The Best of Ethiopia

Naturetrek Tour Report 11 - 29 October 2019

Geladas by Tessa Needham Speckled Mousebird by Julie Marshall

Leopard Tortoise by Mike Sarre Pied Kingfishers Pied Kingfishers by Charles Kimse y

Report by Richard Bashford Images courtesy of Tessa Needham, Julie Marshall, Mike Sarre & Pied Kingfishers Charles Kimsey

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report The Best of Ethiopia

Tour participants: Richard Bashford (Leader), Ashenafi Sileshi (local guide) with 12 Naturetrek clients

Day 1 Friday 11th October

Our tour started for eight of us boarding the evening flight from London’s Heathrow Airport and arriving in Addis Ababa at 6.45am on Saturday.

Day 2 Saturday 12th October

Arrival in Addis Ababa, Ghion Hotel grounds, flight to Bahir Dar, Tana Hotel grounds Addis Ababa airport was thankfully, very easy to navigate – we’d all arranged our visas and so after a few minutes queuing, we were changing money just as Norma and Steve met us, having arrived on a slightly earlier Manchester flight. We met Ashenafi just where we expected to see him and drove into the remarkably traffic-free city to the Ghion Hotel where the final three tour participants were waiting for us following a bit of pre-tour tourism. Breakfast was served in the hotel – a very welcome spot of relaxation. We managed to spend about one hour in the grounds of the hotel, seeing far too much, quite frankly! In the trees by the doorway, Ashenfi spotted White-backed Black Tit, Montane White-eye, followed by Speckled Mousebirds, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Mountain Thrush and then Brown-rumped Seedeater – our first endemic. Our second was next – Wattled Ibis. Here too we saw Ruppell’s Robin-Chat and the gorgeous Blue-breasted Bee-eater.

But we had a plane to catch and an unknown traffic situation. Back on board the bus, we zoomed to the domestic terminal in just seven minutes, enjoying two security checks before catching our delayed flight to Bahir Dar; we arrived 30 minutes late, but this did not affect our plans. Peter’s ringing skills came in handy in the terminal, as he was able to pick up an African Silverbill and release it outside. We then drove the short distance to our hotel, checked in and ate lunch, possibly the biggest portions ever, before having a short breather.

Our optional afternoon excursion was well supported despite our long day thus far. We drove to the approach road to the Tana Hotel, walking into the grounds. It was a slow walk – starting off with stunning Yellow- crowned Bishops, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Striped Kingfisher, Black-winged Lovebird, African Citril and Swainson’s Sparrow. We’d hardly walked any distance by this stage, but eventually made it into the hotel grounds where we saw a fine Woodland Kingfisher and eventually managed great views of the bizarre Double-toothed Barbet. Two Eastern Grey Plantain-eaters entertained us, spooking a perched Klaas’s Cuckoo. Here we noted more familiar species such as Spotted Flycatcher, Blackcap and Whitethroat, next to the far more exotic Red- cheeked Cordon-bleu. Finally, we saw Black Crakes near the lake edge and found a Black-headed Batis and an Eastern Grey Woodpecker. Phew! We’d been a little cheeky perhaps walking around the grounds, so we booked tomorrow’s lunch with them by way of a thank you.

Back at our hotel, we refreshed ourselves before the checklist and dinner, none of us hanging around too long before retiring to our rooms for some proper sleep.

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Day 3 Sunday 13th October

Blue Nile Falls circuit, Boat trip Lake Tana, Zege Peninsula and Ura Kidane Mehret church We were up promptly to make the best of the day – we were still new to the country and driving even short distances would provide us with many stops for wildlife. We left the hotel at 7.30am and headed towards the Blue Nile Falls. We had a few roadside stops to have a good look at White-backed and Hooded Vultures. We stopped a little further on to look at a stunning Pin-tailed Whydah, noting the supporting cast of Red-rumped Swallow, Copper Sunbird and some fly-over White-faced Ducks. A little further on still, we saw a Blue-headed Coucal, a Giant Kingfisher, which kindly landed next to us, and our first Hemphrich’s Hornbills. We then left the tarmac entering into the hustle and bustle of rural Ethiopian life down a bumpy road. There was so much to look at but heading into more open country, we found a magnificent Saddle-billed Stork sitting in a field, a Mocking Cliff Chat on a roadside building, Grey-backed and Northern Fiscal. Our first mammal was next, with three Olive Baboons, then African Openbill storks and a well-camouflaged Squacco Heron which Diane found. The were many more excellent sightings but we eventually made it to the start of our walk to the Blue Nile Falls. There were rather too many people trying to help us, but it soon became clear, we had a guide and knew where we were going.

The walk itself was through some stunning volcanic countryside but you had to watch your footing since the overnight rain had created some slippery conditions and a fair bit of mud. However, we all managed the circuit over a stone bridge offering great views of the “brown” Nile (thanks to the rain). We saw Black-billed Barbet, Grey-backed Cameroptera, Black-winged Bishop, Wire-tailed Swallow, Black-billed Wood Hoopoe and Long- crested Eagle. Obviously, the falls themselves were pretty stunning – especially with the recent rain. Many photos were taken! We took a small boat back across the river and met up with our bus taking us back to lunch (stopping for an obliging roadside Goliath Heron).

Our lunch at the Tana Hotel was just right, before a short walk through the gardens to our boat taking us across Lake Tana (noting Osprey, several White-winged Terns and African Fish Eagle), to the Zege peninsula where we walked to the Ura Kidane Mehret church. Ashu proved to be an informative guide not just for wildlife, as he took us around the incredible wall paintings. Outside, we found a few Yellow-fronted Parrots. We added to our mammal list with Grivet Monkey and Tree Hyrax. As the sun lowered, we travelled back across the lake, seeing Hippos and colossal numbers of Sand Martins dotting the sky.

Back at the hotel for a freshen up before checklist and dinner. Another full but amazing day – and still only our second full day here!

Day 4 Monday 14th October

Drive to Gondar, via Fogera Plain, Devil’s Nose, Gondar historic sites We managed to get away promptly and, via a couple of quick stops for Hippos and a superb Black-crowned Crane, we visited a viewpoint overlooking the Blue Nile and Bahir Dar – we were able to see across Lake Tana to the Zege peninsula. We saw Northern Black Flycatcher, Ethiopian Boubou and Peter glimpsed a Red- shouldered Cuckooshrike. Onward we made our way to the Fogera Plain, an area now largely given over to rice production, but we managed to see some good birds in several stops. These included many White-winged Terns, including one in summer plumage, Avocet, more Black-crowned Cranes, two fantastic Wattled Cranes, Red-

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breasted Wheatears and African Spoonbill. Further on, we stopped to photograph the volcanic plug of the Devil’s Nose or God’s Thumb! Here, sat on the top or occasionally spiralling about it, we around 20 Ruppell’s Vultures. The next two new trip birds were both storks – Woolly-necked and Black. A short distance further – two amazing Abyssinian Ground Hornbills!

We then concentrated on getting to our lunch destination – the popular Four Sisters restaurant in Gondar – an amazing buffet of local food which was far too tempting to resist…and we didn’t! Some even went for seconds (mentioning no names). After lunch, we spent a few minutes by the foyer where an obliging White-cheeked Turaco was perched.

The afternoon was spent visiting the world heritage site of Fasil Ghebbi – not only spectacular, but well wooded and good for birds – perfect! Ashu took us around, providing an interesting commentary as well as locating Abyssinian Orioles, Nubian Woodpecker, Streaky Seedeater and a Blue Rock Thrush. Our final stop was the Debre Birhan Selassie Church which had some of the most impressive paintings – as well as a cross incorporating real ostrich eggs – as you do.... A few minutes in the grounds provided us with great views of White-collared Pigeons and Wattled Ibis. Thirty minutes later, we entered our hotel for the night – Mayleko Lodge where we checked in before running through our checklist and having dinner – with the odd short power- cut to add to the atmosphere.

Day 5 Tuesday 15th October

Fasilides Baths, drive to Simien Mountains National Park with stops. A pre-breakfast wander around the lodge grounds provided us with excellent views of Mocking Cliff Chats among other species. After a welcome buffet breakfast, we were set to go. Our first stop was Fasilides Bath which we had all to ourselves. What a special time this was, not only was the birding exceptional, the opportunity to see and photograph the baths in perfect conditions was so rewarding. In just one hour, we saw among others, White-cheeked Turaco, African Grey Woodpecker, Lesser and Greater Honeyguide, Slender-billed Starling, Black-billed and Banded Barbet, Yellow-rumped Waxbill and an African Harrier-Hawk. The water in the baths reflected the building perfectly, apart from when the family party of Egyptian Geese created ripples. The roots of the fig trees, reminiscent of the famous banyan trees at Angkor Wat, were the subject of many photos.

Just after 10am we started on our journey to the Simien Mountains. In some rolling rocky countryside en route, Ashu mentioned we should look out for White-winged Cliff Chat – about five seconds before we saw one perched on rocks in a roadside field. Next to it was a Blue Rock Thrush, an Abyssinian Wheatear flew in to the next rock and a few minutes later, a Moorland Chat perched on another rock. Remarkable! At the back of the field, we added our first White-rumped Babblers. Moving on, we stopped at a viewpoint to marvel at the incredible landscape – noting our first Black Saw-wings and House Martins. We arrived at our lunch stop in Debark. which offered a welcome break from the driving, before getting our permits and our local rangers who would be with us throughout our stay in the National Park.

We had about an hour to drive to the Simien Park Lodge but stopped for some time to scan by a small bridge over a river. Most of us had put our coats on by this stage. We added Siberian Stonechat, Groundscraper Thrush, Brown-throated Martin, Ruppell’s Black Chat, Three-banded Plover, Black Duck and Ethiopian (Black- headed) Siskin. After another photographic stop, we reached our lodge at 4.40pm, in time to settle in before the

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checklist and a fabulous buffet dinner. Charmingly, we were offered hot water bottles on our way back to our rooms – a nice touch and a welcome addition to our cosy rooms. We were all quite excited about tomorrow in this stunning place.

Day 6 Wednesday 16th October

Simien National Park – drive to Chenek We woke to a beautiful clear sunrise, promising a good day for finding wildlife. Ashu was keen to reach Chenek as this was a key area for Walia Ibex. But there are many factors at play – the state of the road for one and the weather the other!

Richard took the long route to breakfast and saw an African Golden Wolf cross the road. After breakfast, we were on the bus heading along the road towards Chenek. First were a flock of roadside European Bee-eaters, then several Erkel’s Francolins. We pressed on, passing our first Geladas and Klipspringers, but a couple of the latter sat so perfectly at the roadside, we had to stop. Next, we stopped at the first of many viewpoints, to try and take in the vastness and beauty of this landscape. Just stunning mountains! White-billed Starlings flew by – another endemic. We stopped at a campsite to use their facilities, getting amazing views of the mighty Thick- billed Ravens. Also, a Lammergeier flew by – one of several sightings.

Clouds were beginning to build, and we began to worry about finding the Ibex, just as we reached the key area. But we persevered and scanned the cliffs and crags. Ashu picked up a movement with his binoculars and suggested scanning with a telescope. Thankfully, Walia Ibex have very large horns – and that is all that could be seen at first: a pair of long, curved horns near the horizon. Eventually they moved to reveal an animal underneath! We decided our best bet was to drive up a few more hairpin bends to get more level and try to see it again. The problem was, the road, while pretty good most of the time, was atrocious here and there. One of the main problems were the numerous locals and their mules. We struggled in a couple of places due to the terrain and steepness of the road and so got out while the bus proceeded. It was slow work and at least one donkey passed us three times… But we reached the spot, and were rewarded by good scope views of one, and then a second Walia Ibex. After watching for about 15 minutes, the cloud came in. It did clear a few minutes later allowing us to gain more views of both Ibex on the skyline. Feeling very relieved, we boarded the bus for a more leisurely drive back.

Our first stops were to take more time with the Giant Lobelias covering the slopes in various places. The next was a stop in an area rich in Red Hot Pokers. Here we also saw Malachite Sunbird and flocks of Slender-billed Starling feeding on them – the black starlings were covered in pollen giving their heads an odd colouration. We reached another spectacular viewpoint for lunch where a pair of Thick-billed Ravens flew in, keeping a keen eye on our lunch. Here we were able to look down on Ruppell’s Vultures and noted our first Nyazna Swifts. Our next new sighting was a little briefer, but a Melenik’s Bushbuck crossed the road. We stopped and saw another briefly and the a third – Tessa even managing a photo of one before it disappeared into the vegetation. Next were the Geladas. We found a troop feeding at the roadside and got out to sit and walk among them. This really is such an amazing experience, watching these placid vegetarians actively picking grass, while their young play and do the same.

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The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

We spent about 30 minutes with them before moving on to another viewpoint nearby. We’d tried to find Ankobar Serin, an endemic finch, but despite our efforts, all our potential sightings had turned into Streaky Seedeaters. Here however, Peter got on a small group which we were able to study, noting the pale cheek patch and lack of green on the primaries among other subtle features – not a show-stopper maybe, but a good one to catch up with. We also had flight views of Fan-tailed Raven and Augur Buzzard. Our final stop was for Grey Bush Duiker which paused long enough for good views. Back at the lodge for 4.30pm, we caught our breath before meeting for our checklist, watching a documentary about Geladas and dinner. A wonderful day in fantastic conditions with very special wildlife.

Day 7 Thursday 17th October

We had a more leisurely start today with an 8.30am departure from the lodge. Thankfully, it was another lovely day. The aim of this morning’s trip was some quality Gelada time. We first found a group coming out of their overnight accommodation and climbing up the cliff to feed in the morning sun. We enjoyed close views for 45 minutes before moving further down the road to find another group “playing” on a roadside cliff. Another dose of Gelada helped to fill up those memory cards. Our third stop, a little further on, was for a short walk along the escarpment. Overhead were many Nyanza Swifts, Lammergeier and Tawny Eagle. We also photographed a few butterflies to try and identify later. At the end of our walk, we admired the view (as usual), seeing very close Lammergeier, a gorgeous fly-by Verreaux’s Eagle, some White-billed Starlings and more Ankobar Serins. Our last stop of the morning, just beyond the campsite, gave us our first Little Sparrowhawk (with prey) and finally, after nearly giving up, two Abyssinian Catbirds. On our return drive, we were very pleased to see close views of Melenik’s Bushbuck. We were back at the lodge for 1.15pm.

We enjoyed a short breather before heading just down the road at 3.30pm for a walk. The gently sloping meadow gave way to a slightly steeper rocky path, but we made it – managing views of White-backed Black Tit, Yellow-crowned Canary, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher and finally, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler. We ended our wander in a beautiful green valley full of Geladas. It was a lovely end to the day.

Day 8 Friday 18th October

Drive from Simien National Park to Gondar. After overnight thunderstorms, we woke to another excellent day of mountain weather. We had been really lucky with such clear weather. We departed at 8am and headed back towards Debark, after a couple of stops for photos. Just before the town, we stopped again at the bridge we’d stopped at on the way in. A fleeting Red- collared Widowbird and an Ethiopian Cisticola were seen in the nearby crops. But more popular was the pale- phase Augur Buzzard flying by several times and then perching. Peter found an Ortolan Bunting, the Ruppell’s Black Chat was showing well, and a confiding pair of Agama Lizards basked in the sun. Onwards, we reached the town and said goodbye to our “rangers” and headed for the Goha Hotel where Ashu had arranged lunch. After ordering, we did some birdwatching in the lush grounds, seeing a good range of species but including two new trip species – the very yellow African Yellow White-eye and a pair of African Wood Owls. After lunch, we scanned the skies over the town where we added Steppe Eagle to the trip.

The short drive to Mayleko Lodge meant we could all have a bit of down time before we met for the checklist and dinner. Tomorrow, we fly south!

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Day 9 Saturday 19th October

Gondar to Addis, Drive to Awash National Park A day of travel today. After breakfast, we loaded up and headed the five minutes to Gondar airport which was fairly straightforward, all things considered – taking shoes off twice for security was a bit awkward but Ashu sorted out our main bags and we took off on time arriving in Addis at 10.40am. We finally got to see the awful traffic in the city but only for a short time until we reached the expressway and zoomed to Adama where we had pre-ordered lunch. Then we joined the road to Djibouti compete with parallel train line – clearly an important thoroughfare and at times, quite busy. Eventually, we left the main road and paid our entrance fee to Awash National Park. Here, many photographs of camels were taken!

As we’d been on the go for so long, we opted for the direct quicker route to the lodge. That’s all well and good except when you’re in a national park. Our 30-minute drive was nearer 50. But we did see Egyptian Vultures, Straw-tailed Wydah, Olive Bee-eater, Eastern Yellow Hornbill and Helmeted Guineafowl before our first wild mammal, the recently reclassified African Golden Wolf. Two walked straight towards us and up to the bus before realising we were there; they were probably young animals, but a fine sighting for us. Next came a brief Warthog and an even briefer Lesser Kudu. Better was the roadside Buff-crested Bustard, Crested Francolins and a handsome Black-chested Snake Eagle. We reached the lodge at 6.20pm and settled in. After dinner, torches picked out gleaming eyes from the river – Crocodiles!

Day 10 Sunday 20th October

Awash NP, Aledegi NP To make the best of the day, we had an early breakfast overlooking the dramatic falls, managing better views of the Crocodiles in the morning light, as well as African Fish Eagles providing their particular brand of the dawn chorus. Naturetrek make it clear that planned itineraries may change from time to time, due to local circumstances. Well, maybe our timings today did err on the later side of things, but this was due to the wildlife! A mixture of excellent wildlife and photographic opportunities on our drive through Awash National Park certainly kept us busy. Highlights were Ethiopian Hare, our first Sommering’s Gazelle, flocks of Red-billed Quelea, an obliging Steel-blue Whydah and Beisa Oryx. We stopped for closer looks at Somali Fiscal and the ostentatious Northern Camine Bee-eater, the more-understated, but still gorgeous, White-throated Bee-eater and a Jacobin Cuckoo. We were all amazed at seeing our first Leopard Tortoise - some two feet across, and the first of several sightings of this excellent reptile.

Then we hit the tarmac to reach Aledegi National Park in good time, picking up our scout who was essential, knowing which tracks to use. Once through the buffer zone, we picked up an Arabian Bustard, just showing itself in the tall grass. While watching that, we noted Somali Ostriches in the background. Next were large numbers of Sommering’s Gazelles, a very popular and obliging flying Secretary Bird, some less obliging Grevy’s Zebra, Black-backed Jackal and finally, after a circuit of the savannah, on a short route through some roadside acacia, we found a small number of rather skittish Gerenuks. On our return, we had to go through some sort of customs procedure since we were on the main road from Djibouti, which gave us an opportunity to watch and photograph the Sacred Baboons climbing over the lorries!

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It was a wildlife-packed day meaning our lunch stop at the “Gennet Hootel” was more early afternoon than noon. We then drove the short distance to the park entrance and enjoyed yet more wildlife dotted throughout the journey, including both Chestnut Sparrow and Chestnut Weaver, two very close Kori Bustards, a beautiful male Pallid Harrier and Abyssinian Ground Hornbills. We arrived back at 6pm, with enough time to just squeeze in a night drive before dinner. Unfortunately, it was quite quiet with one brief Hyaena and a couple of Abyssinian Hares.

Day 11 Monday 21st October

Awash NP, Lake Basaka, Mount Fentale Hyenas About half the group opted for a pre-breakfast walk in the cool morning light. Our route along the river provided a few new sightings such as White-browed Coucal, Thrush Nightingale (several heard), Yellow-billed Stork, Ruppell’s Glossy Starling, Pied and Giant Kingfishers, Ruppell’s Weaver, Nile Valley Sunbirds, Black- billed Barbet in the nest hole, Nubian Woodpeckers, many Grivet Monkeys and two brief Black-and-white Colobus Monkeys. Then it was time for breakfast! Afterwards, we picked up a scout and took a circuit through the acacia scrub; we saw just one of the several Buff-crowned Bustards heard, Abyssinian Roller, both Isabelline Wheatear and Shrike, White-bellied Go-away-bird and Bataleur. Pride of place though, must go to the mammals, with first, a pair of Beisa Oryx with a very young calf. Later, we encountered a whole field full of Oryx which we got a little closer to, finding two adults and three very smart young animals with them. We made it back by 1pm, in time to order lunch and freshen up beforehand.

After a breather, we met by the bus at 4pm, heading first to Lake Basaka for a few minutes’ scanning. Here we had our first good view of Marabou Stork, a few Squacco Herons, Senegal Thick-knee, Kittlitz’s Plover and fishing Pied Kingfisher. Then it was onwards to the Spotted Hyenas’ cave at the foot of Mount Fentale, which we walked to at dusk to position ourselves on the rocks and wait for movement. A few Rock Hyrax were seen briefly en route, and as the light faded, we got in position overlooking their domain. Firstly, we noticed many bats emerged against the beautiful sky, before seeing some other movement on the ground. Although quite dark, we saw several Spotted Hyaenas emerge and wander around, with others calling further away. We managed reasonable views over the next half an hour, until it was too dark to see any further. Back on the bus, we arrived back in time to for a slightly later dinner at 8.30pm.

Day 12 Tuesday 22nd October

Awash NP, Zway, Awassa Today started with an early breakfast overlooking the falls and one or two Crocodiles. Grivet monkeys eyed our breakfast but the guard with a long stick made appropriate noises when they got too bold! We were on the road by 7am and aiming to cover a fair distance. The trouble was, it is never too easy to drive out of Awash NP without stopping! We had to stop for a roadside Red-fronted Barbet and a Northern White-crowned Shrike. Julie asked for a photo of Hoopoe as we left and amazingly, there was one on the wires. We then made good progress until a Great Spotted Cuckoo and a short walk, notching up Little Bee-eater and Buff-crested Bustard. Back on the road, we headed back to Basaka Lake to scan from the water’s edge. Many lovely dragonflies darted here and there, and we noted Striated Heron, Yellow-billed Storks, African Silverbills and a fine Monitor Lizard. We spent

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about 20 minutes looking for the Sombre Rock Chat but saw nothing until we got on the bus. A very likely candidate perched on a piece of lava but flew before we could confirm it.

We drove onwards towards our coffee stop in the bustling town of Modjo. Our first attempted hotel looked fine, except they didn’t have water…; however, the next was perfect – quick service and an opportunity to get a little refreshed before the next leg to Zway. We made it to the Haile Resort at 1.45, having already pre-ordered our lunch. We were eating under a large tree when Jan said, “What’s that?” A fine Red-throated Wryneck showed well for most. We also saw Little Weaver and Tawny-flanked Prinia. We had more ground to cover to reach our hotel, but we were next to the marsh fringes of the lake. We squeezed in an amazing 30 minutes here, with close views of White Pelicans and Marabou Storks. Slightly smaller were three species of Kingfisher, two gorgeous African Pygmy Geese, Jacanas, Darters, Grey-headed Gulls and the rather less obvious Reichenow’s Seedeater.

Hard as it was, we dragged ourselves away and got back on board after enjoying good views of Beautiful Sunbird. Our mid-afternoon to evening journey took us through several lively towns and included a thankfully short “technical stop” where our resourceful driver Mitiku got out to fix a fuel transmission problem, due to some bad petrol, they concluded. There had been a request for bananas, so we had a quick stop where Ashu bought a large bunch for the thankful group. We duly arrived at the grand Haile Resort at 6.15, feeling somewhat underdressed. But that didn’t stop us from checking in and having a fine buffet.

Day 13 Wednesday 23rd October

Awassa hotel, fish market, United Africa Hotel A pre-breakfast walk in the grounds of the Haile Resort Awassa was productive – the birds started before we got outside, as an immature Peregrine Falcon chased a Speckled Pigeon. The hapless pigeon actually flew into the glass window of the hotel and the Peregrine just sat on the grass, looking confused. Our walk outside added White-browed Robin-Chat, Grey-headed Batis, our first white-phase African Paradise Flycatcher and Buff- bellied Warbler.

After breakfast, our planned departure was altered. We had heard of a dispute among different parts of the population and the main road had been blocked. We decided to continue with our planned itinerary for the morning and make necessary plans after that. So, it was off to the nearby fish market to witness some exciting and busy Ethiopian life – men and boys gutted fish and worked though nets, while being constantly watched by Marabou Storks and White Pelicans. It was an assault on the senses, but fascinating. After 30 minutes we went to the adjacent woodland picking up Red-headed and Little Weavers and some fabulous Black-and-white Colobus Monkeys. Back at the hotel, we heard that the road was still blocked. We decided the best option was to book another night in this fine hotel and visit the nearby United Africa Hotel which boasted extensive grounds for an afternoon walk.

As we arrived, more Colobus Monkeys were waiting for us near the outside dining tables. After our meal, we wandered the grounds finding another Red-throated Wryneck, Nubian Woodpecker and African Pygmy Geese and Purple Heron on the lake side. We had time for a breather back at our hotel (stopping for a banana snack en route), before the usual high quality buffet and checklist.

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Day 14 Thursday 24th October

Awassa Hotel, Wondo Genet Agricultural Station We woke early to be prepared for travel but, unfortunately, the road was still blocked. Ashu and Mikatu worked hard all morning (and much of the night!) to make plans. We spent the morning in the hotel grounds and enjoying the Pied Kingfishers feeding young (a photographer’s dream), and the various birds we could find in the hotel gardens such as White-browed Robin-Chats, Beautiful Sunbirds, Cut-throat Finches. Peter and Diane found Mottled Swifts and Richard added a Redstart.

We’d made contingency plans so following lunch, we hopped back on the bus for a change of scene. We had a guide and drove to Wondo Genet Agricultural Station – a bit of natural forestry hidden behind a large area of eucalyptus plantation. Here we spent nearly two hours on forest trails, seeing some spectacular butterflies and adding a few new trip species such as Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Narina Trogon, Mountain Wagtail and Red- winged Starling. On the way back, the now-traditional banana stop did not disappoint, before a freshen up, checklist and dinner.

Day 15 Friday 25th October

Awassa, Langano There was good news on the roads today, but our itinerary needed to be changed since we had spent three nights (albeit luxurious nights) at Awassa. We set off north towards Lake Langano. After a couple of hours, we were approaching our next lodge and starting to see birds such as Lilac-breasted Roller and Harrier-Hawk. A White- bellied Go-away-bird welcomed us in the car park. After checking in, we had about an hour to check out our surroundings, with some rooms overlooking the lake and Hippos! Others had to make do with hornbills, Pygmy Kingfishers and Great Sparrowhawk. The edge of the lake was pretty busy, even in the midday heat, with White Pelicans, Senegal Thick-knees and a Monitor Lizard. Here too were a few waders, including Greenshank and Ruff. More familiar migrants were here too, with Redstarts, Lesser Whitethroat and Blackcaps. Lunch was wonderful in the open-fronted restaurant overlooking the lake – a Great Honeyguide drank at a bird bath, Ruppell’s Starlings edged their ways closer to our table and White Pelicans and Cormorants fed together. We did the same and in fact were almost as synchronised as the pelicans, since we all raised our hands for apple fritters for dessert.

We took a breather after lunch in the heat of the day. Various wanderings produced Red-fronted Tinkerbird, White-rumped Babbler and Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike among others. At 3.30pm, we met for a walk further into the compound. It was pretty bird rich but still quite hot. We saw Eastern Grey Woodpecker, Red-fronted Tinkerbird and Bruce’s Green Pigeon in the fig tree by the restaurant. Our walk yielded Bearded Woodpecker, the beautiful Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike, Violet-backed Starling, Black Scimitarbill, Gabar Goshawk and Red- shouldered Cuckooshrike. We headed outside the compound as the sun went down and saw Grey Bush Duiker, Common Snipe, Marsh Sandpiper and several Ruffs. Back at the restaurant, we ran through the checklist before our dinner.

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Day 16 Saturday 26th October

Langano, Bishen Gari Forest, Abijate-Shalla Lakes NP, Simba Lodge The day started with casual wanderings around the beautiful setting of Hara Langano and breakfast overlooking hornbills and hippos. The night before, Ashu had located a pair of African Scops Owls next to Richard’s cabin, but only one or two of the group were around to see them. Thankfully, they were in a nearby tree this morning and the whole group got to enjoy these incredibly camouflaged owls before breakfast.

After breakfast, most then went for a short drive to the nearby Bishen Gari forest where we walked through acacia scrub, noting our first Red-faced Cromecs, Red-throated Wryneck, Reichenow’s Seedeater, Blue-spotted Wood Doves and a fair number of Pale Flycatchers. Into the forest proper, we added Collared Sunbird, Brown- throated Wattle-eye, Red-capped Robin-Chat, the gorgeous Lemon Dove, Abyssinian Ground Thrush and White-winged Black Tit but unfortunately, the calling Yellowbill stayed hidden.

Back at the lodge, we said thanks to Hakim who had guided our route, picked up the remainder of the group and headed for the other side of the lake. Our first stop was the rather grand Hotel Sabana which had commanding views from the cliff top and a small watering hole attracting Cut-throat Finches, Von der Decken’s Hornbills and a Black-winged Lovebird, among others. Lunch was excellent with White-browed Sparrow-Weavers sitting on vacant chair eyeing our meals. Over the road to the Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park we added the tiny Crimson-rumped Waxbill to our trip list and had great views of White-bellied Go-away-birds. Walking further, our guide pointed out a roosting Barn Owl In a rusted water tank. Then we found a herd of Grant’s Gazelles including a fine male. One or two suspiciously tame Somali Ostriches stalked around, but wilder were Slate- coloured Boubou, more Von de Decken’s Hornbills, a Warthog and Rattling Cisticola. We drove on to the viewpoint overlooking the two magnificent lakes, noting the extremely distant flamingos of indeterminate species.

Ashu had been negotiating with the adjacent Simba Lodge (currently closed and eerily derelict) since this was an excellent place for a walk and the staff knew certain things of interest to us! First, we were led to a pair of roosting Slender-tailed Nightjars – amazing. Next, we saw a pair of Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls. We thought this was enough, but he then led us to a Greyish Eagle-Owl and then a pair of White-faced Owls – five species of owls in a day! This rich but peculiar area was a cross between Portmeirion and Jurassic World where the owls had taken over rather than dinosaurs… Anyway, we survived intact, and also managed to see a lovely Little Rock Thrush here – an amazing end to the day. We arrived back at Hara Lengano at dusk in time for a shower before dinner.

Day 17 Sunday 27th October

Langano, Zway, Bishoftu, Addis Ababa We had a leisurely start this morning with an 8am breakfast, allowing us the group to wander around the compound and enjoy the wonderful surroundings – the Hippos were in their usual place, a small group of waders including Senegal Thick-knees were at the water’s edge. By 9am, we were away, firstly via the local school supported by Haro Lodge since some of the group had decided to fundraise for the school when back home. Getting on the road, we took a refreshment break in Zway Hotel again (as we were passing!) and enjoyed half an hour on the edge of the lake, adding Hottentot Teal and Little Grebe to our trip. We had a lunch stop booked in Bishoftu, so carried on, finding a flock of Common Cranes at the roadside before joining the Expressway and

10 © Naturetrek November 19

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

reaching the Pyramid Hotel overlooking the dramatic Bishoftu crater lake – home to another 50 or so Little Grebes at least. A fine lunch was enjoyed before checking our the nearby Chelekleka Lake which was potentially quite amazing but not particularly fragrant, being next to a dairy farm and all associated features – but actually, the 20 minutes we spent there was pretty good, with Shoveler, Garganey, Knob-billed (also known as Comb) Ducks, White-faced and Fulvous Whistling Ducks. Also, we saw some Greater Flamingos in the distance.

Next was Addis. Our journey into the city environs was pretty quick from our last stop and in just over an hour, we were outside the Jupiter Hotel where we had booked an extra night.

Day 18 Monday 28th October

Addis Ababa, Sululta Plain, Ghion Hotel As we were in Addis a day early, we had some time to explore a nearby highland area – nearby maybe, but we still had to negotiate the Addis traffic. We waited until after main rush hour and started our climb north from the city. All went to plan until a customs checkpoint – more thorough checks were taking place currently and a bus had broken down. Drivers coming in the opposite direction were using all the available tarmac, including our side, but we made it through. What became apparent was that the queue going back was extensive. This made for a rather briefer visit to our target area off the main A3 – a large damp and grassy plain, near Sululta. We walked along the edge of the area for about 40 minutes, seeing the bizarre and biologically isolated endemic Blue-winged Goose, and also Steppe Eagle, Moorland Chat and Augur Buzzard. Back on the bus, we were pleased to find the traffic queue substantially reduced heading back into the city. Not that half an hour of stop-start traffic was the tour highlight, but we made it to the checkpoint and decided to head back to the Ghion Hotel for lunch, where the tour started.

We lunched in the garden café and then largely repeated our first walk in the hotel grounds in reverse. Large numbers of Tacazzi Sunbirds fed in the Bottlebrush trees, while Brown-rumped Seed-eaters, Abyssinian Slaty and African Dusky Flycatchers and a few Montane White-eyes were also noted before we retraced our steps back to the Jupiter Hotel at 3.30pm for a relax and pack before our final meal.

In the evening, we enjoyed our final meal. Alan kindly said a few words to sum up our Ethiopian adventure before we said our first goodbye, to Alan and Julie on their longer journey to Australia. Around 9.30pm, the group said goodbye to Kate, Peter and Diane, staying on for a few days to visit Lalibela, thanked Ashu and Mitiku, and made our way to the nearby airport for our flight home.

Day 19 Tuesday 29th October

Addis Ababa - London The overnight flight landed back at London Heathrow Airport.

Well, our tour had been an adventure! Plans had to change towards the end of our trip, some things worked well, others were more “adventurous”. I hope, however, it is the many highlights this tour offers which will stick in the mind – our relaxed amble around Fasilides Bath, our spectacular time in the Simien mountains with perfect

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

weather and sun-bathed Geladas, the three teenage Besia Oyrx and the Langano owl extravaganza. And of course, the incredibly tasty bananas!

Thanks to Ashenafi and our skilful drivers who looked after us so well, showing us much of what this incredibly diverse country has to offer.

Lalibela extension (by Peter Lack) Wow! An amazing place! For anyone visiting or re-visiting Ethiopia we would strongly recommend a visit. We were joined on the extension by Ian and Neil who had been on the Naturetrek Endemic Birds tour.

The rock churches at Lalibela, indeed the whole environment around them, are a breath-taking engineering achievement. The churches and their interiors, along with tunnels and ditches to enable passage for humans and allow rainwater to flow away, are cut as a single piece from the rock, and have an extraordinary atmosphere. Carved out of the volcanic tuff which overlays the basalt base, the pillars, walls and roofs look like “buildings” which extend up to 50 metres high (or more correctly are carved down to 50 metres into the rock, stopping when the harder basalt was reached). It is hard to believe they are of 12th-13th-century construction. There is lots of religious symbolism, some more believable than the rest!

We were greeted on the Tuesday lunchtime by a Lammergeier circling around and below the balconies of our hotel rooms. Later, on our walk up to the Asheton Maryam, we saw one repeatedly dropping a bone, along with a pair of Lanner Falcons displaying and swooping low over our heads. Otherwise the birds were rather overshadowed.

The first afternoon was spent looking at the first group of churches in Lalibela itself, ending up at the most famous one – St George’s – which is the cruciform one often shown in photos. The next morning, we travelled about 40 kilometres from the town and walked up to Yemrehanna Christos, a church built within a large cave which also houses the tomb of King Lalibela and has some desiccated mummies about 600 years old tucked away at the back. Our visit was timed opportunistically to coincide with the religious celebration of the Angel Gabriel’s feast day, and the cave was crowded with 500 or so people, with more sitting around in the narrow valley surrounding the entrance. Walking around freely within the crowd while the religious activities carried on around us was an unforgettable experience. After returning to Lalibela for lunch, we again headed out into the countryside and “walked” up to another church, Asheton Maryam, along a sometimes narrow and steep path. The view at the top was the best we saw in Ethiopia! The last morning before heading for the airport was spent seeing the second group of churches in the town.

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Tour Report The Best of Ethiopia

Species Lists

Birds (✓=recorded but not counted; H = heard only; LO = leader only) E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 1 Somali Ostrich Struthio molybdophanes 75 4 2 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris 3 25 ✓ 2 3 Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena 4 h h 4 Erckel's Francolin Pternistis erckelii 10 2 5 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix LO 6 Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei 3 7 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata 3 1 7 40 8 Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor 6 12 6 9 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis 2 ✓ 2 1 1 2 6 10 Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 2 2 30 11 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 3 2 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 12 African Pygmy Goose Nettapus auritus 2 8 1 13 Garganey Spatula querquedula 4 14 Hottentot Teal Spatula hottentota 4 15 Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata 6 16 African Black Duck Anas sparsa 2 17 Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus 2 18 Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis 4 19 Nyanza Swift Apus niansae 2 ✓ 20 White-rumped Swift Apus caffer 5 5 1 2 21 White-cheeked Turaco Tauraco leucotis 1 1 2 2 3 1 22 Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus 5 1 23 White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster 1 2 1 10 24 Eastern Plantain-eater Crinifer zonurus 2 5 1 2 25 Arabian Bustard Ardeotis arabs 4 26 Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori 2 27 White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis h 28 Buff-crested Bustard Lophotis gindiana 1 1 1 29 Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus 2 1 1 1

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E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 30 White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus 2 31 Green Malkoha Ceuthmochares australis h 32 Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius 1 33 Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus 1 34 Diederik Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius h 35 Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas 1 h h 36 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 1 1 10 3 1 2 37 Rock Dove - I Columba livia var. domestica 5 38 Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 39 White-collared Pigeon - N Columba albitorques ✓ 15 5 10 2 40 10 40 African Olive Pigeon Columba arquatrix 1 3 41 Lemon Dove Columba larvata h 2 42 Dusky Turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens 5 2 4 3 4 6 2 1 43 Mourning Collared Dove Streptopelia decipiens h 3 5 3 h ✓ 2 44 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 45 Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola 1 3 1 5 h 46 Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis 2 ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ 47 Blue-spotted Wood Dove Turtur afer h 5 1 48 Namaqua Dove Oena capensis 2 40 ✓ ✓ 2 6 49 Bruce's Green Pigeon Treron waalia 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 50 Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra 2 2 1 51 Allen's Gallinule Porphyrio alleni 1 52 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus meridionalis 1 53 Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata 6 5 54 Black Crowned Crane Balearica pavonina 10 55 Wattled Crane Grus carunculata 2 56 Common Crane Grus grus 70 57 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 50 58 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus ? 50 59 Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor ? 60 Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis 2 3 5 3 61 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 4 8

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 62 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 6 2 63 Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus 1 4 4 10 4 4 6 ✓ ✓ 64 Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus 6 2 ✓ 1 65 African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus 3 2 66 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 2 67 Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius 1 68 Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris 2 69 Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis 1 70 African Jacana Actophilornis africanus 7 1 ✓ 10 2 1 ✓ 71 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 5 72 Ruff Calidris pugnax 20 1 15 4 73 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 2 2 74 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 3 2 10 5 10 2 ✓ 75 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 1 1 1 76 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 1 77 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 1 1 5 10 78 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 2 2 79 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus 1 80 Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus 20 ✓ 2 1 1 6 81 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus fuscus 3 1 10 82 Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica 1 2 83 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida 1 84 White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus ✓ ✓ 30 2 1 4 85 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis 5 5 3 1 86 African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus 10 87 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 1 1 LO3 12 88 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 2 2 1 2 89 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 8 90 Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis 1 2 91 Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer 45 20 3 15 ✓ ✓ ✓ 2 ✓ 92 Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus 15 20 1 1 2 93 White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus 2 2 15 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 94 African Darter Anhinga rufa 7 6 1 4 95 African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus 3 5 3 1 15 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 96 Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash 6 5 1 2 6 10 10 1 1 97 Wattled Ibis - N Bostrychia carunculata 4 2 6 ✓ ✓ 4 2 2 98 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 1 1 99 African Spoonbill Platalea alba 2 1 1 100 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 1 101 Striated Heron Butorides striata 1 102 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 1 1 4 ✓ 15 ✓ 6 ✓ 10 103 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ✓ ✓ 20 20 5 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 104 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 2 2 1 1 2 1 4 1 105 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala 2 1 1 106 Goliath Heron Ardea goliath 1 1 2 1 107 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 3 1 1 108 Great Egret Ardea alba 1 1 ✓ 1 1 1 ✓ 1 4 109 Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca 2 110 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 2 ✓ 1 1 2 2 2 4 111 Hamerkop Scopus umbretta 4 2 2 1 3 2 10 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 112 Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 15 100 ✓ ✓ ✓ 20 10 ✓ 113 Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius 2 114 Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus 1 115 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus caeruleus 1 116 African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus 1 1 1 117 Bearded Vulture Gypaetus barbatus 1 5 3 3 118 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 2 119 Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus ✓ 8 ✓ ✓ 2 5 ✓ 5 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 120 White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus 20 2 ✓ 1 2 1 1 121 Rüppell's Vulture Gyps rueppelli 20 2 ✓ 5 2 1 122 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus 1 123 Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis 1 124 Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus 2 125 Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus LO

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 126 Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis 1 2 1 127 Wahlberg's Eagle Hieraaetus wahlbergi 1 128 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax 1 1 2 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 129 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis 1 1 1 2 130 Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii 1 131 Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar 2 132 Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates 1 1 3 1 133 Eastern Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus 2 1 134 African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro 135 Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus 1 1 136 Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus 1 137 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 1 1 1 1 138 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 3 139 Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus 1 140 Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 141 African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer h 5 2 2 8 10 2 6 4 ✓ 142 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus 1 1 1 143 Augur Buzzard Buteo augur 2 6 2 5 1 1 1 1 144 Western Barn Owl Tyto alba 1 145 African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis 2 2 146 Northern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis leucotis 2 147 Greyish Eagle-Owl Bubo cinerascens 1 148 Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus 2 149 African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii 2 150 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 6 10 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 151 Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus 3 2 5 2 5 152 Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina 2 1 153 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops senegalensis 1 4 4 3 4 4 2 1 154 Black-billed Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus somaliensis 6 8 4 2 h ✓ 155 Black Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus aterrimus 1 156 Abyssinian Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus minor 1 157 Abyssinian Ground Hornbill Bucorvus abyssinicus 2 2 1

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 158 Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus 2 2 159 Von der Decken's Hornbill Tockus deckeni 4 160 Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus flavirostris 2 1 2 1 161 Hemprich's Hornbill Lophoceros hemprichii 3 2 2 162 African Grey Hornbill Lophoceros nasutus 8 6 5 1 163 Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Bycanistes brevis 1 2 3 4 ✓ ✓ ✓ 164 Purple Roller Coracias naevius 3 2 1 1 165 Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus 1 1 2 3 1 166 Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinicus 4 2 1 167 Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala 4 4 1 1 1 168 Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti 2 6 ✓ 1 1 169 Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis 3 2 2 5 2 1 170 African Pygmy Kingfisher Ispidina picta 2 171 Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus 1 2 8 5 1 3 172 Half-collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata 3 173 Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima 1 2 1 1 174 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 4 10 1 10 ✓ ✓ 1 ✓ 175 Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus 1 1 3 1 176 Blue-breasted Bee-eater Merops variegatus lafresnayii 10 3 4 1 20 ✓ ✓ 177 White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis 4 2 178 Olive Bee-eater Merops superciliosus 2 2 2 ✓ ✓ 179 European Bee-eater Merops apiaster 8 2 180 Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus 20 4 6 4 181 Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus 1 h 6 182 Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus 2 183 Red-fronted Barbet Tricholaema diademata 1 1 184 Banded Barbet - N Lybius undatus 1 2 2 2 1 1 2 185 Black-billed Barbet Lybius guifsobalito 2 1 3 1 1 1 1 186 Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus 2 2 4 1 187 Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor 1 188 Scaly-throated Honeyguide Indicator variegatus 1 189 Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator 1 2

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 190 Red-throated Wryneck Jynx ruficollis 1 1 1 1 191 Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica 1 2 2 1 1 h 192 Bearded Woodpecker Chloropicus namaquus 1 193 African Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae 2 194 Eastern Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos spodocephalus 1 1 3 195 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 2 1 1 196 Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus 2 1 1 197 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1 1 1 1 198 Yellow-fronted Parrot - E Poicephalus flavifrons 3 1 10 199 Black-winged Lovebird - E Agapornis taranta ✓ 4 2 12 4 5 2 200 Grey-headed Batis Batis orientalis 4 2 201 Western Black-headed Batis Batis erlangeri 1 1 2 1 202 Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea 1 1 203 Grey-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti h 204 Orange-breasted Bushshrike Chlorophoneus sulfureopectus 1 h 1 205 Rosy-patched Bushshrike Telophorus cruentus 1 206 Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis 1 207 Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris 2 208 Ethiopian Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus h 2 1 4 h 1 209 Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike Campephaga phoenicea 1 1 210 Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus ruppelli 1 1 1 1 211 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio 1 35 10 1 212 Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus 2 2 1 213 Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor 1 214 Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides 3 1 1 1 ✓ ✓ 7 215 Somali Fiscal Lanius somalicus 6 1 216 Northern Fiscal Lanius humeralis 1 10 ✓ 2 2 4 1 217 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator 1 1 3 1 1 218 Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 1 2 1 1 1 219 Ethiopian Oriole - N Oriolus monacha 4 1 4 220 Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis 1 1 5 1 3 3 221 African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis 3 1 2 1 1 5 4 1 2

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 222 Cape Crow Corvus capensis 6 2 ✓ 4 ✓ ✓ ✓ 223 Pied Crow Corvus albus ✓ 1 ✓ ✓ 3 ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ 224 Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus 2 2 3 7 2 1 2 1 2 ✓ 225 Thick-billed Raven Corvus crassirostris 1 7 ✓ ✓ ✓ 8 226 White-winged Black Tit Melaniparus leucomelas 4 227 White-backed Black Tit - N Melaniparus leuconotus 1 4 4 4 2 228 Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis ✓ ✓ 229 Thekla's Lark Galerida theklae h ✓ ✓ 1 230 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 2 10 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 231 Somali Bulbul - N Pycnonotus somaliensis 1 2 232 Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne pristoptera pristoptera 40 1 1 233 Black Saw-wing - E Psalidoprocne pristoptera antinorii 1 234 Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola 4 4 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 235 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 000s 1 1 10 2 4 ✓ 236 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica ✓ ✓ 1 10 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 237 Ethiopian Swallow Hirundo aethiopica 1 238 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 5 1 239 Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula 10 10 4 ✓ ✓ ✓ 8 1 6 ✓ 240 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum 6 ✓ 5 241 Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica 1 242 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 2 243 Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura 1 244 Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii 3 245 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus h h 3 246 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 1 1 247 Cinnamon Bracken Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus 2 248 Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana 1 249 Ethiopian Cisticola - N Cisticola lugubris 1 250 Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens 2 251 Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava 2 1 1 2 252 Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella 8 1 1 4 253 Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata ✓ 2h 1 1 1 8 10 ✓ ✓

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 254 Rufous Chatterer Turdoides rubiginosa 5 5 255 White-rumped Babbler Turdoides leucopygia 3 10 2 256 Abyssinian Catbird - E Parophasma galinieri 2 257 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 2 h 3 1 1 1 5 1 258 Garden Warbler Sylvia borin 1 259 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 1 4 2 260 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis 1 1 1 261 Abyssinian White-eye Zosterops abyssinicus 1 1 1 262 African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis 1 263 Montane White-eye Zosterops poliogastrus poliogastrus 4 4 2 2 4 1 1 4 264 Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea 20 15 ✓ 265 Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus 6 ✓ ✓ 1 5 ✓ ✓ ✓ 266 Lesser Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus 10 267 Rüppell's Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera 10 3 ✓ ✓ ✓ 268 Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus 5 2 ✓ 2 20 ✓ 269 Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster 1 1 270 Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio 8 10 20 10 271 Slender-billed Starling Onychognathus tenuirostris 1 2 ✓ 3 20 10 272 Somali Starling Onychognathus blythii 1 273 White-billed Starling - N Onychognathus albirostris 4 4 274 Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorynchus 3 5 4 3 275 Abyssinian Ground Thrush Geokichla piaggiae 1 276 Groundscraper Thrush Turdus litsitsirupa 10 4 5 10 277 African Thrush Turdus pelios 1 3 1 278 Abyssinian Thrush Turdus abyssinicus 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 279 Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher - N Melaenornis chocolatinus 2 1 2 6 5 1 1 280 Northern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides 1 2 4 1 6 281 Pale Flycatcher Melaenornis pallidus 15 282 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 1 10 5 5 1 4 3 283 African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta 4 5 284 Rüppell's Robin-Chat Cossypha semirufa 2 1 2 285 White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini 6 10

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 286 Red-capped Robin-Chat Cossypha natalensis 1 287 Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia h h h 288 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus 1 5 4 289 White-winged Cliff Chat - N Monticola semirufus 2 1 1 290 Little Rock Thrush Monticola rufocinereus 1 1 291 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 1 1 292 Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus variegatus 1 293 Moorland Chat Pinarochroa sordida 6 ✓ ✓ ✓ 294 Mocking Cliff Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris 1 2 4 2 1 1 295 Rüppell's Black Chat - N Myrmecocichla melaena 2 2 296 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 6 5 2 1 297 Red-breasted Wheatear Oenanthe bottae 6 2 298 Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina 45 ✓ 1 4 10 ✓ 299 Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka 1 1 2 300 Abyssinian Wheatear Oenanthe lugubris 2 1 301 Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris 4 302 Nile Valley Sunbird Hedydipna metallica 2 303 Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis 3 1 2 1 5 5 1 304 Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze ✓ 1 5 5 305 Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa 1 2 306 Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus 4 ✓ ✓ ✓ 2 307 Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 308 Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cupreus 1 1 1 309 Swainson's Sparrow Passer swainsonii 6 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 310 Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey 5 311 Red-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis niger 20 ✓ ✓ 312 White-headed Buffalo Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli 1 15 2 3 4 313 White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali 4 5 6 10 10 5 10 ✓ ✓ 314 Thick-billed Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons 2 315 Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht ✓ 1 ✓ 2 2 5 ✓ 2 316 Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus 1 1 2 2 1 317 Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis 6 2 1 1

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 318 Rüppell's Weaver Ploceus galbula 2 319 Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius 2 320 Vitelline Masked Weaver Ploceus vitellinus 1 321 Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 322 Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus 4 323 Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps leuconotos 1 3 324 Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 325 Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer ✓ ✓ 326 Black Bishop Euplectes gierowii 1 327 Black-winged Red Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus 1 4 1 328 Northern Red Bishop Euplectes franciscanus 1 2 1 329 Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis 1 330 Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris 1 331 Yellow-mantled Widowbird Euplectes macroura 1 ✓ ✓ 3 2 1 332 Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens 1 333 Cut-throat Finch Amadina fasciata 2 2 2 3 10 334 Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 2 ✓ ✓ 1 8 ✓ 335 Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus 1 5 ✓ ✓ 6 1 2 1 1 10 ✓ 336 Yellow-bellied Waxbill Coccopygia quartinia 3 4 2 337 Crimson-rumped Waxbill Estrilda rhodopyga 2 338 African Silverbill Euodice cantans 1 2 339 Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata 3 2 2 2 2 ✓ 4 2 4 1 340 Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata ✓ 2 ✓ 1 341 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura 2 2 1 342 Steel-blue Whydah Vidua hypocherina 1 1 343 Straw-tailed Whydah Vidua fischeri 1 344 Long-tailed Paradise Whydah Vidua paradisaea 2 1 1 1 345 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava ✓ ✓ h ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 346 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava feldegg 1 347 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 1 4 1 1 1 348 Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara 1 349 African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp 1 1

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 350 Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys 1 351 Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus 2 1 352 African Citril Crithagra citrinelloides 6 10 4 5 10 10 4 10 353 Reichenow's Seedeater Crithagra reichenowi 2 2 1 354 Ankober Serin - E Crithagra ankoberensis 4 8 355 Brown-rumped Seedeater Crithagra tristriata 10 10 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 356 Streaky Seedeater Crithagra striolata 3 5 10 ✓ ✓ 1 5 h 357 Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus flavivertex 6 2 358 Ethiopian Siskin - E Serinus nigriceps 4 5 4 3 359 Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana 2 360 Somali Bunting Emberiza poliopleura h

Mammals 1 Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis 2 1 1 2 Grivet Monkey Chlorocebus aethiops 6 4 25 12 ✓ 1 3 Guereza Colobus guereza 2 5 6 10 20 4 Olive Baboon Papio anubis 3 ✓ 2 1 5 5 Hamadryas Baboon Papio hamadryas 30 ✓ 6 Gelada Baboon - E Theropithecus gelada 150 400 12 7 Abyssinian Hare Lepus habessinicus 3 3 1 8 Gambian Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus gambianus 2 1 2 2 9 Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta 10 h 10 Golden Jackal Canis aureus 1 2 1 11 Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas 4 12 Grevy's Zebra Equus grevyi 2 13 Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus 1 30 8 1 14 Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius 2 2 6 6 4 15 Walia Ibex - E Capra walie 2 16 Gerenuk Litocranius walleri 5 17 Salt's Dik-dik Madoqua saltiana 4 2 18 Grant's Gazelle Nanger granti 1 20 19 Soemmerring's Gazelle Nanger soemmerringii ✓

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

E=Endemic, N=Near-endemic I=Introduced October Common name Scientific name 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 20 Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus 6 10 21 Beisa Oryx Oryx beisa 10 ✓ 22 Common Duiker (Grey Bush) Sylvicapra grimmia 3 1 23 Lesser Kudu Tragelaphus imberbis 1 24 Bushbuck - E Tragelaphus scriptus meneliki 3 3

Other Taxa 1 Leopard Tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis 4 4 2 Nile Crocodile Crododylus niloticus 4 7 3 3 Monitor Lizard sp 1 1 1 1 4 Agama sp 1 2 5 Gecko sp 1 1 6 Praying Mantis sp 1 1

Butterflies Painted Lady, Vanessa cardui A butterfly, Belenois aurota A butterfly, Junonia terea A butterfly, Colotis amata A butterfly, Colotis sp

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