The Imolese Valleys the district of Imola 158 Santerno River - Photo by Comune di Borgo Tossignano Our itinerary enters Romagna, where a univer- Borgo Tossignano, there is probably the most se of flavours, accents and human warmth spectacular stretch of the whole valley, pas- opens up before us, this land being one of the sing through the largest Chalk Vein in Europe, most hospitable in Italy. today protected by a Regional Park. Apart from the Vein, cultivated land with The Rivers orchards and vineyards alternates with the Known to the Romans as the “Little Reno”, particular geometry of the gullies. Reaching the Santerno starts on the northern side of Imola, the Santerno enters the plains, where the Apennine ridge between Tuscany and its course has undergone numerous modifi- Romagna, near the Futa Pass. A few kilome- cations over time, connected to the final tres down the valley from Firenzuola, the stretch of the River Po since the 12th century. Santerno begins a dramatic course deep bet- Passing into the territory of Ravenna, the ween high banks of marl and sandstone. Santerno ends its 103-kilometre journey, Along the valley-bottom there is a lot of flowing into the ancient bed of the “Po di stone-working of “Pietra Serena”, the raw Primaro”, today the River Reno. material of the Tuscan Renaissance and of numerous buildings in the valley. The Upper Santerno Valley has many attractions, first of The Sillaro and Sellustra are the two main all those connected to the river itself, rich in tributaries of the Santerno: their beautiful lovely bights and small beaches. Just before valleys are the subject of two pleasant coun- Castel del Rio, the stunning waterfalls of tryside itineraries (page 199), setting off from Moraduccio plunge into the Santerno. Near Castel San Pietro Terme and Dozza. 159 History and Culture The Reno Valley The Gothic Line -Historical Regional Park of Monte Sole (page Between 1944 and 1945, the Bolognese 64), symbolic site of the Resistance, created on mountains were at the centre of the last the mounts which were theatre of the Nazi- battle front of the war in Italy, along a line Fascist massacre of Marzabotto; from the Tyrrhenian to the Adriatic Sea -Multimedial Model of the Gothic Line (page which took advantage of the natural defen- 78), innovative educational museum instru- sive aspect of the Apennines. This is the ment in Castel d’Aiano; Gothic Line, also known as the Linea Verde. -Monte Pero (page 65) and Monte Belvedere Already under Allied attack in September (page 79). In Monte Belvedere (1140 mts a.s.l.), 1944, the Gothic Line resisted at the near the ruins of a medieval castle, a monu- destruction of some points until the spring ment remembers the undertaking of the 10th of 1945, forcing the civilian population to Mountain Division, which carried the Ger- face a bitter winter of Allied bombings and man stronghold, supported by the Partisans, German reprisals. It has been calculated in February 1945. that the Germans lost about 75,000 men The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, while the Allies Savena and Setta about 65,000 on -“Winter Line” Museum in Livergnano (page 119); the Gothic Line. -South African Military Cemetery in Casti- Today, there are glione dei Pepoli (page 133); many places in -Passo della Futa: German Military Cemetery the Bolognese A- (page 124). pennines which The Imolese Valleys commemorate -Rocca di Tossignano (page 166); these events, a- -War Museum in Castel del Rio (page 170), mong which: -Monte Battaglia (in the picture). DOC Colli d’Imola Grapes - Photo by S.T.A.I. - Paolo Benini 160 To savour, understand, live and discover the blend of “tourist flavours” which spread throughout the hospitable territory of Imola, STAI was set up in 1996, a consortium with over 100 public and private members. S.T.A.I. Società Turismo Area Imolese Via Boccaccio, 27 40026 Imola (BO) Tel. 0542.25413 - Fax 0542.613252 [email protected] - www.stai.it Gastronomy and Wine Apennines, as well as other “Traditional” The “Imola Hills” Wine and Flavours produce, such as the apricots of the Route passes through unique, enchanting Santerno Valley, shepherd’s Pecorino and spots, in which history and natural beauty the famous “piadina” (flat bread) of are inextricably mixed. However, it is the Romagna, to mention only the most wealth of traditions and culture related to famous. The itinerary winds through the food and wine which seduce travellers, valleys of the Santerno, Sillaro and accompanying them on a journey to disco- Sellustra rivers, visiting the territories of ver its riches. The “bread-basket” of the Borgo Tossignano, Casalfiumanese, Castel Route contains quality wines, from the del Rio, Castel Guelfo, Castel San Pietro “DOC Colli d’Imola”, Sangiovese in particu- Terme, Dozza, Fontanelice, Imola, Medicina lar, to “Albana DOCG of Romagna” which and Ozzano dell’Emilia. accompany IGP (Protected Geographical Strada dei Vini e Sapori “Colli d’Imola” Indication) products, such as the nectarines Via Boccaccio, 27 - 40026 Imola (BO) and peaches of Romagna, the “marroni” Tel. 0542.25413 - Fax 0542.613252 (chestnuts) of Castel del Rio, the shallots of [email protected] Romagna, the white beef of the Central www.stradaviniesapori.it The bread-basket with typical products - Photo by S.T.A.I. - Guerrino Bertuzzi 161 The Imolese Valley the Apennines Casalfiumanese Borgo Tossignano Fontanelice Castel del Rio Tourist itinerary The first part of the itinerary sets out to discover the Santerno Valley. We will branch out from the SS 610 “Montanara” state road, which Not to be missed: follows the ancient pilgrims’ The bridge and castle of the Alidosi in Castel del Rio route for Florence and Rome, The chestnut woods and the “Marrone IGP going up the whole valley as far of Castel del Rio” as the Futa Pass. The Chalk Vein Regional Park of Romagna The waterfalls of Moraduccio The Santerno Valley The ficattola and piè fritta (two types of fried - Casalfiumanese bread, the former puffy, the latter flat) - Borgo Tossignano The “Luca Ghini” Trail - Fontanelice The Mengoni Archive Museum in Fontanelice - Castel del Rio The Wine and Flavours Route of the Hills of Imola 162 History and Nature the Gnoccata (gnocco fritto - fried savoury The territory of the Santerno Valley has been pastries) and in Fontanelice that of the Piè inhabited since time immemorial. In Roman fritta (a fried flat bread). Forest produce times, the hills were rich in small villages, triumphs in Castel del Rio in the Porcino and while in the Middle Ages there was Byzantine Marrone (a special chestnut) Festivals, while and Lombard occupation. Many of the nume- fruit, in particular the apricot, is celebrated in rous castles of the period have disappeared a festival in Casalfiumanese. Then there is or been transformed into churches and priva- meat: from tender, succulent “Castrato” te houses, while others are still there, domi- (mutton) to Beef of Romagna, which has nating the valley with their evocative ruins. In been awarded the designation “Indicazione the following periods, the valley’s territory Geografica Protetta” (IGP), an indication of belonged to various noble families such as genuine origins and quality. All of this accom- the Borgia, Bentivoglio, Visconti and Alidosi, panied by wines from Romagna and the who dominated vast tracts of the territories Imola Hills, celebrated in Fontanelice on the of Bologna and Romagna. From an environ- night of San Lorenzo. mental point of view, the landscape changes the further you move from the Via Emilia: the How to get there foothills of Imola are covered by vast vine- - State highway SS 610 “Montanara”, which yards and orchards, but only a few kilometres connects Imola and the Via Emilia from the city, the landscape changes noticea- to Tuscany. bly, with the start of the gypsum territory. - The A14 motorway, exits at Imola and Castel Here there is the particular morphology of San Pietro Terme. the “Chalk Vein of Romagna”, the result of rain - Railway, the Rimini-Ancona line, with water erosion on a thick stratification of grey- stations in Varignana, Castel San Pietro blue clay. The area is now protected in a Terme and Imola. Regional Park, which also extends into the - Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it, to all neighbouring hills of Faenza. To the south of the inhabitations of the valley. the Chalk vein, the hills become mountains and the Apennines take on their typical Events appearance, dominated by woods of Euro- Acqua di Terra - Terra di Luna pean oak - a species suitable for warm, dry cli- The theatre festival “Acqua di Terra - Terra mates - ash, English oak, birch and beech in di Luna” (Water of the land - Landscape of the higher reaches of the territory. But the the moon) follows a well-developed trail most notable forests are those of chestnut through the evocative scenery of the trees, also of interest for their productive Santerno Valley: from the vistas and squa- aspect: in these woods there are the “marro- res of the historical centres to more unu- ni di Castel del Rio”, a chestnut unique to sual locations with great natural charm in these latitudes, very large and sweet, which the valley, such as a river bank beach, a has conquered both national and internatio- rocky cliff or among the trees in a wood. nal markets. The initiative owes its success to the high cultural value of its events, the interaction Buon appetito between the promoters (The Local Talking about the Bolognese Apennines, we Councils of the Santerno Valley and the have often referred to the Tuscan influences Imola Town Council), the artistic directors on the cooking: here the mixture of gastro- and the enthusiastic public participation.