PDF

Country Coverage At the time of research very few travellers were heading to Guinea, & Niger so we’re providing historical and cultural information rather than reviews and listings. A good source of information for on-the-ground travel in these Guinea, Mali & countries is Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree on-line Niger travel forum www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree. (PDF Chapter) Edition 8th Edition, Sept 2013 Pages 12 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Page Range 204-207, 234-237, • Guinea Today • Niger History 295-298 • Guinea History Useful Links • Guinea Music & Culture Want more guides? Head to our shop • Understand Malit • Mali Today Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here • Mali History • Mali Arts & Culture Need more help? • Understand Niger Head to our FAQs • Niger Today Stay in touch Contact us here

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Guinea

Rugged Landscapes & Vibrant Beats Guinea Today...... 205 Imagine you’re travelling on smooth highway, and then get History...... 206 tempted by a tiny, dusty turn-off into rugged terrain, where surprising beauty and treacherous vistas define the route. Music & Culture...... 206 Guinea is that turn-off. This is a country blessed with amaz- ing landscapes; from the mountain plateau Fouta Djalon to wide Sahelian lands and thick forests. Fast Facts Overland drivers are drawn here by rugged tracks, and the challenge of steering their vehicles over rocks and ¨ ¨Capital Conakry washed-out paths. Nature lovers can lose themselves on ¨¨Population 10.8 million long hikes past plunging waterfalls, proud hills and tiny ¨¨Languages French, villages, or track elephants through virgin rainforest. While Malinke, Pulaar (Fula) and Guinea is not famed for its beaches, those it does have are Susu stunning, and often deserted. ¨¨Area 245,857 sq km ¨¨Currency Guinean Guinea Top Sights franc (GFr) ¨¨Îles de Los Stretch out on palm-fringed strands, sipping ¨ ¨Visa requirements 90- fresh coconut juice day visa and yellow-fever ¨ certificate required ¨Fouta Djalon Ramble through the mountains and swim in the waterfalls of this majestic mountain plateau ¨¨Tourist information ¨ www.ontguinee.org ¨Bossou Come face to face with chattering chimps ¨¨Conakry Hop through the capital’s dubious dives, getting drunk on some of West Africa’s best live music ¨¨Forêt Classée de Ziama Track elephants in the virgin rainforest ¨¨Parc National du Haut Niger Look for chimps and buffaloes in one of West Africa’s last tropical dry-forest ecosystems ¨¨Kankan Squeeze through narrow market streets and visit the beautiful Grand Mosquée in this lively university town Guinea UGnderstanduinea Today Guinea 205

- - - - River Touba Sipilou 100 km 60 miles (1752m)

Minignan CÔTE Niger Mt Nimba D'IVOIRE

a n Beyla o Lola

e i g n e

i Kérouané R Niani Siguiri

u Mandiana

Kita t Bossou

Kankan G s Yekepa 0 0 River Bankan e Koyama

Kourémalé Milo r r Ganta

e o Diéké

p F N'zérékoré Tokounou p Macenta

River Kouroussa U Kissidougou Forêt

Classée River

M A L I de Ziama

afing

B Faranah Dinguiraye Guéckédou Tinkisso Parc National du Haut Niger L I B E R I A Gberia-Fotombu Forokonia After After meeting in in Janu Alpha a half in After opposition, century Conde, from the Malinke ethnic group, was group, ethnic Malinke the from Conde, democratic first Guinea’s in winner declared in France from independence since election ten ethnic kindled the vote However, 1958. rival, Cellou Dalein defeated sions. Conde’s group, ethnic Fula the of member a is Diallo, ous reactions. On 28 September 2009, army army 2009, September 28 On reactions. ous elements quashed a large demonstration with extreme violence. A UN commission denounced the events as a crime against and humanity, it ‘Dadis’ is thought later, that months over 150 Two killed. were people dispute a following killed) not (but shot was Diakite. Toumba aide-de-camp his with Sekouba vice-president his ‘Dadis’, 2010, ary Konaté and Blaise Compaoré, of , produced president a formal state of a return promising of 12 ment principles A months. six within rule civilian to Guinea tran the supervised government provisional 2010. of end the at rule civilian to sition Kailahun Source of the Niger Marella Dabola - - - - Touqué Kenema Bo

Kédougou F o u t a D j a l o n o l a j D a t u o F Mamou La Dame de Mali (1515m) Chutes de Ditinn Labé Kabala Dalaba L E O N E Pita S I E R R A Medina-Oula

Niokolo-Badiar Makeni River River Parc Transfrontalier Kambia Konkouré Koundara Les Eaux de Kilissi

Gambia Djinkan Kindia

Saréboïdo )

Konkouré Massif du Tamgué Koumbia Chutes de Saala Télimélé Donghol-Touma Pamelap Sambaïlo Fria Coyah death in 2008 of president Lower Guinea FREETOWN Boffa Pitche Vélingara Tambacounda O C E A N Boké Québo CONAKRY A T L A N T I C S E N E G A L Kolda B I S S A U Bafatá Îles de Los G U I N E A - Kamsar Sobané Mt Kakoulima (1011m However, his announcement in 2009 that that 2009 in announcement his However, Îles Cape Verga Buba Cacine Tristao Guinea Today UNDERSTAND GUINEA he would consider standing in the upcoming upcoming the in standing consider would he elections, and increasing violence commit furi provoked army, the of members by ted and and new the mining of 30% deals owning (Guinea resources, is natural in rich hugely many him gained resources), bauxite world’s followers. racks. His initial measures, such as cracking cracking as such measures, initial His racks. one is (Guinea rings drug Guinean on down hubs of of the Africa’s trade), West cocaine and announcing measures anti-corruption Lansana Lansana Conté, an army under contingent Dadis Moussa Captain Camara took power in that he’d a promised ‘Dadis’ coup d’état. organ house, Guinean up the clean quickly ise elections and return to the army bar Following the ------authentic (West Africa’s Africa’s (West griots Culture Legendary Legendary South African singer and ac The The first orchestra to leap to fame was Sekou Touré’s form Sekou of Touré’s may communism Towards the end of his presidency Touré Touré the end of his presidency Towards a death, coup military Days after Touré’s in the arts, and state patronage of artistic artistic of patronage state and arts, the in Music & tion, thanks, in part, to their guitarist, Sékou Sékou guitarist, their to part, in thanks, tion, most of the one Diabaté, Fingers’ ‘Diamond generation. his of musicians talented Guin in exile in lived Makeba Miriam tivist 1980s, early the until 1960s late the from ea ernment’s emphasis on nationalist nationalist on emphasis ernment’s ité was institutions, a art, bonus. their Musicians were perfect to time allowed and commonly funded most sound the for way the paving the of – that music Guinean with associated ’70s. and 1960s the of orchestras the dance by great influenced strongly were turn, in They, Mande the of traditions singers). praise hereditary the Syli National Orchestra, whose the of one became Diabaté, Papa ‘Grand’ ist, They scene. music Guinea’s of stars greatest perfected the Guinean rumba, a fusion of Bembeya music. Latin and songs traditional Jazz would achieve even greater recogni highly disputed elections, and there were in were there and elections, disputed highly of imprisonment and obstruction of cidents In demonstrations 2007 leaders. opposition were quashed, though violently a few con prime a of nomination the as (such cessions barely and ill Severely made. were minister) until in power stayed Conté to able govern, 2008. December in death his Overshadowed on the international stage by Mali and neighbouring Guinea Senegal, musical to comes it when punch a packs still tradition. gov the but disaster, economic an been have ‘Conspiracies’ were being sensed everywhere; everywhere; sensed being were ‘Conspiracies’ were of im dissidents thousands supposed prisoned and executed. By exile. in the lived end of Guineans the 250,000 over 1960s changed many of his policies and tried to liberalise the He economy. died in March 1984. was staged by a group of colonels, includ ing the barely Lansana Conté, who He became known, president. barely educated and in measures, 1991 austerity introduced a multipar to introduce to bowed pressure ty system. political Initial hopes for a new quickly were and prosperity era of freedom dashed. Conté claimed victory in three ------COVERAGE

COUNTRY

Another source of good internet-based internet-based good of source Another is www.ontguinee.org. information mation rather than reviews and listings. and listings. than reviews mation rather on- for information of source good A Lonely is in Guinea travel the-ground forum on-line travel Tree Thorn Planet’s www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree. At the time of research very few travel few very research of the time At we’re so Guinea, to heading were lers infor and cultural historical providing Sekou Touré called his new of form called state Touré Sekou The end of French West Africa began with with began Africa West French of end The There were serious riots and violent dem violent and riots serious were There Travel here can be difficult. Guinea is not not is Guinea difficult. be can here Travel Conde’s Conde’s Conakry residence suffered an History growing paranoia triggered a reign of terror. terror. of a reign triggered paranoia growing communist models. It didn’t work; the econ the work; didn’t It models. communist omy went into a and spiral, his downward a ‘communocracy’, a blend of Africanist and a of Africanist blend a ‘communocracy’, aid aid was cut off, and there was capital. a of flight massive of membership in a commonwealth, and in and commonwealth, a in membership of French independence. total demanded stead reaction was swift: financial and technical Guinea. In was Guinea. 1958, the Sekou Touré only offer a to reject French leader African West a French colony in 1891. in colony French a European European traders settled Guinea’s coastal region, and the became country eventually empire’s capital, Niani, is in eastern Guinea. Guinea. eastern in is Niani, capital, empire’s From the and Portuguese mid-1400s other which covered a large part of western Africa Africa western of part large a covered which between the 13th and 15th centuries; the Guinea was part of the Empire of Mali, 2013. Muggings at gunpoint are increasingly increasingly are gunpoint at Muggings 2013. country. the across common and washed-out paths can be a challenge. challenge. a be can paths washed-out and early and 2012 late in Conakry in onstrations are are poorly and maintained and unreliable, laterite steep tracks, rugged overlanders, for tries tries in buses the and region, and beyond the capital Taxis scarce. are comforts creature as as set up for tourism as some other coun was was partially destroyed, but unharmed. Conde was armed armed attack in July 2011. The building marginalising marginalising his constituents, including Fula. many to to which 40% of Guineans belong. Diallo has consistently accused the president of

UHinderstandstory Guinea

Guinea 206 Guinea UMnderstandusic & Culture Guinea 207 - - - - - , , is ) ) or manioc L’Enfant Noir L’Enfant (rice fried in oil and and oil in fried (rice ) are common. common. are ) haako haako putte riz riz gras haako bantara haako Camara Laye, author of author Laye, Camara To pick up some typical arts and crafts, res it When proper out, to comes eating Fula the are groups ethnic main Guinea’s other groups, living mostly in re the mostly forest living groups, other gion, the constitute rest of the population. the inhabit re coastal Susu predominantly gion; Fula, the and Djalon; Fouta Malinke, the north and The centre. total population popu the of 85% About million. 9.8 about is is lation (the being Djalon a Muslim Fouta centre of 8% Islam), are and Christian the remainder follow traditional the animist and region reli forest the in (especially gions Côte). Basse the country’s best-known writer. best-known country’s the in cooperatives mud-cloth and indigo the try towns. many taurants are rare outside though Conakry, most towns have a couple of basic eating serving houses meat fish, fried with served and In paste tomato chips. and chicken simple or meat vegetables) or from made sauces creamy Djalon, Fouta and ( leaves potato ( leaves (about 40% of the Fifteen 20%). and 30%) (about Susu (about population), Malinke ------player player kora Dance Dance is also popular in Guinea. The Alongside Alongside Kanté and Sekouba Diabaté, In the early 1980s, Guinea’s dire economic economic dire Guinea’s 1980s, early the In shows. shows. dance group Les Ballets Africains today re today Les group dance Africains Ballets ballet African of West ‘prototype’ the mains troupes, while Circus Baobab dance their with mixes acrobatics and shows peze tra at Guinea’s at poor Guinea’s living and conditions po name in The best-known corruption. litical Sam. de Bill is hip-hop Guinean Africa meets Jimi Hendrix’), and and Hendrix’), Jimi meets Africa Guinea and Diawara. Djeli Moussa vocalist many with scene, hip-hop vibrant a has also young artists using their music to lash out who who joined Bembeya Jazz at the age of 19 mu popular 1990s, the in solo going before sicians today include Ba Cissoko (a band whose sound has been described as ‘West releases releases were recorded. The centre of the pop world soon shifted to where Paris, ac claimed Guinean vocalist and kora player based. was Kanté Mory situation had worsened and large orchestras orchestras large and worsened had situation to became difficult fund, many forcing art ists to , where 90% of all Guinean recording recording with and performing alongside musicians. local top the of some Mali% 223 / POP 14.5 MILLION

Rugged Land of Sahelian Sands & Understand Mali...... 235 Lush Forests Mali Today...... 235 Like an exquisite sandcastle formed in a harsh desert land- History...... 236 scape, Mali is blessed by an extraordinary amount of beauty, wonders, talents and knowledge. Arts & Culture...... 236 Yet for now, it’s landscapes, monuments, mosques and music bars are off-limits, sealed from tourists by a conflict that is threatening the culture of this remarkable country. Fast Facts The beating heart of Mali is Bamako, where Ngoni and Kora musicians play to crowds of dancing Malians from all ¨ ¨Capital Bamako ethnicities, while in the Dogon country, villages still cling to ¨¨Population 15 million the cliffs as they did in ancient times. ¨¨Area 1,240,140 sq km Further west, Fula women strap silver jewellery to their ears and their belongings to donkeys, forming caravans wor- ¨¨ French, Languages thy of beauty pageants as they make their way across the Bambara, Fulfulde, hamada (dry, dusty scrubland). Tamashek, Dogon and And in the northeast, the writings of ancient African civili- Songhai zations remain locked in the beautiful libraries of . ¨¨Money West African CFA franc; US$1 = CFA504.29, €1 = CFA656 Mali Top Sights ¨¨ Hot (October to Seasons ¨¨Dogon Country Rose-coloured villages, big blue skies, February), very hot (April to sacred crocodiles and sandstone cliffs June), wet (July to August) ¨¨Djenné Stunning mud-brick town with a fairy-tale mosque ¨ ¨Tourist Information www. overlooking a clamorous Monday market le-mali.com/omatho/index. htm ¨¨Bamako Spicy grilled fish, live music, sprawling markets and motorbikes purring along the banks of the ¨¨Visa One- to three-month visas available at Mali ¨¨Timbuktu Few places in the world hold a pursuit of embassies; short-stay and knowledge so dear, with its ancient libraries, monuments and transit visas may be issued never-digitized texts on philosophy and astronomy at borders depending on ¨¨Segou Acacia trees, shea butter, pottery and waterside security situation. griots ¨¨Niger River Africa’s third-longest river, bending and twisting on its way to the ancient Sahelian trading kingdoms

Mali UMnderstandali Today Mali 235 NIGERIA - - - -

Y

s e d

r a r d A NIAME Ménaka

N I G E R

s a h g ô f I r B E N I N

a Bordj-Mokhtar Rive

Kidal r Réserve d'Ansongo-Ménaka Labbéganza

O Nige TOG Anéfis Ansongo Gao

r Tessalit Bourem A La Main Gossi de Fatima Hombori

a

A L G E R I A d OUAGADOUGOU Gourma- Rharous Ouahigouya Douentza G H A N F A S O Réserve de Boni Tin-Techoun B U R K I N A h

Diré

Taoudenni A z a o u â â u o a z A Visiting Mali was dangerous and strongly strongly and dangerous was Mali Visiting Sévaré Koro mality mality in the capital, Bamako, Venturing the remains. risk of violence and kidnapping Sevare and than east or north further caution. extreme with done be should destroying ancient monuments, tombs and monuments, ancient destroying were civilians 700,000 of remnants history. wind to 2013, in flee and early forced 2012 ing up in refugee camps in neighbouring countries as French forces and West Regional African Ecowas (Economic Commu launched troops States) African West of nity air raids and ground attacks, successfully pushing back the Islamists from many of their strongholds. French forces began to draw down in April 2013, but the majority of the had displaced not home returned at con attacks Jihadi and research, of time the tinued. unrecommended at the time of research. Although there is some semblance of nor Douentza BOBO- DIOULASSO Faramana

a - - - - Banfora San Taghaza Araouane Lake Goundam Ferkessédougou Mopti Faguibine Niafunké Timbuktu Koutiala

Djenné River Pogo

S

E

Delta Niger Inland Nampala Bani Dogon Sikasso Country Néma Ségou CÔT 250 miles 400 km Koulikoro Bougouni D'IVOIRE Nara BAMAKO Manankoro Kati Timbedgha Odiénné Nioro Ayoûn-el- Atroûs du Baoulé

de la Boucle

Parc National Kankan Kita iver R Kourémalé Siguiri

r Tintâne

Bafoulabé Jiba) (Djoliba

e er

M A U R I T A N I A g

iv Yélimané

Kiffa Ni Kayes Today

l R 0 0 Manantali

ga

ne L Diboli SENEGA du Bafing Somewhat Somewhat ironically, the coup only Parc National Se GUINEA Sélibabi Mali UNDERSTAND MALI lowing Islamist lowing groups Islamist to gain hold of the Tuareg the out pushed in They turn region. in law sharia on and to went install groups the ancient towns of Gao and Timbuktu, against an Tuareg rebellion in the northeast northeast the in rebellion Tuareg an against country. the of al in the northeast, the situation worsened and and his cabinet in the run-up to elections in which ATT was not sup planning to adequately not stand, was leader the claiming porting the under-equipped Malian army prise to many, although not watch to close although to many, prise ers of former President Amadou Toumani to referred (commonly Toure as ATT) who A in a band was 2012. ousted in coup April of mutinous soldiers ousted the president sur a as came 2012 in grace from fall Mali’s ------Culture Tuareg Tuareg rebellion gained ground in the the majority of life Malians, continues The Tuareg rebellion began in began and 1990, rebellion The Tuareg transitional an interim established Touré The During During the Cold War, Mali was firmly Arts & For For conflict the of impact the although usual, as weighs heavily on their minds. For those who eke out a living working in shops or businesses, the emphasis is on earning ers following ers the following Libyan civil Islamist war. Qaeda, Al to linked those including fighters, gained footing in the northeast soon after, ousting the main pour Mouvement le and Lib group Tuareg (MNLA) d’Azawad eration to forcing 400,000 civilians flee the region an and imposed was law sharia harsh after A cient destroyed. monuments transitional Traore, Dioncounda by headed government, to han weak too deemed but installed, was and later forces French alone. dle the crisis ECOWAS troops launched air and ground in offensives an attempt to push back the 2013. January in Islamists the following year a peaceful prodemocracy prodemocracy a peaceful year following the from fire machine-gun drew demonstration security forces. Three days of killed. were people rioting 150 which fol during lowed, by led army, the provoked finally unrest The General Amadou Toumani Touré (General control. seize to known), was he as ATT government and gained considerable re spect when he resigned a year keep later, elections. multiparty hold to promise his ing But he was rewarded for his patience and 2002. April in president elected by 2012 and 2011 in bolstered was and 2007 fight unemployed and weapons of influx an rice and cotton. But Mali remained the poor poor the remained Mali But cotton. and rice d’Ivoire. Côte and Senegal of neighbour Independence Mali became independent in 1960 (for Senegal), with it few a was months federated under the one-party was Keïta 1968, In rule Keïta. Modibo president, of Mali’s first led by Moussa by officers army overthrown Traoré. in the Soviet camp; food shortages constant, were especially during the ing devastat of and droughts 1980–85. 1968–74 One bright spot came in 1987 when surplus. Mali grain pro first its duced ------

COVERAGE

COUNTRY

from Bamako (http://bridges Bamako from frombamako.com). lonelyplanet.com/thorntree. Other lonelyplanet.com/thorntree. infor internet-based good of sources (local www.maliactu.net mation are Bridges like and blogs in French) news tion rather than reviews and listings. A and listings. than reviews tion rather on-the- for information of source good Planet’s in Mali is Lonely travel ground www. forum online travel Tree Thorn At the time of research very few travel few very research the time of At pro we’re Mali so to heading were lers informa and cultural viding historical The The French arrived in Mali during the From the 8th From to the Mali 16th centuries, The instability is deeply felt by most Mal most by felt deeply is instability The History able the export of cheap cash crops, such as as such crops, cash cheap of export the able ing ing the 1200km train Dakar–Bamako line, which was built with forced labour to en colonial era, was Mali the colonial of scene a hand includ projects, ful of infrastructure major mid-19th mid-19th century. Throughout the French broke the monopoly on the broke monopoly of power the Sahel kingdoms. empires empires of Ghana, Mali and Af Songhaï. The West the along ships European of arrival however, the from 15th coast rican century, formed the centrepiece of the great empires empires great the of centrepiece the formed the most notably antiquity, African of West great empires. great Saharan Saharan trade in gold, salt and slaves had the begun, facilitating rise of West Africa’s Djenné, Djenné, one of West Africa’s oldest cities. By the 6th trans- AD, century the lucrative in wildlife. in By wildlife. 300 BC, set large organised near most notably had developed, tlements ern ern Mali has been inhabited since 10,000 BC, when the Sahara was fertile and rich Early Empires north that suggests art in Rock the Sahara

only Mali’s future that is under threat but its its but threat under is that future Mali’s only history. and culture long-celebrated destruction destruction of important sites in Gao and Timbuktu, many sadly feel that it is not ians; many businesses have closed, tourism tourism closed, have businesses many ians; the with dramatically; dropped has revenue

UHinderstandstory Mali

Mali 236 Mali UArtsnderstand & Culture Mali 237 ------Tuareg (6%), traditionally nomadic nomadic traditionally (6%), Tuareg Between Between 80% and 90% of Malians are Concentrated in the Concentrated centre and south of pastoralists and traders, inhabit the fringes the fringes inhabit and traders, pastoralists Sahara. the of and Muslim, 2% be Animist are Christian. liefs often overlap with Islamic and Chris areas. rural in especially practices, tian without without first asking after their health and families. their People is population growing by Mali’s almost 3% per which year, means that the number of Mal of 48% years; 20 every doubles Malians age. of years 15 under are ians largest are the Mali’s Bambara the country, Fulani population). the of (33% group ethnic there wherever found are pastoralists (17%) is grazing land for their particu livestock, larly in The the delta. inland Niger lighter- skinned - - - - Tuareg rebellion. ‘I was living quietly in my country, country, in my living quietly ‘I was rebellion. Tuareg ON

PLAYED

player Bassekou Kouyate, who also served as a griot to ousted President President ousted to as a griot served who also Kouyate, Bassekou player BANDS

ngoni THE

backdrop of the events of 2012 shook artists and musicians as well as politicians, well as politicians, as and musicians artists shook 2012 of the events of backdrop The breadth and depth of Mali’s musical soundtrack is attributable not just to centu to just not is attributable soundtrack musical Mali’s of and depth The breadth Outside of Mali, the music plays on, including bluesy stuff such as that from the late from the late stuff such as that bluesy including on, the music plays Mali, of Outside Fortunately, music is harder to destroy than the threatened ancient monuments and ancient monuments than the threatened destroy to music is harder Fortunately, , an intoxicating Tuareg group of former rebels from Kidal, were caught up up caught were Kidal, from rebels former of group Tuareg an intoxicating Tinariwen, Keita, has become a superstar in his own right. We have yet to see what kind of sounds sounds of see what kind to yet We have own right. in his a superstar has become Keita, will produce. history in Mali’s chapter tense the next, where in West Africa, Mali’s musicians were promoted as the cultural standard-bearers standard-bearers as the cultural promoted were musicians Mali’s Africa, West in where were ‘orchestras’ state-sponsored and numerous country independent the newly of the Mali Railway of (actual employees de Bamako Band Rail The legendary founded. Salif the charismatic ex-members, of its and one the greatest, one of was Corporation) Traoré. Some scholars believe that the roots of American blues lie with the Malian slaves lie with the Malian slaves blues American of that the roots believe scholars Some Traoré. plantations. on US who worked As else government. postindependence Mali’s of the policies to but also tradition of ries access to funding, electricity and inspiration. In the northeast, sharia law has meant that meant has sharia law In the northeast, and inspiration. electricity funding, to access been silenced. have and dancing venues bands live sta Ali Farka’s from many include performers blues much-loved Other Touré. Ali Farka Lobi and Salah Baba Touré, Farka Vieux son Ali Farka’s Bocoum, Afel among them ble, were attacked and killed for no reason. That’s what made me leave Mali. I had to go, we we go, I had to Mali. what made me leave That’s no reason. and killed for attacked were he said. our homeland,’ leave to but much choice have didn’t really restricting musicians, some silenced but the crisis has certainly Timbuktu of libraries ly held in January and organized by Tuareg musicians, has become another victim of the the victim of another become has musicians, Tuareg by January and organized ly held in fled , group Tuareg his with the world toured who recently Ag Issa, Amano crisis. the 2012 of in the wake the country people Tuareg ‘My us. he told changed!’ Everything that shook all our lives. until the day ATT was in the middle of recording an album when the coup hit. He finished the record, record, the He finished hit. coup an album when the recording in the middle of was ATT – is indelible. sales his future – and perhaps on it the coup of but the mark and turn missing going their members of with some in 2012, times in the crisis multiple usual Desert, in the the Festival Sadly countries. in neighboring camps ing up in refugee The The country. the leave to musicians Tuareg forcing and album recordings interrupting famous AND Malians hold fast to tradition and polite and to tradition fast hold Malians In In the of northeast the life country, has ness ness is respected. Malians find it rude street in the to someone or stop questions ask outside of marriage and live music is banned. banned. is music live and marriage of outside towns the from fled not have who those For become has life Timbuktu, and Gao Kidal, of camps in refugee those For miserable. fairly still. worse it’s countries, neighbouring in is followed is is and – but liberal followed moderate many social being and drinking dancing, enjoy heads, their cover must women Now terflies. are couples stoned to death for sex having changed drastically. The imposition of sharia sharia of imposition The drastically. changed law has meant that many bars and restau Mal of majority The closed. been have rants that Islam of strain the but Muslim, are ians enough to take care of their (large) families families (large) of their care to take enough placed have many But basis. day-to-day a on long-term plans on bring. hold, will future the as what predict can’t they simply Niger

Haunting Desertscapes & Ancient Understand Niger...... 296 Cities Niger Today...... 296 Niger only seems to make the news for negative reasons: its History...... 297 recent coup, the Tuareg Rebellion, a devastating famine. But visit this desert republic and you’ll find a warm and gener- Culture...... 297 ous Muslim population and superb tout-free travel through Food & Drink...... 298 ancient caravan cities at the edge of the Sahara. Environment...... 298 To the north, the stark splendour of the Aïr Mountains hides Neolithic rock art and stunning oasis towns. Within the expansive dunes of the Ténéré Desert you’ll find dino- saur graveyards and deserted medieval settlements. Head Fast Facts south and the ancient trans-Saharan trade-route town of ¨¨Capital Niamey Agadez and the sultanate of Zinder are home to magnificent ¨¨Population 16.3 million mazes of mudbrick architecture. For nature lovers, there’s the fantastically diverse Parc Regional du W and herds of ¨ ¨Languages French, Hausa, wild giraffes at Kouré. Djerma, Fulfulde, Tamashek The security situation meant that much of Niger was off ¨¨Area 1,267,000 sq km limits to travellers at the time of writing. Attacks against ¨¨Currency CFA franc foreigners have occurred across the Sahel, and the threat of kidnapping remains high. ¨¨Visa requirements A tourist visa is required, valid for three months Niger Top Sights ¨¨Tourist information ¨ www.friendsofniger.org ¨Agadez Spiral up to the spiky summit of a majestic mud mosque for incredible views over the Sahara and beyond ¨¨Kouré Wander in wonder with West Africa’s last wild herd of giraffes ¨¨Zinder Explore the Birni Quartier and soak up the brutal history at the sultan’s palace in this fascinating Hausa city ¨¨Parc Regional du W Come face to face with lions, crocodiles, monkeys and elephants in this incredibly diverse national park ¨¨Ténéré Desert Dive into the deep end with an expedition to this sublime section of the Sahara ¨¨Aïr Mountains Make tracks with camels through red sands and blue rocks in these mystical mountains

- - CHAD -

A Y B I L

t r

Nokou e

Lake

Chad s

Massakori e

Madama D Dao Timmi Bilma N'DJAMÉNA Agadem

Séguédine

Dirkou

a

t r e

s

e

D

m

é

r CAMEROON é

n l é

T i

Plateau du DjadoDjado B Diffa Nguigmi Fachi Termit Gouré Arbre du Ténéré Réserve Naturelle Nationale de l'Aïr et du Ténéré Terim Tazolé (2022m) Mt Bagzane Zinder Tanout (1944m) Aïr Gréboun Kano There have been several high-profile kid high-profile several been have There The country’s main export, uranium, is Mountains Agadez and kidnapping. Niger began producing and and producing began Niger kidnapping. and billion a US$5 following 2011 in oil refining China. with deal joint-venture slavery organisations, slavery thousands of organisations, people p389). (see subjugation in live still nappings of tourists to and linked gunmen foreign by years workers few past the over and Sahel the in operating factions al-Qaeda 2010 September and – in April zone Sahara Niamey. near 2011 January in and Arlit, near The Islamist takeover of northern Mali in opened and vacuum a security created 2012 up a safe haven for extremists Tens and organ desert. Sahara the in groups ised-crime of thousands of refugees flooded into the country. prone to price and fluctuations the indus terrorism of threat the by hurt been has try Tezerzaït Elméki Jibiya - - S a h a r a Téloua N I G E R I A Arlit Iferouâne In-Gall Maradi Aderbissinat Abalak Tamanrasset Madaoua Illela Tchin- Tabaradene Assamakka Birni Tahoua Tillia In Guezzam N'Konni Kamba Tegguida-n-Tessoum Gaya 200 km 120 miles Dosso A L G E R I A Baleyara Kollo Tuareg Tuareg in the north of the Kouré Parc du W Tamou Regional M A L I BENIN Ayorou

Labbézanga 0 0

River NIAMEY TOGO slavery in the country. According to anti- According country. in the slavery A A year later Niger again made headlines Gao Foetchango Kantchari Makalondi Dori

Niger Today UNDERSTAND NIGER a young woman from the continued practice practice continued the from woman young a of Community of West African States (Ecowas) (Ecowas) States African West of Community protect to failing of guilty Niger found court around the world for less-than-positive rea less-than-positive for world the around Economic an case landmark a in when sons 20th century. 20th of previous ceasefires, in a conflict that has that in a conflict ceasefires, of previous early the since intervals regular at reignited proceeds proceeds from the enormous min region’s eral wealth and failing to meet conditions In In 2007 the country began a rebellion against Niger’s whom government, it accused of hoarding A A series of events have unpleasant defined Niger to the world outside in recent years. Niger

UNinderstandger Today Niger

Niger 296 Niger UHinderstandstory Niger 297

------COVERAGE

COUNTRY 2009 Mamadou Tandja won a referen won Tandja Mamadou 2009 At the time of research very few travel few very research of the time At we’re so Niger to heading were lers infor and cultural historical providing and list than reviews mation rather for information of source good A ings. is Lonely in Niger travel on-the-ground forum on-line travel Tree Thorn Planet’s www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree. internet-based good of Other sources www.friendsofniger.org are information and http://voyageforum.com/forum/ niger/. Despite Despite most Nigeriens being devoutly More More than 90% of live Nigeriens in the (over Muslim predominantly are Nigeriens In In In 1999, during widespread strikes and Culture practise traditional animist religions. Due to to Due religions. animist traditional com practise Islamic Nigeria’s of influence strong the some munity, Muslims around the border law. sharia for call Maradi of town Muslim, the government is steadfastly Niger boasts the highest birth rate in the world: women have a staggering average of eight children each. 2025. The by million population 21.4 is reach to predicted south, which is of 23% and dominated by 56% up Hausa making and Songhaï-Djerma, The larg next respectively. populace Tu Niger’s and (8.5%) Fulani nomadic are groups est Kanuri and north, Niger’s in both (8%), areg Chad. and Zinder between located (4.3%), ur Christian of percentages small with 90%), still populations rural Several ban dwellers. economic stagnation, president Mainassara Mainassara president stagnation, economic (a 1996 coup leader) was and assassinated democracy re-established. for victory witnessed Peaceful 2004 and 1999 in tions elec Tandja. Mamadou constitution the change to him allowing dum the In to him term. a for run to allow third won that year Tandja elections presidential ac not did Ecowas though margin, large a by mem Niger’s suspended and result the cept in Tandja on turned were tables The bership. 2010 when a coup February in military Ni amey led to military A his arrest. year-long leader opposition veteran when ended junta was Issoufou winner declared Mahamadou 2011. March in poll presidential a of ------The The 1980s were unkind to all: uranium Kountché Kountché hit the jackpot in 1968 when Maintaining Maintaining close French ties, Niger’s In In 1958 France offered its West Afri French rule kind. wasn’t They French cultivated The French strolled in The strolled late French in the 1800s, History erupted, eventually forcing the government the government forcing eventually erupted, in 1993. elections However, into multiparty presi elected the overthrew junta military a 1996. in Ousmane, Mahamane dent, killed thousands, and one-party politics hin politics one-party and thousands, killed dered By democracy. the 1990s, Nigeriens were aware of political ing West Africa changes and mass demonstrations sweep highway’ between Agadez and Arlit. Yet not Yet and Arlit. Agadez between highway’ skyrocketed inflation was everyone smiling: ever. than more suffered poorest the and prices collapsed, the great 1983 drought uranium was discovered near the town of Ar of town the near discovered was uranium leading soon ballooned, incomes lit. Mining ‘uranium the including projects, ambitious to Colonel Colonel Seyni Kountché after food stocks were in discovered homes ministerial dur Kountché 1968–74. of drought Sahel the ing council. ruling military a established sphere of influence. of sphere ran a Diori, repres Hamani president, first several After surviving state. sive one-party coups, he was overthrown by Lieutenant can can colonies self-government in a French union or Count immediate independence. less votes enabling disappeared, France to its within remain to wished Niger that claim the enforced shift from subsistence farming farming subsistence from shift enforced the the compounded crops cash high-density to migration. ongoing Sahara’s culminating in Agadez’s siege in 1916–17, the the 1916–17, in siege Agadez’s in culminating control. had French abuses whose chiefs, traditional of power the and control, of means a as encouraged were Decidedly Decidedly unamused, they dispatched the punitive Voulet-Chanoîne expedition, de stroying much of southern Niger in 1898– 99. Although Tuareg revolts continued, ished in Niger, trafficking gold, salt and slaves. and salt Mali flour and Songhaï, the Kanem-Borno, gold, trafficking Niger, in ished resistance. meeting stronger-than-expected the desert pushed those populations south the those pushed desert populations a ward, Niger became on fixture the trans- the 10th Between route. trade and Saharan as such empires, African West centuries, 18th Before the Sahara started swallowing Niger swallowing the started Before Sahara grass verdant supported it BC, 2500 around lands, abundant wildlife and after Long herding. and populations on hunting thriving

- - - - - (rice with (kebabs). Cous (kebabs). riz sauce brochettes Desertification, Desertification, Niger’s greatest envi dry woodland The savannah southwest’s Sitting for a cup of Tuareg tea is tea reward a for cup of Tuareg Sitting Environment Food Food & Drink ard Tuareg ard fare, while Tuareg sauce) is omnipresent in Standard restaurant dishes include Niger’s grilled south. fish capitaine, or (particularly Nile perch), beef and chicken, Sa the with desert, is Niger of Three-quarters remaining The a year. 10km advancing hara zone south is the quarter Sahel, semidesert the of include features the Notable Sahara. Niger River (Africa’s which third-longest), the southwest; Niger’s through 300km flows formations volcanic dark the Mountains, Aïr of which rise over 2000m; and dunes. the sand Ténéré sweeping spectacularly Desert’s is problem, caused ronmental by primarily overgrazing and Quartz-rich deforestation. soil also prevents topsoil from anchoring, erosion. causing hosts one of West W. du Africa’s better Regional Parc wildlife parks, rice Dates, yoghurt, and are mutton stand cous cous and ragout are also Outside popular. diminish. options vegetarian Niamey ing and thirst-quenching. For in a your step, try For Bière a Niger. serious wobble wine. palm some down stagger, ------sil is well produced from produced , artisans artisans du cuir . To Tuareg, crosses are pow crosses Tuareg, . To (prayer), when (prayer), Niger grinds to a (Djerma blankets) (Djerma salat While While Islam plays the greatest role in Religion aside, survival occupies most Tuareg are artisans best-known Niger’s Leatherwork by Leatherwork Beautifully unique to Niger are vibrant email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions and conditions the terms See it. or resell know, you everyone email it to the right thing with ‘Do - the above saying of way a longer for on our site our content.’ to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other In other only. purposes non-commercial personal, it for use to ask you to mass site, a peer-to-peer to this chapter upload don’t please words, © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, use, to you for it easier make To Ltd. Pty Publications Planet © Lonely fair think it’s we In return, digitally restricted. is not this chapter to access ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd daily life, shaping beliefs and thoughts, little little thoughts, and beliefs shaping life, daily The exceptions is to biggest visible visitors. are tenu their make 90% Around days. people’s secular secular and Islam adopts a more relaxed aura than in nations with similar demo graphics. Women don’t cover their faces, alcohol is quietly consumed and some Tu areg, recognising the harshness of fast. desert Ramadan’s ignore life, partake. to journeys break even buses – halt ous living Pro from day. agriculture per and less or livestock, US$1 on surviving many bur with help to children numerous ducing a many, for is a necessity workloads dening The growth. population to contributing fact fact of children being obliged to work has rates. illiteracy adult staggering to led versmiths, who striking versmiths, produce necklaces, styl and daggers silver ornamental amulets, filigree intricate with each crosses, silver ised Tuareg areas boasting representing designs The populations. most famous cross is the croix d’Agadez bright cotton strips. cotton bright kountas erful talismans protecting against ill fortune. ill against protecting talismans erful in where tra Zinder, particularly regarded, cushions saddlebags, as such – items attrac ditional alongside rank – pouches tasselled and briefcases. and sandals like modernities tive

UderstandFod on & Drink Niger

N iger 298