ISSUE 7 • 3 Needle Notes
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Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: Magdamagda
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: magdamagda http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/multifunctional-blanket-stitch What better time for hand sewing revelations than now when my sewing machine is in service? sigh I have been thinking about this for some time – one type of hand stitch that comes in handy in so many situations! I’ll point out the ones I thought about, new ideas are welcome! Known as the “blanket stitch” it can back up your sewing machine in some situations or even go where no sewing machine has gone before!!!! First this is how it’s done: I prefer to stitch right to left. Bring the thread to front at desired distance from the edge ( about 2 mm for buttonholes, 4-5 mm for serging). Take the thread over the edge of the cloth and pull the needle back to front through the same point. Make a loop around this thread segment at the cloth edge level. At some distance from the first “entry point” (3-4 mm for serging) and at the same distance from the edge thrust the needle from front to back and pull the needle through the loop formed by the remaining thread. You can help yourself by keeping the thread over the index finger of the left hand while doing so. Repeat, repeat, repeat..:) Tip: If you are serging, make sure not to pull the thread too much and cause the fabric to pluck. If you’re working on a button hole or doing some embroidery work pull the thread just right so that the thread remains straight: not too loose, not too tight:) Tip-tip:) : If the thread gets twisted on itself , you can straighten it out by sliding the needle close to the fabric and running the thread through your fingers from the fixed end towards the loose end (a few times) Note: Whatever you plan to use this stitch for, you’ll find it ideal when dealing with curved lines! A video to catch the basic move: Step 1 — [serging] Multifunctional Blanket Stitch 1 Use it for: 1) Serging (overcasting the raw edges of a fabric to prevent unraveling).. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Jamie Updated Text
250cm (L) 140cm 110cm E 43cm J C A 8B D J B27.5cm 4B F B F K 6A 58cm 2B 34.5cm 5a. SLEEVE 7B 7.5 E Fold 59cm 36.5cm 3B 9. Strap 50cm G 97cm 11.5cm 91cm I 4A 23.5cm 13. COLLAR A H I 3A 43cm J 14. Strap D 75cm 8.5 13. COLLAR Fold 14. Strap J 3.5 6B FRONT RIGHT 36cm 10cm Fold 140cm 54cm 50cm (W) 7.5 cm G F 7.5 43cm D cm 34.5cm G 43.5cm 8A 34.5cm 5b. FRONT LEFT C SLEEVE 16. I D 7A 8.5 30cm F 22.5cm 2.5 C J B 8.5 K 69cm G H 9. Strap 7.5cm 2A J Fold J 35.5cm 43cm BUTTON C 1. MAIN BODICE 10. LONG BELT STRAP Fold 10cm 58cm 11. 70cm <---> BACK RIGHT G G 5.5cm A H 12. LAPELS K 15. K 20cm 91cm B BACK LEFT 12. LAPELS FACING I 27 A 23 G G 50cm 45cm 45cm 20cm Paper Pattern Same Edge Colour: Seam Join Fabric: Lyco Linen 50% TENCEL, 50% Organic Cotton Linen : Fold Scale 1:10 Width 140, Length 250 cm (100 inches) : Placing Paper Size: A4 : Dimensions : Bias tape Moth Trench Coat by Jamie Han JAMIE 21. Pin the ‘I’ straps to 1(MB) at point ‘I’ along the at edge, right sides touching. Sew at 1cm. Repeat for the other ‘I’ strap. 22. Sew 2 belt loops. using the remaining fabric at the side of the Long Belt Strap at pont I and I on MB. -
Overlocker / Serger Techniques
BERNINA eBook Series JUST OVERLOCK IT! Overlocker / Serger Techniques Written by: Jaime David, BERNINA Educator, Overlocker Specialist Securing Seams § Corners § Curves & Circles § Gathering Lettuce Edge § Blanket Stitch § Flatlock Weaving ©2019 BERNINA of America. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. Content subject to change. OVERLOCKER / SERGER TECHNIQUES Once there is a basic understanding of how the overlocker/serger operates, such as threading, basic stitch formations and creating a balanced stitch, it is time to start refining these sewing techniques and skills. This machine can be a real asset to a sewing studio, and in no time it will be easy to utilize the amazing features of an overlocker to benefit all different types of sewing projects. This eBook will cover practical techniques like securing stitches, sewing corners and curves, as well as some decorative techniques including gathering, lettuce edges, flatlock weaving and blanket stitch. BERNINA L 460 OVERLOCKER Page 2 of 12 OVERLOCKER / SERGER TECHNIQUES SECURING A STITCH: Most often an overlock stitch is sewn over or into another seam, which automatically secures the stitch. However, there are times that stitches do not begin or end within other seams or edge finishes, so knowing how to secure the seam is important. Method One (Machine) Beginning: • Chain off approximately 3-4” of thread tail before taking the first stitch into the fabric edge. (Figure 1) • With needles down, raise the presser foot and pull the thread tail in front of the needles and lay on top of the fabric. -
Features and Benefits
one-touch air-threading coverlock machine FEATURES AND BENEFITS One-Touch Electronic Air-Threading Loopers With the PFAFF® admire™ air 7000 one-touch air-threading feature, you can effortlessly thread the machine loopers with the simple push of a button. Color Touchscreen Select your stitch, and the optimal thread tensions, recommended stitch length, and more are set automatically. Exceptional Lighting Exceptional illumination of the sewing area for optimal visibility - 60% brighter than competition.* Free Arm The free arm provides easy access for smaller projects like cuffs, hems and children’s clothing. Knee Lift Hands-free presser foot lift for ease and control. PFAFF.com admire™ air 7000 Features and Benefits PFAFF.com 26 Stitches The 5/4/3/2 thread stitch capability provides 26 different stitch options for a wide range of stitch techniques. Coverstitch Triple coverstitch and double coverstitch narrow and wide for activewear, hems and decorative applications. Chainstitch Seam finishing and decorative edges. 5-Thread Safety Stitch (Wide and Narrow) A chainstitch and 3-thread overedge for durable, professional seams. 4-Thread Safety Stitch (Wide and Narrow) A chainstitch and 2-thread narrow or wide overedge for durable seams. 4-Thread Overlock Seams and seam finishing. 3-Thread Picot Edge 3-Thread Wrapped Overlock Delicate finish for edges on lightweight fabrics. (Wide and Narrow) Edge finish for lightweight fabrics. 3-Thread Overlock (Wide and Narrow) 2-Thread Overlock Seam finishing and decorative edges. (Wide and Narrow) Overcasting for single layer of fabric. 3-Thread Narrow Edge 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock Fine, narrow hems and edging. (Wide and Narrow) Edge finish for lightweight fabrics. -
Overlock Machines Coverlocktm 4
Comparison chart PFAFF® overlock machines coverlockTM 4 . 0 All necessary information for the selected stitch is n LCD Graphic touch screen shown. More information on the use of each stitch, right at n Extended Info system your fingertips. Multiple languages Choose and set your preferred language. n Large sewing space More space for coverstich projects. n n Extension table included Gives an extra large support for beautiful results. n n Threads Many options for utility and decorative sewing. 4, 3, 2 5, 4, 3, 2 5, 4, 3, 2 Trim, stitch, overcast and decorate projects in half Stitches the time. 15 23 25 Great for sewing elastic hems, perfect for finishing n n Coverstitches all kind of knitwear. Join fabric layers where a traditionally pressed open n n Chainstitch seam is required. Works well as a basting stitch. Combines two stitches for durable and reliable n n 5-thread overlock seams. Reinforced overlock stitch for perfect sewing, n n n 4-thread overlock trimming and finishing. Wide and narrow overlock seams and decorative n n n 3-thread overlock techniques. 2-thread overlock Rolled edge and flatlock, wide and narrow. n n n Sew rolled hems quickly without changing the n n n Built-in rolled edge presser foot or stitchplate. Automatically sets thread tension, n differential feed and stitch length Select the stitch and start to sew. All settings can be adjusted for special fabrics and n n n Adjustable settings techniques. Maximum illumination of the sewing area for optimal Light source visibility. 1 LED source 1 Light bulb 2 LED sources Save your personal settings for each stitch, n Memories uniquely naming them for instant recall. -
C:\Documents and Settings\Fred.Schottman\Aawp\Y07
Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (2007) Annotated for Statistical Reporting Purposes CHAPTER 99 TEMPORARY LEGISLATION; TEMPORARY MODIFICATIONS ESTABLISHED PURSUANT TO TRADE LEGISLATION; ADDITIONAL IMPORT RESTRICTIONS ESTABLISHED PURSUANT TO SECTION 22 OF THE AGRICULTURAL ADJUSTMENT ACT, AS AMENDED XXII 99-1 U.S. Notes 1. The provisions of this chapter relate to legislation and to executive and administrative actions pursuant to duly constituted authority, under which: (a) One or more of the provisions in chapters 1 through 98 are temporarily amended or modified; or (b) Additional duties or other import restrictions are imposed by, or pursuant to, collateral legislation. 2. Unless the context requires otherwise, the general notes and rules of interpretation, the section notes, and the notes in chapters 1 through 98 apply to the provisions of this chapter. Statistical Notes 1. For statistical reporting of merchandise provided for herein: (a) Unless more specific instructions appear in the subchapters of this chapter, report the 8-digit heading or subheading number (or 10-digit statistical reporting number, if any) found in this chapter in addition to the 10-digit statistical reporting number appearing in chapters 1 through 97 which would be applicable but for the provisions of this chapter; and (b) The quantities reported should be in the units provided in chapters 1 through 97. 2. For those headings and subheadings herein for which no rate of duty appears (i.e., those headings and subheadings for which an absolute quota is prescribed), report the 8-digit heading or subheading number herein followed by the appropriate 10-digit statistical reporting number from chapters 1 through 97. -
Sewing Tools Guide TUBE TURNERS These Handy Tools Help Turn Fabric Tubes Right Side Out
ERGONOMIC SEWING TOOLS HELPFUL SEWING TOOLS Hands that ache from arthritis or carpal tunnel syndrome due to repeated use of sewing tools demand Tools are designed to accomplish specific tasks. Use of the correct tool makes completing the project easier ergonomic engineering. Some of the most frequently used tools have a new ergonomic design and quicker. with soft-grip features that make them easier to hold and handle with comfort. BODKINS TRACING WHEELS Bodkins are used to guide trims, elastic and The proper way to use a tracing wheel is with the index finger cording through narrow casings and tubing. extended along the top edge of the handle. Both ergonomic tracing The Ball Point Bodkin looks like a long needle wheels are designed with gently curved handles that follow the with a rounded tip. It smoothly slides into natural form of the hand. Choose from either a serrated or a smooth casings. The shorter Ezy-Pull® Bodkin has special “teeth” that grip onto the end of elastic or ribbon so that rolling wheel. it does not get lost during the process of threading. SEAM RIPPERS THREADERS No matter the sewing skill level, from time to time A Drawstring Threader makes the task of replacing or all sewers reach for a seam ripper to practice the task adding a drawstring to hoods, activewear and bags of reverse sewing. The ergonomic seam rippers have quick and easy. It includes two loops that a conical shape with soft finger grips that provide a will fit most drawstrings, ribbons and elastic comfortable grip. The handles can be extended by cording. -
SPIN Sewing Curriculum.Pdf
Debra Proctor, USU Extension Associate Professor, FCS/4-H, Wasatch County Susan Haws, USU Extension Assistant Professor, FCS/4-H, Summit County Stacey Mac Arthur, USU Extension Assistant Professor, 4-H, State Office Description The Discover 4-H Clubs series guides new 4-H volunteer leaders through the process of starting a 4-H club or provides a guideline for seasoned volunteer leaders to try a new project area. Each guide outlines everything needed to organize a club and hold the first six club meetings related to a specific project area. Purpose The purpose is to create an environment for families to come together and participate in learning activities that can engage the whole family, while spending time together as a multi-family club. Members will experiment with new 4-H project areas. What is 4-H? 4-H is one of the largest youth development organizations in the United States. 4-H is found in almost every county across the nation and enjoys a partnership between the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), the state land-grant universities (e.g., Utah State University), and local county governments. 4-H is about youth and adults working together as partners in designing and implementing club and individual plans for activities and events. Positive youth development is the primary goal of 4-H. The project area serves as the vehicle for members to learn and master project-specific skills while developing basic life skills. All projects support the ultimate goal for the 4-H member to develop positive personal assets needed to live successfully in a diverse and changing world. -
Historical Painting Techniques, Materials, and Studio Practice
Historical Painting Techniques, Materials, and Studio Practice PUBLICATIONS COORDINATION: Dinah Berland EDITING & PRODUCTION COORDINATION: Corinne Lightweaver EDITORIAL CONSULTATION: Jo Hill COVER DESIGN: Jackie Gallagher-Lange PRODUCTION & PRINTING: Allen Press, Inc., Lawrence, Kansas SYMPOSIUM ORGANIZERS: Erma Hermens, Art History Institute of the University of Leiden Marja Peek, Central Research Laboratory for Objects of Art and Science, Amsterdam © 1995 by The J. Paul Getty Trust All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America ISBN 0-89236-322-3 The Getty Conservation Institute is committed to the preservation of cultural heritage worldwide. The Institute seeks to advance scientiRc knowledge and professional practice and to raise public awareness of conservation. Through research, training, documentation, exchange of information, and ReId projects, the Institute addresses issues related to the conservation of museum objects and archival collections, archaeological monuments and sites, and historic bUildings and cities. The Institute is an operating program of the J. Paul Getty Trust. COVER ILLUSTRATION Gherardo Cibo, "Colchico," folio 17r of Herbarium, ca. 1570. Courtesy of the British Library. FRONTISPIECE Detail from Jan Baptiste Collaert, Color Olivi, 1566-1628. After Johannes Stradanus. Courtesy of the Rijksmuseum-Stichting, Amsterdam. Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Historical painting techniques, materials, and studio practice : preprints of a symposium [held at] University of Leiden, the Netherlands, 26-29 June 1995/ edited by Arie Wallert, Erma Hermens, and Marja Peek. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 0-89236-322-3 (pbk.) 1. Painting-Techniques-Congresses. 2. Artists' materials- -Congresses. 3. Polychromy-Congresses. I. Wallert, Arie, 1950- II. Hermens, Erma, 1958- . III. Peek, Marja, 1961- ND1500.H57 1995 751' .09-dc20 95-9805 CIP Second printing 1996 iv Contents vii Foreword viii Preface 1 Leslie A. -
Dressmaking up to Date
PRICE, 25 CENTS or Is. PUBLISHED BY THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, Limited AT THE BUTTERICK BUILDING, NEW YORK PARIS LONDON NEW YORK TORONTO Copyright, /QOj, by The Butter ick Publishing Co., Limited. Entered at Stationers’ Hall. A ll rights reserved. ■r o: ; < A Dressmaking, TUp to Date h.-K'ARV,^ rorS^BiS1 f'flsi $cp»es jits,wiYW( { . > i SfcP Hi ; « Ooiwngns umt J-^/ o2 &. I c/C61 / a 1X733! COPY f;s> . 3 FRONTISPIECE —THE SEWING CIRCLE HAND-SEWING STITCHES IMPORTANT POINTS AND AIDS IN DRESSMAKING THE CORRECT METHOD OF ALTERING PATTERNS SHIRT-BLOUSES DRAPED WAISTS SKIRTS NOVEL, ARTISTIC SEAMS WEDDING AND EVENING GOWNS THE TAILOR-MADE GOWN COATS AND JACKETS PRACTICAL AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES BIAS BANDS AND FOLDS—TURNING CORNERS AN EMPIRE TEA-GOWN DESIRABLE GARMENTS FOR MATERNITY WEAR MAKING /ND FINISHING UNDERWEAR THE BATH-ROBE. CHILDREN’S CLOTHES BOYS’ SUITS XTlp to 5>ate inning (EirrU SDressmahtrtg, TUp to Date SIMPLE SEWING STITCE1ES AKING A KNOT.—Holding the threaded needle in the right hand, twist the end of the thread once and a half, around the forefinger of the left hand; press, roll downward on the ball of the thumb, twisting once or twice; slip off and draw down M with the middle finger of the left hand. BASTING.—There are two kinds of basting; even and uneven. In even basting the stitches; and spaces are the same length; in uneven basting, as its name implies, the stitches are so formed that they are not of equal length. EVEN BASTING STITCH.—Start with a knot in basting and always have it on the right side; it is more easily removed. -
Dress with Slanted Closure
Lekala 2063 Dress With Slanted Closure Dress With Slanted Closure - Sewing Pattern #2063 Recommendations on fabric: natural/mixed fabric suitable for dresses. You will also need: fusible interfacing; 5 buttons; 1 inner button. Seam allowances: seam allowance for hem of garment — 2.0 cm, other seams – 1.0 cm. Note on seam allowances: - If the pattern has double contour the seam allowances are included. They are 1 cm unless specified otherwise. - If the pattern has single contour, the seam allowances are NOT included and need to be added when laying out the pattern. Note on length of fabric: Attention! The amount of fabric needed for your pattern is not included. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. First, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 cm). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don't forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold. CUTTING: Note on cutting: On the pattern pieces, “beam” means straight of grain. Lay out your pieces accordingly. Some pieces will be cut on the fold. This is noted on the pattern piece. Mark all notches and other design features such as pleats etc. from the pattern onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up. Main fabric: 1. Center back – cut 2 2. Side back — cut 2 3. Side front — cut 2 4.