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Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo (PDF Chapter) COVERAGE INCLUDES: Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 27 • Neighbourhood Top • Sleeping Page Range 140–157, 214–222 Five • Local Life Useful Links • Getting There & Want more guides? Away Head to our shop • Sights Trouble with your PDF? • Eating Trouble shoot here • Drinking & Nightlife Need more help? • Entertainment Head to our FAQs • Shopping Stay in touch Contact us here

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Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo MONTI | ESQUILINO | PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA & AROUND | SAN LORENZO & BEYOND | SAN LORENZO

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Visiting the Palazzo 3 Hobnobbing with the 5 Exploring the under- Massimo alle Terme (p142), bohos in Pigneto (p151), the ground wonders of Domus with its incredible frescoes iconic working-class district Aurea (p144), ’s great, from imperial Rome. immortalised by Pasolini. golden palace that now lies 2 Lingering at wine bars 4 Taking in the splendours beneath . and pottering around the of Basilica di Santa Maria bohemian-chic neighbour- Maggiore (p143). hood of Monti (p145).

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Local Life 1 Best Works ¨Hang-outs While away an hour or so at Monti’s La of Art Bottega del Caffè (p152), watching the world go by. ¨¨Frescoes at Palazzo ¨Shopping Potter around the vintage and fashion ­Massimo alle Terme (p142) boutiques of Via Serpenti and Via Boschetto in Monti. ¨ ¨Michelangelo’s colossal an L ¨Drinking Have a drink amid artists, bohos, hipsters, Moses (p144) and wannabes in buzzing Pigneto.

¨¨Fuga’s 13th-century e or facade mosaics (p143) ¨¨Richard Meier’s nzo Getting There & Away ­modernist Chiesa Dio Padre

 (Metro The Cavour metro stop (line B) is most Misericordioso (p145¨ convenient for Monti, while the Termini (lines A and B), For reviews, see p144.A (line B) and Vittorio Emanuele (line A) stations are useful for Esquilino. The section of line C that will serve Pigneto won’t be completed until 2020. ¨Bus Termini is the city’s main bus hub, connected to places all over the city. Access Monti from buses stopping on Via Nazionale or Via Cavour. San Lorenzo is served by buses 71 and 492; Pigneto is served by buses 81, 810 and 105, and night bus n12. ¨Tram This is an easy way to access San Lorenzo (tram 3) or Pigneto and Centocelle (trams 5, 14 or 19). MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO: PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME DEA / ARCHIVIO J.LANGE /GETTY IMAGES © One of Rome’s finest museums, this light-filled DON’T MISS… treasure trove is packed with spectacular classical art yet remains off the beaten track. It’s not to be missed. ¨¨The Boxer We recommend you start your visit on the 2nd floor, so ¨¨Sleeping you see its wonders when you’re fresh. The sensational fres- ­Hermaphrodite coes give a more complete picture of the inside of grand an- ¨¨Frescoes from cient Roman villas than you’ll see anywhere else in the world. Villa Livia They include scenes from nature, mythology, and domestic and sensual life, using rich, vivid (and expensive) colours. The showstopper is the decoration covering an entire PRACTICALITIES room from Villa Livia, one of the homes of Augustus’ wife ¨¨Map p320 Livia Drusilla. The frescoes depict a paradisiacal garden ¨¨%06 3996 7700 full of a wild tangle of roses, violets, pomegranates, irises ¨ and camomile under a deep-blue sky. These decorated a ¨www.coopculture.it summer triclinium, a large living and dining area built ¨¨Largo di Villa Peretti­ 1 half underground to provide protection from the heat. The ¨¨adult/reduced lighting mimics the modulation of daylight and highlights €7/3.50 the richness of the millennia-old colours. ¨¨h9am-7.45pm The ground and 1st floors are devoted to sculpture, Tue-Sun examining imperial portraiture as propaganda and in- ¨¨mTermini cluding some breathtaking works of art, including the 2nd-century-BC Greek bronzes, the Boxer and the Prince, a crouching Aphrodite from Villa Adriana, the 2nd-centu- ry-BC Sleeping Hermaphrodite (pictured above), and the idealised vision of the Discus Thrower. Also fascinating are the elaborate bronze fittings that belonged to Caligula’s ceremonial ships. In the basement, the coin collection is far more absorbing than you might expect, trac- ing the Roman Empire’s propaganda offensive via coinage. There’s also jewellery dating back several millennia that looks as good as new, and the disturbing remains of a mum- mified eight-year-old girl, the only known example of mummification dating from the Roman Empire. BASILICA DI DEA / G. NIMATALLAH / GETTY IMAGES © One of Rome’s four patriarchal basilicas, this DON’T MISS… monumental church stands on the summit of the Esquilino Hill, on the spot where snow is said to have ¨¨The loggia fallen in the summer of AD 358. To commemorate ¨¨Cosmatesque floor the event, every year on 5 August thousands of white ¨¨Jacopo Torriti apse petals are released from the basilica’s coffered ceiling. mosaics Outside, the 18.78m-high column came from the basilica of Massenzio in the . The church exterior is PRACTICALITIES decorated by 13th-century mosaics, protected by a baroque porch. The 75m belfry, the highest in Rome, is 14th-century ¨¨Map p320 Romanesque. ¨¨Piazza Santa Maria The great interior retains its 5th-century structure, as Maggiore well as the original mosaics in the triumphal arch and ¨¨basilica/museum/ nave. The central image in the apse, signed by Jacopo Tor- riti, dates from the 13th century. loggia/archaeological Twelth-century Cosmati paving covers the nave floor. site free/€3/5/5 The baldachin over the high altar practically squirms with ¨¨h7am-7pm, museum gilt cherubs; the altar itself is a porphyry sarcophagus, & loggia 9am-5.30pm said to contain the relics of St Matthew and other martyrs. ¨¨gPiazza Santa Gian Lorenzo Bernini and his father Pietro are buried to Maria Maggiore the right of the altar, their graves marked by a simple stone embedded in the floor. Don’t miss the upper loggia, the extraordinary creation of Ferdinando Fuga, where you’ll get a closer look at the 13th-century mosaics, created by Filippo Rusuti. You’ll also see Bernini’s baroque helical staircase. 144 1 SIGHTS fire of AD 64 (which it’s rumoured he had started to clear the area). Named after the gold that lined its facade and interiors, it 1 was a huge complex covering up to a third Monti of the city. The excavated part of the site has BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO been repeatedly closed due to flooding, but IN VINCOLI BASILICA opened for weekend guided tours from late Map p320 (Piazza di 4a; 2014; check the website for current opening h8am-12.20pm & 3-7pm summer, to 6pm winter; ­status. mCavour) Pilgrims and art lovers flock to The palace was full of architectural inven- this 5th-century basilica for two reasons: tion, a more splendid palace than had ever to marvel at Michelangelo’s colossal Moses been seen before. However, Nero’s successors (1505) sculpture and to see the chains that attempted to raze all trace of his megaloma- supposedly bound St Peter when he was im- nia. Vespasian drained Nero’s ornamental prisoned in the Carcere Mamertino (near lake and, in a symbolic gesture, built the Col- the Roman Forum). osseum in its place. Domitian built a palace Access to the church is via a flight of on the Palatino, while Trajan sacked and de- steps through a low arch that leads up from stroyed the 1st floor and then entombed the Via Cavour. lower level in earth and used it for the foun- The church was built specially to house dations of his public baths complex, which the shackles of St Peter, which had been was abandoned by the 6th century. This sent to Constantinople after the saint’s burial of the palace preserved it; the section death, but were later returned as relics. that has been excavated lies beneath Oppian They arrived in two pieces and legend has Hill. Wear warm clothes when visiting as the it that when they were reunited they mi- palace now lies underground and is damp. raculously joined together. They are now Remarkably, the humidity has helped pre- displayed under the altar. serve the frescoes in the chambers, though To the right of the altar, Michelangelo’s this may only be seen in one small cleaned Monti, Esquilino & Esquilino S Monti, Moses forms the centrepiece of his unfin- area – the rest have not been restored. Tours ished tomb for Pope Julius II. The prophet last an hour and 15 minutes and are guided strikes a muscular pose with well-defined by archaeologists who are extremely know­ biceps, a magnificent waist-length beard ledgable about the site. and two small horns sticking out of his During the Renaissance, artists lowered head. These were inspired by a mistrans- themselves into the ruins, climbing across lation of a biblical passage: where the the top of Trajan’s rubble to study the fres- original said that rays of light issued from coed grottoes, and Raphael reproduced some Moses’ face, the translator wrote ‘horns’. of their motifs in his work on the Vatican. Michelangelo was aware of the mistake, but

an L gave Moses horns anyway. Flanking Moses MUSEO NAZIONALE D’ARTE are statues of Leah and Rachel, probably ORIENTALE MUSEUM

e or completed by Michelangelo’s students. Map p320 (%06 4697 4823; www.museorientale. The tomb, despite its imposing scale, was beniculturali.it; 248; adult/reduced nzo never finished – Michelangelo originally €6/3; h9am-2pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 9am-7.30pm envisaged 40 statues, but got sidetracked Thu, Sat & Sun; mVittorio Emanuele) This little-

S by the – and Pope Julius II visited but impressive collection is housed ights was buried in St Peter’s Basilica. in the grandiose 19th-century Palazzo Bran- caccio. It includes 5th-century-BC Iranian glassware, items from the ancient settlement 1 of Swat in Pakistan, 12th-century home- Esquilino wares from Afghanistan, engraved ritual BASILICA DI SANTA vessels from China dating to between 800 MARIA MAGGIORE BASILICA BC and 900 BC, and a new Korean gallery See p143. with bronzes, seals and contemporary art.

DOMUS AUREA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE CHIESA DI SANTA CROCE IN Map p320 (Golden House; %06 3996 7700; www. GERUSALEMME CHURCH coopculture.it; Viale della ; admisson Map p319 (www.santacroceroma.it; Piazza di €10; hguided tours Sat & Sun; mColosseo) Nero Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 12; h7am-12.45pm had his Domus Aurea constructed after the & 3.30-7.30pm; gPiazza di ) 145 One of Rome’s seven pilgrimage churches, the Chiesa di Santa Croce was founded in CHIESA DIO PADRE 320 by St Helena, mother of the emperor MISERICORDIOSO Constantine, in the grounds of her palace. It takes its name from the Christian relics It’s worth making the effort to visit here – including a piece of Christ’s cross Rome’s minimalist church, Chiesa Dio and St Thomas’ doubting finger – that St Padre Misericordioso (www.diopadre­ Helena brought to Rome from Jerusalem, misericordioso.it/; Via Francesco Tovaglieri housed in a chapel to the left of the altar. 147; h7.30am-12.30pm & 4-7.30pm; gVia Of particular note are the lovely 15th- Francesco Tovaglieri 147), for a refreshing century Renaissance apse frescoes repre- departure from the excesses of baroque senting the legends of Christ’s cross. or classicism. This beautiful white Richard Meier creation is pared down, NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MUSICAL resulting in a remarkable-feeling purity. INSTRUMENTS MUSEUM It’s built out of white concrete, stucco, Map p319 (%06 3 28 10; Piazza di Santa Croce in gleaming travertine and 976 sq m of Gerusalemm; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h9am- glass, making use of the play of light 7pm Tue-Sun; gPiazza di Porta Maggiore) This both inside and out. little-known museum behind the church of Santa Croce stands on the site of the former home of St Helena. It’s undeservedly and re- on the left. All the figures have golden ha- freshingly deserted, with a collection of over los except for Paschal, whose head is shad- 3000 exquisite musical instruments that in- owed by a blue nimbus to indicate that he cludes gorgeously painted, handle-operated was still alive at the time. Further treasures 18th-century Neapolitan street pianos, and await in the heavily mosaiced Cappella di one of the oldest known pianos (1722). San Zenone, including a piece of the col- umn to which Christ was tied when he was CHIESA DI CHURCH flogged, brought back from Jerusalem – it’s

Map p320 (www.stpudenziana.org; Via Urbana 160; in the glass case on the right. & Esquilino S Monti, h9am-noon & 3-6pm; mCavour) The church of Rome’s Filipino community contains a spar- CHIESA DI CHURCH kling 4th-century apse mosaic, the oldest Map p320 (Viale del Monte Oppio 28; h9 am- of its kind in the city. An enthroned Christ noon & 4.30-7pm; mCavour) This was already is flanked by two female figures who are a place of worship in the 3rd century, when crowning St Peter and St Paul; on either side Christians would meet in what was then of them are the apostles dressed as Roman the home of a Roman named Equitius. In senators. Unfortunately, you can only see 10 the 4th century, after Christianity was le- of the original 12 apostles, as a barbarous galised, a church was constructed, and later rebuilt in the 6th and 9th centuries. It was 16th-century facelift lopped off two and am- an L putated the legs of the others. then completely transformed by Filippo Ga- gliardi in the 1650s. e or CHIESA DI CHURCH It’s of particular interest for Gagliardi’s

Map p320 (Via Santa Prassede 9a; h7.30am-noon frescoes showing the Basilica di San Gio- nzo & 4-6.30pm; gPiazza Santa Maria Maggiore) vanni in Laterano before it was rebuilt in

the mid-17th century and St Peter’s Basilica Famous for its brilliant mosaics, this 9th-­ S century church is dedicated to St Praxedes, before it assumed its present 16th-century ights an early Christian heroine who hid Chris- look. Remnants of the more distant past tians fleeing persecution and buried those include the ancient Corinthian columns di- she couldn’t save in a well. The position of viding the nave and aisles. the well is now marked by a marble disc on the floor of the nave. CHIESA DI SANTA LUCIA IN SELCI CHURCH The mosaics, produced by artists who Map p320 (Via in Selci 82; h8am-noon & 2-6pm; were specially brought in by Pope Paschal I mCavour) The small Chiesa di Santa Lucia from Byzantium, bear all the hallmarks of in Selci is a convent church devoted to the their eastern creators, with bold gold back- 4th-century martyr St Lucy. It dates to grounds and a marked Christian symbol- some time before the 8th century, but was ism. The apse mosaics depict Christ flanked reconstructed by Carlo Maderno in the by Sts Peter, Pudentiana and Zeno on the 16th century, who kept it within the then right, and Paul, Praxedes and Pope Paschal monastery, hence the lack of a facade. It 146 gated, tortured and imprisoned in the cells COMBINED TICKET and you can still see graffiti scrawled on the walls by condemned prisoners. Note that the ticket (adult/reduced Exhibits chart the events of the occupa- €7/3.50, or €10/6.50 when there’s tion, covering the persecution of the Jews, an exhibition) for the Crypta Balbi and the underground resistance and the Fosse Palazzo Altemps (Centro Storico), Ardeatina massacre. Palazzo Massimo, Terme di Diocle- ziano, and Aula Ottagona (Termini) combines admission for all five sites 1 but is only valid for three days, so Piazza della Repubblica plan accordingly. Another worthwhile & Around investment could be an Archaeologia MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO: Card (€27.50; valid seven days), which PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME MUSEUM covers these sights as well as the Col- See p142. osseum, Palatino, Terme di Caracalla, Villa dei Quintilli and Cecilia Metella. MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO: It’s available at any of the sights. TERME DI DIOCLEZIANO MUSEUM Map p320 (%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale Enrico de Nicola 78; adult/reduced €7/3.50; was later restored by Borromini in the 17th h9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; mTermini) The Terme century. di Diocleziano was ’s largest bath complex, covering about 13 hectares PIAZZA VITTORIO EMANUELE II PIAZZA and with a capacity for 3000 people. Today Map p320 (mVittorio Emanuele) Laid out in its ruins constitute part of the impressive the late 19th century as the centrepiece of Museo Nazionale Romano. This branch of an upmarket residential district, but today the supplies a with a rundown, seedy feel, Rome’s biggest fascinating insight into Roman life through Monti, Esquilino & Esquilino S Monti, square is a grassy expanse, surrounded memorial inscriptions and other artefacts. by speeding traffic, porticoes and bargain Outside, the vast, elegant cloister was con- stores. Within the fenced-off central sec- structed from drawings by Michelangelo. tion are the ruins of Trofei di Mario, once a It’s lined with classical sarcophagi, head- fountain at the end of an aqueduct. less statues and huge sculptured animal In the northern corner, the Chiesa di heads, thought to have come from the Foro Sant’Eusebio is popular with pet-owners di Traiano. who bring their companions to be blessed Elsewhere in the museum, look out for ex- on St Anthony’s feast day (17 January). hibits relating to cults and the early develop- ment of Christianity and Judaism. There’s a PORTA MAGGIORE MONUMENT an L particularly interesting section about amu- g Map p319 (Piazza di Porta Maggiore; Porta Mag- lets and spells, which were cast on neigh- giore) Porta Maggiore was built by Claudius e or bours and acquaintances to bring them bad in AD 52. Then, as now, it was a major road luck and worse. Upstairs exhibits tomb ob-

nzo junction under which passed the two main jects dating from the 11th to 9th centuries southbound roads, Via Prenestina and Via BC, including jewellery and amphora.

Labicana (modern-day Via Casilina). The S As you wander the museum, you’ll see ights arch supported two aqueducts – the Acqua glimpses of the original complex, which Claudia and the Acqua Aniene Nuova – and was completed in the early 4th century as was later incorporated into the Aurelian a state-of-the-art combination of baths, Wall. libraries, concert halls and gardens – the Aula Ottagona and Basilica di Santa Maria MUSEO STORICO DELLA degli Angeli buildings were also once part LIBERAZIONE MUSEUM of this enormous endeavour. It fell into dis- Map p319 (%06 700 38 66; www.viatasso.eu; Via repair after the aqueduct that fed the baths Tasso 145; h9.30am-12.30pm Tue-Sun, 3.30- was destroyed by invaders in about AD 536. 7.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri; mManzoni) F Now a small, chilling museum, Via Tasso 145 was AULA OTTAGONA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE the headquarters of the German SS during Map p320 (Piazza della Repubblica; hvaries; the Nazi occupation of Rome (1943–44). mRepubblica) The soaring, atmospheric Oc- Members of the Resistance were interro- tagonal Hall was part of the ancient struc- 147 ture of the Terme di Diocleziano, and today central figure of Glaucus wrestling a fish, forms a beautiful vaulted space that houses was considered too provocative – how temporary exhibitions, often of sculpture. has changed! Each reclines on a creature symbolising water in a different form: a BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA water snake (rivers), a swan (lakes), a lizard DEGLI ANGELI BASILICA (streams) and a sea-horse (oceans). Map p320 (www.santamariadegliangeliroma.it; Pi- azza della Repubblica; mRepubblica) This hulk- ing basilica occupies what was once the 1 San Lorenzo & Beyond central hall of Diocletian’s baths complex. It was originally designed by Michelangelo, oBASILICA DI SAN LORENZO but only the great vaulted ceiling remains FUORI LE MURA BASILICA from his plans. Map p319 (www.basilicasanlorenzo.it; Piazzale San Lorenzo; h8am-noon & 4-6.30pm; gPiaz- CHIESA DI SAN PAOLO zale del Verano) This is one of Rome’s four ENTRO LE MURA CHURCH patriarchal basilicas and is an atmospheric, Map p320 (www.stpaulsrome.it; cnr Via Nazionale tranquil edifice that’s starker than many of & Via Napoli; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; gVia the city’s grand churches, a fact that only Nazionale) With its stripy neo-Gothic exte- adds to its breathtaking beauty. It was the rior, Rome’s American Episcopal church only one of Rome’s major churches to have has some unusual 19th-century mosaics, suffered bomb damage in WWII, and al- designed by the Birmingham-born artist though it is a hotchpotch of rebuilds and Edward Burne-Jones. restorations, it still feels harmonious. St Lawrence was burned to death in AD PALAZZO DELLE 258, and Constantine had the original ba- ESPOSIZIONI CULTURAL CENTRE silica constructed in the 4th century over Map p320 (%06 3996 7500; www.palazzoespo- his burial place, which was rebuilt 200 sizioni.it; Via Nazionale 194; h10am-8pm Tue-Thu years later. Subsequently, a nearby 5th-cen- & Sun, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat; gVia Nazionale) This tury church dedicated to the Virgin Mary & Esquilino S Monti, huge neoclassical palace was built in 1882 was incorporated into the building, result- as an exhibition centre, though it has since ing in the church you see today. The nave, served as HQ for the Italian Communist Par- portico and much of the decoration date to ty, a mess hall for Allied servicemen, a poll- the 13th century. ing station and even a public loo. Nowadays Highlights are the Cosmati floor and the it’s a splendid cultural hub, with cathedral- frescoed portico, depicting events from St scale exhibition spaces hosting blockbuster Lawrence’s life. The remains of St Lawrence art exhibitions and sleekly designed art and St Stephen are in the church crypt be- labs, as well as a bookshop and cafe. neath the high altar. A pretty barrel-vaulted

The building also hosts everything from cloister contains inscriptions and sarcopha- an L multimedia events to concert performances, gi and leads to the Catacombe di Santa Ciri-

film screenings and conferences, and has an aca, where St Lawrence was initially buried. e or excellent glass-roofed restaurant that prof- fers a bargain buffet lunch (€16) Monday to CIMITERO DI CEMETERY nzo Friday; weekend brunch costs €30. Map p319 (%06 4923 6349; www.cimiteridiroma.

h it; Piazzale del Verano; 7.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, S PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA PIAZZA to 5pm Oct-Mar; gPiazzale del Verano) The ights Map p320 (mRepubblica) Flanked by grand city’s largest cemetery dates to the Napole- 19th-century neoclassical colonnades, this onic occupation of Rome between 1804 and landmark piazza was laid out as part of 1814, when an edict ordered that the city’s Rome’s post-unification makeover. It follows dead must be buried outside the city walls. the lines of the semicircular exedra (benched Between the 1830s and the 1980s virtually portico) of Diocletian’s baths complex and all Catholics who died in Rome (with the was originally known as Piazza­ Esedra. exception of popes, cardinals and royalty) First built in 1888 to designs by Ales- were buried here. If you’re in the area, it’s sandro Guerrieri that featured four lions, worth a look for its grand tombs. On 2 No- Fontana delle Naiadi aroused puritanical vember (All Souls’ Day), thousands of Ro- ire when it was unveiled by architect Mario mans flock to the cemetery to leave flowers Rutelli in 1901. The nudity of the four nai- on the tombs of loved ones. ads (water nymphs) who surround the 148 FATAMORGANA – MONTI GELATERIA € Map p320 (Piazza Zingari; gelato from €2.50; h1pm-12.30am; mCavour) Not only is Fata- If you’re in need of a breather around morgana one of Rome’s finest artisanal Via Nazionale or are in search of gelaterias, offering delicious, gluten-free somewhere for a picnic, then take Via flavours, but you can sit and eat your choice Mazzarino off the main road and walk out on the pretty square. The large photo up the steps, past 2nd-century ruins, behind the counter is from the classic film where you’ll find a graceful, sculpture- La Banda degli Onesti (starring Totò), as dotted garden, with gravelled paths the scene was shot on this corner. and tranquil lawns, raised approxi- mately 10m above street level. GELATARIA DELL’ANGELETTO GELATERIA Map p320 (Via dell’Angeletto 15; gelato from These are the grounds of Villa Al- €2.50; hnoon-midnight; mCavour) An outpost dobrandini (Map p320; hgarden dawn- of gelato-masters Dei Gracchi, who have dusk; gVia Nazionale), overlooked by their original gelateria close to the Vatican, the house built here in the 16th century this has many wonderful seasonal flavours, by Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandini to hold from pear and caramel to apple and cinna- his extensive art collection. Today the mon, and particularly fantastico pistachio. villa is closed to the public and houses the headquarters of an international FORNO DA MILVIO PIZZA € law institute. Map p320 (%06 4893 0145; Via dei Serpenti 7; pizza slice from €3.50; h6.30am-midnight; mCavour) A small pizza al taglio (by the PASTIFICIO CERERE GALLERY slice) place that’s always busy and serves up % Map p319 ( 06 4542 2960; www.pastificiocer- a great range of deliciously light and crispy h ere.com; Via degli Ausoni 7; 3-7pm Mon-Fri, pizza. It’s a fast-and-tasty option when you g 4-8pm Sat; ) An elegant former want a cheap lunch in the –Monti

Monti, Esquilino & Esquilino S Monti, pasta factory that hung up its spaghetti area. Eat in or takeaway. racks in 1960 after 55 years of business, this is now a hub of Rome’s contemporary art oL’ASINO D’ORO ITALIAN €€ scene, with regular shows in the building’s Map p320 (%06 4891 3832; Via del Boschetto 73; gallery and courtyards. meals €45; h12.30-2.30pm Sat, 7.30-11pm Tue- The Pastificio came to prominence in the Sat; mCavour) This fabulous restaurant was 1980s as home of the Nuova Scuola Romana transplanted from Orvieto and its Umbrian (New Roman School), a group of six artists origins resonate in Lucio Sforza’s delicious, who are still here, alongside a new genera- exceptional cooking. It’s unfussy yet inno- tion that includes Maurizio Savini, famous vative, with dishes featuring lots of flavour- for his pink chewing gum sculptures.

an L ful contrasts, such as lamb meatballs with pear and blue cheese. Save room for the

e or amazing desserts. For such excellent food, 5 EATING this intimate, informal yet classy place is

nzo one of Rome’s best deals. Hours are change- able so call ahead.

E 5 ating Monti TEMAKINHO SUSHI €€ CIURI CIURI PASTRIES € Map p320 (www.temakinho.com; Via dei Serpenti Map p320 (%06 4544 4548; Via Leonina 18; snacks 16; meals €40; h12.30-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight; around €3; h8.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am mCavour) In a city where most food is still Fri & Sat; mCavour) Oh yes…what’s not to love resolutely (though deliciously) Italian, this about a Sicilian ice-cream and pastry shop? Brazilian-Japanese hybrid serves up sushi Pop by for delectable homemade sweets such and ceviche, and makes for a refreshing, as freshly filled cannoli (ricotta-filled tubes), sensational change. As well as delicious, cassata (sponge with cream, marzipan, strong caipirinhas, which combine Brazil- chocolate and candied fruit) and pasticini di ian cachaça, sugar, lime and fresh fruit, mandorla (almond pastries), all available in there are sakehinhas made with sake. It’s bite-sized versions. It’s not all sweet: there are very popular so make sure you book. also excellent freshly made arancine (fried rice balls) and other snacks. Eat in or out. 149 DALL’ANTÒ CREPERIE midnight Fri & Sat, 8.30am-4pm Sun; mVitto- Map p320 (%06 678 07 12; Via della Madonna rio Emanuele) With a magnificent array of dei Monti 16; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm pizza al taglio, arancini, focaccia, fried Sun; mCavour) In an unusual little labour of croquettes and pastries, this smart bakery- love, the owner, Antonio, takes ancient reci- cum-cafe is good any time of the day. The pes from Tuscany and Liguria, and creates outside tables are ideal for a leisurely break- pancakes, which you can watch him creat- fast or chilled evening drink, or you can ing on the state-of-the-art cooking equip- perch on a high stool and lunch on some- ment. Choose from farinata (made from thing from the sumptuous counter display. chickpea flour), testarolo (a wheat pancake with pesto), or necci (made from chestnut ROSCIOLI PIZZA, BAKERY € flour). He’s hugely enthusiastic and this is Map p320 (Via Buonarroti 48; pizza slices €3.50; a unique place. h7am-8pm Mon-Sat; mVittorio Emanuele) Off-the-track branch of this splendid deli- DA VALENTINO TRATTORIA €€ bakery-pizzeria, with delish pizza al taglio, Map p320 (%06 488 06 43; Via del Boschetto; pasta dishes and other goodies that make meals €25-30; h1-2.45pm & 7.30-11.30pm Mon- it ideal for a swift lunch or picnic stock-up. Sat; mCavour) The vintage 1930s sign outside It’s on a road leading off Piazza Vittorio says ‘Birra Peroni’, and inside the lovely old- Emanuele II. fashioned feel indicates that not much has changed here for years, with black-and-white PASTICCERIA REGOLI BAKERY € photographs on the walls, white tablecloths Map p320 (Via dello Statuto 60; h6.30am- and tiled floors. Come here when you’re in 8.20pm Wed-Sun; mVittorio Emanuele) Buns the mood for grilled scamorza (a type of Ital- filled with whipped cream, light-as-air lit- ian cheese, similar to mozzarella), as this is tle cream puffs (perfect as a present when the main focus of the menu, with myriad var- you’re invited to someone’s house for a iations: served with tomato and rocket, to- meal), crostata (latticed jam tarts), and ex- mato and gorgonzola, cheese and artichokes, cellent ice cream are the name of the game grilled meats, hamburgers and so on. at this much-loved Roman institution, with & Esquilino S Monti, elegant pale-brick arches, chandeliers, and URBANA 47 ITALIAN €€ a cafe next door. Map p320 (%06 4788 4006; Via Urbana 47; meals €45; mCavour) Opened by the owners of a GAINN KOREAN € vintage furniture store, this urbane, infor- Map p320 (%06 4436 0160; Via dei Mille18; meals mal restaurant is filled with retro furnish- around €25; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; mTermini) ings that are all for sale. Chef Alessandro A serene choice close to Rome’s main train Miotto operates the ‘0km’ rule (as much as station, where you’ll get a warm, friendly possible), meaning that most things you eat welcome, and dishes come with an array of

here will be sourced from . enticing little salads and pickles, known as an L kimchi. The diners here are mainly Korean LA CARBONARA TRATTORIA €€

and Chinese, and the good food makes for a e or Map p320 (%06 482 51 76; Via Panisperna 214; refreshing change if you’re hankering after

meals €40; hMon-Sat; mCavour) On the go something non-Italian. nzo since 1906, this busy restaurant was fa-

LA GALLINA BIANCA PIZZA € voured by the infamous Ragazzi di Pan- E isperna, the group of young physicists Map p320 (%06 474 37 77; Via A Rosmini 9; piz- ating whose discoveries led to the construction zas €7-10; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-midnight; mTer- of the first atomic bomb. The waiters are mini) The ‘White Hen’ is a friendly, handy brusque, it crackles with energy and the in- pizzeria amid the minefield of tourist trash terior is covered in graffiti – tradition dic- around Termini, serving thick-crust Nea- tates that diners should leave their mark in politan pizzas made from slow-risen dough. a message on the wall. It’s large and airy, decorated in cool pale blue and old wood, with shaded outside seating on a not-too-busy street. 5 Esquilino PALAZZO DEL FREDDO PANELLA L’ARTE DEL PANE BAKERY, CAFE € DI GIOVANNI FASSI GELATERIA € Map p320 (%06 487 24 35; Via Merulana 54; Map p319 (%06 446 47 40; www.palazzodel- snacks about €3.50; h8am-11pm Mon-Thu, to freddo.it; Via Principe Eugenio 65; gelato from 150 €1.60; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sat, 10am-midnight creative uses of Roman traditions; husband Sun; mVittorio Emanuele) A great back-in- Romeo curates the wine cellar; and daugh- time barn of a place, sprinkled with vintage ter Maria Antonietta chooses the cheeses. gelato-making machinery, Fassi is a clas- Bookings essential. sic Rome experience, hugely popular with Korean and Chinese residents and visitors, specialising in flavours such as riso (rice), 5 Piazza della Repubblica pistachio and nocciola (hazelnut). The granita, served with dollops of cream, de- & Around serves special mention. DOOZO JAPANESE €€ Map p320 (%06 481 56 55; Via Palermo 51; set INDIAN FAST FOOD INDIAN € lunch €16-26, set dinner €15-28; h12.30-3pm & Map p320 (%06 446 07 92; Via Mamiani 11; 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 7.30-10.30pm Sun; gVia Na- curries €6-7.50; h11am-10.30pm; mVittorio zionale) Doozo (meaning ‘welcome’) is a spa- Emanuele) Formica tables, Hindi hits, neon cious, Zen restaurant-bookshop and gallery lights, chapatti and naan, lip-smacking sa- that offers tofu, sushi, soba (buckwheat mosas and bhajis, and a simple selection of noodle) soup and other Japanese delica- main curry dishes: when you’re feasting at cies, plus beer and green tea in wonderfully this authentic joint you can almost imagine serene surroundings. It’s a little oasis, par- yourself in India. ticularly the shady courtyard garden.

TRATTORIA MONTI RISTORANTE €€ oOPEN COLONNA ITALIAN €€€ Map p320 (%06 446 65 73; Via di San Vito 13a; Map p320 (%06 4782 2641; www.antonellocol- meals €45; h12.45-2.45pm Tue-Sun, 7.45-11pm onna.it; Via Milano 9a; meals €20-80; h12.30- Tue-Sat, closed Aug; mVittorio Emanuele) The 3.30pm Tue-Sun, 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat; a; gVia Camerucci family runs this elegant brick- Nazionale) Spectacularly set at the back of arched place, proffering top-notch tradi- Palazzo delle Esposizioni, superchef An- tional cooking from the Marches region. tonello Colonna’s superb restaurant is Monti, Esquilino & Esquilino S Monti, There are wonderful fritti (fried things), tucked onto a mezzanine floor under an delicate pastas and ingredients such as extraordinary glass roof. The cuisine is new pecorino di fossa (sheep’s cheese aged in Roman: innovative takes on traditional caves), goose, swordfish and truffles. Try dishes, cooked with wit and flair. The best the egg-yolk tortelli pasta. Desserts are de- thing? There’s a more basic but still delec- lectable, including apple pie with zabagli- table fixed two-course lunch for €16, and one. Word has spread, so book ahead. Saturday and Sunday brunch is €30, served in the dramatic, glass-ceilinged hall, with a TRIMANI RISTORANTE, WINE BAR €€ terrace for sunny days. Map p320 (%06 446 96 30; Via Cernaia 37b; h

an L meals €45; 11.30am-3pm & 5.30pm-12.30am m Mon-Sat; Termini) Part of the Trimani fam- 5 San Lorenzo & Beyond

e or ily’s wine empire (their shop just round the corner stocks about 4000 international FORMULA UNO PIZZA €

nzo labels), this is an unpretentious yet highly Map p319 (%06 445 38 66; Via degli Equi 13; professional enoteca, with knowledgable, pizzas from €6.50; h7.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat;

g j E multilingual staff. It’s Rome’s biggest wine Via Tiburtina, Via dei Reti) This basic, his- ating bar and has a vast selection of Italian re- toric San Lorenzo pizzeria is as adrenaline- gional wines as well as an ever-changing fuelled as its name: waiters zoom around food menu – tuck into local salami and under whirring fans, delivering tomato- cheese or fresh oysters. loaded bruschetta, fried courgette flowers, supplì al telefono and bubbling thin-crust AGATA E ROMEO ITALIAN €€€ pizza to eternal crowds of feasting students Map p320 (%06 446 61 15; Via Carlo Alberto 45; and wallet-savvy locals and tourists. meals €120; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; mVittorio Emanuele) This elegant, TRAM TRAM OSTERIA €€ restrained place was one of Rome’s gastro- Map p319 (%06 49 04 16; www.tramtram.it; Via nomic pioneers and still holds its own as dei Reti 44; meals around €45; h12.30-3.30pm one of the city’s most gourmet takes on Ro- & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun; gVia Tiburtina) This man cuisine. Chef Agata Parisella prepares trendy yet old-style lace-curtained trat- the menus and runs the kitchen, offering toria takes its name from the trams that 151

PIGNETO & CENTOCELLE If you feel like a night bar-hopping to see where the evening takes you, head to Pigneto. Over the past decade, this working-class quarter has undergone a rapid metamorphosis to arty, hipster nightlife zone. It was previously immortalised by film-maker Pier Paolo Pasolini, who used to hang out at Necci and filmed Accattone (1961) here. There’s a small-town feel, with low-rise houses and graffiti-covered narrow streets. The action centres on Via del Pigneto, but there are also bars in the surrounding streets. The area also harbours some of Rome’s best street art (listed on the street art map available from tourist kiosks). To reach here, take a tram from Termini to Via Prenestina. Nearby Cento- celle is becoming a good place to to eat amid in-the-know Roman foodies. It’s accessible via Tram 5, the Metro Parco di Centocelle, or buses 14, 105 or 150.

Eating I Porchettoni (Via del Pigneto; meals around €25; hnoon-1am) Lively spot where you can feast on porchetta (pork roasted with herbs), mozzarella, earthy cured meats and simple pastas at paper-table-clothed trestle tables. Osteria Qui se Magna! (%06 27 48 03; Via del Pigneto 307; meals €25; hMon-Sat) A small, simple place adorned with gingham paper tablecloths with a couple of outside tables, here you can eat heavenly, hearty, home-cooked food. Necci (%06 9760 1552; www.necci1924.com; Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68; dinner around €45, lunch mains around €8; h8am-2am; W) Necci opened as gelataria in 1924 and later became a favourite of Pasolini. Good for a drink or a meal, it serves up sophisticated Italian cooking to an eclectic crowd of all ages, with a lovely, leafy garden terrace. Primo (%06 701 38 27;www.primoalpigneto.it; Via del Pigneto 46;meals around €45; h7.30pm-2am Tue-Sat, Sun lunch) Flagship of the Pigneto scene, Primo is still buzzing

after several years. Service is slow, though. & Esquilino S Monti, Mazzo (%06 6496 2847; [email protected]; Via delle Rose 54; meals €45; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sun, lunch Sun) Roman cuisine is given a twist here by innovative young chefs, Franc- esca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli. Sitting times are 8pm and 10pm; book via email.

Drinking Il Tiaso (Map p319; %06 4547 4625; www.iltiaso.com; Via Perugia 20; W; gCirconvallazione Casilina) Think living room with zebra-print chairs, walls of indie art and Lou Reed biog- raphies shelved between wine bottles. Well-priced wine, a chilled vibe, and live music. Birra Piu (%06 7061 3106; Via del Pigneto 105; beer €5; h5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am an L Fri & Sat, 7pm-midnight Sun; gCirconvallazione Casilina) A small, relaxed bar, with craft beer and a laid-back crowd draped over blonde-wood bar stools and tables. e or Co.So (Via Braccio da Montone 80; cocktails €10; h7pm-3am Mon-Sat) This tiny place is

buzzing and is hipster to the hilt, with its Carbonara Sour cocktail (with vodka infused nzo with pork fat), bubble-wrap coasters, and popcorn and M&M bar snacks.

% E

Yeah! Pigneto ( 06 6480 1456; www.yeahpigneto.com; Via Giovanni de Agostini 41; small ating beer €3; aperitivo €7; h8pm-2am) A relaxed boho-feeling bar with DJs playing jazz and the walls covered in collages and classic album covers. Regular live gigs. rattle ­past outside. It’s a family-run concern closed Aug; gVia Tiburtina) Throughout San whose menu is an unusual mix of Roman Lorenzo’s metamorphosis from down-at- and Pugliese (southern Italian) dishes, fea- heel working-class district to down-at-heel turing taste sensations such as tiella riso, student enclave, Pommidoro has remained patata and cozze (baked rice dish with rice, the same. It was a favourite of controversial potatoes and mussels). Book ahead. film director Pasolini and contemporary celebs stop by, but it’s an unpretentious POMMIDORO TRATTORIA €€ place with superb-quality traditional food, Map p319 (%06 445 26 92; Piazza dei Sanniti 44; specialising in grilled meats. meals €35; h12.30-3.30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 152 PASTIFICIO SAN LORENZO ITALIAN €€€ balmy section of the day, this appealing Map p319 (%06 9727 3519; Via Tiburtina 135; cafe-bar, named after a comedy by Carlo meals €50; hfrom 7pm; gVia Tiburtina, jVia dei Goldoni, has greenery-screened tables out Reti) The biggest buzz in San Lorenzo is to on the pretty Piazza Madonna dei Monti. As be found at this brasserie-style restaurant, well as drinks, it serves snacks, from simple housed in a corner of the former pasta fac- pizzas to cheeses and salamis. tory that is now Rome’s contemporary art hub as it’s also home to a collective of art- LA BARRIQUE WINE BAR ists’ studios. The place is packed, the vibe Map p320 (Via del Boschetto 41b; h12.30- is ‘this is where it’s at’, and the food…is 3.30pm & 5.30pm-1am Mon-Sat; mCavour) This fine – nothing to shout about, but perfectly appealing enoteca, with wooden furniture scrumptious old favourites served up in a and whitewashed walls, is a classy yet infor- stylish fashion with equivalent prices. mal place to hang out and sample excellent French, Italian and German wines; a choice SAID ITALIAN €€€ of perfectly cooked, delicious main courses Map p319 (%06 446 92 04; Via Tiburtina 135; provide a great accompaniment, or you can meals €50; h10am-12.30am Mon-Thu, to 1.30am stick to artisanal cheeses and cold cuts. Sat & Sun; gVia Tiburtina, jVia dei Reti) Said is one of San Lorenzo’s chicest haunts, housed AL VINO AL VINO WINE BAR in a 1920s chocolate factory. It includes a Map p320 (Via dei Serpenti 19; h6pm-1am, shop glorious chocolate shop, selling delights open all day; mCavour) A rustic enoteca that’s such as Japanese pink-tea pralines, and a a favourite with the locals, mixing ceramic stylish restaurant-bar, all cosy urban chic, tabletops and contemporary paintings, this with battered sofas, industrial antiques and is an attractive spot to linger over a fine creative cuisine. collection of wines, particularly passiti (sweet wines). The other speciality is distil- lati – grappa, whisky and so on – and there DRINKING & are snacks to help it all go down, including

Monti, Esquilino & Esquilino S Monti, 6 NIGHTLIFE some Sicilian delicacies. BOHEMIEN BAR 6 Map p320 (Via degli Zingari 36; h6pm-2am Wed- Monti Sun; mCavour) S This little bar lives up to oAI TRE SCALINI WINE BAR its name; it feels like something you might Map p320 (Via Panisperna 251; h12.30pm- stumble on in Left Bank Paris. It’s small, 1am; mCavour) The ‘Three Steps’ is always with mismatched chairs and tables and an packed, with crowds spilling out into the eclectic crowd drinking wine by the glass, street. Apart from a tasty choice of wines, it and tea and coffee.

an L sells the damn fine Menabrea beer, brewed in northern Italy. You can also tuck into a ICE CLUB BAR Map p320 (www.iceclubroma.it; Via della Madonna e or heart-warming array of cheeses, salami and h m dishes such as polpette al sugo (meatballs dei Monti 18; 6pm-2am; ) Novelty

nzo with sauce; €7.50). value is what the Ice Club is all about. Pay €15 (you get a free vodka cocktail served in

D rinking FAFIUCHÉ WINE BAR a glass made of ice), put on a thermal cloak Map p320 (%06 699 09 68; www.fafiuche.it; Via and mittens, and enter the bar, in which ev­ della Madonna dei Monti 28; h5.30pm-1am Mon- erything is made of ice (temperature –5°C). Sat; mCavour) Fafiuché means ‘light-hearted Most people won’t chill here for long – the fun’ in the Piedmontese dialect, and this record is held by a Russian (four hours). &N place lives up to its name. The narrow, bottle-

ightlife lined warm-orange space exudes charm: come here to enjoy wine and artisanal beers, 6 Esquilino eat delicious dishes originating from Puglia BAR ZEST AT THE RADISSON BLU ES BAR to Piedmont, or buy delectable foodstuffs. Map p320 (Via Filippo Turati 171; h9am-1am; Aperitivo is from 6.30pm to 9pm. gVia Cavour) In need of a cocktail in the Ter- LA BOTTEGA DEL CAFFÈ CAFE mini district? Pop up to the 7th-floor bar at Map p320 (Piazza Madonna dei Monti 5; h8am- the slinkily designed Radisson Blu Es. Wait- 2am; mCavour) Ideal for frittering away any ers are cute, chairs are by Jasper Morrison, 153 views are through plate-glass and there’s a sexy rooftop pool to look at. WINE-TASTING

CASTRONI CAFE With beautifully appointed 1000-year- Map p320 (Via Nazionale 7; h7.30am-8pm Mon- old cellars and a chic tasting studio, g Sat, 9.30am-8pm Sun; Via Cavour) This gour- Vino Roma (Map p320; %328 4874497; met shop sells foodstuffs from all over the www.vinoroma.com; Via in Selci 84/G; 2hr world. Although this branch doesn’t have as tastings per person €50) guides novices large a range as that on Via Cola di Rienzo, and experts in tasting wine, under the it still has the fab cafe, which has great cof- knowledegable stewardship of somme- fee, panini and other snacks, and you can lier Hande Leimer and his expert team. stand at the bar or sit at a few booth tables. Tastings are in English, but German, Japanese, Italian and Turkish sessions FIDDLER’S ELBOW PUB are available on special request. It also Map p320 (Via dell’Olmata 43; h5pm-2am; gVia Cavour) Near the Basilica di Santa Maria offers a wine-and-cheese dinner (€60), Maggiore, the granddaddy of Rome’s Irish with snacks, cheeses and cold cuts to pubs sticks to the formula that has served accompany the wines, and bespoke it so well over the last 25 years or so: Guin- three-hour food tours. Book online. ness, darts, crisps and big games, attracting a mix of Romans, expats and tourists. There GENTE DI SAN LORENZO BAR are regular live-music and open-mic nights. Map p319 (%06 445 44 25; Via degli Aurunci h g FINNEGANS PUB 42; 7am-2am; Via dei Reti) On the corner Map p320 (www.finneganpub.com; Via Leonina of San Lorenzo’s Piazza dell’Immacolata, 66; mCavour) At first glance this seems like which gets thronged with students on balmy an identikit Irish pub, but look closer and nights, this is a relaxed place for a drink and the craic here has Italian twists – the clien- a snack or meal. The interior is airy, with warm wooden floors and brick arches, and tele are well-groomed expats and Romans, & Esquilino S Monti, and you can order Bellinis as well as Guin- there are some outdoor tables as well as reg- ness. It’s Irish-run and shows all the big ular DJs and occasional live music. football and rugby games, and there’s oc- ESC ATELIER CLUB casional live music. Map p319 (www.escatelier.net; Via dei Volsci 159; h g j DRUID’S DEN PUB varies; Via Tiburtina, Via dei Reti) This Map p320 (www.druidspubrome.com; Via San left-wing alternative arts centre hosts live Martino ai Monti 28; h5pm-2am; mCavour) gigs and club nights: expect electronica DJ When in Rome…do as the Romans do and sets featuring live sax, discussions, exhibi- tions, political events and more. Admission

head to an Irish pub. The Druid’s Den at- an L tracts a cheerful crowd of young expats and drinks are cheap. and Roman Anglophiles. The atmosphere VICIOUS CLUB CLUB e or is convivial, the walls are wood-panelled, Map p319 (%06 7061 4349; www.viciousclub.

Celtic paraphernalia is everywhere, Guin- nzo com; Via Achille Grandi 3a; admission varies; ness is on tap and it shows all the big games. h10pm-4.30am Tue & Thu-Sat, to 4am Sun;

jRoma Laziali) E

Vicious is a gay-friendly club ntertainment 6 that welcomes all to dance and chatter to a San Lorenzo & Beyond soundtrack of electro, no wave, deep tech- LOCANDA ATLANTIDE CLUB, LIVE MUSIC no, glam indie, and deep house. It’s small Map p319 (%06 4470 4540; www.locandatlantide. enough to feel intimate; try Alchemy every it; Via dei Lucani 22b; admission free, shows €3-5; Saturday. h9pm-2am Oct-Jun; mVia Tiburtina, jScalo San Lorenzo) Come, tickle Rome’s grungy under- belly. Descend through a door in a graffiti- 3 ENTERTAINMENT covered wall into this cavernous basement dive, packed to the rafters with studenty, TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA OPERA % alternative crowds and featuring everything Map p320 ( 06 481 70 03; www.operaroma.it; Pi- from prog-folk to DJ-spun electro music. It’s azza Beniamino Gigli; ballet €12-80, opera €17-150; h m good to know that punk is not dead. 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun; Repub- blica) Rome’s premier opera house boasts a 154 ian comics, the Ambra Jovinelli is a his- SWIMMING AT THE toric venue for alternative comedians and RADISSON BLU ES satirists. Between government-bashing, the This swish, cutting-edge hotel (Map theatre hosts productions of classics, musi- p320; %06 44 48 41; www.radissonblu. cals, opera, new works and the odd concert. com/eshotel-rome; Via Filippo Turati 171; d €130-250; ais; mVittorio Emanuele II) close to Termini has a sexy rooftop 7 SHOPPING pool open to nonguests for €45/55 per weekday/weekend, with a 50% discount for children (under three 7 years old free). A cocktail bar and res- Monti taurant are located alongside. MERCATO MONTI URBAN MARKET MARKET Map p320 (www.mercatomonti.com; Via Leonina 46; h10am-8pm Sat & Sun; mCavour) Vintage plush and gilt interior, a Fascist 1920s exte- clothes, accessories, one-off pieces by local rior and an impressive history: it premiered designers, this market in the hip hood of Puccini’s Tosca, and Maria Callas once sang Monti is well worth a rummage. here. Opera and ballet performances are staged between September and June. TINA SONDERGAARD CLOTHING Map p320 (%334 3850799; Via del Boschetto BLACKMARKET LIVE MUSIC 1d; h3-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, Map p320 (www.black-market.it; Via Panisperna closed Aug; mCavour) Sublimely cut and 101; h5.30pm-2am; mCavour) A bit outside the whimsically retro-esque, these handmade main Monti hub, this charming, living-room- threads are a hit with female fashion cog­ style bar filled with eclectic vintage furniture noscenti, including Italian rock star Car- is a small but rambling place, great for sitting men Consoli and the city’s theatre and TV back on mismatched armchairs for a leisure- Monti, Esquilino & Esquilino S Monti, crowd. You can have adjustments made ly, convivial drink. It hosts regular acoustic (included in the price), and dresses cost indie and folk gigs, which feel a bit like hav- around €140. ing a band in your living room. SPOT HOMEWARES CHARITY CAFÉ LIVE MUSIC Map p320 (%338 9275739; Via del Boschetto; Map p320 (%328 8452915; www.charitycafe. h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; mCavour) This it; Via Panisperna 68; h7pm-2am; mCavour) small shop has an impeccable collection of Think narrow space, spindly tables, dim mid-century furnishings, plus glassware lighting and a laid-back vibe: this is a place designed by the owners and papier-mâché to snuggle down and listen to some slinky vases designed by their friends. It’s fre- an L live jazz. It’s civilised, relaxed, untouristy quented by the likes of Paolo Sorrentino and very Monti. Gigs usually take place (who directed La Grande Belleza). e or from 10pm, with live music and aperitivo on Sundays. There’s open mic from 7pm on LA BOTTEGA DEL CIOCCOLATO FOOD nzo Monday and Tuesday. Map p320 (%06 482 14 73; Via Leonina 82; h9.30am-7.30pm Oct-Aug; mCavour) Run

S hopping ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA by the younger generation of Moriondo & DEI CONCERTI LIVE MUSIC Gariglio, this is a magical world of scarlet Map p319 (IUC; %06 361 00 51; www.concertiiuc. walls and old-fashioned glass cabinets set it; Piazzale Aldo Moro 5; mCastro Pretorio) The into black wood, with irresistible smells IUC organises a season of concerts in the wafting in from the kitchen and rows of Aula Magna of La Sapienza University, in- lovingly homemade chocolates on display. cluding many visiting international artists and orchestras. Performances cover a wide FABIO PICCIONI JEWELLERY range of musical genres, including baroque, Map p320 (%06 474 16 97; Via del Boschetto 148; classical, contemporary and jazz. h10.30am-1pm Tue-Sat, 2-8pm Mon-Sat; mCa- vour) A sparkling Aladdin’s cave of decadent, TEATRO AMBRA JOVINELLI THEATRE one-of-a-kind costume jewellery; artisan Map p319 (%06 8308 2884; www.ambrajovinelli. Fabio Piccioni recycles old trinkets to create org; Via G Pepe 43-47; mVittorio Emanuele) A remarkable art deco–inspired jewellery. home from home for many famous Ital- 155 101 CLOTHING raphy, DVDs, CDs, vinyl, children’s books Map p320 (Via Urbana; h10am-1.30pm & 2-8pm; and gifts for the design-lover in your life. mCavour) The collection at this individual boutique might include gossamer-light MAS DEPARTMENT STORE jumpers, broad-brimmed hats, chain-mail Map p320 (Magazzino allo Statuto; %06 446 80 earrings and silk dresses: it’s always worth 78; Via dello Statuto 11; h9am-12.45pm & 3.45- a look to discover a special something. 7.45pm; mVittorio Emanuele) Glorious MAS is a multistorey temple of glorious didn’t- PODERE VECCIANO FOOD know-I-needed-it, cheap-as-chips practical Map p320 (%06 4891 3812; Via dei Serpenti 33; goods: thermal vests, bags, watches, pants h10am-8pm; mCavour) Selling produce from and the kitchen sink. its Tuscan farm, this shop is a great place to pick up presents, such as different varieties of NUOVO MERCATO ESQUILINO MARKET pesto, honey and marmalade, selected wines, Map p319 (Via Lamarmora; h5am-3pm Mon-Sat; olive-oil-based cosmetics and beautiful olive mVittorio Emanuele) Cheap, colourful food wood chopping boards. There’s even an olive market, and the best place to find exotic tree growing in the middle of the shop. herbs and spices.

CREJE CLOTHING Map p320 (%06 4890 5227; Via del Boschetto 7 Piazza della Repubblica 5A; h10am-2.30pm & 3-8pm; mCavour) This eclectic, inexpensive Monti boutique sells a & Around mix of clothing sourced from exotic places, FELTRINELLI INTERNATIONAL BOOKS including Indian dresses, plus dramatic sil- Map p320 (%06 482 78 78; Via VE Orlando 84; ver costume jewellery and soft leather bags. h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm & 4-8pm Sun; mRepubblica) The international branch ABITO CLOTHING of Italy’s ubiquitous bookseller has a splen- Map p320 (%06 488 10 17; abito61.blogspot. did collection of books in English, Spanish, co.uk; Via Panisperna 61; h10.30am-8pm Mon- French, German and Portuguese. You’ll & Esquilino S Monti, Sat, noon-8pm Sun; mCavour) Wilma Silvestre find everything from recent bestsellers to designs elegant clothes with a difference. dictionaries, travel guides, DVDs and an ex- Choose from the draped, chic, laid-back cellent assortment of maps. styles on the rack, and you can have one made up just for you in a day or just a few IBS.IT BOOKS hours – customise the fabric and the colour. Map p320 (Via Nazionale 254-255; h9am- There’s usually one guest designer’s clothes 8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm & 4-8pm Sun; W; also being sold at the shop. mRepubblica) IBS.it, on three floors, has a good range of Italian literature, reference GIACOMO SANTINI SHOES books and travel guides, as well as CDs, an L Map p320 (%06 488 09 34; Via Cavour 106; half-priced books (general-fiction paper- h3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm

backs), a cheery children’s section and a few e or Tue-Sat; mCavour) This Fausto Santini outlet books in English and French.

store sells end-of-line and discounted boots, nzo shoes and bags, and has bargain signature architectural designs in butter-soft leather at 7 San Lorenzo S hopping a fraction of the retail price. Sizes are limited. LA GRANDE OFFICINA JEWELLERY Map p319 (%06 445 03 48; lagrandeoffici- 7 nagioielli.blogspot.co.uk; Via dei Sabelli 165B; Esquilino h11am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat, 1-7.30pm ARION ESPOSIZIONI BOOKS Mon; gVia Tiburtina) Under dusty workshop Map p320 (%06 4891 3361; Via Milano 15-17; lamps, husband-and-wife team Giancarlo h10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat; gVia Genco and Daniela Ronchetti turn every- Nazionale) In cool, gleaming white rooms de- thing from old clock parts and Japanese signed by Firouz Galdo, Arion Esposizioni – fans into beautiful work-of-art jewellery. the bookshop attached to Palazzo delle Es- Head here for something truly unique. posizioni – is just made for browsing. There are books on art, architecture and photog- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 156 MICHAEL KITROMILIDES / GETTY IMAGES © 157

PAOLO CORDELLI / GETTY IMAGES © Rome’s Churches Rome is a feast, and whatever your faith, it’s impossible not to be awestruck by its riches. Nowhere will you be able to visit such a splendid array and wealth of ecclesiastic architecture, from the stark simplicity of Basilica di (p176) and the tiny perfection of Bramante’s Tempietto (p162) to the awe- inspiring grandeur of St Peter’s Basilica (the world’s greatest church; p122) and the Sistine Chapel (p130), Rome’s other inspirational pilgrimage sites include huge edifices such as the basilicas of San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura (p147), Santa Maria Maggiore (p143), San Giovanni in Laterano (p173) and the Chiesa di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme (p144).

Ancient Architecture Whether they’re baroque, medieval or Renaissance, many churches also feature a form of recycling that’s uniquely Roman, integrating leftover architectural elements from imperial Rome. For 1. The courtyard garden of Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura example, you’ll see ancient columns in (p200) 2. Basilica di Santa Maria in (p160) Santa Maria in Trastevere (p160), and the 3. Ecstasy of St Teresa, by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, in Chiesa famous ancient manhole, the Bocca della di Santa Maria della Vittoria (p106). Verità, in the beautiful medieval Chiesa di (p67). Taking

DEA / G. NIMATALLAH / GETTY IMAGES © the idea to the limit, the mesmerising Pantheon (p72) is an entire Roman temple converted into a church. Divine Art Rome’s churches, which dot almost every street corner, also serve as free art galleries, bedecked in gold, inlay-work, mosaic and carvings. The wealth of the Roman has benefited from centuries of virtuoso artists, architects and artisans who descended here to create their finest and most heavenly works in the glorification of God. Without paying a cent, anyone can wander in off the street to see this glut of masterpieces, including works by Michelangelo (in San Pietro in Vincoli, p144, and St Peter’s Basilica), Caravaggio (in , p101, and San Luigi dei Francesi, p77) and Bernini (in Santa Maria della Vittoria, p106). ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 214

Sleeping

From opulent five-star palaces to chic boutique hotels, family-run pensions, B&Bs, hostels and convents, Rome has accommodation to please everyone. But while there’s plenty of choice, rates are universally high and you’ll need to book early to get the best deal.

Pensions & Hotels Rental Accommodation The bulk of Rome’s accommodation consists For longer stays, renting an apartment will of pensioni (pensions) and alberghi (hotels). generally work out cheaper than an extended A pensione is a small, family-run hotel, hotel sojourn. Bank on about €900 per month often in a converted apartment. Rooms are for a studio apartment or one-bedroom flat. usually fairly simple, though most come with For longer stays, you’ll probably have to pay a private bathroom. bills plus a building maintenance charge. Hotels are rated from one to five stars. Most hotels in Rome’s historic centre tend to Seasons & Rates be three-star and up. As a rule, a three-star Rome doesn’t have a low season as such but room will come with a hairdryer, a minibar rates are at their lowest from November to (or fridge), a safe, air-con and wi-fi. Some may March (excluding Christmas and New Year) also have satellite TV. Note that Roman ho- and from mid-July through August. Expect tel rooms tend to be small, especially in the to pay top whack in spring (April to June) centro­ storico and Trastevere, where hotels and autumn (September and October) and are often housed in centuries-old palazzi. over the main holiday periods (Christmas, New Year and Easter). Most midrange and B&Bs & Guesthouses top-end hotels accept credit cards. It’s always Alongside traditional B&Bs, Rome has many best to check in advance. boutique-style guesthouses offering chic ac- commodation at midrange to top-end prices. Accommodation Websites Breakfast in a Roman B&B usually con- ¨Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/ sists of bread rolls, croissants, yoghurt, ham rome/hotels) Consult a list of author-reviewed and cheese. accommodation options and book online. ¨060608 (www.060608.it/en/accoglienza/ Hostels dormire) Official di Roma site with Rome’s hostels cater to everyone from back- accommodation lists. Details are not always packers to budget-minded families. Many offer up to date. hotel-style rooms alongside traditional dorms. ¨Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome Some hostels don’t accept reservations for (www.b-b.rm.it) Lists B&Bs and short-term dorm beds, so it’s first come, first served. apartment rentals. ¨ (www.bbitalia.it) Religious Institutions Bed & Breakfast Italia Rome’s longest-established B&B network. Many of Rome’s religious institutions offer ¨ (www.romeasyoufeel.com) cheap(ish) rooms. These often impose strict Rome As You Feel curfews and are fairly short on frills. Book Apartment rentals, from cheap studio flats well ahead. to luxury apartments. 215 Lonely Planet’s Best for Location NEED TO KNOW Top Choices Albergo Abruzzi (p217) Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) Wake up to the Pantheon. Price Ranges Arty retreat in elegant sur- Casa di Santa Brigida These price ranges roundings. (p217) A convent overlooking are for a high-season

Piazza Farnese. Sleeping 181 (p219) Chic ­double room with private luxury on top shopping street. ­bathroom: Arco del Lauro (p221) Best for € under €110 Minimalist comfort in Trastevere Romance €110 to €200  €€

 .B&B Hotel Sant’Anselmo (p222) €€€ over €200 Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Escape to this beautiful Liberty- Stately style in a city-centre Breakfast is included style villa. mansion. ­unless otherwise stated. Hotel Locarno (p219) Star in your own romance at this Reservations Best by Budget art-deco gem. ¨¨Always try to book ahead, especially for the € major religious festivals. Arco del Lauro (p221) A Best B&Bs ¨¨Ask for a camera cool bolthole in happening ­matrimoniale for a room Trastevere. Maria-Rosa Guesthouse (p221) Your Trastevere home with a double bed; a Althea Inn (p222) Designer from home. camera doppia has twin comfort at budget prices. beds. La Piccola Maison (p218) Beehive (p220) Classy hostel Quiet comfort near Piazza Checking In & Out near Termini. Barberini. ¨¨When you check in you’ll need to present €€ Best Value for your passport or ID card. ¨ Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) A Money ¨Checkout is usually be- delightful villa hotel. tween 10am and noon. In Althea Inn (p222) A hidden hostels it’s around 9am. Residenza Maritti (p216) gem near . Welcoming hideaway near the ¨¨Some guesthouses and forums. Le Stanze di Orazio (p219) B&Bs require you to ar- Get your money’s worth at this range a time to check in. Daphne Inn (p218) Boutique Vatican B&B. hotel with superlative service. La Controra (p218) Quality hostel in upscale area. €€€ Babuino 181 (p219) Bask in understated luxury Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Live like country-house nobility 216 Where to Stay

Neighbourhood For Against Ancient Rome Close to major sights such as Colosseum, Roman Not cheap and has few Forum and ; quiet at night. ­budget options; restaurants are touristy. Sleeping Centro Storico Atmospheric area with everything on your Most expensive part of town; doorstep – Pantheon, , restau- few budget options; can be rants, bars, shops. noisy.

ANCIENT ROME Tridente, Trevi Good for , and Upmarket area with prices to  & the Quirinale designer shopping; excellent midrange to top- match; subdued after dark. end options; good transport links. Monti, Esquilino Lots of budget accommodation around Stazione Some dodgy streets in & San Lorenzo Termini; top eating options in Monti and good ­Termini area, which is not nightlife in San Lorenzo; good transport links. Rome’s most characterful. San Giovanni Authentic atmosphere with good eating and Few options available; not & Testaccio drinking options; Aventino, a quiet, romantic many big sights. area; Testaccio, a top food and nightlife district. Trastevere & Gorgeous, atmospheric area; party vibe with Very noisy, particularly on Gianicolo hundreds of bars, cafes, and restaurants; some summer nights; expensive. interesting sights. , Near St Peter’s Basilica and Vatican Museums; Expensive near St Peter’s; & decent range of accommodation; some excel- not much nightlife; sells out lent shops and restaurants; on the metro. quickly for religious holidays. Villa Borghese Largely residential area good for the Auditorium Out of the centre; few budget & Northern and some top museums; generally quiet after choices. Rome dark.

leather bedsteads, hanging lamps, and the 4 Ancient Rome ­occasional art tome.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL oRESIDENZA MARITTI GUESTHOUSE €€ FORTY SEVEN €€€ Map p300 (%06 678 82 33; www.residenzamar- Map p300 (%06 678 78 16; www.fortysevenhotel. itti.com; Via Tor de’ Conti 17; s €50-120, d €80-170, com; Via Petroselli 47; r €170-300; aW; gVia tr €100-190; aW; mCavour) Boasting stun- Petroselli) Near the Bocca della Verità, the ning views over the forums, this gem has plain grey facade of this classy four-star rooms spread over several floors. Some are gives onto a bright modern interior, full of bright and modern, others are more cosy sunshine and sharply designed guest rooms. in feel, with antiques and family furniture. There’s also a rooftop restaurant and, in the There’s no breakfast but you can use a fully basement, a gym and Turkish bath. equipped kitchen. HOTEL FORUM HISTORIC HOTEL €€€ % NERVA BOUTIQUE HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ Map p300 ( 06 679 24 46; www.hotelforum. Map p300 (%06 678 18 35; www.hotelnerva. com; Via Tor de’ Conti 25-30; r €180-350; aW; com; Via Tor de’ Conti 3; s €70-180, d €90-300; mCavour) The stately Forum offers formal aW; mCavour) Fresh from a recent make­ elegance and inspiring views. From the over, this friendly hotel is tucked away be- rooftop restaurant you can survey a sea of hind the Imperial Forums. Its snug rooms ruins, while inside it’s all antiques, wood- display a contemporary look in shades panelling and dangling chandeliers. Rooms of cream, grey and black, with padded are small and classically attired. Parking is available for €40 per day. 217 aW; gCorso del Rinascimento) This small 4 Centro Storico hotel offers a range of handsome, modern rooms in a 15th-century palazzo near Pi- HOTEL PENSIONE BARRETT PENSION € azza Navona. They come in various shapes Map p304 (%06 686 84 81; www.pensionebar- and looks, but the most striking feature a rett.com; 47; s €115, d showy silver-and-grey design. Breakfast aW g

€125, tr €150; ; Largo di Torre Argentina) costs €10 extra. Sleeping This charming pension boasts a conveni- ent central location and an exuberant decor HOTEL TEATRO DI POMPEO HOTEL €€ that marries leafy pot plants with statues, Map p304 (%06 6830 0170; www.hotelteatro­ busts and vibrant stucco. Rooms are cosy dipompeo.it; Largo del Pallaro 8; s €90-165, d

€110-220; aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) and come with thoughtful extras like foot  CENTRO STORICO spas and fully stocked fridges. Tucked away behind Campo de’ Fiori, this charming hotel sits atop the 1st-century-BC ALBERGO DEL SOLE HOTEL € – the basement break- Map p304 (%06 687 94 46; www.solealbiscione. fast room is actually in the theatre’s ruins. it; Via del Biscione 76; s €70-100, d €100-145, tr Rooms are attractive with classic wooden €120-180; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) furniture, terracotta floor tiles, and, in This simple, no-frills place is supposedly some, sloping wood-beamed ceilings. the oldest hotel in Rome, dating to 1462. There’s nothing special about the function- DIMORA DEGLI DEI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ al rooms, but each floor has its own out- Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.pantheondimo- door terrace, and the location near Campo radeglidei.com; Via del Seminario 87; r €80-200; de’ Fiori is excellent. No breakfast. aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Location and discreet style are the selling points of this ALBERGO CESÀRI HISTORIC HOTEL €€ elegant bolthole near the Pantheon. On Map p304 (%06 674 97 01; www.albergocesari.it; the 1st floor of a centuries-old palazzo, it Via di Pietra 89/A; s €70-150, d €110-250; aW; has six high-ceilinged tastefully furnished gVia del Corso) This friendly three-star has rooms. Breakfast (€10) is optional. been welcoming guests since 1787 and both Stendhal and Mazzini are said to have slept CASA DI SANTA here. Modern visitors can expect tradition- BRIGIDA RELIGIOUS ACCOMMODATION €€ al rooms, a stunning rooftop terrace, and a Map p304 (%06 6889 2596; www.brigidine.org; wonderful central location. 96, entrance Via di Monserrato 54; s/d €120/200; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) HOTEL DUE TORRI HOTEL €€ Named after the Swedish St Brigid who died Map p304 (%06 6880 6956; www.hotelduetor- here in 1373, this tranquil convent enjoys a riroma.com; Vicolo del Leonetto 23; s €70-140, d superb location overlooking Piazza Farnese. €110-220, tr €140-240; aW; gVia di Monte Bri- Rooms are simple, clean and decidedly low- anzo) If the rooms at this refined hotel could tech – entertainment here is limited to a pi- talk, they’d have some stories to tell. The ano in the communal room, a small library Due Torri might now be a classically attired and views from the roof terrace. three-star with period furniture and 26 cosy rooms, but in centuries past it housed oHOTEL CAMPO a cardinals’ residence and a brothel. DE’ FIORI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 687 48 86; www.hotelcampodefio- ARGENTINA RESIDENZA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ ri.com; Via del Biscione 6; r €90-400, apt €80-350; Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.argentinares- aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) This rak- idenza.com; Via di Torre Argentina 47; r €120-200; ish four-star has got the lot – baroque bou- aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Escape the doir decor, an enviable location, professional hustle and relax in the comfort of this quiet staff and a fabulous panoramic roof terrace. boutique hotel on Largo di Torre Argentina. The interior feels delightfully decadent with Its six decently sized rooms sport a low-key its boldly coloured walls, low wooden ceil- contemporary look with design touches ings, gilt mirrors and restored bric-a-brac. and elegant furnishings. Also available are 13 apartments.

HOTEL NAVONA HOTEL €€ ALBERGO ABRUZZI HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 6821 1392; www.hotelnavona. Map p304 (%06 679 20 21; www.hotelabruzzi.it; com; Via dei Sediari 8; s €60-170, d €60-260; Piazza della Rotonda 69; d €120-340, tr €150-400, 218 q €180-450; aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) As DAPHNE INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ locations go, the Abruzzi’s tops the charts, Map p308 (%06 8745 0086; www.daphne-rome. bang opposite the Pantheon. Its recently com; Via di San Basilio 55; s €115-180, d €130-240, refurbished rooms sport a smart look with ste €190-290, without bathroom s €70-130, d blown-up photos printed on white walls and €90-160; aW; mBarberini) Run by an Amer- dark wood flooring. They are small, though, ican-Italian couple, the Daphne has helpful

Sleeping and late-night noise might be a problem. English-speaking staff and chic, comforta- ble rooms. They come in various shapes and sizes, but the overall look is smart contem- 4 Tridente, Trevi porary. There’s a second branch, Daphne Trevi, at Via degli Avignonesi 20.

TRIDENTE, TREVI & THE QUIRINALE & the Quirinale

oLA CONTRORA HOSTEL € HOTEL SUISSE PENSION €€ (%06 9893 7366; Via Umbria 7; dm €20-40, d Map p308 (%06 678 36 49; www.hotelsuisse- €80-110; aiW; mBarberini, mRepubblica) rome.com; Via Gregoriana 54; s €80-100, d €135- Quality budget accommodation is thin on 170, tr €180-200; iW; mSpagna, mBarberini) the ground in the upmarket area north of An air of old-school elegance pervades at Piazza Repubblica, but this great little hos- this delightful family-run pension. Attrac- tel is a top choice. It has a friendly laid-back tive antique furniture and creaking, pol- vibe, cool staff, double rooms and bright, ished parquet floors set the tone for the 12 airy mixed dorms (for three and four peo- tasteful, modestly decorated rooms. ple), with parquet floors, air-con and pri- vate bathrooms. GREGORIANA HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 679 42 69; www.hotelgregoriana. a HOTEL PANDA PENSION € it; Via Gregoriana 18; s €120-168,d €150-288; ; Map p308 (%06 678 01 79; www.hotelpanda.it; Via mSpagna) This low-key, polished art-deco della Croce 35; s €65-90, d €85-130, tr €120-150, q hotel is fantastically set behind the Span- €160-190; aW; mSpagna) Near the Spanish ish Steps. Beds have beautiful, circular Steps, in an area where a bargain is a Bul- maple-wood headboards, snow-white linen gari watch bought at the sales, the Panda and lots of gleaming rosewood. Staff are flies the flag for budget accommodation. It’s ­friendly and unpretentious. a friendly place with high-ceilinged rooms and simple, tasteful decor. Air-con is free in MARGUTTA GLAMOUR summer, but €6 in other periods. STUDIOS APARTMENT €€ Map p308 (%333 7982702; www.marguttaglam- LA PICCOLA MAISON B&B €€ ourstudios.com; Via Margutta 54-55; apt €150- Map p308 (%06 4201 6331; www.lapiccolamaison. 180; mSpagna) Four charming apartments com; Via dei Cappuccini 30; s €50-180, d €70-270; on one of Rome’s prettiest streets, which aW; mBarberini) The excellent Piccola Mai- has a village feel despite being in the thick son is housed in a 19th-century building in of Tridente. All are decorated with flair, a great location close to Piazza Barberini, and the two larger apartments, in former and has pleasingly plain, neutrally decorated artists’ studios, are spectacular, with dou- rooms and thoughtful staff. It’s a great deal. ble height ceilings; the smaller two are charming, with pretty outlooks.

HOTEL TAX HOTEL MOZART HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 3600 1915; www.hotelmozart. Everyone overnighting in Rome has to com; Via dei Greci 23b; r €140-200; aiW; pay a room-occupancy tax on top of mSpagna) The Mozart has classic, immacu- their regular bill. late rooms, decorated in dove greys, egg- ¨¨€3 per person per night in one- and shell blues, golden yellows and rosy pinks, two-star hotels with comfortable beds, gleaming linen and ¨¨€3.50 in B&Bs and room rentals polished wooden furniture; deluxe rooms ¨¨€4/6/7 in three-/four-/five-star have jacuzzis and small terraces. hotels. It also administers the Vivaldi Luxury Suites and several apartments nearby. Look The tax is applicable for a maximum out for special offers on the website, where of 10 consecutive nights. Prices in rooms can go for as little as €80. reviews do not include the tax. 219 HOTEL BAROCCO HOTEL €€ CROSSING CONDOTTI GUESTHOUSE €€€ Map p308 (%06 487 20 01; www.hotelbarocco. Map p308 (%06 6992 0633; www.crossingcon- com; Piazza Barberini 9; d €160-290; aiW; dotti.com; Via Mario de’ Fiori 28; r €240-470; mBarberini) Very central, this well-run, wel- aW; mSpagna) This is one of Rome’s breed coming 41-room hotel overlooking Piazza of upmarket guesthouses, where all the Barberini (the pricier rooms have views) has fittings, linen and comforts are top of the

a classic feel, with rooms featuring oil paint- range, and the pretty, though not large, Sleeping ings, spotless linen, gentle colour schemes rooms have lots of character and antique and fabric-covered walls. Breakfast is ample furnishings. There’s also a well-stocked and served in a wood-panelled room. kitchen with drinks and a Nespresso ma- chine. The more expensive rooms, recently HOTEL LOCARNO HOTEL €€ added, have walk-in showers and a kitchen- VATICAN CITY, BORGO & PRATI Map p308 (%06 361 08 41; www.hotellocarno. ette, and the top choice has a Turkish bath. com; Via della Penna 22; s €90-260, d €120-270; aiW; mFlaminio) With its ivy-clad exte- HOTEL DE RUSSIE HOTEL €€€ rior, stained-glass doors and rattling cage- Map p308 (%06 32 88 81; www.hotelderussie.it; lift, the Locarno is an art-deco classic – the Via del Babuino 9; d €550-850; ai; mFlaminio) kind of place Hercule Poirot might stay if he The historic de Russie is almost on Piazza were in town. Many rooms have silk wall- del Popolo, and has exquisite terraced gar- paper and period furniture, and are occa- dens. The decor is softly luxurious in many sionally in need of TLC, but full of charm. shades of grey, and the rooms offer state- There’s a roof garden, a restaurant and an of-the-art entertainment systems, massive atmospheric bar. mosaic-tiled bathrooms and all the luxu- ries. There’s a lovely courtyard bar. HOTEL MODIGLIANI HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 4281 5226; www.hotelmodigli- ani.com; Via della Purificazione 42; s €100-160, d 4 Vatican City, Borgo €100-270; aW; mBarberini) Run by an artis- tic couple, the Modigliani is all about atten- & Prati tion to detail and service. The 23 dove-grey HOTEL SAN PIETRINO HOTEL € rooms are spacious and light, and the best Map p312 (%06 370 01 32; www.sanpietrino. ones have views and balconies, either out- it; Via Bettolo 43; s €45-75, d €55-112; aiW; side or over the quiet courtyard garden. mOttaviano–San-Pietro) Within easy walk- ing distance of St Peter’s, family-run San oBABUINO 181 BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Pietrino is an excellent budget choice. Its Map p308 (%06 3229 5295; www.romeluxu- 11 cosy rooms are characterful and prettily rysuites.com/babuino; Via del Babuino 181; r decorated with terracotta-tiled floors and €240-715; aW; mFlaminio) A beautifully the occasional statue. No breakfast. renovated old palazzo, Babuino offers dis- creet luxury, with great attention to detail, COLORS HOTEL HOTEL € a sleek roof terrace and modern, chic rooms Map p312 (%06 687 40 30; www.colorshotel.com; with touches such as a Nespresso machine Via Boezio 31; s €30-90, d €45-122; aW; gVia and fluffy bathrobes. A new annexe across Cola di Rienzo) Popular with young travellers, the street has added more suites and rooms this welcoming hotel impresses with its that continue the theme of understated el- fresh, artful design and vibrantly coloured egance. The same company runs the simi- rooms. These come in various shapes and larly impressive Margutta 54 (Map p308; sizes, including some cheaper ones with %06 322 95 295; www.romeluxurysuites.com/ shared bathrooms and, from June to Au- margutta/default-en.html; Via Margutta 54; d gust, dorms for guests under 38. Breakfast from €250; mSpagna) and Mario de’ Fiori 37. on request costs €6.50.

CASA FABBRINI B&B €€€ LE STANZE DI ORAZIO B&B €€ Map p308 (%06 324 3706; www.casafabbrini. Map p312 (%06 3265 2474; www.lestanzediorazio. it; Vicolo delle Orsoline 13; r €280; mSpagna) A com; Via Orazio 3; r €85-135; aiW; mLepanto) beautifully styled boutique B&B that could This small boutique B&B is excellent value have sprung from the pages of Elle Deco- for money. It has five bright, playfully ration, with antique doors as bedheads, ­decorated rooms – think shimmering rain- coloured-glass lamps and painted furniture. bow wallpaper, lilac accents, and designer bathrooms – and a small breakfast area. 220 FABIO MASSIMO name only, this pearl offers small, hotel- DESIGN HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ standard rooms, each with its own ensuite Map p312 (%06 321 30 44; www.hotelfabiomas- bathroom, and decorated in tasteful low- simo.com; Viale Giulio Cesare 71; r €89-229; aW; key style – beamed ceilings, wooden floors, mOttaviano-San Pietro) Walkable from Ottavi- French windows, black-and-white framed ano metro station, this sleek design hotel is photos. There’s also an apartment, with

Sleeping convenient as well as stylish. From the 4th- kitchen, that sleeps up to four. No lift and floor reception and breakfast area, corri- no breakfast. dors lead off to nine rooms, each furnished in contemporary reds and slate greys, with WELROME HOTEL HOTEL € flower motifs and hanging lamps. Map p320 (%06 4782 4343; www.welrome.it;

;MONTI, ESQUILINO & SAN LORENZO Via Calatafimi 15-19; d/tr/q €110/148/187; aW  HOTEL BRAMANTE HISTORIC HOTEL €€ mTermini) A small, spotless hotel in a quiet Map p312 (%06 6880 6426; www.hotelbramante. backstreet not far from Termini. Owners com; Vicolo delle Palline 24-25; s €100-160, d Mary and Carlo take great pride in looking €140-240, tr €175-260, q €190-300; aW; gBor- after their guests and will enthusiastically go Sant’Angelo) Nestled under the Vatican­ advise you on where to eat, what to do and walls, the Bramante exudes country- where to avoid. Their seven simply deco- house charm with its cosy internal court- rated rooms are clean and comfortable. No yard, wood-beamed ceilings and antique breakfast but kettles and fridges are pro- ­furniture. It’s housed in the 16th-century vided, and there are plenty of nearby bars building where architect Domenico Fon- for a cornetto (croissant) and coffee. tana once lived. PAPA GERMANO HOTEL € oVILLA LAETITIA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p320 (%06 48 69 19; www.hotelpapa­ (%06 322 67 76; www.villalaetitia.com; Lungote- germano.it; Via Calatafimi 14a; d €50-110, with- vere delle Armi 22; r €200-280, ste €500; aW; out bathroom dm €15-35, s €30-65, d €40-85; gLungotevere delle Armi) Villa Laetitia is a aiW; mTermini) Easygoing and popular, stunning boutique hotel in a riverside art- Papa Germano is a budget stalwart. There nouveau villa. Its 20 rooms, each individu- are various sleeping options, ranging from ally designed by Anna Venturini Fendi of four-person dorms to private rooms with or the famous fashion house, marry modern without bathrooms. It has a family-run feel, design touches with vintage pieces and the decor is plain and fairly smart, and all rare finds, such as an original Picasso in rooms are scrupulously clean. the Garden Room. ALESSANDRO PALACE HOSTEL HOSTEL € Map p320 (%06 446 19 58; www.hostelsalessan- 4 dro.com; Via Vicenza 42; dm €19-35, d €70-110, Monti, Esquilino tr €85-120; aiW; mCastro Pretorio) This & San Lorenzo well-kept favourite offers spick-and-span, oBEEHIVE HOSTEL € terracotta-floored doubles and triples, as Map p320 (%06 4470 4553; www.the-beehive. well as dorms sleeping from four to eight, com; Via Marghera 8; dm €25-35, s €50-80, d all with cheery bedspreads. Every room has €90-100, without bathroom s €60-70, d €70-80, tr its own bathroom with hairdryer. There’s a €95-105; aW; mTermini) S More boutique basement bar, and it runs local tours. chic than backpacker dive, the Beehive HOTEL ARTORIUS HOTEL €€ is Rome’s best hostel; book well ahead. Map p320 (%06 482 11 96; www.hotelartori- There’s a spotless, eight-person mixed dorm usrome.com; Via del Boschetto 13; d €86-140; or six private double rooms, some with air- aiW; mCavour) con. Original artworks and funky modular The art-deco lobby looks furniture add colour, and there’s a cafe. promising, and the rest delivers too in this Some off-site rooms, sharing communal 10-room Monti hotel with a family-run feel. bathrooms and kitchen, are another bar- Rooms are simple and plain – not large, but gain (single €40 to €50, double €60 to €80). perfectly comfortable – and one (room 109) has a terrace. Book well ahead. BLUE HOSTEL HOSTEL € DUCA D’ALBA HOTEL €€ Map p320 (%340 925 85 03; www.bluehostel.it; Map p320 (%06 48 44 71; www.hotelducadalba. Via Carlo Alberto 13, 3rd fl; d €60-150, apt €100- com; Via Leonina 14; r €115-380; aW; mCavour) 180; aW; mVittorio Emanuele) A hostel in 221 This appealing four-star hotel in the Monti aged 12 or younger are welcome) is housed district has small but charming rooms: in a lovely 16th-century convent, close to most have fabric-covered or handpainted the river. It is run by the Casa Internazi- walls, wood-beamed ceilings and big flat- onale delle Donne (International ­Women’s screen TVs. House) and offers safe, well-priced ­accommodation in Trastevere. Reception RESIDENZA CELLINI GUESTHOUSE €€

is open from 7am to 3am. The 13 simple Sleeping Map p320 (%06 4782 5204; www.residenza- rooms sleep two, four, five or eight, and cellini.it; Via Modena 5; s €100-135, d €115-150; some have views onto the internal ­garden. aiW; mRepubblica) With grown-up fur- It’s wheelchair accessible.­ nishings featuring potted palms, polished wood, pale-yellow walls, oil paintings and oARCO DEL LAURO B&B €€ & TRASTEVERE GIANICOLO a hint of chintz, this charming, family-run Map p316 (%346 2443212, 9am-2pm 06 9784 place on a quiet road parallel to Via Nazion- 0350; www.arcodellauro.it; Via Arco de’ Tolomei ale offers spacious, elegant rooms, all with 27; s €72-132, d €132-145; aW; gViale di Traste- satellite TV and jacuzzi or hydro-massage vere, jViale di Trastevere) This fab six-room shower. There’s a sunny flower-surrounded B&B occupies a centuries-old palazzo on a terrace for summer breakfasts. narrow cobbled street. Its gleaming white rooms combine rustic charm with a mod- oVILLA SPALLETTI TRIVELLI HOTEL €€€ ern look and comfortable beds. The owners Map p320 (%06 4890 7934; www.villaspalletti.it; are welcoming and always ready to help. Via Piacenza 4; r €450-620; aiW; mSpagna) With 12 rooms in a glorious mansion in RELAIS LE CLARISSE HOTEL €€ central Rome, Villa Spalletti Trivelli was Map p316 (%06 5833 4437; www.leclarisse.com; built by Gabriella Rasponi, widow of Italian Via Cardinale Merry del Val 20; r €80-230; aW; senator Count Venceslao Spalletti Triveli gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Set and the niece of Carolina Bonaparte (Na- hacienda-style around a pretty internal poleon’s sister). It’s a soujourn in a stately courtyard with an olive tree and a smat- home: rooms are soberly and elegantly tering of cast-iron tables, this is a delight- decorated, and the sitting rooms are hung ful oasis in Trastevere’s bustling core. In with 16th-century tapestries or lined with contrast to the urban mayhem outside, the antique books. There’s a basement spa. hotel is a picture of farmhouse charm with rooms, each named after a plant, decorated in rustic style with wrought-iron bedsteads 4 Trastevere & Gianicolo and wood-beamed ceilings.

MARIA-ROSA GUESTHOUSE B&B € RESIDENZA ARCO DE’ TOLOMEI HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%338 7700067; www.maria-rosa. Map p316 (%06 5832 0819; www.bbarcodeito- it; Via dei Vascellari 55; s €45-65, d €65-80, tr lomei.com; Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27; d €155-205; €80-120; iW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di aW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Traste- Trastevere) This is a delightful B&B on the vere) This gorgeous place is decorated with 3rd floor of a Trastevere townhouse. It’s a ­polished antiques and rich contrasting simple affair with two guestrooms sharing chintzes that make the interiors feel like a a single bathroom and a small living room, country cottage. It’s a lovely place to stay, but the homey decor, pot plants and books and the owners are friendly and helpful. create a lovely, warm atmosphere. The own- er, Sylvie, also has a further three rooms BUONANOTTE GARIBALDI GUESTHOUSE €€ on the floor above at La Casa di Kaia (Map Map p316 (%06 5833 0733; www.buonanottegar- p316; %338 7700067; www.kaia-trastevere.it; ibaldi.com; Via Garibaldi 83; r €210-280, closed 7 Via dei Vascellari 55; with shared bathroom s €45- Jan‒7 Mar; aiW; gPiazza Sonnino, jPiazza 55, d €65-75; W; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Sonnino) With only three rooms, this is a ha- Trastevere). There’s no lift. ven: an upmarket B&B in a divinely pretty inner-city villa, set around a courtyard. The LA FORESTERIA ORSA MAGGIORE HOSTEL € rooms are beautifully decorated and there Map p316 (%06 689 37 53; www.casainternazi- are works of art and sculpture all over the onaledelledonne.org; 2nd fl, Via San Francesco di place – this is artist Luisa Longo’s house. Sales 1a; dm €26, s/d €75/110, without bathroom Pick of the rooms is Blue, upstairs, which €52/72; iW; gPiazza Trilussa) This lesbian-­ opens onto a greenery-shaded terrace. friendly, women-only guesthouse (boys 222 HOTEL SANTA MARIA HOTEL €€ HOTEL LANCELOT HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%06 589 46 26; www.hotelsantamaria. Map p314 (%06 7045 0615; www.lancelothotel. info; Vicolo del Piede 2; s €90-225, d €100-290, tr com; Via Capo d’Africa 47; s €100-128, d €130- €130-330 ; aiW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di 196; aW; gVia di San Giovanni in Laterano) A Trastevere) Walk along the ivy-lined approach great location near the Colosseum, striking and you’ll enter a tranquil haven. Surround- views, and helpful English-speaking staff ing a spacious modern cloister (a former

Sleeping – the family-run Lancelot scores across convent site), shaded by orange trees, rooms the board. The lobby and communal areas are cool and comfortable, decorated in sunny gleam with marble and crystal while the colours, and with terracotta floors. There are spacious rooms exhibit a more classic style. some larger family rooms. The staff is pro-

SAN GIOVANNI & TESTACCIO GIOVANNI SAN fessional, and there’s access for people with HOTEL ROMANCE HOTEL €€ a disability. Nearby Residenza Santa Maria Map p314 (%06 8929 5106; www.hotelromance. (Map p316; %06 5833 5103; www.residenzasan- it; Via Marco Aurelio 37a; s €70-140, d €70-200; tamaria.com; Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 20; s €90- aW; mColosseo) A warm welcome awaits 190, d €100-230; iW) is its smaller sister. at this family-run three-star near the Colos- seum. It has quiet, comfy rooms decorated VILLA DELLA FONTE B&B €€ in traditional Roman style and views over a Map p316 (%06 580 37 97; www.villafonte.com; lush garden next door. Via della Fonte dell’Olio 8; r €80-230; aW; gViale j di Trastevere, Viale di Trastevere) A terracotta- oHOTEL SANT’ANSELMO HOTEL €€€ hued, ivy-shrouded gem, Villa della Fonte is Map p314 (%06 57 00 57; www.aventinohotels. a romantic choice, occupying a 17th-century com; Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2; s €90-265, d €99- building in a street off Piazza Santa Maria 290; aW; gVia Marmorata) A ravishing ro-

in Trastevere. It has five rooms, all of which mantic hideaway in the elegant Aventino  are simply decorated but have pretty out- district. Its rooms are not the biggest but looks, good bathrooms and comfortable they are stylish, juxtaposing four-poster beds. The sunny garden terrace is a plus. beds, Liberty-style furniture and marble bathrooms with modern touches. oDONNA CAMILLA SAVELLI HOTEL €€€ Map p316 (%06 58 88 61; www.hoteldonnacamilla- savelli.com; Via Garibaldi 27; d €165-250; aiW; 4 gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) It’s sel- Villa Borghese & dom you have such an exquisite opportunity Northern Rome as to stay in a converted convent designed oPALM GALLERY HOTEL HOTEL €€ by Borromini. It’s been beautifully updated; Map p324 (%06 6478 1859; www.palmgalleryho- muted colours complement the serene con- tel.com; Via delle Alpi 15d; s €100-120, d €100-210; cave and convex curves of the architecture, aW; gVia Nomentana, gViale Regina Margher- and service is excellent. The pricier of the 78 ita) Housed in an early-20th-century villa, rooms overlook the cloister garden or have this gorgeous hotel sports an eclectic look views of Rome, and are decorated with an- that effortlessly blends African and Middle tiques – it’s worth forking out that bit extra. Eastern art with original art-deco furni- ture, exposed brickwork and hand-painted tiles. Rooms are individually decorated, 4 San Giovanni with the best offering views over the wiste- & Testaccio ria and thick greenery in the surrounding streets. oALTHEA INN B&B € Map p314 (%339 4353717, 06 9893 2666; www. altheainn.com; Via dei Conciatori 9; d €70-125; mPiramide) In a workaday apartment block, 4 Southern Rome this friendly B&B offers superb value for HOTEL ABITART HOTEL €€ money and easy access to Testaccio’s bars, Map p326 (%06 454 31 91; www.abitarthotel. clubs and restaurants. Its spacious, light- com; Via Matteucci 12; d €130-150; mPiramide, filled rooms sport a modish look with white dOstiense) Located in the gritty, trendy Os- walls and tasteful modern furniture. Each tiense area, the Abitart is decorated with also has a small terrace. a pop-arty feel, and is close to some good restaurants. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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