.bunker.si. 24 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

Thought you had to give up taste in favour of health? Bazilika Bistro proves all those myths wrong Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with vaulted ceilings or outside in prime position besides the new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. Be Ljubljanica river.QD-3, Ribji Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)31 30 sure to sample some local cuisine when in town, and do 70 30, www.aroma-ljubljana.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. get yourself outside at least one legendary kremšnita PiJABW cream cake, which can be found in abundance throughout the city (although Bled is considered to the spiritual Druga Violina home of this sticky, gooey delight). Good locally grown produce, a simple short menu of Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who Slovene classics, top location in the city’s old town, but plan to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover there’s a twist in the tale with the ‘other violin’ (as the Eng- that almost every street has at least one burek and pizza lish translation of the name goes). It’s actually a project for place on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a treat not people with special needs, who produce much of the food to be missed. on farmland near Ljubljana and also work as waiting staff in the restaurant itself. Come and see what it’s all about, while enjoying one of the fresh local dishes either in the Slovenian rustic dining room or on the delightful cobbled pave- In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian food - with ment outside.QD-4, Stari trg 21, tel. +386 (0)82 05 25 sheep and cows on its mountain pastures giving meat 06, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 24:00. and milk products, the Mediterranean providing fresh PJAUBW seafood, and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing Gostilna Gorjanc that is unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, fami- With over two centuries of tradition (it was officially ly-owned Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest opened for business in 1813), Gorjanc is one of the lon- homemade food that would make your granny grin. gest running traditional Slovenian restaurants around Lju- bljana, but at the same time it’s also one of the newest, Aroma as it underwent extensive restoration and modernisation Located in the city’s oldest house, dating from 1528, this at the same time the G Design Hotel was built next door. newly opened restaurant has already become a popu- Along with the standard hearty Slovenian fare, such as lar choice for visitors to Ljubljana. Aroma has a diverse blood sausages and sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, menu offering traditional Slovene dishes as well as al- the menu makes room for various refined fish, pastas, most anything else you might fancy - from steaks and salads and other gourmet dishes. On weekdays there are pizzas to salads and desserts - as well as a good selec- lunch specials on offer that can be seen in advance on tion of quality Slovene wines. Breakfast specials look their website.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 good too. Almost as hard as choosing what to order 11, [email protected], www.gdesignhotel.si. Open is deciding whether to sit inside under the beautiful 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTALW facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 25 Restaurants Gostilnica Rimska XXI With its low arched ceilings, moody red walls and touch of rustic furnishings this homey low-key restaurant has already become one of our favourite places to come when we’re in the mood for traditional Slovene cuisine it a great setting. Fresh homemade dishes of all sorts are are the speciality here, including deer, fish and wood-baked meats, and the menu changes daily depending on the season and whims of the head chef. Even the beer, juice and brandy is homemade, and Krojaška 8, 1000 Ljubljana t : 00386 / 1 25 11 749 e: [email protected] www.staramacka.si there’s also an excellent selection of Slovene wines.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 256 56 54, gostilnica.xxi@gmail. *** Odprto: pon-ned 09-03 *** com, www.r-g.si/xxi. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20). PTJA6IB

Güjžina Voted by our readers as the best Slovenian restaurant in Ljubljana for 2013, Güjžina offers traditional cuisine from the region of Prekmurje, which is situated in the far northeastern corner of the country and heavily influenced by neighbouring Hungary, Austria and Croatia. One of the most typical dishes is the award-winning bograč, a thick meaty stew that comes served in a large copper kettle, while the multi-layered cake known as gibanica is easily the best in the city and an abso- lute must for dessert. Check the chalkboard or ask your waiter for the daily specials.QD-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)8 380 64 46, [email protected], www.prekmurska- gostilna.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJAB

Kuhinja Krušič Aside from the Euro, nothing has stirred up more disagreement Gostilna Pod Vrbo amongst Europeans in recent years than horse meat - Slove- This traditional Slovenian gostilna is located in one of nia being one of the countries where people largely have no Ljubljana’s oldest neighbourhoods, just metres from problem with horses finding their way onto kitchen tables. the former home of famed architect Jože Plečnik. On Like-minded visitors in Ljubljana will thus surely want to add sunny days the name Pod Vrbo (under the willows) the family-run Krušič to their itinerary. Operating a butchery for takes on a literal meaning with tables out in the gar- over a century, it’s one of the country’s top suppliers of horse den, while in winter you can cosy up beside the fire. meat, which also dominates the menu in various different The kitchen turns out excellent Slovenian and Medi- forms at the restaurant on the same premises. Various appe- terranean dishes - some served in traditional copper tisers, stews, cured meats and of course steaks from horse are pots and earthenware bowls - whilst the daily menus on offer here, all of which can be enjoyed in the charming little and seasonal specials, like homemade chestnut gnoc- dining room or taken away.QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 chi with porcini mushrooms, are a great value.QZi- (0)1 544 61 41, [email protected], www.mesarstvo- herlova 36, tel. +386 (0)1 280 88 92/+386 (0)41 712 krusic.si. Open 08:00-16:00 Mon-Wed, 08:00-22:00 Thur-Fri. 806, www.podvrbo.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 Closed Sat-Sun and holidays. LS - 22:00, Sun open by prior arrangement.

Gostilna pri Trubarjevi Mami In order to produce good food fit to represent a nation, passion is of optimum importance. Taking their influence from Primoz Trubar (the writer of the first Slovene book) and in particular his love of food, Gostilna pri Trubarjevi Mami (literally, Trubar’s Mother’s Inn) is dripping in the stuff. 16th century food draped in a modern styling is on offer, all the while staying true to what made the original so special. A selection of Tuscan-inspired pizza and pasta dishes are also available. Part of the Kaval group of eateries, this is tradition as its finestQTrubarjeva 52, tel. +386 (0)1 232 09 90, [email protected], www. kaval-group.si. 26 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Jelen Located in Šiška some 5km from the city centre, this guest house and restaurant has been serving locals and tourists alike since 1878. There’s a full menu of traditional Slovene dishes as well as an assortment of tasty Balkan- style grilled meats and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. Upstairs there are five fully equipped modern rooms, which are convenient if you’ve got an early morning flight to catch or have just eaten (or drunk) too much to make it very far from the table.QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 5161 545, [email protected], www.pension- CHINESE RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA jelen.eu. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. €3.80- Masarykova 21, 1000 Ljubljana 16. PiTAUBSW 00 386 (0) 30 318 377 Pri Škofu Hidden down a small side street in Krakovo, Pri Škofu is a lends his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the long-time favourite of cash-strapped university students better known places to sample traditional Slovenian who still like to enjoy a proper meal from time to time, cuisine in Ljubljana. Dining under its vaulted brick ceil- and you’re virtually guaranteed to see at least a couple ings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a bespectacled hipsters seated at a table nearby. The €8 coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re wait- lunch specials come in obscenely large portions and ing for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to are one of the best values in town. Although there’s no the castle.QD/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)12 34 menu it’s also possible to order à la carte, and an Eng- 52 60, [email protected], www.vodnikov- lish-speaking waitress will gladly rattle off what’s avail- hram.si. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. ableQC-5, Rečna 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 45 08, priskofu@ (€4.50-24). PTAULGSW gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€6.5-23). TJA6UBW Asian Špajza Beli Labod An exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wood- Located a short walk east of the train station, don’t be en floors, a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, put off by the fact that the sign outside advertisers both an extensive menu of Slovenian and international dishes, a Chinese restaurant and pizzeria, as the latter is an inno- and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Locat- cent remnant of the former occupant. Quite fittingly for ed on one of the old town’s quaintest most photogenic a place called Beli Labod (Slovene for White Swan), the streets, it’s popular with many people including busi- inner beauty here shines through, with excellent food ness professionals, tourists and couples. During the sum- and genuinely friendly service. There’s also a huge sunny mer months they have one of the most romantic court- terrace out front and free parking in the back. Among the yards in Ljubljana.QD-5, Gornji Trg 28, tel. +386 (0)1 many house specialties the so-called ‘hot plates’ stand 425 30 94, [email protected], www.spajza-restaurant. out, since it’s a well-known fact that food just tastes bet- si. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7.50-15). ter when it’s served on a sizzling iron dish. A second lo- JA6GBS cation is at Bizantova 22 in Medvode.QF-1, Masarykova 21, tel. +386 (0)30 318 377/+386 (0)64 198 748, info@ Vodnikov Hram beli-labod.com, www.beli-labod.com. Open 10:00 - Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as 22:00. PTJALB one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also Chuty’s This small Thai takeaway located on a small side street in the city centre may very well cook up some of the best Asian food in the Ljubljana. They have all the Thai staples covered from starters like chicken satay and spring rolls to our favourite noodle dishes Pad Thai and Pad see ew. If you’re looking for something with a bit of a kick, the spicy green or red curry will do the job. While you wait you can watch the chef at work through a large picture window looking into the kitchen, and there’s also plenty of bar-style seating if you’d prefer to eat in.QGregorčičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)70 40 13 51, info@ chutys.com, chutys.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat Traditional Slovene cuisine at Vodnikov Hram 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 27 Restaurants little touches beyond the actual food include a subscrip- tion to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the head Japanese sushi chef Hiroki Ishikawa on display as he works in the restaurant. The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its territory as the first and finest of its kind.QC/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. +386 (0)40 70 20 70, www.sushimama.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Maru Sun. (€11-24). PJARGBXS Tucked away in the northwest corner of the city amongst the green spaces and residential streets of the Šiška neigh- Tokyo Piknik bourhood, this excellent Japanese restaurant makes the Despite what the name may suggest, Tokyo Piknik offers most of its surroundings with two spacious yet intimate a whole range of Asian cuisine as well as more recogni- terraces overlooking the park opposite, while the minimal- sable Western dishes. With plenty of outdoor seating by ist interior has an equally tranquil ambience. With a kitch- the river, it represents another excellent option for a casual en run under the watchful eye of Japanese chef Yoshihiko, afternoon lunch or an atmospheric evening meal, another in addition to a selection of expertly prepared classic sushi string to Ljubljana’s growing bow of Asian food. It also dishes, the menu features mouthwatering main courses happens to be the only real ramen bar in Slovenia, and all such as baked Barbarie duck and grilled white fish - all of the noodles you will gorge on are completely hand-made. which goes great with the house wine from Ščurek, one of Regardless of the time of day, the desserts are wonder- Slovenia’s top producers.QJ-2, Vodnikova 155, tel. +386 ful, both the taste and the aesthetics.QD-4, Cankarjevo (0)30 200 222, [email protected], www. Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)30 60 88 08, romeo.plus@siol. maru.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PALB net, www.tokyopiknik.com. Open 09:00 - 00:00.

Moysushi The prospect of a reasonably priced sushi bar in the heart Balkan of the old town had us well and truly excited when we first Gostilna Čad heard about it. Call us crazy, but there’s just something fun When you ask locals to name there favourite Balkan restau- about snatching colour-coded plates of raw fish and other rant in Ljubljana, Čad is one of the most frequently heard morsels from a conveyor belt in a futuristic faux-Japanese answers. Situated by Rožnik Hill around corner from Tivoli setting! It’s also nice to know that their head chef is actually Park, it’s also the longest-running restaurant of its kind in from Japan. While we prefer to linger over several bottles of town, and guests can dine in the shady garden surrounded sake and perhaps order a main dish or two off the á la carte by nature or in the rustic homey interior. Specialising in spit menu, the set-up makes for a quick lunchtime option and and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and razn- prepared takeaway boxes are also available - chopsticks op- tional.QD-4, Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)59 93 55 40, www. moysushi.com. Open Mon-Wed 10:30-22:00, Thur-Sat 10:30-23:00, Sun 10:30-17:00. (Plates €1.90-3.70, mains €5-10). PJABS

Shambala Not only does Shambala’s kitchen turn out some of the best (and spiciest) Asian cuisine in Slovenia, but the tranquil, almost meditative, ambience of the place allows you to enjoy your meal in a state of perfect relaxation - with some of the best service in town thrown in as an added benefit. During the warmer months, diners can also take advantage of the pleasant little garden that is tucked away in one of the buildings inner courtyards. Situated down a narrow alleyway off Breg, this hidden gem is definitely worth finding.QC-4, Križevniška 12, tel. +386 (0)1 426 30 14/+386 (0)31 843 833, [email protected], www.shambala.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK

Sushimama The first - and for a long time only - Japanese restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s interesting Shambala’s gorgeous hidden garden is a favourite of ours 28 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

One of a kind! 120 years of tradition 120 years or premium quality ...... Opening time- Every day 11:00-23:00 phone +386 (0)1 251 34 46 www.gostilna-cad.si jici skewers all come highly recommended.QJ-3, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel. +386 (0)1 251 34 46, info@gostilna-cad. Fish si, www.gostilna-cad.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€5-15). Taverna Tatjana PTJAUILEGBXSW Dining at this impossibly quaint and homey house tucked away on Gornji Trg is akin going over to your aunt’s for dinner Gostilna Vrbinc - if only your aunt were able to prepare exquisite Dalmatian Part of the cosy Alohotel resort, the Vrbinc restaurant is dishes and lived in a house decorated to resemble the luxuri- renowned for its grilled meat dishes and excellent Balkan ous living quarters on an old wooden sailing ship. The tables cuisine. Summer is the time for the best of Balkan, and are arranged haphazardly to take advantage of the various Vrbinc has a purpose built area at the front of the build- little nooks that provide for a more intimate meal, and there’s ing for roasting pork and lamb over an open fire, to be en- just the right amount of wear and tear that a place like this joyed in their laid back dining room or lively conservatory. needs to feel authentic.QD-5, Gornji Trg 38, tel. +386 (0)1 Guests of the hotel receive their complimentary freshly 421 00 87/+386 (0)41 707 900, [email protected], cooked breakfast here in the mornings.QL-6, Peruzzijeva www.taverna-tatjana.si. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@ (€7-24). PTJA6UGBSW alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si. Valentin Saraj Taking its name from the famed Slovene priest, poet and jour- Ljubljana is not lacking in Balkan restaurants, but the newly nalist, Valentin Vodnik, the restaurant is situated opposite his opened Saraj is one of very few that take a bit more refined statue just north of the central market, and shares its premises approach to the cuisine, with a noticeably upscale atmo- with a fish mongers from which fastidious diners can select sphere. Head chef Nihad Mameledžija, whose cookbook their own fish. The main dining area has been carefully re- is proudly displayed on the front counter, watches over a stored, with attention given to seemingly every detail - from menu of traditional Bosnian favourites with a wide selec- the copper covered wiring to the heavy wooden furniture to tion of both hot and cold starters, main courses and des- the low arched brick ceiling. Aside from the expectedly wide serts. In addition to the standard čevapčiči and pljeskavica variety of fish, our favourite dish is the fresh succulent cala- (made from 100 per cent beef), there are lots of lamb dishes, mari (easily amongst the best in town), while unbelievably soups and more. Multi-course daily specials start from only cheap lunch specials (€3-7) can be ordered to take away all €8.QF-2, Bohoričeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 234 04 22. Open day.QD-3, Vodnikov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 434 94 45, info@ 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PJALBS rival-junior.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 29 Restaurants Taj Mahal Indian Ljubljana’s culinary scene continues to gain a bit more di- Maharaja versity, with Taj Mahal being the city’s third Indian restau- A wide variety of excellent, authentic Indian cuisine, with rant to date. Run by a passionate expat from Punjab, the some genuinely friendly service included at no extra charge. menu offers all the standard dishes from the subcontinent, Choosing between the various dishes can be a challenge on from tandoori to biryani and everything in between, as your first visit, especially if you opt for starters and side dishes, well as a selection of crispy crepe-like dosa from south In- but for those not familiar with Indian cuisine, the menu is full dia. Those on a budget should stop by for lunch on week- of extremely helpful (and realistic) photos of the individual days, when the all-you-can-eat buffet is only €8.50 (or dishes. Discounted lunch specials are available on weekdays, €6.50 for vegetarians).QE-3, Poljanska 14, tel. +386 (0)59 and include an all-you-eat buffet for €8.90 per person. Free 034 390, [email protected], www.tajmahal- parking is available for guests, and can even accommodate ljubljana.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. €€. PJABS buses with prior notice.QJ-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. +386 (0)30 605 560, [email protected], www.maharaja.si. Open 11:00- 22:00, Thur-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat & holidays 12:00-23:00, International Sun 12:00-22:00. Mains €6.90 - 16.90. PAVBS Argentino The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argen- Namasté tino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside walk in the and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two lev- old town, Namasté is the longest running Indian restaurant in all els with further seating outside, the interior designer had of Slovenia, and offers one of Ljubljana’s most romantic dining a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, experiences of any flavour - with soft yellow hued lighting, hand- enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an painted walls and a relaxed cosy atmosphere. The house special- even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying array ties are dishes from the Rajastan and Punjab regions, which are of mouth-watering Latin American dishes including some prepared individually with spices directly imported from the sub- of the best steaks in Ljubljana. There’s also an excellent wine continent and can be ordered mild to extra hot. Sometimes we cellar with some 130 different Argentinean wines.QM-3, like to stop by just to savour a cup of spicy masala chai.QC/D-4, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. +386 (0)1 523 36 30, info@ Breg 8, tel. +386 (0)14 25 01 59, fax +386 (0)1 236 20 27, info@ argentino.si, www.argentino.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri- restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracija-namaste.si. Open Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun and holidays 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.20- 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJBXS 45). PTAR6UILGBXSW

30 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants As Aperitivo Café Romeo The more casual dining wing of the legendary Gostilna As Red leather seating with some very strange lighting next door, Aperitivo is one of the top choices for business indeed and the pinkest walls you ever did see, makes lunches, light snacks and afterwork drinks in the city centre. Romeo easy to spot along the narrow cobbled streets Inspired by the giant tree that still grows through the middle of the old town. A great place for good value Mexi- of it, the building was completely rebuilt in 2011, now con- can and fusion food for all the family during lunchtime sisting of a large airy space on the ground floor with a ‘float- or, later on, for a buzzy little cocktail adventure with ing’ terrace above, all of which is furnished with creations by the great and the good of the city. They also hap- some of the top names in design. For price-conscious din- pen to make some of the best crepes in town.QD-4, ers there are gourmet daily set menus starting from only €8, Stari Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 426 90 11, romeo.plus@ while the excellent full à la carte menu focuses on Mediter- siol.net, www.caferomeo.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. ranean cuisine and steaks.QC-3, Čopova 5a, Knafljev Pre- PJA6UGBXSW hod, tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, [email protected], www. gostilnaas.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. JAEBW Čupiterija Ljubljana funkiest bar (and we mean that in a good Austria Trend way) is also a great old town destination for lunch or The hotel is undeniably focused on the business traveller and dinner, especially if you appreciate a bit of personal- this, their four-part restaurant and lounge follows in the same ity with your meal. The menu is straight to the point, spirit. The stylish lounge is found just as you enter with full cof- offering a small but varied choice of Slovene, Spanish, fee and spirits offerings. Inside the restaurant is divided into pasta and grilled meat dishes, with the latter being three parts which range from wide open bistro style to more the most recommendable of the lot for our tastes - formal intimate settings. The food is a mix of continental fare the young pork in cream sauce is simply delectable! with some Slovenian flourishes, and the meals are inexpensive If you’re feeling especially adventurous you can try enough that your company’s expense account won’t feel a the frog legs with polenta, an old Ljubljana spe- thing.QL-1, Dunajska 154, tel. +386 (0)1 588 25 00, ljubljana@ cialty.QD-4, Mestni Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)59 712 369, austria-trend.at, www.austria-trend.at. Open 10:00 - 23:00. [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 03:00. (€8-20). PO TAULEGDSW PJAW

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 31 Restaurants

Le Petit Restaurant Discovered by following the gorgeous spiral staircase inside the Parisian-style café of the same name, Le Petit’s restaurant eschews the cosmopolitan French capital in favour of the luxury and sophistication of the Cote d’Azur with predictably glamorous results. A diverse range of cuisine is on the menu, with extra attention paid to the aesthetics. It has been said that we eat with our eyes, and boy is this true in the case of Le Petit.QC-4, Trg Franco- ske Revolucije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75, info@lepetit. si, www.lepetit.si. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Holidays closed. (€8-21). PJAGW

Maxim In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orien- tated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 28 53 35, [email protected], www.maxi.si. Open 12:00-23:00 Mon-Fri, and Sat by prior agreement. Closed Sun. (€19 and more). PJALGBS

Marley & Me Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, this intimate bistro-type restaurant is comes highly recommended. Standouts from the small yet varied menu include the large and tasty salads, deli- 32 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants cious pastas and some truly memorable meat and fish dishes. depending on what is in season or just especially fresh Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and wait- that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the ing for a table during the day is a common occurrence.QD-4, day’s set menus you can also order à la carte.QC-2, Stari Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)8 380 66 10/+386 (0)40 564 188, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, [email protected], [email protected], www.marleyandme.si. Open 11:00 - plato.si. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed 23:00. (€3-22). €€. PJA6UGBXSW Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW

Meta in Bazilika Plaza Hotel Restaurant Situated next to several faculty buildings in the city centre, The hotel restaurant at the magnificent towering Plaza Hotel Meta in Bazilika is exceedingly popular with the university in BTC is an expectedly resplendent affair, befitting of its four- crowd, and could perhaps best be described as upscale stu- star home and largely business clientele. The menu is short and dent dining at it’s finest. Large portions, low prices and a lively focussed, ensuring freshness while also offering enough variety atmosphere keep the place buzzing throughout the day, es- to satisfy most tastes. Dishes include Slovene specialities (such pecially at lunchtime and in the evenings, when pints of Hirter as Idrija’s famed žlikrofi and various homemade cured meats), beer flow liberally and the large terrace is sure to be packed. as well as international standards.QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 In addition to all this, the food itself is also generally excellent, (0)1 243 00 00, [email protected], www.plazahotel.si. Open with a large selection of pizzas, pastas, salads and what may for dinner 19:00-22:00. PALW very well be the best panna cotta in the city.QB-4, Rimska 25a, tel. +386 (0)1 425 40 45/+386 (0)31 250 247, info@ Promenada metainbazilika.si, metainbazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Just steps from Prešeren Square, Promenada restaurant Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJABW (and the café of the same name next-door) occupies a prime riverside location with great drinking and eat- Plato ing options. The menu features a fine selection of Slo- Located right in the centre of town next to one of Lju- venian wines complemented by spiced Balkan grills, bljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting hearty Slovenian fare and delicate seafood dishes, white office tower that takes some interesting architec- while the restaurant’s wood-fired oven doesn’t just tural liberties - this restaurant is something of an oasis provide a cosy atmosphere, from it emerge some very above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only tasty pizzas.QPetkovškovo Nabrežje 9, tel. +386 (0)8 menu is international with a focus on light and healthy 383 10 82, [email protected], www. Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily restavracija-promenada.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Promenada restaurant & pizzerija www.restavracija-promenada.si

Authentic grilled dishes, Pizzas from wood-ﬁred oven, Pasta & Salads, A large selection of ﬁne Slovenian wines

reservations: +386 8 383 10 82 / +386 40 716 476 Petkovškovo nabrežje 9, Ljubljana / open 12:00 - 24:00

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 33 Restaurants Smrekarjev Hram Another of Ljubljana’s upscale eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long wine list. Make sure you leave room for a main and a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce, fin- ishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla ice-cream. The elegant interior of Smrekarjev Hram is offset by the funky multi-colored straw sculptures which add a touch of fun to somewhere with more than a touch of class.QD-3, Nazorjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1907, smrekarjev.hram@union-hotels. eu, www.smrekarjevhram.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PT JA6ULEGBSW

new Spirit Bar and Restaurant On a quiet and peaceful street alongside the Ljubljan- ica, Spirit Bar and Kitchen is owned by the same folk who run Špajza but is an altogether different prospect. Finding the perfect middle ground of elegant comfort and wildly affordable food, Spirit truly offers something for everyone. Daily lunch menus start from €5.90, and the sliders in particular are excellent. An excellent selection of wines only add to the experience.QHrenova 19, tel. +386 (0)1 425 42 51, info@ spajza-lj.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

Stara Mačka Ljubljana’s original steakhouse has occupied some prime real estate along the Ljubljanica river just steps Za Pumpo from Prešeren Square for longer than we can remem- The creatively named Za Pumpo, which means ‘behind the ber. The mouthwatering steaks come in various dif- gas station’, is located (surprisingly) behind a petrol station ferent sizes and cuts, and are complimented with in the vicinity of several university faculties, and consis- equally well-prepared side dishes. They also offer tently tasty food, generous portions and low prices make lighter fare such as seafood dishes and some incred- it a popular choice with students and other locals alike. The ible salads, while the outside terrace is a popular spot huge menu has something for everyone including Balkan to linger over cocktails during the warmer months of and Italian classics as well as hearty Slovene dishes, all com- the year. In the autumn and winter the interior din- plimented by a fine selection of quality Slovenia wines. ing space offers a cosy retreat from the elements. There are also some good looking breakfast offerings.QJ-4, QD-3/4, Krojaška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 49, info@ Tržaška 46, tel. +386 (0)41 777 772, [email protected]. staramacka.si, www.staramacka.si. Open 09:00 - Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 03:00. €€€. PJA6UEGBW

Štern Latin American The sprawling country-style restaurant located within Casa Mulata the premises of the Ljubljana Resort in the north of Casa Mulata is like nothing you’ve seen before. The dream- the city frequently hosts celebrations, reunions and turned-reality of three of the most infectiously passionate other such large jovial gatherings. Another option for people we’ve met, the explosion of colour and joy as you groups in search of fresh air is arranging a picnic in enter immediately opens up each sense. Classic Brazilian advance, which includes food, drinks and use of the (and Dominican) dishes are given new spins, with the shared resorts facilities. The menu is focussed primarily on platter options particularly good value. An immense buffet grilled and fried meat dishes with healthy heaps of (it must be seen to be believed) is on offer during the eve- side orders, but the fish is also excellent - it is located ning, and a lunch menu provides the perfect choices for a next to the Sava River after all. Try to visit on Satur- light afternoon eat at a good price. The cocktails are perfect, day nights, when there are themed culinary nights and we don’t throw that word around lightly. With Latin mu- with live music and the doors stay open late.QL-1, sic and dancing in tow, Casa Mulata is happiness within four Dunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)1 589 01 28/+386 (0)51 walls.QNazorjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)59 03 51 52, casamulata. 348 994, [email protected], www.gostilna-stern.si. Open [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 00:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, 08:00 - 22:00. TAL Sat 16:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun. TJEBK 34 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

Rodizio do Brasil T Slovenia’s first Brazilian restaurant has quickly became one of Ljubljana’s top dining destinations since it opened in Decem- AN EA ber. Modelled after Brazil’s traditional rodízio style steakhouse OU C restaurants, patrons pay a fixed price for unlimited quantities Y of high quality grilled meat that is brought to the table on large ALL skewers hot from the grill and accompanied by a huge selection of hot and cold dishes from the buffet (many of which are even vegetarian). For the full on Brazilian experience come on a night when there’s a dance performance and order a few extra rounds of Caipirinhas - just make sure to reserve a table in advance.QTrg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 1, tel. +386 (0)40 316 341/+386 (0)31 250 247, [email protected], www.brasil.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. PJAEB

Mediterranean AUTHENTIC BRAZILIAN Allegria CHURRACARIA RESTAURANT Tucked away in a courtyard behind a large terrace, this long-running Ljubljana eatery prepares exemplary Mediterranean cui- LJUBLJANA • TRG MDB 1 sine, with an emphasis on dishes from Slovenia’s coastal regions. www.brasil.si Seasonal specials are regularly offered, and the entire menu is 00386 31 250 247 naturally complimented by an excellent wine list. The steaks and homemade gnocchi are among our favourite dishes, but for something really unique try the Kraški risotto, which is made us- served straight from skewers - unlimited. ing Jamar sir (a cheese aged in a cave 70m underground).QC-3, All you can eat self-service from salad, Nazorjeva 8, tel.Oglas +386 60x90 (0)1 02 426 copy.pdf 74 02, 1 [email protected], 21.3.2013 16:29:17 www. allegria.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€7-19). PTJA6UEGBSW TaBar This ultra-modern new concept restaurant and bar com- EVERYOPEN DAY bines Slovenian-style tapas with an excellent selection of wines from some of the country’s top producers. The menu has a strong Mediterranean influence, featuring everything from tender prosciutto and salami to roasted octopus and baked shrimp - all prepared with fresh local ingredients in an open kitchen, where you can watch the magic happen if you’re lucky enough to find an open seat. € C Lunch - 4 course menu from 7 to 8 For those adverse to making decisions, there are three- Weekend lunch - 5 course menu 10€ and five-course tasting menus selected by the chef (our M preferred option), while many patrons simply drop in to

Y sample a few glasses of wine.QD-3, Ribji Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)31 764 063, [email protected], www.tabar.si. Open , CM Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 00:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PTJA6UGBW MY

CY Middle Eastern CMY Skuhna A truly unique culinary and social venture, Skuhna is the re- K sult of a joint-effort by two Slovene non-profits to help better integrate the country’s vibrant migrant community, while at the same time offering locals the opportunity to experience diverse foods and cultures from around the world. The project initially provided training for several full-time chefs, who now organise an ongoing programme of lunches, dinners, work- Nazorjeva 8, Ljubljana shops and catering services. You can taste authentic cuisine 01 426 7402 www.allegria.si from around the world for lunch everyday, while on Saturday evenings dinner is available, which is usually accompanied by facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 35 Restaurants

ribji trg 6 l 1000 ljubljana + 3 8 6 l 0 l 31 764 063 tabar.si

music,TaBar_124x41.indd presentations or other 1 cultural elements. A full calendar Parma 23.01.14 20:46 of upcoming events and lots of other info can be found on A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordi- the official website and Facebook page.QE-3, Trubarjeva 56, nary tables, most dining here is done at the large tel. +386 (0)41 339 978, [email protected], www.skuhna. bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find si. PTJE an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, Yildiz Han take a look at the large photographs on the wall of Set on the ground floor a beautiful century-old villa just be- the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find hind castle hill, the city’s only Turkish restaurant is just a few it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at minutes’ walk from the old town, yet is still something of an the southern end of Maxi Market.QB/C-4, Trg Re- undiscovered gem for most residents and tourists alike. Deco- publike 2, tel. +386 (0)1 426 82 22, foculus@siol. rated in traditional Turkish style, with low tables and cushy net, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. Open 10:00 - seating, carpets on the walls and Ataturk above the door, as 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-6.20). impressive as it all looks, the food still manages to exceed ex- TJA6ULG BXSW pectations. An already lengthy menu is supplemented with regional specialities on a regular basis, and complimented with a surprisingly good selection of Turkish wines. At the weekends diners are treated to bellydancing shows, and a resident fortune-teller is often on hand to read what your coffee grounds tell about your future. It’s always a good idea to book ahead.QE-5, Karlovška 19, tel. +386 (0)1 426 57 17, yildiz@ siol.net, www.yildiz-han.com. Open 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€6-12). PJAUGBS

Pizza Foculus Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92 95, [email protected], www.picerija.net/foculus.htm. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS

Many more Restaurants online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

36 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

Pizzeria Osmica Located on the pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. The menu boasts over two dozen pizzas, and several choice of salad, lasagna and tortillas are also on offer in the comfortable rustic setting - think lots of wood and exposed stone with an open kitchen. We stop by for lunch or grab a pizza to go on the way home quite often, but if we were forced to choose a favourite it’d have to be the Tartufo, which comes heaped with prosciutto, salami, parmesan and of course truffle oil.QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 58 72, [email protected], www.osmica.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.50-8.30). PTJA6UBSW

Quick Eats Burger King After being more or less raised on fast food in the US, we consider ourselves something of an expert on the subject, and as such we can say unequivocally that Burger King easily comes out ahead when compared to any other internationally known burger joint (not naming any names of course). If you don’t believe us, head to the food court on the first floor of CityPark and try a Whopper for yourself.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (Cityp- ark), tel. +386 (0)1 520 01 47. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€2.80-5.80). PTAULGS

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 37 Restaurants Burrito Loco The concept of this newly opened Mexican takeaway in the centre of town will be immediately familiar to anyone who has eaten at one of the widely popular Chipotle Mexican Grills whilst in the United States, namely, huge mission- style burritos prepared to order with your choice of fresh ingredients. The menu also includes quesadillas, soft tacos and salads, but for us the real standout here is the pulled pork burrito with guacamole. If you like what you taste, ask for a stamp card - collect ten stamps and the eleventh burrito is free.QC-4, Slovenska 6, tel. +386 (0)31 897 694, www.facebook.com/burritolocoLJ. Open 10:00 - 22:00, and condiments. Hot Horse was also twice selected by our Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €. JNS readers as the Best Fast Food restaurant in Ljubjana. Visit their large modern kiosk near the arena in Tivoli Park, or their other Falafel outlets in BTC and Rudnik near Rutar.QB-2, Tivoli Park, tel. A tiny little place churning out delicious falafel-based +386 (0)1 521 14 27, [email protected], www.hot-horse. delicacies plus the usual array of pizzas and burgers. An si. Open 09:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS excellent choice for vegetarians on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime period.QE-3, Trubar- Hood Burger jeva 40/+386 (0)41 64 01 66, www.alja-shaar.com/ Hood Burger was a revelation for Ljubljana’s fast food afi- falafel.htm. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1- cionados when it first began operating out of a simple food 7). JA6UVGS truck in the parking lot of the Interspar shopping centre in Vič back in 2012, quickly earning a reputation as one of the Hot Horse best burger joints in town and shortly thereafter moving into A true Ljubljana institution, a stop at Hot Horse is a must for all new premises nearby. The key to the American-style burgers’ first-time and returning visitors. The legendary horseburger is popularity begins with the homemade potato buns and ends not only an original Slovenian creation, but is also healthy, low with a mandatory side-order of real French fries, while the in fat and richoglas in protein maj 14.pdf and iron, 1 26.5.2014 and the 17:00:12menu now boasts mouthwatering images frequently posted to their Facebook a wider variety than ever before, including wraps, steaks and page don’t hurt either.QJ-5, Jamova 105, tel. +386 (0)40 hot dogs, all of which come with your choice of toppings 540 411. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €. LBS

www.hot-horse.si

C THE FIRST AND THE ONLY M ORIGINAL HORSEBURGER

Y IN THE WORLD.

MY CY New location CMY Hot-Horse, Rudnik K

Premrlova 14, Ljubljana Open 09 am – 12 pm (Mon-Sun) Hot-Horse, BTC shopping centre Hot-Horse, park Tivoli Šmartinska 152,Ljubljana Celovška 25, Ljubljana Open 09 am – 06 am (Mon-Sun) Open 09 am – 06 am (Mon-Sun)

38 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Klobasarna It’s not often you find a restaurant where the menu consists largely of one item, but when the famed Kran- jska Klobasa is the dish in question then that’s really all you need. Taking its name from the city of Kranj, this hearty sausage was at the centre of so-called ‘klobasa wars’ between Slovenia and Austria (and later Croatia) over the rights to the EU-protected name. History and politics aside, this trendy takeaway opposite the Cathe- dral is the best place to taste what all the ado is about. They also serve the traditional Slovene dishes jota and ričet, hearty stews that go great with the famed sausage.QCiril-Metodov 15, tel. +386 (0)51 605 017, [email protected], www.klobasarna.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JS

Surf’n’Fries We recently began noticing people carrying around boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city centre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. We’re still not sure where the ‘surf’ part of the name comes in (as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heaping portions of fries prepare in a variety of ways and accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the non-vegetarians. Open late, because everything fried tastes better after a night of drinking. QC-3, Plečnikov Trg. Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €2.10-4.50.

Tandoori Such is the lack of good, reasonably-priced ethnic food in Ljubljana that rumours of this place’s imminent opening were swirling excitedly around the city’s expat community for months before the smells of curry finally began filling the air near the eastern end of Trubarjeva Ulica. Thus it was with high expectations that we shortly thereafter joined the line of eager patrons outside Ljubljana’s first Indian takeaway, and emerged happy to report that all is as it should be: fresh, spicy, fragrant cuisine from the subcontinent for under €5. If we had to choose one standout it would likely be the chicken curry naan wraps, but we have yet to be disappointed by anything on the menu.QE-3, Trubarjeva 60, tel. +386 (0)40 549 472/+386 (0)40 549 161, lokal.tandoori@ gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JS

OPEN UNTIL 4AM

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 39 Oglas 60x90 02 copy.pdf 2 21.3.2013 16:29:20

various sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, salads, EVERY DAY EVERYOPEN DAY soups, smoothies and other vegetarian and vegan- friendly treats that they turn out are as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper behind the counter.QB-4, Prešernova 15, tel. +386 (0)1 244 62 75, [email protected], www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. iJABSW

C Govinda’s M Tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood just north of the city centre, this oasis comes complete with a peaceful gar- Y den and is steeped in good karma. As well as being fam-

CM ily friendly, students are looked after with generous portions, pregnant women get a 25% discount and its animal MY friendly aka vegetarian. The daily buffet features a range of cuisines including excellent Indian, and even meat-lovers CY will enjoy the wholesome and delectable vegetarian (veg- CMY Pizza, lasagna, an & gluten free) delights.QŽibertova 23, tel. +386 (0)59 tortilla and salads 058 381, [email protected], www.govindas.si. Open K 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €2-9. PT

from € Loving Hut od 5,2 The world’s fastest growing (and perhaps only) international vegan fast food chain, Loving Hut has finally opened an outlet in the city centre two years after setting up a take- Nazorjeva 8, Ljubljana away stand in Mestni Log. Located opposite the main bus 01 426 5872 www.osmica.si and train station, stepping inside this oasis of peacefulness and serenity makes us feel healthier and more relaxed before we even order. Offering an assortment of vegan dish- Žak es, including surprisingly delicious kebaps, burgers and Located under the hulking Ajdovščina building just off Wiener schnitzel, Loving Hut is an attractive alternative a busy crossroads, this French-style bakery whips up to the usual fast food options found in these parts - even tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt a for non-vegans like us.QD-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to 14, tel. +386 (0)68 126 970, lovinghutljubljana@gmail. extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared vien- com, www.lovinghut.si. Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - noiseries, gourmet bread, sandwiches and salads cost 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. slightly more than the pre-packaged brands found in all the supermarkets, but are well-worth the premium. QC-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 74, fs-lj@ World Cuisine siol.net, www.pekarna-zak.si. Open 06:30 - 19:00, new The 5 Kitchen & Bar Sat 06:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. €0.50 - 3.00. JS Found just a few steps from the Central Market and Dragon Bridge, The 5 is unlike any other restaurant in Ljubljana. The concept behind the place is to bring the Vegetarian best tastes from five continents to the same kitchen Bazilika Bistro (hence the name), and the food, atmosphere and ser- A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, vice are all roundly excellent. The menu is limited to a Bazilika is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space handful of exquisitely prepared and presented seasonal in the city centre opposite the Presidential Palace and dishes, with daily offers displayed on the chalkboard just around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. above the bar. And speaking of the bar, the unique While countless proprietors claim to use only fresh lo- house cocktails all come highly recommended.QE-4, cally-sourced ingredients, Bazilika actually posts pho- Streliška 22, tel. +386 (0)59 050 133, [email protected], tos of daily visits to local farmers, markets and gardens the5.kitchen. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. to their social media pages, assuring patrons that the

Many more Restaurants online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Cafes

Bazilika Shop & Cafe it stands out from the crowd with a solid drinks list fea- Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest areas turing quality Slovenian wines and good beers includ- of Ljubljana, this café is one of the closest things you’ll find ing draught Weihenstephaner - very tasty beer from the to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you feel how world’s oldest brewery. A great selection of cocktails is you leave the bustle, noise and grey of the city behind available as well as Flancat’s speciality and namesake and are welcomed by very soothing music and décor. A sweet - a delicate Slovenian pastry which goes fabu- great place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf lously with coffee.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, the net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 23:00. service too.QD-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. +386 (0)41 530 539, [email protected], www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJSW

Café Plato A stylish café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a The best coﬀ ee snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, plato@ in Ljubljana :) siol.net, plato.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3). PTJA6G BKSW fresh sendwiches, croissants, Caffe Promenada fresh cakes, selected wines Having a drink along the banks of the Ljubljanica is a quint- essential Ljubljana experience, and one of the best spots for it is at Café Promenada just across the river from the central market. Sitting at Promenada represents the city’s laid back lifestyle at its best - relax over a morning coffee or enjoy a glass of wine in the evening while watching the river and pedestrians flow by.QPetkovškovo Nabrežje 9, Coﬀ eeshop Kapuciner tel. +386 (0)8 383 10 82. Kongresni trg 15, Ljubljana Flancat www.kapuciner.si This trendy little café bar is the newest edition to the E-mail: [email protected] Petkovškovo promenade, one of Ljubljana’s favourite www.facebook.com/kapuciner.kavarna drinking spots. Flancat is not alone in offering a pleasant Open: mon. - sat. 7.00-24.00, sun. 8.00-22.00 riverside setting with the castle as a backdrop, though 42 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Oglas_Kapucinear_60x90_1.indd 1 3/19/14 8:33 PM Cafes Kapuciner Sitting alone on the south side of Kongresni Trg, Kapuciner is a relaxing spot to grab a drink especially when the sun is shining down on the large promenade. This sleek all day café and bar satisfies caffeine cravings all day long, whilst they also have a selection of tasty sweet treats. Kapuciner’s drinks list is better than most around town with some fine local wines and a few good beers to choose from.QC-4, Kongresni Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)83 815 604, [email protected], www. kapuciner.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

Kavarna Rog Kavarna Rog is one of our favourite cafés around - and not only because it’s a 30 second walk from our flat. Located along the Ljubljanica below the old Rog bicycle factory, the café is one of the few places in town where you can find a proper breakfast, and the lengthy menu of gourmet soups, sandwiches, salads and desserts (not to mention wines) makes it a popular lunchtime stop. It stays open late as well, and the dark and moody modern interior is perhaps best suited for a drink than anything else.QF-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 67, tel. +386 (0)1 6200 260, www.kavarna-rog.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (€3-9). Holidays 08:00-24:00. PTJAUBW

KMŠ Café With its rather garish sofas, KMŠ (pronounced K - M - SH) might not jump out as an obvious breakfast choice, but as you tuck into your eggs and bacon you’ll be more than con- vinced. The unique recycled newspaper walls offset the sofas, making for a fascinating interior. The breakfasts can also Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75/+386 be taken away, but it is always recommended to sit inside (0)51 605 400, [email protected], www.lepetit.si. Open and enjoy, with your choice from its large selection of coffee 07:30 - 01:00. PTJA6UG BSW or an excellent smoothie.QTržaška 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 74 80, www.klubkms.si. Open , Mon, Tue 08:00 - 18:00, Wed, Nebotičnik Café Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. After being shuttered for nearly a decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the public. Occupying the Le Petit Café top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik (or Skyscraper) Close your eyes, and try to imagine a café called Le Petit building - which was the highest residential structure in that happens to be sitting on a square named after the Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s 360 degree French Revolution. Le Petit café will match your imagin- views from the Alps to the castle to the hills in the south are ings and then some. Our first thought was adorable, but truly breathtaking, and the coffee, cocktails and homemade there is so much more to it than this. An excellent choice cakes are worth trying as well. This is a must see stop for all for breakfast or an afternoon coffee, Parisian chic abounds visitors.QC-3, Štefanova 1, tel. +386 (0)40 60 17 87, info@ with added elegance and grace, whether you choose to neboticnik.si, www.neboticnik.si. Open Sun-Wed 09:00- sit outside or in the none-more-romantic inside.QC-4, Trg 01:00, Thur-Sat 09:00-03:00. PA6USW

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 43 Cafes ficial preservatives or colours, whilst its jams (more than Coffee & Cakes 25 varieties!) are jam packed with fruit. Also on offer are Fetiche Patisserie baked goods (sweet and savoury), fruit salad, frozen yo- Summer time is a time where our sweet tooth is given full gurt topped with Lotos’ fabulous jam and decaf coffee to freedom to flourish, and we’re basically saying that sum- go which despite lacking caffeine tastes great.QBreg 16, mer equals ice cream. Ljubljana is full of good ice cream [email protected]. Open options, and Fetiche Patisserie on Cankarjevo nabrežje 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. is without doubt one of the best. An impressively wide selection is enhanced by the dedication to natural and Torta Ljubljana genuine flavour. You’ll find nothing less than 100 per cent This takeaway cake shop in the Plečnik Arcade has much fruit here. Fetiche also possess a mouth-watering array of more to it than meets the eye. To begin with its epony- sweets that are as good as impossible to resist. Indulge mous Ljubljana Cake is the only sweet we know of in town yourself, it is summer after allQD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje that comes with its own creation myth, which involves a 25, tel. +386 (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetichepatisserie. fickle lord living in Ljubljana Castle, a beautiful daughter com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. waiting to be wed, and a plucky local chef who concocts the perfect recipe. The retro-style cake has been recreated new Sladkarnica in Marmeladnica using only typical Slovenian ingredients (including gluten Lotos free 100% buckwheat flour) and can be purchased in sev- We always thought cupcakes were more style than sub- eral sizes, all of which come in custom designed reusable stance, but the Lotos sweets and jam shop on Breg have packaging. The cakes can now also be found at Kavarna managed to combine both, offering gorgeous cupcakes SEM, Nebotičnik and Platana.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo which taste great, each spiralling high with icing or Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)30 300 618/+386 (0)41 272 433, cream and hiding a delectable filling. A family run busi- [email protected]. ness, Lotos do things the old fashion way using no arti- Cool Cafés COFFEE AND ICE CREAM new Fresh Point Cacao Recently opened on Miklošičeva, Fresh Point is a darling Boasting an unbeatable location just steps from Lju- little café dealing in frozen yogurt, and boy is it good. The bljana’s famed Prešernov Trg, Cacao is the city’s top bright interior exudes joy, from where you have a choice of destination for ice cream lovers - overwhelmingly four yogurt flavours to be enhanced by a gloriously huge voted as having the best ice cream in town in each selection of toppings, with everything from fresh fruits and every In Your Pocket Best of Summertime com- to candy to chocolate and everything else in between. petition to date. It’s large tree-shaded terrace along There’s almost too much choice, which is not something the banks of the Ljublajanica also gets top marks for we’re going to complain about. Delightful staff rounds off atmosphere, while the laid-back chocolate brown this little charmer.QMiklošičeva 7a, tel. +386 (0)51 37 37 interior is a great place to chill out with a mouthwa- 95, www.fresh-point.si. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - tering slice of gourmet cake or freshly prepared fruit 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00. smoothie. One of our, and seemingly everyone else’s, favourites.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, [email protected], www.cacao.si. Open Many more cafés online at 08:00 - 22:00. Summertime 08:00 - 00:00. PT JA6UGBSW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

The KMŠ Hangover sandwich does exactly what it says on the tin 44 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

After a long day at work, AS Aperativo is the perfect place to unwind with a post-work drink

Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place creations for thirsty patrons. Find it in a secluded courtyard goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with just off of Prešernov Trg.QC-3, Čopova 5 (Knafljev Prehod), cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, [email protected], www. early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go gostilnaas.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. J6UBXW home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still Bi-Ko-Fe packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg Situated on a sloping cobbled lane in Ljubljana’s old town, is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters, students, art- most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby. ists, designers, musicians and the like. The winner of an Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, award for design, the interior was entirely renovated using and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about recycled and refurbished furniture and materials, and we walking home on your own late at night. can honestly say that it’s one of the cosiest places to relax with a drink (or a coffee) in the city. Live DJs keep the place bumping on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, and Bars from time to time musical acts (some quite well-known) 13 perform cover-free shows for the cool crowd. They also The narrowness of the building could have been consid- now offer light snacks, including some of the best sand- ered an issue, but the team behind Café 13 have remark- wiches in LJ, which are made daily by a local Japanese ably turned it into a plus. Tiled floors, oak walls and seating woman.QC-4, Židovska Steza 2, tel. +386 (0)14 25 93 carved into those very walls give the feeling of being in a 93, [email protected], www.bikofe.com. Open 07:00 much more spacious place than is true, and the display of - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Holidays 18:00-01:00. sweets in the centre will convince even those without a PJA6UBXSW sweet tooth. If this isn’t enough, the large terrace provides another option.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 5, tel. +386 Fétiche (0)1 320 94 82. Open 07:30 - 01:00. PA6BW A dark and moody, space-age cocktail bar on two levels complete with everything a cocktail bar should possess. As Aperitivo Sit in the company of wannabe supermodels and young Now housed in slick ultra-modern premises that have been boys with their expensive trousers falling down and gaze the recipient of numerous design awards, this long-running in wonder at the vast model pictures, retro furniture lounge bar is almost as much of a Ljubljana institution as and the obligatory huge mirror ball. The cocktail menu its namesake restaurant next door. A top destination for is perhaps the largest in town, and all are made using the business set, Aperitivo is definitely one of the city’s only premium spirits and fresh fruit. There’s outside more glamorous settings in which to grab a drink, the seating near the river too, and a French style patisserie whole place turning into a large open-air terrace during the next door.QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 warmer months. Live DJs keep the party going most nights, (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetiche.si. Open 09:00 - 01:00. while the Italian head bartender prepares some masterful PJA6GBXW 46 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Kavarna Maček TOZD Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in A favourite destination for Ljubljana’s cool crowd from the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something a little seemingly the day it opened (if not even earlier), TOZD’s stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls dec- carefully crafted interior boasts brick walls, red leather orated with some nice black and white photographic por- benches, original photography from contemporary Slovene traits of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular artists, a number of fixed-gear bikes, and a bar designed to with families toting young children during the weekends. resemble a kitchen counter. There’s also a large library of QD-4, Krojaška 5, tel. +386 (0)14 25 37 91, info@sobe- books (including many in English) to keep you busy on rainy macek.si, www.sobe-macek.si. Open 09:00 - 00:30, Sun days, whilst sampling gourmet coffee or something from 09:00 - 23:00. TJA6UGBSW the impressive wine list. On nice days take a seat outside under some giant trees along a quieter stretch of the Lju- Klub Daktari bljanica river.QD-4, Galusovo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)40 Sharing its name with the Swahili word for doctor, we’re not 699 453. Open 08:30 - 24:00. TJABS sure if there’s a connection, but the place always cures us of any bad mood we’re in. Located next to several other bars near the entrance to the funicular railway, Daktari reopened in 2012 after more than a year of renovations - a labour of Clubs love from the sociable owners, who are usually on hand Cvetličarna chatting with customers. The bar exudes an old-time ambi- More a concert hall than a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna is a ence and charm that is a rarity these days: restored antique good place to check out on Friday and Saturday nights. At furniture, shelves full of books, a player piano in the corner other times it opens to host local and foreign bands, often and a stage that is occasionally used for live music sets, jam well-known international and regional acts, as well as stand sessions, theatre, cabaret and an eclectic mix of other cul- up comedians, including many English ones, on Mondays tural events.QD-3, Krekov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)64 166 212, and some Tuesdays. The venue itself is big and the atmo- [email protected], www.daktari.si. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun sphere is usually great. Check their website or Facebook page 09:00 - 24:00. PiJAEBX for a schedule of upcoming events.QL-2, Kranjčeva 20, tel. +386 (0)590 26 316/+386 (0)4129 55 95, fax +386 (0)590 26 Prulček Bar 317, [email protected], www.cvetlicarna.info. Surrounded by apartment blocks in the residential neighbourhood of Prule, this spunky outfit is yet more evidence En Pub of why you should never judge a book by its cover (or in If you’d like to experience the best of Belgrade’s legendary this case a bar by its uninspiring social-era façade). Since party scene without the hassle of a ten-hour train ride south, it opened in 2012, Prulček has quietly become one of the then En Pub in Šiška is one of the best options for an all-night city’s foremost venues for live music, with its Wednesday Balkan-style party in the Slovene capital. Friday nights feature night jazz sessions routinely packing the house and car- live bands and DJs playing a mix of fun Balkan music and in- rying on well past the time when responsible working ternational hits, while Saturdays see Serbian bands and DJs people have gone to bed. And to top things off, their beer come to town. Both nights just about guarantee a packed selection is on par with any other bar in town. Check their house dancing away until the place finally closes at six in frequently updated Facebook page for more info about the morning. For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub upcoming events.QD-5, Prijateljeva 2, [email protected], simply has to be experienced to be believed.QH-1, Celovška www.prulcek.si. Open 06:30 - 23:30. 150, tel. +386 (0)1 514 11 27, [email protected], www.enpub. si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 06:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Rollbar-Karting BTC Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PTA6UGBXW Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car- theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink- driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120km/h, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65km/h.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70/+386 (0)51 603 333, info@indoor- karting.com, www.indoor-karting.com. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AUEGBXW Dance the night away at EN Pub in Šiška facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 47 Nightlife Gala Hala As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s re- gionally renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and audiences, and from May till October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their website for a complete list of upcoming shows. QF-1, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 43 17 063, drustvo. [email protected], www.galahala.com.

KMŠ Hangover Well, what would you expect from a club with such a name? Subtlety isn’t sitting too high on the menu, but the masses of revellers that pack it out aren’t going to grumble about that. Wednesday and Thursday brings us open-air events, street BBQs and much more, with a range of excellent DJs providing a high-tempo soundtrack throughout. KMŠ Hangover prides itself on its good vibe, and we’re hard- pushed to disagree.QTržaška 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 74 80, www.klubkms.si. Open , Mon, Tue 08:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KMŠ Hangover put on street events, BBQs and DJs every Wednesday and Thursday Pubs thing in the city centre that resembles where you drink at Beer Pub Galilej home, this one should provide everything you need.QB- Galilej Pub is just down the street from the IYP office (lucky us), 2, Slovenska 36, tel. +386 (0)7 082 47 28. Open 07:00 - although it’s well worth dropping by even if you don’t live in 03:00. Closed Sun. PALEGCW Bežigrad. Despite being perhaps one of the smallest pubs in town - basically just one cosy bar and a little beer garden - it’s a Parlament Pub favourite of local beer aficionados. On offer is an excellent beer Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar selection, more than 100 from around the world at last count, oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and including some interesting local brews, and there’s also an or- (you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop ganised beer tasting every Saturday. Galilej is also a beer shop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer offering bottles to go whilst loyal patrons are rewarded with and cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and every 11th beer free.QL-2, Dunajska 101, tel. +386 (0)59 0 335 lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place 339/+386 (0)51 640 169, [email protected], www.pivoteka.si. to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg.QC-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43. Open 08:00 - 04:00. Guinness Pub PJA6UEGBXW Enough Guinness mirrors to keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable cubby holes and a splen- Sir William’s Pub did little summer courtyard on the small street behind the An all together classier affair than most other pubs in town, main university building. Draught beers include Guinness Sir William’s clientele is largely a reflection of its location in and Kilkenny, Tag from the popular Austrian/Slovene craft the city centre between the national courthouse and Radio brewery Bevog. Friendly and different enough to be wor- Television Slovenia, as well as several business hotels. Boast- thy of at least a little plaudits, put this one on your pub- ing one of the largest beer selections in Slovenia, there are crawl list for sure.QB-3, Gosposka 3, tel. +386 (0)1426 62 over 110 different varieties to choose from, and the country’s 93, www.guinnesspub.net. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun best craft beer, Human Fish, is always on tap. The atmosphere 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBX is generally warm and laid-back, with patrons chatting to the staff about beer or watching something on the big screen TV. Holidays’ Pub Follow their Facebook page for info about beer tastings and Kilkenny and Guinness on tap inside a mildly Irish-themed other events.QD-2, Tavčarjeva 8a, tel. +386 (0)5 99 44 825, bar complete with booth seating for intimate drinking ses- [email protected], sirwilliamspub.webs.com. sions and a predominantly younger crowd. If you’re just in Open Mon-Fri 08:00-01:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 and 19:00- on an EasyJet flight from England and are looking for some- 01:00, Sun 17:00-24:00. PJABSW 48 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Nightlife

Wine Bars Billiards, Bowling, etc. Dvorni Bar Biljardna Hiša This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café dur- Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes ing the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Consisting of There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine- one large open space underneath exposed wood rafters oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much geared towards the restaurant crowd, with tapas and exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a lunch specials on offer. With upwards of 100 varieties of large glass-enclosed self-service smoking area and wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages a summer garden area in the front, while quality rock if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s tunes will have you humming along between shots. You wine growing regions.QB-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 can expect at least a short wait for a table at the week- (0)1 251 12 57, [email protected], www.dvornibar. ends, so don’t forget to get your name on the list.QC-1, net. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50- Parmova 25, tel. +386 (0)12 36 20 12, biljardnahisa@ 15). PTJHA6UEGBKXSW gmail.com, www.biljardna-hisa.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. ALX Movia The Slovenian Movia vineyards have been producing quality plonk for longer than anyone can remember, Pub Crawls and this, their little showcase wine bar in the old town, Party in Ljubljana is a fine place to come and try some of their excel- Run by a young local team of self-described party ani- lent products. Found slightly hidden away inside a mals, which guarantees customers ‘A night you won’t little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than a remember, a night you won’t forget’, Party in Ljubljana telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and can arrange everything from a party guide to show small even serves a selection of food especially prepared to groups what a typical night out in the Slovene capital is compliment the wines on offer.QB-3, Mestni Trg 2, like, to the full VIP treatment with limo rides and VIP ta- tel. +386 (0)1 425 54 48, [email protected], bles. The standard pub crawl can be supplemented with www.movia.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. prepaid alcohol packages based on what kind of drinker PYJ6UGBX you are (ie pussy, normal or heavy), while perhaps their most interesting service is a crash course in picking up Vander Urbani Slovene girls with the help of a ‘bad-ass’ wingman for the Set down a narrow alleyway on the street level of the night. Booking and enquiries can be made on their very Vander Urbani Resort in the old town, the wine list at user-friendly website.Qtel. +386 (0)31 339 393, info@ this modern lounge bar dwarfs the full menus found partyin.eu, www.partyin.eu/ljubljana. at many of the city’s restaurants. Focussed primarily on Slovenian wines, there is also an ample selection of foreign bottles, but don’t let the sheer scale of choice overwhelm you, as the staff sommelier is glad to make recommendations, and every glass is ac- OPEN companied with some traditional homemade snacks. UNTIL Wine tastings and other related events are frequently 4AM held, and usually tied together by month-long themes. QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, info@ EVERY DAY vanderhotel.com, vanderhotel.com. Open 07:00 - DJ 24:00. PJAEW facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 49 Sightseeing

The creation of Jože Plečnik, Žale cemetery is also the great man’s resting place Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town whether or not this is an improvement but it does amuse us to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are whenever we walk past.QE-3, Resljeva Cesta. more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the Buildings occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) planning all work together in harmony to create the most The 15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the unique of cities. ages, and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the original medieval coat of arms on the building. In- side, you can view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall Bridges and banquet hall. Tours are available by appointment at the Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) tourist office.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 11 71, Perhaps Ljubljana’s most characteristic structure(s), the [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 19:00. triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plečnik, who Cemeteries took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) lamps and stone balustrades.QD-3. Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in Since it opened in 1901, Zmajski Most has been locked in a 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white fierce competition with the castle and the conspicuously pink colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photographed Sight in the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and Ljubljana. At any given moment during daylight hours (and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels only slightly less frequently at night) there is sure to be at least and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architec- a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons tural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality guarding either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we The final resting place of many Slovenian greats includ- snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten ing Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste ap- Jewish population of the city.QL/M-2, Med Hmeljniki 2, parently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je tel. +386 (0)1420 17 00, [email protected], www.zale.si. Open ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a smattering 07:00 - 19:00. April-September 07:00-21:00. 50 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing Churches Ljubljana Castle As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian architecture. Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00.

Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaja) With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Baroque masterpiece is a cavalcade of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring.QD-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1234 26 70, [email protected], lj-stolnica.rkc.si.

Franciscan Church (Frančiškanski Samostan) Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fash- Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska planota) and dom- ion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church domi- inating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnifi- nates Prešernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larg- cent castle stands on the site of several former defensive er complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats south of the old town. The current ensemble of build- inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charm- ings originates from necessary 16th-century recon- ing frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel struction work following the earthquake of 1511, with notable for containing a cross designed by none other than several later additions. Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points The main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously raised a further 1.2m by the government in 1982. The sunny day.QD-3, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)1242 93 00. tower’s Virtual Castle screens a 12-minute film showing an interesting and informative history of the castle. Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) On the same floor you find a small door that takes you Built alongside the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, in 1936 to serve the city’s Serbian community, this wholly each individually decorated with an image of the tower unremarkable church complete with all the usual osten- and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small tatious details, is worth visiting during services, daily at viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with won- 10:00.QB-2, Prešernova, tel. +386 (0)1252 40 02. derful views of the city. A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see Museums & Galleries more info under Museums & Galleries. The castle also City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s also a popular how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its place for local weddings, and during the summer puts good and bad colours throughout history. Featuring both per- on concerts and, in July, hosts an outdoor cinema. To manent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, for a crash-course in city history. Find scale models of unfulfilled or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre and Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and open market. Q Grajska Planota 1, +386 (0)306 42 93, much more besides. Check out the fabulous little website for [email protected], www.ljubljanskigrad.si. upcoming exhibitions.QC-4, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1241 October - March 10:00 - 21:00, April - September 09:00 25 00, [email protected], www.mestnimuzej.si. Open - 23:00. Full combined ticket €5-8, half combined ticket 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3-6, Guded tour €6-10. Special discounts for families. €4/2,50. English-language guided tours last Sun at 11:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 51 Ljubljana OLD TOWN Ljubljana EXPERIENCE

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The Museum of Contemporary Art, between Metelkova and Tabor Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej piece with an additional modern wing thrown on for Sodobne Umetnosti Metelkova) good measure, this above-average gallery features Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century branch of the National Museum, the Museum of Contem- up to the first half of the 20th century, including porary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Mu- paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar (1867- seum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in 1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and Ivana Kobilca the centre of the city. Nearly two years of renovations has (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition in the transformed the former administrative building into the building focuses on European painting, and includes city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The Italian painting through to the more modernist work museum is focussed on works from the 1960s to the of the early 20th century. The gallery also contains a present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted small gift shop, which has several good books and to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde movement, as postcards.QB/C-2, Prešernova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 241 well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the 54 18, [email protected], www.ng-slo.si. Open 10:00 - Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans. 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.5-7. QF-2, Maistrova 3, [email protected], www.mg-lj.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 National Museum of Contemporary students/pensioners, €3.50 groups. History (Muzej Novejše Zgodovine Slovenije) Museum of Modern Art (Moderna If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fas- Galerija) cinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard presents the history of Slovenia from the period around Ravnikar’s Plečnik-inspired building have finally re- the start of WWI until the Slovenian Presidency of the EU opened to the public. Continuing on from where the in 2008. Using a combination of well-presented exhibits National Gallery stops, the city’s excellent Museum of including old photographs, clothing and household items Modern Art houses a fine collection of Slovenian and the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation international 20th-century art.QB-3, Tomšičeva 14, through and between the two world wars and the difficult tel. +386 (0)12 41 68 00, [email protected], www.mg-lj.si. and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The build- Open Tues-Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. ing itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous combi- Admission €5 for adults, €2.50 for students/pension- nation of original Baroque and the interesting modernist ers. No admission fee first Sunday of every month. work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991. QB-1, Celovška 23, tel. +386 (0)1 300 96 10, uprava@ National Gallery (Narodna Galerija) muzej-nz.si, www.muzej-nz.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Inside Czech architect František Edmund Škabrout’s Closed Mon. Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance master- Admission €3.50 for adults, €2.50 for children, €8 family. 54 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing top 10 sights

Zmajski Most (Dra- Prešernov Trg gon Bridge) One of It’s no exaggeration the most photographed to say that Prešeren sights in Ljubljana, Zmajski Sqaure is not Most, or Dragon Bridge, is only the centre of also one of our personal fa- Ljubljana, but truly vourites, topped with four the spiritual centre ferocious dragons.QE-3, of the Slovene Resljeva Cesta. nation - and more practically the de Kongresni Trg facto meeting point Completely renovated in the city. QD-3, Prešeren Square. in 2011, Kongresni Trg is home to some impres- River Boat Cruises sive buildings, and also Slowly meandering frequently hosts events. through the old town, The name is often used the Ljubljanica river by locals to refer to both offers an interesting the square and the adja- angle from which cent Zvezda Park. to take in the many sights, with a number Križanke of tourist boats oblig- Consisting of several ingly plying its waters. venues located inside a former monastery com- Tivoli Park plex, the summer thea- Ljubljana’s central tre is another Plečnik park, Tivoli offers creation and one of the countless paths, most atmospheric con- fields and play ar- cert venues in the city. eas, as well as forest trails on Rožnik hill. Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) Facilities includes Definitely the most sports centres and dominant sight in a couple museums. the city, in addition QA/B-2. to its extremely photogenic appearance Tromostovje Ljubljana’s famed (Triple Bridge) castle is home to a Arguably Plečnik’s couple of excellent most famous work restaurants, exhibi- (though we would tions spaces and argue otherwise), other venues. QD-4, Grajska Planota 1. the famed Triple Bridge connects Metelkova Mesto Prešeren Square with F-1/2, Masarykova the old town on the other side of the river.QD-3. 24. Since squatters moved into these Tržnica former army bar- Ljubljana’s large open-air racks in 1993, Me- central market is at its liveli- telkova has slowly est on Saturday mornings, grown into an es- when seemingly half of the tablished nightlife city comes here to buy a centre with various week’s supply of fruit and bars, clubs and arts vegetables directly from spaces. QF-1/2 local farmers.

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 55 Sightseeing National Museum of Slovenia (Narodni Muzej) Ljubljana Zoo Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th- century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1821. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions.QB- 3, Prešernova 20, tel. +386 (0)12 41 44 00, info@nms. si, www.nms.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4-8.5.

Slovenian Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej) Attached to Ljubljana’s National Museum, the Natural History Museum isn’t the best in the world by a long way but it does offer an assortment of oddities to beat the rainy blues away or to simply keep the children amused for a while. Among the many peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete set of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the museum’s strangest display. Known so for its pinky human flesh appearance, Located to the west of the city centre, and sur- the little Proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found ex- rounded by the natural forests at the edge of Rožnik clusively in a relatively small area including parts of Slo- hill, the zoo is easily reached by public transport venia, Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina. The gift shop fea- (bus 23), taxi (€3-4) or on foot (25-35 minutes). tures a handful of fun things for the kids including small Thanks to its position it stays refreshing cool here build-your-own dinosaur kits.QB-3, Prešernova 20, tel. during the summer months, and is completely in- +386 (0)1 241 09 40, [email protected], www2.pms-lj. sulated from the noise and commotion of the city si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission throughout the year.QI-3, Večna Pot 70, tel. +386 €2.5-3, combined admission with National Museum (0)1 244 21 88, [email protected], www.zoo.si. Open of Slovenia €3-5. daily 09:00-16:00 in Jan-Feb, 09:00-17:00 in Mar & Oct, 09:00-18:00 in Apr & Sept, and 09:00-19:00 May-Aug. Admission €8 for adults, €6.5 student/ Parks & Gardens seniors, €4.50-5.50 children, €2 persons with dis- Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) abilities, €2 dogs. Free for children under 2. Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part of the biology department of Ljubljana University and has 2 hectares of protected landscape, with over 4500 species of native Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of and foreign plants. Guided tours of groups over 15 peo- lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this ple are possible for a small fee and when booked 10 days part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun ad- in advance.QL-4, Ižanska 15, tel. +386 (0)14 27 12 80, venture playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini- [email protected], www.botanicni-vrt.si. Open golf best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00, November-March and bicycles are available for rent from various points 07:00-17:00. Admission free for individuals, €1-2,5 throughout the park during the summer. You will need guided views (€35-50/group). to leave ID as a guarantee you will bring the bike back. As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the Tivoli Park area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights Tivoli is where the people of Ljubljana who don’t leave including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the the city spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place glorious 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the for the general health and recreation of the city’s popu- Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far south- lation, at some five square kilometres, Ljubljana’s gar- western reaches, in an area designated as a nature re- gantuan bucolic lung - literally two streets west of the serve, the city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the city centre - is so packed with good things to see and do monument to Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. that it’s almost worth visiting the Slovenian capital just Truboz was an early force in Slovene literature and the to come here. creation of a Slovene national identity.QA/B-2. 56 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com summerjamoglas.pdf 1 23.5.2014 8:45:03

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K Sightseeing River Cruises Slocally.com Barka Ljubljanica No trip to Ljubljana is complete without taking a water- In much the same way that the Slow Food move- based tour, and the handmade wooden boat operated by ment revolutionised the way people view the expe- the young team at Laker Craft is easily the most attractive rience of enjoying a good meal, the cleverly named of all the crafts plying the waters of the Ljubljanica. Even Slocally.com aims to promote a wider movement for those who live here, it’s like viewing the city for the of Slow Tourism in Slovenia, and offers dozens first time, drawing ones attention to details that are invis- of unique activities for visitors to participate in - ible from solid ground. A standard ride lasts just under from tasting locally produced foods and wines on an hour, and offers views of most of the old town’s major family-run farms to experiencing traditional local sights from a unique vantage point, and private trips can events and fairs to taking part in a diverse variety also be arranged, offering a unique way to impress busi- of hands-on workshops. We’re not exaggerating ness clients or have an unforgettable romantic evening. when we say that there’s likely no better or more The 10m flat-bottomed vessel is constructed of solid larch convenient way to get to know Slovenia. Detailed and oak wood, and can host up to 50 people at a time, descriptions and clearly indicated prices can be while catering can also be arranged through a number of found on the very informative website, and the local restaurants. Moored just next to Novi Trg along the passionate creator of the project, Vesna Velišček, redeveloped Breg waterfront, it’s just a few minutes’ walk is always happy to answer any questions you may from parking garage at Kongresni Trg.QBreg 2, tel. +386 have.QFrankopanska 29, tel. +386 (0)41 432 488, (0)41 386 945, [email protected], www.barka- [email protected], www.slocally.com. ljubljanica.si. Operates 11:00-20:00 from May-Oct and 15:00-21:00 from Nov-Jan. Rides €8 per person, chil- city centre. Guided tours are at 12:00 and 16:00 every dren under 12 free. Private hire from €120. day, and a special ‘romantic ride’ leaves at 21:00. Tickets can be purchased in advance at the Tourist Information Ladjica Ljubljana Centre, of at the departure point, and groups can also One of the most interesting and popular way to tour- arrange private tours outside of the regular schedule. ists (or locals for that matter) to see Ljubljana is from QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje, www.ladjica.si the surface of the Ljubljanica river, which winds its way through the heart of the city, passing most of the major sites along the way. One of the the longest run- Squares ning river boat tour operators is Ladjica Ljubljana. With Mestni Trg (Town Square) two boats they offer up to nine scheduled trips per The centre of medieval Ljubljana, the town’s main day, leaving from the pier at Ribji Trg (just steps from square was damaged in the 1511 earthquake and sub- Tromostovje Bridge along Cankarjevo Nabrežje) and sequently rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses heading south all the way to Špica, before making the the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th return trip to Dragon Bridge on the other side of the century Lichtenberg house and the Souvan house with its Empire façade.QD-3/4. Swimming Pools Prešernov Trg (Prešeren Square) Laguna City Beach Formally a meeting place for several roads in front of one This large water park is located on the northern of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square outskirts of town, but is easily reached by sev- since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in eral city bus lines (6, 8, 11), and has been named the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most the best pool in Slovenia seven years in a row. It important landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet boasts two pools with over 500m² of surface area, France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 1800-1849), and a smaller third one specially designed for kids. it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large The complex also contains a full-sized wellness statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a centre with various spa and massage treatments site for concerts and events during the summer. The charm- (including a hydro-massage pool and jacuzzi), ing little public space is ringed by a number of interesting and a sports and fitness centre. Admission prices sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the vary depending on the time and day of the week Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century as well as one’s age, and seasonal passes are also flamboyance and site of the soon to be reopened Cen- available.QDunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)15 68 39 tromerkur department store.QD-3. 13, [email protected], www.laguna.si. Pool facilities open daily 09:00-20:00 from May to Oct. Opening times vary for spa and sports facilities. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Admission €7.50-16.

58 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Lipica Stud Farm

Lipica Stud Farm has flourished tremendously since its To get a little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a vari- conception over 400 years ago. Set amongst beautiful ety of invigorating horse riding programmes, as well as natural surroundings,it is not only home to more than lessons for more advanced riders. If you ever imagined 350 Lipizzaner horses, but also very rich in history. Since yourself as a brave knight of old then you just might its foundation by the Habsburg Archduke Charles II in want to seize the days and give it a try! On a side-note, 1580, Lipica has become one of the most prominent at- they also offer pony riding lessons for kids between tractions Slovenia has to offer. three and seven years old, where, for a very reasonable One of the many reasons this stud farm stands so proud- price, the little one will learn the basics of riding horses, ly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and more importantly, how to treat them. and distinguished horses have taken a major part in the At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the comfort development of this amazing establishment since the of your accommodation, where you can enjoy various delivery beginning, and are reputed for having an eager- cacies of the Karst, and relay in the peace of the secluded ness to learn. Best of all they have been particularly well- location, resting up for the next day’s learning, riding, show trained in the art of riding, which has enabled a large or indeed onward journey. By virtue of the ample facilities assortment of activities and events to occur frequently, in the main centre, Lipica in as excellent destination either making now more than a fine time to pay a visit. for all manner of conferences, or to get married. To put it simply, Lipikum museum excels in portraying And last but not least, it would be folly not to mention the amazing Lipizzaner through modern presentations, the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud with both interactive displays and classical exhibits. It Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their el- will leave you knowing more than you could hope to, egant trots, turns and other skills. The training sessions and all through a pleasant and amusing experience for are open to spectators and of course there is a busy both adults and children. The Stud Farm also offers a programme of equestrian events and shows to be con- nice and informative tour (available in English, Italian, sidered when planning your visit, including the follow- German, Croatian, French and Slovene), where friendly ing: Alpe Adra Dressage Trophy Finals (29-31 August), guides will see that you are well informed about Lipica’s Vilenica International Literary Festival (3-6 September), most beloved beast, and extensive history how of how Slovenian Driving Championship (12-14 September) and it came to be. Days of the Lipica Stud Farm (12-14 September). For centuries Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage draw- Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the long ing into their area of expertise. Now, you can take a carriage faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without paying ride through Lipica’s colourful and peaceful atmosphere of Lipica a visit!QLipica 5, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 739 1580, groomed grounds, with your own friendly carriage driver. fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, [email protected], www.lipica.org. Sightseeing September.Qtel. +386 (0)1 232 99 94, virtualni-grad@ Tours ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Jan - Mar, Go2Slovenia Nov - Sun 11:00, 15:00 Regardless of what it is you fancy do- Apr - May, Oct, Dec - Sat and Sun 11:00, 15:00 ing, there is a good chance that Go2S- Jun - Sept - Daily 11:00, 13:00, 17:00. 19:00. Admission: €10 lovenia will have it covered. An impres- (€12 with funicular), children (aged 7 - 18) 50% discount. sive collection of cuisine-related tours is our favourites, with culinary walks, workshops and craft beer education Tourist Information on the menu. There is a lot more to Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (TIC) offer than just food though, with a A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of variety of sporting activities, photo maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s walks, shopping tours and, of course, on in the city and a range of information on what to see and mega fun parties also available. Get to know the country do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with ac- through the people who make it up. For more information commodation, and should be one of your first ports of call on any of the tours, head to the website.Qtel. +386 (0)41 when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen 34 48 65, [email protected], www.go2slovenia.si. in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Ljubljana Free Tours Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax +386 (0)13 06 12 The cult of the free tour has well and truly taken over Europe, 04, [email protected], www.visitljubljana.com. Open and Ljubljana is in. There aren’t many better ways of getting a daily Oct-May 08:00-19:00, June-Sept 08:00-21:00. great introduction to the city from a diverse group of passionate and engaging guides. Meeting on Prešeren Square every Slovenian Tourist Information Center day at 11:00, the tour covers everything from the city centre to (STIC) the medieval old town to spooky (okay, not spooky) hidden Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less alleys and a whole lot more. It also has a number of paid tours crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres available by prior booking, such as a Communist tour and a away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock Mystical tour. Maybe the future will hold a Mystical Commu- heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the en- nist Tour. For now, the free tour is the best in town.Qtel. +386 tire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can (0)40 55 58 43/+386 (0)40 60 44 76, ljubljanafreetour@ be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down gmail.com, www.ljubljanafreetour.com. of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €8 per day, and are a great way to see Ljubljananjam more of the city.QC-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 45 This project is best described as a hub for foodies in Ljubljana, 75, fax +386 (0)1 306 45 80, [email protected], www. helping both locals and visitors discover all the great things visitljubljana.com. Open Oct-May 08:00-19:00, Sat, Sun & that the city’s dining scene has to offer: the best food, craft holidays 09:00-17:00, Jun-Sept 08:00-21:00 daily. beer, wine and more. The attractive user-friendly English language website, is a great place to find upcoming events, read interviews and generally get a good overview of Ljubljana’s Urbana Ljubljana burgeoning culinary initiatives. However, perhaps most interesting are the food and drink walks, which can be tailored to Tourist Card individual tastes. Kept small and intimate with a maximum of Rated as one of Europe’s five people, they are guided by Ljubljana natives and high- best city cards, Tourism light independent, local restaurants, small inns, eateries, Ljubljana’s Urbana of- pubs and cafés that use fresh seasonal and mostly organic fers free admission to all ingredients (in other words, the opposite of the usual tourist of the city’s main sights traps that are inevitably found in every city centre in Europe). as well as free unlimited Qwww.ljubljananjam.si. transport LPP’s extensive urban bus network. Time Machine At The Castle The card can be purchased at most hotels and all While it may be an often-claimed slogan, the Time Ma- three of Ljubljana’s Tourist Information Centres chine guided tour at Ljubljana Castle truly is a tour like no (on Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje, at the main train other. Follow the history of one of the biggest symbols station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are €23/30/35 of Ljubljana through six of its most important periods, for 24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains from Roman Emona through to the 20th century. You are RFID chip - is activated upon its first use. Order guided along each step by a different costumed character online and save 10% of the regular price!Qwww. from each time, creating a unique atmosphere that we visitljubljana.si. 24-hour card €23, 48-hour card can’t help but enjoy. Starting from the information point €30, 72-hour card €35. at the castle, the tour runs four times a day from June to 60 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Kids Travelling with the little ones can definitely be a challenge, and Ljubljana does not always cater to the sandbox segment of the population, but with our useful guide to kid-friendly places in town, boredom should easily be held at bay. Let the children delve into these great venues and events.

Family Centres Mala Ulica Upon entering Mala Ulica, we can honestly say that we’ve never desired to be children once more quite as much. It truly is a child’s heaven. The interior well and truly comes to life, with Ljubljana’s most famous buildings carved into the walls, the perfect mesh of education and fun. A large outdoor area, library tower and labyrinth can also be found, but there is so much more to Mala Ulica than just a playtime heaven. A forward-thinking social program, it provides as much for parents as it does children, dragging quality time out of what would normally just be passed. Fairytales en- hance the educational aspect, and workshops are frequently put on including language classes, and even origami. Not only that, but these fairytales and workshops are held Mon- day to Sunday throughout the year, even on holidays. Now, where did we put our time machine…QPrečna ulica 7, tel. +386 (0)1 306 27 00, [email protected], www.malaulica. si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Shopping for Kids Little Giraffe Just as celebrities set the fashion trends, so too their kids set Mala Ulica is truly a child’s dream come true the benchmark of style and quality for kids clothing, acces- unravelled before their eyes. Lutkovno Gledališče, the central sories and toys, and the hottest brand on the market is Little Slovenian puppet theatre, has been joyfully creating puppet Giraffe which is a favourite of Hollywood’s biggest (or littlest) shows since 1948. Slovenia has a proud puppet heritage, and stars from the Cruises to the Pitts. This luxury label for infants the theatre goes a long way to preserving it. Taking up its cur- & toddlers is now available in Ljubljana, with an outlet located rent residence in 1984 on Krekov trg, the theatre has six ven- in the city’s premier department store Maxi.QTrg Republike ues in total and is visited by 110,000 people every single year. 1, tel. +386 (0)51 66 06 26, [email protected], Inside the theatre we also find an adorable bookstore, where www.littlegiraffe.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00. children’s books, gifts and souvenirs can be purchased. Head to the website for a full calendar of events.QKrekov trg 2, tel. Nama Kids +386 (0)1 300 08 92, [email protected], www.lgl.si. Up on the fifth floor of the Nama store in the centre of Ljubljana, the kids section here is something to behold. It really is difficult not to reminisce about childhood, as cuddly toys, board games, PARKS AND OUTDOOR animal figurines and other toys fill up every possible space. An Atlantis Water Park impressive range of clothes can also be found, covering ages Located where else but in BTC City, Atlantis is arguably the from just born up to growing pains. A small area is also on hand, top destination for water-based entertainment and fun in as well as a café for parents to get a well-deserved sit down. Ljubljana. The huge complex is roughly divided into three QTomšičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 85 00, [email protected], main areas: Adventure World, a classic water park for kids www.nama.si. Open 09: - 00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. and families; the Thermal Temple, a more relaxing space with both indoor and outdoor thermal pools; and Sauna Land, which includes some 15 different saunas, most of Entertainment & Events which are themed. Additional services include Thai mas- Puppet Theatre Ljubljana (Lutkovno sages, a hair salon and various different catering facilities. Gledališče) Opening hours and prices vary for each of the facilities here, Regardless of where you come from, we can all remember so for more detailed info it’s best to check the official web- being enchanting by puppets as children. Whether it was on site, which is in multiple languages including English.QN-2, TV or live performances, children all over the world sat (and Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 585 21 00, vodnomesto@ still sit) wide-eyed and bushy-trailed as the puppet shows btc.si, www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 61 Shopping

Explore the largest collection of quality handmade products in the entire country at Galerija Rustika

Department Stores Fashion Maxi Ljubljana is home to a selection of renowned international Slovenia’s most storied department store recently re- brands, unique boutiques and its very own Slovenian- ceived an extensive interior makeover, bringing the mod- made designer clothing, so you shouldn’t have any trouble ern shopping experience to the heart of the city centre finding something surprisingly original. while still maintaining the building’s landmark façade. Cosmetics, accessories, men’s and women’s fashion – in- Betty Barclay cluding collections from several noted Slovene designers With a newly opened store on Ciril Metodov Trg, Betty - are spread across the top three floors, whereas the base- Barclay continue to provide contemporary clothes for the ment level is home to arguably the country’s best super- women of the modern world, with their internationally re- market. Several other shops, boutiques and restaurants spected brand adding that extra gravitas desired. A collec- are located in the brightly lit underground arcade on the tion for summer 2014 focuses on elegance and sophistica- same premises.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)1 476 tion, all the while keeping a close eye on the latest trends. 68 00, [email protected], www.maxi.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Betty Barclay is for those who want a genuine enjoyment Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. of fashion of the most current designQCiril Metodov Trg 2, tel. +386 (01) 439 37 90, [email protected], Nama www.bettybarclay.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 Set in the heart of the city centre, just opposite the central - 13:00. Closed Sun. post office, this modern department store offers several floors of clothing for men and women, with brands rang- Forma F+ ing from sporty to trendy to sophisticated. A large selec- One of Ljubljana’s largest fashion and sporting good me- tion of household items can be found on the fourth floor gastores, in addition to the individual approach and per- and a supermarket stocked with an appetising variety of sonal advice from resident professional athletes, Forma ready meals, salads, produce and other quick eats is in the F+ also offers an exclusive range of top brands, including basement, while the ground floor is where you will find Quiksilver, Roxy, Rossignol, SuperDry, Columbia and Nike. cosmetics and accessories.QC-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. +386 It’s located on three floors of the Crystal Palace building (0)1 425 83 00, [email protected], www.nama.si. Open in BTC City, and there’s also a Forma F+ Outlet in Hala 11, 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. where items from last season can be bought with a sig- 62 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Shopping nificant discount.QM-2, Ameriška 8, BTC City, tel. +386 are ambitious, curious, positive and always up-to-date on (0)5 994 61 80/+386 (0)1 300 08 26, [email protected], www. the latest trends. The brand’s range includes handbags, fplus.si. Open 09:00-20:00. Closed Sun and holidays. business bags, wallets and luggage.veQC/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. +386 (0) 1 251 10 10, www.bags.si. Open 09:30 - Krznarstvo Eber 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Just the throw of a stone from Prešeren square, this delightful little boutique has been in business for almost Marina Yachting 100 years, opening its doors way back in 1919. The very Ideally located on Novi Trg in Ljubljana’s old town, Ma- definition of a family business, the Eber family have been rina Yachting brings the fashions of the sea to the city. providing the people of Ljubljana with the finest fur Using lightweight materials allowing for maximum products in town for generations, with the focus square- comfort, the traditions of the sailors are respected ly on local products. Coats, hats, bags and a variety of at every turn as modern twists are developed creat- other accessories, it is all here in abundance.QWolfova ing clothes to be worn for every occasion. Nothing is 6, tel. +386 (0)1 421 57 00, [email protected], rushed, and the care taken over each garment is obvi- www.krznarstvo-eber.com. Open 09:30-13:00, 17:00- ous to all. The brand is constantly evolving, producing 19:00, Sat 09:30-12:00. Closed Sun. fashionable and classy attire with ease.QC-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 425 1107, marina.yachting@amis. M4 Line net, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 The heady world of upmarket fashion can be a little - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. daunting, but the inviting atmosphere of the store previously known as Malloni quickly washes that away. Max&Co Recently branching out to showcase a number of top MAX&Co. is all about style and glamour: a perfectly brands, the quality of the women’s clothes, shoes, calibrated blend of typically Italian quality and creativ- handbags and fashion accessories is never anything less ity. Sartorial tradition and state-of-the-art technology than high. Leaning towards Italian brands that empha- is applied to fashion design, and MAX&Co.’s collections size quality fabrics and handmade creation, the future are the fruit of a constantly evolving attitude and the will see renowned Slovenian designers being show- desire to experiment and innovate, which constitutes cased as well as the collection continuing to expand. the pioneering ethos of the brand. MAX&Co. are dis- QD-3, Mačkova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 721 702, malloni. tinguished by a fresh, contemporary international flair [email protected], www.malloni.com. Summer and purposefully designed to be reinterpreted accord- Mon-Fri10:00-13:00, 16:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. ing to one’s moods and whims.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 47 45, [email protected], www. Mandarina Duck liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Mandarina Duck is an innovative designer brand that of- Closed Sun. fers simple, unique and creative solutions for people who

Find high-quality handmade leather goods at the family-run Viktor Barlič on Mestni trg facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 63 Shopping

AGENT PROVOCATEUR SLOVENIA Opening Hours: Mon - Fri: 10:00 - 19:00 BREG 2, LJUBLJANA Sat: 10:00 - 14:00 Telephone +386 (0) 142 54188 Sun: Closed

www.agentprovocateur.com [email protected]

Petit Bateau is a winner of the prestigious Ljubljana Quality Selection, Petit Bateau is a century-old tradition based on the things so you can rest assured that you’ll be in good hands.QD- that should be a part of everyday life: Youthful playfulness, 4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, [email protected], sincere happiness and endless comfort. Since 1893 the www.barlic.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun brand has been an indispensable companion for children 10:00 - 15:00. and adults for whom quality and comfort are important. QD-4, Stari Trg 30, tel. +386 (0)5 993 49 89, petit- [email protected], www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Art Galleries & Antiques Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Galerija Idrijska Čipka The region of Idrija is particularly noted for its fine lace Quiksilver work, dating back to the 1600s, and Idrijska čipka show- The Ljubljana branch of the well-known international cases both traditional designs and more contemporary sporting apparel shop, stocks a variety of fashionable ca- pieces. At the shop you can get an introduction to all sual and sportswear for both men and women, whether things lace, including a demonstration from the shop your destination is the beach, the ski slopes or the moun- assistant on the piece she is currently working on - she tains.QD-4, Mestni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 251 10 73/+386 claimed that she is just a beginner, but it looked pretty (0)51 222 069, [email protected]. Open perfect to us.QD-4, Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)1 425 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. 00 51/+386 (0)31 314 558, [email protected], www.idrija-lace.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 Viktor Barlič - 14:00. Closed Sun. This family-run enterprise has been producing high-quality handmade leather goods since first opening its doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third generation Lingerie of the Barlič family specialises in the design and creation of Agent Provocateur original handbags and other leather accessories, combin- Agent Provocateur believes that ‘passion and intimacy ing traditional handmade methods with modern fashion should be indulged, and that exploring your inner de- trends. No two bags are exactly alike and the selection sires and fantasies profoundly enriches your life.’ Not changes weekly, making this is the perfect shop for those our words, the words of the Agent Provocateur philos- who take pride in being unique. A carefully chosen range ophy. You will find the famed and unseemly British lin- of imported women’s footwear is also available. The shop gerie boutique all over the world, including Slovenia. 64 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Shopping The range has expanded somewhat since the opening of their first shop in 1994 (on Broadwick Street, Soho) - Ljubljana’s boudoir featuring such delights as luxurious lingerie, enticing swimwear, seductive perfume, stylish accessories and even an exclusive edition of charades. QC/D-4, Breg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 41 88, ljubljana@ agentprovocateur.si, www.agentprovocateur.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Bjorn Borg Calvin Klein is so last century, taking its place as the trendiest underwear on the market is Bjorn Borg - the brand named after the 70s Swedish tennis icon. Borg panties are fun, sexy and most importantly, oh so very comfortable. The brand might be famous for its underwear, but they also offer a lot more, from apparel and accessories to scents and shoes. You’ll find a dazzling array of Bjorn Borg products for men, women and children at www.cukrcek.si the new Borgice in Ljubljana’s old town.QD-4, Mestni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)59 923 052, [email protected], www. A rich selection of borgice.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. homemade chocolates, pralines and chocho- Second Hand/Vintage late gifts. Gvant Tucked away in BTC City, Gvant is a vintage and second-hand clothes store with a range of garments on offer that is astounding, truth be told. Whereas many shops of this type tend to be small affairs, full of not much, Gvant’s strength lies in the breadth of choice available. New items are constantly brought in, meaning every trip brings fresh attire to be snapped up, and the prices are more than affordable, with plenty of bargains to be found. For vintage or second-hand en- thusiasts, Gvant is well worth the trip out to BTC. Great shop assistants too.QBTC CIty, Dvorana 3, tel. +386 (0)1 810 90 12, [email protected], www.gvant.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Slovenian Designers Cliché Shop Gallery Ljubljana-based Cliché Jelena Leskovar is one of the most intriguing fashion labels in the so-called ‘new Europe’. The designs are all created using a principle of FQ, or Fashion Intelligence Quotient, which promotes the longevity of forms and compatibility of pieces from new collections with previous ones. Cliché’s shop and gallery on Novi Trg offers both collections from its own brand, as well as complimentary accessories from designers based in Europe, the US and Japan. QC-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 42 63 152/+386 (0)31 Cukrček Chocolade Shop 372 990, [email protected], www.cliche.si. Open 12:00 - - Nebotočnik underpass 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. - on Mestni trg - on Miklošičeva 4 Much more shoping info online at - in Mercator center Ljubljana ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 65 Shopping tion to the usual assortment of souvenirs, from magnets Food & Drink and shot glasses to chocolate and schnapps (and of course Mesarstvo Krušič all manner of dragons), they also offer uniquely designed For those looking try a distinctly Slovene culinary staple, high-quality t-shirts, which conveniently come in their the family-run Krušič Butchery is the country’s top pro- own gift bag. If the weather is nice, you can even grab a vider of horse meat and assorted products. While the beer or soda to drink along the riverside promenade while thought of eating horse will strike visitors from certain writing the obligatory postcards.QD-3, Petkovškovo countries as an odd practice, from a nutritional point of Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, info@old-town. view the high protein and low fat meat is much healthier si. Open 09:00 - 19:00. than the more widely consumed alternatives. Using old family recipes, Krušič produces everything from pâtés to Trgovina Ika dry salami, and of course has a wide selection of fresh raw Ika puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion cuts, all of which come exclusively from Slovenia and have designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a won- received various quality awards. A second location can be derful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, found in the Plečnik Arcade at the central market, and their jewellery and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs products can also be purchased at Domača Vas in Kranj. here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Lju- QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 586 24 37, www. bljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique mesarstvo-krusic.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place. 13:00. Closed Sun. QD-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)1 232 17 43, [email protected], www.trgovina-ika.si. Open 10:00 Gifts & Souvenirs - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Čokoladnica Cukrček A charming, family-run business with four shops in the city, Home & Design Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and mak- Formadoma Design Shop ing children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among Being men, we don’t really understand where all of the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include our household items come from. Needless to say, if special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit we had our way this bright and modern boutique just covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with off Stari trg would be out first port of call. Packed to salt. In addition to the main location on Mestni Trg, you the brim with homemade items created by renowned can find Cukrček in the Nebotičnik passageway, opposite Hotel Union and in Mercator Centre Šiška.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)1 421 04 53, [email protected], www. cukrcek.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Galerija Rustika Featuring the largest selection of high-quality Slove- nian handicraft products in the entire country, Rus- tika is indeed equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like taking a guided tour through all of the many diverse regions and cultures found within Slovenia’s borders. Highlights include traditional bee- hive panels produced by an award-winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various different seasonal specialties. In addition to their beautiful premises just inside the gates of Ljubljana Castle, there’s a second location near Tromostovje Bridge.QD-4, Lju- bljanski Grad, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 383 247, www.galerijarustika.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Galerija Rustika QD-3, Stritarjeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www.galerijarustika.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Old Town Souvenirs Situated directly between Prešeren Square and Dragon Bridge, you’re guaranteed to pass by this well-stocked souvenir shop on any walking tour of Ljubljana. In addi- 66 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Shopping Citypark Boasting over 120 stores of all shapes and sizes, Citypark is Slovenia’s largest shopping centre, and the best place to find pretty much whatever you need while in Ljubljana. Be- sides the massive variety of stores - such as XYZ, K&O, Big Bang, Desigual, Hervis, H&M and an Interspar hypermarket - there is a terrific choice of places to eat, from Burger King to Thai food to traditional Slovenian. Unlike the city centre parking is never a problem, and there’s even a large children’s play area to keep the kids occupied. Find the Citypark page on Facebook to stay up to date with new openings and events.QM-3, Šmartinska 152g, tel. +386 (0)1 587 30 50, [email protected], www.citypark.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Wine, Spirits & Beer Pivoteka Za Popen’t Za Popen’t may be hidden away in a small courtyard off For the sexually adventurous, head to Red Shop of Stari Trg, but it’s selection of specialty beers is the larg- Slovene artists taking their cues from Scandinavian est in the country. At last count some 250 different beers style, the Design Shop just oozes elegance and quiet from around the world were weighing down the shelves style. Well-known Scandinavian brands are also avail- here, nearly all of which can be explained in detail by the able within, the very definition of refinement. Excel- friendly and knowledgeable owner or her staff. For those lent cushions too.QStari trg 5, tel. +386 (0)59 25 30 who don’t know much about beers (like us), don’t worry 02/+386 (0)68 601689, [email protected], www. - simply tell them what kind of flavours you like and they formadoma.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - will be able to find a beer for you to try!QD-4, Stari Trg 5, 14:00. Closed Sun. tel. +386 (0)1 256 59 16, [email protected], www. zapopent.si. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Sex Shops Šnopc o’ Tecca Red Shop The most amazing thing about this newly opened little Concentrating mainly on sex toys of all sorts, this store shop just off Prešernov Trg is that it’s the first and only offers a great variety of accessories that will help you venture in Ljubljana dedicated exclusively to selling enrich your sex life. You can visit the establishment in schnapps, which along with wine and beer is the third the old part of town or shop online. Just don’t expect member of the holy trinity that has kept the Slovene na- much help from the clerk, in English or otherwise. QD- tion a lively, sociable and extraordinarily friendly bunch 5, Gornji Trg 24, tel. +386 (0)14 25 32 29/+386 (0)41 over the centuries - not to mention the positive effect 62 46 08, [email protected], redshopnada@gmail. it’s had on the reproductive rate! All (half) joking aside, com, www.redshop.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 this is the best place to pick up a bottle of traditional - 13:00. Closed Sun. spirits for whatever the occasion may be, with some 70 different varieties from more than 200 of the top producers in Slovenia and Serbia.QD-3, Miklošičeva 2, Shopping Centres tel. +386 (0)1 425 17 06, [email protected], www. BTC City snopcotecca.si. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively enormous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling Vinoteka Dvor everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts Vinoteka Dvor is not only the best stocked wine shop in restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, the city centre, you can also browse their entire selec- indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volley- tion of some 700 Slovenian wines (as well as dozens from ball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities Italy and France) and order online. Not sure exactly what and its very own business district housing some of the you’re looking for? Narrow down the extensive choice by best known local and international companies. There’s region, sort, producer or price and get to tasting! free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a The gregarious chap who runs the place is an expert and couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the will help you through the minefield of local vintages. general direction of Maribor.QM-3, Šmartinska 152, tel. QC-4, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 251 36 44, vinoteka. +386 (0)1 585 22 22, [email protected], en.btc-city.com. Open [email protected], www.kozelj.si. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 67 Where to Stay Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommo- Hotel Listings Policy dation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in alphabetical order within that band. The price band comparison with western Europe. The city’s popularity refers to the rack rate for a double room. does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room you want in the the picturesque old town yet tucked away and quiet. location you want and for the price you want during the QRožna ulica 7, +386 (0) 82 05 72 40, www.adoraho- summer is highly recommended. tel.si, [email protected]

Antiq Hotels Over €170 A superb location in the heart of the old town with a Grand Hotel Union Business host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featur- Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing ing a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommo- touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly bou- dation comes in a choice of rooms and suites. Shared tique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the economy rooms have been approached with a taste- city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive ful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the website for further information.QD-3, Miklošičeva superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers 3, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1170, business@union-hotels. and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other eu, www.union-hotels.eu. 133 rooms (singles hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446). with wooden floors and minimalist furniture.QD-4, PiTJHAR6UFLGKDX� Gornji Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60, fax +386 (0)1 CW hhhh 421 35 65, [email protected], www.antiqhotel. eu. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 16 rooms (singles €85-110, Grand Hotel Union Executive doubles €156-206, extra bed €50) . PiJA� In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the R6IGW hhhh Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Austria Trend Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambi- Near the ring road 2km north of the city centre, this vast ence, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business class hotel provides high quality rooms in four business and leisure. Extras include two restaurants, different categories, plus a range of other excellent ser- a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift vices and facilities including a wellness centre, conference shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also rooms, restaurants, a fine cocktail bar and a fun oyster and hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday sushi bar. Popular for both relaxing business stays as well at 18:00.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1270, as a variety of different functions, you’ll be hard pressed [email protected], www.union-hotels.eu. 194 to find a better hotel of this type in the city.QL-2, Duna- rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites jska 154, tel. +386 (0)15 88 25 00, fax +386 (0)15 88 25 €455-546). PiJHAR6UFLGK� 99, [email protected], www.austria-trend.at/ DXCW hhhh lju. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 214 rooms (singles €100-125, doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments €225). PiOHA6UFGKDXW

Hotels €100-170 Central Adora The classic three-star hotel experience, the Central is the The latest addition to Gornji Trg’s array of boutique ho- little brother of the three Union hotels in the city. Geared tels, the Adora has been instantly popular. It’s appro- up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception priately cosy, housed in an old bourgeois residence, yet is crammed with the latest useful information about the completely renovated with the essential modern com- city and surrounding region. There’s a popular on-site bar forts. From the light and airy reception (the ambience and café, and the rooms feature everything you need for throughout in fact) you will wander through to the a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Ex- dining room where a self-service breakfast is served, cellent value accommodation indeed.QD-2, Miklošičeva then to the serene garden with lawn at the rear. A lift 9, tel. +386 (0)1 308 4300, [email protected], will take you to your floor and room, where the attrac- www.union-hotels.eu. 74 rooms (singles €90-167, tive teak furniture and subtle hint of colour will please doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PiJHA� most aesthetic palates. We found the location ideal, in R6UFGKDXCW hhh 68 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Where to Stay

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 69 Where to Stay Hotel Birokrat QDunajska cesta 91, +386 (0)1 530 02 12, [email protected], www. birokrathotel.com.

Four Points by Sheraton Ljubljana Mons Mons is style personified, with an instant impression made on arrival by the elegant reception and bar area. Follow- ing a mantra based on honest, uncomplicated comfort and offering more than just an upmarket sleeping option, weekly BBQs throughout summer present a fusion of excellent Balkan and American food, all you can eat no less, which we’re always in favour of. Mons is a part of the Starwood Preferred Guest program, the best (officially) loyalty program of its kind. A free shuttle service to the centre of Ljubljana and back is also available.QI- 4, Pot Za Brdom 4, tel. +386 (0)1 470 27 00, fax +386 (0)1 470 27 08, [email protected], www. fourpointsljubljanamons.com. 114 rooms (€109 - 129). PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh

G Design The exceedingly modern G Design may be one of Ljubljana’s newest hotels, but it also boasts over two hundred years of tradition, as the still functioning (and beautifully restored) Gostilna Gorjanc restaurant has been serving travellers at the same location since the end of the 18th century. The large well-furnished rooms feature soft lighting and super com- edge of the forest just a short drive south of the city centre. fortablefpt_OGLAS_LIYP_60x90_PRESS_NEW-7-2014.pdf beds, with panoramic views of Ljubljana 1 16.7.2014 castle in 16:12:16 QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 200 91 00, fax +386 (0)1 the distance. Well-equipped conference facilities and meet- 200 91 30, [email protected], www.gdesignhotel.si. 22 ing rooms are available, and for a real treat you can dine ‘in rooms (singles €85-115, doubles €120-150, suites €220- bed’ at the unique G Super Club. The hotel is conveniently 250). iHAULKW hhhh situated just off the Brezovica exit on the motorway, at the Ljubljana Resort Four Points by Sheraton Just a few kilometres out of the centre, Ljubljana Resort of- Ljubljana Mons fers an inspiring oasis for the entire family with accommoda- Pot za Brdom 4 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia tions in the form of hotel rooms (with breakfast), campers, T +386 1 47 02 700 FOURPOINTS.COM/LJUBLJANAMONS and space to set up your own tents. There are also two large restaurants; the Laguna swimming facility with pools and hot tubs; and quite a few indoor and outdoor sports facilities. In the evenings, the resort regularly holds concerts and other night time entertainment. The staff is small but exceedingly C friendly and is available 24 hours a day to make sure that you

M enjoy every minute of your stay.QL-1, Dunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)1 568 39 13, fax +386 (0)1 568 39 12, ljubljana. Y WHERE YOU [email protected], www.ljubljanaresort.si. 62 rooms (singles CM €60-115, doubles €70-130, triples €99-160, family €135- WANT TO BE (RENOVATED IN 2014) 200). PTHAULEGBKXCSW MY Always a great stay

CY • Free high-speed Wi-Fi throughout the hotel Plaza Hotel Ljubljana • Selected house beer with Best BrewsTM Reaching nearly 60m into the sky, the Plaza Hotel is one of the CMY • Weekly after-work BBQ parties tallest - and dare we say most elegant - buildings in Slovenia.

K • Great food at the Atrium Restaurant and cozy It boasts a total of 236 spacious luxuriously-appointed rooms, atmosphere at The Bar a first-rate restaurant and café, a 400m2 conference room on the 15th floor, and a rooftop lounge bar with cocktails that are almost as good as the view. Even if you live in Ljubljana you

©2011–2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights may want to consider booking a room for the night just to ex- Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Four Points and their logos are perience it all for yourself - we already have!QM-3, Bratislava the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its afﬁliates. 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, [email protected], www. plazahotel.si. 236 rooms. P iALKW hhhh 70 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

fpt_OGLAS_LIYP_60x90.indd 1 15/05/14 15:50 Where to Stay Hotels €70-100 Garni hotel Azur Alo Rooms Vrbinc B&B A modern bed and breakfast with that extra touch of comfort, the Vrbinc is more personal than any chain hotel, while retain- ing a sense of privacy. The corridors are beautifully decorated with murals of Slovenia, while the bright fresh rooms sleep up to five, and include a welcome pack with wine and other treats. Breakfast is especially impressive, made to order and served at your table in the restaurant. Located just off the motorway near the Rudnik shopping centre, Vrbinc is good for those with their own transport, and cars, bikes and scooters can also be rented onsite.QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, [email protected], www.alo- accommodation-ljubljana.si. Singles €49-69, doubles €59- This small welcoming hotel takes a personal ap- 79, triples €79-99, 4-person €99-129, 5-person €125-149. proach to guests’ needs and accommodating their desires. Ideally situated near both the city centre and Stil the motorway, it is also within walking distance of Located in a quiet peaceful setting near the ring road on the the city’s largest green space, Tivoli Park. Rooms are eastern edge of the city, Stil is a convenient choice for those individually decorated, and come with all the mod- with their own transport who are looking to avoid the noise ern amenities standard in larger hotels. They also and activity of the city centre. The modern building houses offer family rooms with extra space for little ones a range of rooms and apartments, and there’s a large park- and small kitchens, and an on-site shop sells regional ing lot for guests. All facilities are air-conditioned and come gourmet products. Perhaps best of all the rooms are with en suite bathrooms, mini-bars and wireless internet. located next to a great restaurant of the same name. Two seminar rooms are also available.QO-4, Litijska 188, QJ-4, Sattnerjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)59 333 600/+386 tel. +386 (0)15 48 43 43, [email protected], www.hotel- (0)40 636 205, fax +386 (0)59 333 608, azur. stil.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 43 rooms (singles €73, doubles [email protected], www.garnihotelazur.si. 7 €90, triples €115, apartments €100-180). PiHA� rooms. PiTAR6LW hhh R6ULGW hhh

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 71 Where to Stay LCD TVs and free internet,QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, [email protected], www.ljubljana-apartments.eu. Apartment 1 (2-3 peo- Tržaška 24, 1000 Ljubljana ple) €93, Apartment 2 (6-8) €176, ensuite rooms (2-4) Phone/Fax: €78-85. PTJA6GXW +386 (0)5 9020 452 +386 (0)41 874 400 fax:+386 (0)5 9060 012 MartaStudio These three self-contained studios and one large 106m² www.martastudio.eu [email protected] apartment are reasonably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short Meksiko 10-minute walk from the city centre, or an even shorter QF-2, Njegoševa 6k, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 90, info@ bus ride from the stop just a few metres away (lines 1 and hotel-meksiko.si, www.hotel-meksiko.si. Single rooms 6). A supermarket, restaurants and banks are all nearby, from €54, doubles from €78. PZJALKW and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is in the same building as the shop Mavrica, look for the house in the courtyard Hotels Under €70 with the red façade.QJ-4, Tržaška 24, tel. +386 (0)5 9020 Pension Jelen 452/+386 (0)41 874 400, fax +386 (0)5 9060 012, info@ Located on the old road leading to Medvode and on- martastudio.eu, www.martastudio.eu. (3 studios €60, 1 wards to Austria (Celovška Cesta is Slovene for Villach apartment €137). TA6L Road), Jelen has been hosting travellers since the late- 19th century, and is also a popular restaurant and piz- Old Town Rooms and Apartments zeria. Rooms are modernly equipped and the location These newly opened rooms and apartments in a renovat- offers easy access to Ljubljana’s sights as well as airport, ed house along the Ljubljanica allow guests to both enjoy and for those without their own transport, Jelen can be an authentic old town experience, while also having the conveniently reached by three different bus lines from comfort of modern accommodation - all just steps from the city centre (1, 8 and 25).QCelovška 462, tel. +386 Prešeren Square, Dragon Bridge and all the other sights (0)1 516 15 45, [email protected], www.pension- in Ljubljana’s medieval centre. All units are bright and jelen.eu. 16 rooms from €38. airy with wooden furnishings, heated ceramic tile floors,

Apartments Alo Apartments Vila Klara Renting an apartment can be an appealing option for groups of two or more travellers, and the self contained apartments at Vila Klara are a worthy choice. Located in a peaceful neighbourhood near the centre of Ljubljana, they have their own large balconies, twin/double bed, sofa-bed and kitchen with fridge. Not missing a thing on the ‘home comforts’ list, guests can even use the washing machine in the garage for free. Overseen by the friendly staff at the Alohotel Rooms Vrbinc, the service is warm and hospitable, making it an especially good option for families, and parking is included free.QK-5, Staretova 25, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, [email protected], www.alo- accommodation-ljubljana.si. 4 apartments (€69-109).

Kollmann Apartments These beautifully renovated luxury apartments and rooms right in the centre of the old town are truly a sight to behold. The highlight of the smaller unit is the king-sized wa- terbed located in a loft bedroom separated from the living room below, while the larger apartment is absolutely huge, with two bedrooms, a full bathtub and a washing machine. Both apartments and one of the rooms have fully-equipped kitchenettes, while the larger of the apartments and both rooms also have great views of the Lju- bljanica and old town below. All units feature brand new 72 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Where to Stay

Modernity and comfort in the heart of Ljubljana with Old Town Rooms and Apartments and modern necessities such as large flat screen TVs and (0)12 30 97 00, [email protected], www.hostelcelica. wireless internet. The upstairs apartment offers a fully- com. 29 rooms (rooms €19-32 per bed, dorms €19- equipped kitchen, cosy living room and dining area and a 25per bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h separate bedroom. Discounts are offered for longer stays. QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 Dragondoss 0851, [email protected], www.old-town.si. Rooms from We can’t think of a more ideal location for a hostel. Sitting €50, apartments from €80. PJAW on an adorable cobblestoned street literally a minute’s walk from the main city square, the biggest strength of Hostel Dragondoss is quite obvious. The hostel itself is Hostels small and functional, with a lovely balcony perfect for AdHoc Hostel meeting fellow guests over a few drinks. The décor is Despite the name, budget conscious travellers can rest wonderfully quirky, with images of the Postojna caves assured that every aspect of this newly opened hostel watching over all. Free Wi-Fi and cheap laundry are also has been thoroughly planned and executed - includ- available.QD-3, Prečna 4, tel. +386 (0)70 437 003, rvovic. ing all the small touches that backpackers are sure to [email protected]. Open 14:00 - 22:00. 8-bed dorm appreciate, such as ample common space, plenty of €14, 4-bed €16, twin room €18. showers and shelves for the top bunks. However, it’s the unbeatable location in the heart of the old town H2ostel just below the castle and only steps from all the major A cosy, good-value option located just steps from Drag- sites (and popular nightlife venues) that makes AdHoc on Bridge on a quiet mostly residential street along the a winner. A total of 92-beds are spread across several Ljubljanica river (hence the playful water-related name). floors and a combination of dorms and private rooms. Bright, colourful private rooms and dorms are uniquely QCankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, laid-out and furnished, spreading across several floors of [email protected], www.adhoc-hostel.com. what used to be an old villa given an extensive modern 8-bed dorm €16-20, private quadruple €17-23/per- renovation. The common room at the front has a couple of son, private double €19-27/person. PJGW free computers and a TV, while additional services include laundry, bike rentals, cheap car rentals and organised tours Celica throughout Slovenia. Some of the friendliest staff in town Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding build- to boot.QE-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 47, tel. +386 (0)41 ings close to the bus and train stations and the city centre 662 266/+386 (0)41 72 08 25, [email protected], started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian www.h2ohostel.com. Singles €30-60, doubles €36-52, military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms 3-bed dorm €16-22, 4-bed dorm €17-22, 6-bed dorm have preserved their original character, providing a cheap €13-19. PJRGW and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to Hostel 24 sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for dis- What we find here is good value budget accommodation abled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as in both private rooms and dorms, all of which are uniquely kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and furnished. Other amenities include a ground floor café bar bicycle hire. The hostel’s café serves excellent value set where guests get a 10 per cent discount, cheap laundry ser- lunches every day.QF-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. +386 vices and even a t-shirt shop if you fancy a custom-made facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 73 Where to Stay ing people we’ve had the pleasure of meeting. We don’t know how long we’ve been clamouring for bunk bed shelves and private electricity sockets, but Vila Veselova provide them in their excellent special-made bunks. Relaxing balconies, a delightful garden, plenty of free parking and free breakfast are also included, but it is the atmosphere and comfort that will make it almost impossible to leave.QB-3, Veselova 14, tel. +386 (0)59 92 67 21, [email protected], www.v-v.si. 8 rooms (single €45, double €56, 4-bed dorms €20, 6-bed dorms €16, 8-bed dorms €16). JARLGW hh

Around Ljubljana Penzion na Klancu For those who’d like to avoid the bustle of the city centre, but still have easy access to sights and activities in Lju- bljana, this 100 year-old but newly renovated guest house is perfectly situated in the town of Medvode some 11km from the capital. The spacious, smartly decorated rooms are complimented by an excellent restaurant, and the staff can recommend numerous activities and off the beaten path excursions in the surrounding countryside.QG- orenjska 13, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 361 82 55/+386 (0)31 673 068, [email protected], www.naklancu. com. Open 07:00:22:00. 13 rooms starting from €38. PALKW

souvenir. It’s all conveniently located in the shadow of the Camping castle, just a few steps east of Dragon Bridge. And if the hos- Alo Camp tel is full, they also operate several well-equipped private With 12 pitches, the camping place at Alohotel offers rooms elsewhere in the city.QPoljanska 15, tel. +386 (0)40 high quality facilities to campers and caravanners right 780 036/+386 (0)1 323 20 49, hostelandspa24@gmail. near the centre of the Slovene capital. The site includes com, www.hostel-spa24.com. 11 rooms (12-bed dorms electricity connections, a very attractive and modern €12-12.50, 6-bed dorms €19-19.50, 4-bed dorms €8-8.50, shower block designed with personal touches, and use private en suite rooms €17-25/person). J6KW of the facilities at the adjacent Alohotel, while the popular Gostilna Vrbinc restaurant serves up tasty Balkan Hostel Print cuisine. The location offers easy access to both the cen- In terms of accommodation, Print is actually more of a bud- tre and the motorway being just off junction 33 (one get hotel as all accommodation is in single, double and tri- junction west of Ljubljana jug).QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, ple rooms, which are fully furnished and even include fridg- tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, www. es. Tasty home-made breakfasts are also included in the alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si. price and easily exceed what you get at most other budget options. However, the place still manages to maintain a laid Camping Ljubljana back hostel vibe with several common areas and a huge ter- Completely renovated in 2005, the campground at Lju- race off the kitchen. Located in the student neighbourhood bljana Resort is open year round and is easily the cheapest of Rožna Dolina, it’s a short walk to the centre or a quick ride accommodation you’ll find in the city this side of free. The on bus 14 (hop off opposite Mercator).QJ-4, Rožna Dolina modern facilities cover some three green hectares along IV/34, tel. +386 (0)51 387 111, [email protected], the banks of the Sava River and the popular Laguna City www.hostelprint.com. 23 rooms (singles €41, doubles Beach is just steps away. There is a total of 177 pitches, all €19.99, triples €16.99, four bed €15.99, five bed €14.99, of which have electrical hookups, and you can even rent a twelfe bed €10.99) Prices don’t include turistic tax €1.01. tent or mobile home if you don’t have your own. From Oc- PTAR6LGXW tober to April they even heat the bathrooms. To get there take buses 6, 8 or 11 north from the city centre and alight Vila Veselova at the Ježica stop.QL-1, Dunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)1 589 Vila Veselova really makes the most of its location in a 01 30, [email protected], www.ljubljanaresort.si. 19th century mansion house. It helps that upon arrival Tents €4.50-6.50, caravans/campers €8.50-9.50, €4-7 you are welcomed by some of the most charming work- per person, pets €4.50. 74 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Embassy Feature With an official population of approximately 280,000 inhabitants, Ljubljana is somewhat smaller than Coventry, Embassies & Consulates England or Białystok, Poland and just larger than Brașov, Austria Romania or Münster, Germany - closer in size to a vil- QB-3, Prešernova 23, tel. +386 (0)1479 07 00, fax +386 lage than a metropolis. However, with all due respect (0)1252 17 17, [email protected], www.bmeia. to these other undoubtedly fine cities, Ljubljana boasts gv.at/laibach. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:30 - 12:00, a cosmopolitan feel well beyond what the simple num- Fri 8:30 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. bers would imply, thanks to factors including its status as an EU capital, its position at one of the continent’s China main geographical and historical crossroads, strong QL-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1420 28 55, fax +386 connections with the former Yugoslav states, a long tra- (0)1282 21 99, [email protected]. Open dition of culture and the arts, its quick establishment of 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. a (more or less) market-oriented economy in the early 1990s, its popularity as a destination for foreign stu- France dents, and its relatively high quality of life, especially for QC-5, Barjanska 1, tel. +386 (0)1479 04 00, fax +386 families and nature-lovers. All of this adds up to a thriv- (0)1425 04 10, [email protected], www. ing expat community, which we’ve tried to feature just a ambafrance-si.org. Open 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. bit of on the pages below. Germany Expat Chat QB-3, Prešernova 27, tel. +386 (0)1 479 03 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@siol. Name: Mark Sedmak net, www.laibach.diplo.de. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu Nationality: American 09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Age: 32 Italy How long have you lived QB-4, Snežniška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 21 94, fax +386 in Ljubljana? I have lived in (0)1 425 33 02, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - Ljubljana for the past 8 years. 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. What do you do? I have been teaching English as an Addi- Russia tional language and teaching QA-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1425 68 75, fax specific subjects at an Interna- +386 (0)1425 68 78, [email protected], www. tional School. Recently I have veleposlanistvorusije.mid.ru/. Open 08:00 - 17:00. opened a Mexican Fast Food Closed Sat, Sun. Restaurant in the city centre. How’s your Slovene? I speak Slovene fluently but there are still new words that I learn REAL ESTATE every day. What do you like most about Ljubljana? What I like best about Ljubljana is that it is both a city and town. It’s big enough to have plenty of choices and small enough to get around easily - either on foot or by bus. Favourite restaurant? My favourite restaurant is my own Burrito Loco. Favourite café? My favourite place to have a cup of coffee is at Arena bar next to my place on Rimska cesta. The coffee is really good and the bartenders are great. Favourite bar/club/pub? My favourite pub is Guinness The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for pub. They have a wide variety of beers and ales. foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja Favourite Slovenian gifts to take to friends/fam- has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and special- ily back home? My favourite gifts that I take back are ises in both residential and commercial rental proper- Slovenian sports memorabilia like shirts of scarves or a ties in the Slovene capital. They have a huge selection bottle of Viljamovka the William pear’s brandy. of houses, apartments and business premises, and will Favourite day trip from Ljubljana? Basically any- happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental where. I might go to Piran or set up a trip to Triglav with process, as well as buying and selling property around some friends. There is also Bled or Bohinj or any of the the country.QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 various spas outside of Ljubljana. Basically there are too 860/+386 (0)41 652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, many great places to have a favourite. [email protected], www.rent-a-realestate.com.

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 75 Embassy Feature 40 countries currently or permanently living in Slove- Diplomatic Corporate nia. Founded in 1993 as a non-profit, SILA dedicated to social, cultural and educational exchange among its Services members. Its main event of the year, is the annual charity bazaar held each winter.Qwww.sila.si. Diplomatic Cor- porate Services Slovenia Operated International Schools by Stoja Real Estate, British International School of Lju- as the name suggests bljana Diplomatic Corporate The British International School of Ljubljana opened its Services is a web por- doors in September 2008. Based in the Bežigrad area, tal and associated ser- to the north of the city centre, the school has a cur- vice agency that aims rent enrolment of around 170 children aged 3 to 18. to provide foreigners The Pre-School and Primary Section use the Interna- STOJA TRADE d.o.o., (primarily from the diplomatic and business com- tional Primary Curriculum (IPC) and the Secondary Dolenjska cesta 242C, SI-1000 Ljubljana munity) living and travelling in Ljubljana and else- Section prepares both Slovenian and foreign students where in Slovenia with all the relevant information for University of Cambridge ESOL and IGCSE exams, T: +386 1 2800 860, F: +386 1 2800 861 they could possibly need - from hotel and restau- with A-Level following later.QK-2, Podmilščakova 24, E: [email protected] rant recommendations to real estate services and tel. +386 (0)40 486 548, [email protected], medical care. Their dedicated multi-lingual team is www.britishschool.si. only a phone call or email away, while their website also provides a wealth of information.QDolenjska APARTMENTS I HOUSES I BUSINESS PREMISES I LAND 244c, tel. +386 (0)1 2800 860, [email protected], www. Language Courses dcs.si. www.dcs.si. Cene Štupar This long-running public institution operates under FOR RENT I FOR SALE I WE RENT I WE BUY UK the municipality of Ljubljana, and is one of the leading QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. +386 (0)1 200 39 10, fax +386 providers of Slovene language courses in the country. (0)1 425 01 74, [email protected], ukinslovenia.fco. New classes begin regularly, and include an accompa- Stoja Real Estate Agency is the most popular gov.uk. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. nying programme of workshops, excursions and other real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreign- cultural activities, all of which are led by young enthu- USA siastic instructors and come at very reasonable prices. ers, diplomats and local buisness people. QB-3, Prešernova 31, tel. +386 (0)1200 55 00, fax +386 QL-3, Linhartova 13, tel. +386 (0)1 234 44 00/+386 Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since (0)1200 55 55, [email protected], slovenia. (0)1 234 44 21, fax +386 (0)1 234 44 28, info@cene- 1996, and specialises in both residential and usembassy.gov. There is no opening hours, but you stupar.si, www.cene-stupar.si. commercial rental properties in the Slovene have to announce. capital. We have a huge selection of hous- Centre for Slovene as a Foreign Lan- guage es, apartments and business premises. Our Expat Organisations Courses in the Slovene language are available agents will happily assist customers with all International Club of Slovenia throughout the year, including free 180-hour courses aspects of the rental process, as well as buy- A fun club for (mostly professional) expats living in for foreign nationals holding valid residency permits ing and selling property around the country. Slovenia. The organisation is open to anyone who (depending on availability).QC/D-4, 12 Kongresni wants to meet new people and all their events are ad- Trg, tel. +386 (0)1 241 86 77/+386 (0)1 241 86 48, vertised on their website, and most are free to attend, [email protected], www.centerslo.net. including the popular Friday Night Drinks.QICS@ sloveniawelcomes.com, www.sloveniawelcomes. Veris com/expats. Veris is both one of Ljubljana’s top translation and interpretation companies, and most professionally- InterNations run language schools. In addition to offering Slovene InterNations is the world’s number one online expat language courses for foreigners of all levels, they also community, which offers a platform to easily meet teach English, Arabic, Chinese, Spanish, Russian and other expats in Ljubljana. In addition to a lively on- some half dozen other languages. Their modern fa- line community, members regularly get together at cilities are located in the Stegne business park in the events or take part in planning trips together.Qwww. northwest of city.QJ-1, Stegne 7, tel. +386 (0)1 5000 internations.org. 579, [email protected], www.veris.si. Slovenian International Ladies As- sociation Much more info online at The Slovenian International Ladies Association, or SILA, is a dynamic organisation of women from nearly ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com www.stoja-trade.si I www.rent-a-realestate.com I www.dcs.si STOJA TRADE d.o.o., Dolenjska cesta 242C, SI-1000 Ljubljana T: +386 1 2800 860, F: +386 1 2800 861 E: [email protected]

APARTMENTS I HOUSES I BUSINESS PREMISES I LAND FOR RENT I FOR SALE I WE RENT I WE BUY

Stoja Real Estate Agency is the most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people. Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. We have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises. Our agents will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.

www.stoja-trade.si I www.rent-a-realestate.com I www.dcs.si Around Ljubljana - Kamnik

Kamnik’s picturesque Little Castle stands watch over the old town In a country that prides itself on charming villages, el- trees and shrubs within its borders. Spring and summer egant squares and some of the most gorgeous towns are obviously the best times to visit as the flowers begin to in Europe, the word ‘beautiful’ can perhaps be overused blossom and the park plays host to all sorts of flower shows. to the point of redundancy. When talking about Kamnik Supposedly around two million tulips bloom every year, however, a medieval town some 23km northeast of Lju- one for every Slovene in the country. How romantic. How bljana, avoiding the word and its synonyms is nigh on spectacular.QVolcji Potok 3, Radomlje, tel. +386 (0)1 831 impossible. Crammed in an area of varied topography 23 45, [email protected], www.arboretum-vp.si. with dense forest sitting next to sharp mountain peaks and wooded valleys, there is an undeniable grace to its Kavarna Gostilna Galerija Majolka medieval city centre. The history of the town is visible A café, restaurant and gallery all rolled into one, Majolka to all through its varied (and well-maintained) architec- presents a most pleasing atmosphere in an old town ture, the affluence of its history sitting quietly next to house that can’t help but feel genuinely historical. Serving more modern times. Kamnik is all red roofs and narrow a fine mix of Slovene and international food as well as a se- twisting streets with the always-dramatic backdrop of lection of pizzas, it also offers light snacks and great coffee jagged Alpine mountaintops looming nearby. for lazy afternoons. An activity corner can keep the kids Sitting next to the Bistrica river and with castle ruins and entertained, and the gallery on the first floor showcases church steeples juxtaposed against the lush greenery of fine local arts and crafts.Qtel. +386 (0)1 31 85 63 72, the surroundings. [email protected], www.majolka.si. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Arboretum Volčji Potok Open to the public since the University of Ljubljana took it over in 1952, Arboretum Volcji Potok has since become the most visited horticultural site in the entire country, by some distance. When you entre the 80 hectare-wide grounds, it is very easy to see why. Volcji Potok truly is an explosion of colour in the most peaceful of ways. It is flowers as far as the eye can see with every colour imaginable represented. It is a majestic sight. It isn’t just flowers however. The gardens positively drip in elegance. As you stroll amongst the lakes and ponds, you feel that if you closed your eyes tight enough you could almost imagine being the head of a wealthy family from the long long ago patrolling your estate. Or maybe we are alone on that one. Volcji Potok is as ecologically diverse as anywhere you are going to come across, with over 2,500 different types of 78 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Around Ljubljana - Kamnik Mali Grad (Little Castle) Sitting proudly above the town, Mali Grad is worth every one of the steep steps you must trudge in order to reach it. The 11th or 12th century castle itself may lie in ruins, but who doesn’t love some castle ruins? The baroque-style chapel of St. Margaret is perfectly preserved however, and it rests peacefully on top of an old Slavic burial ground. Not only that, but the crypt is supposed to be guarded by Veronika (she of half-woman half-snake fame), keeping would-be thieves away from her treasure. Truth be told however, it is the views of Kamnik that really make Mali Grad a must-see when in the town. From the ruins of the castle you get a true idea of just how breathtaking Kamnik is. It is all understated yet colourful building and red roofs protecting narrow streets. Oh, and the Kam- nik Alps lurking (can mountains lurk?) in the background, providing the most dramatic of backdrops to a sight you’d Pri Cesarju, winner of the Best Hotel around Ljubljana poll be foolish to miss.QKamnik. balconies with views towards the majestic Kamnik-Savinja Gostilna Mili Vrh Alps.QTunjiška 1, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)41 629 846, info@ In the hills above Kamnik lies a little village by the name of Žale, cesarski-dvor.si, www.pricesarju.si. 11 rooms (singles €36, and within this village is a pretty little Gostilna called Mili Vrh. It doubles €48-58, family rooms €74-92). Breakfast €4 per is a family run house with a delightful terrace, complete with person. PiTJLW green views as far as the eye can see. The food is great, but don’t be shy about asking for off-the-menu local specialties. In fact, Pri Planinskem Orlu this is Mili Vrh’s preferred option, allowing their passion for all Some years ago we got lost trying to take a shortcut through things local to shine through. It even offers a five-day course the mountains in a heavy rain storm and ended up following a where you can learn how to cook local dishes, as well as organ- convoy of cars, which serendipitously led us to this traditional izing tours of the best sights and attractions in the area. A lot of family-run restaurant on the road to Kamniška Bistrica. See- guesthouses in Slovenia come automatically tied to the adjec- ing that the parking lot was packed despite the weather, we tive ‘homely’, but Mili Vrh truly takes the biscuit in this regard. vowed to return in the near future, and when we did so sev- There is even an impromptu gallery of drawings by children eral weeks later, we weren’t disappointed. Popular with hikers, that have stayed there over the years. QŽale 10a, Kamnik, tourists and locals, Pri Planinskem Orlu (or the Mountain Eagle) +386 (0)40 20 16 98, www.gostilna-milivrh.si, gostilna.mili- specialises in local cuisine prepared according to traditional [email protected] recipes, and is especially known for its venison and other game dishes. If you fall in love with the idyllic natural surroundings Pri Cesarju and would like to make a holiday of it, there are several new This charming little guesthouse offers cosy accommodation guest rooms upstairs.QStahovica 20, Stahovica, tel. +386 in the heart of medieval Kamnik, making it a great base for hik- (0)1 83 25 410, [email protected], www.priorlu.si. Open 10:00 - ers in the summer and skiers in the winter, or those who’d like 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. to enjoy a relaxing stay outside of the capital in any season. The large rooms come in several different sizes, all of which Gostilna Repnik boast modern furnishings, refrigerators, LCD televisions and Located in the village of Vrhpolje just a short walk outside lots of wood from floor to ceiling. Two of the rooms also have of Kamnik, Gostilna Repnik is a special, special place. This

www.priorlu.si Tourist Information T: (+386) 01 832 54 10 Kamnik Tourist Information Centre Sitting right in the very centre of Kamnik, the tourist information centre in town is there to provide you with any information we have failed to cover in this guide. A mine of information, the super friendly staff can help with getting around, organising tours or simply picking up souvenirs or event tickets. Free Wi-Fi is also available inside.QGlav- ni trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 831 82 50, tic@kamnik-tourism. si, www.kamnik-tourism.si. Nov to April 10:00 - 18:00, weekends 10:00 - 14:00, April to July 10:00 - 18:00, July to Sept 09:00 - 21:00, Sept to Nov 10:00 - 18:00. Janez Uršič s.p. / Stahovica 20 / 1242 Stahovica

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 79 Around Ljubljana - Kamnik Taste Kamnik

It’s another world. So close.

kamnik-tourism.si

part of the world is famed for hospitality, and Repnik stand tall as one of the places taking this to new heights. The staff are simply beyond excellent, welcoming and passionate about the food they serve without being over- bearing. And the food? Wow. The focus is on traditional Slovene fare in the most genuine of ways, complete with a fine selection of wines to compliment every meal. It has perfected the feel of a family inn in the classiest manner, juxtaposing a formal atmosphere with the comforts of home perfectly. By the way, they also provide romantic horse and carriage rides around the area after your meal. QVrhpolje 186, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)1 839 12 93, info@ gostilna-repnik.si, www.gostilna-repnik.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

Terme Snovik Tucked into the Kamniško-Savinjske Alps not far from the ever- popular Velika Planina and Krvavec ski resorts, Terme Snovik boasts one of the most scenic locations of any spa and wellness centre in the country, and is only a short drive north from Part of the Taste Central Slovenia project, Taste Kamnik is Ljubljana. Their indoor thermal pool is open year-round, and hell-bent on bringing traditional Kamnik food back into the natural healing powers of its magnesium and calcium rich the public mouth, as well as providing a modern day water has been officially recognised by the Slovenian Ministry spin on a number of the dishes. The social diversity of of Health. During the winter you’re apt to find a pick-up hockey Kamnik through the centuries is truly represented with a game taking place on their natural ice rink, and for more ad- number of amusing historical anecdotes to boot. venturous visitors hikes of varying degrees of difficulty and The shepherds of Velika planina provide the most amus- lengths can be arranged in the surrounding countryside. QS- ing of these, with their salty Trnič cheese. Resembling novik 7, Laze v Tuhinju, +386 (0)18 34 41 00, www.terme- a tiny crown or a baby’s hat, they are supposed to re- snovik.si, [email protected] semble the breasts of a woman. It was lonely up in those hills, but the boob cheese was traditionally given from a boy to a girl as a sign of affection. A strange sign of affection we’ll admit, but who doesn’t love tasty cheese? What better way to finish all of this off than with some liquor? Pinecone liquor (rušovc) no less. Combining the shepherding tradition of the region with more modern medicinal herb picking, the pinecone liquor is sweet but not too sweet, strong but not too strong and a genuine joy. They say it is helpful with colds, and that is good enough reason for us. Taste Kamnik is a continually evolving project, meaning the recipes will change and grow as the project moves further forward.

80 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Bled blejski-grad.si. Open 08:00-21:00 Jun-Aug, 08:00-20:00 Apr-Jun & Sep-Nov, 08:00-18:00 Nov-Mar. Admission €9/7/4.50 for adults/students/children, with discounts for groups of 10 or more.

Bled Taxi Bled’s number one taxi service for airport transfers, excursions and longer journeys, the folks at Bled Taxi have more than 15 years experience working with foreign guests and drivers speak both English and German. Prices for the most popular destinations in Slovenia, as well as nearby airports, can be found on their website, while they’re happy to give quotes for return services on day trips elsewhere in the country and the region. A larger Volkswagen and Mercedes van is available for groups of up to eight pas- sengers.Qtel. +386 (0)41 710747, [email protected], www.bled-taxi.si.

Garden Village Resort It’s a point that’s been rammed home to the point of fa- The very definition of picturesque tigue, but Bled is a beautiful place, the hotels are beau- Alp Penzion tiful, everything is beautiful. For somewhere to stand A beautiful family owned pension, gorgeous cornfields out it must truly be special, and we’re still not sure if the with enviable views of the Julian Alps surround Alp Pen- term ‘special’ really does Garden Village Resort justice at sion Bled, with the lake just a 10 minute walk or so away. all. Opening this in the summer of 2014, it’s a romantic’s A great starting point for a whole host of activities, a well- dream. The simple exteriors mask the most stylish in- ness centre also offers the ultimate in relaxation. Five dif- teriors in this dream-like accommodation. Tree houses, ferent saunas are on offer, as well as an outdoor Jacuzzi, a garden restaurant with a small stream dissecting it, it which is always a plus for us. There is also free bicycle rent- even provides a studio apartment with a Jacuzzi in the al for guests, and a restaurant serving both Slovene and in- living room.QCesta Gorenjskega Odreda 16, tel. +386 ternational cuisine.QE-4, Cankarjeva 20a, tel. +386 (0)45 (0)41 61 63 02, [email protected], www. 74 16 14, fax +386 (0)45 74 45 90, bled@alp-penzion. gardenvillagebled.com. com, www.alp-penzion.com. 12 rooms (singles €45-70, doubles €68-98, suites €90-140). TARULG Vila Alice BKW hhhh As far as first impressions go, Vila Alice really couldn’t make a better one. A short walk from the lake and the bus sta- Bled Castle tion, this century old house has been modernised in the The oldest castle in Slovenia as well as the one with argu- most adorable fashion and simply put is one of the pret- ably the most dramatic location, Bled Castle is yet another tiest boutique hotels we’ve come across. Seven spacious iconic feature of this glorious destination. Perched protec- rooms fill the house, with the room named ‘Fire’ being the tively some 120m above the lake, the first written mention standout. The staff is multi-lingual and immensely helpful, of it dates all the way back to 1011, when the German King the breakfast is beautifully varied. Such attention to detail Henry II ceded it to the Bishops of Brixen. It has seen many is to be cherished.QD-2, Prešernova 26, tel. +386 (0)40 changes of ownership since, and has thus become some- 231 303, fax +386 (0)4 574 30 50, [email protected], thing of a huge mish-mash of architectural styles. The www.vila-alice.si. 7 rooms (singles €100, twins €160, walls are Romanesque, where as the majority of the other superior €240). PJHARLBDW buildings making up the castle hail from the Renaissance. The grounds are made up of two courtyards, connected Wellness Essense Bled by a staircase. Lake Bled is possibly the ultimate place for relaxation, and Aside from the predictably gob smacking views on offer, there isn’t a better option to indulge in this than Wellness the castle also has a number of attractions to entice longer Essense Bled. Located in the Penzion Alp guesthouse, visitors, among them a small museum showing the history a traditional Alpine pension itself, a wide range of treat- of Bled from the beginning of time to the present day, a ments are available to suit all desires. Of particular inter- wine cellar, an old printing press, a castle forge, souvenir est is the Hay Sauna, a unique combination of traditional shop and a restaurant. The castle is reached via a fairly sauna and aroma-therapy with the added leisure of the steep 15-minute climb. Forming the most dramatic of countryside. It is a strangely enjoyable experience that backdrops to the life affirming romance of the lake, Bled we wholeheartedly recommend. Reservation is necessary Castle is a must-visit.QC-2, tel. +386 (0)4 572 97 82, fax for all services available.QCankarjeva 20c, tel. +386 (0)4 +386 (0)4 572 97 72, [email protected], www. 5767 450, [email protected], www.essense.si. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 81 Škofja Loka

The mysterious medieval town of Škofja Loka is only a short train or bus ride from Ljubljana, photo by Marko Pleško

One of the oldest settlements in Slovenia, Škofja Loka square, have led the town to be affectionately nicknamed (Slovene for Bishop’s Meadow) is a picture-perfect me- ‘colourful Loka’. Most of the buildings on the square ex- dieval town that is both one of the easiest and most hibit late Gothic architectural elements and were con- rewarding day trips from Ljubljana. The incredibly structed in the early and mid-16th century, as a powerful well-preserved old town is the main attraction here, earthquake in 1511 destroyed nearly everything that had followed by the great museum collection contained in previously been built. the enormous castle ensconced on the hill above. But The most notable individual building is likely Homan the devil is in the details, as seemingly every building, House, which sits at the far north end of the square. The bridge and alleyway in the old town has a story to tell, imposing manor house is actually composed of three sep- and it’s well worth engaging a local guide through the arate buildings, and once counted the painter Ivan Grohar tourist office to provide a more in-depth explanation of as a resident - his work Loka in the Snow captures the view the town’s intriguing history, culture and legends than from one of the upper floor windows. Other points of in- we can fit within the following pages - you can also find terest include a very active cultural centre, a still-working out why the coat-of-arms somewhat bizarrely depicts cinema, several art galleries and of course a so-called an African man wearing a crown! In this section we’ve Plague column built after the last bout of Black Death in also included information on the nearby municipalities 1751 and dedicated to Mother Mary. of Železniki, Gorenja Vas - Poljane and Žiri, which covers the area of the adjacent Poljanska and Selška valleys as Škofja Loka CastLe & MuseuM well as the surrounding hills and mountains. Dominating the town below and visible from the entire surrounding countryside, Loka Castle is not only one of the finest castles in all of Slovenia, but also houses one of the Mestni trg country’s most impressive museum collections. Unlike some other old towns in Slovenia, Škofja Loka’s First officialy mentioned in the early 13th century, it served main square is still the active centre of the city’s social life, as the administrative seat for the vast feudal estates that where even during summer month locals going about were under the domain of the powerful Bishops of Freising their daily business outnumber camera-toting tourists from Bavaria for more than eight centuries. As with the rest such as yourself (and us). This fact, coupled with the co- of the old town, the castle had to be completely restored lourful façades of the buildings facing the long narrow after the great earthquake of 1511, so the current ground 8292 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Škofja Loka plan dates from just after this time. ing of the railway line in the middle of the 19th century, Since 1959 the castle has been the home of the Loka Mu- and was then burnt almost entirely to ground by children seum, which makes great use of the space to present a playing with fire in 1901. collection ranging from history and archeology to ethnol- Nowadays, with only some 1300 people calling the town ogy and natural history to fine arts and local crafts. High- home, there is not an overwhelming amount to see or do lights include artefacts from the Palaeolithic Era, a copy here, but it is probably the best place to organise a guided of the founding deed in which German Emperor Otto II tour of the overgrown bunkers and fortifications that com- granted Loko and the surrounding lands to Freising Bishop prise Rupnik’s Line. There’s also one fine museum dedicated Abraham, scale models of Škofja Loka’s development to photography - the Vlasta Photo Museum - and the Krvi- from the middle ages to modern times, well-presented na Gallery, which exhibits and sells works by both Slovene exhibitions of the town’s early guilds and industries, and and foreign artists. a great collection of modern art in a unique basement- level exhibition space. The panoramic views of the rugged rupnik’s Line snowcapped mountains in the distance, green fields and Of all the lessons learned in the aftermath of The Great War, one forests all around and the old town directly below is worth of the simplest was that employing old military tactics despite the price of admission alone.QGrajska Pot 13, tel. +386 the advent of new technologies directly led to a massive in- (0)4 51 70 400, www.loski-muzej.si. Open 10:00 - 17:00. crease in the number of casualties suffered by both sides - or to Closed Mon. In summer open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 put it another way: charging into machine gun fire and fighting - 16:00. Admission €3/5 or only €4/5.20 with a guide. in muddy trenches for years on end was not a lot of fun. This knowledge, coupled with a pessimistic outlook of a Trgovina ika peaceful future, led many European states to construct fortifi- Ika puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion cations along their borders in the years following the war, and designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a won- the newly formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes was derful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, no exception. jewellery and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs The Treaty of Rapallo had left nearly 1/3 of Slovene territory un- here as a lot of the products represent the Škofja Loka in der the control of Italy in 1920, with the newly created border artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or running just west of Gorenja Vas - Poljane and nearby Žiri. As piece of art, you’ve come to the right place.QMestni Trg the Poljanska Valley was seen as the easiest route to Ljubljana 13, tel. +386 (0)4 512 30 23, www.trgovina-ika.si. Open were there to be another major conflict, the most extensive 09:00 - 12:30, 15:30-19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. fortifications were planned for this area. Although proposals for a series of bunkers, tunnels and nace’s House (naceTova Hiša) large subterranean forts were first discussed in 1926, ac- In 1755, Ignacij Homan - who was known as Nace to his tual construction didn’t commence until 1937 under the neighbours - had his home extensively renovated in the command of General Leon Rupnik, and was supposed to village of Puštal just across the river from Škofja Loka, and have been completed in 1947. since then the house has remained almost unchanged. The pace of construction quickened as war broke out in In fact, it is not only the best preserved Slovene home- other parts of Europe and by early 1941 over 60,000 men stead from this time Škofja Loka, but all of central Slove- (both soldiers and civilians) were working on the project. nia. Although the mid-18th century renovations gave the However, when Axis forces finally invaded on 6 April 1941, exterior an unmistakably Baroque appearance, evidence the work abruptly stopped and the fortifications that had suggests that structure had actually been built some 200 been built were never actually used for military purposes. years early, with rare late Gothic stone detailing in the cel- Today these eerie remnants of darker times in European lar and two still functioning ‘black kitchens’ the most obvi- history can be visited on guided tours, and make for one of ous testament to this. The interior still includes furniture the more interesting experiences to be had in the region. and other personal objects collected by its occupants over the centuries, and is open to the public as a highly authentic ethnographical museum. With advanced reservations, groups can arrange to try a meal prepared in the 400 year- old oven.QPuštal 74, tel. +386 (0)41 756 955/+386 (0)41 769 425, [email protected], www.nacetovahisa. com. Open by appointment only. Admission €2-3.50.

Gorenja Vas - Poljane The central settlement in the Pojanska Valley, Gorenja Vas (which makes up half of the municipality of Gorenja Vas - Poljane) is roughly halfway between Škofja Loka and Žiri. For years it was a popular place to stop on the road from One of the many bunker’s along Rupnik’s line, photo by Denis Vienna to Trieste, but saw much less traffic with the open- Bozovičar facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket AugustAugust - September 2014 8393 Škofja Loka museum, which details its rich historical, cultural and industrial heritage, is reason enough to visit, but the mu- nicipal region also extends high up into the mountains to the idyllic village of Sorica, which was the birthplace of famed Slovene impressionist painter Ivan Grohar.

ŽiRi If Slovenia is situated at the geographical crossroads of Europe - with the Alps, great eastern plains and Mediter- ranean all converging within its borders - and Žiri is at the crossroads of Slovenia, then by our calculation this small town of just under 5000 inhabitants is the unofficial centre of Europe! While this may be a slight exaggeration, Žiri is set in an enviable location in a small basin at the end of the Poljanska Valley, just a short drive away from Škofja Loka to the east, Vrhnika to the south and Idrija to the west. But Žiri wasn’t always in the centre of things, in fact for much of it’s history it has been a border town between the great empires of the east and west - most recently during the period between WWI and WWII, when it was only a couple of kilometres from the border separating Italy and The colourful hills of Dražgoše, photo by Jana Jocif the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. In the years immediately following the Second World War, the borders once again receded and gave Žiri a bit more breathing Železniki room. It was at this time that the town’s most recognisable With some 7000 inhabitants Železniki is the main town company, Alpina, began to grow from a small cooperative of the Selška Valley, and has a long proud history dating of local shoemakers into the international firm that it is back to the middle of the 10th century when the Ger- today. A repeat winner of the prestigious Red Dot award man Emperor donated it to the Bishops of Freisburg. It’s for design, many of Alpina’s award winning models can be not a coincidence that the town’s name is derived from seen in a special exhibit at the city museum. the Slovene word for iron, as Železniki owes its existence to the rich deposits of iron ore in the surrounding hills and the related ironworks industry that dates back nearly 700 years. While the ironworks was shuttered at the beginning of the 20th century, the town’s most recognisable sight is the perfectly preserved smelting furnace that still stands defiantly in the main square - the only remaining structure of its type in Europe and now a protected technical monument. Nowadays Železniki is thriving once again, and is home to several leading Slovenian firms, most notably the furniture maker Alples, and Domel, which manufacturers electronic motors and other components. The town’s

The shoe exhibition at Žiri Museum, photo by Franc Temelj Discover Železniki’s industrial heritage, photo by Jana Jocif 8494 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Maribor

The river Drava straddles Maribor, oozing pure elegance

The second largest city in Slovenia, Maribor deserves much Lent more press than it currently receives. Whilst the proximity There aren’t many better locations in the city than the of it to Ljubljana (it is less than an hour and a half by car) one bestowed upon Hotel Lent. On the banks of the lead many to visit for only a day, the 2012 European Capital Drava in Lent and the shortest of walks from the oldest of Culture has more than enough on offer for longer stays. vine in the world and other main attractions, these 15 The Drava River winds through the town, separating the in- elegantly modern rooms are as welcoming as any other dustrial and commercial area from the patchwork-esque old in Maribor. Two luxury suites are also available for those centre, home to quaint squares, pedestrian streets and the who wish to indulge a little. Customer service is taken oldest vine in the world. very seriously here, ensuring a fine experience for those It may not have the artistic class of the capital, but Maribor who choose Hotel Lent. QD-2, Dravska 9, + 386 (0)59 17 possesses a lively student population that can clearly be 77 00, [email protected], www.hotel-lent.si seen in the quietly throbbing collection of cafes and bars dotted throughout Lent, the oldest part of town. Lent is Ilich Maribor’s jewel, full of great restaurants and historical sights. With a proud tradition dating back to 1909, Ilich is un- Nearby is Pohorje, a must-visit for outdoor junkies. doubtedly one of our favourite cafés in all of Maribor. Soft- ly lit low vaulted ceilings, wonderfully comfortable suede Festival Kulinarike Maribor furniture and a décor containing excerpts from the past, Every Friday at the central market in Maribor we find this the atmosphere here is second to none. It also happens to culinary extravaganza. ‘Eat, Drink, Donate’ is the slogan, and serve some of the best cream cakes we’ve ever had, as well we’d be lying if we said we weren’t fond of all three. Pubs as what was voted the second best ice cream in Europe in and restaurants from all over town take part, showcasing 2012. One of our favourites without doubt.QC-3, Sloven- the diverse food available in Slovenia’s second city. It is also ska 6, tel. +386 (0)2 111 11 11, [email protected], www.ilich.si. an excellent place for would-be chefs and Cassanovas to Open 07:00 - 22:00. PJAGBS pick up new recipes and new ideas to impress. The wine we’ve come to love from the region is also available, as well Kavarnica Rokaj as beers and juice for the kids, and donations to local chari- There really aren’t enough rock-centric bars in Slovenia. ties are encouraged but not assumed. It takes places all day, Kavarnica Rokaj is one of the finest however, somehow so breakfast, lunch or dinner is covered.QVodnikov trg 5, managing to maintain its own identity whilst ticking the tel. +386 (0)41 51 25 34, [email protected], boxes required of such an establishment. Queen, AC/DC, www.facebook.com/festivalkulinarikemaribor. Johnny Cash, The Rolling Stones and many more adorn facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 85 Maribor the walls alongside old vinyl, Jack Daniels memorabilia and discarded guitars. Shots are available from only €1, for those who can take itQUsnjarska ulica 3, tel. +386 (0)31 51 73 69. Open 09:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

Miyabi One of our favourite Asian restaurants in the country, Miyabi offers a wide-ranging choice of authentic Japa- nese cuisine, which in addition to a handful of fresh sushi options also includes various light and flavourful rice, noodle and meat dishes. Whatever you ending up ordering, the mochi ice cream is a must for dessert. The Japanese style doesn’t end with the food, as the interior is fitted out in a minimalist style (black floors, white walls, rice paper accoutrements), and there are even several traditional low wooden tables in the back with grills installed and floor seating on pillows.QF-1, Betnavska 21, tel. +386 (0)2 320 69 38, [email protected], www. miyabi.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. PA

Papagayo Lounge Bar Lent, the oldest and most charming part of Maribor Recently opened in May this year, Papagayo (Spanish for ‘parrot’) is an ultra-trendy lounge bar in the centre pleasant manner, and the seating booths are perfect of town. The usual coffees, teas, beers and wines are for social snacking before embarking on a stroll along on offer, but both the indoor and outdoor seating ex- the river. Burgers, pizzas, various combo-plates and a ude modernity. Already a popular spot for the beauti- variety of healthy options (and much more) is the fare ful people, it is the perfect place to laze away a sunny on offer.QOb Bregu 20, tel. +386 (0)51 37 06 21. Open afternoon in Maribor. Also an excellent nightlife option, 10:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. take your pick from a wide range of cocktails as the (€7-20). PA6BSW party goes on into the early hours at the weekend. Dur- ing the summer Papagayo’s own parrot, Zoja, adds yet Gostilna Poštela more charm to this smashing bar.QGosposka ulica 6, Neatly tucked in at the foothills of Pohorje, Gostilna tel. +386 (0)40 15 44 07. Poštela has been in business since 1979 and both its clientele and reputation have increased steadily ever since. Žajfa Friendly and attentive staff help get everything off to a Just a short throw of a rock from the Judgement Tower good start, but the excellent food and homegrown wine on the banks of the Drava, Žajfa is a throwback to the are the real lures to return. Mushroom soup with buck- American diners of the 1950s with an updated menu. wheat is among the house specialties, as well as a very Neon colouring fills any and all space in a surprisingly impressive horsemeat steak. As well as excellent regional wine, Poštela also grows its own, which is more than worth a taste. The entrance can be found by heading Tourist Information off at Streliška cesta 57.Qtel. +386 (0)2 320 43 03/+386 (0)70 27 73 17, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - Tourist Information Centre Maribor 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. - TIC Maribor The city’s well-stocked tourist information centre is Pri Lešniku the best place to begin a visit to Maribor. The help- Numerous generations of the Lešnik family have helped to ful staff can provide a wealth of information on all make this family-run inn something of a Maribor institu- of the sights both in the city and the surrounding tion for over eighty years. The menu offers a wide variety countryside, and various souvenirs, postcards, books of meat and vegetarian dishes, with the onus placed on and maps are also available for purchase in addition the freshest ingredients, and the hospitality is predict- to free brochures and other handouts. Visitors can ably impressive. The usual selection of quality local wines also arrange walking tours with knowledgeable local is also on offer. A children’s play area and miniature golf guides.QC-3, Partizanska 6a, tel. +386 (0)2 23 46 course offer great post-food activities for all the family. 611, fax +386 (0)2 23 46 613, [email protected], www. QK-3, Dupleška 49, tel. +386 (0)2 471 23 66, gostilna. maribor-pohorje.si. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-19:00, [email protected], www.gostilna-motel-lesnik.si. Open Sat-Sun and holidays 09:00-18:00. 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (€7-16). PTABSW

86 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Maribor

Pharmacies Lekarna Pobrežje QJ-2, Cesta XIV. Divizije 30a, tel. +386 (0)2 480 54 40, lekarna.pobrezje@mb- Lekarna Betnava QEve Lovše 1, tel. +386 (0)2 799 50 lekarne.si, www.mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 66, [email protected], www.mb-lekarne.si. 07:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Lekarna Pri Gradu QC-3, Partizanska 1, tel. Lekarna Center QD-2, Gosposka 12, tel. +386 +386 (0)2 229 45 70, lekarna.pri-gradu@mb-lekarne. (0)2 229 45 30, [email protected], www. si, www.mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. 13:00. Closed Sun. Closed Sun. Lekarna Radvanje QG-2, Pohorska 9, tel. +386 Lekarna Gosposvetska QC-1, Gosposvetska 41, (0)2 614 55 22, [email protected], www. tel. +386 (0)2 250 64 50, fax +386 (0)2 250 64 51, lekarna. mb-lekarne.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. [email protected], www.mb-lekarne.si. Closed Sun. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lekarna Ruše QTrg Vstaje 7b, tel. +386 (0)2 669 Lekarna Kamnica QVrbanska 97, Kamnica, tel. 09 00, [email protected], www.mb-lekarne. +386 (0)2 229 12 25, lekarna.kamnica@mb-lekarne. si. Open Mon-Wed 08:00-17:00, Thur & Fri 08:00-15:00, si, www.mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun and holidays. - 12:00. Closed Sun. Lekarna Šentilj QPod Hribom 14, Šentilj, tel. +386 Lekarna Lenart QMaistrova 22, Lenart, tel. +386 (0)2 650 59 00, [email protected], www.mb- (0)2 729 19 40, [email protected], www. lekarne.si. Open Mon & Thur 11:30-19:30, and Tues, Wed mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. & Fri 07:00-15:00. Closed Sat, Sun & holidays. Closed Sun. Lekarna Studenci QH-2, Kalohova 20, tel. +386 Lekarna Limbuš QLackova 269, Limbuš, tel. +386 (0)2 429 70 46, [email protected], www. (0)2 614 42 60, [email protected], www. mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Fri 07:00 - 15:00, Sat mb-lekarne.si. Open Mon, Thur & Fri 08:00-16:00, Tues 07:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. & Wed 11:30-19:30. Closed Sat, Sun & holidays. Lekarna Tabor QE-3, Ljubljanska 9, tel. +386 (0)2 Lekarna Lovrenc QGornji Trg 22, Lovrenc na 320 79 10, [email protected], www.mb- Pohorju, tel. +386 (0)2 675 20 05, lekarna.lovrenc@mb- lekarne.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. lekarne.si, www.mb-lekarne.si. Open Mon, Wed & Fri Lekarna Tezno QPtujska 95, tel. +386 (0)2 450 30 07:00-14:30, Tues & Thur 12:00-19:30. Closed Sat, Sun 10, [email protected], www.mb-lekarne.si. & holidays. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Lekarna Melje QC-4, Partizanska 39, tel. +386 Lekarna v E.Leclercu QJ-3, Tržaška cesta 67a, (0)2 250 64 10, [email protected], www. tel. +386 (0)2 332 50 97, lekarna.e-leclerc@mb-lekarne. mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. si, www.mb-lekarne.si. Open 08:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:30 - Closed Sun. 15:00. Closed Sun. Lekarna Nova Vas QH-2, Cesta Proletarskih Lekarna v Qlandii QJ-2, Cesta Proletarskih Brigad 71, tel. +386 (0)2 429 29 20, lekarnanova-vas@ Brigad 100, tel. +386 (0)2 420 14 20, lekarna.qlandia@ mb-lekarne.si, www.mb-lekarne.si. Open 07:30 - mb-lekarne.si, www.mb-lekarne.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Idila anyone craving some Russian homecooking. The shop also 5km outside of Maribor at the foothills of Poharje, Restavracija sells Russian memorabilia in the shape of Russian dolls, t-shirts Idila provides a level of comfort that is to be envied. Snacks, and much more, and of course yes, there is caviar. We would lunches, celebrations, catering and much more is on offer, expect nothing lessQDvorakova ulica 10, tel. +386 (0)40 27 with excellent wine and desserts backing the whole thing 78 40. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. up. The ambience is the real winner though, a homely feel that many restaurants strive for but fail to reach. Idila has no Europark such issues, a pleasant experience from start to finishQG-2, Just across the river from the city centre, Europark is the Pohorska 21b, tel. +386 (0)2614 59 00/+386 (0)30 406 049, region’s largest shopping centre with over 120 shops, [email protected], www.restavracijaidila.si. Open 08:00 - restaurants and bars, as well as all the other facilities you 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. (€4-9). PTAILSW would expect from a modern mall. There are plenty of free parking spaces if you’re arriving by car, and for those Čeburaška with children (aged 3-9) there’s even a free Magic World A must for all Russophiles, this little market store on Dvora- to keep the little ones entertained. See Europark’s user- kovo is stocked full of Russian goods. A selection of cognacs, friendly English language website for a full list of shops, vodkas, wines and beers are inside, as well as some good activities and upcoming events.QE-3/4, Pobreška 18, old Soviet champagne, of course. Sweets, sauces and jarred tel. +386 (0)2 320 82 10, [email protected], www. goods are among the rest, providing all the ingredients for europark.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 87 Ptuj

The oldest town in Slovenia, Ptuj is also one of its most unheralded delights

Traditionally a part of the region of Styria, the little Ptuj Castle town of Ptuj lies in northeastern Slovenia, and it just so Reconstructed and rebuilt on so very many occasions, Ptuj happens to have one particularly grand claim to fame; Castle holds a remarkably strong strategic position, guaran- Ptuj is the oldest city in the country. There is evidence teeing control of the vast lands around it to whoever hap- of settlements here as far back as the Stone Age, and pened to control the castle. Of course, these days are long take it from us that was a very long time ago. The first gone, and today in its stead we find a remarkable museum, written mention of the town comes in the year 69AD, which has been the state of play since the end of World War when Vespasian ascended to the roll of Roman Em- Two. The oldest written record of the castle dates to the peror. Obviously the history of Ptuj is long and varied, first half of the 12th century, but there is more than enough incorporating every element of outside influence that evidence to suggest there was a castle here long before. In has hit the entire region. its storied history it has been in the possession of many dif- A European Capital of Culture in 2012, Spring sees the ferent owners, but the museum today shows us examples arrival of the Kurent Carnival, a ten-day fun-packed car- of beautiful castle chambers, as well as some of the finest nival in honour of a supposed ancient god of hedonism, gothic and baroque art we’ve come across. It is undoubt- and strange sheepskin clad figures dominate the town. edly one of the best museums in the country The largest artificial lake in Slovenia also sits nearby. The area is also full of churches, castles, sporting activities, Orpheus Monument monuments, spas and much more, making Ptuj an ex- Continuing with the theme of Ptuj holding all the records cellent destination in every right. It isn’t every day you for age in Slovenia, we find Slovenia’s oldest public monu- get to visit the oldest city in the country after all. ment still in its original location, the Orpheus Monument. Originally a grave marker from the second century, it stands Little Castle (Mali Grad) almost five metres high and has many mythological stories Whilst the main town castle may take all of the plau- carved into it. The naming comes from the relief of Orpheus, dits, its little brother is well worth a visit as well. Also playing his lyre whilst mourning the loss of his one true love. going through many reconstructions and changes We’ve all been there. Most of the reliefs have eroded away, in its history, it was home to the Salzburg bishops as but this is still a very important historical monument in Ptuj. well as many other aristocrats throughout history. Af- ter World War Two it was nationalised, which led to a St Jurij’s Church period of decay, but recent efforts at restoration have The most prominent building on Slovenski trg, rumour has taken place and it is home to one of the most beautiful it that a huge Christian basilica once stood here. It quite ob- libraries in all of Europe. viously doesn’t stand here now, but in its place is a pleasant 88 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Ptuj

Hit the greens and the fairways at Ptuj’s golf course church dating back to the ninth century, although the ma- companied by two lakes. Whether you are a fan of the jority of its current appearance comes from a 15th century sport or not, there aren’t many more relaxing venues gothic overhaul. Pretty enough from the outside, it is the for an afternoon.QMlinska cesta 13, tel. +386 (0)2 788 interior that really delights. Pews from the 18th century, 91 10, [email protected], www.golf-ptuj.si. five side-altars and frescoes taking in all social classes, it is a stunning microcosm of the history of Ptuj. Lake Ptuj An artificial lake on the river Drava created in 1978, Lake Golf Ptuj Ptuj is actually the largest artificial lake in Slovenia, cov- One of the prettiest golf courses in Slovenia, the greens ering 420 hectares. Whilst its primary function is that of and fairways cover over 50 hectares of land and incor- a reservoir for the nearby power plant, fun and games porate elements of Ptuj’s flora and fauna, combining to were always going to spring up on such a site. A popular create a golf course that is very Ptuj indeed. Known for place for rowing and sailing, the lake plays host to many its excellently maintained greens and water obstacles, national and international events, including the National the Studenica stream trundles through the course, ac- Kayak Championships. Marina Ranca, the only land marina in Slovenia, is found here, and Ranca Bar provides visitors with refreshments into the early hours. It is also home to hundreds of endangered bird species.Q.

Terme Ptuj A pleasant 10-minute walk from the centre of town all along the delightful river Drava, Terme Ptuj is another addition to Slovenia’s impressive number of thermal spas just waiting to cure all of your ills. The thermal springs are perfect for ironing out the physical and mental kinks, with them known to have a positive effect on all manner of neurological conditions. A large water park is also on-site for your swimming needs, as well as a wellness centre with themed baths and various types of massag- es available. Three star accommodation rounds it all off. QPot v toplice 9, tel. +386 (0)2 749 41 00, info@terme- Splash, splash and splash ptuj.si, www.terme-ptuj.si. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 89 Ptuj Kurentovanje (Ptuj Carnival) Taking place in Spring and without doubt one of the Interview most important carnivals in all of Slovenia, the Kuren- A Word With the Mayor tovanje truly is a something to behold. We’ve honestly In Your Pocket Slovenia recently had the pleasure of a quick never seen so many strange looking characters in one chat with Štefan Čelan, mayor of Ptuj and two-time Innova- place at one time. The main characters are the Kurent tor of the Year, about Ptuj’s standing in Slovene tourism and themselves, once described as looking as though they the importance of chemical engineering in poltiics. ‘just escaped from hell and made friends with the devil itself’. To us, that is fairly accurate. In an outfit We’re sorry to start with such a question, but to made of sheep skin with horns made of straw and ears people outside of Slovenia Ptuj may look impos- made of turkey (or goose) feathers, these figures stroll sible to pronounce. To put an end to any questions, through the town throughout. To add some clarity to can you tell our readers the correct pronunciation? their peculiarity, the devil himself is responsible for Our city is famous for its exceptional peculiarities, such their smooth procession. Many other strange charac- is its name. Perhaps it is easier to pronounce its ancient ters can be seen, all coming together in one of the Roman name, Poetoviona or medieval title, when it was most entertaining spectacles in all of Slovenia. called Pettau. Anyone who wishes to remember the pronunciation of our city has to come and visit it. And whilst Roman Games at it, a trip to our oldest wine cellar will surely help. At the very end of August, Ptuj steps into its time machine and goes back, way back in time. In fact, Do you think Ptuj deserves a more prominent po- it is fair to say that Ptuj ceases to exist, replaced in- sition on the Slovene tourist map? stead by the ancient Roman settlement and market Unfortunately, the significance of this remarkable nation- of Poetovio. It may be a cliché, but history comes to al cultural jewel is not recognized by many decision mak- life as all are transported back two-thousand years. ers in our country. In Italy, despite the might of Rome and What fills the schedule? Roman parades, ancient Ro- other cities there is great pride in Florence. I believe the man weddings, a children’s camp and much much time is coming when our city will be enshrined into the more of course.Q. consciousness of Europeans at least as deep as Florence.

They may look like they’ve dropped in from outerspace, but the Kurenti take centre stage during Ptuj’s Spring Carnival 90 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Ptuj

What are some of your favourite sights in Ptuj? You also hold a number of patents, as well as the Along with material cultural heritage which is particu- ‘Innovator of the Year’ award on two occasions. Do larly rich from the Bronze Age on, we Ptuj residents you still have the time to invent and innovate? are proud of our intangible cultural heritage. The Anyone who has ever committed himself or herself to famous kurentovanje with its central ethnographic science never gives up on it. Therefore, every free min- characters - the kurenti - represent the largest public ute I spend on creative thinking. I am glad that I, along cultural event. Kurent rituals hide at their most fun- with co-workers at the Central School Ptuj, managed damental level a positive inner power, which affects to develop a study program in Bionics and last year to a change in individual and collective consciousness. enrol the first generation of students. This is the first of The communicative value of Kurent rituals is connect- its kind higher learning studies program in Slovenia. Of ed with a holistic understanding of the role of man the many definitions of what bionics is, for me the one in the micro and macro cosmos, where at the most that comes closest is the saying that bionics can help us fundamental level, everything is interconnected. The when it comes to more comprehensive consideration meaning of life is not unscrupulous accumulation of about how God thought as he created. I teach about material wealth, but rather in coexistence with flora, balanced development, which must be based on eth- fauna, fellow human beings and the Universe. ics, social and environmental sustainability as well as modified postulates of economics. You yourself have a background in chemical engineering. Was there anything from this area of edu- When (or maybe that should be ‘if’) you do get cation, as well as your working experience, that you some time off, what is it that you like to do? feel has helped you make the transition into politics? For my third age years I already have work planned out My studies in chemical engineering help me a lot in life, you for at least fifteen years. I have to write about twenty know, virtually everything around us is related to chemistry. books. My hidden talent is artistic creativity. I plan on When you look at the structure of the atom you quickly see painting seven opuses. Even now I set aside a lot of that the material world is only a concentrated form of en- time to study philosophy, metaphysics, epigenetics ergy and that everything is permeated with consciousness. and spirituality. As a mystical creature, I believe that I These findings lead you to the awareness that the spiritual will be very devout in studying consciousness as this and mental worlds are more important than the material. If offers the greatest development opportunities for hu- you transfer this to politics then you understand why it is manity and all of creation. Q necessary to serve the people and not to rule. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 91 Postojna modation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. The family-run place also includes billiards, a football pitch and a swimming pool among other amenities, while a full wellness and medical treatment centre rounds out the offer. All in all, it’s a great place for cyclists, campers and other budget travellers to break their journeys on the way to or from the coast.QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@siol. net, www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper). iT6FLEKDCwW

Kras This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and near several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and drinks at night. Kras offers everything you would expect from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast Proteus restaurant, Postojna and very friendly staff.QTržaška 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one 24 rooms, 3 suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none suites €121-141). are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript Hotel Casino Safir settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t Located in the town of Sežana, a stone’s throw from the even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the modern it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers. Rooms of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened offer all the modern comforts, whilst if you’re lucky in the to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is casino we suggest upgrading to a superior suit with Ja- said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over cuzzi. Even if you’re not looking to win money, the hotel is the past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro- actually a very good base for exploring some of the beau- Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened. tiful villages and natural sights nearby, while Trieste is less If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with an- than 10km away.QPartizanska 149, Sežana, tel. +386 other popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnifi- (0)5 731 44 44, [email protected], www.safir.si. 51 rooms cent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the north- (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, suites €121-141). west of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s Proteus Apartments not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop In heart of Postojna, only 500m from the entrance to the another tourist cave and is also associated with several world famous Postojna Cave, you can find this restaurant fascinating legends. named for the underground world’s most famous resi- While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just dent, the Proteus Anguinus, or so-called Human Fish. For to see one or both of its star attractions, with three prop- those staying in town overnight, accommodation facilities er hotels and many other guesthouses and private ac- have recently been added above the restaurant. All rooms commodation options located in and around the town, it and apartments are modernly and well-furnished, and the makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia latter also include a kitchen.QJamska 30, tel. +386 (0)5 as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adri- 7000 103, [email protected]. 3 rooms and 6 atic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Posto- apartments. jna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively). where to eat where to stay Avio Pub Mirjam Penzion, Camp & Wellness Found just off the runway at Postojna’s small recre- Set just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique natural ational airport, there’s a large garden out back where sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the diners can watch the planes take off and land - many Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget accom- of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. De- 92 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Postojna spite the name, this place is a full-fledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to per- fection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar. From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, [email protected], www.aviopub. si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:00- 23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS

Kantina Pivka Maybe it is a sign that we do live in a more peaceful world that things such as this Military History Park and subsequent military canteen can be so very enjoyable. The park itself contains an extensive collection of all things military, including tank-artillery and various aircraft. The canteen gives you the chance to eat in a pseudo-military setting, although with much more enjoyable food and no chance of being sent off at a moments notice to get blown up.QKolodvorksa cesta 51, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)41 74 05 31, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.

Proteus Restaurant After a day spent exploring Postojna’s famous cave and other sights, treat yourself to a first-class meal at the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the region, the restaurant combines the traditional and modern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant interior. Tables are separated by curtains of fine white string, which are meant to resemble the geological formations found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, info@postojnska- jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu. around Dolenčevi Tourist Farm Slovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many families still growing their own veggies and producing homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to experience this strong connection to the land and taste the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food at Dolenčevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna and Škocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajevče 8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, [email protected], www. dolencevi.si. From €20/person, €24 with breakfast, €34 with half-board. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 93 Postojna Postojna CAVE Predjama Castle (Predjamski Grad) Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s fin- POSTOJNSKA GROTTE est castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respec- HÖHLE tively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia JAMA sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable. This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather profi- cient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of gal- betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed leries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt sev- a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through eral times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky lit- has remained virtually unchanged to this day. tle narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a mu- or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so seum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, Visit the Queen visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties. Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly the legendary cave below the castle, although some climb- explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist at- ing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, of all Caves traction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, [email protected], www. electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov Admire the splendour of the largest cave technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself. to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and 10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, in Europe aboard the unique cave train stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00. can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama. eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at 10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00.

94 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Postojna

CAVE POSTOJNSKA GROTTE JAMA HÖHLE

Visit the Queen of all Caves Admire the splendour of the largest cave in Europe aboard the unique cave train

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 95 A znaki v razliËnih jezikih / barvni

try, all of which are within a relatively short distance leaving the country.QKranjčeva 12, Moravske Toplice, of Ljubljana. They offer a diverse range of facilities and tel. +386 (0)25 12 22 00, fax +386 (0)25 48 16 07, info@ are a great way to spend your whole vacation, a long terme3000.si, www.terme3000.si. Programme in JUNE is dedicated to »MONTH OF THE BATTLE OF NICOPOLIS« weekend, a day-long excursion, or even just a few hours, In the year 1396, Hermann II., count of Celje, rescued Sigismund of Luxemburg. Showing his gratitude, whether you’re young, old, have kids or are a young cou- Terme ČaTež Sigismund promised Hermann II. the right to marry his rstborn daughter. Old Castle Celje o ers you the ple. In any case, you will be following in well-trodden Located in Southeastern Slovenia near the town of Brežice, unique opportunity to see the preparations for this important battle. footsteps, as Slovenia’s thermal springs have been at- Terme Čatež is a well-known wellness, business and rec- tracting visitors since Roman times, with more organ- reational centre, featuring one of the Slovenia’s most im- Activities: medieval workshops at camp, Fencing tournament for adults and kids, culinary and costume ised development and infrastructure already being built pressive water parks, which includes the largest indoor workshops, workshops for children – make your own crown! some four centuries ago. We’ve included a selection of thermal pool with over 2300m² of surface area. In Decem- spas on the following pages, but for much more info ber they also open a large ice skating rink, accompanied

you can visit the official Slovenian Spas website at www. of course by stands selling mulled wine, hot chocolate Programme in JULY is dedicated to Barbara of Celje. She was 9 years old when she was engaged to slovenia-terme.si. and other sweets, as well as music. Many special holiday Sigismund of Luxemburg; it was the year 1401. Her mother, Catherine of Celje, organised big preparations for packages are available over the Christmas and New Year the wedding reception and education for the castle’s Chambermaids regarding womanly secrets and intimacy. Terme 3000 period, with significant family discounts - check their site This sprawling complex of swimming pools truly offers ev- for the most up-to-date offers.QTopliška 35, Čatež ob ACTIVITIES within LIVING HISTORY programme on Saturdays & Sundays: ery type of water fun. The highlight of the spa is its natural Savi, tel. +386 (0)74 93 50 00, fax +386 (0)74 93 50 05, • Tournaments – Archery, Fencing, Dancning & Music,… at Castle Central Courtyard “black” water, which is a blistering 72 degrees Celsius at the [email protected], www.terme-catez.si. Daily tickets • Medieval workshops at Medieval Camp – costume and culinary workshops. Visitors will have the source but thankfully cools down to a tolerable 34 degrees for the Winter Thermal Riviera are €12/15 for children/ A story about healthy living opportuni ty to make princesses, knights, little crowns, swords and shields. in the pools. If the black water isn’t hot enough for you, adults with discounts available depending on the time • Castle tour with Knight check out the saunas or solarium. Not the most stylish or and day. Accommodation at one of the complex’s three modern spa in Slovenia, but Terme 3000 still creates a fun, hotels or 400 apartments ranges from €57 - 100 per There is a long tradition of Slovenian spas that has been taking care of your health. family atmosphere. Catering mostly to German-speaking night. Slides and water as far as the eye can see Please check detailed programme on www.grad-celje.com The decision for a healthy lifestyle waits for you in more than 15 resorts throughout Slovenia. TIC OLD CASTLE CELJE, Cesta na grad 78, 3000 Celje, Tel. 00386 3 5443690, open daily from 9.00 to 21.00 96 Ljubljanafacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket In Your Pocket Augustljubljana.inyourpocket.com - September 2014 111 112 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

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Slovenian Spas Slovenian Spas Slovenian Spas TERME LENDAVA or to make an online booking.QZdraviliška 34, tel. It may be a small resort, but Terme Lendava manages +386 (0)3 829 70 00/+386 (0)3 829 78 36, info@terme- to fi t a lot of things within. Accommodation exists for olimia.com, www.terme-olimia.com. all tastes, be it a hotel, apartment village or even a More on healthy living at: campsite. There is an Olympic sized swimming pool TERME PTUJ www.slovenia-terme.si with separate area for children, and a water part that Conveniently situated, with a view of a river and the oldest screams recreation. Surrounded by the vineyards of town in Slovenia, Ptuj, this spa and wellness center is suit- Lendavske gorice (which produce some exquisite wine) ably well equipped. Escape, relax, unwind and refresh in we fi nd walking and cycling trails of varying diffi culty. it’s swimming and massage pools, jacuzzis and little sauna Truthfully though, it is the healing qualities that bring village. It attracts locals and foreigners all year round, de- in the guests, in particular the paraffi n water, which has spite being relatively compact in the winter, when the large proven benefi cial eff ects on musculoskeletal system outdoor adventure waterpark (with the biggest water-slide disorders. The resort also has a track record of helping in Slovenia) is closed. Indoors it may not have the most opu- with rheumatic diseases. Not bad for a small resort in lent surroundings, but you do still get the immensely com- Northeastern Slovenia.Qtel. 080 35 33, info@terme- fortable lounge chairs and it is great value: €13 per adult for lendava.si, www.terme-lendava.si. the day, including sauna entrance.QPot v Toplice 9, Ptuj, tel. +386 02 74 94 100, [email protected], www.terme- TERME OLIMIA ptuj.si. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Nestled along the meandering Sotla river that divides Sun 08:00 - 22:00. €13 adults. €7 children. LIVING Slovenia from neighbouring Croatia in the far east of the country, Terme Olimia may not be the easiest spa TERME ZREČE to get to from Ljubljana, but it is undoubtedly one of Going by the imaginative name of Idila, the wellness cen- HISTORY Slovenia’s most popular - in fact, it was the top fi nisher tre in Terme Zreče is unsurprisingly idyllic. Bringing various in our Best Spas Poll for 2012. One look at both the fa- kinds of far-eastern therapy to Slovenia, you can choose at the OLD CASTLE CELJE cilities and the picturesque surroundings and it’s not from such delights as Thai massage with herbs and/or oils, Welcome to our castle where you can experience life in medieval ages! diffi cult to see why - diff erent accommodation options Sawaddee massage, Ayodhaya, Hanakasumi or Ayurveda. On Saturdays and Sundays visitors can meet di erent characters from the great history of the Counts of Celje! radiate out from the pools, spas, wellness centres and That being the fi rst program, the second comprises a series water parks that have been built up around the natural of enticingly named treats for two; ladies shall undoubt- thermal spring over the preceding decades. The newest edly melt upon sight of a ‘Divine Bath’ or at the thought of part of the complex, the Orhidelia Wellness centre, was ‘Chocolate Dream Luxury’ (they also host weddings). Not Whether you see it as a serious sport or an afternoon stroll, golf is seriously relaxing exercise one of the fi nalists in the World Architecture Festival in content with how you look? The ‘Water Lily Pampering’ or 2009, and that same year the nearby village of Olimje ‘Green Coff ee & Firm Skin’ are a couple of the many beauty An abundance of natural thermal springs, coupled with tourists, most information is only in that language, but the was names as the most beautiful village in all of Europe. off erings here.QCesta na Roglo 15, Zreče, tel. +386 (0)3 the beneficial effects of sea and mountain climates have staff will do their best to make you feel at home. Located See their multi-lingual website for more information on 75 76 000, fax +386 (0)3 57 62 446, [email protected], made Slovenia a top destination for spa tourism in Eu- about 200km east of Ljubljana in the Prekmurje region, accommodation, package off ers and admission prices, www.terme-zrece.eu. rope, with a total of 15 natural spas located in the coun- it about as far as you can get from the capital without try, all of which are within a relatively short distance leaving the country.QKranjčeva 12, Moravske Toplice, of Ljubljana. They offer a diverse range of facilities and tel. +386 (0)25 12 22 00, fax +386 (0)25 48 16 07, info@ are a great way to spend your whole vacation, a long terme3000.si, www.terme3000.si. Programme in JUNE is dedicated to »MONTH OF THE BATTLE OF NICOPOLIS« weekend, a day-long excursion, or even just a few hours, In the year 1396, Hermann II., count of Celje, rescued Sigismund of Luxemburg. Showing his gratitude, whether you’re young, old, have kids or are a young cou- Terme ČaTež Sigismund promised Hermann II. the right to marry his rstborn daughter. Old Castle Celje o ers you the ple. In any case, you will be following in well-trodden Located in Southeastern Slovenia near the town of Brežice, unique opportunity to see the preparations for this important battle. footsteps, as Slovenia’s thermal springs have been at- Terme Čatež is a well-known wellness, business and rec- tracting visitors since Roman times, with more organ- reational centre, featuring one of the Slovenia’s most im- Activities: medieval workshops at camp, Fencing tournament for adults and kids, culinary and costume ised development and infrastructure already being built pressive water parks, which includes the largest indoor workshops, workshops for children – make your own crown! some four centuries ago. We’ve included a selection of thermal pool with over 2300m² of surface area. In Decem- spas on the following pages, but for much more info ber they also open a large ice skating rink, accompanied you can visit the official Slovenian Spas website at www. of course by stands selling mulled wine, hot chocolate Programme in JULY is dedicated to Barbara of Celje. She was 9 years old when she was engaged to slovenia-terme.si. and other sweets, as well as music. Many special holiday Sigismund of Luxemburg; it was the year 1401. Her mother, Catherine of Celje, organised big preparations for packages are available over the Christmas and New Year the wedding reception and education for the castle’s Chambermaids regarding womanly secrets and intimacy. Terme 3000 period, with significant family discounts - check their site This sprawling complex of swimming pools truly offers ev- for the most up-to-date offers.QTopliška 35, Čatež ob ACTIVITIES within LIVING HISTORY programme on Saturdays & Sundays: ery type of water fun. The highlight of the spa is its natural Savi, tel. +386 (0)74 93 50 00, fax +386 (0)74 93 50 05, • Tournaments – Archery, Fencing, Dancning & Music,… at Castle Central Courtyard “black” water, which is a blistering 72 degrees Celsius at the [email protected], www.terme-catez.si. Daily tickets • Medieval workshops at Medieval Camp – costume and culinary workshops. Visitors will have the source but thankfully cools down to a tolerable 34 degrees for the Winter Thermal Riviera are €12/15 for children/ A story about healthy living opportuni ty to make princesses, knights, little crowns, swords and shields. in the pools. If the black water isn’t hot enough for you, adults with discounts available depending on the time • Castle tour with Knight check out the saunas or solarium. Not the most stylish or and day. Accommodation at one of the complex’s three modern spa in Slovenia, but Terme 3000 still creates a fun, hotels or 400 apartments ranges from €57 - 100 per There is a long tradition of Slovenian spas that has been taking care of your health. family atmosphere. Catering mostly to German-speaking night. Slides and water as far as the eye can see Please check detailed programme on www.grad-celje.com The decision for a healthy lifestyle waits for you in more than 15 resorts throughout Slovenia. TIC OLD CASTLE CELJE, Cesta na grad 78, 3000 Celje, Tel. 00386 3 5443690, open daily from 9.00 to 21.00 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 111 112 Ljubljana facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket In Your Pocket Augustljubljana.inyourpocket.com - September 2014 97

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More on healthy living at: www.slovenia-terme.si

A story about healthy living

There is a long tradition of Slovenian spas that has been taking care of your health. The decision for a healthy lifestyle waits for you in more than 15 resorts throughout Slovenia.

SSNZ_oglas_in_your_pocket_143x210.indd 1 19. 05. 14 15:25 A znaki v razliËnih jezikih / barvni

Directory Express Mail Pharmacies DHL Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) More on healthy living at: QŠpruha 19, Trzin, tel. +386 (0)1588 78 00, si.info@dhl. QD-3, Prešernov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. www.slovenia-terme.si com, www.dhl.si. Open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. [email protected], www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 1.5.-15.9. open Kurirček Mon.Fri 07:30-20:00. Qtel. +386 (0)80 1881/+386 (0)51 44 45 55, narocila@ kurircek.si, www.kurircek.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Lekarna Ljubljana (Lekarna pri po- Sat, Sun. likliniki) QF-2, Prisojna 7, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. Hospitals & Clinics [email protected], www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 24hrs. Barsos-MC Lekarna Miklošič QB/C-4, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. +386 (0)12 42 07 00, fax QD-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. +386 (0)1 242 07 44, www.barsos.net. Open 08:00 - [email protected], www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Health Centre Metelkova QF-2, Metelkova 9, tel. +386 (0)1472 37 00, fax +386 Shoe repair (0)1472 38 90, [email protected], www.zd-lj.si. Aleš Cevljar We can’t honestly say we know much about the art of mend- Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna Dolina ing shoes, but we’ve been going to this guy for years now and QJ-4, Rožna Dolina IV/45, tel. +386 (0)1477 94 00, info@ he’s never let us down. He also charges so little that we almost kirurski-sanatorij.si, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si. feel guilty. Definitely recommended!QE-2, Barvarska Steza 5, tel. +386 (0)40 241 282, [email protected]. Open University Medical Centre Ljubljana 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QF/G-2, Zaloška 2, tel. +386 (0)1522 50 50, info@kclj. si, www.kclj.si. Translators Alkemist Libraries QJ-2, Obirska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 514 16 78, info@alkemist. City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) si, www.alkemist.si. The regional library for central Slovenia is the most popular library in the country, and has a wide range of English Kibord literature.QC-2, Kersnikova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 600 13 00, Kibord employs a dynamic young team of translators, [email protected], www.mklj.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue interpreters and proofreaders, who are fast, reliable and 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. most importantly accurate - which is why they are our company of choice when we need translation for our guides. Extras include bulk discounts for larger orders and Mobile Phones first-time customers, free binding for students and a gen- Debitel erally creative approach to problem solving difficult jobs. QŽelezna cesta 18, tel. +386 (0)1306 01 00, center@ Translation to and from more than a dozen languages debitel.si, www.debitel.si. are regularly offered, and if you need something more obscure they can do that too with some advance notice. Mobitel QStranska Vas 17b, Dobrova pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 QD-1, Vilharjeva 25, tel. +386 (0)1472 23 20, info@ (0)40 747 447, [email protected], www.kibord.si. mobitel.si, www.mobitel.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. HAIR SALONS Tušmobil ROKSALON QJ-2, Brnčičeva 49, tel. +386 (0)80 700 700, www. QStari Trg 4, tel +386 (0)59 92 18 26, info@roksalon. tusmobil.si. si, www.roksalon.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A story about healthy living Vodafone Simobil STEVO QB-3, Prešernov Trg, tel. +386 (0)1426 71 02, info@ QTrubarjeva 44, tel +386 (0)1 431 51 38, stevo@siol. simobil.si, www.simobil.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat net, www.stevo.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - There is a long tradition of Slovenian spas that has been taking care of your health. 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 14:00. Closed Sun. The decision for a healthy lifestyle waits for you in more than 15 resorts throughout Slovenia. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket August - September 2014 99

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