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Monti, Esquilino and San Lorenzo PDF Rome Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo (PDF Chapter) COVERAGE INCLUDES: Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 27 • Neighbourhood Top • Sleeping Page Range 140–157, 214–222 Five • Local Life Useful Links • Getting There & Want more guides? Away Head to our shop • Sights Trouble with your PDF? • Eating Trouble shoot here • Drinking & Nightlife Need more help? • Entertainment Head to our FAQs • Shopping Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 140 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo MONTI | ESQUILINO | PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA & AROUND | SAN LORENZO & BEYOND | SAN LORENZO Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Visiting the Palazzo 3 Hobnobbing with the 5 Exploring the under- Massimo alle Terme (p142), bohos in Pigneto (p151), the ground wonders of Domus with its incredible frescoes iconic working-class district Aurea (p144), Nero’s great, from imperial Rome. immortalised by Pasolini. golden palace that now lies 2 Lingering at wine bars 4 Taking in the splendours beneath Oppian Hill. and pottering around the of Basilica di Santa Maria bohemian-chic neighbour- Maggiore (p143). hood of Monti (p145). 111111 e 1 1111 br Vi V Vi ia 111111 a l a a P ale de e 1 111n 1 ai alestr R ti Settem 1111r 11 eg TIBURTINO u rini XX à in 1 111ib 1 be 00a0 a Cern CASTRO o it 000 ar 000 l rs a 1111 T 11 B Vi Vi e 000ia 000 PRETORIO C niv E ia 000V 000 U l 1 1111 000 000 a ll' e V st de n TREVI 000000 ale a 111111 Pi00azza0 della r Vi 000 o 1 1111 Re00pubb0lica 00 Cimitero Giardino 000 Pr 000011110 11 Vi Stazione Pi00azzale000 del Quirinale e 000001 111di Campo1 e a Termini t 00Sa00n0 l or 000011110 Verano11 a To 000 £# i Lorenz1o 1111 ri 1# Vi an no a amni 111111 o R 00 V a Nazion Ma 1 1111 00 ia Vi a 00 000 rs a del in 111111 00 M 000 al Vi rt i 0000000 0 a u 1 1111 la 0000000 ES0QUILINO V ib n 0000000a Cavour 0 ia T 111111 o 000000Vi0 0 G ia SAN LORENZO 00000 i V i 1 1111 ta00004# 0 V ov sc ina MONTI San 00000 ia a ol 111111rt Via di A C n V ibu iore00000 a n i 1 111e T 1 Magg00000 lb r i de nvallazion Maria e lo G a o 2# rt io Vi rc o lit i ti C n iovan i Lanza Pi00azza0 Via G 000 00 Vi00ttorio0 V 00 00 000 ia P 00 00 Emanuele II E rin V u ci 00 V g pe 00V i en i a i i a a o Via d M d 00000 ei Parco del E M i Por00000 F e m a 0000Pi0azza o r gg ta 000000r 0 Colle Oppio u 00000 i Im 5# a ior 000000pe 0 l n e0000di0 Porta 000000ri 0 a 00000 Piazza a u Via 0000000li n 0000Magg0 iore a Prene a e stina 0000000 00000 n del l la 0000000V e ia 0000o 0 i i ia til m t qu 0000000 d ta 0000a 0 r 'A Co000000losseo 0 i S Via F S ni L a L i ia o u ia 0000000 n a l V G b i r b V 0000000 icana b e i io N T # Vi 3 0000000 v e an to e 0000000 n r ot a i in t d n o e o PIGNETO C La u i Parco San te 0000000000q z V a r c i 0000000000an A la a Sebastiano p 0000000000o al C o 00000000000000 onv a 00000000000000V Circ s d' ia ezia il LATERAN00000000000000 La Sp in Af 0000000000a 0000A ia a 0000000000Piazza0000 di p V TUSCOLANO 0000000000mb p ri ia CAMPITELLI 0000000000A Porta San c ll'0000000000m N a u 0000000000Giovanni o 01km 0000000000da v e# a de a0000000000 a 00.5 miles Vi Ar0000000000 For more detail of this area see Map p320 and p319 A 141 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Monti, Esquilino Top Tip & San Lorenzo Don’t neglect to visit the Esquilino is one of Rome’s seven hills, and the area en- oft-overlooked patriarchal compasses the sometimes scruffy area around Stazione Basilica di San Lorenzo Termini and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. It is also home Fuori le Mura (p147) – it’s to some fantastic sights, including some of Rome’s finest starkly beautiful. medieval churches, and the Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, which displays stunning classical art. 5 Best Places Heading downhill, Monti was the ancient city’s noto- to Eat rious Suburra slum – a red-light district and the child- hood home of Julius Caesar – but is now a charming ¨ L’Asino d’Oro (p148) neighbourhood of inviting eateries, shops and enoteche ¨ Trattoria Monti (p150) (wine bars) that’s ever more popular with tourists and ¨ Open Colonna (p150) hip locals. ¨ Panella l’Arte del Pane San Lorenzo is a lively student quarter east of Termi- (p149) ni, home to the beautiful but little-visited Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura. It was the area most damaged by For reviews, see p148.A Allied bombing during WWII, which is ironic given the area’s vehemently anti-Fascist politics. By day the area Best Places feels hungover, a grid of graffitied streets that nonethe- 6 less harbour some gemlike boutiques, but after dark it to Drink shows its true colours as a student nightlife haunt; it’s ¨ Ai Tre Scalini (p152) also home to some excellent restaurants. ¨ La Bottega del Caffè A quick tram ride (and on Metro line C when it’s (p152) finished) southeast, Pigneto also has edge, the Roman ¨ Il Tiaso (p151) equivalent of London’s Dalston. Its ever-burgeoning bars MONTI, ESQUILINO & and restaurants attract a regular crowd of artists and ¨ Co.So (p151) boho urbanites. For reviews, see p152.A Local Life 1 Best Works ¨Hang-outs While away an hour or so at Monti’s La of Art Bottega del Caffè (p152), watching the world go by. ¨ Frescoes at Palazzo ¨ Shopping Potter around the vintage and fashion Massimo alle Terme (p142) boutiques of Via Serpenti and Via Boschetto in Monti. ¨ S Michelangelo’s colossal AN ¨Drinking Have a drink amid artists, bohos, hipsters, Moses (p144) and wannabes in buzzing Pigneto. L ¨ Fuga’s 13th-century OR facade mosaics (p143) E ¨ Richard Meier’s NZO Getting There & Away modernist Chiesa Dio Padre ¨Metro The Cavour metro stop (line B) is most Misericordioso (p145) convenient for Monti, while the Termini (lines A and B), For reviews, see p144.A Castro Pretorio (line B) and Vittorio Emanuele (line A) stations are useful for Esquilino. The section of line C that will serve Pigneto won’t be completed until 2020. ¨Bus Termini is the city’s main bus hub, connected to places all over the city. Access Monti from buses stopping on Via Nazionale or Via Cavour. San Lorenzo is served by buses 71 and 492; Pigneto is served by buses 81, 810 and 105, and night bus n12. ¨Tram This is an easy way to access San Lorenzo (tram 3) or Pigneto and Centocelle (trams 5, 14 or 19). MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO: PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME DEA / ARCHIVIO J. LANGE / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / LANGE J. ARCHIVIO / DEA One of Rome’s finest museums, this light-filled DON’T MISS… treasure trove is packed with spectacular classical art yet remains off the beaten track. It’s not to be missed. ¨ The Boxer We recommend you start your visit on the 2nd floor, so ¨ Sleeping you see its wonders when you’re fresh. The sensational fres- Hermaphrodite coes give a more complete picture of the inside of grand an- ¨ Frescoes from cient Roman villas than you’ll see anywhere else in the world. Villa Livia They include scenes from nature, mythology, and domestic and sensual life, using rich, vivid (and expensive) colours. The showstopper is the decoration covering an entire PRACTICALITIES room from Villa Livia, one of the homes of Augustus’ wife ¨ Map p320 Livia Drusilla. The frescoes depict a paradisiacal garden ¨ %06 3996 7700 full of a wild tangle of roses, violets, pomegranates, irises ¨ and camomile under a deep-blue sky. These decorated a www.coopculture.it summer triclinium, a large living and dining area built ¨ Largo di Villa Peretti 1 half underground to provide protection from the heat. The ¨ adult/reduced lighting mimics the modulation of daylight and highlights €7/3.50 the richness of the millennia-old colours. ¨ h9am-7.45pm The ground and 1st floors are devoted to sculpture, Tue-Sun examining imperial portraiture as propaganda and in- ¨ mTermini cluding some breathtaking works of art, including the 2nd-century-BC Greek bronzes, the Boxer and the Prince, a crouching Aphrodite from Villa Adriana, the 2nd-centu- ry-BC Sleeping Hermaphrodite (pictured above), and the idealised vision of the Discus Thrower. Also fascinating are the elaborate bronze fittings that belonged to Caligula’s ceremonial ships. In the basement, the coin collection is far more absorbing than you might expect, trac- ing the Roman Empire’s propaganda offensive via coinage.
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