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Reiseführer Turkestan/Xinjiang DER WEG IST DAS ZIEL ... Seidenstraße 6. TEIL: CHINA - TURKESTAN Tipps für eine Überlandreise entlang der Seidenstraße von Europa durch die Türkei und den Iran nach Pakistan und weiter nach China oder Indien. 109 www.geocities.com/gerald_fimberger Disclaimer ieser Reiseführer ist als Einfüh- formationen über Carnet etc. rung zur Planung einer Über- Nach einer kurzen Beschreibung D landreise von Europa entlang der Sei- der Reiseroute gibt es detailliertere denstraße nach China gedacht. Er Informationen über die Länder und ersetzt auf keinen Fall kommerzielle Sehenswürdigkeiten, die im wesentli- Reiseführer, sondern soll vielmehr chen von Lonely Planet und The eine erste Orientierungshilfe unter Rough Guide stammen, gepaart mit der verwirrenden Vielzahl an Mög- einigen Einsichten von „No Shitting lichkeiten bieten. Das Buch richtet in the Toilet - The guide for when sich hauptsächlich an Rucksackrei- you've really lost it“. Noch mehr In- sende, die einen Trip von Europa formationen gibt es auf deren Websi- durch die Türkei und den Iran nach tes (www.lonelyplanet.com, www. Pakistan und weiter nach China und/ roughguides.com bzw. www. oder Indien planen. D.h., es enthält petermoore.net). Die Texte sind alle weder Informationen über die Trans- auf Englisch, was aber kein Problem sibirische Eisenbahn oder die Route sein sollte und auf jeden Fall ein gu- durch die zentralasiatischen Republi- tes Training ist, für das, was Euch ken noch autofahrerspezifische In- unterwegs erwartet ;-) Copyright © Gerald Fimberger. Alle Rechte und Irrtümer vorbehalten. Fanpost, Geldspenden und Heiratsanträge an [email protected] DER WEG IST DAS ZIEL ... 110 Inhalt 3 5 8 10 1 Einleitung 3 Türkei 7 Tibet Dauer Edirne - Dogubayazit Golmud - Mt. Everest Reisezeit Kosten 4 Iran 8 Große Städte Money, Money, Money The Great Visa Chase Xining - Hangzhou Sehenswürdigkeiten Täbriz - Zahedan Why? 9 Südwest-China 5 Pakistan Kunming - Kanton 2 Balkan Express Quetta - Sust Europa - Istanbul 10 Ex-Kolonien Ungarn: Budapest 6 China - Turkestan Macao - Hongkong Rumänien: Guidebooks - China Oradea - Bukarest The blind following the blind Bulgarien: Turkestan: Veliko Tarnovo - Sozopol Tashkurgan - Dunhuang 111 www.geocities.com/gerald_fimberger China Hinter der Großen Mauer wartet ein eigener Kontinent darauf entdeckt zu werden. er von Pakistan nach China ziemlich hoffnungsloses Unterfan- die Rough Guide als „Best of Chi- kommt, dem wird auffallen gen. Die Standardroute führt ent- na“ bezeichnet, aneinander reihe, W wie geordnet und vergleichsweise lang der Seidenstraße nach Beijing kommt eine völlig andere Route grau das Leben nach dem farben- und dann auf der für Erstbesu- heraus: Kashgar – Lhasa – Xian – frohen Chaos des Subkontinents ist. cher „empfohlenen“ Strecke über Beijing/Peking – Shanghai - Liji- Hat man das Visum für China den Osten in den Süden des Lan- ang – Dali - Xishuangbanna – Gui- schon zu Hause beantragt, sollte des: Kashgar – Urumqi - Turfan – lin – Hongkong. Nach insgesamt man beachten, dass man spätestens Dunhuang – Lanzhou - Xiahe – Xi- acht Monaten in China würde ich drei Monate nach Ausstellungsda- an – Beijing/Peking – Qingdao - sagen, dass diese Orte, nicht unbe- tum tatsächlich auch ins Land ein- Shanghai – Suzhou – Hangzhou – dingt die Auswahl der Sehenswür- reisen muss, weil sonst das Visum Guilin – Guangzhou/Kanton – digkeiten, auch ganz gut mit meinen verfällt. Also ganz kurz vor Abfahrt Hongkong. Das ist zudem die lo- Favoriten übereinstimmt. Lässt sich beantragen oder erst in Islamabad. gischste Route ohne viel Zickzack, das aber praktisch auch verwirkli- Das sollte kein Problem sein, so die sich auch gut in drei Monaten chen? lange man keine verdächtig langen schaffen lässt. Nachteil ist jedoch, Kashgar – Lhasa wäre eine Aufenthalte in Indien (Exil des Da- dass sie ab Lanzhou praktisch nur Traumroute entlang des Himalayas, lai Lama!) im Pass hat. durch Städte führt, die zudem ziem- doch leider ist die Straße nach Eine definitive Reiseroute durch lich teuer sind. Westtibet für Einzelreisende ge- das riesige Land anzugeben, ist ein Wenn ich dagegen die zehn Orte, sperrt. Die kürzeste Alternative ist DER WEG IST DAS ZIEL ... 112 Kashgar – Dunhuang – Golmud – mud zurück oder man fliegt nach können dann eine rund dreitägige Lhasa. Mit der neuen Eisenbahn Chengdu oder Xian. Wer den Land- Marathonzugsfahrt nach Kunming sind die rund 2.000 km von Kash- weg nimmt, kann über Xining nach machen, der Rest wird den Flieger gar nach Dunhuang relativ flott zu Xiahe zum schön gelegenen Lab- in die Hauptstadt Yunnans nehmen. zurückgelegt. Von Dunhuang geht rang Kloster fahren. Abenteuerlusti- Wer mehr Zeit hat, kann auf dem es dann per Bus durch die Halbwüs- ge schlagen sich von dort über die Yangtsekiang mit Schiffen bis Les- te nach Golmud und von dort wei- Seen des Naturreservats Jiuzhaigou han in Sichuan fahren. Zu bedenken ter über 5.000 m hohe Pässe nach Richtung Süden nach Chengdu ist jedoch, dass die rund eineinhalb- Lhasa. Die völlig überteuerte Bus- durch. Die Standardroute führt da- wöchige Fahrt bis auf die kurze fahrt ist zugleich auch die politisch gegen über Lanzhou nach Xian. Strecke durch die 3 Schluchten stabilste Route nach Tibet. Xian – Beijing – Shanghai ist oh- ziemlich uninteressant ist. Nach einer kleinen Rundreise nehin problemlos, wobei ich auch Von Kunming macht man eine durch das Dach der Welt kehrt man noch zusätzlich Suzhou und Hangz- kleine Rundreise durch das nördli- entweder per Bus wieder nach Gol- hou besuchen würde. Todesmutige che Yunnan nach Lijiang und Dali, 113 www.geocities.com/gerald_fimberger von wo es Richtung Süden nach Angriff, wobei ich auch in Guang- auf, was fast 6.000 km länger als bei Jinghong, der Hauptstadt von Xis- zhou und Macao stoppen würde. der zuerst beschriebenen Strecke ist. huangbanna geht. Von dort kann Insgesamt wird man für diese Stre- Klimatisch ist zu beachten, dass man sich entweder direkt mit Bus- cke rund vier Monate brauchen, man möglichst früh in Europa star- sen entlang der laotischen Grenze womit man zumindestens einmal tet, weil es Ende Oktober im nördli- Richtung Liuzhou und Yangshuo das Visum verlängern lassen muss. chen Yunnan schon kalt zu werden durchschlagen. Oder man fährt wie- Wer damit Probleme hat, kann auch beginnt. Die Einreise nach China der nach Kunming hinauf und ver- auf dem Weg von Hangzhou nach sollte zwischen Anfang Juli und An- sucht, einen Zug nach Liuzhou oder Kunming in Hongkong vorbei- fang August liegen, was eine Ab- Guilin zu bekommen. Wer doch schauen und dort ein neues Visum fahrt von zu Hause kurz nach Os- wieder auf Busse ausweichen muss, beantragen. tern bedeuten würde. sollte auf jedem Fall den Huanggu- Nachteil dieser Route ist, dass oshu Wasserfall in Guizhou besu- man sich teilweise ziemlich im Zick- chen. zack-Kurs durch das Reich der Mit- Von Yangshuo nimmt man dann te bewegt. So summieren sich die die letzte Etappe nach Hongkong in Entfernungen zu rund 17.000 km DER WEG IST DAS ZIEL ... 114 LONELY PLANET China hina isn't a country - it's a dif- and epic landscapes - background times to visit China. Daytime tem- Cferent world. From shop-till- scenery to the fall of dynasties, the peratures range from 20°C to 30°C you-drop metropolises to the epic rise of emperors and the turning of in these seasons, but nights can be grasslands of Inner Mongolia - with the revolutionary wheel. Unless you bitterly cold and it can be wet and deserts, sacred peaks, astounding have a couple of years and unlim- miserable. Major public holidays, in caves, and imperial ruins - it's a land ited patience, it's best to follow a particular Chinese New Year, are of cultural and geographic schisms. loose itinerary here, such as Beijing best avoided as it's difficult to get It's not that China has completely to Tibet via Xi'an's terracotta warri- around and/or find accommoda- done away with its Maoist past - it's ors, following the Silk Road route, tion. more that the yin of revolutionary sailing down the Yangzi River, or Facts for the Traveler zeal is being balanced by the yang of exploring the Dr Seuss landscape of Visas: Visas are required by all for- economic pragmatism, and the old- Guangxi Province. eigners entering mainland China guard communists are giving way to When to Go although, at this stage, visas are not the new wave entrepreneurs. Spring (March-April) and autumn required by Western nationals visit- It's a land of towering mountains (September-October) are the best ing Hong Kong and Macau. Travel- 115 www.geocities.com/gerald_fimberger Unterwegs ers in transit can stay in China visa- Wall, Yunnan Airlines and several train, which reaches into every free for up to 24 hours as long as others. There is no such thing as a province (apart from Tibet) along a they have an onward air ticket for a discount, no matter where you buy 52,000-km network. It's cheap, rela- flight from China to another desti- your ticket and you'll usually be tively fast and a safer proposition nation departing within that time slugged with an agents commission- than buses; the only dangers on the period. Visas are available from ing fee. There is an airport tax of trains is getting your luggage Chinese embassies and consulates in Y50 payable on all domestic flights. pinched or dying from shock at the most countries. Long-distance buses are one of state of the toilets. Getting Around the best means of getting around on As land transport improves, the Now that private carriers have been the ground; they're frequent and romantic days of domestic boat allowed to set up operations in cheap (which also translates as travel are fading. But there are still a China, CAAC has assumed the role crowded and stuffy) but there's ex- number of popular boat trips to be of `umbrella organisation' over air- tensive services, passable roads and had between Hong Kong and the lines including China Eastern, China interesting towns and villages en mainland.
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