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Ask the Experts Leaders of the Pack Setting up shop The mall-maker The concept store trailblazer Carlos Jereissati Filho Carla Sozzani Iguatemi Group, São Paulo — For the 10 Corso Como, Milan — Since defining a new approach to retail in the early 1990s, Ask the experts man behind this Brazilian empire, success Carla Sozzani has continued to place an emphasis on shopping as an experience Leaders of the pack comes from catering to the community. and applied the concept to cities around the world. You’d be hard-pressed to deny The Jereissati Filho family practically invented Carla Sozzani is an Italian former fashion editor into English as “concept store”. It became a way that retail has been in flux of high-end shopping centres in Brazil and the man and founder of 10 Corso Como (10cc) in Milan, to describe places of a certain atmosphere – a mar- late. But it’s not all doom and at the helm today is second-generation scion widely regarded as the world’s first concept store. keting tool. Carlos Jereissati Filho. As ceo of the Iguatemi It was a revelation when it opened in an undesir- gloom, as the snappiest brands Group he leads a team of 2,700 people and con- able area of the city in 1991, selling clothing along- Yours was the first shop to ofer experiential and most successful players prove. trols three commercial towers, two premium out- side books, art and homeware, and adding a café retail. Do you think this idea is still as impor- Whether it’s understanding how lets and 16 malls in four Brazilian states. As for his where shoppers could take a break from browsing tant today? People could drink a cofee, try on a to nurture a personable shopping next step? Launching an e-commerce platform, to enjoy a cappuccino. Phrases such as “concept jacket or look at an exhibition. The aim today is showcasing the select brands that are present in its store” and “experiential retail” are bandied about still for customers to have all their senses stimu- experience and customer loyalty or shopping centres. so often these days that they have lost meaning but lated. It’s part of living an experience; a conver- comprehending that investing in Sozzani was a pioneer in creating a comprehensive sation starter. Today I believe that is even more something that lasts reaps dividends How does Iguatemi continue to stay relevant in-store experience. 10cc now important than it was 27 years ago. in the long-term, the actions of the in this market? The key is to always innovate and has outposts in Shanghai, Beijing, Now there is too much communi- be very close to your community in order to under- Seoul and New York; the latest cation. But young people come in retail frontrunners demonstrate a stand and anticipate their needs. We have a diverse addition, in Manhattan, opened and don’t look at their telephones, forward-thinking attitude and an and democratic mix, and our stores and services in 2018 in the newly renovated instead they sit and chat. I see ability to adapt. can be enjoyed by groups with varying spending Seaport area. It sells fashion from a them. It’s incredible. powers. We want to keep our Brazilian identity and mix of heavyweight brands, includ- flavour while also ofering relevant fashion and ing Margiela, and up-and-coming Why did you decide to open in In this chapter we travel the luxury brands from other parts of the world. designers such as Sies Marjan. New York? I wasn’t interested in world – from Brazil’s retail capital And as with all of 10cc’s shops opening in New York until I saw São Paulo to Seattle, via Shanghai Many people say that the mall business, at it’s got plenty of other attractions, the location. It’s in a former fish and San Francisco – to speak to least in the US, is in decline. How do you housing a gallery, an Italian restau- market that was built in 1822; it’s avoid a similar fate in Brazil with Iguatemi? rant, a lounge bar and a garden. a 2,600 sq m space and it’s all on the folk with their finger on the Customers increasingly expect a high level of ser- one level. Can you believe it? The pulse. Some simply came up with vice and special experiences. We are known for our How did you come to open 10CC area is undergoing huge renova- an enduring idea before anyone excellent customer service and for the intimate in 1991? I had been a fashion editor tions. It’s pedestrianised and all the else; others have realised that the relationships we create with our clients. Our shop- for 19 years with Vo g u e I t a l i a and houses around are very low-rise, ping centres are platforms for leisure, community then I launched Italian Elle. I grew so you feel like you’re in a village. traditional paradigms of shopping and family life. We provide clients with personal tired of it so I opened a gallery and then a book- There are views of the Brooklyn Bridge. It made have to be rethought in the 21st shoppers, concierges and lounges and create expe- shop but I ended up missing fashion. I decided to me feel like I did when I opened in Milan, in what century. Their collective expertise riences that can’t be had online. We also want to create a destination where people could come and was considered the outskirts of the city. give customers cultural experiences by supporting meet. I did the only thing I knew, which was editing means retail is more diverse and some of the major events in the Brazilian art world. magazines, except instead of editing pages, I edited What defines your space in Manhattan? Well, decentralised than ever – and the tables and racks. I put all my favourite things in the we are not a department store. We are not a chain. world richer for it. Why do Brazilians love malls so much? They’re shop. In the beginning, people couldn’t understand People can come to us to have a new type of shop- looking for a place to shop, dine and socialise. why there were shoes with books, candles with ping experience. I don’t think there are other shops Iguatemi ofers all the conveniences of security, clothes, photography with suitcases. It wasn’t until like ours in the city, with a gallery and a big café comfort and integration of stores in one place, with an Italian journalist wrote a story about my shop and restaurant and the books. It might be in New plenty of outdoor spaces, green areas and interac- that people started to understand. She wrote that York but this is slow shopping. Come and buy a tion with the city and the community. 10cc was a new concept in retail; it got translated book and have a seat while you pay. 236 237 Setting up shop / Ask the experts The retail architect The interior designer To r q u i l M c I n t o s h Maria Veerasamy Sybarite, London — Torquil McIntosh and business partner Simon Mitchell have Svenskt Tenn, Stockholm — Spending her early career at a company that placed an long had a passion for retail design. Today their work informs the fit-outs of shops emphasis on craftsmanship made a significant impression on Maria Veerasamy, who the world over. continues to champion quality goods that last a lifetime. While most architects avoid focusing on one sector, What are the most important details for strong Maria Veerasamy isn’t your typical ruthless to cut costs and have higher margins. Suddenly when Torquil McIntosh co-founded Sybarite in retail design? One of our favourite subjects is fit- executive with nothing but growth on her mind. there were mid-season sales and new collections 2002 he dedicated it to luxury retail and hospitality. ting rooms. It’s proven that more than 50 per cent The Swedish-born ceo of Svenskt Tenn is a 11 times a year, which I didn’t feel comfortable Today he is high-end fashion’s go-to architect, with of people who use fitting rooms go on to buy three tailor by trade and values quality, handwork and with because I come from a craft background and a wholesale, hands-on approach to everything from or more products but only seven per cent like the consistency above all else. She joined the company quality design takes time. It was no fun working large-scale commissions to small details such as experience; people dislike fitting rooms because in 2011, 87 years after it was founded by furniture this way – you can’t create the complicated styles hangers. Projects that his team of 50 have worked they have bad lighting, there are no hooks, it’s and textile designer Estrid Ericson. Although the you want, whether clothes or interiors. We have on include 250 boutiques for Marni and 750 stufy and there’s no space for their partner. We’re Stockholm-based label is now globally recognised to really focus on craftsmanship and educate the Stefanel shops, with prefabricated fit-outs designed rebranding 130 shops for Thomas Pink and we’re for its unapologetically colourful and patterned customers today. The young are not aware of the for franchise owners to customise interiors to their tripling the size of the fitting rooms. Decluttering homeware, Veerasamy has been working to excellence and complexity within the products own specifications.
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