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The Best of Ethiopia

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The Best of Ethiopia The Best of Ethiopia Naturetrek Tour Report 11 - 29 October 2019 Geladas by Tessa Needham Speckled Mousebird by Julie Marshall Leopard Tortoise by Mike Sarre Pied Kingfishers Pied Kingfishers by Charles Kimse y Report by Richard Bashford Images courtesy of Tessa Needham, Julie Marshall, Mike Sarre & Pied Kingfishers Charles Kimsey Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Best of Ethiopia Tour participants: Richard Bashford (Leader), Ashenafi Sileshi (local guide) with 12 Naturetrek clients Day 1 Friday 11th October Our tour started for eight of us boarding the evening flight from London’s Heathrow Airport and arriving in Addis Ababa at 6.45am on Saturday. Day 2 Saturday 12th October Arrival in Addis Ababa, Ghion Hotel grounds, flight to Bahir Dar, Tana Hotel grounds Addis Ababa airport was thankfully, very easy to navigate – we’d all arranged our visas and so after a few minutes queuing, we were changing money just as Norma and Steve met us, having arrived on a slightly earlier Manchester flight. We met Ashenafi just where we expected to see him and drove into the remarkably traffic-free city to the Ghion Hotel where the final three tour participants were waiting for us following a bit of pre-tour tourism. Breakfast was served in the hotel – a very welcome spot of relaxation. We managed to spend about one hour in the grounds of the hotel, seeing far too much, quite frankly! In the trees by the doorway, Ashenfi spotted White-backed Black Tit, Montane White-eye, followed by Speckled Mousebirds, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Mountain Thrush and then Brown-rumped Seedeater – our first endemic. Our second was next – Wattled Ibis. Here too we saw Ruppell’s Robin-Chat and the gorgeous Blue-breasted Bee-eater. But we had a plane to catch and an unknown traffic situation. Back on board the bus, we zoomed to the domestic terminal in just seven minutes, enjoying two security checks before catching our delayed flight to Bahir Dar; we arrived 30 minutes late, but this did not affect our plans. Peter’s ringing skills came in handy in the terminal, as he was able to pick up an African Silverbill and release it outside. We then drove the short distance to our hotel, checked in and ate lunch, possibly the biggest portions ever, before having a short breather. Our optional afternoon excursion was well supported despite our long day thus far. We drove to the approach road to the Tana Hotel, walking into the grounds. It was a slow walk – starting off with stunning Yellow- crowned Bishops, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Striped Kingfisher, Black-winged Lovebird, African Citril and Swainson’s Sparrow. We’d hardly walked any distance by this stage, but eventually made it into the hotel grounds where we saw a fine Woodland Kingfisher and eventually managed great views of the bizarre Double-toothed Barbet. Two Eastern Grey Plantain-eaters entertained us, spooking a perched Klaas’s Cuckoo. Here we noted more familiar species such as Spotted Flycatcher, Blackcap and Whitethroat, next to the far more exotic Red- cheeked Cordon-bleu. Finally, we saw Black Crakes near the lake edge and found a Black-headed Batis and an Eastern Grey Woodpecker. Phew! We’d been a little cheeky perhaps walking around the grounds, so we booked tomorrow’s lunch with them by way of a thank you. Back at our hotel, we refreshed ourselves before the checklist and dinner, none of us hanging around too long before retiring to our rooms for some proper sleep. © Naturetrek November 19 1 The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report Day 3 Sunday 13th October Blue Nile Falls circuit, Boat trip Lake Tana, Zege Peninsula and Ura Kidane Mehret church We were up promptly to make the best of the day – we were still new to the country and driving even short distances would provide us with many stops for wildlife. We left the hotel at 7.30am and headed towards the Blue Nile Falls. We had a few roadside stops to have a good look at White-backed and Hooded Vultures. We stopped a little further on to look at a stunning Pin-tailed Whydah, noting the supporting cast of Red-rumped Swallow, Copper Sunbird and some fly-over White-faced Ducks. A little further on still, we saw a Blue-headed Coucal, a Giant Kingfisher, which kindly landed next to us, and our first Hemphrich’s Hornbills. We then left the tarmac entering into the hustle and bustle of rural Ethiopian life down a bumpy road. There was so much to look at but heading into more open country, we found a magnificent Saddle-billed Stork sitting in a field, a Mocking Cliff Chat on a roadside building, Grey-backed and Northern Fiscal. Our first mammal was next, with three Olive Baboons, then African Openbill storks and a well-camouflaged Squacco Heron which Diane found. The were many more excellent sightings but we eventually made it to the start of our walk to the Blue Nile Falls. There were rather too many people trying to help us, but it soon became clear, we had a guide and knew where we were going. The walk itself was through some stunning volcanic countryside but you had to watch your footing since the overnight rain had created some slippery conditions and a fair bit of mud. However, we all managed the circuit over a stone bridge offering great views of the “brown” Nile (thanks to the rain). We saw Black-billed Barbet, Grey-backed Cameroptera, Black-winged Bishop, Wire-tailed Swallow, Black-billed Wood Hoopoe and Long- crested Eagle. Obviously, the falls themselves were pretty stunning – especially with the recent rain. Many photos were taken! We took a small boat back across the river and met up with our bus taking us back to lunch (stopping for an obliging roadside Goliath Heron). Our lunch at the Tana Hotel was just right, before a short walk through the gardens to our boat taking us across Lake Tana (noting Osprey, several White-winged Terns and African Fish Eagle), to the Zege peninsula where we walked to the Ura Kidane Mehret church. Ashu proved to be an informative guide not just for wildlife, as he took us around the incredible wall paintings. Outside, we found a few Yellow-fronted Parrots. We added to our mammal list with Grivet Monkey and Tree Hyrax. As the sun lowered, we travelled back across the lake, seeing Hippos and colossal numbers of Sand Martins dotting the sky. Back at the hotel for a freshen up before checklist and dinner. Another full but amazing day – and still only our second full day here! Day 4 Monday 14th October Drive to Gondar, via Fogera Plain, Devil’s Nose, Gondar historic sites We managed to get away promptly and, via a couple of quick stops for Hippos and a superb Black-crowned Crane, we visited a viewpoint overlooking the Blue Nile and Bahir Dar – we were able to see across Lake Tana to the Zege peninsula. We saw Northern Black Flycatcher, Ethiopian Boubou and Peter glimpsed a Red- shouldered Cuckooshrike. Onward we made our way to the Fogera Plain, an area now largely given over to rice production, but we managed to see some good birds in several stops. These included many White-winged Terns, including one in summer plumage, Avocet, more Black-crowned Cranes, two fantastic Wattled Cranes, Red- 2 © Naturetrek November 19 The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report breasted Wheatears and African Spoonbill. Further on, we stopped to photograph the volcanic plug of the Devil’s Nose or God’s Thumb! Here, sat on the top or occasionally spiralling about it, we around 20 Ruppell’s Vultures. The next two new trip birds were both storks – Woolly-necked and Black. A short distance further – two amazing Abyssinian Ground Hornbills! We then concentrated on getting to our lunch destination – the popular Four Sisters restaurant in Gondar – an amazing buffet of local food which was far too tempting to resist…and we didn’t! Some even went for seconds (mentioning no names). After lunch, we spent a few minutes by the foyer where an obliging White-cheeked Turaco was perched. The afternoon was spent visiting the world heritage site of Fasil Ghebbi – not only spectacular, but well wooded and good for birds – perfect! Ashu took us around, providing an interesting commentary as well as locating Abyssinian Orioles, Nubian Woodpecker, Streaky Seedeater and a Blue Rock Thrush. Our final stop was the Debre Birhan Selassie Church which had some of the most impressive paintings – as well as a cross incorporating real ostrich eggs – as you do.... A few minutes in the grounds provided us with great views of White-collared Pigeons and Wattled Ibis. Thirty minutes later, we entered our hotel for the night – Mayleko Lodge where we checked in before running through our checklist and having dinner – with the odd short power- cut to add to the atmosphere. Day 5 Tuesday 15th October Fasilides Baths, drive to Simien Mountains National Park with stops. A pre-breakfast wander around the lodge grounds provided us with excellent views of Mocking Cliff Chats among other species. After a welcome buffet breakfast, we were set to go. Our first stop was Fasilides Bath which we had all to ourselves. What a special time this was, not only was the birding exceptional, the opportunity to see and photograph the baths in perfect conditions was so rewarding. In just one hour, we saw among others, White-cheeked Turaco, African Grey Woodpecker, Lesser and Greater Honeyguide, Slender-billed Starling, Black-billed and Banded Barbet, Yellow-rumped Waxbill and an African Harrier-Hawk.
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