In the Footsteps of St. Paul of the Cross in Rome A Passionist Pilgrim’s Guide Lawrence Rywalt, C.P. Cum permissu: Joachim Rego, C.P. Superior General 1st printing June 2017 Graphics: Andrea Marzolla Cover photograph: Statue of St. Paul of the Cross, St. Peter’s Basilica Congregation of the Passion of Jesus Christ In the Footsteps of St. Paul of the Cross in Rome A Passionist Pilgrim’s Guide Lawrence Rywalt, C.P. Curia Generalizia dei Passionisti, P.zza SS. Giovanni e Paolo 13 00184 Roma (RM) Table of Contents Introduction Casa mia! Casa mia! 5 Itinerary 1: The Celio Hill 1.1 The Basilica and Monastery of Sts. John and Paul 7 1.2 The Basilica of Santa Maria in Domnica (the “Navicella”) 10 1.3 The Hospice of the Most Holy Crucifix 12 1.4 The Basilica of St. John Lateran 15 Itinerary 2: The Esquiline Hill and the district of the “Monti” (hills) 2.1 The Basilica of St. Mary Major 17 2.2 The Church of the “Madonna ai Monti” 19 Itinerary 3: The Trastevere district 3.1 The Tiberina Island and the Church and the College of St. Bartholomew 21 3.2 The Hospital of San Gallicano 23 3.3 The Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere 28 Itinerary 4: The Lungotevere district and the Vatican 4.1 The “Ponte Sisto” Bridge and Hospice and Pilgrims’ Church of the Most Holy Trinity (SS. Trinità dei Pellegrini) 30 4.2 The Church of San Giovanni dei Fiorentini 33 4.3 St. Peter’s Basilica -- the Canons’ Chapel of the Immaculate Conception (“l’Immacolata” / dei Canonici) and the Statue of St. Paul of the Cross 36 Itinerary 5: The Quirinale Hill and Montecitorio 5.1 The Palace of the Quirinale 39 5.2 The Church of Sant’Andrea on the Quirinale Hill 43 5.3 Montecitorio Hill and the Pious House of the Mission 46 Appendix St. Paul of the Cross in Rome - Biographical Timeline 49 Map of Itineraries 50 4 Introduction “CASA MIA! CASA MIA!” Basilica of Sts. John and Paul on the Celio. In December 1744, St. Paul of the the Retreat of Sts. John and Paul. During Cross and Fr. Thomas Struzzieri, were trav- these years, he met with Popes, Cardinals, eling to the Scala Santa in Rome. As they bishops, lay benefactors and his fellow re- were ascending the Clivo di Scauro, next ligious. Some of these meetings bore many to the Basilica of Sts. John and Paul, the spiritual and temporal benefits, while others beautiful bell tower, the church and the were sources of disappointment and trials. monastery came into view. Paul asked his Here in the diocese of Rome, Paul and companion if he knew anything about these his brother John Baptist were ordained dea- buildings. When he was told the name of the church, he suddenly became deeply cons and priests. They would have their first experience of living religious life and doing moved, and exclaimed, “Casa mia! Casa corporate ministry. He celebrated Mass and mia! Qui ho da venir a star io!” (My home! preached missions in various churches. Fi- My home! This is where I need to be!”) Years nally, in 1867 he was canonized in the same later, this indeed would be Paul’s home, his Basilica in which he was ordained in 1727. last earthly dwelling, and the fulfillment of his dreams of a retreat for his religious in the This guide was prepared as a pilgrim’s Eternal City. For over fifty years, from 1723 guide for our Passionist religious and the until 1775, whenever he would visit Rome, members of the Passionist Family who Paul stayed in many different places, that would like to walk in the footsteps of St. included the private homes of benefactors, Paul of the Cross in this city. Hopefully it the Pilgrim Hospice of the Most Holy Trinity, will serve not only as a means of learning the Hospice of the Holy Crucifix and finally more about the life of our Founder, but also 5 Introduction as a spiritual guide for growing in deeper awareness of the charism of the Passion of Jesus. Fifteen sites or “stations” are grouped geographically into five itinerar- ies. The user may want to select an itiner- ary to visit in the course of a morning or an afternoon. It would be good for pilgrims to Rome to remember that most churches are open only in the early morning until noon- time, and then again in the late afternoon. Unfortunately, some of the sites can only be viewed from the exterior since there is no admittance to the general public. The text of each site is divided into three parts: (1) the general history of the place; (2) the lo- cale’s importance in Passionist history; and Passionist piligrimage in Rome (3) a short prayer that may serve for spiritual inspiration. As resources for further study and to acknowledge some of the resources that chim Rego, Superior General and his Coun- were used to compile this pilgrim’s guide cil for their encouragement and permission book, I would like to note the following to publish this work. - works. Some exist in the three major lan May this pilgrim’s guide help all of guages of the Congregation (Italian, Span- us to feel a little more “at home” in Paul ish and English), while others can only be of the Cross’ Rome, and in particular, at read in English or Italian—(1) “San Paolo the Generalate of Sts. John and Paul, the - della Croce”, Fr. Enrico Zoffoli’s three-vol “casa mia” that our Founder chose for his - ume classic text that consists of a biogra religious and for those who wish to share in phy of St. Paul of the Cross, his spirituality the Passionist charism. May the Passion of and the beginnings of the Congregation Jesus Christ be always in our hearts! [Italian only, 1962]; “As a Seal Upon Your Heart”, Fr. Paul Francis Spencer, CP, “easy-reading” English language life of St. Fr. Lawrence Rywalt Paul of the Cross; and Fr. Fabiano Giorgi- ni’s, “The Congregation of the Passion” (A brief history), in Spanish, Italian and En- glish. Giorgini’s original text was published in 1988, and revised and re-printed in 2006. I wish to thank Fr. Paul Francis Spen- cer for his inspiration and guidance in the preparation of this guidebook, and Fr. Joa- 6 1.1 Itinerary 1 THE BASILICA OF STS. JOHN AND PAUL ON THE CELIO HILL AND THE GENERALATE OF THE PASSIONISTS (also San Tommaso in Formis*) Historical Information The Basilica that was entrusted to the (chapel) was created from the façade of Passionists was built over the houses of the basilica over the portico. At that time, Sts. John and Paul martyrs, martyred in 362 the community passed at least six times during the reign of Emperor Julian the apos- a day before the Founder’s room to go to tate. The Church was built by the roman choir. The Founder was staying in this room, Senator Pammachius and was completed where he would eventually die, because he ca. 392 A.D. could no longer walk and it would have The oldest part of the current monas- been difficult for him to climb the stairs to - tery that the Passionists were given in 1773, the first floor where the rooms of the reli gious were located. In front of the Founder’s located in the area near the room used by room there were two rooms where two reli- St. Paul of the Cross, dates back to the 8th gious resided. century. The Passionists found the wing of the building near the front door and the adjoining corridor leading to the refectory, Passionist History which at that time ended at the present re- St Paul of the Cross wanted a house in fectory of the retreat house. There was no Rome as a sign of ecclesial unity, and also 3rd floor of rooms. The community choir to facilitate official relations with the Holy 7 1.1 Itinerary 1 Interior of the Basilica of Sts. John and Paul See. In 1747, it seemed that the possibility tunities for their pastoral activities. Through of acquiring the Church of San Tommaso in the firm insistence of Pope Clement XIV, an Formis * in the Villa Celimontana with the agreement was made with the Vincentians adjoining former monastery of the Trinitari- and on 7 December 1773, they left the mon- ans was successfully concluded. However, astery on the Celio and several Passionists the opposition of the Canons of St. Peter, privately took possession of the complex. who had the rights to that building, negated On the afternoon of 9 December 1773, the the transaction. whole community, together with Paul of the Cross processed from the Hospice of the Instead, on 9 January 1767, St. Paul of the Cross took possession of a small house Holy Crucifix to Sts. John and Paul. They sang the “Te Deum” in the basilica before along the Via San Giovanni which was pur- the Blessed Sacrament and the religious im- chased from the Jesuits (see site 1.3). There mediately began their schedule of daytime was room here for only seven to nine reli- and nighttime prayer for the Church. gious. On 21 July 1773 the Society of Jesus The Words of St. Paul of the Cross (Jesuits) was suppressed by the Holy See and on 9 August 1773 a Commission of car- From the Letter dinals was established to oversee the dis- to Pope Clement XIV (10) 382-1773 bursement of their assets.