SATURDAY, JANUARY 9, 2021 TIMES EVOKE NEW DELHI ‘Life cycle analyses shows a -based is most nutritious with least environmental impacts’

ood is among humanity’s greatest joys. From savouring special Walter C Willett is professor of epidemiology and at Harvard University’s TH Chan School of Current Intakes vs Diet Fdelights to sharing food, how we eat Public Health and professor of medicine at Harvard Medical School. Co-chair of the well-known 0 100% 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 symbolises our deepest bonds. However, worryingly, the way we now consume EAT-Lancet Commission, the eminent scholar spoke to Srijana Mitra Das at Times Evoke about why food could soon consume us — the world’s food, once richly biodiverse, is adopting a plant-based diet is so important for our own health — and the sustainability of our planet: Starchy veg now heavily composed of processed iStock animal products. Global meat production Why does the EAT-Lancet study argue that the con- has quadrupled since 1961, with over 340 sumption of meat is deeply harmful for the planet? DEGRADING: Industrial animal Eggs A CRITICAL million tonnes produced annually. With the world’s population heading towards ten farming has damaged Earth’s Greenhouse Gases Land use 1,200 2 6 Demand and supply feed each other. Over billion by 2050, the current consumption of meat environment and our own health (g CO2-eq/serving) (m /serving) BALANCE half the world’s land is used for agricul- — and the global trends towards even higher intakes Poultry Most nations ture, of which 77% is used to rear ani- — means destroying forests for pas- either overshoot or mals — one-third of Earth’s arable land tures and increasing the industrial underperform 4 is used only to grow feed to feed livestock. production of to feed animals. 800 Dairy foods on the Planetary Oils Fish Pork Eggs Dairy Such industrially-produced food is This is leading to greater greenhouse

Red meat Red Health Diet. This Chicken

damaging us, causing heart disease, gas emissions, pollution from fertilis- has individual and diabetes, and cancers world- ers and species extinctions. Also, Fish global effects wide. Alongside, it is wrecking the ruminants emit methane, which is a 400 2 Earth — livestock-based agriculture potent greenhouse gas, further inten- Global causes 14.5% of greenhouse gas sifying . Thus, meat Vegetables East Asia Pacific emissions, driving climate change. products have the worst environmental impacts. South Asia Animal-based food production demands We have found that the direct consumption of 0 0 0% Sub-Saharan Africa Fruits Latin America & Caribbean deforestation — 70% of the amazingly wholegrains, , nuts, seeds and fruits and Data courtesy: Walter Willett, EAT--Lancet Report (2019) biodiverse Amazon rainforest has been vegetables are nutritionally the most efficient and Middle East & North Africa destroyed to house animal ranches and these have the least environmental impacts. We IN BETTER TASTE: With less land and lower emissions, produce farming has smaller environmental impacts Europe & Central Asia grow livestock feed — while chemical have learned this from ‘life cycle analyses’ which Whole grains North America fertilisers are damaging water and soil. account for all the inputs and outputs in the produc- of their diets — this is strongly correlated with As the Earth is degraded, it will lose its tion of specific foods. Every individual must now sustainability because these diets are more plant- ability to produce the crops needed to make food choices that support their own health, based. The countries around the Mediterranean are based options. Today, people can also incorporate feed us. Our unthinking consumption their family’s health and that of our planet. We have among the best, especially Turkey and Israel, while healthy foods from around the world in their diets is over-sating us now — and leading to strong evidence that this can be achieved by countries in Southeast Asia, including Vietnam and — soy foods, for example, weren’t traditionally a part a future of deprivation. adopting largely plant-based diets, which draw Japan, also ranked high. of the Indian diet, but many soy-based dishes from Clearly, what harms nature harms us, on food traditions from around the world that That said, all countries have much room for im- across Asia provide flavourful and healthy options. and scientists have thus formulated the developed over thousands of years. provement as the best ranked about 65 on a scale — an endeavour of 100 — India scored about 50, its positive aspects What are your recommendations for developed which unites the well-being of the world How does adopting a plant-based diet help to Whole grainsStarchy veg provided by traditional wholegrains and legumes nations like the US, whose dietary preferences have and an individual’s health in something feed a growing global population? Dairy foods and relatively low amounts of red meat. impacted the global environment? Animal protein as simple as our daily bread. The diet It is much more efficient to eat plants directly Plant-sourced The US should be decreasing the consumption only requires lowering animal-based rather than feed them to animals and then eat With rising affluence though, both India and of red meat, refined starches, sugar, potatoes proteins consumption and increasing plant-based the animals. In our analyses, we found that for Unsaturated China are seeing significant dietary shifts. What and salt, and increasing the intakes of fruits, dietary options. A large-scale shift to this the global community, we could sustainably pro- plant oils are the implications of this? vegetables, wholegrains, legumes, nuts and fish. would mean vast tracts worldwide reduc- duce about two servings of animal-sourced foods Certainly, in many parts of India, healthy and Again, people with higher education and incomes ing emissions and toxins. Importantly, per day, one being dairy and the other being a flex- sustainable traditional diets are being displaced by are improving their diets — but those with lower such a diet could lead to twelve million ible combination of red meat (about once per week), more meat and refined starches and sugar. These incomes and education are not being able to do premature losses of life averted annu- poultry and fish (twice per week) and eggs. are part of heavily promoted industrial diets which this. Overall, rates of obesity, diabetes, cardio- ally — the difference that would make to If the amount of dairy or meat were to be have adverse effects on individual and planetary vascular disease and obesity-related cancers are us and our families is immeasurable. The increased much beyond these numbers, this would health. China’s red meat intake has now caught up going up — and life expectancy is going down. planetary health diet is a compelling simply not be environmentally sustainable — and with consumption levels in the US. Alongside envi- idea, and as two-thirds of Americans the ecological degradation involved would then ronmental impacts, such changes are fueling epi- Given the importance of a plant-based diet, should reduce their meat consumption now, one threaten global food production. PERFECTLY SERVED: The Planetary Health Diet demics of obesity and diabetes. We need to reverse governments intervene to popularise this? whose time has come. As Times Evoke’s recommends far more fresh and natural foods these trends for health and sustainability reasons. Worldwide, government policies, such as global experts emphasise, multiple Is a plant-based diet nutritionally adequate? China has officially adopted a policy to reduce subsidies, taxes, research and infrastructure partners, from the media to education- Almost all the nutrients in meat can be obtained cular disease — replacing red meat with plant the consumption of red meat as this can reverse the support, play a major role in determining the ists, governments to food industries, by nutrient-rich plants. An exception is protein reduces bad cholesterol. In long-term progress made in health and economics. Also, it isn’t foods we eat — unfortunately, these policies often can help this transition — but the change B-12 — if someone eats little or no meat studies, this predicts lower rates of heart disease. inevitable that red meat consumption must increase support diets that are neither healthy, nor starts with you. Join Times Evoke on a or dairy foods, taking a supplement is essential. with income — we see it declining in more educated sustainable. Each country should ensure the fascinating journey of food, whereby we Importantly though, meat, especially red meat, Which countries perform well in terms of a healthy groups in the US now as people learn about the production and consumption of healthy and can all turn over a vibrant new leaf. comes with saturated , cholesterol and other and ? And where does India stand? benefits of plant-based diets. Almost all the recent sustainable diets for everyone — this is a matter constituents that increase the risk of cardiovas- We’ve ranked countries by the healthfulness growth in the food retail sector has been in plant- of justice and our collective future.

The meat and dairy industry Agriculture causes 30% of greenhouse One and a half acres of 85% endangered wildlife species face Industrial agriculture drives 80% global deforestation. By use one-third of Earth’s freshwater gas emissions — livestock equals 14.5%. A land can produce 375 pounds habitat loss due to land turned to cash crops cutting down meat and dairy consumption, global farmland use — reducing the consumption of plant-based diet could reduce an individual’s of meat or 37,000 pounds of or cattle feed — from elephants to bees, one could be reduced by 75% — that’s equal to the US, China, EU and animal products by half would carbon footprint by 70% — if every American plant food — a meat eater thus million species now face such extinction Australia combined — and still feed the world. Currently, meat and lessen an American’s average consumed one serving of chicken less per needs 18 times the amount of dairy use 83% farmland, produce 60% agricultural greenhouse dietary requirement of water, week, CO2 emissions saved would equal land compared to someone gas emissions — and provide only 18% calories globally 5,000 litres daily, by 37% removing 5,00,000 cars from the roads following a plant-based diet Research: National Geographic, The Guardian, Science, Yale Global Forest Atlas, BBC, WWF, UN Environment ‘Food needs rethinking — our planetary ‘Indian diets were both scientific and boundaries are at breaking point’ sustainable — these must be saved’ Marco Springmann is senior researcher of public health and sustainability at Oxford University. Sunita Narain is an environmentalist and director general of the Centre for Science A leading expert on non-communicable disease prevention, Springmann shares his insights and Environment (CSE). Sharing her perspective with Times Evoke, the renowned with Times Evoke on the breaking point industrial food systems have created, what the ecologist discusses the role food once played in indigenous Indian culture, the impact of planetary health diet offers the world — and how India currently eats: food commodification — and why we must reclaim the food science we always knew: e now know that our food oil, etc. It is unlikely that they will be able to peaking of the best diets, we such indigenous knowledge now system is at breaking point WATCH WHAT YOU EAT evolve from this without some encourage- must first distinguish between because of the signals we get from the — many of our planetary Certain foods lead to ill-health. These ment. We therefore need better regulation the earlier food consumption outside world, which teaches you that boundaries are at risk of by policy makers. Certain foods are making habits of India and the way food must be packaged, it must look W need to be scrutinised by regulators S Indigenous Indian foods are being exceeded due to current food produc- us and the planet sick — these need to be these have changed now. We should good (even though it may not be good and consumers far more carefully tion models. According to our projections, more expensive and less available now. And actually celebrate how our food con- for you) and it must be addictive. based on a mix of dietary science, the pressure on Earth placed by the food 100 Unprocessed the needs to be supported to sumption habits used to be — India’s Food has also come to mean over- locally grown crops and philosophy red meat system could increase by upto 90% within 50 meet targets for health and sustainability. dietary patterns have shown that indulgence — the now — ancient texts believed that a few decades, exceeding all planetary Processed We should also think of food very differ- food was very connected to the local produces unbelievable amounts and food formed the basic part of a boundaries for climate change, involving 20 Fish red meat ently now. Simply observing the Covid-19 . It was ecologically diverse does so using massive numbers of cosmic moral cycle. The four Vedas Chicken Dairy water use, land use and 10 pandemic highlights the importance of — every part of India celebrated its chemicals and destroying vast forests. describe diverse grains — the Rig biochemical use through diets. Data shows how the virus has more through its food culture. Further, people are now eating so much Veda discusses barley while others 5 Legumes Nuts sharply impacted those with pre-existing meat, this is seriously damaging their nitrogen and phospho- Olive oil Eggs The traditional Indian food habit was outline lentils and millets. The

rus related to fertiliser Relative Averaged 2 Whole grains conditions, many of these being linked to possibly the most biodiverse diet of health. Both our bodies and our everyday khichdi, made of rice and

Environmental Impact Environmental Refined grains application. This is a Potatoes unhealthy and unsustainable diets. It also the world. Of course, other diets were environment need us to return to lentils, is mentioned in these canons 1 Fruits grim scenario but it is Vegetables SSBs shows how much we are disrupting ecosys- similar before they were turned into indigenous diets and plant-based choic- logical, considering that tems — if we keep animals unused to each monoculture diets where everyone es — these are much healthier for us. Food science developed the is cur- 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 other or humans in close contact, such eats rice, wheat and a hamburger. But And these will empower us to feed more voluminously in India — according rently responsible for Relative Risk of Mortality illnesses will only grow. The way we think Indian diets were truly remarkable in people from a less degraded Earth. to ayurveda, food drives our one-third of all greenhouse gas emissions. Data courtesy: M Springmann of ‘food’ itself needs major rethinking now. how they optimised biodiversity Such a dietary change should not physical, temperamental and A major driver of climate change, it uses The situation in India is slightly differ- and local ecologies. Individual health, be an elite fad or a momentary trend. mental states — therefore, a stable three-quarters of the world’s freshwater, tritional adequacy, health and environmen- ent — as many Indians are still vegetarian, local foods and seasonal factors all iStock and is essential. Foods over 40% of the Earth’s land surface tal impacts — they reduce many nutrient it is actually one of the few countries in came together in our diet. This was were classifi ed as ‘satvika’ or (which is thereby lost to multiple plant and shortfalls and provide greater risk reduction the world where diet stays within planetary intuitive in terms of what works for vegetables, milk, fruits and honey animal species), causes deforestation and for dietary-related mortality. They also stay boundaries. If everyone ate like an Indian, you because of the environment in for the wise and calm, ‘tamasika’ or damage through chemical fertilisers. within environmental limits. Therefore, iStock which you live. And it was intuitive provoking, intense foods like meat, Such industrial food is very poor for in- the planetary health diet increases about your local ecology and the garlic and overly spiced dishes and dividual health as well. Chronic diet-related human longevity with better health — and plants and foods grown around you. ‘rajsika’, like oils and , endowing diseases, like heart ailments, strokes, diabe- planetary longevity with sustainability. The indigenous Indian diet under- people with energy for daily needs tes and certain cancers, are caused by the However, I’m often asked why, despite all stood that food, built into our day-to- increased consumption of red and processed the information being available to them, day lives, is one of the most powerful Indigenous Indian diets meats. Such unhealthy diets have now well-placed individuals don’t make better forms of medicine we have. But these emphasised fresh fruits (using become one of the biggest causes of prema- dietary choices. The answer lies in the pub- systems of belief and practice were even their fl owers and stems), ture mortality the world over. The planetary lic health term ‘food environment’ — what disrupted by the force of the market. nutritive vegetables and herbs like health diet has therefore been formulated to we eat is what we’re exposed to, what our From being medicine which strength- BEING WHOLESOME: Emphasising the bitter gourd, spinach, curry meet twin challenges — environmentally friends eat, what’s available easily in our ened us, food has become a marketable wholegrains, indigenous Indian diets leaves and caulifl ower, wholegrains unsustainable food systems and unhealthy markets, what’s affordable. All those choices commodity now. What you eat at home were extremely healthy like amaranth, buckwheat and diets. Its broad recommendations are simple make up the food environment. At the mo- or learn from your local is maize, spices like turmeric and — we shouldn’t have red meat more than ment, in many countries, this environment changing because you’re now design- Instead, our indigenous dietary cumin, jackfruit and mustard seeds once a week, or fish and poultry more than encourages the consumption of unhealthy THE SIMPLEST SUPERHEROES: Fresh fruits and ing your diet based on aspiration, on cultures — emphasising local and sea- and regionally diverse nuts from twice a week. We can have one serving of and unsustainable foods. If you go out for a vegetables boost our health and save the what others eat, on what is supposed sonal foods, diets high in vegetables almonds and cashews to coconuts dairy per day and plenty of fruits, vegetables , you’re frequently surrounded by planet — India needs much more of these to be modern and what is easily avail- and fruits, wholegrains and legumes, and wholegrains daily. And we should options which are mostly meat-based or able — this transmutation is happening with antioxidants, probiotics, Research: ScienceDirect, Washington Post, Smithsonian certainly eat a handful of nuts each day. highly processed foods. The fact is, the food we wouldn’t be in such trouble. However, because of the power of markets, food etc. — should be accessed by everyone These recommendations suit everyone, industry doesn’t yet have health or environ- the healthiness of diets in India can also companies and food commodification. on a daily basis. We need to bring food information out properly, so people from low-meat flexitarians to those on mental impacts as its guiding principles. So be improved. In our surveys, we found that Once, many of us were taught about biodiversity out of the wild onto our know what they’re eating. Consumers vegetarian, vegan and pescatarian diets. The far, it’s worked for the industry to make foods and consumption is much hot foods, cold foods or foods you plates and empower farmers to grow have the right to know — and we recommendations perform very well on nu- which are fairly addictive in terms of sugar, too low in India. These are extremely should eat seasonally. Now, of course, biodiverse foods. shouldn’t be discouraged by strategies healthy and have very low environmental there is nothing called a season It is important to see food through like really small-point food labelling impacts. But, on average, India eats about because you can get the same food three lenses — moderation, livelihoods with no information that is of use to us. BECAUSE 50% too little of fruits and vegetables. across the whole year. But there was a for food growers and benefits for the Such a change in food conscious- WE ARE We also found too much consumption of scientific reason to eat something in a environment. We need a tremendous ness won’t come a moment too soon. white bread and white rice. Switching to particular season — this was for the change in consciousness for this and I’m very concerned about the rise in WORTH IT brown rice and wholegrain bread would goodness that food gave you at that time the media can play a leading role here. India of and foods high in Projections show regulation be a great improvement because the bran of year. You don’t eat dry fruits in Schools are also very important because salt, sugar and fat now. India has of unhealthy foods can save fibre in these is very helpful in terms of summer, for instance. These are tradi- nutritional education can have a huge developed a huge problem with millions of lives worldwide reducing chronic diseases. And, of course, tionally eaten in winter because of the impact. And we need governments to obesity and food is a major cause of the availability of enough food — an issue warmth they give you in colder months. step in as regulators and tighten rules this. Where our food was once medi- Change in attributable losses (%) which still troubles India, with one of the This science of food, interwoven on really bad foods. Alongside, the food cine, it’s turning into poison now. We 0 26 Data courtesy: M Springmann biggest incidences of underweight people into the art of the diet, is something we industry should also be far more trans- should stop such consumption before — must also be addressed. grew up with. But we’re discounting parent — it should, for instance, put this turns all-consuming.