Pulses�

A JOURNEY THROUGH ALL REGIONS OF THE PLANET BRAZIL • CHINA • INDIA • MEXICO • MOROCCO • PAKISTAN • SPAIN • TANZANIA • TURKEY • USA AND RECIPES FROM SOME OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS CHEFS IN THE WORLD

The designations employed and the presentation of material in this information product do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) concerning the legal or development status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. The mention of specific companies or products of manufacturers, whether or not these have been patented, does not imply that these have been endorsed or recommended by FAO in preference to others of a similar nature that are not mentioned.

The views expressed in this information product are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views or policies of FAO.

ISBN 978-92-109463-1

© FAO, 2016

FAO encourages the use, reproduction and dissemination of material in this information product. Except where otherwise indicated, material may be copied, downloaded and printed for private study, research and teaching purposes, or for use in non-commercial products or services, provided that appropriate acknowledgement of FAO as the source and copyright holder is given and that FAO’s endorsement of users’ views, products or services is not implied in any way.

All requests for translation and adaptation rights, and for resale and other commercial use rights should be addressed to [email protected]

FAO information products are available on the FAO website (www.fao.org/publications) and can be purchased through [email protected]. Pulses� Acknowledgements� Pulses Nutritious seeds for a sustainable future

HAS BEEN PREPARED BY THE FAO OFFICE OF CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS

This publication was led by Pedro Javaloyes, and coordinated by Síle O’Broin. Art Director Rubén Bruque was supported by Fabrizio Puzzilli and Monica Umena for the English version, and Isla Gráfica for the French version. Sherri Dougherty produced the videos and photo shoots. Santi Mayor Farguell produced the video version of the book.

Síle O’Broin and Lisa R. Tucci edited the English version of the publication, while Hamza Bahri reviewed the French version. The Spanish version was reviewed by María Salas. Eleonora Boni coordinated the translation into French, Spanish, English, Arabic, Chinese and Russian.

We would like to thank a number of FAO experts for their contributions to this publication: Teodardo Calles for providing information on the agricultural aspects of pulses, U. Ruth Charrondiere, Fernanda Grande, Maria Xipsiti, and Chiara Deligia for the nutritional and health information on pulses and their compositional data, Salar Tayyib and his Food Balance Sheets team of the Statistics Division particularly, Luigi Castaldi and Rachele Brivio, for providing statistical data and information on pulses throughout the publication.

The team of writers, photographers, illustrator and infographer are mentioned at the end of this publication.

SEE VIDEO www.fao.org/ pulses-2016

The contents of this publication can be found on the FAO webpage International Year of Pulses www.fao.org/pulses-2016

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS

PART 1 PART 2 PART 3 PART 4 WHAT ARE CARING FOR THE POWER HOW ARE PULSES PULSES? AND COOKING OF PULSES GROWN? YOUR PULSES Presence Nutrition Growing your own and power Keep in mind PAGE 35 garden patch PAGE 12 PAGE 28 PAGE 44 Health A brief guide Condiments PAGE 38 Cultivation around the World PAGE 13 PAGE 29 Climate change PAGE 46 Varieties Cooking PAGE 39 PAGE 14 Pulses in the world PAGE 30 Biodiversity PAGE 50 Instruments PAGE 40 Major producers PAGE 31 Food security PAGE 52 PAGE 41 Major exporters and importers PAGE 54

3 T A B L E OF CONTENTS

1 2 PART 5 A WORLD OF PULSES

1. NORTH AMERICA 6. SOUTH AND Photographs by Benjamin Rasmussen SOUTH EAST ASIA PAGE 58 Photographs by Atul Loke (India) 2. CENTRAL and Asif Hassan (Pakistan) AMERICA AND PAGE 122 THE CARIBBEAN 7. FAR EAST AND Photographs by Adam Wiseman THE PACIFIC PAGE 70 Photographs by Justin Jin 3. SOUTH AMERICA PAGE 144 Photographs by Giuseppe Bizzarri 8. NORTH AFRICA PAGE 82 Photographs by Alan Keohane 4. EUROPE PAGE 156 Photographs by Samuel Aranda 9. CENTRAL AND PAGE 94 WESTERN AFRICA 5. EASTERN EUROPE Photographs by Jane Hahn AND WESTERN ASIA PAGE 168 Photographs by Samuel Aranda 10. EASTERN AND PAG E 110 SOUTHERN AFRICA Photographs by Paul Joynson-Hicks PAGE 176 6 7

4 3 4 5

8 9 10

5 TABLE OF CONTENTS PART 5 A WORLD OF PULSES

Recipes�

1. UNITED STATES 4. SPAIN 6. INDIA 9. MOROCCO CHEF RON PICKARSKI CHEF ABRAHAM GARCÍA CHEF SANJEEV KAPOOR CHEF MOHAMED FEDAL PAGE 64 PAGE 100 PAGE 132 PAGE 162 Mediterranean “A feira” Octopus. Quabooli. Korain. Humma-Nusha. Chickpea and Madgame. Hummus. Picadillo sauce. Cod stew. Teen Dal Ke Dali Harira. Cannellini Bean Mussels on a bed of Bhalle. Polenta loaf. verdina beans. 10. TANZANIA Scallops, lentils 7. PAKISTAN CHEF VERONICA JACKSON 2. MEXICO and sobrassada. CHEF ZUBAIDA TARIQ PAGE 182 CHEF MUÑOZ ZURITA PAGE 138 Maharagwe ya nazi PAGE 76 5. TURKEY Spinach with (Beans in coconut milk). Refried beans. CHEF DIDEM SENOL white lentils. Makande Takgswahajun. PAG E 116 Yellow lentils (Sweetcorn and Frijol Colado. Red lentils burgers. with soya. bean soup). Warm hummus. Punjmel lentils. Maharagwe. 3. BRAZIL Broad bean dip. CHEF HELENA RIZZO 8. CHINA PAGE 88 CHEF SHE ZENGTAI Farofa Campeira. PAGE 150 Homemade black Bean roulade. bean soup. Lily broad beans. Cowpeas with clams Yellow split pea and mushrooms. pudding.

6 �Chefs

1

2 3 4

5 6 7

8 9 10

7 FOREWORD

Nutritious seeds for a sustainable future

The International Year of Pulses helps to kick off the Our world today faces Agenda. Focusing on seeds for sustainability, FAO a tough challenge: ensuring food security while wishes to promote actions that will contribute to providing a balanced diet for everyone around the ending hunger while protecting the environment, the globe. The figures are daunting: around 800 million planet and its inhabitants. suffer from chronic hunger and roughly two billion live with one or more micronutrient deficiencies. Pulses have been an essential part of the human At the same time, over half a billion people are diet for centuries. Yet their nutritional value is clinically obese. not generally recognized and their consumption is frequently under-appreciated. Undeservedly Overcoming hunger and malnutrition in the 21st so, as pulses play a crucial role in healthy diets, century means increasing food quantity and quality, sustainable food production and, above all, in food while making sure we produce food sustainably, security. This book, Pulses. Nutritious seeds for a efficiently and safely. In September 2015, world Sustainable Future, highlights the benefits of these leaders adopted the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable relatively unknown seeds. Given that pulses come Development, a plan of action for people, the in thousands of varieties, it would be impossible planet and prosperity. It defines a list of Sustainable to list them all. Thus, the book focuses on the Development Goals aimed at ending hunger and main families of pulses to whet your appetite. This malnutrition, as well as eradicating extreme poverty book illustrates the five main ways in which pulses and tackling climate change, among other objectives. contribute to food security, nutrition, health, climate

8 change and biodiversity along with an overview of the exchange among civil society, farmers, the private production and trade in pulses worldwide. sector, researchers, government representatives and policy makers, among others. It also takes you on a voyage around the world to demonstrate how pulses are important historically Our team of nutrition experts is already compiling and culturally, as reflected in today's cooking. We are a food composition database of pulses as part of honoured to present ten world-class chefs sharing the FAO/INFOODS Analytical Food Composition their secrets of both traditional and tasty pulse dishes. Database providing specific data on pulses, biodiversity We hope these recipes will entice you to try some or and their relation to agriculture and processing. all of them and encourage you to include more pulses in your weekly diet. This year marks the beginning of making pulses a household staple for those people and nations who Throughout the International Year of Pulses, we may not know their incredible properties. At the same will continue our efforts in bringing together a wide time, we have made good progress towards our goal spectrum of different actors, from diverse sectors, of having pulses enriching the earth and sustaining to enhance awareness about pulse production and entire populations. These super foods have been consumption around the world. Our intention is nourishing people since historical records began and to create synergies amongst our many and valued a long time before. stakeholders and to lay the foundation for projects aimed at expanding the role of pulses in sustainable So much still needs to be done to end world food production. hunger and provide food security and nutrition for a swelling global population, expected to FAO is disseminating information on pulses in reach over 9 billion by 2050. But one concrete, both print and multimedia, as well as hosting events promising, sustainable and cost-effective at national, regional and global levels. Through these opportunity lies within the tiniest of seeds found regional dialogues and global awareness campaigns, in a multitude of plants: Pulses. Seeds for a we aim to stimulate discussion and information sustainable future.

José Graziano da Silva Director-General

9 Part What are pulses?� FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Presence and of A brief power guide pulses to Pulses ou see them each Across cultures and cuisines, their open up new pathways for agricultural and every day: at the culinary versatility has given rise to and nutritional developments that, until grocery store, the a host of delicious recipes on every recently, were pure science fiction. farmer’s market, as continent. Amongst the praises of side orders served pulses are their vast geographical And for good measure, from a cultural with your favourite range, high nutritional value and low viewpoint, dry pulses are a symbol dish.Y So innocuous, or such a staple, water requirements, their unique of travel, globalization and coming they hardly garner a mention except ability to self-fertilize, (adding together. In ancient times, pulses when served as soup on a cold necessary nitrogen to farmland kept the troops well fed, while in winter’s day. But these tiny, seemingly and improving crops along the Italy, bags of pulses were served up to nondescript seeds or beans or pods… way), along with maintaining their augur prosperity each new year. The have been packing a power punch health benefits over a long shelf life. domesticated pulse has been common for a power lunch since time began; All these reasons, make pulses an to all peoples since olden times, with no possibly playing the starring role as uncompromising enemy of hunger distinction of race, religion or culture. the harbinger of our very survival as and malnutrition worldwide. Pulses If the need for food is something a species. And yet, you have never are a genuine superfood for the future. that unites every single human, the heard of them. What in the world extraordinary global reach of pulses is a are Pulses? Air quality, access to clean drinking powerful universal language between water and a healthy diet are three nations. Pulses originating in Asia Pulses are ancient, very ancient. big challenges to humanity’s long- are found in Africa and vice versa, They are a hearty plant species that term survival. Dry pulses, combined while the African varieties grow in the has existed for millions of years, with other staples, will be the key Americas, and American strains found a sort of wonder plant that grows to meeting these challenges. As a their way over to Europe and Oceania. in any conditions and climes. It is category of foodstuff, pulses vary The widespread adoption of pulses has thought that their domestication widely in nutritional properties been diverse, yet constant and total, could pre-date maize. Found on all and flavour, while as a whole, their because they all have one thing in four corners of the earth, excluding unique qualities make them ideal common: their unquestionable practical only the poles and infertile deserts, for sustainable farming. Scientific benefits which any nation or culture can pulses are grown even in regions research into plant biofortification, appreciate. with extreme hot and cold climes. to increase the micronutrient content But they deserve their pride of place: and improve resistance to disease When the time comes to cross the For many, pulses provide the main and weather, have yielded excellent final frontier and humanity reaches source of plant protein. And they results with certain pulses. As we for the stars, there is no doubt that are not just good for you, they taste delve into this age-old food, we pulses will travel with humans good, too. discover that pulses are primed to wherever they may go.

12 A brief guide to Pulses ulses belong nitrogen-fixation properties, a to the Fabaceae natural process that has been, or Leguminosae and continues to be, important family, these for soil enrichment. In short, plants are the unlike other plants, pulses carry What does world’s third properties that improve the soil FAO Plargest group of plant life. They in which they are grown and this are thought to have originated helps other plants flourish as well. some 90 million years ago, with a consider diversification process beginning Pulses, though small in size, in the early Tertiary era. The pack quite a nutritional punch. as Fabaceae family contains over Pulses are eaten all over pulses? 20 000 species and 700 genera, of the world in stews, flours, Though which only some are categorised purées, accompaniments, as leguminous plants, such as snacks and desserts. They are taxonomically it is the Vicia, Cicer, Lens and Cajanus a rich source of protein and correct to include groups. Humans have cultivated essential amino acids that act fresh peas, green pulses since the dawn of farming as the perfect complement to as one of the first plants in the cereals. They are also a good beans, soybeans world to be domesticated. supply of carbohydrates and and alfalfa in this micronutrients, as well as high- plant family, the Dried pulses are the dehydrated quality dietary fibre. Their low edible seeds of these leguminous fat content and the interaction FAO categorises plants that produce from one to of their sterols have been proven these as vegetables. twelve grains of various sizes, to be effective at maintaining Likewise, seeds shapes and colours within a low LDL cholesterol levels and pod. Their seeds can be used for reducing blood pressure. that are grown for human consumption or animal biofuel do not fall fodder. These hearty plants are And while some pulses are into the category of not only healthy, they’re good widely known, others are for the earth as well. They can found only in certain regions or pulses as far as the grow in arid lands requiring specific cuisines. Following is a FAO is concerned. very little water – concentrated classification guiding us through during their early stages of the most significant groups growth. Leguminous plants have across the world of pulses.

13 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

THE FOLLOWING LIST ILLUSTRATES Varieties THE MAJOR GROUPS of �pulses DRIED BEANS Borlotti beans Black beans Adzuki beans Cannellini beans Red kidney beans Haricot beans Flageolet beans Pinto beans Mung beans Urd beans (BLACK GRAM) Tepary beans

LUPINES BAMBARA BROAD BEANS BEANS

14 LENTILS Red lentils Yellow lentils Green or brown lentils Puy lentils Umbrian lentils

CHICKPEAS Bambai chickpeas Desi chickpeas DRIED PEAS Kabuli chickpeas

DRIED PIGEON PEAS

VETCHES

DRIED COWPEAS

WINGED BEANS

SWORD BEANS 15 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Varieties of pulses

DRIED BEANS These are pulses of the genera Phaseolus, from the Americas, and Vigna, found in various parts of Asia. They include: common beans—pinto, black, white or in various colours—all belonging to the Phaseolus vulgaris root and one of the planet’s most widespread crops, lima beans, adzuki beans, black grams in various tones, mung beans, runner beans, ricebeans, moth bean and tepary beans. Dry beans are the most that does not have its own to celebrate the mid-Autumn widespread of all pulses and favourite bean dish today. But festival. They can also be can be found virtually in every this was not always the case. ground into flour as well as country on earth. In the past, people developed used whole in casseroles and a love-hate relationship with warm salads. The International Center beans. The upper classes in of Tropical Agriculture in ancient Egypt shunned beans Black Beans Colombia holds more than as they were considered Glossy black kidney-shaped 36 000 samples of beans food fit only for commoners. beans are a favourite in in its databases. The first Ancient Romans used beans for Caribbean cuisine. They are domesticated beans in the balloting both in elections and surprisingly sweet and adding Americas were found in in court. Black beans stood for black beans to any dish adds a Guitarrero Cave, in Peru, opposition or guilt while white dramatic flair to soups, mixed and dated back to around the beans were cast in agreement or bean salads or enchiladas. Bronze Age. Evidence of pulse to declare innocence. production around Ravi River Cannellini Beans in Punjab, the seat of the Indus Adzuki Beans Also known as “Italian white Valley civilization, was found Deep red with a sweet, kidney beans” or fasolia beans, dating circa 3 300 BC. As a vine, nutty flavor, these beans are these white beans are slightly the bean plant needs external particularly popular in Asian small, kidney-shaped with support to grow, and native cooking. The Japanese call a square end. When cooked, Americans were known to the adzuki beans “the king they have a fluffy texture and a plant them alongside corn and of beans” and prize them for slightly nutty, mild flavour. The squash, with the tall cornstalks their reputedly health-giving cannellini bean is a popular acting as support for the beans. properties to the liver and feature of Italian cuisine, A staple food in the Middle kidneys. In China, they form appearing in dishes such as East, South America, India and the base of a sweet paste minestrone, pasta e fagioli soup the Mediterranean, there is used as a filling in a variety and as a stewed bean side dish hardly a country in the world of breads and in mooncakes made with garlic and rosemary.

16 Borlotti Beans Flageolet Beans These rather large, plump Originating from France, the oval-shaped beans are flageolet bean is a small, pinkish-brown in colour mint-green and kidney- with reddish-brown streaks shaped haricot bean. Picked and a bittersweet flavour. before full maturity and When cooked, they are tender dried in the shade to retain and moist, making them its green colour, this is the interchangeable with red most expensive bean at kidney beans in most recipes market. The French treat this such as vegetable stews, special flageolet bean simply: casseroles and salads. cooked until tender and then seasoned with herbs and a Red Kidney Bean simple dressing to best enjoy Shiny, deep mahogany red its firm and creamy texture. kidney beans retain their colour and shape when cooked Haricot and have a soft mealy texture. (or Navy) Beans A favourite in South American These beans go by different cooking, they are commonly names: navy bean, haricot used in chili con carne. They or pearl haricot bean, are also an integral part of white pea bean or pea northern Indian cuisine, where bean. These versatile, dry the beans are called rajma and and ivory–coloured beans, are part of a dish of the same small, with a slightly flattened name. In southern Louisiana, oval shape, are smaller than USA, red kidney beans are in many other types of white the classic Creole dish of red beans. The haricot beans are beans paired with rice. usually found in pies

17 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Varieties of pulses

as well as in various soups. and refried with garlic, chili and Unlike canned vegetables, which tomatoes and eaten with rice or lose much of their nutritive as a filling for tortillas, topped value during the canning with cream and guacamole. process, navy beans maintain their nutritive value even Tepary Beans when canned. This little-known bean is one of the oldest agricultural Mung Beans pulses of the American These small, oval, olive-coloured Southwest and Mexico. In beans are mainly cultivated Mexico alone there are over a today in India, China, and hundred registered varieties Southeast Asia, but are widely of the tepary bean. Tepary eaten in their sprouted form, can be toasted and then beansprouts. Mung beans ground and mixed with water, are also cultivated in hot, dry but when cooked they are regions of Southern Europe and light and mealy. the southern United States and used as an ingredient in both Urd Beans sweet and savoury dishes. (Black Gram) These grey-black seeds are Pinto Beans similar to mung beans in size The pinto bean is a smaller and texture. The urd bean and paler version of the borlotti is widely eaten in Southeast bean. Speckled and in a variety Asia as a purée or daal and of colours, it earned its name is known by many names, of “painted bean”. A staple in including urd, urd bean, Mexican cuisine, it is most often urad, urid, black gram, eaten whole in broth or mashed black lentil or white lentil.

18 BAMBARA hard seeds. Their seeds must be in South America, these boiled for a long time before they are a popular snack usually GROUNDNUTS can be used in stews. They are preserved in brine or pickled. Vigna subterranea emerged in also eaten as a snack or to enrich They are widely grown in West Africa. These underground certain flours or porridges. They Australia, Europe, Russia and pulses grow exclusively in are a very important food source South America and actually Africa (with a different name in small African communities. boast several species within depending on the country) and each variety, each with a they are very similar to peanuts, different level of bitterness or though their fat and protein LUPINES sweetness. They are also used content is lower. Their colour Including Lupinus albus, native as an additive to enrich cereal varies depending on the variety. to the Mediterranean, and flours, as they can contain up to Bambara beans are actually very Lupinus mutabilis, originating 40% protein.

19 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Varieties of pulses

Lupin, lupine or lupini cultivation, being among the globe. European beans were popular in the easiest of plants colonisers brought them ancient Rome and were to grow in harsh, cold to the Americas and they cultivated throughout the climates. With a strong, are a plentiful staple in Roman Empire. Today, nutty flavor and tough, European, Arabic, Mexican, the European white lupini light brown outer skin North American and beans are commonly sold and creamy texture, broad western Asian cuisines. pickled in brine and can beans make an excellent Also called garbanzo be eaten with or without accompaniment to a wide beans, robust and hearty the skin. number of dishes. chickpeas look like shelled hazelnuts and delight DRIED BROAD Ancient Romans also palates with their delicious cultivated broad beans and nutty flavour and creamy BEANS used them to celebrate the texture. A favourite in Native to the Roman feast of Fabaria, as Mediterranean and Middle Mediterranean and perhaps offerings to the gods. Eastern cultures – falafel Central Asia, broad beans and hummus are two of are undemanding, high- DRIED the most popular chickpea yield crops grown far dishes. In India, chickpeas and wide, including in CHICKPEAS are also ground into flour Australia, Bolivia, China, Cicer arietinum or to make flat breads and Ecuador, Egypt, Ethiopia, chickpeas originated in fritters. Chickpeas are also Peru and Venezuela. Broad the region now known as used for split pea (daal) or beans are also called fava Turkey. Highly prized for for flour after the hulls beans, pigeon beans, their culinary versatility, are removed, particularly horse beans, and Windsor nutritional value and in India and Pakistan. beans. Broad beans storing potential, they There are three main types have a long tradition of are widespread around of chickpea:

20 Desi has small, darker seeds and a rough coat. Grown mainly in India, Ethiopia, Mexico and Iran. “Desi” means ‘country’ or ‘local’; its other names include Bengal gram or kala chana which means black chickpea or chola boot. Desi is probably the earliest variety because it closely resembles seeds found at archaeological sites. Domesticated chickpeas Green Chickpeas the Mediterranean, South have a wild plant ancestor, are a common sight in the America, and in Southeast Cicer reticulatum, which bustling markets across the Asia. The name means “from only grows in southeast state of Maharashtra, India. Kabul”, and this variety was Turkey, where the chickpea Tender, immature green thought to come from Kabul, is believed to have chickpeas are roasted over Afghanistan when it was originated. Desi is used to hot coals before the skin is introduced to India and then make chana daal, which is removed. They are deliciously to Africa. a split chickpea with the creamy as soups, in hummus, skin removed. falafel, as a unique pesto or An uncommon black tossed into salads. chickpea, ceci neri, Bambai chickpeas are also larger and darker than dark but slightly larger than Kabuli is lightly-coloured, the desi variety, is desi. They, too, are popular in larger, and with a smoother grown only in Apulia, in the Indian subcontinent. coat and is mainly grown in southeastern Italy.

21 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Varieties of pulses

LENTILS wonder they have been a Lens culinaris are thought to treasured foodstuff since have originated in the Middle the Egypt of the pharaohs. East. Coming in a wide variety Archaeologists also discovered of colours, from yellow to traces of lentils buried with the red-orange to green, brown dead in Egyptian pyramids. and black, they originated in The humble lentil had by this Asia and North Africa. The time already reached mythical lentil is one of the oldest and status and was praised for its hardiest foods. There is no ability to enlighten the mind, legume more resistant to arid even in the afterlife. lands than the lentil. It needs very little water to grow and Yellow Lentils can survive the coldest of Although less well-known climates. Lentils do not need than red lentils, bright yellow to be soaked before cooking varieties are similar in taste and are ideal for thickening and they are cooked in the soups, casseroles and when same way. cooked with spices, make for a delicious daal. Their tolerance Puy Lentils of arid land and extreme These are small, dark blue- temperatures, their multiple green bead-like lentils found culinary uses and the way their in the Auverne region in flavour marries with almost central France. Considered any plant or animal ingredient, to be the tastiest of all the have led to their consumption varieties, they retain their all over the world. It is no shape during cooking.

22 their shape. They are ideal for casseroles, stuffings and when mixed with herbs can make a wonderful vegetarian pâté. Umbrian Lentils Italy and the Mediterranean diet in general has a long history of gorgeous lentils. These golden-brown Italian lentils are often cooked with onion, garlic and herbs. In some regions, they serve as a bed for spicy sausages or Red Lentils wonderful thick puree. Ideal hamhocks or are served as Rich in both colour and for thickening soups and soups or condiments. Italians taste, these deep–orange casseroles, when spiced up, and in the Philippines start split lentils, also called they make a delicious daal. off the new year by eating Egyptian lentils or masoor lentils just after midnight — daal, are the most familiar Green and Brown according to tradition, the variety. Although lentils are Lentils more lentils you eat, the more quite hard even when fresh, Unlike the red and yellow pennies you bring in — so unlike other pulses they do varieties, these common serving up a huge dish of not require soaking prior to disc-shaped lentils, known as lentils is thought to bring cooking. During cooking, continental lentils. Although wealth and good fortune they disintegrate into a they turn soft, they still retain throughout the whole year!

23 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Varieties of pulses

Russia and the Ukraine. Dry VETCH pea seeds were cultivated by hunter-gatherers and Vicia sativa was consumed archaeological evidence by humans as early as suggests that these peas the Neolithic Era, and its would have been planted in cultivation was standardised the eastern Mediterranean and documented during the and Mesopotamia regions in Roman Empire. It is now the Neolithic Age. primarily grown as fertiliser or livestock fodder. Unlike lentils, peas are soft when young and require DRIED PIGEON drying. Peas are tiny spherical PEAS DRIED PEAS seeds and are available either whole or split. Usually boiled Cajanus cajan, are native to Of the genus Pisum, they are or steamed, like split lentils, the Indian subcontinent, thought to have originated in split peas disintegrate into though their origin is the Mediterranean or Middle a thick puree, making them sometimes disputed with East. They were mentioned perfect for daals, pureés, Africa, where they are known by Columella, one of the casseroles and soups. Peas as Congo peas. Colonial most important writers on have also played an important settlers introduced these agriculture in the Roman role in science. In the mid- plants to the Caribbean, Empire. They are used for 19th century, Austrian monk, and they are now a common making soups and flours and Gregor Mendel, through feature of the region’s cuisine. in various eastern cultures his keen observations of Highly resistant to drought, they are enjoyed as a snack. pea pods, developed the their roots are ideal for The world’s leading producers principles of Mendelian enhancing soil. In addition of dry peas are northern genetics, the foundation of to being a food source, in countries like Canada, modern genetics. some eastern countries they

24 DRIED bean bears a distinctive black dot on its side, where COWPEAS it was once attached to its Of the species Vigna life-giving pod. unguiculata, are pulses from West Africa that travelled OTHER DRIED relatively early on to Asia, sometime in the third PULSES millennium BC. They are Less widely grown and grown and consumed all over consumed , these fall into Asia, Africa (especially Sahel, various plant genera, such as where the bulk of the world’s the sweet hyacinth beans cowpeas are produced), (Lablab purpureus) native to Southern Europe, and Africa, Brazil’s jack beans Central and South America. (Canavalia ensiformis), Their cultivation needs sword beans (Canavalia are used to house insects for and nutritional properties, gladiata) from certain ink and resin production. But combined wtih their ability tropical regions in Asia their greatest consumers are to coexist with other crops and Africa, winged beans found in Asia. Today, they in semiarid regions, make (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus) are mainly produced in India, them an important part originating in New Guinea Africa and Central America of the pulse family. Also and velvet beans (Mucuna and are widely available known as the black-eyed pruriens), of tropical origin. everywhere. In India, pigeon pea, southern pea, crowder The grass pea, Lathyrus peas are as important to the pea, lubia, niebe, coupe sativus, is known by various diet as chickpeas and are or frijole, the cowpea is an names. They are eaten in widely used to make daal essential ingredient in Creole Asia, Eastern Africa and in or paired with cereals for a cuisine and Indian curries. European countries, such nutritiously complete meal. The small cream-coloured as Italy and Spain.

25 Caring for Part & cooking your pulses Caring for & cooking your� pulses FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Caring for & cooking your pulses

Keep� in mind Water is the most important ingredient for pulses (also called legumes), and distilled or mineral water may be used when tap water is hard or contains excess chlorine or lime.

The proportion of water to the legume should be enough to cover the legume and not too much that it cannot be absorbed. When legumes are not pre-soaked or they are more than 18 months old, two parts of water in weight or volume should be used to one part of legumes. If they were soaked in advance, one somewhat generous portion of water is sufficient to compensate for evaporation when they are cooked over medium heat. In any event, when cooking in an open pot you must always make sure that the liquid completely covers the legumes, and add water if needed; hot water if cooking chickpeas, and cold or lukewarm water for other pulses.

If the legumes were not pre-soaked, they can still be softened by covering them with cold water and adding one-half teaspoon yeast for each half kilogram of legumes. After cooking over low heat for 40 minutes, drain and add cold water (less water if cooking chickpeas) to start the stewing process. Chickpeas are the only legume that should be Storage�� cooked – after pre-soaking them for no less than eight hours Most dry northern hemisphere – by placing them into hot or boiling water instead of placing legumes can begins in September, them into cold water, which is what is done with other legumes. be stored for a and in the southern long time, even hemisphere, around If they are cooked in a pressure cooker, this precaution for years, without March. should also be taken and they should be placed into the pot spoiling and still retain To start with, your with hot water. Furthermore, to prevent them from breaking or their nutrients. As a legumes will be losing their skins when they bump into each other during general rule, pulses found sold by the boiling, they should be placed in a strainer before putting them will retain excellent bulk at markets or into the pot.Ingredients that are added to legumes may modify quality for 18 months. pre-packaged from their overall nutritional value, and including appropriate Although the longer stores. Once home, they ingredients in their preparation may greatly add to their taste they are stored, the should be stored dry, and properties, whether it is fresh produce, meat or grains. more time-consuming preferably in airtight and expensive it is to glass containers. When At the end of cooking, if the broth is very liquid and needs to cook them. In any event, selecting, be sure to be thickened, the most effective thing to do is to puree it using a chefs prefer the freshest read labels and choose blender or by stirring it by hand, taking a couple of spoonsful and legumes when they are those that do not have mixing it with the stew, and sieving the pot later to bind the broth. in season, which in the added flavors

28 Condiments The best� seasoning for legumes is one that offers both olfactory and taste nuances that expand the diversity of stews. Don’t be afraid to try out many aromatic and special herbs, such as cumin and other spices, that help digestion and are especially delicious.

One bay leaf is often added to cooked lentils, which gives them a delicious aroma and flavour. Another classic among seasonings is a mix or bouquet of aromatics, called a bouquet garni in professional cooking, comprised of thyme, parsley and bay leaf, ideal for stews and casseroles. Special seasonings such as whole pepper corns, cloves or curry, provide unusual savory flashes of taste, boldly fusing with vegetables, such and those with the environment, there is they are usually as okra in Cajun cooking. Masalas lowest sodium content the same danger of food prepared by boiling or tahini offer yet another taste possible, in order to poisoning, as with any them, there is no risk of sensation to your pulses. be able to season them other seasoned food. food poisoning provided to your own taste. that they are cooked Paprika is an ingredient in In some cases, taste and eaten immediately, dried pepper reduced to a powder may be modified by or if refrigerated after by grinding. Its range in flavours the additives used cooking. may be sweet, smoky or spicy, during the preservation Keep in mind that which makes it an ingredient that process. But keep in there is also the risk of expands the possibilities of mind, these pulses fermentation, especially nuanced flavours. Remember that still offer nutritional with soups stored in paprika should be added to the alternatives that reduce Pulses are usually warm places. In tropical sauté when the oil is already warm preparation times. stored in a glass jar or environments, legumes because cooking it on high heat Storage should be in can or vacuum-packed should always be stored makes the stew bitter. Garlic, onion a cool, dry place. If or frozen are good in the refrigerator after and oil are used to refry items and pulses are exposed for quick and easy they have been cooked should be added at the end of the to a somewhat warm preparation. Because and cooled. cooking process.

29 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Caring for & cooking your pulses

Soaking� The first step in prepping legumes for cooking is to wash them, as they might contain impurities that should be eliminated, such as the remains of the hull or the chaff, dirt, small stones, or small seeds that will not soften during cooking. This is a precaution that is increasingly less necessary, because packaged legumes go through an effective pre- selection process. To wash them, place pulses in a larger strainer or colander and you should run your fingers through them to remove any foreign substances; Repeat the process again under Cooking a running faucet or water � In general, legumes seasoning. When soft, top for a nice touch, source. Once rinsed, place are quite easy to cook. add them to a pot of making sure not to pulses in a large vessel for 1) Place them in a pot chopped vegetables, break them. soaking. Be sure to use a covering them with or whatever recipe large bowl because the plenty of water and you are preparing. Boil For beans or lentils, legumes may increase ingredients that add everything together, place them in a pot and in volume up to two to flavor. 2) Heat the taste for salt, and serve. cover with cold water three times, depending on water till boiling, and If pre-cooked legumes or broth; do not salt the variety. then 3) Cook on low are used, first rinse them to keep them from Soaking should ideally not heat until soft. them, mix them directly hardening. To make last more than 12 hours. After in the pot with the them more tender, this time, the water should be To stew legumes, place seasonings and some once the legumes have changed. Soaking legumes (prepped) pulses into water or broth, and just started to boil, for 24 hours will start the your pot and bring to bring to a low boil. you can change the fermentation or sprouting boil as above. They water for cold water, processes. After soaking, should be cooked To serve pulses in or you can shock it rinse them until the water over low heat with salads, once they are up to three times: runs clear to eliminate the a little bit of olive tender, rinse them and adding a splash of sugars that come loose during oil and a vegetable let them cool. Prepare cold water to decrease soaking, making pulses such as onion, garlic, your salad, adding the boiling. When difficult to digest. leeks or shallots, as them perhaps on the removing legumes,

30 Inst ruments� Here we look at the basic necessities in order to prepare everyday pulse dishes. Simply put, to pre-prepare legumes, you will need: a strainer or colander to wash and rinse your legumes, an appropriate bowl in which to soak them, and a pot in which to cook them over low heat.

Pots, pans or casserole dishes should be made of stainless steel, or they should be enamel-coated. Wooden spoons or utensils should be used for stirring, because handling or simple contact with metal instruments during cooking can deteriorate, break or remove the skin off the legumes. Wide casserole dishes can be used in which the legumes just cover the bottom of the pan. This will allow them to cook especially beans, warm water and a little they do not develop uniformly, with the added advantage swirl the contents of salt, and if more water any type of bacteria, that the legumes resting on the bottom the pot by picking up needs to be added, and they should be do not bear the weight of those on top. the pot by its handles always add hot water. refrigerated or frozen rather than using a Adding in cold water as soon as possible A pressure cooker is very spoon, which will – which is fine for after cooling. If they efficient, especially for shortening prevent the legumes other legumes – causes are going to be used cooking times, although some expert from breaking. In chickpeas to undergo in salads, add vinegar chefs are hesitant to use them. truth, this only affects a brusque temperature or lemon zest to keep Except for the risk of opening them the aesthetics of the change that interrupts bacteria from growing. too soon when there is still pressure dish, but to many the cooking, causing inside – nearly impossible today with chefs, that is equally them to harden thus To lessen flatulence more modern pressure cookers – this important! Salt to preventing them from caused by legumes, the type of cooking does not spoil taste and serve. cooking uniformally. best remedy is to drain legumes in any way. In fact, pressure them after cooking, cookers perfectly concentrate all the Chickpeas are an Cooked legumes and then soak them pulse qualities, moreso than cooking exception to how should not be left at again for one hour in them in an open pot. Pay close legumes are usually room temperature for cold water. Discard attention to each manufacturer’s cooked. As previously more than four hours. the water and then instructions on cooking times and stated – but it bears It is best to keep them continue preparing temperatures so that your legumes repeating – start with above 55ºC so that your recipe. don’t turn into mush.

31 PartPartPart TheTheThe powerpowerpower ofofof � � �pulsespulsespulses FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

FIVE WAYS PULSES IMPACT OUR WORLD

Pulses are1. some Nut of rthe i tmost i o n nutritious crops on the planet.

They offer 2.one ofHealth the best investments in your heart and overall health.

Their cultivation3. helpsClimate reduce greenhouse Change gases and provides increased carbon sequestration which is good for the planet.

Pulses improve4. Biodiversity soil fertility and nourish crops planted alongside them.

They are a5. low-cost Food crop Securityfor farmers, they flourish in arid lands and have a long shelf life.

34 1. Nutrition Top � 10 reasons to eat pulses 1. Low-fat 2. Low sodium 3. Good source of iron Striking the right digested. Not only does this 4. High source of protein nutritional balance is a give a feeling of satiety, but it 5. Excellent source of fibre also helps stabilize blood sugar problem round the world 6. Excellent source of folate and insulin levels by reducing Either it is a question of taking 7. High source of potassium spikes after mealtimes. This in too much – with obesity an 8. Low glycemic index makes pulses an ideal choice epidemic affecting 500+ million for people with diabetes, while 9. Cholesterol-free – or too little, with 800 million improving insulin resistance 10. Gluten-free chronically hungry. Pulses makes pulses play a role in provide the perfect solution. weight management. Beans, broad beans, chickpeas, lentils and peas are key ingredients of a healthy diet that Pulses and rice – can address both issues in each a perfect match While pulses are highly nutritious and every serving. While they may have higher alone, to reap the full benefits from Pulses are naturally packed with protein-content than grains, this bundle of healthy seeds one low-fat protein and fibre. Rich in pulses have an incomplete set of needs to increase the body’s ability nutrients, vitamins and minerals, amino acids. to absorb their nutrients more they are excellent antioxidants In contrast, what pulses are fully. In many cultures, it comes that counteract our natural missing can mostly be found naturally to combine pulses with ageing processes. Pulses contain in rice and other cereals. This foods rich in vitamin C. So you twice the amount of protein is why rice and pulses, across might find someone sprinkling found in whole grain cereals cultures and continents, are lemon juice on lentil curry. This (wheat, oats and barley) and often eaten together. Our allows the body to absorb the three times that of rice. Protein ancestors must have intuitively iron found in pulses even better. quality matters, particularly for known this, which might The iron found in chickpeas, for growth and development. explain the wide variety of example, is absorbed with difficulty Some of the key minerals exotic pairings of beans, unless combined with vitamin C. found in pulses include iron, chickpeas or lentils, from Being able to absorb as many of potassium, magnesium and South America to Asia and the nutrients available in pulses zinc. Pulses are also particularly throughout the Mediterranean. becomes particularly important for abundant in B vitamins; Whether traditional delicacies vegetarian and plant-based diets. including folate, thiamin or national dishes, pulses All said, it takes very little to make and niacin. hold pride of place across pulses a potent food for preventing Pulses are also high in complex the culinary spectrum, and iron deficiency anaemia in women carbohydrates and fibre, which undoubtedly, they will be and children and contributing to means that they are slowly served with grains. overall good health.

35 NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME ENERGY PROTEIN FAT FIBRE Nutritional(kcal) kJ (g) (g) (g) values

Bambara groundnuts Vigna subterranea (326) 1360 20.1 5.9 28.9

Broad beans Vicia faba (300) 1260 26.1 1.8 26.3

Cowpeas Vigna unguiculata (316) 1330 21.2 1.3 15.3

Lentils Lens culinaris (336) 1420 25.4 1.8 10.7

Pigeon peas Cajanus cajan (300) 1260 18.4 1.5 20.2

Adzuki beans Vigna angularis (310) 1310 19.9 0.53 12.7

Pintos beans Phaseolus vulgaris (316) 1330 21.4 1.23 15.5

Black beans Phaseolus vulgaris (288) 1210 21.3 1.2 21.8

White beans Phaseolus vulgaris (315) 1330 22.3 1.5 15.3

Mung beans Vigna radiata (324) 1370 23.9 1.15 16.3

Red kidney beans Phaseolus vulgaris (314) 1330 22.5 1.06 15.2

Chickpeas Cicer arietinum (340) 1430) 21.2 5.4 12.4

Kabuli chickpeas Cicer arietinum (370) 1560 21.5 6.05 12.6

Desi chickpea Cicer arietinum (366) 1540 20.8 5.1 13.7

Urd beans (black gram) Vigna mungo (315) 1330 25.2 1.64 18.3

Lupin beans Lupinus albus (356) 1490 36.17 9.74 18.9

Cannellini beans Phaseolus vulgaris (323) 1360 23.4 1.6 17. 6

Borlotti beans Phaseolus vulgaris (324) 1370 20.2 2 17. 3

Peas Pisum sativum (308) 1290 18.44 1.4 26

ALL PULSES HAVE 0 CHOLESTEROL

36 CARBOHYDRATE FE (mg) MG (mg) P (mg) K (mg) ZN (mg) CU (mg) VIT B9/FOLATE Nutritional values(g) Iron Magnesium Phosphorous Potassium Zinc Copper (μg/100g)

28.9 3.3 199 275 119 0 3.38 0.89 n.a.

31.7 6.1 191 506 1080 3.1 0.82 423

4 7. 2 7. 3 187 387 1210 4.61 0.68 417

49.3 7 103 391 855 3.9 0.74 295

43.2 4.7 183 269 1390 1.96 1.02 456

50.2 4.98 127 381 1254 5.04 1.09 622

4 7.1 5.07 176 411 1393 2.28 0.893 525

37 6.5 188 471 1416 2.9 0.83 444

45.5 5.49 175 407 1185 3.65 0.834 364

46.3 6.74 189 367 1246 2.68 0.941 625

46.1 6.69 138 406 1359 2.79 0.699 394

45.5 5.4 146 342 1116 3.2 0.67 557

51 5.4 157 319 1110 2.41 n.a. 236

52.3 5.1 154 294 110 0 2.36 n.a. 251

40.7 7.57 267 379 983 3.35 0.981 216

21.47 4.36 198 440 1013 4.75 1.02 355

44.9 8.8 170 460 1411 3.6 0.7 n.a.

4 7. 7 9 163 464 1478 2.9 0.7 n.a.

42.4 3.5 116 295 1010 2.39 n.a. 138 West African Food Composition Table (FAO, 2012); USDA SR 28 (2015); Tabela brasileira de composição alimentos / 2012); USDA SR 28 (2015); Tabela (FAO, African Food Composition Table SOURCES: West di composizione degli alimenti; unpublished data – UNICAMP (2011); CREA website (accessed 2016) Tabelle NEPA VALUES FOR RAW AND DRIED PULSES AS PER 100 G EDIBLE PORTION ON FRESH WEIGHT BASIS. AVAILABLE CARBOHYDRATES. DIETARY FIBRE

37 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

2. Health�

If diet is one of the most Pulses–power pod important contributors to health, then a healthy AID WEIGHT IMPROVE NUTRITION plant-based diets is MANAGEMENT significantly improved diet is one of the best defences Pulses are good sources Naturally low-fat and when pulses are against illness. In fact, poor diet of vitamins such as high in fibre and with folate, which is shown consumed together and malnutrition are the greatest with grains. a low glycemic index, to reduce the risk of causes of illness and premature pulses are ideal for neural tube defects RELIEVE FOOD death across the globe. Pulses everyone. Their high fibre (NTDs) like spina bifida in ALLERGIES are special forces from the plant content increases satiety newborn babies. gluten- world that not only can reinforce and helps stabilize blood Because they’re sugar and insulin levels free, pulses are a overall health, but actually PREVENT IRON thereby reducing spikes DEFICIENCY desirable food for anyone prevent disease as well. after eating and improving with gluten allergy or insulin resistance. In short, High in iron content, suffering from Celiac pulses are an ideal food pulses are a potent disease. Pulses are rich in food for preventing iron bioactive properties such for diabetics and for weight management. deficiency anaemia in PROTECT HEALTH as phytochemicals and women and children Pulses are rich in antioxidants, which help in when combined with REDUCE HEART bioactive compounds foods containing vitamin the prevention of disease such DISEASE such as phytochemicals C to improve iron as breast and prostate cancer. High in soluble fibre, and antioxidants that absorption. Phytoestrogens are also known which is known for may contain anti- to prevent cognitive decline, its positive impact on cancer properties. lowering LDL cholesterol, ADD PROTEIN QUALITY Phytoestrogens may reduce menopausal symptoms a recognized risk Protein quality matters, also prevent cognitive and promote bone health. factor for coronary particularly for growth decline, reduce In some studies, experts found heart disease, pulses and development. menopausal symptoms that regular consumption of may reduce the risks of The protein quality of and thereby promote pulses – four or more times per coronary heart disease. vegetarian diets and bone health. week – helps reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease in subjects by 22 percent compared to those who consumed pulses less than once a week. This insoluble fibre. Soluble fibre is known as folic acid or vitamin B-9, is due to a number of traits of instrumental in lowering blood which aids in energy metabolism pulses, in particular, their high cholesterol levels and controlling and is needed for the synthesis of doses of potassium and fibre. blood sugar levels, while DNA, RNA and red blood cells. Potassium can aid in lowering insoluble fibre aids in digestion Without adequate folate levels, blood pressure while fibre and regularity. people are more likely to develop reduces LDL cholesterol. depression, heart disease and Super-rich in fibre, pulses Pulses also support nervous system age-related vision or hearing loss. contain both soluble and health as they contain folate, also Folate also reduces the risk of

38 3. Climate change neural tube defects (NTDs) Scientists the world over Furthermore, pulses improve the soil’s in embryos and newborns so conclude that our climate is carbon sequestration, meaning that it is especially important for changing rapidly, largely due part of natural CO2 emissions are pregnant women to include to human activities releasing carbon absorbed by the earth. Countries can folate-rich foods like red lentils dioxide and other greenhouse gases favour cropping systems that are more in their diets. into the atmosphere. Agriculture resilient to climate change perhaps production, namely farming, forestry, by cultivating hearty varieties known Bloating and livestock, emit nearly one third only in certain areas, such as Bambara

While pulses are good for of the global total of CO2. Agriculture beans, to great effect on our health your health, typically, people is therefore both the largest culprit and on our planet. shy away from them and reach for climate change and its greatest for other foods. Pulses can victim. The answer to mitigating, cause bloating, flatulence, and adapting and reducing the effects of unless soaked for hours, can climate change come in the form of a Pulses are hardier take a very long time to cook. single seed: the pulse. than most other crops, This is because they contain withstanding severe anti-nutrients that can cause Water is a precious commodity for some bodily discomfort poor farmers living on arid lands. weather like droughts during digestion. The good Pulses require less water than other and floods, where other news is that these issues can crops to grow, which means they are crops fail; thus acting as easily be side-stepped by especially suited to dry, arid lands an unflinching David to soaking pulses overnight and where the majority of these poor rural the Goliath ravages of introducing them gradually farmers reside. Some pulses, such as climate change. into the diet. But nowadays, Bambara nuts, can grow in marginal agricultural scientists are areas where farmers are unable to bringing new breeds of pulses cultivate other crops. to market containing fewer anti-nutrients and requiring Some pulses, like pigeon peas, are The conundrum facing policymakers less soaking time, if any, deep rooting, so they do not compete and agricultural experts today is as well. with other crops for water. Slow- figuring out how to produce sufficient growing in their early stages, they food for a growing population without An added advantage to enable nearby crops to take root further degrading natural resources nutrition and health via pulse and flourish. In this way, pulses and aggravating the effects of climate consumption is that pulses play their part in combating soil change. Agricultural policies cannot be are a source of protein that erosion and depletion. Pulses do not developed in isolation but need to be does not contain residues require nitrogen fertilizer as it fixes harmonised and drafted in conjunction of hormones or antibiotics its own – basically, taking it from the with social and economic policies. typically used in livestock atmosphere and carrying it into the Farmers, pastoralists, fishermen and production (and consumed soil. This self-sufficiency saves the consumers need to be at the centre of unwittingly in beef and environment from greenhouse gases, policy discourse, so that together, we milk, for example) that can a by-product of the manufacture may eradicate hunger and improve undermine one’s health. and use of nitrogen fertilizers. livelihoods worldwide.

39 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

4. Biodiversity Not only does � build up nitrogen even development of those organisms pulse cultivation faster; fixing as much as primarily responsible for mitigate the effects 300 kg of nitrogen per hectare. promoting soil structure and of climate change, but their Pulses also release hydrogen gas into nutrient availability. High soil unique attribute, namely their ability the soil – up to 5 000 litres per ha/ biodiversity provides ecosystems to biologically fix nitrogen, also has day – exerting yet another positive not only with greater resistance a direct and positive impact on soil impact on soil biology. and resilience against disturbance biodiversity. When planted, soil and stress, but also with the ability microbes such as bacteria Rhizobium Additionally, crop residues from of ecosystems to suppress diseases. and Bradyrhizobium, are activated and pulses can be used as animal fodder Each of these features favouring boost soil fertility. Rhizobium infects to increase nitrogen concentration in the mainstreaming of soil health, the root hairs of the leguminous the livestock diet, thereby improving naturally comprises the very plants, thereby developing nodules animal health and growth. Even foundation of food security, thus to become small nitrogen factories after harvesting there are more promoting both individual and perched on the roots of the pulses. benefits to be reaped. Plant residues planetary health. Inside the nodules, Rhizobium sets left after pulse crops are harvested to work, converting atmospheric have a strikingly different bio- On their own, pulses are not, nitrogen to nitrogen for healthy chemical composition to other however, a panacea for on-farm soil promoting plant growth. In diversity. If a farmer switches short, pulses provide a home for the from cultivating cereal or grains bacteria within the nodule and an only, to cultivating only pulse energy supply in exchange for fixed Pulses should be an species, on-farm diversity is not nitrogen for the plant to grow in integral part of any enhanced. Ideally, pulse crops can return; or rather, food and protein agro-ecosystem due to benefit the entire system when for the pulse to grow. Through this planted as a crucial component of process, pulses can add from 30 to the immense positive multiple cropping systems; namely 40 kg of nitrogen into the soil per effects they have on intercropping, crop rotation and hectare. Some varieties of pulses the ecosystem agroforestry. These cropping systems are also able to free soil-bound favour a higher species diversity than phosphorous which also plays an monocrop systems. By increasing important role in plant nutrition. species diversity of cropping systems, crop residues, greatly contributing one sees a more efficient use of Activating soil bacteria to fix nitrogen to soil biodiversity. For all these resources, namely light, water and signifies that the plant requires reasons, pulses are ideally suited to nutrients, as well as higher outputs much less nitrogen fertilizer, if any. rural farmers but can be a model as yields are increased, and overall Producing their own fixed nitrogen for agribusiness or organic farming crop failure is diminished. Choosing in the soil, pulses contribute to everywhere. which multiple cropping system to higher yields in subsequent crop use is ultimately determined by the rotations, while at the same time Furthermore, pulses as an individual attributes of each agro- boosting soil fertility, which in turn important crop in agro-ecosystems ecosystem. What is clear is that helps decrease the carbon footprint help to maintain and increase vital pulses should be an integral part of future crops. Moreover, pulses microbial biomass and activity in of any agro-ecosystem due to the grown as green manure (or cover the soil. In this way, pulses act immense positive effects they have crops) or as forage for livestock, can as catalysts by nourishing the on the ecosystem.

40 5. Food

In many countries, meat, security that typically wipe out months of dairy and fish are expensive hard labour and ruin crops. and far beyond the reach of the local populace. It is Today, 90% of the world’s pulses come therefore not surprising to find that Pulses: for from 100 million farmers who cultivate these groups depend on cheaper them on arid lands. Seeing that pulses plant foods for their protein needs. small farmers, require less water than other crops, Pulses represent an affordable source they can be cultivated in climes with of protein and minerals and when good things limited or often erratic rainfall; lands combined with rice, cereals or pasta, come in small where other crops can fail or produce can make all the difference in staving low yields. Some pulses, such as off malnutrition and in promoting seedlings Bambara nuts, are able to grow in good health. Farmers can eat and sell the marginal areas where farmers are pulses they produce, improving unable to cultivate other crops. Pulses household food security and are also cheaper to grow as they do economic stability not need nitrogen fertilizers. Common For most populations in to many of these farmers is that they developing countries, Pulses can be used to feed are subsistence farmers, meaning that pulses constitute livestock pulses are usually grown to be eaten the major source of Pulses have a long shelf life by the farmer, with only a small part protein, where meat when stored properly, allowing destined for sale at market. When flexibility to counter extreme pulses are grown alongside other is unavailable weather conditions crops or in rotation, farmers typically or too expensive. enjoy higher yields of pulses and other Pulses are an excellent cover crops. By so doing, farmers also reduce crop, used as green manure for their vulnerability to crop failure. sustainable farming or as forage for Beans, for example, can command Waste not, want not livestock up to four times the price of wheat Incredibly, food waste is another Farming costs are reduced at markets, giving the farmer some side of the same coin, particularly due to reduced necessity for additional food security. when addressing food security mineral fertilizers globally. Losses and wastage occur Today, there is an alarming trend throughout the entire agricultural Beans typically fetch four in developing countries that could supply chain, and in nations both times the price at market than some put all these advantages asunder. rich and poor. Experts estimate that cereals As incomes increase, pulses are as much as one-third of the food discarded in favour of meats seeing produced for human consumption that pulses are considered a ‘poor worldwide is lost or wasted. But their nutritional value. Therefore, the man’s protein’ in some cultures. This bring the multi-tasking pulses into proportion of food waste or spoilage shift in consumer preferences is giving the picture, and the travesty of food of pulses prior to meal preparation rise to a host of global concerns, not waste simply is no more. Pulses are is very low. This feature alone can least environmental. Given all that we shelf stable, meaning that once stored be enough to see rural farming know about the power of the pulse, in airtight containers, they can last communities through unexpected it’s in everyone’s best interest to keep months, years even, without losing calamities such as droughts or floods them in our lives and on the menu.

41 Part How are pulses grown?� FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Growing your garden patchANCIENT of pulses TRADITIONAL� FLAVOURS

Observing first-hand how at herbalist shops. Starting with our seeds – these should be about three vegetables grow in your three reference pulses (Beans, Lentils, cm deep and about 20 cm apart. Plant very own garden patch can Chickpeas), you would need about 50 g the seedlings in each of these holes, be both fun and instructive. of each for your garden to generate one furrow for each type: Chickpeas, Once you have harvested them quite satisfactory crops. Lentils, Beans. from the vines, you will be able to experience the richness of ancient Legumes are not picky about the Because pulses naturally can take flavours in modern times. quality of the earth as they can nitrogen out of the air and fix it into grow in dry conditions, although the earth unlike other plants, they But first, a caveat: home-grown pulses they prefer moderate wetlands are quite self-sufficient in terms will not work for city dwellers, or at preferably with a silt-clay component. of providing for their own natural least those with only a terrace. This It is important to make sure the soil fertilization. They can live off the is because the pots or planters have a does not contain gypsum because it richness of the organic matter very limited depth of soil, preventing detracts from the quality of the crop. from the compost, and require no the full development of the roots So, making sure that your garden additional fertilizers nor special care. necessary to grow legumes properly. offers a sunny spot on porous, damp Simply water them twice a week in soil that gets well-drained and is very hot weather or when the soil is So, you must first start off with a protected from the wind, and you are very dry, making sure to weed around small garden patch. When organising ready to plant your seeds. the plant if you find weeds sprouting. it, go for at least 5x2 meters, to mimic the very experience and sensations Planting should take place at the After about two weeks, the pulses will lived out by a subsistence farmer beginning of the warm season start to sprout. After one month, their of pulses. In your tiny patch of our (around May in the northern shoots will open as well. At this point, planet, you will be paying a tribute hemisphere or November in the it is recommended to plant a stake to the most generous and competent southern hemisphere). First, prepare about 1 metre tall next to each pulse plants for human consumption. You the soil by covering it with compost shoot. The chickpeas and lentils will will nurture an appreciation for its (fresh or dried crushed leaves, wood begin to grow up upon it. Use a higher exceptional quality to thrive without ash, slightly decomposed fruit scraps, trellis for the beans to climb upon. requiring great care. And once you leftover food, but no meats, detritus have reaped its bounty, you will be and never with chemical fertilizers If you find that a plant is not growing able to store your seeds for more than or manure). Next, carve three long well, it may be for a number of a year, living off its nutrition long furrows lengthwise across the reasons: it was planted too deep, or after the seeds have come to light. garden, leaving a distance of about the seed was dehydrated because the 40 cm between each furrow. soil was too compact or the garden Bean seeds or beans themselves come patch was over-watered. in many different shapes and colours. Take your seedlings, making sure The same is true for lentils and they are well-watered (for about Pulses take three months to develop chickpeas. They are available in many one hour) prior to planting. You will fully. Beans, chickpeas and lentils varieties and can be found in organic use one type for each furrow dug out. are harvested just as their pods start stores or seed stores for farming, or Make tiny holes in which to bury the to open. This, or once you see the

44 yellowing of their leaves, means it is and dry place for a few days making expect a yield of about one and a the right time to harvest. sure the humidity does not exceed half kilos of dried pulses. This is an 15 percent. excellent output. Cut the plants at the base of the stalk. Spread them out in the sun Once fully dried, your pulses are By planting and producing your and leave to dry. The pods are ready to be eaten or stored in air- very own pulse garden patch, you ready for threshing. This is done by tight containers. You can use your pay homage to our ancestors who winnowing (or prying open) the dry pulses in soups, stews, and many domesticated these ancient varieties pods, separating out the tiny grains more tasty dishes – a rich reward for and who left us pulses for posterity of lentils, chickpeas and beans. your work! Out of the 20 seedlings – so many centuries later – to still be Leave the seeds in a well-ventilated planted in each furrow, you should enjoyed today.

45 Pulses in the World 10 benefits 1 PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL The world has seen an increase of 20% in production during the years 1990 to 2013. In 2014, total production of pulses was 72.2 million tons. 3 2 5 Etiopía Rusia China I R F F 40% FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES 1 2 6 60% 40% Canadá PULSES UNIQUE PULSES ARE NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES GOOD NEWS FOR KEEP YOU HEALTHY POOR FARMERS 5 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar 6.2 million tonne 3rd 2nd T 6.3 million tonnes 70% 2 Estados Unidos 3 4 E PULSES ARE EXCELLENTCultivation PULSES NEED LESS 3 VALUE FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW 3 Australia Brasil 2 20 2 million hectares El 98% Nigeria India N 19.27 million tonnes I I 8% around the world 32 million wheat is 56% and tonnes 2 barley 20% 1.69 billion T 5 6 3.5%/year � PORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN POR REGIONES 2013 Pulses in the WorldPULSES ARE ‘CLEAN’ PULSES NEED 10 benefits ETE E 1AIA OEANA 7,168 CROPS: THEY DO NOT LESS FERTILIZERS ASIA ÁFRICA AMÉRICA OCEANÍA DozensEMIT of GREEN plant HOUSE TO GROW Their cultivation was 46% 21,1% 20,7% 3,7% peaPRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL species,GASES hundreds further improved lentilThe world has seen an increase of 20% in production EUROPA during the years 1990 to 2013. In 2014, total of varieties Nine Benefits of Pulses upon later, when chickpea 8,3% production of pulses was 72.2 million tons. 3 2 5 dry bean and places to they were grown in 3 4 Etiopía Rusia China � faba bean I R Fgrow F them, 40% the humid climes of PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL cowpea 1 2 7 advancing any 60% 8 South America. For TOTAL DE LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 6 40% (millones de toneladas) Canadá generalizations PULSEStheir UNIQUE part, chickpeas PULSES ARE AIA OIENTAL 2,887.2 ETE AITIO 26,738.7 PULSES CAN HELP OTHER about pulse PULSES HAVE A NUTRITIOUSand lentils QUALITIES originated GOOD NEWS FOR CROPS TO GROW LONG SELF LIFE KEEP YOU HEALTHY POOR FARMERS pea pea cultivation can 5 in regions with more lentil lentil 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar 6.2 million tonne prove to be quite extreme temperatures chickpea chickpea 3rd 59 The 2nd and less fertile soils, 1990 dry bean dry bean problematic. T faba bean faba bean Fabaceae family has an like the Middle East. cowpea cowpea extraordinary ability 6.3 million tonnes 70% 1 2 Similarly, some 2 to adapt to different9 10 African and Asian EROA 5,526.3 ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4Estados Unidos 3 4 E Keep you climates and terrain. Boast a long wetlands favoured pea pea PULSES CAN PULSES = ZERO PULSES ARE healthyEXCELLENT PULSES NEED LESS It is found growing 3 the appearance and 78 lentil lentil FERTILIZATE shelfW ASTElife VALUE FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW THE SOILS Australia 2014 chickpea chickpea 3 equally in mountain FAO recommends that development of other Brasil 2 20 2 million hectares dry bean dry bean ranges and coastal When stored in bean varieties of the El 98% Nigeria India people eat at least faba bean faba bean N 19.27 million airtight containers, towns; from the tropics 400g of fruit and genus Vigna, like tonnes I cowpea cowpea I 8% and into 32 million the desert. pulses can last cowpeas, while in wheat is 56% and vegetables per day, tonnes 2 Given the remarkable barley 20% months, even years, more hostile regions, 1.69 billion T which includes pulses 5 6 PORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN POR REGIONES geographical 3.5%/year range of without spoiling. For and other legumes. underground pulses 2013 these wonder plants, it subsistence farmers, This is equivalent to PULSESlike ARE the ‘CLEAN’ groundnut PULSES NEED ETE E AIA OEANA 7,168 CROPS: THEY DO NOT LESS FERTILIZERS ASIA ÁFRICA AMÉRICA this could mean the emerged. OCEANÍAis hard to find literally eating about 25g of EMIT GREEN HOUSE TO GROW 46% 21,1% 20,7% 3,7%a common ground.pea But difference between dietary fibre per day. GASES lentil EUROPA what we do know, is life or death should As pulses are high in The domestication 8,3% they all bringchickpea a terrific they suffer a bad of these plants dry bean dietary fibre, they can 3 4 source of nutritionalfaba bean harvest or natural help prevent obesity, also occurred PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL value to the table.cowpea disaster (like floods) reduce blood pressure heterogeneously, TOTAL DE LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 7 8 (millones de toneladas) Beans of the genus that wipes out their and reduce the risk of producing a wide AIA OIENTAL 2,887.2 PhaseolusETE AITIO, for example, 26,738.7 entire harvest. PULSES CANheart HELP OTHER disease. variety of scenarios PULSES HAVE A CROPS TO GROW LONG SELF LIFE pea emergedpea in Central all across the globe. lentil Americalentil due to a In Central America, 59 chickpea highlychickpea favourable we know that bean dry bean dry bean 1990 terrain and climate. growing came into faba bean faba bean cowpea cowpea 9 10 EROA 5,526.3 ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4 46 pea pea PULSES CAN PULSES = ZERO 78 lentil lentil FERTILIZATE WASTE THE SOILS 2014 chickpea chickpea dry bean dry bean faba bean faba bean cowpea cowpea Pulses in the World 10 benefits 1 PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL The world has seen an increase of 20% in production during the years 1990 to 2013. In 2014, total production of pulses was 72.2 million tons. 3 2 5 Etiopía Rusia China I R F F 40% 1 2 6 60% 40% Canadá PULSES UNIQUE PULSES ARE NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES GOOD NEWS FOR KEEP YOU HEALTHY POOR FARMERS 5 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar 6.2 million tonne 3rd 2nd T 6.3 million tonnes 70% 2 Estados Unidos 3 4 E PULSES ARE EXCELLENT PULSES NEED LESS 3 VALUE FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW 3 Australia Brasil 2 20 2 million hectares El 98% Nigeria India N 19.27 million tonnes I I 8% 32 million wheat is 56% and tonnes 2 barley 20% 1.69 billion T 5 6 PORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN POR REGIONES 3.5%/year 2013 PULSES ARE ‘CLEAN’ PULSES NEED ETE E AIA OEANA 7,168 CROPS: THEY DO NOT LESS FERTILIZERS ASIA ÁFRICA AMÉRICA OCEANÍA EMIT GREEN HOUSE TO GROW 46% 21,1% 20,7% 3,7% pea GASES lentil EUROPA 8,3% chickpea dry bean 3 4 faba bean PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL cowpeabeing very early on in Aside from the obvious TOTAL DE LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 7 8 (millones de toneladas) sidestep with maize nutritional benefits AIA OIENTAL 2,887.2 ETE AITIO cultivation.26,738.7 The pulse’s PULSES CAN HELP OTHER that vast civilisations PULSES HAVE A CROPS TO GROW LONG SELF LIFE pea pea ancient climbing plant have obtained by lentil lentil found that cereal combining pulse and 59 chickpea chickpea stems made for ideal cereal crops in one 1990 dry bean dry bean faba bean faba bean stakes, and the two way or another, one of cowpea cowpea crops entered into a 3 4 the great virtues from genuine symbiosis. 9 an agricultural10 point EROA 5,526.3 ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4 Good news Help other As previously noted, for poor crops of view of most of the pea pea in fact, pulses are PULSES CAN plantsPULSES in =the ZERO Fabaceae 78 lentil lentil FERTILIZATE WASTE highly beneficial to farmers toTHE growSOILS family, is their natural 2014 chickpea chickpea dry bean dry bean the earth used for Growing pulses can Pulses’ nitrogen nitrogen-fixation Pulses in the World faba10 bean benefitsfaba bean maize cultivation. mean a variety of fixing qualities properties. They take cowpea cowpea 1 Later on, with the benefits for poor mean that crops from the atmosphere arrival of mechanised farmers. Pulses grown planted alongside and put it directly in PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL agriculture, it became with other crops pulses reap the the ground – creating The world has seen an increase of 20% in production convenient to develop a unique synergy during the years 1990 to 2013. In 2014, total or in rotation will benefits and grow production of pulses was 72.2 million tons. 3 2 5 low bean plants, rather fertilize the soil, and faster. Pulses for fertilisation and Etiopía Rusia China than climbers. In the can increase yields are also deep growth. This process I R F F 40% less fertile regions on less productive rooting, which occurs thanks to the 1 2 of Africa and Asia, farmlands. Some means they do relationship between 6 60% 40% however, certain pulses, such as not compete the roots and rhizobia, Canadá PULSES UNIQUE PULSES ARE pulses were introduced beans, fetch more with other crops a kind of symbiotic NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES GOOD NEWS FOR KEEP YOU HEALTHY POOR FARMERS as rotation crops, at the market than for water. This bacterium. Add to this 5 with some land only some cereals giving makes them ideal the rich phosphorous 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar becoming productive poor farmers a better companions. that leguminous plants 6.2 million tonne 3rd after leguminous crops contribute to enrich the chance at ending the 2nd were grown there. poverty cycle. soil. These surprising T With pulses grown self-sufficient 6.3 million tonnes 70% side by side with “abilities” of pulses 2 other crops, farmers mean that zero or Estados Unidos 3 were able to extend4 minimal chemical E their productivity and additives are needed to PULSES ARE EXCELLENT product offering.PULSES NEED LESS grow them; translating 3 VALUE FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW 3 Australia Brasil 2 20 2 million hectares El 98% Nigeria India N 19.27 million tonnes I I 8% Cost less to grow 32 million wheat is 56% and tonnes 2 barley 20% Plants need nitrogen fertilizers to grow. Pulses can 1.69 billion T 5 6 fix their own nitrogen in the soil, which means they PORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN POR REGIONES 3.5%/year nourish the soil instead of depleting it. This means 2013 PULSES ARE ‘CLEAN’ PULSES NEED farmers don’t have to buy nitrogen fertilizers, which in ETE E AIA OEANA 7,168 CROPS: THEY DO NOT LESS FERTILIZERS ASIA ÁFRICA AMÉRICA 5 OCEANÍA EMIT GREEN HOUSE TO GROW poor areas is a substantial cost savings for the farmer. 46% 21,1% 20,7% 3,7% pea GASES lentil EUROPA 8,3% chickpea dry bean 3 4 faba bean PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL cowpea 7 8 TOTAL DE LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 47 (millones de toneladas) AIA OIENTAL 2,887.2 ETE AITIO 26,738.7 PULSES CAN HELP OTHER PULSES HAVE A CROPS TO GROW LONG SELF LIFE pea pea lentil lentil 59 chickpea chickpea 1990 dry bean dry bean faba bean faba bean cowpea cowpea 9 10 EROA 5,526.3 ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4 pea pea PULSES CAN PULSES = ZERO 78 lentil lentil FERTILIZATE WASTE THE SOILS 2014 chickpea chickpea dry bean dry bean faba bean faba bean cowpea cowpea Pulses in the World 10 benefits 1 PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL The world has seen an increase of 20% in production Pulses duringin the years 1990the to 2013. In 2014,W total orld 10 benefits 1 production of pulses was 72.2 million tons. 3 2 5 Etiopía Rusia China PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL I R F F 40% The world has seen an increase of 20% in production 1 2 during the years 1990 to 2013. In 2014, total 6 60% 40% production of pulses was 72.2 million tons. 3 Canadá 2 5 PULSES UNIQUE PULSES ARE Etiopía Rusia China NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES GOOD NEWS FOR I R F F 40% KEEP YOU HEALTHY POOR FARMERS 5 1 2 60% 6 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar 6.2 million tonne 40% Canadá 3rd PULSES UNIQUE PULSES ARE 2nd NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES GOOD NEWS FOR T KEEP YOU HEALTHY POOR FARMERS 5 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar FAO 6.3 INTERNATIONAL million tonnes 70% YEAR OF PULSES 6.2 million tonne 2 3rd Estados Unidos 2nd 3 4 E T PULSES ARE EXCELLENT PULSES NEED LESS 6.3 million tonnes 70% 3 VALUE FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW 2 Australia Estados Unidos 3 3 4 Brasil 2 20 2 million hectares E El 98% Nigeria India Cultivation around the world N 19.27 million PULSES ARE EXCELLENT PULSES NEED LESS 3 tonnes I VALUE FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW I � 8% Australia 32 million 3 wheat is 56% and 2 million hectares tonnes Brasil 22 20 barley 20% 1.69 billion T El 98% Nigeria India 5 6 3.5%/year NPORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN 19.27 PORmillion REGIONES 2013 tonnes I I 8% PULSES ARE ‘CLEAN’ PULSES NEED 32 million ‘Clean’ crops: wheat is 56% and ETE E AIA OEANA 7,168 CROPS: THEY DO NOT LESS FERTILIZERS ASIAtonnes ÁFRICA AMÉRICA 2 barley 20% OCEANÍA do not emit greenhouse EMITgases GREEN HOUSE TO GROW 1.69 billion T 5 6 46% 21,1% 20,7% 3,7% pea GASES PORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN POR REGIONES 3.5%/year lentil In stark contrast to animal products, pulses 2013 EUROPA PULSES ARE ‘CLEAN’ PULSES NEED chickpea ETE E AIA OEANA8,3% 7,168 CROPS:have THEY been DO NOT shown to emitLESS FERTILIZERS hardly any greenhouse gases (lentils ASIA ÁFRICA AMÉRICA OCEANÍA dry bean 3 4 EMITemit GREEN 0.9%). HOUSE Cultivating andTO eating GROW more pulses would bring 46% 21,1% 20,7% 3,7% pea faba bean GASES PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓNlentil MUNDIAL cowpea huge benefits to the environment. TOTAL DEEUROPA LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 7 8 (millones 8,3%de toneladas) chickpea dry bean 3 4 AIA OIENTAL 2,887.2 ETE AITIO 26,738.7 PULSES CAN HELP OTHER PULSES HAVE A faba bean 6 CROPS TO GROW LONG SELF LIFE pea pea PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL cowpea 7 8 TOTAL DE LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 lentil lentil (millones de toneladas) chickpea chickpea AIA OIENTAL 2,887.259 ETE AITIO 26,738.7 intoPULSES dietary, CAN HELP economic OTHER PULSES HAVE A 1990 dry bean dry bean and environmentalCROPS TO GROW LONG SELFbut LIFE also improved pea peafaba bean faba bean lentil lentil cowpea cowpea benefits. soils and fostered a chickpea chickpea 9 more competitive10 and 59 EROA 5,526.3 ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4 1990 dry bean dry bean Pulses’ low water sustainable trade in faba bean faba bean pea pea consumption is PULSES CAN the process.PULSES = ZERO cowpea cowpea 78 lentil lentil FERTILIZATE WASTE also significant. On THE SOILS 2014 chickpea chickpea 9 10 EROA 5,526.3 ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4 average, pulses require The fact that global dry bean dry bean pea peafaba bean faba bean twenty times less water PULSES CAN PULSES = ZERO fluctuations in cereal 78 lentil lentil cowpea cowpea than any source of FERTILIZATE WASTE prices, which vary THE SOILS 2014 chickpea chickpea animal protein, and 7 more drastically from dry bean dry bean generally far less than Help fertilize soil season to season, faba bean faba bean cowpea cowpea other crops. This is While other crops deplete the terrain in which and that pulse prices because their plants they grow, pulses actually do the opposite. tend to remain more capture moisture Grown as green manure or cover crops or as stable over time, have from surface sources. forage for livestock, pulses can build up nitrogen led many regions to These extraordinary in the soil even faster; fixing as much as 300 kg adopt agricultural biological of nitrogen per hectare. Pulses also release programmes favouring characteristics hydrogen gas into the soil – up to 5 000 litres pulses, as far as their were observed in per hectare per day, exerting yet another positive capabilities would agricultural research impact on soil biology. allow. Australia, over a hundred years Brazil, Spain, India ago, but there is no and Nigeria, to name doubt that, on an just a few notable intuitive level, farmers examples from each have been aware of have changed the diversification of continent, now have them for thousands of pulse map globally. In agricultural risk; powerful pulse- years, since the dawn Canada, for instance, adopting an important growing industries that of the agricultural an unexpected rise rotation farming model deliver considerable revolution itself. in wheat prices was based on the trinity dietary, economic the catalyst of a surge of wheat, barley and and social benefits In more recent times, in pulse production. pulses. This not only both domestically and economic factors This led to a rational stabilised the situation, through foreign trade.

48 Pulses in the World 10 benefits 1 PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL The world has seen an increase of 20% in production during the years 1990 to 2013. In 2014, total production of pulses was 72.2 million tons. 3 2 5 Etiopía Rusia China I R F F 40% 1 2 6 60% 40% Canadá PULSES UNIQUE PULSES ARE NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES GOOD NEWS FOR KEEP YOU HEALTHY POOR FARMERS 5 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar 6.2 million tonne 3rd 2nd T 6.3 million tonnes 70% 2 Estados Unidos 3 4 E PULSES ARE EXCELLENT PULSES NEED LESS 3 VALUE FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW 3 Australia Brasil 2 20 2 million hectares El 98% Nigeria India N 19.27 million Furthermore, tremendous benefits. quantities, they are suffering chronic tonnes I I 8% 32 million these plants boast Although the benefits highly affordable. hunger, pulses may be wheat is 56% and tonnes 2 barley 20% an agricultural may vary from place the answer. Thanks 1.69 billion T 5 6 PORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN POR REGIONES 3.5%/year efficiency – offering to place and pulse to With humanity facing to their versatility, 2013 Pulses in the World 10 benefits a tremendous sourcePULSES AREpulse, ‘CLEAN’ their growthPULSES NEED the challenge of adaptability, high yield 1 ETE E AIA OEANA 7,168 CROPS: THEY DO NOT LESS FERTILIZERS ASIA ÁFRICA AMÉRICA OCEANÍA of extremely high is important to meeting the complex and extraordinary PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL EMIT GREEN HOUSE TO GROW 46% 21,1% 20,7% pea quality plant protein,GASES humankind. nutritional needs of a nutritional properties, The world has3,7% seen an increase of 20% in production lentil EUROPAduring the years 1990 to 2013. In 2014, total far superior to that burgeoning population pulses provide a highly production of pulses was 72.2 million tons.chickpea 3 2 5 8,3% of raisingChina livestock, Once harvested, people living in a paradoxical effective solution. dry bean Etiopía Rusia 3 4 I R F F 40% faba bean which in many cases continue to reap the world in which Dried pulses mean a 1 2 PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL 6 cowpea is itself7 dependent60% benefits of the pulse. hundreds of8 millions of vital means of feeding TOTAL DE LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 40% (millones de toneladas) Canadá on pulses for animal Their quality does obese coexistPULSES withUNIQUE an the worldPULSES for AREa more NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES GOOD NEWS FOR AIA OIENTAL 2,887.2 ETE AITIO 26,738.7 PULSES CAN HELP OTHER PULSES HAVE A fodder. Regardless of not deteriorate after even greaterKEEP YOUnumber HEALTHY vibrantPOOR future FARMERS for all. CROPS TO GROW LONG SELF LIFE pea pea the value5 of animal being dried and with 1,000,000 tonnes Myanmar lentil 6.2 million tonne lentil protein in the human proper storage their 3rd 59 chickpea chickpea diet, 2nd it is indisputable nutritional properties 1990 dry bean dry bean T that livestock farming are maintained for a faba bean faba bean inherently 6.3 million tonnes has a higher 70% very long time. This cowpea 2 cowpea Estados Unidos energy cost than crop 9 probably makes them 103 4 EROA 5,526.3 E ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4 cultivation. Seen the most durable PULSES ARE EXCELLENT PULSES NEED LESS pea pea PULSES CAN PULSES = ZERO objectively,3 pulses, product for theVALUE larder FOR MONEY WATER TO GROW 78 lentil lentil 3 Australia FERTILIZATE WASTE 2014 therefore, offer one THEof SOILS without freezing, chickpea chickpea Brasil 2 20 2 million hectares the best cost-benefit above even many dry bean dry bean El 98% Nigeria India N 19.27 million faba bean faba bean ratios of any food on canned goods. And at tonnes I I 8% cowpea cowpea 32 million the planet. the same time, with wheat is 56% and tonnes 2 barley 20% 8 9 1.69 billion T the exception of some 5 6 PORCENTAJE DE PRODUCCIÓN POR REGIONES 3.5%/year As a crop, clearly regional varieties 2013 Pulses Need less water pulses provide produced only in small PULSES ARE ‘CLEAN’ PULSES NEED ETE E AIA OEANA 7,168 CROPS: THEY DO NOT LESS FERTILIZERS ASIA ÁFRICA AMÉRICA = to grow OCEANÍA EMIT GREEN HOUSE TO GROW 46% 21,1% 20,7% 3,7% pea GASESZero 70% of the world’s lentil EUROPA Waste accessible fresh water 8,3% chickpea dry bean is used for agriculture. 3 4 Every part of faba bean 27% of the world’s the pulse can PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL PRODUCCIÓN MUNDIAL cowpea water footprint comes TOTAL DE LEGUMBRES DE LAS PRINCIPALES LEGUMBRES 2013 7 be used. The 8 (millones de toneladas) from the consumption pods can feed AIA OIENTAL 2,887.2 ETE AITIO 26,738.7 PULSES CAN HELP OTHER of animal products. PULSES HAVE A CROPS TO GROW people, the LONG SELF LIFE pea pea Pulses need 20 times shoots used for lentil lentil LESS water than chickpea chickpea animal feed, or 59 animal products to 1990 dry bean dry bean the pulse can grow. In industrialised faba bean faba bean be left in the cowpea cowpea countries, moving earth to provide 9 towards a10 vegetarian EROA 5,526.3 ARIA EL NORTE 8,750.4 nourishment for diet can reduce our the soil. pea pea PULSES CAN food-relatedPULSES = ZERO water 78 lentil lentil FERTILIZATE WASTE THE SOILS footprint by a full 36%. 2014 chickpea chickpea dry bean dry bean faba bean faba bean cowpea cowpea

49 Africa FAO AÑO INTERNACIONAL DE LAS LEGUMBRES is grown commercially in almost 100 with production Oceania 3.5 3.6 concentrated in Canada, Russia and China. Jointly, these three countries produce over one-half of the world’s dry peas. Canadian dried pea production increased considerably over the past 30 years, expanding from less than 1.57 per year in the early 1980s to Asia 1 approximately 3 in 2012, or 12 percent per year. 18.4 World dried pea production peaked in 1990 at 16.6 . Since 1990, global dry pea production declined at an average annual Europe percentage rate of 1.8 and, in 2012, was approximately 47.9 9.9 .

is the most prominent pulse found in diets around the Americas Americas world. It provides protein, complex carbohydrates, and valuable 26.6 35 Oceania micronutrients for 4 of the global population. In 5.4 many parts of the world, the bean is the second most important Asia source of calories after maize. A vast number of people in Africa 44.6 sub-Saharan Africa depend on the crop as a primary staple, 28.4 which is cultivated largely by women. or , also called , eld bean, Europe horse bean and bell bean, is an erect leafy winter or summer 14.7 Africa annual. Faba bean is used as human food in developing countries, 17.7 and as animal feed (mainly for pigs, horses, poultry and pigeons). Faba bean is grown on 2.5 ha of land globally, with Oceania Europe Central and East Asia contributing 39 and Sub-Saharan Africa Americas 0.2 2.6 about 21 of the total area under faba bean cultivation. Asia 4.2 47.3 is a highly nutritious grain legume crop and is one of Oceania Africa 3.4 Europe Africa the cheapest sources of protein. Most production of chickpeas Oceania 3 Europe (95) takes place in developing countries with 84.3 4.3 0.9 3.9 1.3 from Asia. As of 2010, chickpeas were grown on about 12 which represents an increase is relatively tolerant to areas subject to drought and is grown in output over the past 30 years from 4.8 throughout the world. The crop has great signi cance in cereal-based to 11.1 . South Asia cultivation accounts Americas cropping systems because of its nitrogen- xing ability, its high protein for more than 71 of the world chickpea by area. 4.1 Americas seeds for human consumption and its straw for animal feed. Protein content 31.4 India is the largest producer of chickpeas accounting for 67 ranges from 22 35, and like other grain legumes its amino acid Asia of global production in 2013. This is 10 times the amount pro le is complementary to that of cereals. World production has of the second largest producer, Australia. Over the period 60.4 increased by almost 92 in the past 20 years. 1978–1980 to 2008–2010, India increased its land area dedicated to chickpeas marginally from 7.6 Asia to 7.9 , while production increased by a full 87.2 40 (from 4.8 to 6.8 ). Other important chickpea producing countries are Pakistan, Turkey, Mexico, Canada and Australia.

2 3 78 (million tonnes) Average 1993 – 2013 (Thousand tonnes)

90 PEA LENIL CICKPEA EAN FAA EAN 80 70 7.7 North America 5 323 45 156 503 589 6 616 60 59 390 103 391 3 470 1 137 5 491 50 3.4 Africa 40 30 2 050 2 076 7 889 8 762 1 892 22 669 1.8 South America 20 4 669 1 079 371 6 870 168 13 157 10 0 1.1 Asia 340 135 309 46 218 1 048 3.44 Europe 2012 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2013 2014 12 772 3 438 9 116 19 651 4 004 48 981

Africa is grown commercially in almost 100 with production Oceania 3.5 3.6 concentrated in Canada, Russia and China. Jointly, these three countries produce over one-half of the world’s dry peas. Canadian dried pea production increased considerably over the past 30 years, expanding from less than 1.57 per year in the early 1980s to Asia 1 approximately 3 in 2012, or 12 percent per year. 18.4 World dried pea production peaked in 1990 at 16.6 . Since 1990, global dry pea production declined at an average annual Europe percentage rate of 1.8 and, in 2012, was approximately 47.9 9.9 .

is the most prominent pulse found in diets around the Americas Americas world. It provides protein, complex carbohydrates, and valuable 26.6 35 Oceania micronutrients for 4 of the global population. In 5.4 many parts of the world, the bean is the second most important Asia source of calories after maize. A vast number of people in Africa 44.6 sub-Saharan Africa depend on the crop as a primary staple, 28.4 which is cultivated largely by women. or , also called , eld bean, Europe horse bean and bell bean, is an erect leafy winter or summer 14.7 Africa annual. Faba bean is used as human food in developing countries, 17.7 and as animal feed (mainly for pigs, horses, poultry and pigeons). Faba bean is grown on 2.5 ha of land globally, with Oceania Europe Central and East Asia contributing 39 and Sub-Saharan Africa Americas 0.2 2.6 about 21 of the total area under faba bean cultivation. Asia 4.2 47.3 is a highly nutritious grain legume crop and is one of Oceania Africa 3.4 Europe Africa the cheapest sources of protein. Most production of chickpeas Oceania 3 Europe (95) takes place in developing countries with 84.3 4.3 0.9 3.9 1.3 from Asia. As of 2010, chickpeas were grown on about 12 which represents an increase is relatively tolerant to areas subject to drought and is grown in output over the past 30 years from 4.8 throughout the world. The crop has great signi cance in cereal-based to 11.1 . South Asia cultivation accounts Americas cropping systems because of its nitrogen- xing ability, its high protein for more than 71 of the world chickpea by area. 4.1 Americas seeds for human consumption and its straw for animal feed. Protein content 31.4 India is the largest producer of chickpeas accounting for 67 ranges from 22 35, and like other grain legumes its amino acid Asia of global production in 2013. This is 10 times the amount pro le is complementary to that of cereals. World production has of the second largest producer, Australia. Over the period 60.4 increased by almost 92 in the past 20 years. 1978–1980 to 2008–2010, India increased its land area dedicated to chickpeas marginally from 7.6 Asia to 7.9 , while production increased by a full 87.2 40 (from 4.8 to 6.8 ). Other important chickpea producing countries are Pakistan, Turkey, Mexico, Canada and Australia.

2 3 78 (million tonnes) Average 1993 – 2013 (Thousand tonnes)

90 PEA LENIL CICKPEA EAN FAA EAN 80 70 7.7 North America 5 323 45 156 503 589 6 616 60 59 390 103 391 3 470 1 137 5 491 50 3.4 Africa 40 30 2 050 2 076 7 889 8 762 1 892 22 669 1.8 South America 20 4 669 1 079 371 6 870 168 13 157 10 0 1.1 Asia 340 135 309 46 218 1 048 3.44 Europe 2012 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2013 2014 12 772 3 438 9 116 19 651 4 004 48 981

FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES The Russian Federation, In 2014, Turkey was the accounted for 36 of the China produces fourth global producer of world’s production 37 of global production lentils and sixth worldwide of vetches in 2005. of broad beans. producer of chickpeas.

The world has seen an increase of 31% in production during the years 1990 to 2014. In 2014, total production of pulses was 77.6 million tons.

Canadian production of the major pulses (dry peas, lentils, beans and chickpeas) increased from about 586.6 in the early 1990s to 5.8 in 2014; more than a tenfold increase in 25 years.

Myanmar is the third global producer 55 of US pulses of pulses. Pulses is the second most are dry beans. 98 of production important crop grown in the country, is of different after rice. The country doubled its varieties of production of pulses in the last dry beans. 10 years to 5 in 2014, 63 of its production is THE 5 COUNTRIES dry beans used for domestic consumption.

Produce World leader in production: 1 50 Today research investment of world production 20 of to develop better strains of in 2013. pulses in 2014. Pulses are seeds of pulses hovers at In 1961, 64 one of the most important 175 , paling in grew pulses. sources of protein, especially comparison with the billions This gure has increased for a large part of the of dollars invested in other to almost 86 population who are crops such as maize. 2014. vegetarian.

Nigeria is the top producer of dry cowpeas. . 25 20 20 2 are planted annually to pulse 15 crops across the country, which are the third largest 10 Ethiopia is the 5.8 world’s top producer crop grown after wheat and 4.9 4.5 3.3 3.0 2.6 8 5 of vetches. barley. Pulses represent 2.4 2.3 2.2 of the total crops area 0 harvested (wheat is 56 India Canada Myanmar China Brazil Australia Ethiopia USA Russia Nigeria and barley 20).

The Russian Federation, In 2014, Turkey was the accounted for 36 of the China produces fourth global producer of world’s production 37 of global production lentils and sixth worldwide of vetches in 2005. of broad beans. producer of chickpeas.

The world has seen an increase of 31% in production during the years 1990 to 2014. In 2014, total production of pulses was 77.6 million tons.

Canadian production of the major pulses (dry peas, lentils, beans and chickpeas) increased from about 586.6 in the early 1990s to 5.8 in 2014; more than a tenfold increase in 25 years.

Myanmar is the third global producer 55 of US pulses of pulses. Pulses is the second most are dry beans. 98 of production important crop grown in the country, is of different after rice. The country doubled its varieties of production of pulses in the last dry beans. 10 years to 5 in 2014, 63 of its production is THE 5 COUNTRIES dry beans used for domestic consumption.

Produce World leader in production: 1 50 Today research investment of world production 20 of to develop better strains of in 2013. pulses in 2014. Pulses are seeds of pulses hovers at In 1961, 64 one of the most important 175 , paling in grew pulses. sources of protein, especially comparison with the billions This gure has increased for a large part of the of dollars invested in other to almost 86 population who are crops such as maize. 2014. vegetarian.

Nigeria is the top producer of dry cowpeas. . 25 20 20 2 are planted annually to pulse 15 crops across the country, which are the third largest 10 Ethiopia is the 5.8 world’s top producer crop grown after wheat and 4.9 4.5 3.3 3.0 2.6 8 5 of vetches. barley. Pulses represent 2.4 2.3 2.2 of the total crops area 0 harvested (wheat is 56 India Canada Myanmar China Brazil Australia Ethiopia USA Russia Nigeria and barley 20).

FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES I

8

1/ India 3 800 859

2/ China 1 106 176 6/ United Arab Emirates 391 069

7/ Brazil 373 729 3/ Bangladesh 816 850

8/ USA 360 838

4/ Pakistan 433 998 9/ Turkey 335 896

5/ Egypt 433 395 10/ Italy 296 039

C ANAA ATRALIA YANAR P C O P L INIA INA ANLAE P L

R I

8

1/ India 3 800 859

2/ China 1 106 176 6/ United Arab Emirates 391 069

7/ Brazil 373 729 3/ Bangladesh 816 850

8/ USA 360 838

4/ Pakistan 433 998 9/ Turkey 335 896

5/ Egypt 433 395 10/ Italy 296 039

C ANAA ATRALIA YANAR P C O P L INIA INA ANLAE P L

R PartPartPart AAA WorldWorldWorld ofofof �� lPulses�PulsesPulses FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

01 NORTH AMERICA

2013

01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED BY TYPE OF PULSE (AVERAGE 2010 - 2014) Dried peas, lentils and, beans are the top pulses 524.35 produced in the region. 49.48

3 830 2 089 1990 1 480 288.91

2013 4 669 259

23 2 Thousand tonnes 2010-2014 PEAS LENTILS BEANS CHICKPEAS COWPEAS OTHER PULSES 3 830

1990 419 02 VALUE OF PULSES 5 381 3 035 1 493 OVER THE TOTAL OF

AGRICULTURE In these years, the 0.45%

production of pulses 1992 691

has doubled.

AVERAGE 417

0.7

3 2,5 214 2

1,5 100 119 1 38 29

0,5 5 6

0.97% Maximum value Minimum value 2010 Percentage (%)

58 North America�

THE SUPERFOOD OF THE FUTURE

Although North Alberta, Manitoba, Quebec and, America is home above all, Saskatchewan. Much of this is largely due to the important to two developed role of tinned pulses, especially countries baked beans. Baked beans are a culinary feat not only in terms of where meat and fish protein how they are preserved, but also are preferred by consumers, for how well they can travel. They these are also countries with have even achieved cultural icon exceptional farming models. status through cinema, television, The culture of pulses in Canada literature and in many art forms. and the United States is closely Just think of Andy Warhol’s linked to their extraordinary Black Bean. production processes and export trade. Canada alone exports We should also keep in mind lentils, beans and chickpeas to that these are two countries with 150 markets worldwide, with the powerful multicultural societies. main producing regions being And this cultural plurality

59 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

BOULDER, COLORADO, (USA) 1. A view of Chautauqua Park. 2. Red Lentils sit for sale in Alfalfaís Market bulk section. 3. Orca Beans. 4. Produce section in Alfalfaís Market. 5. Red Kidney Beans. 6. A view of Colorado in winter. 7. Chef Ron Pickarski shops for beans in the Alfalfaís Market. 8. Two cyclists ride towards an underpass on the six-mile long Boulder Creek Path. is naturally reflected in the food found in North American cities. Canada, for example, has seen significant immigration from countries that consume a high proportion of pulses, such as India, the birthplace of 12% of foreign residents in Canada. Meanwhile, cities like Toronto are home to 90 different nationalities. It is not surprising, then, that the world’s second largest country provides a warm hearth for food from Brazil, France, India, Iran, Italy, Mexico, Portugal, Spain and Turkey and all the flavours they bring with them from spicy tarka daal, to hearty 1 feijoãda... To this mix we can add Cajun specialities from Acadia (the old colony of New France), also found in the southern United States. Their unique cuisine is based on pulses, rice, seafood and the “holy trinity of vegetables”, namely celery, onion and peppers.

For its part, the United States offers an immense cultural variety 2 3 of foods across its territory, due to the complex history of its formation and subsequent waves of immigrants throughout each state and region. Although it comes as no surprise that major cities like Chicago, Los Angeles and New York are home to a wide range of ethnic cuisines, it is important to note that dried pulses consumption varies widely from place to place. Migration has clearly played an important role, which explains why bean soups in Idaho have their origins with Basque immigrants. Influence from the Canary Islands shows up in pulse stews 4 5

60 North America�

6

7

8

61 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES During the Great Depression, in the USA beans were called “poor man’s meat” and they saved many lives thanks to their nutritional value and low price.

In all likelihood, the first gastronomic scene in the history of cinema belongs to the filmThe Immigrant from 1917 (also called Broke). Starring Charlie Chaplin and Edna Purviance, it features a pulse as its Dried pulses leitmotiv. In the famous scene, both actors stored well. enthusiastically eat beans in a restaurant. Although according to accounts, there were so many takes until the scene was wrapped, that the actress actually fell physically ill. in Louisiana, a state known for Of course, the influx and influence its veritable creole gastronomy of Latinos in the United States The Cloud Gate public sculpture with New Orleans at its heart and cannot be ignored – and not on the AT&T Plaza in Millennium Park strongly influenced by France, because of the remarkable success in Chicago (Illinois), was designed by the Spain and Latin America. of restaurant chains based on Latin Indian-born British artist, Anish Kapoor American cuisine. Around 13% and is known, for obvious reasons, as The south’s soul food is equally of the US population is Latino, The Bean. important in the gastronomy spread across the entire country, firmament, using a host of from California to Florida and In North America, there is a dried peas. Bean soups from from Houston to New York. For significant production of hummus, the Appalachia and traditional the most part, they are of Mexican chickpea-based dish, with the product often sold together with sauces such as Midwest and northeastern dishes origin, but there are also Cubans, Argentine chimichurri or horseradish; feature dried pulses, once vital Puerto Ricans and, to a lesser innovations that stray far from the origins to old mining communities for extent, groups from Central and of the dish. their shelf life, and have left their South America. But common to mark in recipes today. And of all of their gastronomic traditions The port of Vancouver is one of course, honourable mention must are dried pulses, especially beans the main worldwide distribution go to Native Americans and their (known as frijoles). It goes without centres of dried pulses. time-old tradition of beans. They saying that the progressive growth were the original inhabitants in the Latino population has Tex-Mex food is one of the most of the Eastern Woodlands, the brought about a gradual change clearly documented culinary fusions in Great Plains and the regions of in domestic eating habits in North the whole of the continent, and chili con carne one of its most famous dishes. the Gulf of Mexico. With them, America. Pulses will continue to By 1907, it was already inextricably southerners who were most take centre stage, thanks also to linked to red kidney beans, as witnessed influenced by Central America recent recommendations regarding in Janet McKenzie’s The Boston Cooking and the Caribbean. Cornbread a healthy diet – animal proteins School Magazine of Culinary Science is common to both as well as are being replaced by foods and Domestic Economics. succotash, made from a mixture rich in vegetable proteins, of maize and beans. notably pulses.

62 Million USD 03 North PEAS. VALUE OF America � PRODUCTION 2013 Fluctuated while rising

from 1990 onwards, it MAXIMUM dipped in 2011, recovered and rose to 524.35 MINIMUM new heights in 2013. 49.48 1990-2013 Average 3 830 2 089 value 1990 1 480 288.91 Million USD

2013 4 669 259 04 MAXIMUM

PRODUCTION

OF PEAS Production 23 has increased 2 exponentially over the years. 2010-2014 3 830 THOUSAND TONNES MINIMUM THOUSAND TONNES 1990 419 5 381 3 035 1 493

0.45% 05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS 1992 691 PER TYPE OF PULSE* PER TYPE OF PULSE*

North America imports a modest Its three top crops, dried peas,

quantity of pulses every year. lentils and beans, are mainly 417 exported.

0.7

214

100 119 38 29

5 6

BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS DRIED TOTAL TOTAL DRIED LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS BEANS PEAS PEAS BEANS

0.97% 2010 THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

* Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed.

63 BOULDER, COLORADO (USA) A portrait of chef Ron Pickarski. NORTH AMERICA’S BRIGHT FUTURE OF PULSES R O N P I C K A R S K I A N D ECO-CUISINE

onald A. Pickarski has become a rising star for vegetarian chefs specialising in pulses. He combines pulses with spices and wheat flour, creating a vegetarian meat substitute, turning this into prime veggie burgers, the taste and texture of which resemble meat in the mouth. He works his magic turning Rblack beans, quinoa and sun-dried tomatoes into a delicious and healthy bread. Pickarski is deeply interested in the proteins present in pulses, since these are the most important molecules in terms of an organism’s structure. They even regulate body mass and he wants to make sure that pulses are an integral part of our diet in the future. He uses statistics sensitively and consistently, citing the figure that by 2054 the global population will The chef prepares need approximately one billion tonnes of protein, vegetables for his white bean and alternative sources such as pulses can polenta. provide one third of this amount.

65 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

But Pickarski was not always in the culinary research natural foods, develop products limelight. He cut his teeth (literally) between based on plant proteins and organize gourmet 1968 and 1993, as a monk in the Franciscan vegetarian cooking classes. He holds Certified Order of Friars Minor in Oak Brook (Illinois). Executive Chef status from the American He worked in the kitchens and began to develop Culinary Federation, and in 1994 he also specially-designed diets using the organic food founded American Natural Foods in Boston grown on site, before moving on to preach (Massachusetts), a non-profit organisation with cookery and become a nutritional consultant. His the mission to inform businesses and the public religious affiliation is rather unusual in chefs, but about vegetarianism and promote plant-based it is a source of great pride for Pickarski, and in products, key amongst which are pulses. all likelihood is at the root of the humility and honesty he shows in all of his work with food. “Pulses,” says Pickarski, “are an ancient foodstuff and perfect for human consumption. Currently living in Boulder (Colorado), Ron They are an important source of protein, they are is the Executive Chef of Eco-Cuisine Inc., the bursting with complex carbohydrates and fibre, company he founded in 1993. They provide and what’s more they’re low in fat. Only soya has consultancy services to promote healthy eating, a high fat content. I believe that pulses should

66 North America� Chef Ron Pickarski in the kitchen of the University of Colorado Boulder.

become a main course for everybody, and my philosophy regarding pulses is that they should be seen more and more as a substitute for meat.”

He has dedicated years of his life to developing a cuisine based on plant products, collecting tips for healthy eating and taking part in the International Culinary Olympics. His mission is to raise vegetarian cooking in general, and very specifically cooking with pulses, to the level of classic gourmet cuisine. It is clear to Pickarski that although the United States both produces and consumes a lot of pulses, they are still not generally well-perceived in culinary circles. Although most people would agree that a vegetarian diet is healthy, they do not consider pulses to be more important than fresh

67 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

vegetables. Nevertheless, there are dishes that Recently, Pickarski published The Classical have helped pulses to be accepted by the more Vegetarian Cookbook,* a modern compendium reluctant: trailblazers such as Boston baked beans, of responsible and ethical food. Alfonso Cajun gumbo with alubia criollo beans in Louisiana Contrisciani, perhaps the North American chef or pinto bean burritos in the southeast. Appearing who most actively supports sustainability, calls more often on menus, they suggest that not only it a “Valuable and necessary tool for all who are there traditional recipes with pulses in North want to fully understand this new 21st century America, but new and exciting dishes, too. cuisine – animal-free with classical standards and classical taste.” In its some 400 recipes, the Pickarski’s incredible output has included book explores vegetarianism, making a sound designing, opening and promoting many case for a vegetarian diet, tackling head-on the innovative restaurants in Florida, Massachusetts, problem of protein sources. In it, one is inspired Illinois, Kansas, Wisconsin and Colorado, to create pulse dishes to satisfy modern tastes showcasing vegetarian and vegan food, a while guaranteeing a more sustainable future macrobiotic diet and even pulses themselves. for our food. He has also sung the praises of pulses in books, videos, and on TV, featuring them on Home on ABC. *ISBN: 978-0-692-41536-8. 400 pp. eco-cuisine.com

68 69 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

02 CENTRAL AMERICA AND THE CARIBBEAN

01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED BY TYPE OF PULSE An incredible variety and amount of beans are produced in Central America.

2013 BEANS CHICKPEAS VETCHES BROAD OTHER DRIED PEAS LENTILS COWPEAS BEANS PULSES Thousand tonnes

02 VALUE OF PULSES OVER 1992 THE TOTAL OF AGRICULTURE In these years,

the production

of pulses (as a percentage of AVERAGE

total agriculture in the region)

has shrunk

considerably. 2,82

3 2,5

2 1,5

1 0,5

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

70 Central America and the Caribbean� A HUNDRED CENTURIES AND A HUNDRED TYPES OF BEAN

Mayan legend has it an impossible task, since only one that a poor farmer variety existed at the time. It is said that Kisin, dismayed, created beans was approached by Kisin, an evil in every colour so that he would never being in Lacandon mythology, who be tricked again. told him that in seven days his soul would be taken to hell, but that for Allegories aside, recent international each of his remaining days he would studies like those carried out at be granted a wish. The ingenious the Università Politecnica delle farmer asked him, in the following Marche in Italy, place the origin of order, for money, health, power, food the bean, the Phaseolus vulgaris, in and to travel and fulfil his dreams. Mesoamerica and not in the Andean On the seventh day, he asked Kisin region as previously thought. to help him wash the black beans This would help to explain the until they were white. This was undeniable influence of beans

71 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

1

3

2 4 5

72 in pre-Columbian cultures such as the Olmec, Maya, Aztec, Mexica, Mixtec, Tarascan, Teotihuacan and Zapotec civilisations, to name the most significant ones. Radiocarbon tests have made it possible to determine that certain spontaneously-growing beans found at archaeological sites are around 10 000 years old. It is known that in the seventh century BC, crops were already grown in the region, making them older than maize and one of the most ancient foodstuffs documented in the history of humanity. The wide variety of beans — whether in colour, size or shape — reveals the biological diversity that must have already existed at the time. It also lends weight to theories that these crops would have been traded between cultures, and even used as 6 currency or for taxation. The records of the Codex Mendoza, for instance, show levies received by the Triple Alliance of the Valley of Mexico in the form of beans.

The importance of beans in the indigenous diet, along with the diversity of varieties, were chronicled by religious and military officials involved in colonising the region. Captain Gonzalo Fernández de Oviedo Valdés, for instance, in his Historia general y natural de las Indias, islas y tierra firme del mar océano (General and natural history of the Indies, islands and mainland of the ocean), a sixteenth-century work, describes the rich plant life of Central America. It highlights 7 8 the importance of pulses, and in MEXICO CITY (MEXICO) ZACATEGAS (MEXICO) particular, their significance on 1. El Turix Yucateca taco 3. Taco stand. the isthmus and in the Caribbean stand 2. Salted lentils on MERIDA (MEXICO) (where Christopher Columbus display in the Medellin 6. The taco stands himself found strange crops, “very market. 4, 7 and 8. at Yucateca, Taquiera New different beans to our own”). Different ingredients in San Fernando. Needless to say, pulses continue the market Medellin. 5. Shopkeeper selling pulses to be a central part of the culinary traditions of the Antillies,

73 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES Lentils first came to Central America with the Spanish colonisers, and are found in wonderful local recipes, some even including fruit. In Oaxaca they make a lentil soup with pineapple, banana, belly pork, sausages, black pudding, onion and garlic. In Puebla, lentils are first boiled in water and then cooked in a stew with poblano (a mild chilli), tomato, garlic, oregano and cinnamon, with some adding ripe wild banana for a wonderful taste sensation.

Cooked beans are mashed or blended and then fried in lard until all liquid has simmered off. This creates a thick, soft paste with a compact texture. QUERÉTARO The resulting refried beans are the most (MEXICO) popular way to eat pulses in Mexico and Two locals enjoying Central America. You will find them a snack in the market accompanying any meal, or spread on San Juan del Rio. bread and used for antojitos (Mexican street food), as a tasty complement to the other flavours. Cuba, the Dominican Republic, El ingredients such as maize, chilli Mexico grows the lion’s share of Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua. and beans. This pulse is known in chickpeas consumed in Latin America. It is also accepted among food the ancestral language of Na’huatl Although less popular than beans in historians that following the arrival by the generic name etl, a word Mexico, this versatile pulse, whether of the Spanish in the Americas, for beans found in many culinary roasted, toasted, salted or with chillis, beans began to cross the ocean. references handed down through can be found in soups and stews, often Spain proved particularly receptive the ages. accompanying poultry dishes, in desserts in terms of cultivation and culture such as honeyed chickpeas and in and soon they spread throughout The ancient bond between botana (appetisers). Chickpeas are often Europe. In return, Europeans Mexicans and beans has resulted sold in markets pre-soaked and in brought chickpeas to the Americas, in their being featured in over transparent bags, ready for cooking to your heart’s desire. and although they never became half of the country’s national as prevalent as beans, they adapted dishes, extending across each and What’s in a name? Mexico, very well to the climate of northern every region. Beans are such an Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Mexico; today, the leading producer important part of the Mexican Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Puerto Rico and exporter of the pulse in the diet that, despite the huge volume call bean plants plantas del frijol. Bean region, where it is known as of production, the bulk of the pods are called ejotes (from the Na’huatl the chícharo. crops grown are for domestic exotl), although in Costa Rica they go by consumption. Lentils, another the name of vainicas. In Panama, red Mexico, with a population of well pulse prevalent in traditional kidney beans and black turtle beans are over 100 million, was also the first Mexican cuisine, in contrast are porotos while throughout nearly the entire country to be granted UNESCO grown primarily in the states Caribbean they are habichuelas, meaning little haba or broad bean (stemming from Intangible Cultural Heritage of Michoacán and Guanajuato, the Latin faba, meaning bean), since they status for its cuisine, mainly due to but whose local production only look like their larger relative. certain culinary methods that have consumes a small proportion of survived since ancient times, and national demand.

74 03 BEANS. VALUE OF PRODUCTION The value of beans rose sharply from 2011 to 2013. MAXIMUM MINIMUM 1990-2013 Average value

Million USD

04 MAXIMUM

PRODUCTION 2013 OF BEANS

Production levels have remained relatively stable over these years.

1992 THOUSAND TONNES MINIMUM THOUSAND TONNES

05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS

PER TYPE OF PULSE* PER TYPE OF PULSE*

Beans are by far the largest Central America’s main exports

import in Central America. are chickpeas.

2,82

BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS PEAS TOTAL TOTAL PEAS LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS BEANS BEANS

THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES * Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed.

75 MEXICO CITY (MEXICO) Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita. THE FLAVOUR OF A NATION

RICARDO MUÑOZ ZURITA, BUILDING AN ALMANAC OF BEANS

ince the Aztec Empire, Mexico Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has had a culinary history buying ingredients continuing up to today. The in the Medellín market country’s farming traditions and (Mexico City). unusual growing techniques, along with its sensitivity to infuse ancestral influences, are all factors that have carried Mexican cuisine to be recognized as a World Heritage in 2010.

The declaration came about thanks to an initiative Spromoted by Mexico’s Conservatory of Gastronomic Culture, a private institution that first envisaged the possibility of a national cuisine obtaining World Heritage status. Years earlier, five Mexican chefs led by Ricardo Muñoz Zurita paid a visit to UNESCO headquarters in Paris. To make their case, they brought with them a virtual farmer’s market – 40 kilos of authentic Mexican produce: escamoles, huitlacoche and chapulines; Puebla, black and yellow mole; 120 kinds of chilli, epazote, achiote and quelites; pumpkins and squash, black sapote pulp, and no fewer than 50 native varieties of beans. “Taking our basic staples of maize, chilli and beans, combined with pre-Hispanic cooking methods, were the reasons for insisting,” says chef Muñoz Zurita. He did not back

77 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

down when faced with committee scepticism over what to do with a 40 kilo dossier.

For Muñoz Zurita, Mexico and arguably Latin America’s undisputed top chef, beans are synonymous with Mexican cuisine. He is well aware that times change and with social transformation comes new urban eating habits, changing diets and influence by global trends and classism. And while rural traditions are often relegated to the dust bin of the past, in Mexico, beans remain a daily staple in a country where over 100 varieties are produced.

Muñoz Zurita points out that the milpa – the ancestral agro system of Mesoamerica that produces bean and maize crops – is consistent with systems developed by other civilisations around the world. In other words, soya and rice in the East, beans, chickpeas and wheat in Africa, beans and maize or wheat in the Americas, and beans, chickpeas, lentils and wheat throughout Europe owe their growth to early Mexican farmers.

It is widely known that natural growing cycles and eating habits have led us to eat pulses and cereals together, thereby increasing the nutritional potential of proteins. This practice produces a synergistic effect that, in the case of beans, triggers an abundance of

78 Central America and the Caribbean �

Chef Muñoz Zurita in his restaurant Azul Condesa preparing a bean salad.

79 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

lysine, an essential amino acid that, as the chef states, short” of reality, given the endless possibilities of beans in “Aids collagen formation and calcium absorption in the Mexican cuisine. body, maintains the nitrogen balance in adults, is very useful in the production of antibodies and stimulates the Muñoz Zurita insists that more pulses should be growth hormone.” included in our diets, particularly in large cities, where new, global, standardised and foreign habits Ricardo Muñoz Zurita was born in Mexico City in 1966. have taken root. The nutritional properties of beans He was named the Prophet and Preserver of Culinary are unquestionable, while access is readily at hand: Tradition by Time magazine in 2001, one of many “It’s quite easy and economical to buy dried pulses,” distinctions, like his membership in the Académie he insists. He does admit, however, that a busy Culinaire de France. After gaining his first experience in modern lifestyle isn’t suited to the slow-cooked stews his parents’ family restaurant, he trained as a chef at San in which pulses often feature. The absence of a family Diego Community College in California, Le Cordon Bleu member whose role is to be in the kitchen means that in Paris and the Culinary Institute of America in New for many, beans are starting to be seen as a nostalgic York. He is the founder and manager of Azul y Oro Café reminder of homemade cuisine. To counter this, in Mexico City at the university’s Cultural Centre, and Chef Muñoz Zurita praises the pressure cooker and owns two leading centres of Mexican cuisine, the Azul timers on cooking equipment, which have sped-up Condesa and Azul Histórico restaurants, housed in unique the process and made timing more precise. “Another premises in the capital’s historic centre. He has authored useful alternative,” the chef suggests, “is pre-cooked a vast number of culinary publications, including the or powdered pulses, prepared by reputable brand monumental Diccionario Enciclopédico de Cocina Mexicana names and preserved perfectly in cans, sealed, or (Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mexican Cuisine), published vacuum-packed – retaining the pulses’ nutritional in 2013; the product of 22 years of work. It devotes over properties – while making our lives easier and 100 entries to beans alone. Even so, he says, this “falls making room for pulses.”

80 81 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

03 SOUTH AMERICA 1990

01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED 2 127.46 3 802 BY TYPE OF PULSE (AVERAGE 2010 - 2013) Beans are by far the most produced 1 456.09 type of pulse in this region. 1990-2013

2009

184 1 815.73 136

2009 4 235 56 51 26 11 2

BEANS PEAS BROAD LUPINES CHICKPEAS COWPEAS LENTILS OTHER BEANS PULSES Thousand tonnes 1998 2 849 2010-2014 3 801 2.4% 1994

707

02 VALUE OF PULSES

OVER THE TOTAL OF AGRICULTURE

In these years, the value

AVERAGE 531 of pulses decreased by

more than 50%. 393 1.75 361

1.1% 183

3 2013 131 2,5 72 2 26 48

3 5 1,5 3

1

0,5

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

82 South America� FRIJOLES, FRISOLES, FEIJÕES

Even though recent Accordingly, there is a startling studies suggest that array of names to describe the pulse: frijoles, fréjoles, frisoles, beans originated outside feijões, kumandas, porotos, granos the Andean region, it and caraotas, to name just a few. took no time before they No surprise, then, that the region were considered wholly is home to the International South American. Centre for Tropical Agriculture (CIAT), located in the Colombian This pulse is a staple for millions Department of Valle del Cauca. of people there. Their status This collaborative research body is largely due to the bean’s works to improve agricultural historic acclimatisation and early productivity and the management domestication leading it to evolve of resources of tropical countries, its very own gene pool in the including beans. The Centre South American sub-region (like houses the largest quantity of the bean found at the ancient germplasm of bean varieties Cueva del Guiterrero site in Peru). preserved worldwide,

83 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

and undertakes sophisticated experiments to make these plants more resistant to disease, heat and low-phosphate soil. Researchers strive to increase micronutrients of beans and improve upon the natural nitrogen fixation of pulse roots, which is so highly beneficial to the environment. 1 Beans are central to the rich cuisines of Peru and Colombia, two countries shaped by countless influences throughout their histories. Indeed, their lexicon is REUTERS/Eric Gaillard imbued with terms such as chifa, nikkei, criolla and paisa, referring to dishes influenced by a mix of various cultures. During several decades of the 20th century, different varieties evolved to adapt to the various climate and soil conditions of Peru’s coastal region, stretching from Ecuador to Chile. The result is that this area now forms an important production belt spanning some 3 000 kilometres.

In countries like Bolivia, Ecuador, Uruguay and Venezuela, this pulse is a dietary staple due to its high yield, low cost and high nutritional value. The Southern Cone features some important dry pulse- producing regions in the Argentine 2 provinces of Buenos Aires, Córdoba, Jujuy, Salta, Santa Fe, RÍO DE JANEIRO (BRAZIL) Santiago del Estero and Tucumán. 1. View of the favela buildings from The Puy lentil and the chickpea, one of the terrace of The Maze hotel grown mainly in Argentina, Chile located in the Tavares Bastos slum. and Peru, are also common in CUIABÁ (BRAZIL) South America, while other pulses 2. A couple wearing Brazil shirts such as butter beans are similarly work at their stall at the port market. important to the region.

84 South SÃO PAULO (BRAZIL) America 3. The Brazilian chef Helena Rizzo selecting pulses in the market � Pinheiros. 4. People enjoy drinks and snacks under Brazilian flags at Mercado Municipal, a historical indoor market decorated for the World Cup in Sao Paulo. 5. A vendor fills a bag of beans for customers at the Municipal Market. BELEM (BRAZIL) 6. A man prepares the traditional meal of fried fish with the regional fruit acai inside Ver-o-Peso market, an open air market where merchants from around Para State sell products from the Amazon, ranging from fruit to medicinal plants, in Belem. REUTERS/Damir Sagolj

3 4 REUTERS/Nacho Doce REUTERS/Nacho REUTERS/Ricardo Moraes 5 6

85 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES In the last century, Brazil, with its landmass accounting for almost 50% of South America and its renowned enthusiasm for pulses, seemed like the ideal country to absorb Mexico’s plentiful chickpea surplus. The mission was entrusted to famous writer and gastronome Alfonso Reyes, the Aztec country’s ambassador to Rîo de Janeiro from 1936 to 1937. Chickpeas, known in his homeland as granos de pico (peaked grains), were virtually unknown in Brazil. In his Memorias de Cocina y Bodega, Reyes explains how Dulce, his Brazilian chef and Feijoada (black accomplice, promoted his cause. Instead beans) in the restaurant, A Figueira of calling them garbanzos, she presented in São Paulo. them at embassy lunches as braganços – a direct reference to the famous Portuguese Braganza dynasty which ruled the Brazilian Empire before independence. One country deserves special stewed pork, and high-grade The ambassador jokingly attributes the mention, given its demographic carbohydrates in the form of introduction of the Mexican chickpea to the Brazilian market precisely for this subtle and geographical size: Brazil, rice or farofa (cassava flour rebranding. To this day, the chickpea which has a longstanding essential to Brazilian cuisine). remains popular in Brazil. tradition of feijões (black beans). It can even be combined with This versatile pulse is an vitamin-rich fruit (especially The feijoada Maní is the most ingredient of its national dish, oranges, originally consumed to innovative interpretation on record of feijoada, a unique speciality in prevent scurvy) and any other Brazil’s national dish. It was created by the culinary world. Depending ingredient that the imagination Helena Rizzo and her husband, chef on the ingredients, it can go from and resources allow. Daniel Redondo in 2009. It occurred to the most humble, rudimentary them during a trip to Spain, when the dish, to a delicacy fit for a royal Another leading Brazilian recipe famous chef Ferran Adrià developed the banquet. According to texts featuring pulses is tutu à mineira, culinary technique, spherification, which uses calcium lactate gluconate and like Luís da Câmara Cascudo’s a humble meat and black bean alginate, two ingredients that have a História da Alimentação no Brasil, stew made from the leftover magical aesthetic effect on food. Inspired this is due to the fact that the dish broth from feijoada or feijão by this method, they returned to use it on takes its origins from banquets preto, thickened with farofa and the Brazilian black bean to create their held by plantation owners; seasoned with chilli, pepper and own gastronomic synthesis of the leftovers would be collected by garlic. And while chickpeas are famed feijõada. slaves and labourers who used fairly rare in the country and them to make a tasty, low- seldom grown or consumed, Judía, frijol, poroto, haba, cost meal. The dish is now an lentils are quite popular in habichuela, feijões, fréjol, frísol, fríjol, institution, as likely to be seen Brazil, though almost all lentils fréjol and frijón are all words denoting beans in a luxury hotel as it is in the are imported. Brazilians have in South America, often with different stresses, like in the plural frijoles, in most humble of households. Its even adopted the Italian tradition Colombia, the first syllable is accented nutritional value stems from of eating them on New Year’s instead of the second. a combination of the feijões’ Eve in the belief that they excellent plant protein, the bring prosperity.

86 03

BEANS. VALUE OF PRODUCTION 1990 Beans have doubled MAXIMUM in value in the past 2 127.46 ten years. MINIMUM 3 802 1 456.09

1990-2013

2009 1990-2013 Average value 184 1 815.73 136 Million USD

04 2009 4 235 56 51 MAXIMUM 26 11 2 PRODUCTION OF BEANS Production levels have remained

fairly constant. MINIMUM

1998 2 849 2010-2014 3 801 2.4% 1994 THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

707

05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS

PER TYPE OF PULSE* PER TYPE OF PULSE*

South America imports roughly Not surprisingly, beans are

50% more than its exports. 531 South America’s highest exports.

393 1.75 361

1.1% 183

2013 131 72 26 48

3 5 3

BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS DRIED TOTAL TOTAL DRIED LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS BEANS PEAS PEAS BEANS

THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES * Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed.

87 SÃO PAULO (BRAZIL) Brazilian chef Helena Rizzo with some of her pulse speciality dishes. ECOLOGY AND MODERNITY

H E L E N A R I Z Z O AND HER I N N O V A T I V E CLASSIC FEIJOÃDA

osmopolitan flavours and new techniques are central to professional cookery in the world’s metropolis. Sometimes, chefs find themselves beholden to the trends and tastes sizzling around an urban environment. São Paulo, for example, has been moving towards more Italian or French ingredients and Cflavourings. Traditional charcoal grill houses are transformed into buzzing social scenes, keeping in step with the growing status derived from the country’s pastures and cattle.

While on the home front, beans, cassava and rice remain the main staples, a healthy dietary legacy of colonial Brazil. And while some of the Chef Rizzo city’s most popular restaurants like A Figueira selecting pulses at still offer a tremendous weekly service of the the market. mainstay feijoada, testifying to the lasting importance of this national dish, it would

89 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

appear that an awkward classist attitude has some of the finest examples of local cuisine. arisen; one that tends to snub popular, traditional Sous-vide cooking techniques and alginate dishes in favour of more trendy tastes. And with solution are part of Rizzo’s armoury, while pork it, reducing the prominence of locally grown ribs and trotters, beef shanks, sausages, chicken, produce and traditionally prepared stews and chestnuts, walnuts, orange slices, cabbage diminishing the presence of pulses in some of the and other vegetables but above all, beans, still best known eateries. feature in her at once stately and humble version of Brazil’s most historic dish. World-famous Brazilian chef, Helena Rizzo, has set out to singlehandedly buck this trend and And the results speak for themselves. In 2013, boldly reinstate the humble pulse. Her signature Helena Rizzo was judged to be the top chef feijoada served up on weekends at her restaurant, in Latin America. The following year, she Maní, restores Brazil’s prized dish to its rightful was crowned the World’s Best Female Chef in place; positioning it among a host of innovative London in 2014, recognised by the same panel dishes made using modern techniques. Chefs of food critics that compiles The World’s 50 Best incorporating progressive cookery with more Restaurants annually. Maní appears on this lofty traditional methods, are succeeding in creating list at number 41. In 2015, Rizzo garnered a star

90 South America�

in the first Michelin Guide to Brazil, and her eatery was selected as the city’s best contemporary restaurant in the 2015 Ver São Paulo lifestyle magazine. Maní is situated in the sophisticated district of Jardim Paulistanom, and its name evokes the indigenous goddess of cassava, who according to legend, was buried in the place where the most highly prized root in the Brazilian diet first grew.

Born in Rio Grande de Sul, in Porto Alegre in 1978 — the state that borders Uruguay and Argentina and where inhabitants are known as Brazilian

91 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

gauchos — Helena studied architecture during are in tune with natural cycles, sustainable her brief stint at university. At 18, she moved to farming and native Brazilian products. She uses the seething city of São Paulo, starting work as suppliers who carefully select their pulses, like a model, before becoming involved in cooking Antonia Padvaiska, of Emporio Piotara, who with Fasano, one of Brazil’s most famous hotel supplies her with an excellent local variety of groups. After running the Na Mata Café kitchen, butter bean – the manteiguinha del Norte – or she travelled to Europe, where she worked in the Coruputuba farm, in the Paraiba Valley, her restaurants in Italy and Spain. At the Celler de Can source of cow and pigeon peas. “We are lucky Roca in Girona, Spain (at that time considered to take advantage of the wide variety of dried the best restaurant in the world), she was beans we have in Brazil,” says Rizzo, “Not only introduced to the idea of cooking as an art form. the manteiguinha and black bean, we also use Working alongside Daniel Redondo, who she met pigeon peas at Maní, a pulse that was widely there and married, in 2006 she opened her own consumed in the past, but fell out of favour. But restaurant, Maní. now, some producers have started replanting it and extolling its virtues, with the result Committed to using fresh, local, seasonal that it has been welcomed enthusiastically by produce and primary flavours, Helena’s dishes young chefs.”

92 feijões de corda 2013 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

129.96 04 EUROPE

1990

01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED BY TYPE OF PULSE (AVERAGE 2009-2013) 32.63 A glance at the production of different pulses in Europe shows that dried peas are the most produced in the region. 73.3 3 551

979

700 1990 13 192 511 336 47 304 268 140 85

DRIED PEAS OTHER BROAD BEANS VETCHES COWPEAS LUPINES CHICKPEAS LENTILS PULSES BEANS 2010-2014 Thousand tonnes 3 550 02 VALUE OF PULSES 2007 2 682 OVER THE TOTAL OF AGRICULTURE 0.67% 1993

In Europe, the value of

pulses was less than 1%.

Over the years, pulses continued to decrease in

importance to being only 0.29% of crops produced

in Europe in 2012. AVERAGE

1 718 1 683 0.6% 0.53 965 1990

650 604 3 427 2,5

2 215 98 150 137 1,5 35 119 1

0,5 0.29%

2013

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

94 Europe�

THE OLD WORLD’S STORE CUPBOARD

“I am unfamiliar with storage that helped to repopulate the history of beans the continent during one of its on other continents, darkest times. Although people could reap the but surely even without European benefits of pulse protein anywhere beans, the history of those in the world, perhaps because continents would have been pulses were a relative novelty, different, just as the commercial the Europeans not only embraced history of Europe would have them, but made them their own. been different without Chinese silk and Indian spices”. So opined In fact, looking at traditional author and semiologist Umberto recipes across the continent, we Eco in a famous article in The New find lentils, chickpeas and bean York Times Magazine. Displaying dishes from Norway to Cyprus, both sage judgement and sound from Portugal to Russia, and even evidence, the Italian writer in the outermost regions such as claims that pulses literally saved the Canaries, the Azores and the Europe. He cites that after the long French overseas territories. It goes agricultural revolution following without saying that in certain the fall of the Roman Empire, the regions, pulses not only provide a principal source of protein was great source of food and nutrition, beans and lentils. These spurred but are even cultural landmarks. on a process of domestication and Such is the case of the vast

95 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

range of pulses from Italy’s Emilia- Romagna region, or the devotion to green lentils in Puy or to the Occitan white bean cassoulet of France.

But Europe is also central to the world map of pulses as the point of convergence for the greatest culinary globalisation in history; a process starting with the explorations of Christopher Columbus and resulting in pulses from Asia meeting their counterparts from the Americas. This gastronomical exchange carried pulses to the four corners of the earth, creating an 2 unprecedented revolution of taste 1 and cultural crossover. Without trade, we would not have seen chickpeas in the Americas and certain kinds of beans in Asia. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the Spanish Empire, the Dutch East India Company (the world’s first multinational) and the British and Portuguese crowns were the vehicles that transported these products, perfectly preserved, from 4 agent to agent, colony to colony, and port to port. Works of such universal standing as Miguel de 3 Cervantes’ Don Quixote feature a wide variety of dishes, pointing MADRID (SPAIN) to the rich tradition of pulses by 1. Traditional corner shop in Plaza Mayor. 2. Two this time, and include references to men having a snack outdoors in the vicinity of the products within everybody’s reach, Plaza Mayor. 3. Food stall in the San Miguel market. like chickpeas. 4. and 5. Varieties of beans. 6. Alimentación Cabello, located in the Plaza de Matutes, is the oldest shop selling pulses in the city. 7. and 8. Varieties of Nowadays, Spain is amongst those pulses on display in the market de la Paz. countries that are true benchmarks 9. Showcasing pulses in Alimentación Cabello. when it comes to pulses; perhaps 10. Cocido Madrileño (typical Spanish stew with not in terms of production, where pulses) in the restaurant La Bola. Photographs on this page and the next were taken by it pales in comparison to countries Thomas Canet such as India and Canada, 5

96 Europe�

7

6 8

9 10

97 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES Cassoulet is France’s most typical dish featuring pulses. Originally from the southeast of France, it is a stew made of white beans with Toulouse sausages, streaky bacon and pork loin, all cooked in goose fat. In northeast France, Breton- style beans with tomatoes are famous, and elsewhere you can find Provençal bean soup with pistou (a paste made of basil, garlic and cheese) as well as Puy lentils. These even get turned into the sweet preserve Confiture de lentilles by the Sisters of Saint John, in Murat (Auvergne), in the southeast of France. Spanish Chef Abraham Garcia buying pulses in Hutspot, or hotchpotch in British Casa Ruiz, a specialized English, is a thick mash made with shop offering a wide meat, vegetables and chickpeas range of European created in Leiden (Netherlands). It is the pulses (Madrid). traditional dish commemorating their victory over Spanish troops in 1574. According to the plaque marking this day, Hutspot is similar to the tasty stew but definitely in terms of diversity They feature in hundreds of the Spanish army left behind after their and quality produced. There is no traditional recipes and modern retreat, and it helped feed the starving other European country that creative reinterpretations from the and besieged inhabitants of the town. offers such a wide range of pulses, country’s top chefs. Spanish beans often bearing proud EU labels as deserve a full mention too, with The lentil stew known as a protected designation of origin some originating in the Middle Linseneintopf is one of few German or a geographically traditional East and others in the Americas. dishes in which pulses play a leading speciality. Indeed, there is no other role. It is made with belly pork, celery country where pulses appear so Asturian beans (fabas asturianas) and potatoes and comes from frequently in traditional cuisine. are one of the leading lights for Göttingen in Lower Saxony, where it is considered a staple of the University of high-quality Spanish pulses but Göttingen, founded in 1734. In Spain, chickpeas are the equally excellent varieties can be mainspring of more than 20 found in La Bañeza (León), Tolosa Cocido castellano, also called different types of cocido (a type of (Guipúzcoa) or even the Judión cocido madrileño, pays homage to stew) served across the country. It de la Granja (Segovia) variety chickpeas, the pulse most often is enjoyed from the capital city of which was originally animal associated with Spain. A rural and Madrid to Galicia in the northwest, fodder before it became the love unpretentious dish, the Lhardy restaurant or made in a variant called of gourmets. And how could we in Madrid added it to the menu in puchero in the Canaries. Those forget beans from El Barco (Ávila), 1839. Its main ingredient has taken in the know are particular fans Ganxet (Barcelona), Guernica pride of place in Spain as the emblem of Castilian interpretations from (Vizcaya), red kidney beans of the Spanish capital’s oldest dining club, El Garbanzo de Plata (The Silver Fuentesaúco (Zamora) and Pedrosillo from La Rioja and Ibeas (Burgos); Chickpea). It is quite an honour to be (Salamanca). each and every one of them invited to wear the silver chickpea representing farming excellence badge! Even dried chickpeas are used As for lentils, La Armuña and meticulous methods of to put up a stake in Spain’s most (Salamanca) is home to a delicious production, inextricably linked to popular card game, Mus. variety, with their soft skin each of the regions where they and smooth and even texture. are grown.

98 Europe� 03 2013

DRY PEAS, VALUE MAXIMUM OF PRODUCTION 129.96 The value has increased steadily from 1990 to

2013. 1990

MINIMUM 32.63 1990-2013 Average value 73.3 3 551 Million USD

979 04 700 MAXIMUM 1990 13 192 511 PRODUCTION OF DRY PEAS 336 47 304 Levels fell steadily since 1990 268 140 85 and only from 2012 that

farmers began to produce

more dry peas in Europe.

2010-2014 3 550 THOUSAND TONNES 2007 2 682 THOUSAND TONNES 0.67% MINIMUM 1993

05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS PER

PER TYPE OF PULSE* TYPE OF PULSE*

Europe imports a total On average, Europe imports slightly of 1 718 000 tonnes of pulses more than it exports, namely

each year. 1 638 000 tonnes each year.

1 718 1 683 0.6% 0.53 965 1990

650 604 427

215 98 150 137 35 119

0.29%

2013 BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS PEAS TOTAL TOTAL PEAS LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS

BEANS BEANS

THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

* Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and mportsi include other pulses that are not listed. 99 MADRID, (SPAIN) Spanish chef Abraham García in his restaurant, Viridiana. SURPRISE AND SUBSTANCE BY THE HANDFUL

ABRAHAM GARCÍA BRINGS FOSSILS BACK TO LIFE

The Spanish chef Abraham García choosing pulses in Casa Ruiz.

lance at the menu at Viridiana, Abraham García’s restaurant in Madrid, and you will always see pulses amongst the specialities. The humble pulse is not typical fare for top European restaurants, but Viridiana has been a quality eatery for 40 years. According to the food critic at the International New York GTimes, it is one of the ten best bistros in the world, a claim backed by Marie Claude Decamps of France’s Le Monde.

Viridiana’s owner and head chef virtually heralded-in multicultural cuisine in Spain; a navigator

101 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

taking then-conservative Spanish palates on a journey of cosmic fusion to experience a wider world of flavours. Such cutting-edge aspirations strengthened rather than weakened his love for the simplicity of pulses. He researches and creates new tastes with pulses and thereby widens their gastronomic appeal. He presents revolutionary dishes like Basque black bean stew, okra and Antarctic stone crab stew and stews seasoned New Orleans-style with chilli peppers and Cajun spices. These are but a small sample of the creative spirit with which Abraham is infusing pulses, so they can leap out of the past and onto our plates.

Abraham García is a chef who is at once impulsive and sensitive, learned and primal, intuitive and

102 Europe�

103 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Chef Abraham García at work in his restaurant.

sophisticated – like so many genuinely great chefs. He Abraham is a writer too, and in his works literature also has strong beliefs about what food should be, and food mingle, such as in Abraham Boca and and his daily trips to the markets are translated into Recetas para quitarse el sombrero (Recipes to take your his ever-changing menu. And this penchant is not hat off to). reserved for perishables like fish and vegetables, but rather Abraham brings an unbridled curiosity for With literary prowess, he quotes the physicist and new and unexpected tastes he can create together poet Agustín Fernández Mallo, who believes that with a variety of pulses waiting for him in his “‘The reason we love to sit at a table and eat together kitchen, soaking in water from the night before. is because the raw material we pick up at market

104 Europa�

105 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

The spanish chef checks on his pulses.

is already dead.’ Cooking it, serving it and savouring severe stews with michirones which require soaking it is the same as bringing it back to life.” This brings for 48 hours before an uncertain cooking process; to an awareness of the passing of time, marked by our the surreptitiously subtle taste of a grass pea flour own inevitable death and magical resurrection. paste that must be used ever so sparingly (something that people realised only after overeating it in times This tenet is particularly true for pulses. Indeed, of famine). Abraham believes that the life cycle of pulses responds to this idea more so than any other product: Abraham García was born in the countryside of from its height of freshness as a plant (which implies Robledillo (Toledo), a tiny hamlet in La Mancha. freezing and thawing for some varieties), its During his bucolic childhood he was a curious rebel. providential fossil record when dried, to its recovery He would go on to train in the great restaurants of when soaked, it is given new life in dishes fostering Madrid (Coro, Jockey, Club 31), but never forgot the the chef’s inspiration and meals shared by friends. basics he learned at home, such as the family recipe Abraham knows full well that pulses exercise a called “Three handfuls” (beans, chickpeas and decisive role in Spain’s culinary traditions. From lentils). This dish intuitively foreshadowed the

106 Europa�

107 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Chef Abraham Garcia shares a convivial moment with his team in his restaurant, Viridiana.

science of creating a healthy range of vegetable when served with local sausages morcilla de puerro protein by serving pulses with a handful of rice and morcilla de repollo; delicate and moist red thrown in for good measure. kidney beans from La Rioja; and garrafó beans that make paella more hearty or add joy to any salad. Spain has a range of pulses that proudly bear their To this we can add Pardina lentils, Beluga lentils own names, seasons and both simple and and green lentils, all with their serious character sophisticated regional dishes. Nothing is foreign to yet so quick to prepare. But, above all, there is the Abraham in the culinary miracle that is pulses, the generous chickpea that can do it all – the star of most reliable meal all year-round. He loves fabada both everyday stews and the stellar version that asturiana (Asturian bean stew) for its immutable Abraham only prepares to order. Invariably a rigour; the many types of white beans in Leon, one-off, since it is never the same way twice, just Palencia and Segovia; black and red beans from as it should be each and every time, for Tolosa and Guernica, reaching almost holy status an eternity.

108 109 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES 1990

2011 05 EASTERN EUROPE AND WESTERN ASIA 686,85

01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED 407,34 BY TYPE OF PULSE Chickpeas, closely followed by lentils are the crops most produced in this region. 648

529

508,21

327

1990 958 125 122 122 118 112 87 1

CHICKPEAS LENTILS BEANS VETCHES LUPINES OTHER DRIED PEAS BROAD COWPEAS PULSES BEANS

Thousand tonnes 2014 579 2010-2014 02 VALUE OF PULSES 648 OVER THE TOTAL OF AGRICULTURE In these years, the value 1 160 of pulses has fallen by a third.

AVERAGE

495 470

3,34% 1,94% 1990

235 251 3 2,5 159 2 127

1,5 84 76 77

1 27 0,5 4

1,2% Maximum value Minimum value 2008 Percentage (%)

110 Eastern Europe � Western and Asia� THE HOLY PULSE

Lentils are the first pulse rather than the other delicacies that described in the Bible, were offered to them. Though this odd request at first disconcerted which later also cites the perfect the people responsible for feeding marriage between pulses and them, after several days, the cereals. This first reference occurs, greater health benefits of the lentils appropriately, in the book of became clear. Genesis. In it, Esau gives up his birthright to Jacob for a bowl of The remains of domesticated lentil stew. The dish is initially lentils and chickpeas found in referred to as a “red stew”, excavations at Hacilar, Turkey, and suggesting that the lentils they Jarmo, in Iraqi Kurdistan, led to the ate were usually split and possibly conclusion that these crops have seasoned. The same text also been consumed in the area for at tells the story of the Jews chosen least 8 000 years. In the region of to serve Nebuchadnezzar after Palestine, where people lived in his campaign against Jerusalem. the contrasting landscapes of arid Daniel and the other young men desert and the rich terrain of the asked the king for water and pulses Asi valleys and Jordan, advanced

111 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

ISTANBUL (TURKEY) 1. A street vendor sells traditional Turkish bagels, simit, outside the historical Grand Bazaar. 2. Turkish chef Senol walking at Eminou Market in Istanbul. 3. and 4. A street vendor roosting chickpeas in the streets of Istanbul. 5. Local fishermen fishing over a bridge in Istanbul. 6. A hostess offers Turkish delight for Orient Express passengers at Sirkeci station 7. A view at sunset of Istanbul. planting and harvesting techniques were developed. Broad beans and lentils played a vital role in bringing about stable settlements,

making the region a Phoenician REUTERS/Murad Sezer supply point.

The natural wealth of the strip of land between the Tigris and the Euphrates rivers also gave rise to important ancient cities like Babylon. It is widely accepted that the earliest structured writing system was developed in Mesopotamia around 3 200 BC, and evidence suggests that this innovation was a result of the need to control agricultural production and taxes on its output.

Dried lentils, broad beans and chickpeas would have played a vital role in the evolution of this early civilisation due to their long 1 shelf life. Many of the pulses we now know came from this part of the world, unsurprisingly the same region where the first examples of domestication of these crops were found and the where they subsequently spread and were traded.

Pulses are still a very important part of the region’s cuisine. Iraqi and Iranian cuisine (with their roots in ancestral Persian, Assyrian, Babylonian and Sumerian traditions), as well as Arabian, Syrian, Jordanian, Azerbaijani, Armenian and Israeli cuisine (and even the more rudimentary Qatari, Omani and Yemeni cuisines) share many recipes for pulses which 2

112 Eastern Europe� and Western Asia�

3

4 5

7 REUTERS/Murad Sezer

6 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES The Bible mentions adashim or lentils up to six times (Genesis 25:24, 2 Samuel 17:28, Ezekiel 4:9), proving that it was a vital pulse in the Jewish diet.

Lentils can even be found growing wild in the southwest of Turkey and the north of Syria, which is where some palaeobotanists believe that they originated.

The mythical King Priam of Troy (in modern-day Turkey) had amongst his treasures many sacks of dried broad beans. He valued broad bean stews over any other pulse for stimulating his warrior spirit in the legendary Trojan War against the Greeks.

Chef Didem Ibn Abi Zayd’s Islamic text Senol looking for Al-Risala expressly condemns usury in ingredients in an the case of transactions of products such organic shop in as lentils, beans, lupins, chickpeas, peas, Istanbul. broad beans and green beans.

Falafel or felafel is a deep-fried patty made from broad beans or dried chickpeas and is very common in Arab and Jewish cuisine (Arabic, f a l a¯ fi l faláfel). To make it, the פלאפל ,differ in little more than their in Turkey’s national cuisine, and Hebrew name. This is the case of fasoulia, a with Ottoman, Greek, Eastern pulses are not cooked, but rather are typical bean stew that can be found European, Sephardic and of soaked in water to soften them, their skins anywhere, from Greece to the course Middle Eastern influences. removed and then they are blended. Next, southernmost part of Arabia. Simple and nutritious dishes vegetables, spices and aromatic herbs are like rice with chickpeas, known added to make a thick mixture. This is There is no doubt that the tradition as nohutlu pilav, as well as shaped into rolls, the ends are slightly pointed, and then they are fried in olive oil. of eating a selection of small combinations of rice with lentils dishes typical to the region, widely or beans, are staples in Turkish Karisik Tursu, made from chickpeas known by the Persian term, mezze, households, as are mercimek with pickled and spiced vegetables on has propelled the global reach of çorbası (lentil soup) and tutmaç, vine leaves, is a delicious traditional various pulse-based dishes, such as to which noodles are added. Turkish pickle dish which keeps for over leblebi, hummus, borani and falafel, Turkey’s cuisine also uses plenty five weeks. all of them made from chickpeas, of beans, surprisingly perhaps, or lentil salads and bean purées, given that they are far less Next-door to Turkey, Greece also like fava. produced than other pulses. shows a love for pulses, with winter Whether as an accompaniment dishes that are national institutions: Turkey, the bridge between to meat dishes or in salads, Fasolada is a Lenten soup made with haricot beans and vegetables, with fried Europe and Asia, is one of the purées, stews or soups — many leek added at the end; Fakes is a lentil world’s leading chickpea and entirely vegetarian — beans hold soup eaten as a main course after mezze. lentil producers and exporters. a historic place of honour in These pulses have deep roots Turkish cuisine.

114 1990

03 Eastern MAXIMUM Europe� 2011 CHICKPEAS, VALUE 686,85 OF PRODUCTION and Western MINIMUM In these years, the 407,34 production value has Asia� decreased by a third. 648 1990-2013 529 Average

value 508,21 Million USD 327

125 1990 958 122 118 112 87 122 04 MAXIMUM 1 PRODUCTION OF CHICKPEAS

Production levels have

been halved.

2014 579 2010-2014 MINIMUM 648 THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES 1 160 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS 05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS PER TYPE OF PULSE* PER TYPE OF PULSE*

Lentils are this region’s most Exports in this region by

popular imports. comparison to its imports, are

495 quite modest. 470

3,34% 1,94% 1990

235 251 159 127

84 76 77

27 4

BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS DRIED TOTAL TOTAL DRIED LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS BEANS PEAS PEAS BEANS

1,2% 2008 THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES * Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed. 115 ISTANBUL (TURKEY) Chef Didem Senol working with her team in the kitchen of Lokanta Maya. TURKISH PASSION D I D E M SENOL’S DEVOTION T O P U L S E S

okanta Maya is one of Turkey’s most acclaimed restaurants. Its specialities are inspired by the country’s traditional dishes, though at the same time it has a reputation for being at the cutting edge of cuisine. The owner is Didem Senol, the chef who opened it in 2010 in the Karaköy district of Istanbul after a formative journey that took her from pursuing La degree in psychology at Koç University in the city on the Bosphorus, straight to New York. Inspired to become a chef by the warmth of home-cooked stews, her travels to North America brought her to the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan’s SoHo. Before returning home, she gained valuable work experience at the Eleven Madison Park restaurant. Back in Istanbul, she worked at Un Teras, a fashionable urban restaurant specialising in classic ufak yemekler tasting menus (little dishes similar to mezze or tapas). But in 2006, she joined the Dionysos Hotel in Kumlubük, on Turkey’s southwest coast as their Head Chef. Her The chef shows off a handful of dried experience in the Mediterranean kitchen at broad beans. this unique tourist destination led to her first

117 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

book, Kızınız Defne’yi og˘lumuz Iskorpit (Flavours For instance, at Lokanta Maya hummus is made of the Aegean Sea), and inspired dishes that from chickpeas (standard), with white beans would become part of her signature repertoire (more rare), and even with the two pulses mixed at Lokanta Maya, such as her famous fish ragout together (quite unusual). Pulses are a constant with lentils. feature in sauces, accompaniments, purées, soups and salads. They are used in starters and Didem Senol identifies the concept of originality mains, from contemporary ragouts of beans, in the kitchen with origin; or in other words, chickpeas and tripe with crushed lemon to with the aesthetic and dietary foundations that haricot beans with smoked bream, red lentil and have been integral to Turkish cuisine since bulgur patties, lentil and broad bean soup to ancient times. Committed to eco-friendly, meat stewed with dried peas, white beans with sustainable produce and the natural seasonal pastrami and many more... cycles, she uses dried pulses as a trademark of her establishments. This is a recognition both of “I love cereals and pulses,” says Senol. “I the likely native origin of some of them, such as think they’re extremely important for the chickpeas (a number of researchers ascribe their sustainability of food resources, and as a protein early use to Turkey), and of the ever-present supply for the population. We chefs should shed beans, lentils, broad beans and dried peas in that professional ego that leads to a kind of many home-cooked or everyday urban recipes. classism in certain dishes, of using expensive

118 119 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

and unnecessary ingredients. We should give Maya, Some Gram), published in 2014, she hints up passing fads that make us all the same and at the social responsibility that comes with creative endeavours that deny what we have culinary activity, her interest in sustainability within our reach. We should give pulses credit and her unbridled devotion to local, seasonal and give our customers the opportunity to enjoy ingredients. them, because they are a resource that we need to feed the planet well.” Didem Senol sources produce from all over Turkey, and she is famous for forging friendships In May 2012, Didem Senol opened Gram Pera, with her suppliers. She is particularly interested an innovative and popular restaurant-bakery in working with small producers. “Local concept only serving lunch. Located in the Pera ingredients are what define a cuisine,” she neighbourhood, it offers casual dining that often says. She visits Istanbul’s food markets changes with the seasons, and pulses feature in every day. On Wednesdays, you will find her many of its dishes. Her Gram Maslak, in Orjin, at Fatih Pazari, and on Saturdays she heads to opened in 2014, and the Gram Kanyon, her most the organic market in Feriköy. There, she buys recent endeavour, replicate the experience. In lentils from Denizli, or the famous Bayramiç her second book, Biraz Maya, Biraz Gram (Some chickpeas, grown near the Marmara Sea.

120 Eastern Europe� and Western Asia�

Chef Didem Senol in preparing different dishes with pulses: red lentil burgers, hummus and warm salad with pistachio purslane with fried chickpeas.

121 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

06 SOUTH AND SOUTH EAST ASIA 4 500

4 000 01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED BY TYPE OF PULSE 3 500 Chickpeas and beans are the highest produced crop 3 000 in this region. 2 500

2 000 1 500 1 000

500 0 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

2014 14 000

12 000

10 000

8 000 CHICKPEAS BEANS OTHER LENTILS DRIED PEAS COWPEAS BROAD Thousand tonnes 6 000 PULSES BEANS 4 000 2001 2 000 0 02 VALUE OF PULSES OVER THE TOTAL OF AGRICULTURE In these years, the value of pulses 1996

1995 1997

1994 fell to a third of its 1990 levels. 1998

1993

1999 1992

AVERAGE 2000

1991 2001

1990 1,05 2002

2013 3 2003 2,5

2 2012 1,5 2004

1 2011

0,5 2005

2010 2006

2009 2007 2008

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

122 South and Southeast Asia�

THE ORIGIN OF THE GREAT PULSE

American archaeologist pre-date even those of the Middle East. We know that many pulses, and anthropologist some of them extinct today, were Chester Gorman domesticated species cultivated on made many notable the Indian subcontinent in the Vedic period (c. 1500 – c. 500 BCE). In all discoveries in Spirit probability, these products reached Cave, Thailand, Europe somehow, leading to the cultivation of beans (stemming from and his work was continued by his the Vigna genus rather than Phaseolus) colleague, Wilhelm G. Solheim. well before the discovery of America. Amongst these were finding the It’s thought they might have given rise remains of domesticated plants, to dishes such as Spanish fabada and including pulses, dating back to Occitan cassoulet. Meanwhile, lentils before 9 500 BC. Together with other (mentioned in the ancient Hindu evidence, these findings support text Vishnu Purana) and chickpeas, theories of farming systems that originally from western Asia,

123 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

AHMEDABAD (INDIA) 1. A vendor transports food packets on his moped. MUMBAI (INDIA) 2. Workers sort grains at APMC market. 3, 5 and 6. Pulses on display in APMC market. KOLKATA (INDIA) 4. A labourer carries a sack filled with pulses at a wholesale pulses market. REUTERS/Amit DaveREUTERS/Amit

1

acclimatised extraordinarily well and are now found especially in the north of the subcontinent in India, Pakistan and Myanmar (Asia’s leading producer of beans). 2

Southeast Asia is of course home to mung beans (green gram) and mungo beans (black gram), as well as soya beans, all contributing to a unique and varied range of pulse dishes. Countries such as the Philippines, under Spanish influence until the end of the 19th century, or Cambodia, once part of French Indochina, have kept alive certain imported culinary traditions using pulses, even though recipes have been adapted for beans more typical of the region. Elsewhere, since much of the region subscribes to a vegetarian diet and opts for food that is quick to prepare, it is common to find people choosing to eat pulses, raw. 3

124 REUTERS/Rupak De Chowdhuri �

4

5

6

125 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

REUTERS/Rupak De Chowdhuri 1

As for the various cuisines scattered across the dozens of islands of the Indonesian archipelago, there are an almost infinite number of uses of dried GuptaREUTERS/Amit pulses. The Sundanese in eastern Java use cooked beans such as in the popular dish of karedok, while the recipes of West Sulawesi feature pork and beans, with noticeable colonial roots.

In Pakistan, one of the region’s largest consumers and producers of chickpeas, we find that dried pulses are the most important source of vegetable protein. In descending 2 order, their main crops include the all-powerful chickpea, mung beans, KOLKATA (INDIA) lentils and mungo beans (black gram), 1. Street food sellers preparing dishes 2. Shop seller all of which are critical to the country’s scooping some pulses. 4. A woman prepares tea in a market for wholesale flowers. food security. It should be noted that JAMMU (INDIA) while many meat products do not 3. Shopkeeper selling pulses in his shop. fall under halal (ie not allowed under AHMEDABAD (INDIA) Islamic law), pulses suffer no such 5. An elephant holds up traffic. prohibition. Further adding to

126 3 127

REUTERS/Rupak De Chowdhuri 4 5 REUTERS/Amit Dave FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

KARACHI (PAKISTAN) 1. Sacks of pulses. 2. Mohammad Raqeeb, a local chef, cooking lentils on an open fire at a street stall. 3. People eating chickpeas (white) at a roadside restaurant. 5. Spices to be added to lentils are kept inside the kitchen of the Marriot Hotel in Karachi. MULTAN (PAKISTAN) 4. Panoramic view of the fruit and vegetable market Sabzi Mandi. KOT CHUTTA (PAKISTAN) 6. Instructor Malik Humma teaches a farmer working in the project Women Open School (WOS).

1

the prominence of the pulse, the Thal Desert in Pakistani Punjab is an area that suffers from a high level of water 2 stress. Despite being a place hostile to agriculture, it boasts a thriving chickpea crop; significant in that this highlights the power of pulses to grow even in extreme conditions. As for lentils, although there may be fewer than ten varieties, they are the object of future research interest in the country. Lentils are widely accepted in traditional Pakistani cuisine, as can be seen in specialities such as toor daal. Of course, an added benefit is that dried pulses are inexpensive. Although they may not normally form part of celebratory meals and banquets, when they do, it is usually to accompany some type of meat dish. Pakistani cuisine 3

128 South and Southeast Asia�

4

5

6

129 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES In India there is a saying that means, “Your palate does not deserve the subtle delicacy of these lentils”. It recalls the story of a nawab or nobleman in Lucknow — modern-day Uttar Pradesh — who turned down the meal prepared for him by his bawarchi (chef) because he was too busy playing chess. Offended, the bawarchi emptied the contents of his saucepan into the remains of a wizened dead tree and quit the palace in disgust. A few days later, the dead wood sprouted new leaves. The nobleman, learning of the rejuvenating properties of the food he had dismissed, ordered them to be made again. Finding that the chef had vanished, he found himself rifling through the KARACHI bawarchi’s belongings in an effort to (PAKISTÁN) find the recipe, known as daal Chef Zubaida masoor. But to his dismay, no Tariq arrives at the sooner had he opened the recipe Empress market, book, than the nobleman came famous in central face to face with the mocking Karachi for its phrase. selection of pulses. Small and round shapes are associated with prosperity in the Philippines. Lentils are therefore part of a traditional New Year’s Eve feast, to augur in the year to come. On the island of Luzon, superstition dictates that you carry lentils in your pocket so that you can be sure to have enough money to carry you also features a number of interesting rate of vegetarianism in the world, through the New Year. bean dishes (from both the Phaseolus with 30-40 percent of its population and Vigna genera), using tomato refusing to eat meat (the percentage Pindi chana is a Pakistani sauces with blends of masala spices. is also quite high in neighbouring speciality in which chickpeas are countries such as Bangladesh and the main ingredient. Hot and India is the world’s second largest Sri Lanka). Although meat has spicy, the dish originates from the country by population and is the become increasingly popular in city of Rawalpindi, in the heart of second largest producer of dried recent years, beans, lentils and Punjab, and has been enjoyed long beans, with the greatest amount of chickpeas remain indispensable as a before the partitioning of India and Pakistan. It is not surprising that it land dedicated to their cultivation. vital protein in the diets of hundreds has become a very popular dish It stands to reason, then, that as of millions of inhabitants. This fact and is a source of common ground a country, it also rates highly in has, of course, created an immense between the two countries. terms of overall consumption of culinary heritage orbiting the dried pulses. India has the highest world of dried pulses.

130 and South 03 Southeast 4 500 CHICKPEAS, VALUE 4 000 MINIMUM Asia Million USD OF PRODUCTION � Value of production 3 500

has doubled from 3 000 2002 to 2013. 2 500 MAXIMUM 2 000 1 500 1990-2013 1 000

Average value 500 0

Million USD 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

04 MAXIMUM 2014 PRODUCTION OF 14 000 CHICKPEAS 12 000 Production has tripled in 15 years and is set 10 000 to further increase. 8 000 6 000 4 000 2001 2 000 0 THOUSAND TONNES MINIMUM THOUSAND TONNES

1996

1995 1997

1994 1998

1993

1999

1992 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS 2000 06 PER TYPE OF PULSE*

1991 2001 The region’s exports is modest 05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS

1990 compared with the volume of 2002 PER TYPE OF PULSE* 1,05 imports of pulses. The region is the largest

2013 2003 importer of pulses, especially in

2012 dried peas. 2004

2011

2005

2010 2006

2009 2007 2008

BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS DRIED TOTAL TOTAL DRIED LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS BEANS PEAS PEAS BEANS

THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES * Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed. 131 MUMBAI (INDIA) Chef Sanjeev Kapoor showing some pulses, in the kitchen of his restaurant, Sanjeev Kapoor. FROM INDIA TO THE WORLD

S A N J E E V KAPOOR, IN THE LAND OF THE DAALS

t is impossible to understand the world of dried pulses without India. It is the world’s largest producer of chickpeas, a leading producer of lentils and beans, and it has a massive population that treats pulses as an everyday staple food. Add to this its rich culinary past and present, as complex as the culture and climate of the states and territories making up the country.

This immense cultural heritage is evidenced in Ithe superb recipes by leading Indian celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor, who owns restaurants in virtually all of India’s large cities as well as further afield: Bahrain, Bangladesh, Gabon, Jordan, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, UAE and even Canada. He has made Indian cuisine a household name through his popular The Yellow Chilli chain right up to his haute cuisine signature brands, Sanjeev Kapoor and Khazana. In a territory of billions, he has literally carved himself a place in history as one of Asia’s most influential chefs. He reaches an audience of untold millions

133 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

with his Indian cookery programme Khana his companies are committed to gender equality Khazana, which has run for more than 23 years and supporting people with autism. Through his in over 2 000 episodes and is broadcasted to over unbridled capacity to communicate, this celebrity 100 countries. chef focuses on finding different ways for people to achieve a healthy and nutritious diet. Multimedia savvy Sanjeev Kapoor is the only And through this means, he seeks to prevent chef in the world with his own television disease caused by malnutrition and unhealthy channel, FoodFood. He has written 200 books eating habits. translated into seven languages, has millions of followers on social media and his website hosts “Food should be simple. I believe in combining 15 000 recipes. He takes part in events and TV the best of our traditions, the freshest local programmes with famous chefs throughout the ingredients, a bit of science and a dash of art. world and the Indian government has officially India is a land of daals (daals is simply the plural recognised him as the country’s top chef. As if of the Sanskrit word daal referring to dried that is not enough, he is a social entrepreneur – pulses with the outer hull stripped off, cooked

134 South and Chef Sanjeev Southeast Kapoor in front of his restaurant. Magadano dessert Asia� and some samples of pulses.

or mashed, or the dishes made with them) and ever since I was a boy, not a day has gone by when they have not been a part of my diet. My favourites are r a¯ j m a¯ (red kidney beans in a spicy curry) and pindi chole (a chickpea curry). Mung and mungo beans (green and black gram) are also very important to my cooking,” says Kapoor.

The chef also notes that, given the size of the country, what and how much people eat varies from region to region. Thus, mung and mungo beans are eaten more in the north, lentils and chickpeas in the east, and pigeon peas in the south and west. This fosters a great diversity of dishes which varies region to region,

135 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

although the philosophy behind them rarely The popular chef has successfully used dried changes. One finds basic dishes from each of pulses in recipes across the board: from salads these areas, such as daal tadka (a curry made and soups, to breads, stews and desserts, and with pigeon peas), sambhar (a vegetable and he professes that he loves experimenting with pulse curry) and osaman daal (a spicy soup made them since they “add a unique character to with pigeon peas). Incredibly, even with all this any dish, as well as having the added benefit choice, Kapoor says that Indian law dictates of their nutritional value.” Nowadays, Kapoor that products are clearly labelled either green is too busy to casually stroll through the or brown to distinguish vegetarian and non- markets selecting his vegetables and pulses. vegetarian dishes. But he recommends “A place close to my home, Parle market, in the Mumbai suburbs, “As a nation we love dried pulses and I am no where you can find any dried pulse you like.” exception,” says Kapoor, who goes on to say that He adds that “Sometimes people are fooled by they are “the best comfort food, especially when size when it comes to pulses, thinking larger homemade.” Although he loves all pulses, he is better. But in reality, you can often get a confesses a particular weakness for chickpeas. lot more taste from smaller grains and beans, He recommends “soaking them overnight and and if you have to choose between refined and cooking them in a pressure cooker until they are unrefined pulses, you should always choose so soft that they melt in your mouth.” the latter.”

136 137 KARACHI (PAKISTÁN) Chef Zubaida Tariq in her home. IN THE LAND WHERE CHICKPEAS GROW

ZUBAIDA TARIQ, PULSES TRIED AND TRUE

akistan is the world’s third largest producer of chickpeas, and it is also a significant consumer of lentils. The words chana (chickpea) and daal (lentil) recur time and again in Pakistani cuisine, and yet agronomists are always hard at work, looking for ways to produce even bigger and better harvests of pulses.

PThe country has produced many highly respected chefs, but Zubaida Tariq (born in Hyderabad Deccan in 1945) deserves a special place amongst them. As a TV chef and authority on food, she has been followed faithfully by millions of viewers for over 20 years. Although born in India, in the region currently comprising the states of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Maharastra, she grew up in an affluent family of Urdu speakers that has produced a bevy of talented writers, artists and intellectuals. Her siblings are deceased novelist and playwright Fatima Surayya Bajia, poet Zehra Nigah, fashion designer Sughra Kazmi and the renowned television host and humourist Anwar Maqsood Hameedi. The first years of Zubaida’s life coincided with the end of British rule Chef Tariq on the subcontinent, and she moved to Pakistan with arrives at the Empress her family in 1947, the year it gained independence market. following the partition of India.

139 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Known affectionately as Zubaida Apa (meaning Chef Zubaida Tariq “big sister” in Urdu), she came to cooking preparing and mixing ingredients with pulses. relatively late in life. However, when she did, she bloomed, to the point that she is now an undeniable reference point for cooking across the region. This is largely due to her numerous appearances on radio and television, such as the popular show Handi, on the food channel Masala TV. “When I married at 21, I couldn’t cook a single dish. My mother, who was good at many things, had taught us to push ourselves to achieve whatever it is we desired, but she didn’t teach me to cook. So once I decided I wanted to cook well, I took her advice and taught myself, by trial and error. Little by little, I realised that a lot of people liked what I cooked,” she says.

Zubaida Apa has captivated audiences with her personal style of cooking, based on traditional Pakistani cuisine and prepared with simple ingredients, such as the country’s ever-present pulses. Her popular recipe books, including her take on dishes such as the national favourite

140 South and Southeast Asia�

Chef Zubaida Tariq showing her Award for cooking and talking with her guests at her residence before lunch. Selecting vegetables and serving up portions of pulses.

141 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

daal masala, are highly influential in home This popular TV personality has won over cooking throughout Pakistan. Through her the entire country with both her cooking and tried and true recipes, regional specialities beauty tips, and she is convinced that “plant- have made their way around the world. based ingredients make a kitchen come alive.” “Dishes such as chana chaat and murgh cholay Although she says that it is easy to find pulses in are popular all year round. Lobias (black- Pakistan both in supermarkets and from street eyed peas) are excellent together with a vendors, she prefers to go to the Empress Market light tamarind paste or a fresh tomato sauce, in Karachi, “first-thing in the morning, when the whether with a chapati (a type of wholewheat traders are setting up their stalls and goods are flatbread) or as a dressing. Lima beans can only just arriving. In just one trip I know I can be eaten fried, Chinese style. Masoor (pink get all of the ingredients I need, at the best price lentils) and mung beans (green gram) can be and also the best quality.” stewed with spices and then mixed with rice or curry. Daal mash is very popular, but it is more “Pakistani pulses have taken on their own of a celebration food.” Amongst her favourite personality in the food of the sub-continent, dishes are, of course, pulses. “At home I like to but we need to have a wider range of vegetarian eat keema (a minced mutton curry with peas) dishes and eat far less meat in our diet. We can with rice, papri chaat and daal,” she confesses. do creative things with pulses, with all manner “In fact, daal is a food that should always be on of ingredients. We can boil them, stew them, the dining table: it is healthy, cheap, nutritious layer them, turn them into fritters, vegetable and tasty.” kebabs, and so much more.”

142 143 FAO AÑO INTERNACIONAL DE LAS LEGUMBRES FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

07 THE FAR EAST AND THE PACIFIC 1 022 01 QUANTITY PRODUCED BY TYPE OF PULSE

Broad beans, dried peas and beans are the top pulses produced in this region. 1990

1 610 400,80 1 563 1 355 705,71 1992

2001 2 488

145 145

13 13 2010-2014

1 562

BROAD BEANS DRIED PEAS LENTILS OTHER COWPEAS CHICKPEAS Thousand tonnes BEANS PULSES 1992 1 032

978 969 940

02 VALUE OF PULSES OVER

TOTAL AGRICULTURE 710

In these years, the value of pulses

shrank to just one third overall.

AVERAGE

0,76% 0,41 1990 244

3 2,5 0,27%

2 2013 18 17 1,5 9 2 3 2

1 0 0,5 0,27%

2012

0,27% 2010

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

144 The Far East and the Pacífic�

FEEDING BILLIONS OF MOUTHS IN THE YEARS TO COME

In some countries of the sorghum and a single pulse, the Far East, dried pulses soya bean, the prominence of which like chickpeas, lentils in the region has been immense in countries like China, Japan, and beans of the genus Republic of Korea (South Korea) Phaseolus are largely and Taiwan. Another pulse, of the regarded as exotic, genus Vigna, the mung bean, is also prevalent, having spread throughout at least as far as everyday domestic the region after originating in Asia. use is concerned. This mainly stems from a subsistence farming tradition But this does not mean that that since ancient times has chickpeas, lentils or Phaseolus revolved around wheat, rice, millet, beans are not produced or

1 The FAO does not consider species used for oil extraction, like soya beans, to be a pulse.

145 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

1

2

3

5

BEIJING (CHINA) 1. Young girl leaving the market. 2. and 5. A selection of pulses at the market. 3. Chinese chef She Zengtai chatting to a neighbour. 4. Shopper buying ginger at the market. 6. and 7. Different scenes at the market. 4

146 The Far East and the Pacífic�

consumed in the Far East and Oceania. China is one of the world’s leading bean producers, while Australia is a major lentil and chickpea grower. The varied weather conditions of this vast region — even with violent phenomena like monsoons — and its immense farms have enabled competitive pulse cultivation. Japan, South Korea and Taiwan consume large quantities of dried mung beans and black gram (also of the genus Vigna), used in a wealth of traditional dishes. This may in part be due to the influence of western cultures that have left their mark since the early contact between civilisations, through the long colonial period, to the recent era of globalisation.

6 However, there are also many varieties of dried pulses that are eaten locally in certain countries or regions, such as the Vigna umbellata, or ricebean, originating in Papua New Guinea and consumed in southern China and Nepal. Others are only used for specific recipes such as certain desserts, like the sweet adzuki bean originating in East Asia (originally cultivated in the Himalayas), which is widely used in Japan and China to make red bean paste.

Nepalese cuisine, meanwhile, has the traditional kwa¯ti soup, eaten during the Gun Punhi festival and made from no fewer than nine types of pulse; some dried and others 7 fresh, including chickpeas,

147 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES In Japan, during the Bunsei and Ansei eras, silver coins were minted in the shape of beans or peanuts.

One of the most famous scenes in the popular video game Super Mario Bros, created by Shigeru Miyamoto for the Japanese company Nintendo, is the Beanbean Kingdom, inhabited by beings in the form of beans.

The Shanghai Institute of BEIJING (CHINA) Endocrinology, Jiaotong University, Market seller the Ruijin Hospital and other handling celery stalks. Chinese institutions are researching the weight-loss properties of chickpeas. Their studies are inspired by the use of this pulse in traditional black-eyed peas, black gram and soybean, a product that was rare in Uighur medicine from Xinjiang, mung beans. This mountainous the West until the second half of the an autonomous region of country is also a major producer twentieth century, despite having northwest China. of lentils, which are often used arrived in Europe in the seventeenth Bottled dried pea soups are in daal bhat along with rice, one century. The Chinese were early very popular in China, one of the of the most widespread culinary Neolithic farmers, developing highly world’s leading producers of this combinations across much of advanced agriculture systems in dry pulse. Asia. In China’s Uighur regions, later periods, as mentioned in the Mongolia and eastern Russia, pulses records of the Emperor Sheng Nung. Pulses are used in the East to are not commonly consumed, but make desserts. Eight-treasure rice occasionally appear in certain Chinese cuisine is as complex and pudding is a Chinese dessert made dishes, such as the Russian salad as vast as the country’s territory. from peanuts and dried red beans. vinaigrette, with white beans, Today, global trends toward or in Mongolian kashk, which is fusion food and the cosmopolitan The Australian filmmaker Trevor Graham produced the sometimes made with mung beans. nature of cities like Hong Kong, documentary Make Hummus Not Macau and Shanghai, have led to War, in which he delves into the hotly In Oceania, and particularly across a cultural shift towards pulses in debated provenance of hummus. He the many Pacific Islands, there is the region. China’s major cities puts forward the idea that it could even no great tradition of eating pulses, have started to adopt a variety be used to resolve the conflicts between though nowadays they are being of international culinary habits the Lebanese, Israelis and Palestinians, consumed more and more. Australia and trends making it easy to find who have disputed the origin of this dish and New Zealand have both moved pulses, such as those seen on the before international courts. toward becoming major producers menus in increasingly popular responding to the influence of Spanish and Mexican restaurants. In New Zealand, organic pulse global gastronomic trends. Despite China’s large-scale farming proliferates, in particular production of lentils and beans of lentils, dried chickpeas, mung beans and adzuki beans, establishing the country As for China, the world’s most the genus Phaseolus, these crops are as a major food supplier in populous country and the third primarily grown for export and it is Oceania for the future. largest by land mass, pulse growing less easy to find them in street has always centred around the markets as one might expect.

148 The Far East 03 and the BROAD BEAN, Pacífic � Million USD VALUE OF MAXIMUM PRODUCTION 1 022 Production value has fluctuated greatly over the years.

1990

1990-2013 MINIMUM Average 1 610 value 400,80 1 563 1 355 705,71 Million USD 1992

04

PRODUCTION MAXIMUM OF BROAD BEAN Fluctuating in the early 1990s, 2001 2 488 production levels have stabilised 145 145 in recent years.

13 13 2010-2014

1 562

THOUSAND TONNES MINIMUM 1992 1 032 THOUSAND TONNES

978 05 QUANTITY OF 969 940 IMPORTS PER TYPE

OF PULSE* 710

Dried peas are most 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS imported type of pulse in PER TYPE OF PULSE*

this region. This region’s highest exports are

different varieties of beans.

0,76% 0,41 1990 244

0,27%

18 17 2013 9 2 3 2

0,27% 0

2012 BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS PEAS TOTAL TOTAL PEAS LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS

BEANS BEANS

0,27% 2010 THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

* Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed. 149 BEIJING (CHINA) The renowned Chinese chef She Zhengtai showing off a bean roulade dish in his Beijing home.

150 THE KINGDOM OF THE THOUSAND YEAR-OLD PULSE

S H E Z E N G T A I , T I M E TRAVELLER

he culinary history of the family of the honourable chef She Zengtai, born in Beijing in 1955, dates back to 1404, during the Ming Dynasty reign of the Yongle Emperor. Twenty- two generations have passed on their knowledge, uninterrupted. “Many recipes that I have inherited from my ancestors,” he explains, T“are over a century old, and some are several hundred years old. The dishes, of course, have been perfected through exploration and the Chef She at creativity of my ancestors.” The fact that this work as his culinary heritage has survived through time is wife looks on. in itself a credit to chef She. After all, preservation of the family trade is part of the complex and ancient history of Chinese cuisine, a tradition spanning over 5 000 years with huge global influence. Chef She has been appointed by the Chinese Government to be the custodian of this intangible cultural heritage.

She, now retired from the everyday activity of professional kitchens, but a fixture on cookery programmes, is a living encyclopaedia of Chinese cuisine. He is able to reel off the uses and customs of each region of this

151 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

immense country one by one, describing the contents of dishes. Experience has shown us reasons for each technique, habit or ingredient. that replacing a certain amount of animal Throughout his career, he has prepared produce with dried pulses is the best way to countless banquets for political and business solve the two-way, paradoxical problem of leaders, but he has never forgotten his bond global malnutrition and over-nutrition.” with the countryside or his calling to serve the people. Before learning the ins and outs of Despite the predominance of soybeans in the profession from his father, She Chonglu, a China, She explains that the volume of grand master of Hui cuisine, he worked on the production of other pulses is quite high Xiaojialin farm unit as an engine driver. in the country. Once, when involved in an exhibition on culinary history organised by his “As society develops and quality of life country’s government, many of the traditional improves,” says chef She, “people begin to ingredients shown were dried pulses. This attach more importance to health. As cooks, provoked surprise among the younger we must keep up with the times by creating generation of chefs yet received praise from the healthy, nutritious dishes and sharing them Chinese culinary community. “They are now with society. We have to adjust our cooking iconic products that we Chinese chefs can take methods, like using high temperatures, which abroad with pride, as a manifestation of what can destroy many nutrients, but also the future global cuisine must be. Excluding dried

152 The Far East and the Pacífic�

Chef She making bean roulade.

153 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

pulses from our diet is a serious mistake and it pulses are very versatile. I use them in 20% of leads to a terrible nutritional imbalance. Dried my cooking, married with meat and vegetables, pulses help us reduce fat levels and strengthen as well as tofu. To cook them, I like to use a our immune system. They contain protein, pressure cooker, but then, depending on the amino acids, carbohydrates, B vitamins, dish, other methods can be used,” he explains. carotene and inorganic salts like calcium, phosphorous, iron, potassium and magnesium, As for buying pulses in his area, She explains, but they have a low sodium content,” says chef “I get pulses in Beijing from places like the She, who, in addition to being a renowned great Niujie Muslim Market, where there is a cook is an expert in traditional Chinese strong affinity with these products, sometimes medicinal foods. at the Lotte Mart supermarket, and also in the Dongcheng district. You won’t find much She Zengtai is an innovator who has difference in the price of the products, but the reconciled the rituals of Hui and halal cuisine, important thing is to make sure of the quality. investigating their dietary taboos while finding Every time I go, I meticulously select the pulses creative new ways to achieve ethnic culinary and do a lot of comparing before buying. A perfection. “I like using soybeans, peas, red recipe should always be tackled using the adzuki beans and mung beans. All of these right ingredients.”

154 155 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

08 NORTH OF AFRICA 01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED BY TYPE OF PULSE (AVERAGE 2010 - 2013) Broad beans is North Africa’s top crop.

1991

BROADBEANS OTHER CHICKPEAS BEANS DRIED PEAS LENTILS COWPEAS VETCHES LUPINES PULSES

Thousand tonnes 2012 02 VALUE OF PULSES OVER THE TOTAL

OF AGRICULTURE

In these years, the value

of pulses has fluctuated,

while on a decreasing

trend. In 2013, the value of

pulses fell to a third of their AVERAGE value of 1994.

1,09

3 2,5

2 1,5 1

0,5

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

156 North Africa�

PULSES AND THE SANDS OF TIME

There are practically as Peninsula, before spreading many pulses in North across most of the Mediterranean Africa as there are sand during various military campaigns. While the Islamic dunes in the Sahara, conquest of the Maghreb brought but it is the chickpea still other pulses to the region, that stands alone. it reaffirmed the chickpea’s predominance as a food staple. In all probability they arrived in the region in ancient times with Coming from a hostile the Phoenicians who brought with geographical context in which them numerous vegetable species. inhabitants have always had to outsmart the desert, the From the legendary city of Tyre, dry chickpea has steadfastly the Phoenicians founded the remained a reliable food Punic State, with Carthage as its source for the region’s nomadic capital in what is now Tunisia. tribes. Thanks in part to its From there, the chickpea migrated unquestionable nutritional to Western Europe via the Iberian value and long shelf life,

157 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF P ULSES

the diplomatic pulse helped eliminate boundaries by sharing a culinary tradition across the continent – from the Western Sahara to Alexandria.

In this region, Berber cuisine offers highly nutritious dishes such as chakhchoukha, a mixture of rougag bread and marqa, a lamb, vegetable and chickpea stew. While these recipes find their roots in Algerian cuisine, they take on variations throughout the area, such as lablabi, a Tunisian soup.

It is virtually impossible to 1 pinpoint the geographical place of birth of the domesticated pulses of North Africa – most likely it occurred in various places at once. What we can be certain about is that along the Nile Valley, long before the pharaohs, in Neolithic times, the soil fertilised with lime from the river played a decisive role in leading to the emergence of one of the most fascinating civilisations in human history. In Egyptian hieroglyphics, a symbol resembling three dots is a distinct reference to seeds, quite 2 possibly pulses, which were the main source of protein for these MARRAKESH (MOROCCO) inhabitants of ancient Egypt. They At Mellah market: 1. Sacks of dried subsisted primarily on chickpeas, pulses 3. Sack of dried split green broad beans and lentils. In the peas. 4. Dried and tinned goods Dra’ Abu el-Naga’ necropolis shop. 5. Fishmonger. 6. Fresh Fava Beans. 7. Dried white beans. near Thebes, funeral offerings 2. Orange juice stall. Djema el Fna, in the form of lentil cakes have a UNESCO World heritage Site. been found, and it is widely

158 3

4

5

6

7 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES Throughout North Africa, the traditional first meal for a mother after giving birth is Trid, a dish rich in energy-boosting carbohydrates. It is made of lentils, chickpeas and beans, and considered the best tonic for a woman who from that point on will need to breastfeed her baby.

Cumin is a common spice in all North African cuisine and is virtually indispensable in all pulse dishes, not just for its flavour. It also helps to prevent gases from forming in the gut, owing to the fact that it is a carminative.

Chef Mohamed Carminatives are found in a Fedal with his wide range of herbs and spices Gardener, in Riat including caraway, coriander, dill, near Marrakesh. epazote, liquorice, fennel, ginger, lemon grass, mint, nutmeg, basil, marjoram, oregano, aniseed and rosemary. Not only do they accepted that lentils were one of where chickpeas almost always neutralise bacteria in the gut that the most highly prized pulses. feature. In the traditional harira creates gases, they also offer a Frescoes from the Nineteenth soup, in addition to chickpeas, terrific range of great flavourings. Dynasty of Egypt show a servant dried peas and lentils add further cooking these pulses, while the substance, particularly during While seasoning and spices city of Phacusa was known as the the winter months. Pulses also are employed to silence (so to “City of lentils”. feature in the hearty broad speak) some of the effects of bean purée, bissara, a mainstay pulses, some professional chefs in Algeria, Egypt, Libya, Morocco of communities in the Atlas North Africa also try to ensure they and Tunisia are countries where Mountains. In Moroccan markets, are easily digestible by way of preparation. Starting with pulses play a central role in their street vendors sell cornets of discarding the water they’re soaked cuisines (with Sudan, perhaps, steamed chickpeas dusted with in, but also the water they are first the only regional exception). In cumin, in the same way that boiled in (both of these contain addition to a variety of chickpea chips are sold at fairs in Western substances that gas-causing dishes such as hummus and countries. Another culinary feature bacteria feed on). Then, they put falafel, lentils are also common, are kiosks where cooks prepare pulses in new water before the real in salads, purées and stews. kalinti, or karane, using chickpea task of creating the meal Significant, too, is the nutritional flour, a speciality of Sephardic commences. value they provide people origin. It is served in rolls or during the month of Ramadan, paper bags as a fortifying snack During the holy month of Ramadan, fasting is often broken when eating is forbidden during for workers or school children. with harira or chorba, a soup daylight hours. Also for Moroccans, lentils are made with chickpeas, lentils, beans standard fare in stews and salads and peas. In Morocco, pulses are especially prepared in households and for prominent in dishes such as tagine, important celebrations.

160 North 03 Africa � MAXIMUM BROAD BEANS. VALUE OF MINIMUM PRODUCTION Production value has remained fairly constant. Million USD

1990-2013 Average value Million USD

1991 04 MAXIMUM PRODUCTION OF BROAD BEANS In general, production has decreased in these years.

2012 MINIMUM THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS

PER TYPE OF PULSE* PER TYPE OF PULSE*

Imports are 8 times more than North Africa exports a very

North Africa’s exports of pulses. modest quantity of pulses.

1,09

BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS PEAS TOTAL TOTAL PEAS LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS

BEANS BEANS

THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

* Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed. 161 MOHA AND THE JEWELS OF THE TAGINE

MARRAKESH, (MOROCCO) Chef Mohamed Fedal. next page: Selecting legumes at the Mellah market. A PROPHET OF PULSES

MOHA AND THE JEWELS OF THE TAGINE

he Swiss Vieux-Bois restau- rant, part of the École Hote- lière Genève, is located opposite the United Nations headquarters in Geneva. Due to its proximity, culinary integrity and cosmopolitan service, with students from over 40 countries, its dining rooms host a mainly interna- tional clientele. It must be one of the most efficient “hands-on” hospitality schools in Europe, with Trestaurants and gardens open to the public. Its versatile students, studying cookery, hospitality and restaurant management are trained to become both chefs and managers.

Mohamed Fedal came to the Vieux-Bois for three years at the age of 18, (1985-1988). He remained in Europe where a culinary revolution was underway in the early 1990s before gaining experience in the kitchens of famous North American hotels. Ultimately, homesickness brought him back to his native Marrakesh. Mohamed Fedal, known in professional circles as Moha, now 30, purchased the home of French fashion designer Pierre Balmain, located in Dar El Bacha, his childhood neighbourhood, near the Medina of Marrakesh. And in 1999, he opened the Dar Moha Restaurant, where he returned to the fundamentals of

163 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

traditional Moroccan cuisine. While adding some or black – they nourish and crown a tagine like innovative touches to his dishes, he set out to earn diamonds, rubies or emeralds.” Intangible Cultural Heritage status for his country’s culinary traditions. Moha’s enthusiasm for pulses is not purely a romantic notion. Some six kilometres from the It is in the flavours harking back to his childhood centre of Marrakesh, he runs the Riad Le Bled, a rural where Moha’s taste for pulses lies. Along with hotel on a three-hectare estate. There, he provides couscous, argan oil and the indispensable ras accommodation and dining areas for banquets and el hanout, that combines up to 40 spices, they celebrations. But first and foremost, the orchards, form the basis of his inspiration as a chef. It’s a vegetable gardens and the pulses that are grown and way of cooking learned at his mother’s side, a dried there are used to supply his restaurants with master chef in a family of painters and artisans. the beloved chickpeas, green beans, broad beans, “As a boy, I learned that pulses are the jewels peas and lentils that feature heavily in his dishes. of Maghreb cuisine. Because of their variety and colour – dried beans and peas, chickpeas Moha Fedal is now leading a revolution in Moroccan or lentils; round, flat or long; green, red, yellow cuisine, a challenge that he tackles by sharing

164 North Africa�

Chef Fedal preparing a dish with pulses in the kitchen of his restaurant, Bled.

165 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

his vision and know-how, and providing practical Moha Fedal is a winner of the Vermeil Medal of the training in the kitchen to future professionals, French Academy of Arts, Sciences and Letters, an including schoolchildren; educating them on food accolade recognising understanding and dialogue and culinary self-sufficiency. As a professional and between cultures and societies. He is the author of teacher, he asks himself a question: “If choosing cookbooks, such as The Flavour of Morocco, Moha’s forces you to give something up, why choose Kitchen, and others, all of them published in France between tradition and modernity when you can where he is highly regarded as a top chef. He is often combine the two trends harmoniously?” Morocco’s official representative at international culinary exhibitions, a Moroccan Master Chef judge In his quest for a lighter cuisine, he refines quantities and, every Sunday at 10 am, he participates in the and adds nuances. Under his guiding hand, radio programme Family Kitchen. revamped hariras, hummus and pulse salads take on a new form without succumbing to products In 2015, Moha brought his carefully orchestrated or condiments from outside Morocco’s traditional updates of traditional Moroccan culture to the World’s culinary culture. Doing so would globalise them and Fair in Milan. There, he presented Moroccan cuisine strip them of their identity. At the same time and at a universal stage that focused on soil, nutrition and ironically, his pulse recipes have achieved an even the right to a healthy and adequate diet. broader appeal. Naturally, pulses played a starring role.

166 167 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

09 WESTERN AND CENTRAL AFRICA

1990 6 397 5 252

1 044 3 671.08 848 962.8 571 567

01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED 2009 BY TYPE OF PULSE 1 726.62 282 This region boasts with the greatest variety and

quantity of pulses. 137 122 2012 7 939 17

COWPEAS BEANS OTHER BROAD DRIED PEAS CHICKPEAS VETCHES LENTILS LUPINES PULSES BEANS Thousand tonnes

2010-2014 02 VALUE OF PULSES OVER THE TOTAL 6 396 OF AGRICULTURE 1990 2 047 Pulses had a bumper crop in this region in 2012 but

fell to its usual production

levels in 2013.

631

518

AVERAGE

2.81 265 260

187 136

3 89 34 45 2,5 6 8 13

2 1,5

1

0,5 3.97% 2012 2.35% 2011

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

168 Western and Central Africa� FOOD IN THE CRADLE OF AFRICA

Just as Africa is groups originating in Western Africa, and whose migration considered the throughout history is vital for us umbilical of modern to understand modern day Africa. humans, Incipient knowledge of farming, metalwork and advanced skills palaeobotanists believe1 it is also with ceramics gave Bantu people a where, more than 60 million years territorial advantage, and as they ago, the evolutionary jump took travelled to southern and eastern place that gave rise to pulses Africa they took their knowledge – though quite different to the with them. They were able to grow pulses we know and love today. crops on land that seemed barren, and this achievement would form The term Bantu (which originally the foundation of many of the meant “person” or “human”) refers important states in the region over to a significant number of ethnic time: the Nri and Kaabu

1 Other theories suggest that this process happened in the Americas, in the semi-arid land corridors of the Tethys Ocean, during the Paleogene period. None of these have been proven conclusively, but most agree that pulses began in the Cenozoic Era.

169 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

kingdoms, the empires of Oyo, Benin, Bamana and Ashanti, the Sokoto Caliphate and Nok culture.

Cereals, tubers and certain pulses were the base of their diet, and led to one of the great themes of Sub-Saharan cuisine: nutritional purées, often used as sauces or sides for meat dishes, or even as a simple dressing. Later, the colonisation of the Americas created and strengthened an important link with western Africa, with products of every kind travelling in both directions. In the process, sometimes something new would be created, and sometimes it simply helped develop what was already there. This is the case with black-eyed peas travelling to the Americas; most likely first farmed in western Africa. While contact with colonial powers resulted in certain pulse dishes being adopted in Africa. This is the case of feijoada, a popular dish in African countries that were under Portuguese influence, such as Angola and Cabo Verde. The latter is an island nation, and a type of bean stew called cachupa is its national dish.

There is no doubt that in the countries of central and western Africa, pulses are eclipsed by other food groups both in terms of production and consumption. Rice, millet, maize, cassava, sweet potatoes and yams are all common in their diet, as well as meat, from both livestock DAKAR (SENEGAL) and wild animals. Nonetheless, it is also true that some dried People shopping in the market of pulses are frequently found in Grand Dakar. the region’s cuisine, often as

170 Western and central Africa� FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

2

1

3

4

5

6

DAKAR (SENEGAL) 1. A woman buys wax print fabric at the Grand Dakar market. 2. Employee cooking beans in a food stall. 3. Washing beans prior to cooking. 4. Beans simmering in a sauce. 5. Children shopping at the Grand Dakar market. 6. Bassirou Gueye making a bean sandwich. 7. Daba Diop making an egg and bean sandwich for customers. 8. Bassirou Gueye pouring coffee for customers.

172 Western and central Africa�

7 8 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

CURIOSITIES

Senegal cooking includes black-eyed peas, lentil stews, and ndambé, a sandwich made from stewed beans in a very spicy tomato sauce – served up for breakfast.

Nigeria is Africa’s largest country by population and one of the world’s largest producers of pulses. Nigerian cuisine features a number of dishes that include beans, such as the pudding moimoi (called tubaani in Ghana) and acarajé fritters, both made with black-eyed peas.

Pinto beans are consumed widely in Ghana and Chad, especially DAKAR in the south. Both countries share many (SENEGAL) dishes, with Ghana using beans in a Haricot beans variety of ways, such as red-red stew, a imported from type of homemade baked bean dish France in the Grand made with black-eyed peas, adzuki Dakar market. beans, palm oil and spices.

Lesotho, Niger and Sierra Leone all produce and consume significant a side dish, in sauces or stews. and more, with dried pulses. quantities of dried peas. Pigeon peas One such pulse is peanuts, Although both crop agriculture and Bambara beans are also grown which are not often classified and livestock rearing in Africa and eaten in Burkina Faso, Chad, as such, used in moambe, first came to being in the Sahel Ghana, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, Togo bambara and ndolé. Rice and (the semi-arid region bordering and Mali. In fact, the name Bambara bean dishes are also common in the Sahara), a number of events comes from Mali’s Bambara language. local cuisine, such as Congolese have influenced Mali’s move Certain autochthonous dried loso na madesu, which goes toward pulses: climate change, pulses such as Macrotyloma by the name of waakye in its desertification and the lack geocarpum (also called ground beans Ghanaian variant. of easy access to water have, and similar to peanuts) are important over the centuries, created real in the diet of Benin. It is within this context that problems for Mali in terms of the predominantly agricultural farming, and this has had lasting Among the worldclass chefs country of Mali has become effects up to the present day. The hailing from Western and Central increasingly interested in dried country’s diversification of its Africa are Cyril Agbachom, who pulses as a necessary foodstuff, agriculture has proven effective works at Quilox in Lagos (Nigeria) increasing its production of in reducing rates of malnutrition. and Gbubemi ‘Fregz’ Fregene, who pulses over the past decade. With the growing consumption trained at France’s Le Cordon Bleu and is now a specialist in providing Although cereals are still the of dried pulses, and with them quality catering services. main crop in Mali, these of the micronutrients they provide, course have to be supplemented the future is looking much with dairy products or, more brighter for Mali.

174 Million USD

03

BEANS. VALUE OF PRODUCTION The value of this crop has nearly quadrupled in 1990 6 397 the time span shown. 5 252 MAXIMUM 1 044 MINIMUM 3 671.08 848 1990-2013 962.8 571 Average 567 value

1 726.62 2009 282 Million USD 137 122 MAXIMUM 2012 7 939 17 04

PRODUCTION

OF BEANS

Increasing steadily over the years and fluctuating wildly from 2012 to 2014.

2010-2014 6 396 THOUSAND TONNES 1990 2 047 THOUSAND TONNES MINIMUM 05 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS QUANTITY OF IMPORTS PER TYPE OF PULSE* PER TYPE OF PULSE*

Beans and peas are the main 631 The volume of export is

products imported. 518 marginally greater than imports.

2.81 265 260

187 136

89 34 45 6 8 13

BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS PEAS TOTAL TOTAL PEAS LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS

3.97% BEANS BEANS 2012 2.35% 2011 THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

* Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed. 175 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

1994 10 EAST AND SOUTHERN AFRICA

407,85

3 939 847 864,93 567 550 535 2012 444 590

282 01 QUANTITIES PRODUCED

BY TYPE OF PULSE A wide variety of pulses are grown in this region. 137 122 2013 4 593 17

BEANS BROAD BEANS CHICKPEAS DRIED OTHER COWPEAS VETCHES LENTILS LUPINES GREEN PEAS PULSES Thousand tonnes

02 VALUE OF PULSES 2010-2014 OVER THE TOTAL OF AGRICULTURE 3 939 1994 1 652 Although less than its 1993 levels, the 3,70% value of pulses has 1993

not changed since

2004.

592

397 AVERAGE

3,21 219

3 181 2,5 164 136

2 2,82% 89 29 45 1,5 2012 6 5 8 1

0,5

2,82%

2004

Maximum value Minimum value Percentage (%)

176 East and southern Africa�

THE JOURNEY OF PULSES TO THE CRADLE OF HUMANITY

In the cultural history that these plants are the most common of the inhabitants spontaneously generating species in of the savannah and the continent’s jungles and dry forests. There is no doubt that the first human plateau ecosystems, inhabitants of East Africa made use agriculture was a latecomer: of these pulses as food early on and hunter-gatherers were the norm began to store them, even if their in these regions up until some domestication proved impracticable 2000 years ago. Then the model for nomadic tribes. But pulses helped changed, probably due to the them ensure an adequate diet with low arrival of Bantu tribes from the dependence on animal protein. This is centre of the continent. The evidenced by basic traditional recipes agricultural knowledge and of high nutritional value that have command of foraging that these been passed down from generation newcomers brought with them to generation, such as the Kenyan revolutionised the region. Kikuyu’s irio, a purée of cereals and pulses. Some palaeobotanical theories place the origin of the Fabaceae family Today, beans of all kinds feature squarely in Africa. They even argue heavily in the regional cuisines

177 1 2

KARATU (TANZANIA) Veronica Jackson Tanzanian chef. East and southern Africa�

of East Africa, both of the Phaseolus genus, including black-eyed peas or adzuki beans, and other families such 3 as pigeon peas. Not to ignore of course pulses native to the continent like Bambara beans (originally from West Africa) and lablabs (njahi in the Kikuyu language). In Rwanda, beans are usually cooked in large pots and stored in a variety of ways while in Burundi, pinto beans are a daily staple, often combined with potatoes. Kenyans like to eat them with yucca and in Uganda they prefer them with sesame paste, sim-sim, but also in stews like their famous kikomando recipe.

The region’s tribal cuisines combine some unique ingredients with pulses. The Masai, for instance, use cow’s milk or blood, and some tribes even use insects such as termites or mopane worms, sautéed with lima beans and sadza flour, undoubtedly a good source of protein. Another 4 important region is the Horn of Africa, an area that has experienced serious challenges when it comes to food, and where carbohydrates from the omnipresent ugali porridge are the perfect complement to dry pulses. The shahan ful recipe, a similar dish to the Egyptian ful medames, calls for combining them with vitamin-rich raw vegetables and lemon.

South African cuisine has also contributed its fair share of 5 specialities using pulses to African cuisine, such as the hard-to- KARATU (TANZANIA) pronounce Bantu dish, umngqusho. 1. 3. and 4. Selection of different pulses in the market. The xhosa variation was Nelson 2. Chef Veronica Jackson shopping for pulses at the market. 5. Pulses growing at the Kitela Lodge farmstead. Mandela’s favourite recipe. Influenced by European and

179 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

The hand of Chef Jackson with a handful of peas at the Karatu market. CURIOSITIES On Kenya’s central highlands, a dairy industry has emerged thanks to fodder enriched with pulses. Indirectly, these plants are improving the nutritional quality of the milk and in turn, the quality of life of local subsistence farmers and their animals.

Trials introducing native South African pulse varieties to parts of Australia have been successful, contributing to the rise in pulse consumption in Oceania.

Githeri, a Kenyan dish of sweetcorn and pulses is always associated with the “mother.” It is one of the healthiest specialities of southeast African cuisine and remains a staple among the Kikuyu and Meru ethnic groups. Throughout the 20th century it is a mainstay of school Asian cuisine, South Africa boasts strong agricultural industries, menus in versions that also include a tradition of pulse dishes such as such as Kenya and Uganda. There, tubers. It is equally popular among the popular sheep’s trotters or pork broad beans are an ever-present young people and diners of high-end and beans. accompaniment in traditional restaurants. homemade cooking — along with Madagascan cuisine, influenced ugali, rice and the vegetable known Southern Africa grows some by the busy trade with America as mchicha, a type of amaranth. They native pulse varieties that are rare starting in the sixteenth century are always prepared simply with just in other regions. These include: the and with Asia long before then, a touch of salt, pepper and, at most, small-grained Vigna vexillata or the Tylosema esculentum, which combines a variety of preparations a little tomato. The cooked beans inhabitants of the Kalahari call the and products, from pork and are eaten with minimal garnish and marama bean, sometimes used as a Bambara bean stews to pots accompanied by animal protein, be it rich source of a milk similar to soya; of lima beans with potatoes. fish or meat. the Guibourtia coleosperma or Of course, in a country with a Bubinga tree, with edible seeds that Portuguese colonial history like For the African continent, with its serve medical purposes; or the Mozambique, feijoada features. infinite nature reserves made up Canavalia ensifolia and the Bauhinia And travelling further east, to of savannahs, forests, mountains petersiana, pulses that can also act the Seychelles archipelago in and beaches, its countless protected as a coffee substitute. the Indian Ocean, lentil dishes animal species and over 120 tribes The development of are commonplace. and scattered ethnic groups, their agrotourism in the north of abundant production of pulses Tanzania, near the volcanic regions of Tanzania is distinguished as one serve not only as an excellent the Ngorongoro, is fuelling an interest of the world’s leading producers source of food and nutrition for in unusual pulses among foodies of dry beans. In fact it’s Africa’s the population, but also as an interested in ethnic cuisine. top producer, well over and above efficient way of preserving this other countries in the region with unique ecosystem.

180 03 1994 Million USD BEANS. VALUE MINIMUM OF PRODUCTION The value of production 407,85 has remained steady. 3 939 MAXIMUM 847 864,93 1990-2013 567 550 535 Average 2012 value 444 590

282 Million USD 137 122 MAXIMUM 2013 4 593 17 04

BEAN

PRODUCTION

Production levels saw a sharp drop in 2012 and recovered in recent years. 2010-2014

3 939 1994 1 652 THOUSAND TONNES 3,70% MINIMUM THOUSAND TONNES 1993 05 QUANTITY OF IMPORTS 06 QUANTITY OF EXPORTS PER TYPE OF PULSE* PER TYPE OF PULSE*

The region imports 20% less Beans, followed by dried peas

592 than its exports. and chickpeas are top exports.

397

3,21 219

181 164 136

2,82% 89 29 45 2012 6 5 8

2,82% BEANS BROAD CHICKPEAS LENTILS DRIED TOTAL TOTAL DRIED LENTILS CHICKPEAS BROAD BEANS

2004 BEANS PEAS PEAS BEANS

THOUSAND TONNES THOUSAND TONNES

* Average 2009-2013. The figure for total exports and imports include other pulses that are not listed. 181 KARATU (TANZANIA) Chef Veronica Jackson. T H E P U L S E OF THE SAVANNAH

V E R O N I C A J A C K S O N : M A S A I SENSITIVITY

t the foot of the Ngorongoro Crater in northern Tanzania are nestled the Tanganyika Wilderness Camps. The camps are set within large tracts of land earmarked for long term environmental protection and sustainable development.A The aim is to promote green tourism and authentic experiences in an age-old atmosphere. Visitors can enjoy East Africa’s rich wildlife and landscape of rare beauty, including areas still inhabited by legendary tribes. Safaris are offered as a bloodless cultural activity. The Ngorongoro Farm House works in partnership with local communities to contribute to their prosperity. Their conviction is that it will only be possible to preserve Africa’s wildlife if the local population is involved and benefits from it; hence all of the staff is African.

183 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Veronica Jackson is an example of this dynamic enthusiast of the region’s traditional cuisine. duo of personal and community involvement to Her position notwithstanding, she has no promote age-old traditions of Tanzania while qualms about experimenting with new dishes creating an exclusive and vibrant hospitality or adapting them to her customer’s tastes. After industry. Of Masai origin and the only woman her initial training, she apprenticed for just of five siblings, the industrious Veronica has one year, before running kitchens in various been head chef for the past 15 years at the Kitela establishments for 30 more years. Her roles Lodge. She oversees the hotel and camp kitchens included a stint as head chef at the Masek that are part of the Tanganyika Wilderness Tented Camp, a destination in the Ngorongoro Camps initiative. Conservation Area in the southern Serengeti and as a pioneer of Africa’s eco-friendly Born in 1970, Jackson studied in one of the camp tourism. country’s handful of cookery schools, the Forozan, in Dar es Salaam. Situated on the In addition to her role as executive chef, Veronica is Indian Ocean, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania’s largest involved in the management and public relations of city, was the country’s capital until 1996, but the resort, where as the chief in all culinary matters during the colonial era it found itself the capital she is indispensable. At the Tanganyika Wilderness of German East Africa and under the British Camps, daily meals feature gourmet experiences with protectorate of Tanganyika, until its peaceful ethnic recipes adapted to meet conventional tastes of independence and the unification of Tanganyika foreign visitors or incorporate contemporary western and Zanzibar. Jackson is both expert and and eastern culinary trends.

184 East and southern Africa�

Chef Veronica Jackson in her garden patch and in the kitchen of the restaurant in Kitela Lodge.

185 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

The produce is ultra-local and used in daily Wilderness Camps’ own shambas (kitchen meals at the camps and their restaurants gardens) produce conventional and native or for feasts during excursions. Here, the pulses that illustrate the diversity of the tasty, ancestral tradition of pulses features ethnic cuisine of the Masai people and other as part of a local, healthy and balanced remote tribes that survive to this day, like diet. “Pulses are the staple food of the the hunter-gatherers of the Hadzabe Datoga people of Tanzania,” Veronica explains, and Barabaig. “and demand is growing in the country, so we must make sure that they are produced. Veronica Jackson is responsible for the growing We have to expand and facilitate growing cycles of the gardens that surround the camps, to guarantee supply and distribution like Kitela, where the nearby communities so that the wealth of pulse varieties is are permitted to plant pulses in the coffee available to everyone.” plantations for their own use. The many local varieties grown there enrich the culinary In fact, in addition to the supplies from experience, and their delicious and exotic markets in Arusha, Karatu and Mto wa names whet the appetite: kunde kunde, mbaazi, Mbu (well worth a visit to discover the maharagwe soya, maharagwe mabichi, dengu, region’s unique products), the Tanganyika choroko, nyayo maharagwe, ngwara mea…

186 187 FAO INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES

Photographers�

Alan Keohane (UK) Benjamin Rasmussen (USA) Jane Hahn (South Korea-USA) Adam Wiseman currently lives in Marrakech has found his work included is an award-winning (UK-Mexico-USA) is the and has authored books in the American Photography photographer based in recipient of Mexico’s prestigious on his adopted homeland, Annuals (nos. 26, 28 30) and West Africa. She has been Endowment of the Arts "Berbers of Morocco" and was recognised in the 2010 recognised by the British SNCA/FONCA fellowship "Bedouin, Nomads of the POYi awards. He has been Journal of Photography with the (2012-2015). His most recent Desert". His work has appeared selected as one of Photolucida’s Single Image Prize in 2015, assignments have been featured in numerous publications 2010 Critical Mass Top 50 by the Open Society Institute in National Geographic, including the Assouline book and included in the Magenta of West Africa for her Ebola The Guardian, The Sunday on the Mamounia and Dorling Foundation’s Flash Forward - coverage and with an Award Telegraph, The Wall Street Kindersley's Top 10 Guide to Emerging Photographers 2011 of Excellence by Pictures of the Journal, and ESPN, Monocle Marrakech. and 2012 lists. Year International in 2016. and Wallpaper magazines. alankeohane.com benjaminrasmussenphoto.com www.janehahn.com adamphotogallery.com

Samuel Aranda (Spain) Asif Hassan (Pakistan) Giuseppe Bizzarri (Italy) Paul Joynson-Hicks (UK) was awarded the World Press works as a photographer and specializes in photography, moved to Africa in 1993. Photo of the Year for an image videographer for Agence videography and writing He has lived and worked in from the Yemeni uprising. In France Press (AFP) in Pakistan, on social, political and Uganda and Tanzania and has 2006, his feature on African covering national news and humanitarian issues. In 2000 published four photography emigrants received the Spanish special features. In January he won the Zapping prize books. His passion for Africa National Award for Photography. 2015, during his coverage of for journalism by the Italian led him to set up the charities: In 2015 and 2016 he won the anti Charlie Hebdo protests by magazine Avvenimenti for his www.wonder-workshop.org, Nikon Photography award for Islamist youths in Karachi, he report on Brazilian prisons, and www.goatraces.com, his coverage of the Ebola and was shot and wounded. his work is exhibited in Rome, www.mollysnetwork.org for refugee crises and the Ortega Paris, São Paulo and Rio de which he was awarded an and Gasset award in 2016. Janeiro. MBE. samuelaranda.net giuseppebizzarri.com pauljhicks.com

188 Writers�

Atul Loke (India) Luis Cepeda Baranda (Spain) Saúl Cepeda Lezcano (Spain) was the recipient of Japan’s journalist, food critic. He is a contributor writer, lawyer, political scientist Young Portfolio Award (2002) to the leisure magazine supplement of and food journalist specializing and a European photography Spanish newspaper El Pais, and Spanish in international cuisines and food fellowship in 2002, working with collaborator to Elle-Gourmet, Sobremesa, anthropology. Award-winning renowned photographers from Esquire, Tapas, Expansion and Vogue author of fiction and nonfiction and National Geography Magazine in Mexico, where he was director of collaborator to Desktop and Rolling and Magnum Agency. He covers Ediciones Deusto. He is the author of Stone magazines. major national and social issues fiction, biographies and gastronomic saulweb.com and is currently working on a treatises and as a foodie, founder of personal book project in Mumbai. Gastronomicom News and owner of the panos.co.uk/stories/1-5-1424- blog, Eating Office. 1918-ALK/Atul-Loke www.comerdeoficio.com

Illust� rators

Justin Jin (UK-China) shoots epic projects for Geo, captures front-page reporting for the New York Times, and Nik Neves (Germany–Brazil) Romualdo Faura (Spain) has held a major solo exhibition was selected as one of the 10 best professor of corporate identity, editorial at Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum. illustrators of Latin America by AI-AP design and design of pictographs in International accolades include and chosen for Society of Illustrators, various universities. In 2007 he won the Magnum Award, Pictures of Communication Arts, and American the Spanish national award, Injuve the Year International (POYi), and Illustration annuals. A contributor to Design and Young Creation, for World Press Photo Masterclass. Descobrir Catalunya and National Graphic Design. He has won several justinjin.com Geographic Traveller, he illustrated books international design awards for his work. Illustration Now! 5, Mind the Map. nikneves.com

189