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Natural Dyes: Extraction and Applications

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Natural Dyes: Extraction and Applications Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2021) 10(01): 1669-1677 International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences ISSN: 2319-7706 Volume 10 Number 01 (2021) Journal homepage: http://www.ijcmas.com Review Article https://doi.org/10.20546/ijcmas.2021.1001.195 Natural Dyes: Extraction and Applications Lizamoni Chungkrang*, Smita Bhuyan and Ava Rani Phukan Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, College of Community Science, Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat, Assam, India *Corresponding author ABSTRACT K e yw or ds Coloration, Dyeing, Natural dyes are obtained from natural sources such as vegetable, animal or Extraction, mineral matters. These dyes are generally used in coloration of textiles, Mordant, Natural dye etc. food, cosmetics and drugs. This article attempts to reviews the classification of natural dyes according to the method of application Article Info available natural dye sources, mordant and its classification, different mordanting methods, extraction methods, dyeing methods and advantages Accepted: 12 December 2020 and disadvantages of natural dyes have been discussed. Available Online: 10 January 2021 Introduction German Legislation (Consumer Goods Ordinance). Netherlands followed a ban with Presently there is a great demand for the use effect from August 1, 1996 on similar lines. of natural colours throughout the world due to European Union is likely to impose ban on non-biodegradable and carcinogenic nature these toxic dyes shortly. India has also banned associated with synthetic dyes (Chungkrang the use of specific azo-dyes and under and Bhuyan, 2020). They are not produce any notification ―sufficient legal teeth‖ had been undesired by-products and at the same time given for taking panel action against those they help in regenerating the environment, who use these dyes (Kapoor and therefore natural dyes are the safe dyes Pushpangadan, 2001; Singh et al., 2006). (Akkewar, 1999; Darwekar et al., 1999). Government of Germany was the first to take Natural dyes are important since they are initiative to put ban on azo-dyes for better than synthetic dyes in many ways. manufacturing, dyeing and importing textiles Undeniably, the natural dyes are healthier and other consumer goods dyed with these products, purely because they do not comprise dyes from January 1, 1995 by the act of chemicals damaging to fitness (Baliarsingh et 1669 Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2021) 10(01): 1669-1677 al., 2013). These dyes are collected from Mordant dyes: Mordant dyes are those dyes, nature and no need to apply manufacturing which have affinity for the mordanted fibres. process to prepare them. These dyes are easily Most of the natural dyes yield different shades decomposed in nature after using and they do of colours with different mordants. The not pollute the environment while destroying mordant dyes are classified as monogenetic them after end use (Alam et al., (2020). The and polygenetic. Monogenetic dye produce natural dyes are used mainly in coloration of only one colour according to the mordant textiles, food, drugs and cosmetics. Small present on the fiber or applied along with the quantities of dyes are also used in coloration dye materials. Polygenetic dye produces of paper, leather, shoe polish, wood, cane, different colours according to the mordant candles and such other products requiring employed. coloration (Gulrajani, 2001). Vat dyes: The vat dyes derive the name from Classification of natural dyes according to the fermented wooden called ‗vat‘ which was the method of application used at one time for reducing the dye and converting it into soluble form. The process The natural dyes can be classified into three of the solubilization of the dye is called as groups according to the method of application ‗vatting‘. The soluble form of the dye is (Gulrajani and Gupta, 1992; Dedhia, 1998; called as leuco dye. The leuco form of the dye Samanta and Konar, 2012; Jihad, 2014). is not only soluble in water but also has an affinity for the natural fibers. The dye colour Direct or substantive dyes is pale yellow but the true colour is produced only on treatment with hot soap solution. A dye, soluble in water can be taken up They include the most ancient of dyes such as directly by the material to be dyed without indigo and tyrian purple etc. any pretreatment, is known as direct or substantive dye. These dyes can be applied Disperse dyes: Natural dye has not been directly in a hot aqueous dye solution without classified as disperse dye, however by looking the use of fixing agent or mordant. These dyes at the structure and solubility characteristics are mainly used for cellulosic fibers, protein of the natural dyes it is felt that some of the fibers and polyamides. Examples of direct natural dyes can be classified as disperse natural dyes are turmeric, annatto, berberry, dyes. Disperse dye has a low relative safflower etc. The direct dyes are further molecular mass, low solubility to the dye classified into acid dyes and basic dyes. molecule. These dyes have hydroxyl and amino groups which imparts some solubility Acid dyes: These dyes are used for wool and to the dye molecule. One such dye could be silk and are applied in the acidic medium. Lawsone. Many other flavones and They have the structure of either sulphonic or anthraquinone dyes can qualify to be carboxylic group. classified as disperse dyes. Basic dyes: These dyes on ionization give Mordant and its classification: Nearly all coloured action, which form electrovalent natural dyes require mordants to give bonds with the carboxylic acid groups of wool substantativity. The term mordant has been and silk. These dyes are applied in neutral to derived from the Latin word mordeo, which mildly acidic pH. means ―to bite‖ or to ―take hold of (Gohl and Vilensky, 1983). The majority of natural dyes 1670 Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2021) 10(01): 1669-1677 need a chemical in the form of metal salts to Oil or Oil Mordants: Oil –mordants are create on affinity between the fiber and the mainly used in the dyeing of Turkey red pigment. These chemicals are known as colour from madder. The main function of the mordants (Bisht and Goel, 1999; Singh and oil-mordant is to form a complex with alum Srivastava, 2015; Vankar et al., 2009). used as the main mordant. Since alum is soluble in water and does not have affinity for Classification cotton, it is easily washed out from the treated fabric. The naturally occurring oils contain Three type‘s mordants are used in dyeing fatty acids such as palmitic, stearic, oleic, textiles materials, metallic mordants, tannin ricinolic etc. and their glycerides. The – and tannic acid and oil mordants (Agarwal COOH groups of fatty acids react with metal and Patel, 2000). salts and get converted into –COOM, where M denotes the metal, for instance in the case Metal Salts or Metallic Mordants: Several of alum it would be Al. subsequently, it was different metal salts can be used for found that the treatment of oils with mordanting such as Alum (Potassium concentrated sulphuric acid produces aluminum sulphate), Copper (Copper sulphonated oils which possess better metal sulphate), Chrome (Potassium dichromate), binding capacity than the natural oils due to Iron (Ferrous sulphate) and Tin (Stannous the introduction of sulphonic acid group, - chloride, Stannic chloride) SO3H. The sulphonic acid can react with metal salts to produce –SO3M. The bound Tannins and Tannic acid: Tannin and metal can then form a complex with the Tannic acid is present in the barks, leaves, mordant dye such as madder to give Turkey fruits and galls of many plants. The word red colour of superior fastness and hue. ‗tannin‘ comes from the early French word Tan, which means bark of an oak. The term Mordanting Methods tannin was introduced by Sequin in the year 1976 to indicate various plants extracts which Mordanting is classified on the basis of have capacity to convert hides and skins into application time of mordants (Gohl and leather. Tannins are classified into two Villensky, 1983). These are pre-mordanting categories: (before dyeing), simultaneous mordanting and post mordanting (after dyeing). (i) Condensed or flavonoid (Catechol type) tannins based on polymeric flavor, obtained Pre-mordanting: In this method, the textile from acacia catechu. Tannins such as tannic material is first immersed into the mordant acid, harda etc are considered as natural solution for 30 to 60 minutes at the room mordants. temperature or higher temperature with a liquor ratio of 1:5 to 1:20. Then dyed the (ii) Hydrolysable (Pyrogallot type) tannins textile material treated with mordant. After based on esters of gallic acid, obtained from dyeing, the dyed material is wash. myrobalan fruit, oak bark, gallnuts, pomegranate rind etc. Simultaneous mordanting: For this method, the textile material, mordant and dye are In the same plant different parts like bark, nut, immersed in a dyebath simultaneously. For leaf and wood may contain different types of the optimization of dyeing conditions, dyeing tannins (Dwivedi, 1993). process variables can be studied for the 1671 Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2021) 10(01): 1669-1677 specific fibre-mordant-natural dye system in used which helps in hydrolysis of glycosides order to improve the colour yield of textiles. resulting in better extraction. Acidic method After dyeing, the textile material is wash is used in extraction of tesu natural dye from properly. tesu flower. Alkaline medium is used for those colour extraction which contain Post-mordanting: In this method, the dyeing phenolic groups. Extraction of colour from lac process is carried out on the textile material insect, annatto seeds, safflower petals are without mordant. After dyeing, the dyed extracted by this method. fabric is treated in another bath containing the mordant solution. Treatment condition may Ultrasonic microwave extraction: In this vary depending on the type of fibre, dye and extraction method, raw material is treated in mordant system being used.
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