Krakow as a tourist centre is usually associated with im- National Museum portant historic monuments, connected with the his- in Krakow tory of the city and Poland. Wawel, the Barbican and St. Florian’s Gate, the Main Market Square with St.Mary’s Main Building Church and the Cloth Hall, as well as Collegium Maius al. 3 Maja 1 of the Jagiellonian University, are the main tourist at- tractions. Opening hours Krakow also features numerous museums with rich, often Tuesday – Saturday: 10.00 a.m.–6.00 p.m. little-known collections. Tourists, both those who have Sunday: 10.00 a.m.–4.00 p.m. Monday: closed already visited Krakow before and those who haven’t, Free admission to permanent exhibitions are also invited to get to know the museum collections.
KRAKOW MUSEUMS’ ROUTES on Sundays. the art of Young Poland, stained glass stained Poland, Young of art the Many collections may suit the tastes of visitors with spe- www.muzeum.krakow.pl cial interests, be attractive to hobbyists or people inter- ested in the history of a particular age. The Main Building was built with pauses in 1934–1989, In the present publication we would like to invite you to vis- according to the project of Czesław Boratyński, Edward it the museums whose collections present the colourful Kreisler and Bolesław Schmidt. It houses three perma- th age of fin de siècle rooted in Krakow history, the Young nent exhibitions of the Museum. The 20 Century Polish Art Gallery is the largest exposition of its kind in Poland, Poland period art of Wyspiański and Mehoffer, the ar- where one can get to know the chosen trends of Polish chitecture of Stryjeński and Mączyński, and the history art of the last and the current cen- of cabaret in “Jama Michalika”. tury, from Young Poland to the present times. The Gallery of Craftsman- ship is the greatest permanent exhibi- tion of its kind in Poland. The collec- tion presented here the art of Young Poland, stained glass shows the richness of Polish and Western-Eu-
National Museum in Krakow ropean craftsmanship, from the early Middle Ages to the Main Building 3 times of the Secession. It is The Wyspiański Museum supplemented by an impres- in the Szołayski House 7 sive collection of Judaica. The Mehoffer House 10 The Arms and Colours in Stained Glass Museum Poland Gallery presents (S.G. Żeleński Krakow Stained Glass Workshop) 12 some of the greatest and The Seweryn Udziela Museum of most precious of Polish col- Ethnography in Krakow 18 lections of militaria items, Stary Theatre Museum 21 from the Middle Ages to the Second World War.
2 3 The 20th Century Polish Art Gallery comprises one of the most spectacular collections of Young Poland art. On display are the works of the most prominent artists of that period, who shaped the specific, decadent mood of Krakow at the turn of 19th and 20th century. The unsettling paintings by Witold Wo- jtkiewicz, Wojciech Weiss and Władysław Podkowiński leave a lasting impact and cannot easily be forgotten. The nearly miniature landscapes by Jan Stanisławski reflect his nostalgia for Ukraine. Worth seeing are the works of such masters as Jacek Malczewski and Leon Wyczółkowski. Extremely interest- ing are the designs of stained glass windows for Wawel Ca- One can get to know the art of stained glass also in the thedral by Stanisław Wyspiański. Another example of stained Gallery of Craftsmanship. There is an outstanding set glass window making technique is Józef Mehoffer’s project of them from the Dominican church of św. Trójca (Holy intended for the cathedral in Freiberg in Switzerland. Next to it Trinity) in Krakow, from the 13th–15th century. Preserved is the stained glass window Vita Somnium Breve (Life is a Short in its original form, it astonishes with the richness and Dream), made according to the design of the same artist. depth of colours.
4 5 P art 6 Josef Szczepkowski. Jan by characters naked of part Polish life glass cinatingly made art of the of the the of and Hoffmann the in collections Secession a world Gallery the coffee Secession porcelain masterfully best from of set (1910). period Polish are Craftsmanship designed items 100 period. the crafted. and years A is works as symbol the The European well by Twining, ago. vase of an common, is as glass of architect devoted Among with of the workshops furniture, lithe by a Polish Emil everyday entirely procession the lines from Galle, rarities ceramics of bring Vienna, are to silver, items and fas the to of in - T
he the art of Young Poland, stained glass ond nected exhibitions. others has isting his the In family, and and
museum KRAKOW MUSEUMS’ ROUTES
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11 Szczepańska St. St. 11Szczepańska www.muzeum.krakow.pl on Sundays. exhibitions to admission Free permanent closed Monday: 10.00 only): exhibitions Tuesday (temporary hours Opening in the Szołayski House The Wyspiański Museum N Sunday: 10.00Sunday: Wednesday – Saturday: 10.00– Wednesday Saturday:
renovation
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rakow Museum,
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also know as “Manggha”. It recreates the mood of his flat in Krakow, and reminds visitors of the numerous friendships of this extraor- dinary collector and sup- porter of the museum with the prominent artists of the Young Poland period.
In the Stanisław Wyspiański Museum we get to know the world of the Young Po- land period, and the works of one of the most promi- nent of Polish artists of the turn of the 19th and 20th some of the most beautiful stained glass windows of the century. His versatile activ- Young Poland period – Apollo, a decoration of the Medi- ity connected with almost cal House Society, and God the Father from a Franciscan every branch of arts helps church in Krakow. Also on display are the self-portraits of us to get to know the best Wyspiański and the portraits of his friends and children, examples of the Young Po- which are representative of Secession painting in Poland. land period paintings, stained glass designs, stage and One of the museum rooms, called the “Sapphire work- theatre costume design, and also the furnishing of bour- shop”, is devoted to the private life of the artist and the geois houses in the Secession period. We can see the subject of motherhood. Furniture, sculptures, tapestries original, legendary pieces of furniture made at the re- and trinkets once belonging to this great collector, give quest of Tadeusz Boy Żeleński and his wife Zofia for their a good impression of how bourgeois Secession residential flat in Krakow. Commanding attention are the designs of interiors looked.
8 9 T T T he he he
10 the art of Young Poland, stained glass works cording National Józef – public. the to opened was himself, seum are idea. craftsmanship. cession as museum whole inside bought KRAKOW MUSEUMS’ ROUTES once filled The Mehoffer of of to before, of is i.e. the with Museum art, unit and is the completed the located stained artist, and is the will furnished house, – and a one museum same craftsmanship. in of is in which www.muzeum.krakow.pl on Sundays. exhibitions to admission Free permanent closed Monday: Sunday: 10.00Sunday: Tuesday 10.00– Saturday: hours Opening St. Krupnicza 26 The Mehoffer House N glass, the Krakow, furnished of at with a which old house i the ona with artist’s are of the furniture oil l M l top is interiors, stylish where at excellent paintings
works a.m.–4.00 useum now according family, artists Krupnicza In 1986 and a pieces in i of n biographical
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examples January a.m.–6.00 Józef common and rakow the to Young Street, of given his house, the drawings. Mehoffer furniture,
p.m. original 1996 Poland rooms to of which items
mu the Se ac it - - - Krakow) and Cathedral). Wawel Niepołomice), the Among somnium Hope, A beautiful landscapes designs Love); the and breve; most garden Flowers – a and Nature portrait Wisła Caritas; treasured Czerwona by (polychrome and pod the of Wiara, Art stained his house Niepołomicami parasolka (for wife Nadzieja, motif glass adds the – the of Palace (Red pieces to the Miłość “Florentine”; the (Vistula Treasury Umbrella); of are: charm. (Faith, Art Vita 11 at at in T I n he
12 the art of Young Poland, stained glass located observed. Glass glass items stained and character. original artist and ised the
most KRAKOW MUSEUMS’ ROUTES only Stanisław the in is, Workshop of with important a was glass, the equipment apart stained “live The the permanent built Gabriel tenement museum” unchanged from workshop. glass in specifically thing 1906 of the www.muzeumwitrazu.pl +48 phone 501mobile 23 31 27 +48 12 422 Phone/fax 86 19; only by Open arrangement hours Opening 23 Krasińskiego al. Stained Glass Workshop) (S.G. Krakow Żeleński Stained Glass Museum Żeleński’s museum the in exhibition, in design convention, according the for which The workshop for process hundreds in ability design. itself, the the Poland, the to needs museum and have the of to process Ludwik The of creating cooperate all apart contact of retained years, tour
the the is Wojtyczka of presently from is interiors Stained making stained can organ of their with the the be -
T he process. of the step every nearly overseeing but enterprise completion Stanisław new the of even intended tween one than more on Frycz, and Bukowski Mehoffer, Wyspiański, initial vision. is house workshop, Krakow created a craftsmen also occasion workshop ones if design his the it The to means by Wyspiański, workshop . artist Workshop is intended which . of train the most . necessary during stressed his Stanisław and when and designer, the projects, craftsmen, not renowned with the exchange on not the was he the only who to the craftsman the Gabriel course decided only but importance spent successfully designed helps with workshop outskirts designers also Polish of to Żeleński of a utmost half to produce in lot allows in creation achieving build as a of designers, of the of in properly realise and a time the shared cooperation care which him glass large, a stained stained of city tenement in to worked the the the this pieces equipped the this in complex alter such artist’s piece, place, effect 1906. glass, piece glass view be the for on 13 to as - creators, by showing them the potential of this technique. Huge commercial and artistic successes allowed for the rapid and brilliant development of the workshop, which for many years fulfilled an important, culture-forming role, receiving awards for the highest quality at local and international expositions. The most prominent Polish art- ists of the early 20th century cooperated with the work- shop. It was here that the greatest of the Polish stained glass pieces were created.
“The pride of the workshop is the collection of works by Wyspiański, made here (Medical House Society, Francis- cans’ Church in Krakow, famous blessed Salomea) and the works of Mehoffer, who publicly thanked the work- shop for the artistic recreation of his project for Wawel Cathedral. a whole range of great stained glass windows designed by master Mehoffer for Wawel Cathedral shall be made at Mr Żeleński’s workshop.”
Besides art, the idea of reviving this craftsmanship had its supporters, particularly among artists, who had al- ready raised some crafts into the rank of arts. The best example of a certain integration of arts was Wyspiański, a poet and painter, creator of wonderful stained glass windows and moving dramas, architectonic visions and stage designs, but also of furniture, tapestries, wrought ciety for Polish Applied Art”, which propagated its ideas iron decorations, whole interiors, polychromes and book in its own periodical, “Applied Art”, launched its activity. illustrations. An ever-growing circle of artists, university It consisted of painters, sculptors, architects, ethnogra- graduates, was interested in applied art. In 1901 the “So- phers and art historians, as well as admirers and patrons
14 15 of craftsmanship. What they all had in common was In 2002, the 100th anniversary of the workshop’s estab- a certain style, deriving from folk art. Therefore, next to lishment, a Stained Glass Gallery was established in the obvious influence of the art of the Secession, some its premises. Based on that gallery, in 2005 Ostrowski concepts were born in Krakow that became an important established a Stained Glass Museum with the charter contribution to its output. Also there appeared some negotiated with the Minister of Culture. The museum, characteristic elements that differentiate Krakow stained established in a tenement built in 1906, comprises exhi- glass form general trends. From this perspective, the es- bition rooms and an operating workshop, giving a life- tablishment and rapid development of the S.G. Żeleński like impression. Krakow Stained Glass Workshop should be regarded as a very characteristic phenomenon of that age. An artis- In 2000–2008 many prestigious pieces, and preservation tic workshop integrated with a craftsmanship workshop works, were created in the workshop, confirming the – everything according to the expectations of ideologists highest quality and the return to the best traditions of of applied art. the oldest Polish stained glass workshop. The most in- teresting items include: a set of stained glass windows n 2002 Piotr Ostrowski became the owner and the host I in the lifts of the office buildings Herbewo in Krakow, of the workshop. Thanks to his efforts, after forty-eight stained glass in a church in Dobczyce-Kornatka, adapta- years of pause, the workshop regained its original name tions of Józef Mehoffer designs, and the making of eight S.G. Żeleński Krakow Stained Glass Workshop. In No- stained glass windows for a church in Turek. However, vember 1999 the inheritors of the Żeleński family legacy the most demanding and prestigious was the finalisation unanimously agreed on returning to the old logo and of the project for Wawel Cathedral, which was a com- name. Their consent was on the condition “that the bined effort of Ostrowski and Andrzej Wajda in 2002– business entity to be established, active in the sphere of 2007, and was based on previously unrealised Stanisław stained glass making, will ensure high professional and Wyspiański designs. These stained glass windows are artistic level of the output, in order to sustain the tradi- presented in the Expositional–Informational Pavilion tion of the renowned S.G. Żeleński Krakow Stained Glass “Wyspiański 2000” in Krakow. Workshop, and that the business entity shall, apart from production and preservation activity, organise exhibi- tions of the workshop’s output.”
16 17 T T he he
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21 of in - - are a part of the history of this stage, and due to the rank City Information Network of the created art, the history of the Polish theatre in its entirety. Connected with the Secession culture of Krakow (note that the opening hours of inquiry desks might be changed) are first of all the items left after the staging of Stanisław Town Hall Tower at the Main Market Square (Rynek Główny 1) tel. +48 12 433 73 10, open daily: V-IX – 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; X-IV – 9.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m. Wyspiański’s plays, in the form of photographs, stage Wyspiański Pavillion designs, costumes, video records (“Wyzwolenie” (“Lib- (adjusted for disabled persons) eration”) by Konrad Świniarski, “Wesele” (“Wedding”) by 2 Wszystkich Świętych Square Andrzej Wajda and Jerzy Grzegorzewski), and the staging tel. +48 12 616 18 86, open daily: V-IX – 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; X-IV – 9.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m. 2 św. Jana St. of “Z biegiem lat, z biegiem dni” (“As Years Go By, As Days tel. +48 12 421 77 87, open daily: 9.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. Go By”) by Andrzej Wajda — a picture of city life. 25 Szpitalna St. tel. +48 12 432 01 10, open daily: V-IX – 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; X-IV – 9.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m. 7 Józefa St. (Kazimierz) tel. +48 12 422 04 71, open daily: 10.00 a.m.–5.00 p.m. os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta) tel. +48 12 643 03 03, open: Tue–Sat 10.00 a.m. – 2.00 p.m. John Paul II International Airport in Krakow-Balice (passenger terminal) tel. +48 12 285 53 41, open daily: V-IX – 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; X-IV – 9.30 a.m.-5.30 p.m. Tourist Information Call Centre tel. +48 12 432 00 60, open daily: 9.00 a.m.–7.00 p.m. Common e-mail address of the city inquiry desks: [email protected] Information for disabled tourists: www.niepelnosprawni.pl/ledge/x/2782 (pol) Emergency numbers Safety phone for foreign tourists (during the summer season only): 0 800 200 300 (free of charge, from a fixed-line telephone) +48 608 599 999 (from any telephone) Emergency service 112 Police 997 Ambulance service 999 Fire Brigade 998 City Guard 986 Roadside Assistance 981
Krakow Tourist Card
Free of charge: • Museums • City Public Transport (MPK) Discounts: • Tours around the city • Restaurants • Shops, Galleries Outlets – Tourist Information Centres: • 2 św. Jana St. • 25 Szpitalna St. • 7 Józefa St. Main Market Square 1 (Town Hall Tower) • Balice – Airport Card Publisher: Symposium Cracoviense Tel.: +48 12 422 76 00, 12 431 05 97, fax: +48 12 421 38 57 e-mail: [email protected], www.krakowcard.com
Illustrations are taken from museums’ archives. 22 Editing: J. Lenczowski. Graphic design: P. Bytnar. 23