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Caroline Party Dress Tutorial

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Caroline Party Dress Tutorial The Caroline Party Dress size 6 months - 12 years 1 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 2 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 The Caroline Party Dress is the perfect dress for any occasion. Fabric choices will convert this from fancy to casual, but it will always be fabulous. It features faux cap sleeves, a full skirt, invisible zipper enclosure, belt loops, underskirt, inseam pockets, peter pan collar, and the tulle kicker for extra poof. The following are suggested fabrics: woven cottons, satin, taffeta, broadcloth, velvet, fine wale corduroy Jersey knits work too! Keep an eye out for the tutorial via www.welcometothemousehouse.com Notions: *invisible zipper (cut it to the size below) -size 6 months to 18 months: 10 inch -size 2 years to 4 years: 11 inch -size 5 years to 7 years: 13 inch -size 8 years to 12 years: 17 inch *Lightweight fusible interfacing Tips for installing an invisible zipper: Zippers can be intimidating to many people, but I promise they can actually be easier than buttonholes with practice! To help you install a zipper, there are a few things that come in handy. The first and most important item is a zipper foot. Most machines come with a zipper foot, but if yours didnʼt, you can pick up a cheap plastic zipper foot attachment at the fabric store (found right near the zippers). A zipper foot simply helps get you closer to the teeth of your zipper by raising part of the foot up and over those teeth. Another helpful item is fusible zipper tape, also known as “Wonder Tape”. This can be found in the interfacing section of the fabric store. Apply this zipper tape to your zipper and the fabric to help secure the zipper before sewing. The same thing can be accomplished by using a glue stick! 3 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 4 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Customizing this dress is easy! For instance, if you have a child that has a chest measurement of a 3t, but is taller than average, cut out the 3t bodices and 4t skirt pieces. Always use the size guide to determine what size pieces you will need for best fit. 5 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Sewing Terms Glossary BACKSTITCH: The purpose of back-stitching is to secure your stitching line. To do this, stitch forward a few stitches and then, using the reverse function on your machine, stitch back over them. BASTING STITCH: Temporary stitching used to hold a sewing project in place and is removed when the permanent stitching is done. Use your longest stitch settings and do not backstitch so they can be removed easily. EASE STITCH: Stitching a length of fabric into a bit of a smaller space without resulting in gathers or puckers. GRAIN LINE: The grain line of the fabric is the direction that the fibers align along the length of the fabric. It is parallel to the selvage edges of the fabric. It is important that pattern pieces match the grain line marked on the pattern. This will insure that it hangs correctly and does not twist. SEAM ALLOWANCE: The portion of the pattern edge determining the amount of excess fabric needed to stitch a particular seam to the line of stitching. *1/2” seam allowance used on all seams, 3/4” hem allowance used on all hems SEAM FINISH: A technique used to make the seam edge look neater and keep it from fraying (knit fabrics do not fray). Although it is not essential to the completion of the garment, it can add measurably to its life. ZIGZAG over the raw edge of the seam allowance (widest width setting and length setting at 1.5-2). OVERLOCK over the raw edge of the seam allowance if you own a serger. TOPSTITCH: A line of stitching that runs parallel to a fold line or a seam line. Because topstitching shows on the finished products, it is important that the stitches are even. Stitch on the RIGHT side using the fold line or seam line and presser foot as a guide to maintain the same distance throughout the topstitching. UNDERSTITCH: Understitching is a technique used to create and control an element of movement within a certain area of a garment, and also eliminates facings from riding up to the right side of fabric. It is also a technique used to keep collars laying flat. 6 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Fabric Layout 7 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Printing a PDF Pattern Properly printing a PDF pattern is essential to your final product turning out correctly. Each printed page will have a measurement box for your convenience. You MUST check that your 3 inch/10 cm box is measuring perfectly on your printed pattern before beginning. If it isn’t, there is something off with your printer settings. Make sure that your printer is showing any one of the following: *100% *print actual size *no page scaling Here is an example of what your settings should look like: Taping pattern pages together 8 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Tape your printed pattern together, as indicated below, and cut out the size you need. If you plan to reuse the pattern, it is advisable to trace the pattern using pattern tracing paper. 9 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 My Amazing Testers 10 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Tutorial: Cut out all pieces according to the pattern pieces and measurement chart. Serge or zig zag along blue lines, as indicated by the above photo. If you choose to do the dress with all of the options, you will have: *1 front bodice (main) *2 belt loops *1 front bodice (lining) *4 pocket pieces *2 back bodices (main) *4 collar pieces *2 back bodices( linings) *2 collar interfacings *1 front outerskirt (main) *2 strips of tulle *1 front underskirt (lining) *2 back outerskirts (main) *2 back underskirts (lining) 11 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Collar Assembly If you choose to make the dress without the collar, skip to page 13. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of 2 collar pieces. Lay one interfaced collar on top of a non-interfaced collar piece with right sides together. With a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew around as indicated by my stitching lines. Leave the top of the collar open. Trim seams to 1/4 inch. Clip corners and clip around curves. Turn the collar right side out and press well. TIP: To make sure your collar sits properly on the bodice, push your collar under about 3mm. Here is a great tutorial to explain in more detail. http:www.sewinglikemad.blogspot.com/ 2013/03/free-printable-loose-peter-pan- collar.html Topstitch. 12 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Bodice Assembly Serge or zig zag, as indicated by the blue lines. With right sides together, join the bodice front and bodice back pieces together at the shoulders using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Open up and press seams open. Repeat this process for the bodice lining. 13 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Lay the collars on top of your main bodice without overlapping the collar fronts. Make sure they are centered on your bodice front. Starting from the middle, pin the collars around to the back. The collar backs should be 5/8” from the unsewn back bodices. Baste the collar around the neckline. With right sides together and using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the outer bodice to the lining bodice around the neck and the armholes. You will notice that the armholes curve out at the shoulder seams. This is to create the faux cap sleeves, so make sure you follow those curves. Clip all curves and trim seams to 1/4 inch. Turn right side out by pulling the back bodice pieces through the front bodice pieces. Press well. Understitch the neckline at this point, if desired. 14 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Now, we are going to join the front and back pieces together at the side seams. Flip the back bodice pieces over to the front bodice pieces with right sides together. Lift up the lining pieces. You will have your bodice lining pieces matched up with right sides together and you will have your outer bodice pieces matched up with right sides together. Sew together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press seams open. This is what you will have so far. Top stitch the arm holes at this point, if you choose to do so. Once again, iron your collar down well. Using a clapper or fabric hammer is also helpful for seams and collars, if you have those supplies. 15 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Making the outer skirt and under skirt WITHOUT pockets For an outer skirt with pockets, skip to page 17. Serge the two inner edges of the back skirts, as indicated by the blue lines. With right sides together, sew the front skirt panel to the 2 back panels with 1/2 inch seam allowance, as indicated by the blue lines. Serge or zig zag those seams and press to the side. Do not sew the 2 back skirt pieces together. (they are the pieces with the serged edges). Follow these steps for the underskirt, if you choose to have one. 16 Mouse House Creations (c) 2013 Making the outer skirt WITH pockets For a skirt without pockets and the under skirt, go back to page 16. Serge the two inner edges of the back skirts, as indicated by the blue lines. You will have 4 pocket pieces, all cut mirror image.
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