4 CONTENTS Do You Feel Like... Do You Feel Like... CONTENTS 5

THE POPE Do You Feel Like… • Musei Capitolini Based on Pope Sixtus IV’s museum ... discovering something new in ? Culture or a bit of nature? of antiquities Here are some suggestions just the way you want them: page 157 • Musei Vaticani Anciient One of the world’s major art • Terme di Caracalla collections »Recreation centre« for about page 276 1,500 people • San Pietro in Vaticano “ page 168 The magnificence and size of the • Colosseo most famous church in Christen- World famous, awesome and dom defy description. impressive page 303 Water page 169 • Ponte Sant'Angelo • Fori Imperiali Bernini Ten angels guard the most ... … give interesting impressions • Fontana del Tritone beautiful of the ancient into life in ancient Rome. Hidden: the three little bees, Pope bridges of Rome page 163 page 184 Urban VIII’s heraldic animal • Isola Tiberina • Foro Romano page 183 Rome’s oldest existing bridge You can still feel the former Roman leads to the island in the world power. . page 204 page 188 ◀◀ • Palatino “ Impressive excavation site of The beginnings of Rome lie here. the old port city page 216 page 219 RomE FROM ABOVE • Tivoli • Gianicolo The water organ in the park Rome is at your feet from the top of the Villa d’Este plays of its eighth hill. Especially Renaissance music. page 267 worthwhile at sunset • Villa Borghese page 202 • Santa Maria sopra Minerva Romantic: the pretty temple • Pincio Bernini designed the charming of Asclepius on a small island Wonderful panoramic view from elephant. in the lake page 315 the observation terrace in Pincio page 238 Park • Fontana dei Fiumi “ page 242 The four statues represent the ◀◀ Danube, Ganges, Nile and Rio del Uncontested hotspot for every visit la Plata rivers. page 240 to Rome • page 246 Largest of Rome’s 80 churches • Monumento Nazionale a dedicated to Mary page 262 Vittorio Emanuele II • Museo e Imperial forums, Tiber, countless Bernini’s absolute genius is Baroque domes and roofs – the recognizable here. best view is from here. page 316 page 249 Special-TitelAll about Pasta 113 INSIGHT INSIGHT

© 144 TOURS Tour 1 Tour 1 TOURS 145

Getting Around in Rome

Driving a car in Rome is not for everyone. The Roman driving style is fast-paced and audacious, but also flexible: drivers get out of each other's way – if they know where to Stroll under the stars go. Skill, alertness and keeping an eye on other drivers are usually An evening stroll through Traste- TIP more important than any traffic vere, according to its citizens the signs. Don't insist on right of way, oldest district of Rome, is a won- but adapt to the flow of traffic as derful way to conclude a tour. quickly as possible. The best way to Simple trattorias and exquisite explore the city centre is still on foot, gourmet restaurants offer ample while using the metro for longer dis- opportunities to sample Roman fare. The hottest dance floors and tances, e.g. from the to hippest crowds are to be found in the Spanish Steps. Parking spaces the trendy San Lorenzo district are practically impossible to find, and on Monte . there are very few car parks, and the buses are frequently stuck in dense traffic. A further advantage to walk- ing is the freedom to saunter through the lovely little alleys, where bars and trattorias invite you to linger at every corner.

Tour 1 Where it All Began

Start and finish: Colosseo – Spanish Steps Duration:: a full day

To gain an overview of the main historical and cultural influ- ences that shaped the city, the first tour leads from the centre of the ancient city to the centre of modern Rome.

The starting point is the enormous M MColosseo, where once up to 50,000 spectators regaled themselves with bloody gladiator battles and animal fights. In the neighbouring Colle Oppio there are 45-minute guided tours of the eM MDomus Aurea, the golden palace of Emperor Nero. Note: pre-booking is required! An absolute must- see is the outdoor museum rM MForo Romano and tM MPalatino with impressive ruins from the time of the Roman republic and the imperial age. In ancient times the multi-storey Trajan's Markets on the adjacent uM MFori Imperiali (imperial forums) contained ap- proximately 150 shops. Everything was for sale here, from fresh fish and vegetables to expensive silks. The Fori Imperiali connect to the iM MCampidoglio, the heart and political centre of the city for over