YOUR GUIDE TO at RIPE 61 Welcome Message

Welcome to RIPE 61! We hope you enjoy your week at the meeting, and this beautiful and historic city. Please refer to this booklet to make the most of your spare time in Rome.

Contents

Welcome Message 2 Eating Out 3 Bars & Clubs 5 Taxis & Public Transportation 7 Helpful Italian Words & Phrases 9 Surviving the Streets of Rome 15 Want to Know More? Read on... 15 Important Contact Information 16 Map of Central Rome 16

2 Eating Out

Italian meals are the stuff the best wine the region has of legend, and Rome has a to offer. Experience the origi- deserved reputation as one nal “Fiorentina” T-bone . of the food capitals of the world. That doesn’t mean Ristorante Vladimiro you’re guaranteed to eat well Via Aurora 37 (Via ) everywhere you go though. +39 6 481 9467 2 It’s easy to spend a lot of www.ristorantevladimiro.com 3 money on a mediocre meal, 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 5 especially in the tourist areas 40 pp 7 in the centre of Rome. In this 9 booklet you’ll find a list of well-reviewed Serene atmosphere with an Italian singer 15 restaurants that we’ve researched with crooning in the background. Delicate 15 some help from our Italian colleagues. antipasti, pastas like tagliatelle a lemone, 16 Prices listed are an average estimate of and with razor thin artichokes... 16 three courses – some including wine, some excluding wine. Restaurants listed Filippo La Mantia (Hotel Majestic) are within walking distance from the Via Vittorio Veneto, 50 RIPE 61 meeting venue. +39 6 4214 4705 www.hotelmajestic.com Please note that the best places are often 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 100 pp popular with the locals, so you should always reserve in advance to avoid dis- A lavishly decorated restaurant with a appointment. warm and familial atmosphere. Chef Filippo specialises in Sicilian fare with a Ristorante Piccolo Abruzzo modern twist: pasta with citrus , Via Sicilia, 237 escalope with a sweet and sour carrot +39 6 42820176 purée. A bit pricier, but well worth a visit if www.piccoloabruzzo.it you can afford it. 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 50 pp Ristorante Tuna Piccolo Abruzzo is a small family-style Via Vittorio Veneto, 11 restaurant serving big portions of Italian +39 6 42016531 comfort food from the Abruzzo region. www.tunaroma.it/xhtml/en/ 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 80 pp Girarrosto Fiorentino Via Sicilia, 46 Featured in design magazines for its +39 6 42880660 striking all-white décor, Tuna is a hit with www.girarrostofiorentino.it both locals and tourists. The restau- 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 50 pp rant’s all-seafood menu has everything from oysters to lobster to sea urchins. It This is a Roman institution of 40 years received a rave review in the New York serving excellent Tuscan cuisine. Their Times. wine cellar contains over 400 bottles of

3 Ristorante Tullio Coppelle’s menu boasts memorable and Via San Nicola da Tolentino, 26 unpretentious food at reasonable prices. 00187 Roma, Italia +39 6 474 5560 www.tullioristorante.it For the Lovers 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 40 pp

Classic no-frills dining offering mama- style meals made from the season’s finest ingredients. Back in the day, Tullio was a favourite among Hollywood celeb- rities (Clark Gable was a frequent visitor). Word of warning: If there’s an antipasti and main course of the same name, be sure to make it clear to the waiter which one you want.

Colline Emiliane Baffeto Via degli Avignonesi, 22 Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo, 18 +39 6 4817538 +39 06.68210807 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 40 pp www.pizzeriabaffetto.it/default.asp

One of Fellini’s favourite haunts featuring Baffeto 2 unpretentious Bolognese food. The pasta Via del Governo Vecchio, 114, is made fresh daily (the pumpkin ravioli +39 06.6861617 is their speciality), and the owner’s wife www.pizzeriabaffetto.it/default.asp bakes the chocolate cake. What more could you want? Pizzeria Remo Libero Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44 Palatium +39 6 5746270 Via Frattina, 94 +39 66 9202132 Dar Poeta www.enotecapalatium.it Vicolo del Bologna, 45, 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 35 pp +39 06 588 0516 www.darpoeta.com Mouth-watering regional Lazzio cuisine/ wine bar at very reasonable prices makes La Montecarlo this a popular place with locals. Vicolo Savelli, 13 +39 06 686 1877 Ristorante CasaCoppelle www.lamontecarlo.it Piazza delle Coppelle, 49 +39 6 6889 1707 www.casacoppelle.it 3 courses w. wine – apx. EUR 50 pp

Lots of reviews for this place feature the phrase “we ate here 3/4/5 times”. Casa-

4 Links on Dining Out in Rome Bars & Clubs

Google Map for Rome Bars & Clubs: You won’t find it hard to find a bar or club http://bit.ly/b8okfg in Rome, but you may be overwhelmed by choice. Luckily, we’ve listed some of Google Map for Nearby Recommended the more notable places in Rome. Some Restaurants: require a bit of a walk, but you’ll get to http://bit.ly/4dca6u soak in the sites along the way. And just in case you didn’t know, “aperitivo” is “Eat like a Local in Rome” – Guardian a buffet of Italian snacks usually served http://bit.ly/9gh5ZO between the hours of 18:30-21:00. Buy a drink, and the food is yours for the taking. “Critic-choice restaurants” – Time Out http://bit.ly/9A1qDZ Alexanderplatz Via Ostia 9 “You can get a bad meal in Rome” – +39 6 39742171 Chowhound www.alexanderplatz.it http://bit.ly/cUzIE1 Branded as one of the best jazz bars in Rome, Alexanderplatz has a reputa- For a Memorable Coffee tion for great live music, chilled out and friendly atmosphere. It hosts Italian, foreign and a wide range of American jazz musicians who come here to perform nightly.

Radio Londra Via di Monte , 67 +39 6 575 0041 www.radiolondradiscobar.com

Popular nightclub playing electro and house. Entrance is EUR 15, including a drink. Open Wednesday to Sunday (21:00 -03:00).

The Drunken Ship Campo dei Fiori, 20 +39 6 68300535 www.drunkenship.com

Many think of this place as the best club/ Sant Eustachio bar in Rome, with modern designs that Order a “caffé por favore” at this famous distinguish it from other venues that café near the Pantheon. The recipes they are more classical. It is popular with use are still kept secret (they even keep the trendiest locals but tourists are also the coffee machine hidden). welcome.

5 Caruso Café de Orient Al Vino al Vino Via di , 36 Via dei Serpenti, 19 +39 6 5745019 +39 6 485 803 www.carusocafe.com This hostelry on lively via dei Serpenti A place for those Roman salsa fanatics to has a range of more than 500 wines, with come to listen to Latin American music, more than 25 available by the glass. But dance the night away or just hang out. its real specialty is distillati: dozens of Live Latin American music serenades the fine grappas, whiskies and other strong crowd on a nightly basis, topping off with spirits. In the back room are pretty cast- a similar DJ set to end the night. Open iron tables, topped with volcanic stone from 22:00 – 04:00 (closed on Mondays). and ceramics. The menu here is strong on Sicilian specialties such as caponata Freni e Frizioni (Sicilian ratatouille) and eggplant parmi- giana.

Artu Largo MD Fumasoni Biondi, 5 +39 6 588 0398

This friendly place, located in a little square off piazza Sant’Egidio, is a cross between an Italian bar and English pub. They’ve got a good selection of beer and a decent wine list...and did we mention the aperitivo buffet from 18:30-21:00? There’s also a full menu of “pub” fare, with sandwiches, pasta and meat courses.

Bar San Calisto Via del Politeama, 4-6 +39 6 5833 4210 www.freniefrizioni.com

Rome’s hippest early evening spot, frequented by arty types and a creative, student crowd. A grand buffet of food (19:00-22:00) is laid out on a snowy white tablecloth decorated with armfuls of long-stemmed roses and candles. There are baskets of focaccia, ceramic bowls of couscous and pasta, guacamole and raw vegetables: help yourself while Piazza San Calisto you sip a cocktail, a beer, or a glass of (no phone) well-priced wine. Unwitting tourists get their coffee or beer on piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.

6 Locals who know better go to this bar. Its harsh lighting would make Sophia Loren look wan, and the dingy space – inside and out – is no picture postcard. But it’s dirt-cheap and as such it has always been the haunt of arty and fringe types (plus many questionable characters after sundown). They’re here downing beers or an affogato (ice-cream swamped with liqueur), or savouring some of the best chocolate in Rome: hot and thick with fresh whipped cream in winter, and in the form of creamy gelato in warmer months. focus here, with a satisfying range by the glass from EUR 2.50, but if you’re hungry, Circolo degli Artisti there’s a choice of cheeses, salamis and salads too.

La Vineria Campo de’ Fiori, 15 +39 6 6880 3268

The oldest wine bar on the campo, La Vineria is the real thing, where Romans go to chat and plan their evenings over good wines by the glass starting at a remarkably cheap €1.50 (albeit in tiny glasses). By aperitivo time, it’s a dog-eat- Via Casilina Vecchia, 42 dog battle to grab a table. +39 6 7030 5684 www.circoloartisti.it Linux Via Libetta, 15C This is Rome’s most popular venue for +39 6 5725 0551 small and medium-scale bands from http://linux-club.org/ international alternative music circuits. The large, cool garden is a great place for Linux is a club, a bar, a cultural associa- chatting with friends or making new ones. tion and an Internet cafe committed to Closed on Mondays. the promotion of Linux, open-source software, and the not-for-profit sector in Il Goccetto general. The decor is minimal except for Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 some flat screens. +39 6 686 4268 L’Oasi della Birra One of the more serious centro storico Piazza Testaccio, 41 wine bars, occupying part of a medieval +39 6 574 6122 bishop’s house, Il Goccetto has original painted ceilings, dark wooden walls and In the basement of an enoteca on Testac- a cosy, private-club feel. Wine is the main cio’s market square, this ‘Oasis of Beer’

7 has over 500 brews on offer. It’s one of The Druid’s Den the few places in Rome where you can Via San Martino ai , 28 track down the products of Italian mi- +39 6 4890 4781 crobreweries such as the award-winning Menabrea. The selection of wines by the Come here for a decent pint of Guinness bottle is almost as impressive. and English football. Happy hour lasts from post-siesta to 20:00 daily.

Piazza Navona

8 Taxis & Public Transportation

Taxis driver may try to charge more, but they are doing so illegally. Make sure that any taxi you take is licensed to avoid paying vastly inflated fares. Official Taxi rank locations taxis are white or yellow with the letters “SQPR” on the front door. Always ensure 1. that the meter is switched on at the start 2. Near the Vatican at Piazza of your journey. You cannot hail a taxi from Risorgimento the street so you must wait at a taxi rank or 3. Near the Vatican at Piazza Pio XII call to order one. Note that if you phone for 4. Largo Goldoni a taxi, the meter is switched on immedi- 5. ately and you pay from wherever the driver 6. receives the call. 7. Corso Rinascimento 8. The Pantheon Taxis going from the airport to the city 9. centre, and vice versa, are obliged to 10. charge passengers a standard flat rate of 11. Stazione Termini EUR 40 (including baggage and up to 12. Piazza GG Belli in Trastevere four passengers). In our experience, the 13. The

Taxi ranks in Rome, Google Maps

9 To book a taxi by phone, try the following: Piazza San Silvestro. Buses generally run from about 5.30am until midnight, with Cosmos +39 6 8 81 77 limited services throughout the night on La Capitale +39 6 49 94 some routes. Pronto Taxi +39 6 66 45 Radio Taxi +39 6 35 70 Once in the city centre, Rome’s metro Samarcanda +39 6 55 51 system is of limited value to visitors, with Tevere +39 6 41 57 the two lines, A and B, bypassing much of the “centro storico”. The two lines Other Public Transport traverse the city in an X-shape, cross- Rome’s buses and trams are run by ATAC ing at Stazione Termini, the only point at (800 43 17 84; www.atac.roma.it). The which you can change from one line to main bus station is in front of Stazione the other. Trains run approximately every Termini on Piazza dei Cinquecento, where five to 10 minutes between 05:30-23.30 there’s an information booth, open from (one hour later on Saturday). 07.30-20:00. The metro stops nearest to the Westin Other important hubs are at Largo di Excelsior are the Spagna and Barberini Torre Argentina, Piazza Venezia and metro stops.

10 Helpful Italian Words & Phrases to Know

Key to abbreviations: sg = singular (said to one person), pl = plural (said to more than one person), inf = informal, frm = formal, m = male (said by males), f = female (said by females), >m = said to males, >f = said to females.

English Italiano (Italian)

Hello Ciao/Salve/Pronto? (on phone) What’s your name? Come ti chiami? (inf) Come si chiama? (frm) My name is... Mi chiamo... Where are you from? Da dove vieni? Di dove sei? (inf) Da dove viene? Di dov’è? (frm) I’m from... Vengo da..., Sono di... Good morning Buongiorno Good afternoon Buongiorno/Buon pomeriggio Good evening Buonasera Good night Buonanotte Goodbye Ciao/Ci vediamo/Arrivederci/Arrivederla (frm) I don’t understand Non capisco/Non ho capito Please speak more slowly Può parlare più lentamente? Please write it down Può scriverlo, per favore? (frm) Puoi scriverlo, per favore? (inf) How do you say... in Italian? Come si dice...in italiano? Excuse me Scusa! Scusami! (inf) Scusi! Mi scusi! (frm) How much is this? Quanto costa? Sorry Scusa! (inf) Scusi! (frm) Mi dispiace Thank you Grazie/Molte grazie/Grazie mille Where’s the toilet? Dov’è la toilette?/Dov’è il bagno? Leave me alone! Lasciami in pace! Vattene! (inf) Mi lasci in pace!/ Se ne vada! (frm) Help! Aiuto! Fire! Al fuoco! Stop! Stop! Alt! Ferma! Call the police! Chiama la polizia! (inf) Chiami la polizia! (frm/sg) Chiamate la polizia! (inf) Chiamino la polizia! (frm/pl)

11 My hovercraft is full of eels Il mio hovercraft/aeroscivolante è pieno di anguille I would like to reserve a Vorrei prenotare un tavolo per cinque persone. table for five people. A table for three please. Un tavolo per tre, per cortesia. A glass of red wine. Un bicchiere di vino rosso. Can we have the bill please? Ci può portare il conto per favore?

At the restaurant

A Cannella: cinnamon Abbacchio: lamb Cannellini: white kidney beans Aceto: vinegar : filled pastry tubes Affumicato: smoked Caponata: eggplant relish Aglio: garlic Capperi: capers Aglio e olio: garlic and oil Cappone: capon Agnello: lamb Carciofi: artichokes Agrodolce: sweet/sour Carne: meat Al dente: firm (literally to the tooth) Cassata: a Sicilian cream-filled layer cake Al forno: dish from the oven Cavolfiore: cauliflower Al sangue: rare (referring to a steak) Cavolo: cabbage Al vapore: steamed Ceci: chick peas Anguilla: eel Cipolle: onions Aragosta: lobster Coda alla vaccinara: made with Arancia: orange oxtails Arancini: fried rice balls with meat or Conserva: preserves other filling Cotolette: cutlets Arrostito/arrosto: roasted Cotto: cooked Asparagi: asparagus Cozze: mussels Crespelle: crepes B Crostata: a sweet or savory Birra: beer Crudo: raw Bistecca: steak Bollito misto: mixed boiled meats served D with various sauces Dolci: sweets and pastries Braciolette: small beef rolls Braciole: stuffed meat rolls F Brodo: broth Fagioli: beans Bruschetta: toasted bread served with Farcito/imbottito/ripieno: stuffed or filled various toppings Farro: an ancient grain similar to spelt Budino: pudding Fegato: liver Fico: fig C Filetto: fillet Cacciatora: hunter’s style Finocchio: fennel Calamari: squid Focaccia: flatbread served plain or with

12 various toppings P Fragole: strawberries Pajata: intestines of an ‘unweaned’ calf Frittata: an open-faced omelet Pancetta: salt-cured pork, unsmoked Frittelle: fritters bacon Fritto: fried Pane: bread Frutta: fruit Panettone: a fruit-filled yeast bread Frutti di mare: seafood Pangrattato: bread crumbs Funghi: mushrooms Panna Cotta: literally ‘cooked cream,’ served for dessert G Panna montata: whipped cream Gamberetti: shrimp Pasta Frolla: pastry dough Gardiniera: mixed pickled vegetables Pasticcio: , pastry, or cake Gnocchi: dumplings eaten with a sauce Pecorino: sheep’s milk cheese or in broth Peperoncini: dried red chiles Grana Padano: a cow’s milk hard cheese Piccante: spicy Granchio: crab Pignoli: pine nuts Grappa: liqueur made from the must of Piselli: peas grapes Pizza Dolce: cake or sweet bread Grigliato/alla griglia: grilled Polenta: a type of cornmeal Grissini: breadsticks Polipi: octopus Pollo: chicken L Polpette: meatballs Lauro: bayleaf Pomodori: tomatoes Lenticchie: lentils Porchetta: whole roast pig cooked with Limone: lemon herbs and garlic Lumache alla romana: Roman-style snails Porcini: meaty wild mushrooms Prosciutto: salt-cured, air-dried pork M Provolone: a straw-white cheese, some- Maiale: pork times smoked Mandorle: almonds Puntarelle con acciughe: wild chicory in Manzo: beef an anchovy and garlic sauce Marinara: a plain tomato sauce Marsala: a rich brown fortified wine R Mascarpone: creamy, soft, mild cheese Ragu: meat sauce for pasta Melanzane: eggplant Ribollita: Tuscan bread and vegetable Minestra: soup (usually thick) soup Minestrina: thin soup Riso: rice Mortadella: cured and spiced pork sausage Risotto: rice cooked and stirred with Mosto Cotto: grape juice cooked to form broth until creamy thick dark syrup Romano: a hard Pecorino cheese

N S Nocciole: hazelnuts Salame: ground meat cured, seasoned Noce Moscata: nutmeg and shaped like a sausage Noci: walnuts Salato: salty Salsa: sauce O Salsiccia: sausage Origano: oregano Saltimbocca alla romana: veal rolled with Ostriche: oysters prosciutto and sage

13 Salumi: collective name for salami and Trippa: Tripe cooked with tomatoes similar cured meats Salvia: sage U Sambuca: a colorless liqueur made from Uova: eggs anise Uva: grapes Sarde: sardines Scaloppine: thinly sliced meat V Sedani: celery Verdure: green vegetables Sfogliatelle: Neopolitan pastry filled with Vitello: veal (calf) flavored ricotta Vongole: clams Sopressata: a type of salami Spagna/Pan di Spagna: sponge cake Z Spiedini: anything cooked on a skewer Zabaglione/zabaione: whipped egg cus- Stufato: stewed tard serve as dessert or a sauce Sughi: sauces Zafferano: saffron Sugo di carne: meat sauce Zampone: sausage-stuffed pig’s foot Zenzero: ginger T : a fried pastry Taralli: round sweet or savory biscuits Zucca: squash Tonno: tuna Zuppa: soup Torta: tart

“We are against war and tourist menu”

14 Surviving the Streets of Rome by Emilio the Roman

1. Cross the streets on the pedestrian 4. Seriously: cross the streets on the crossing lines. “Look, there are no cars pedestrian crossing lines. coming. Let’s cross now” are the last words of many tourists. 5. Be aware of pickpockets, no matter how poor and innocent they look. They 2. Cross the streets on the pedestrian are masters of disguises. crossing lines. 6. Be patient. The famous Roman 3. Make sure you understand rules #1 proverb, “Rome was not built in a day”, and #2 before reading further. still stands true. Romans take it slow, and you should too.

Want to Know More? Read on...

In General Shopping

“36 Hours in Rome” – The New York “Places to Shop” – The Telegraph Times http://bit.ly/ftOkW http://nyti.ms/aUNz3b Via Condotti, Via Frattina and Via Del “48 Hours in Rome” – The Independent Corso are some of the more popular http://ind.pn/aKfzJh shopping streets. Please note that many stores in Rome are closed on Sundays, Rome – Lonely Planet even in the city centre. http://bit.ly/gOGBs Sightseeing Culture “Neighbourhoods in Rome” – Frommers “20 Great Things to do in Rome” – Time Out http://bit.ly/aV0xJ2 http://bit.ly/33vPlP Walking Tours “Top 10 Passions of Ancient Rome” – #1 – http://bit.ly/9mc6Ex The Independent #2 – http://bit.ly/dD7lEc http://ind.pn/ch5qcp #3 – http://bit.ly/aMt6G1 #4 – http://bit.ly/dryEgG “Films to see before you go to Rome” – #5 – http://on.natgeo.com/c3fFeh Lonely Planet http://bit.ly/b05uqO

15 Important Contact Information

Westin Excelsior Hotel Ambulance +39 (06) 47081 118

Rome Police Fire Department 113 or 112 115 Centre of Rome, Google Maps

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