Home Dyeing with Natural Dyes

1 Indigo (ferm entation vat) 1 Indigo (hydrosulphite vat) _

s llow Birch leav e , ye Butternut hulls 1

Coreopsis ﬂow ers

' D i - hl ow ers u a a ﬂ u

Hollygrape root FustiC+— m adder Iron buff 2

r stern 1 Heml ock ba k, w e Onion skins Hickor rk hit uerci r n—ﬁ— m y ba , w e Q t o adder Hickory nut hulls Hollygrape root Juniper berries Indigo — Cochineal $

$ l rk orw 1 Map e ba , N ay 1 Marigold ﬂow ers _

‘ - — M n in l re l ves - Gol enr ﬂow rs m er ou ta au l ea 1 d od e add 35

1 Pecan hulls Broom sedge _ 1 m m rs ellow Persian berries Ca o ile flow e , y ' P l r l es Lom Chro ellow 2 op a eav , bardy me y 1 1 Sassafras root bark _ Cotton flow ers Sum ac berries 1 Fustic T l nr owrs ea eaves, black Golde o d fl e T elo l i o rk w hite 1 up or b ack gum bark H ck ry ba , l k l Wa nut bar , b ack l h 1 Wa nut ull s, black Walnut hulls Persian or Eng lish 1

Gray : Poplar leaves Lom bardy Butternut hulls 2 Privet leaves (3111 013 111 ark 2 1 31 b Sunfl ower flow ers I — 1 $ ndigo w alnut 1111118 Tulip tree leaves M a le rk 2 i p ba , Norway $ nnia flowers

1 o w oo and to B th l cot n. 2 C o on o tt nly. J UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT or AGRICULTURE

MIS CELLANEO U S PUBLICATI N O N O . 230

Was hington, D . C . Decem ber 1935

HOME DYEING WITH NATURAL DYES

B M S . FuR R r assis an ex ile chemis and BE M IE n ss . M T assis a y ARGARET , t t t t t , V O N , t t ex i le s eci ali s o Tex iles and lo hin B r H t t p t , f t C t g, u eau of ome E conomics

C O N TEN TS

P ag e Intro uc ion 1 S e s in d ein rocess— C n inu d d t t p y g p o t e . Color fastness 2 W ashing C olor combinations 3 M ordanting E q uipment and supplies 4 U sing the dye recipes Steps in the dyeing process 5 T op -dye Weighing 5

INTR O DUCTIO N

The present wide - spread interest in handicraft work has brought to the Departm ent of Agriculture a dem and for reliable inform ation of on the use tree barks , nut hulls , and other natural dyestuffs gathered m $ i m locally . Though for ost purposes the synthet c dyes anufactured b c mm i m m i y o erc al che ical processes are ore sat sfactory , there are certain qualities about natural dyes that give them com m ercial value in i m di m hand craft work , and any han craft workers prefer to use the on m i - ater als for hooked rugs , hand woven scarfs , coverlets , and other i i in i m art cles they make for sale . These hand craft dustr es have beco e mm n i a source of family incom e in som e rural co u it es . Such proj ects are also being developed in connection with various Federal and State i i i i rel ef act v t es . This publication 1 reports the results of tests on about 65 natural dye materials when used for dyeing cotton and wool cloth . Most i i m of the dyes studied are of vegetable or g n . In fact the ter s $ natural $ and vegetable $ dyes are often used interchangeably few hi of im i i i ff though a , such as coc neal , are an al or g n and ron bu m and some others are developed from mineral pig ents . Sam ples of all the dyes studied in these experim ents were given i unsatis standard tests for color fastness . Many were d scarded as and i i factory (p . only rec pes are ncluded for those that produced i mm attractive colors fast to both light and washing . S nce the co on m m e nam es of trees and plants differ so uch fro plac to place , the The of i ul in scientiﬁc nam es are given . college agr c ture any State locaht will give help in identifying plant m aterials . In each y there are m any natural dye m aterials that by one dye m or another o ethod hi i i i s 1ntended m w ill give satisfactory colors . T s publ cat on erely

1 Faw ce assis an a o o is ureau of P an In us r , for Acknow ledgment is made to E dna H . tt , t t p th l g t , B l t d t y

R e associa e o o o is ureau of P an In us r , for urn s n an helpful suggestions$ to C . A . e d , t p m l g t , B l t d t y f i hi g pl t en n an s and to ar on ake senior bo ani s ureau of P an In us r , for $ M materials $ to S . F . Bl , t t , B l t d t y id tifyi g pl t i M P i i s of the ureau of H o e cono cs for enera abora ory ass s ance. A . B elknap and ary A . h ll p B m E mi , g l l t i t

1 0 6 2 6 ° — 35 1 1 I A IO 2 30 . s . . O F A IC I . B C 2 M SC PU L T N , U DEPT GR ULTURE

A few s mim i e as a guide for such w ork . State have eographed d r 2 n tions for using atural dyes .

CO L O R FAS TNES S

n or m IS i m nO is The fast ess per anence Of a dye portant , but dye n i i m a i or absolutely fast under all co d t ons . It y be fast to l ght , to hi r m ir i n or w . persp at o , to as ng , but not fast to all th ee Further ore , a dye m ay be fast on one ﬁber and not on another $ or it m ay be fast n m w hen dyed by o e ethod and not fast when dyed by another . i ﬁ il ul in Of all the text le bers , wool can be dyed most eas y , and the res t g n t m i wi a i all colors cha ge the leas . It co b nes th pr ct cally dyes , mi m probably for ng a chemical union with the . Cotton does not m i w ll on it co bine w th dyes so e , and fast colors are produced only by m i co pl cated processes . The need for a particular kind Of fastness depends on the nature n a of the color change a d the use to be m ade Of the dyed f bric . For m i m a on exa ple , a fabric dyed brown w th tree bark y darken exposure i in is mi to l ght . If used a hooked rug th color change ght be satis on in wi i it n factory but the other hand , ndow draper es would soo m i beco e Obj ect onable . TO m ake sure that the recipes given on pages 8 to 35 produce n be ul m colors permane t enough to usef for ost purposes , the dyed i i i and i fabr cs were tested for the r fastness _to l ght to wash ng by the

i m in c in . follow ng ethods . The results are luded the dye recipes For i m w the l ght test , sa ples Of the dyed fabrics ere cut and exposed m for 4 0 hours to the rays Of a carbon arc la p . Throughout the test period half Of each piece was shielded from the light w hile the rays

‘ m tw o Of the la p shone directly on the other half . Then the parts were com pared and the fastness to light rated as follow s : Good— no appreciable change Of color $ fair— appreciable but not Obj ectionable

— change Of color $ poor Obj ectionable change Of color . in i Though these light tests were run a standard fad ng apparatus , the same m ethod can be follow ed at hom e by exposing sam ples to the 2 —i i in Of tw o O f sunlight . Cut nch square open ngs each pieces heavy i one w i mm cardboard , fasten a p ece Of the dyed cloth to th gu ed paper and cover w ith the other piece Of cardboard so that the openings i n is im i m h . correspo d . It portant that the l ght co e t rough the fabr c Then place this1 sam ple in its fram e out Of doors in the direct sunlight i n Af m m and t lted tow ards the su . ter a few days re ove and co pare n the section exp osed to the sun with the covered portio . i m w in 2 4 i For the wash ng test, sa ples were prepared by se g a by nch piece Of dyed fabric to a similar piece Of un dyed m aterial . On such a m in o inin Of din sa ple the bleed g r sta g a dye , as well as fa g , can be min in - i ui ﬁl deter ed . It was then placed a half p nt fr t j ar partly led with neutral soap solution percent for w ool and percent for °

120 i in in m i 30 mi . cotton) at F . and ag tated a shak g ach ne for nutes m m s i The sa ple was then re oved , queezed through a wr nger , and i i in i r nsed by ag tat g in w ater for 10 minutes . R nsing was repeated ﬁv e tim es and the tem perature Of each rinse gradually dropped to luke

2 R CK Y . P YC VI G FO R V C I Y Y I G. D W . and S S C . PI G W HA R . NI O E , , , H OME N N AND EA N A O AT ON $ D E AND D E N N M . ex . S B V te d . o . E . a 1933. ca d A bu uer ue. 20 1 . i lus . t t , l q q p p , l S G . TH E S O F S S C E xt erv . H o e con. l . . L Y IN H C F . re . a e o A ER , A U E NATURA D E OME RA T O g St t S , m E 604 1 1 1 4 M . i e , pp 93 . [ m ographed ]

SE w E d F . LL . H . an M W M S D V a . R an N M ex e . o d a e V G BL Y B LL I . . c , B , ORRO , . E ETA E D E U ET N . pt t , S t

8 . I s 9 4 Mi eo a pp , llu . 1 3 . [ m gr phed HO ME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 3

m . The m ri uic war sa ples were d ed q kly , then compared with the i i ri and i Or g nal unwashed fab c , rated good , fa r , and poor, as for the h h t . A i m i i m m g test S lar test can eas ly be ade at ho e .

CO L O R CO MBINA TIO NS

The craft dyer needs to know how to com bine colors as well as how m to produce the . When harm oniously com bined they add beauty i i and sales value to hand craft art cles . Therefore an understanding Of a few of the principles involved will aid the dyer in producing m i i satisfactory colors and color co b nat ons . im Pr ary colors are yellow , blue , and red . Al l other colors are m m m ade fro the .

— — — FIG 1 . A co or w ee s ow in the ri ar c rs e w b e e URE l h l h g p m y olo y llo , lu , r d and the secondary colors

reen vio e and oran e. g , l t , g

n — i n — com Seco dary colors green , v olet , and ora ge are made by i i im i i an b n ng two p r ar es . Yellow and blue g ve green $ blue d red i and m produce v olet $ red and yellow ake orange . Interm ediate colors are formed by com bining a primary and a ixi — secondary color . M ng yellow with green produces yellow green $ bl ue with green a blue - green $ red with blue a red - violet $ red with n i r - i w - ora ge a ed orange $ and yellow w th orange a yello orange . m i Of i i Co plementary colors are pa rs oppos tes , as yellow and v olet Ol ‘ i i i m m red and green . Oppos te ntermed ates are also co ple entary fi g . The i hi i and three propert es w ch descr be a color are hue , value , i i m or i . ntens ty . Hue s the na e Of the color such as yellow green Value m eans the depth or the lightness or darkness Of a color as m i in m hi or . easured ter s Of w te black L ght values , or those approach in i or i g white , are called tints , wh le dark ones those approach ng black I A 2 . IO 30 . F MI . B C C U . O A I S PU L T N , S DEPT GR CULTURE

i i are called shades . In dye ng , t nts can be m ade by using less dye m a eria in i i t l proport on to the we ght Of cloth . Shades are m ade either ‘ in in i m m i or in by creas g the relat ve a ount Of dye ater al by add g black . Intensity means the brightness Of a hue or the am ount Of a pure color in i i f it conta s . The ntens ty O any color is softened or subdued by mixing with varying amounts Of its com plem ent or the color opposite i fi it n the color wheel ( g . i m i in Of imi Certa n rules govern the co b n g colors . S lar hues may be used together in self- tone and neighboring color harm onies— som e m i i - m ti es called harmon es Of l keness . Self tone har onies consist of n and one n i ti ts Shades Of color such as ora ge , tan , and brown . Ne gh boring color harm onies combine colors that are side by side in the fi w m i i i . i color wheel ( g Ho ever , when co b n ng ne ghbor ng colors it is hi lie im best to use only those w ch between two pr ary hues , for m - - exa ple , yellow green , green, and blue green . m in i n nl ni Co b at o s Of u ike colors are called harmo es Of contrast , and of m m i i i om these the co ple entary and tr ad c are the eas est to use . C plem entary harm onies com bine two Opposite colors such as orange hi i i i i O f hi and blue , w le the tr ad c uses var at ons any three colors w ch are i i m i i eq uidi stant in the color wheel . The tr ad c co b nat ons possible m s in fi 1 w fro the colors hown gure are yello , blue , and red $ green , vi and - n - i and - olet , orange $ yellow gree , blue v olet , red orange $ blue

- - i an n . green , red v olet , d yellow ora ge e i m i if The most pl as ng co binat ons use d ferent values of soft colors , one of which is neutralized more than the others S O that it can be m r m in fo . in used larger a ounts the background For exa ple , a w i is n m hooked rug or a oven scarf , tan , wh ch a neutralized ora ge , akes for m i n n a good background color the ore ntense ora ges , blues , or gree s i the des gn . EQ UIP MENT AND S UPPLIES

i m im e i m few TO dye craft m ater als at ho e , only s pl equ p ent and a i l : suppl es are needed , as fol ows

i i in i n . Scales , which w ll we gh accurately fract o s Of an ounce m r im m Kettles of ena elware o copper , large enough to erse the cloth tin m com pletely . Iron kettles darken colors , and kettles ake colors f h o i i i or i . hars , s avo d us ng either ron tin , possible

i r in w hi n the ic . Large pa ls o tubs , ch to ri se dyed fabr s i and m . Gallon , peck , quart easures , tablespoons , and d ppers

o for ini i . Cheesecloth r coarse m uslin , stra ng the dye l quor Sticks Of sm ooth wood or glass tow el rods for stirring and turning the m aterial in the dye bath . A i it set n S O good stove . If poss ble , have lower tha usual that lifting the w ater and stirring the goods in the dye bath will be easier . A therm om eter to test the tem perature Of the dye bath and rinse w aters .

Rubber gloves to protect the hands from dyes .

A clothesline stretched in the Shade . w s ﬁl i . Soft water , uch as tered ra n water Have plenty Of ater to

v i w i n for in n . co er the fabr c h le dyeing , also ple ty r si g Chem icals and dye m aterials can be Obtained from drugstores and i - botan cal drug supply houses . HOME DYEING WITH N ATURA L DYES 5

STEP S IN THE DYEING PR O CES S

WEIGH ING

The weight of the m aterial to be dyed determines the quantity of in n it in as i soap to use washi g before dye g , as well the quant ty Of chemicals and dyestuffs to use in the m ordanting and dyeing proc s ﬁ is i eS eS . Therefore the rst step to we gh the yarn or fabric while i it is st ll dry . WASHIN G

In order that the dye solution m ay penetrate thoroughly and or i in w evenly , the yarn fabr c should be washed soap and ater and A n should be well rinsed . y starch and sizing m aterials will prevent ﬁ m i i m m the bers fro wett ng out read ly and ust be re oved . Spots i m a i and sta ns y also cause uneven dye ng , and should be treated before i 3 wash ng . W‘ OO L

Of m t n for Make a suds good neutral soap in lukewar sof water , usi g each pound Of wool yarn or fabric about three - fourths Of an ounce Of soap to 5 gallons Of lukew arm water (9 5 ° Wash the material hl for 30 m i and i thoroug y nutes , squeeze out the suds . Then wash t a im in w m 30 m hi im n second t e luke ar suds for inutes , t s t e usi g one m A in ut i . it 4 fourth as uch Soap fter squeez g o the suds , r nse 3 or 1 mi m in im 0 m . t es , nutes each ti e , lukewar water TO i i i i i prevent felt ng and shr nk ng , handle wool qu ckly and pass t i i A directly from the suds to the r nses w thout delay . lso have the tem perature Of the suds and rinses the sam e and never more than m in m i lukewar . Sudden changes te perature cause wool to shr nk m l out i A . and beco e harsh . ways squeeze the r nse water evenly i or wi Never wr ng t st wool . i is m Often wool not yet spun nto yarn dyed . The raw wool ust ﬁrst be thoroughly scoured and cleaned to rem ove the natural wax and grease because these im purities tend to m ake the ﬁber water i A repellent and the dye cannot penetrate t . fter being scoured and if m a is in . dyed , the wool carded and spun to yarn D ferent colors y m n be carded together to m ake interesting color co binatio s .

CO TT O N

in in for Make a suds Of good neutral soap hot , soft water , us g each pound Of cotton m aterial about three- fourths Of an ounce Of soap in 14 ° t hl 30 mi 5 gallons Of hot water ( 0 Wash horoug y for nutes , i out in in as m wr ng the suds , and wash a second suds , us g half uch in ho in t . soap for a pound Of m aterial . R se once water For the second rinse have the water still hotter and let the cotton soak a 2 m i 3 . half hour or ore . Then follow w th or cooler rinses

M O R D A N TIN G

Many Of the natural dyes w ill fade and bleed badly unless the

‘ wi a chem ical m n w yarn or fabric is first treated th called a orda t , hich The m m m helps to fix the color to the fiber . ordants co only used

3 S D P O F G IC L O F H C ICS . S I V L U NITED STATE E ARTMENT A R U TURE , BUREAU OME E ONOM TA N REMO A ’

4 3 . s 1 2 Fa ers ul . 147 0 u . 9 6 . S S D . r S . e . A U . r FROM FAB RIC $ HOME METH OD . pt g m B l , p p , ill B ICA IO 2 30 . s . D . O F A I L I . C 6 M SC PU L T N , U EPT GR U TUR E

ur uff m hr m i m di hr m with the nat al dyest s are alu , c o e (potass u c o ate) , ul ni i or m copperas (ferrous s phate) , and tan c ac d so e other source of o a or m mm i i tannin such as k galls su ac leaves . Co erc al dyers use O ls diffiu m to and other substances too c lt for the ho e dyer apply . in difierent m i of m im By us g ordants , a var ety Shades and so et es m a i m diff . For m even erent colors y be Obta ned fro one dye exa ple , i wi hr m m i on wool , dahl a flowers used th a c o e ordant g ve an orange i um i hi m color and w th al a l ght yellow . Coc neal mordanted with alu i hr m gi ves a red and w th c o e a purple . Both wool and silk have the property of holding chemicals In their m i s i In i of i m fibers . For exa ple , when wool bo led a solut on potass u dichr om ate (chrom e mordant) a certain am ount of chromium oxide is in fi f m i i hi or held the ber , and the dyestu f then co b nes w th t s m m danted wool to form a per anent color . Cotton and the other vegetable fibers do not absorb the m etallic i m so i . m W i ordants read ly as wool However , they co b ne ell w th ni i w hi is i m i tan c ac d , ch used e ther as a ordant tself or as an agent for li m in fi fixing m etal c ordants the bers .

METHODS F O R MORDANTI NG WOOL

A 1 m a— F un : u or each po d of dry wool , use

4 oun ces p otash alum .

1 oun ce cream Of tartar .

i um m in 4 4 of D ssolve the al and crea Of tartar to 14 gallons cold , soft water and imm erse the wool yarn or cloth after it has been e out thoroughly W t and squeezed of water . Heat gradually to i in ir in ur ni im i bo l g , st r g and t ng the wool all the t e . Bo l gently for 1 A s i add m so t i hour . the water bo ls away , ore tha the proport on of m i m liquid to wool re a ns the sa e . Cool and allow the wool to in m ni it m stand overnight the m ordant . In the or ng squeeze fro hi in in i t s bath , roll a dry towel , and put a cool place . R nse the m m i i it i ordanted ater al well just before putt ng nto the dye bath . Chr m e — For u use: o each po nd Of dry wool ,

1é oun ce potassium dichr om ate .

i i m di m in 4 4 ll of D ssolve the potass u chro ate to 14 ga ons cold , soft i i w ater and follow the direct ons for m ordant ng wool with alum .

METHODS F O R MORDANTI NG COTTON

A lm a — For of each pound dry cotton , use :

4 ounces otash l m p a u . 1 n ou ce sodium carb onate (w ashing soda) .

um i in 4 4 ll f Dissolve the al and wash ng soda to 16 ga ons o cold , soft w ater and imm erse the cotton after it has been thoroughly wet and

w n t f i for 1 . ou o . i w a ru g water St r ell , he t gradually , and bo l hour m nin Cool and let stand i n the bath overnight . In the or g squeeze the m m ll in dr In cotton fro the ordant bath , ro a y towel , and put a cool i i i place . R nse the InOi danted m aterial well just before putt ng t into a the dye b th .

A l m - nnin - l — t a a m . Of use: u u For each pound dry cotton ,

8 oun ces otash p alum . 2 oun ces so ium car onate w ashin so d b ( g da) . 1 0 oun ces ow ere oak alls or 1 unc tannic aci or extract rom 4 p d d g , o e d , f to 6 oun ces dr y sum ac leaves . HOME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 7

Dissolve half of the alum and half of the washing soda in 4 to 4 g of f imm it gallons cold , so t water and erse the cotton after has been hl out of i thoroug y wet and wrung water St r well , heat gradually i 1 n ili u . m i to to bo ng , and bo l for ho r Cool and allow the ater al sta d m i overnight in the ordant . In the m orn ng squeeze the m aterial out, i i oak or ni i or m r nse , and put nto a bath of galls , tan c ac d , su ac ° ° 14 0 to 160 it in i 1 leaves at F , Work th s bath for hour and let i i i i of m stand overn ght . Then r nse Sl ghtly . W th the rest the alu i in 4 4 of and wash ng soda prepare another bath to 15 gallons water , m i i in l m i in and mordant the ater al aga n a u . Let stand overn ght the m ni i m ordant bath . In the or ng squeeze out the cotton and r nse i just before dye ng . of m To prepare the extract su ac leaves , soak the dry leaves for - i 30 mi n one half hour , then bo l nutes , strai , and let the bath cool to m the proper te perature .

U SING TH E D YE R ECIP ES The dye recipes are arranged alphabetically by the nam e Of the ' m i l To i i i in ﬂow er or . , bark , other dye ater a avo d repet t on the i m rec pes , under the heading Barks are grouped the four ethods Of in i w i i m i dye g w th bark , follo ed by spec al nfor ation about each k nd . et m i w n In order to g good results fro the dye rec pes , the follo i g general points Should be clearly understood :

All the recipes are based on 1 pound of wool or cotton w eighed is m while , dry before it ordanted . Th m i m i h m e dye ater als ust be we g ed or easured , prepared as the

i i i w ater for . dye rec pe d rects , and stra ned into the f the dye bath

ﬁ i w 4 to 4 n U se plenty of water ( ltered ra n ater) , at least 16 gallo s i m i i for each pound of yarn or cloth . Otherw se the ater al w ll be r crowded and will com e out streaked o spotted .

i m or i l n R nse the ordanted yarn fabr c well , squeeze light y , the i nd u quickly imm erse it in the dye bath . St r a t rn it so that all parts w o ut and are heated evenly . Be sure to keep the goods ell opened in m i constant ot on . The temperature of the dye bath must be just lukewarm w hen w ool T l and is in it m . put , but for cotton can be war er hen heat gradua ly i simm er or boil according to the di rect ons . i A S the dye bath boils down , l ft out the yarn or cloth and add The i Of d e h boiling water from time to tim e . quant ty y bath s ould be kept the sam e thr oughout the process .

Rinse the dyed yarn or fabric ﬁrst in water of the sam e tem perature Kee rinsin in w . as the dye bath and ﬁnally cooler ater p g, using i n plenty Of water until the rinse water is clear . Crock ng or rubbi g m suffim n n Of the dye from the m aterial is usually caused by e t rinsi g .

Squeeze or press out as m uch water from the dyed m aterial as DO w i n it i u t w ri n possible . not t st or wri g , for th s ca ses s reaks and kles that are diﬂi cult to rem ove . Roll the m aterial for a few minutes in a clean cloth or tow el to ab n i n sorb any excess m oisture $ then shake it w ell and ha g the shade . M B ICA IO 2 30 . . . O F IC R 8 ISC . PU L T N , U S DEPT AGR ULTU E

n i v w i C h When the fabric is dry e ough to ron , co er it th a lot and press on the w rong side .

Dye the am ount of yarn or cloth of each color needed for a piece Of m i s in m handicraft work at one ti e , n tead Of try g to atch the color by m i S O m it is a second dyeing . Vegetable dye ater als vary uch that alm ost impossible to duplicate colors exactly .

TO Obtain colors lighter or darker than those suggested by the i i or . recipes , decrease ncrease the g ven quantities of dyestuffs Many craft workers ﬁnd it easier and pleasanter to dye their m a terials out Of doors .

wi n m m im in The follo ng pla t aterials , so et es suggested for dye g , do not produce fast colors on w ool or cotton and therefore are not in in i : An J cluded the dye rec pes natto seeds , apanese barberry root , i Of beets , crab apple peel ngs , the fruit the blackberry , blueberry , i i m cranberry , and pokeweed , purple r s ﬂowers , osses , peach leaves , m i i um w ll . red roses , s ac leaves , tur er c , and ow leaves

C I Callistemma chinense ASTER FLOWERS , H NESE ( )

The i i calliste hin i n in color pr nc ples , p and aster n , are fou d asters , iir le- w in i especially the deep p p red ﬂo ers . The asters used test ng i h m m this reci pe were rose p nk . On c ro e ordanted wool they gave g ni hi i w . a l ght b ree sh yellow ch has good color fastness Light greenish yellow — For each pound of wool m ordanted w ith hr m u e : c o e , s

V2 bushel fresh aster ﬂ ow ers . i m w i m ll Mordant the w ool w th chro e (p . Cut the ﬂo ers nto S a

i i . 10 min w n p eces , bo l for utes in ater to cover , strai , and add enough 4 4 mm w w ll . ater for the dye bath ( to % ga ons) I erse the ool , thor l in an of 20 m in ough y r sed d squeezed out water , boil for utes , then ri nse and dry . BARKS

The barks of m any com m on trees supply coloring m aterials for and or n yarns cloth . Of the barks discussed here , black, quercitro , i w w oak has the greatest color ng po er . Barks produce colors on ool i m li nl vary ng fro ght tan to brown , but on cotton o y the lighter shades i i 1 hi . 9 3 are Obta ned In add tion to those reported (pp . to ) w te ash m i v m wi w an w um bark , adrone , s l er aple , llo oak , d s eetg bark were mi m hi u i i also tested , but they are o tted fro t s p bl cat on because their imi f colors are very s lar to those o other barks . d in i Most barks are best collecte the fall or w nter , though the n u i m a l Inn resi o s k nds y be gathered In the spring . General y the er i s it m a or bark used and y be either fresh dried , but usually fresh ones i n m u g ve a stro ger dye . They st be carefully dried and stored where w ill m m m they not beco e da p and oldy . The coloring principles of these dyes are closely com bined wi th nin hi nn tan . Because Of t s ta in fabrics dyed with bark extracts are i m w TO often not fast to l ga ht but soon darken and beco e bro n . pre vent thi s change the yarn or fabric after it i s dyed can be treated wi th m m i hr m certain che icals such as potassiu d c o ate , ferrous sulphate , T . n ﬁx or m i and copper sulphate hese te d to re ove the excess tann n . m 2 4 3 . 9 use i Dye ethods , , and (p ) th s process . HOME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 9

— Dy e m ethod 1 . For each pound of w ool yarn or cloth not m or ‘ or m n wi m or i chrom e or danted orda ted th alu w th , for each pound of cotton yarn or cloth m ordanted with alum or with alum - tannin m : alu , use

1 k ﬁn l ch pec e y opped bark .

d . 6 Mor ant the wool (p ) or cotton (p . Soak the bark over i in 2 2 m i w n ght to 16 gallons of soft water . In the orn ng heat Slo ly 2 hot i and boil for hours , adding water to replace what bo ls away . Strain tw ice through cheesecloth and to this dye extract add enough m 4 4 n it i cold water to ake to % gallo s for the dye bath . Let cool unt l w m im m m i w luke ar , then erse the ater al , hich has been thoroughly of and i f r n o 30 . i nsed and squeezed out water , bo l mi utes R nse and rir y .

— Dye m ethod 2 . For each pound of w ool yarn or cloth m ordanted i m or for un n r m wi w th alu , each po d Of cotto yarn o cloth ordanted th m or i alirm - i - m : alu w th tann n alu , use

1 k ﬁn l h e rk pec e y c opp d ba .

ounce potassium dichrom ate .

ounce acet c aci d or 6 to 7 ta les oons ne ar . i , b p Vi g

i m 6 or i m Mordant the wool w th alu (p . ) the cotton w th alu or m - i - n in 2 2 alu tann n alum (p . Soak the bark over ight to 16 n m n n l i for 2 gallo s of soft water . In the or i g heat slow y and bo l i i i w . w hours , add ng hot water to replace hat bo ls away Stra n t ice through cheesecloth and to this dye extract add enough cold w ater m 4 it i w m 4 . to ake to 16gallons for the dye bath Let cool unt l luke ar , ' imm m w hi ch has i and then erse the aterial , been thoroughly r nsed mi i i out and 30 . squeezed Of water , boil for nutes W thout rins ng , put the yarn or cloth into a boiling bath of the potassium dichrom ate

. i in 4 of i and acetic ac d gallons soft water , stir carefully , and bo l for 10 i an minutes . R nse d dry .

D — f m y e m ethod 3 . For each pound o wool yarn or cloth ordanted i m or i m : w th alu w th chro e , use

1 peck ﬁnely chopped bark . l ounce copper sulphate (blue vitrio ) .

ounce acetic aci r 6 t o 7 ta les oons vine ar . 16 d , o b p g

w 6 and i in m 2 Mordant the ool (p . ) dye as d rected dye ethod , m using copper sulphate in place of potassium dichro ate . — O f or m n Dy e m ethod 4 . For each pound wool yarn cloth orda ted i m : w th alu , use

rk 1 peck ﬁnely chopped ba . s 16 ounce ferrous sulphate (coppera ) . Mordant the wool and dye as directed in dye using ferrous sulphate in place of potassi um di chrom ate i or i ac d v negar . APPLE BARK (Malus sylvestri s)

$ i - and s On wool , apple bark g ves a dark yellow tan a bra s color hi with fair fastness to light and good fastness to was ng .

- — m 1 r D A m m . o ark y ellow t an . Wool : lu ordant (p dye ethod

— m 1 B rass Wool : Chrom e m ordant (p . dye ethod

1 0 6 2 6 ° — 35— 2 M B ICA IO 2 30 . . . O F A IC 10 ISC . PU L T N , U S DEPT GR ULTURE

I C Be ula lu ea B R H BARK , YELLOW ( t t )

in i ir mm The bark used these rec pes was yellow b ch , co on in the one m i i t Northeastern States . By ethod Of dye ng gave on wool a dark yellow- tan which has fair fastness to light and good fastness to w ashing $ by anothei it gave a yellow - brow n which has good color fastness . - n - m m . D ark y ellow t a . Wool : Alu ordant (p dye m ethod 3 (p 9 ) n - r m . m Yello row . WO O l : A m 2 w b lu o dant (p dye ethod (p .

CHITTAM BARK (Rhamnus p urshi ana)

Chittam bark is extensively collected in Oregon and Washington

in m in . States anufactur cg the drug cascara sagrada The bark also colors l - hi i yields a dye that wool a dark ye low tan , w ch has fa r color i fastness , and a l ght brown that has good fastness . On cotton , i m i i i Ch tta bark g ves a good fast tan and a gray w th fa r color fastness .

' se - r of eek of C i m 1 Of WO Ol U one fou th a p h tta bark to pound or cotton . - n — m m D rk ellow t a . : a y Wool Chro e ordant (p . dye m ethod 1 p 9 )

— n . m L i ht row : A m m . 2 g b Wool lu ordant (p dye ethod (p . T n — A m - i - m m : . a . Cotton lu tann n alu ordant (p dye m ethod 2 (P 9 ) — m - i m m : A . Gray . Cotton lu tann n alu ordant (p dye m ethod 4 (P 9 ) C Tsu a he ero h lla HEMLO K BARK , WESTERN ( g t p y )

ml is m m ni m i He ock bark co only used as a dye and tan ng ater al . i d in i ml hi The spec es use these rec pes was western he ock , w ch grows in hilly and rocky wooded areas of the western part of the U ni ted The ml Tsu a canadensis mm l States . eastern he ock ( g ) , co on y called i i n i r n is e . sp uce p e , also used dy ng m - On wool , he lock bark produces dark shades of yellow tan and

- i i . m rose tan , both w th fa r color fastness On cotton ,yhe lock bark gives a i ose- tan that has fair fastness to light and good fastness to hi was ng . n — m m D k llo a . m ar y e w t Wool : Chro e ordant (p . dye ethod 2 p 9 )

- - D k o e n . ar r s t a Wool : Al um m ordant (p . dye m ethod 2 (p m - m m m A nni . 6 1 or 2 Cotton : lu ta n alu ordant (p ) dye ethod (p .

I C I Hicori a alba H KORY BARK , WH TE ( )

The in hi hi hi or m bark used t s test was the w te ckory ockernut , hi of ni n w ch grows throughout the eastern half the U ted States . O it i - hi i wool , g ves a brass color and a dark yellow tan w ch have fa r fastness to light and good fastness to washing $ also a yellow- brown i i i wh ch has good color fastness . On cotton , th s bark g ves a gold

i . and a brass color , w th good fastness

— - - old . m 1 G Cotton Alum tannin alum m ordant (p . dye ethod p 9 ) B rass - WOOl: m m 1 m . Chro e ordant (p . dye ethod (p : Al m - ni - m 2 Cotton u tan n alum m ordant (p . dye ethod (p . D ark llo — e w t an . m 3 y Wool : A lum m ordant (p . dye ethod p g)

- — Yellow row n . m 2 9 : A m 6 . b Wool lu mordant (p . ) dye ethod (P ) HOME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 1 1

l B N A cer la anoi des MAPLE ARK , ORWAY ( p t )

one m of i on m By ethod dye ng wool , Norway aple bark produces a - m i i rose tan $ by another ethod , a l ght brown . Both have fa r fastness i i hi i to l ght and good fastness to wash ng . On cotton , t s bark g ves a , light gray which has fair fastness to light and good fastness to wash in hi of g $ and a drab , w ch has good color fastness . The bark the i m hi hr Am i s lver aple , w ch grows t oughout eastern North er ca , pro imil duces S ar colors on wool and cotton .

- - R ose t an . Woolz A m m 6 m 3 . lu ordant (p . ) dye ethod (p 1 r m m W0 0 : . 1 Ch o e ordant (p dye method (p . — i ht row n . : A m m m 2 L g b Wool lu ordant (p . dye ethod (p .

$ - - - i ht ra . : A m i um m 6 L g g y Cotton lu tann n al ordant (p . ) dye 1 m ethod (p . Drain — : A m - i - m m 6 m 2 Cotton lu tann n alu ordant (p . ) dye ethod

(p . A K C O R CI uercus velu ina O BARK , BLA K Q UER TRON (Q t )

Q uercitron is the dyestuff prepared from the inner bark of black or i oak in Uni querc tron trees , found the eastern half Of the ted States , i ly nia i i i n enns a . espec ally P y , Georg a , and the Carol nas The bark i m a or of i m a tself y be used , a pure dye extract querc tron y be pur m i chased . The extract has uch greater color ng power than the bark . i i of i The following d rect ons are for the use the querc tron extract . If is in of m 1 m the bark used stead the extract , follow dye ethod , chro e , m 2 i i i i m or . ordant (p . ethod (p S nce tann n dulls the br ll ancy i m i ilin in . of colors , prolonged bo g a querc tron dye bath ust be avo ded i i On wool , querc tron produces a gold color w th good fastness to li hi - i ght and to was ng , and a yellow tan that has fa r fastness to light hi o i and good fastness to was ng . On cotton , quercitr n g ves a gold color which has good color fastness . old — 1 : For of m i m G Method each pound wool ordanted w th chro e ,

U SO .

16 ounce quercitron extract . m i Mordant the wool with chro e (p . D ssolve the quercitron in u d e 4 4 extract eno gh soft water for the y bath ( to 16 gallons) , im m erse the yarn or cloth thoroughly ri nsed and squeezed out Of

in . i for 30 mi . water , and bo l nutes R se and dry Method 2 : For each pound of cotton mordanted Wi th alum ni - m : tan n alu , use

ounce quercitron extract .

16 ounce potassium di chrom ate.

n ac tic aci or: 6 to 7 ta les oons ne ar . ou ce e d , b p Vi g

Mordant the cotton in alum - tannin— alum according to directions i i in 4 to 4 6 on page 6 . D ssolve the querc tron 1 gallons soft water for imm hl i nd the dye bath , erse the goods , thoroug y r nsed a squeezed i ri nsm i for 30 mi . out Of water , and bo l nutes W thout g, put the m aterial into a boiling bath Of the potassium dichrom ate and acetic

i i i 10 min . i . ac d . St r carefully , and bo l for utes R nse and dry

‘ Y - n — un of m in m : ellow t a . For each po d wool ordanted alu , use

ounce quercitr on extract .

hr m at . 16 ounce potassium di c o e n r ic aci or 6 to 7 ta les oons e a . 16 ounce acet d , b p Vi g m 2 6 . m . Mordant the wool in alu (p ) and dye as for Gold , ethod I A IO 2 . . . F A I I . B C 30 O C 12 M SC PU L T N , U S DEPT GR ULTU RE

O A K C uercus m on ana BARK , HESTNUT (Q t )

The chestnut oak is nativ e to the eastern part Of the U nited States m - m i A . fro Ma ne to laba a On wool , chestnut oak bark produces a dark yellow- tan which has fair fastness to light and good fastness to i i n hi wash ng , and a l ght brow w ch has good color fastness .

- — ll an . m Ye w t hr m . 6 o Wool : C o e ordant (p ) dye m ethod 1 (p . — i ht row n . : A m m . m 2 or 3 L g b Wool lu ordant (p dye ethod ,

(p . 9 ) O A K T N uercus bor i s m a im BARK , NOR HER RED (Q eal x a)

Northern red oak trees are found throughout the eastern half Of ni hi i - hi ha . s the U ted States On wool , t s bark g ves a rose tan w ch - tan i w hi fair color fastness $ also a tan , a yellow , and a l ght brown , ch - i i . s in i have good color fastness On cotton , a rose tan Obta ed wth fa r i an fastness to l ght d good fastness to washing . T m — m 6 a Wool : Chrom e ordant (p . ) dye m ethod 3 (p .

‘ - n — m R O e . : s t a Wool : N O ordant $ dye m ethod 1 (p . Cotton 6 m 2 $ Alum m ordant (p . ) dye ethod (p — n - m . Y llo . m 1 e w t a Wool : Chro e m ordant (p . dye ethod (p — 2 . h . m Lig t b row n . Wool : Al um m ordant (p dye ethod (p

O A K IT uercus alba BARK , WH E (Q )

hi i in the The bark of the w te oak , wh ch grows the eastern half of - i w n United States , produces on wool a dark yellow tan , a l ght bro , i an i s . d a khak color . The color fastness good k ll - n - D r e . 6 m 1 3 a w t a Al m . y o Wool : um ordant (p ) dye ethod , , r o 4 (p .

— h n . m 2 . Lig t b row Wool : Alum m ordant (p . dye ethod (p — Kh k 1 . m . 6 m a i . Wool : Chro e m ordant (p ) dye ethod (p

TU PELO O R BLACK GUM BARK (Nyssa sylvatica)

Of um m in The bark the tupelo , or black g , co mon the eastern half ni on w w - of the U ted States , produces ool a dark yello tan and a i ir and khak color . Both colors have fa fastness to light good fast i ness to wash ng . rk l - n — n m 1 D a y el ow t a . Wool : Alum m orda t (p . dye ethod or

3 (p . Kh k — i. 2 m . a Wool : Alum m ordant (p . dye ethod (p

N C J u lans ni ra WAL UT BARK , BLA K ( g g ) i i hi i On wool , black walnut bark g ves a khak color w ch has fa r fast A l w - w ness to light and good fastness to w ashing . ye lo bro n and a w i hi dark bro n also are Obta ned , w ch have good color fastness . Kh ki - a 6 1 . Wool : Chrom e m ordant (p . ) dye m ethod (p — ellow — r n $ d . Y b ow . Wool : Alum m ordant (p . ye m ethod 3 (p k — ar r 6 . D b ow n. Wool : Alum m ordant (p . ) dye m ethod 2 (p

I C S alix ni ra W LLOW BARK , BLA K ( g )

i is i Of Am i The black w llow tree nat ve to the eastern part North er ca . w w - w w . On ool , black illo bark produces a rose tan and a light bro n i Both have fair fastness to light and good fastness to wash ng . HOME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 13

- - R ose tan . Woolz Al m m . 6 m u ordant (p ) dye ethod 1 or 3 (p . i ht row n — : Al m m 6 . m 2 L g b Wool u ordant (p ) dye ethod (p .

‘ I C Be ul lu ea B R H LEAVES , YELLOW ( t a t )

Yellow birch is - one of the m ost valuable forest trees of the North

w it - . s ern States On ool , leaves produce a yellow tan that has fair o i i fastness t l ght and good fastness to wash ng . The leaves can be i or if use i i used e ther fresh dry $ the leaves are fresh , tw ce the quant ty stated below .

- — Yellow t an . n of w m n i m w : For each pou d ool orda ted w th alu , allo

r i p eck d y b rch leaves . w i m Mordant the wool th alu (p . Soak the leaves overnight i m in n . 1 n enough water to cover In the orn g boil for hour , strai , m 4 4 the d e m m and add water to ake to 16 gallons for y bath . I erse the wool m aterial thoroughly rinsed and squeezed out of water and i i bo l for 30 minutes . R nse and dry .

BROOMSEDGE (A ndrop ogon vi rgini cus)

$ ’ Broom sedge or dyer s broom grow s on open waste ground from in i i . en Massachusetts to Ill o s and south to Flor da , and Texas The i im t re stalk and leaves are used for dyeing . Gathered at any t e of year it will color but the dye is stronger in the summer when the lar t in J i s . J p green It can be cut une and uly , dr ed , and used as neeée(i m i i i On wool , broo sedge g ves a l ght green sh yellow and a brass All on . color $ and cotton , a yellow and a gold have good color fast i m ness except the yellow and it has fair fastness to l ght . Broo sedge can be used with indigo to give Shades of green and with madder to give henna and a brick color . h r — of m i Lig t g eenish yellow . For each pound wool ordanted w th m : alu , use

peck dry broom sedge. h 16 ounce copper sulp ate.

ounce acetic aci or 6 to 7 ta les oons ne ar . 16 d , b p Vi g m Mordant the wool with al um (p . Cut up the dry broo sedge , and in c 20 m i . i steep water to over , and boil for nutes Stra n add mm enough cold water to m ake 4 to 4 16gallons for the dye bath . I erse the yarn or cloth thoroughly rinsed and squeezed out of water and i 2 mi i i i in ilin of bo l for 0 nutes . W thout r ns ng put a bo g bath the 4 of w i copper sulphate and acetic acid in gallons ater , st r carefully ,

i 1 in i . and bo l for 0 m utes . R nse and dry — Wi m : B rass For each pound of wool mordanted th chro e , use

peck dry broom sedge . m Mordant the wool with chrome (p . Cut up the dry broo . i in hell 20 m i . sedge , steep water to cover , and for nutes Stra n and add enough cold w ater to m ake 4 to 4 16 gallons for the dye bath . . Immerse the yarn or cloth thoroughly rinsed and squeezed out of water

R . and boil 20 minutes . inse and dry Yellow — For each pound of dry cotton m ordanted Wi th alum - tan nin m : alu , allow

peck dry broom sedge. A I 4 I C . B IC 2 1 O . 30 s . F M S PU L T N , U DEPT . O A GRICULTURE

i m - nin - um Mordant the cotton w th alu tan al (p . 6 ) and dye as

directed under Brass . — old un m in m - ni - G For each po d of cotton ordanted alu tan n alum , allow :

ck dr room se e pe y b dg . ounce otassium ichrom a e p d t . oun ce acetl c ac or 6 to 7 ta les oons vin r id, b p ega .

i m - nni - Mordant the cotton w th alu ta n alum (p . and dye as for i w Light Green sh Yello .

' BUTTERNUT H U L L s (J uglans ci nerea)

hull The bark , root , leaf , and of the butternut tree which is foun d in E the woods of the astern and Central States , are all used for dye in m ill g . The ature nuts are gathered when st green and allowed to ripen partly . The hulls are then ready for use or they m ay be dried and used as needed . m i um t On wool , ordanted w th al , bu ternut hulls produce a fast w ul is m bro n . If ferrous s phate added , the color beco es darker , even i m un i . is i to black , depend ng on the a o t used The l ght fastness fa r . i i hi i On cotton , butternut hulls g ve a green sh tan , w ch has fa r color fastness and a gray that has good fastness .

— B row n . For of w m i m each pound ool ordanted w th alu , allow :

n 1 peck green butter ut hulls . i m Mordant the wool w th alu (p . Soak the hulls in water to 30 mi i 15 30 min in cover for nutes , then bo l to utes , stra , and add w m 4 4 mm enough cold ater to ake to % gallons for the dye bath . I erse or hl i out the yarn cloth thoroug y r nsed and squeezed of water , and in i and dr boil for 30 m utes . R nse y . o A n is i If m i is i o darker brow obta ned the dyed ater al put , w th ut i i i ilin i i - i of n f r ns ng , nto a bo g bath conta n ng one s xth an ou ce o ferrous i sulphate ( ) in 4 to 4 % gallons soft water . Bo l for 10 minutes . copperas longer $ rm se and dry . reen sh t m — e of m wi m G i a For ach pound cotton ordanted th alu , allow :

1 peck green butternut hulls . i m 6 Mordant the yarn or cloth w th alu (p . ) and proceed as for n Brow . — f m d n i l m w ra . F : G y or each poun d o cotton or a ted w th a u , allo

1 peck green butternut hulls . h ounce ferrous sulp ate (copperas) .

r um 6 Mordant the cotton yarn o cloth with al (p . ) and dye as i un i i i or in n . d rected der Brow W thout r ns ng , put the yarn cloth a i i of r ul u l 10 bo l ng bath the fer ous s phate , stir caref lly , and bo l to 1 5 i . mi nutes . R nse and dry

’ C I A nthemz s inc oria AMOM LE FLOWERS , YELLOW ( t t )

ll m mi or m i m Ye ow ca o le ﬂowers , golden arguer tes as they are so e im mi in ﬁ of i t es called , are beco ng frequent elds and waste places th s m in mm i or country . The flowers co e late the su er and e ther fresh i m a i dr ed y be used for dye ng .

B ICA IO 2 30 U . . . OF A G IC 16 MISC . PU L T N , S DEPT R U LTURE

hi ni in i . m i Soak the coc neal over ght a l ttle water In the orn ng , add i i l i m i the oxal c ac d , stannous ch or de , and crea of tartar , and bo l for m 4 4 l 10 minutes . Then add enough cold water to ake to % gal ons for im m hl the dye bath , erse the wool , thoroug y wet and squeezed out of in i - ur water , and br g slowly to the bo l (about three fo ths of an hour) . 1 i dr i . Bo l for hour , r nse , and y If 2 oun ces Of cochineal are used in place of the four - ﬁfths of an oun ce i is i a l ght scarlet Obta ned . Fla red — F r un of dr w : g o each po d y wool , allo

hi n l ounces pow dered coc ea .

o m f t rt r . 3} {, ounces crea o a a nt ni tri i 1 % oun ces conce rated c ac d .

V4 ounce stannous chl oride . in m in w Soak the coch eal and crea of tartar ater , and add to the r 4 4 ll n i 1 mi ili fo . 0 bo ng water the dye bath ( to % ga o s) Bo l for nutes , i ni i i n hl i i then stra n , and add the tr c ac d and stan ous c or de prev ously f w i : A lw a s our ac er dissolved in 1 cup o ater . (Caut on y p id into w at $ in dr w i never w ater into acid . i ) Put the y ool , st r well , and let bo l for i dr i . HQ hour s . St r constantly . R nse and y A m erican b eauty red — For each pound of wool m ordanted with m ll : alu , a ow l 1 ounce pow dered co chi nea . i um i in Mordant the wool w th al (p . Soak the coch neal water 1 ur il for 1 5 min i and to for ho , bo utes , stra n , add enough cold water mm m 4 4 . l ake to % gallons for the dye bath I erse the wool , thoroughy i l il r . r nsed and squeezed out of water , heat gradual y , and bo for HQ hou s

Rinse and dry . P r le — F r of w m i m ll w : u p o each pound ool ordanted w th chro e , a o

2% ounces pow dered cochi neal .

1 teasp oon Vinegar . wi m i hin Mordant the wool th chro e (p . Bo l the coc eal and w 1 mi i A dd vinegar in a little ater for 0 nutes and stra n . enough cold w m 4 4 imm m ater to ake to % gallons for the dye bath , erse the ordanted hl in of i wool , thoroug y r sed and squeezed out water , bo l for HQ hours , i r r nse and d y . COFFEE BEANS (Coﬁea arabi ca)

Coffee will dye wool a dark yellow- tan that has good color fastness i h i The on and a l g t brown that has fa r fastness . colors cotton are not

fast .

- — ark ell w t an . For n of m i m y o each pou d wool ordanted w th chro e , a11Dow :

oun r p ds g ound coffee. i m i ff in Mordant the wool w th chro e (p . Bo l the co ee water for 20 mi i m 4 4 nutes , stra n , and add enough cold water to ake to % gallons mm or hl i for the dye bath . I erse the yarn cloth thoroug y r nsed and out f mi i o i . squeezed water and bo l for 30 nutes R nse and dry . i h — t r w n . F r c f m i m l w : L g b o o ea h pound o wool ordanted w th alu , a lo

1 ounds roun ff % p g d co ee. ounce erro l h M$ f us su p ate (copp eras) .

wi i Mordant the wool th alum (p . and dye as d rected for Dark w - Yello Tan . Without rinsing put the w ool into a boiling bath Of HO ME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 17

in 4 of i i 10 ferrous sulphate gallons water , st r carefully , and bo l for m utes i and m . R nse dry .

C I ore OREOPS S FLOWERS (C opsis sp . )

i mm nl $ The coreops s , co o y called the yellow dye flower is widely in i i i used color ng yarns and fabr cs for hand craft purposes . On wool , r or hi the flowers produce a dark bu nt orange terra cotta , w ch has good i color fastness . Coreops s flowers do not dye cotton . Dark burnt orange — For each pound of wool mordanted with r m : ch o e , use

1 to 1 ecks resh coreo sis r hea s % p f p ﬂow e d .

i r m i in Mordant the wool w th ch o e (p . Bo l the ﬂowers water to or 1 0 or 15 mi i o m cover f nutes , stra n , and add enough cold water t ake for m 4 4 . m or to }é gallons the dye bath I erse the yarn cloth , thor hl i out of for 20 mi oug y r nsed and squeezed water , and boil nutes or ir is i i until the des ed color obta ned . R nse and dry .

COTTON FLOWERS (Gossypi um sp . )

one of our m i of i The flowers of the cotton plant , a n sources text le ni m a fibers , also fur sh a dye . Cotton flowers y be used fresh for

in or fi . dye g , dry and nely crushed wi m i On wool mordanted th chro e , cotton flowers g ve a brass color i i that has fair fastness to l ght and good fastness to wash ng . By — another method , they produce a yellow tan with good color fastness . i - i On cotton , these flowers g ve a yellow and a yellow tan , wh ch have i fair and good color fastness respect vely . — of m w m : B rass . For each pound wool ordanted ith chro e , allow

n o er 1 % quarts dry cotto ﬂ w s .

i hr m i Mordant the wool w th c o e (p . Bo l the dry crushed cotton i i m 4 ﬂowers f or 20 m nutes , stra n , and add enough cold water to ake mm or to 4 % gallons for the dye bath . I erse the yarn cloth thor i in out 30 m . oughly rinsed and squeezed of water , and bo l for utes

Rinse and dry . Y - n — of m n i m ellow t a . For each pound wool orda ted w th alu , or for $ i m - - m ll : each pound of cotton mordanted w th alu tannin alu , a ow

rs quarts d ry crushed cotton ﬂow e .

ounce p otassium dichrom ate.

c aci or 6 to 7 ta les oons vine ar . ounce aceti d , b p g

m 6 or i m - in Mordant the wool with alu (p . ) the cotton w th alu tann T i i . alum (p . and dye as directed under Brass hen w thout rins ng put the m aterial into a boiling bath of the potassium dichrom ate and

of for 10 mi . acetic acid in 4 to 4 }é gallons water , and boil nutes longer

Rinse and dry . Y l — of m n Wi m - tanm n el ow . For each pound cotton orda ted th alu m ll : alu , a ow

ers 1 % quarts dry cotton ﬂow .

- — 6 and Mordant the cotton with alum tannin alum (p . ) dye as directed for Brass .

1 0 6 2 6 ° — 35 I . B I A I 2 . 1 M C C O 30 . . F 8 S PU L T N , U S DEPT O A GRI CU LTURE

C C A c c UT H ( a i a sp . )

or m im w Cutch catechu , one of the ost portant bro n vegetable dyes , Is the dri ed extract obtam ed from the wood of various species of . i rowm In Indl a J E i acac a g g , ava , and the ast Ind es . Cutch can be i m su l m ni Obta ned fro houses pp y g dyes and bota cal drugs . On i n i both wool and cotton , cutch g ves a ﬁ e r ch brown when applied . WIth i m i m . its copper sulphate and potass u d chro ate On cotton , fast i i s i hin nes to l ght fa r , and fastness to was g good $ on wool , both are goosi

- B r w n . For of w or o each pound dry ool cotton , allow :

4 oun c tch ces u . o nc co er s l h u e pp u p ate . ounce tassium ichr m po d o ate.

i u in i ll i Bo l the cutch and copper s lphate water unt l we d ssolved . i i hot in or i Wh le st ll , put the yarn cloth wh ch has been boiling a short im in i ni t e clear water , st r well , and let stand over ght . In the morning squeeze the m aterial from the cutch solution and put into a hot bath m ade by dissolving the potassium dichrom ate in 4 to gallons of i in soft water . St r well and let stand this for 4 5 minutes just below i ili m . bo ng te perature R nse and dry .

I DAHL A FLOWERS (Dahlia sp . )

The dahlias comm on in flower gardens furnish a good source of i i orange dye for wool . Yellow flowers g ve clearer and br ghter colors i a i is m than p nk ones lthough the r color fastness the sa e . On wool m i m ll li i ordanted w th chro e , ye ow dah a flowers g ve an orange color i i d that has fa r fastness to l ght and goo fastness to washing . The i wi m m i yellow obta ned th an alu ordant has poor fastness to l ght . i D ahl a flowers do not dye cotton . O ran e — f m i m g For each pound O wool ordanted w th chro e , use:

t 1 eeks resh ahlia o ers 1 o 54 p f d ﬂ w .

i hr i Mordant the wool w th c om e (p . Cut the ﬂowers up and bo l 1 15 mi in in water to cover for 0 to nutes , stra , and add enough cold m m water to m ake 4 to 4 54 gallons for the dye bath . I erse the yarn r hl i of il o cloth thoroug y r nsed and squeezed out water , and bo for

i . 20 minutes . R nse and dry

FUSTI C (Chlorophora tinctori a)

in Fustic is probably one of the best yellow dyes found nature . It i m of in i is Obta ned fro the wood a tree that grows Mex co , Cuba , and

i hi or . Nicaragua . It can be purchased e ther as wood c ps as an extract

- i . On wool , fust c produces a gold color and a dark yellow tan On

- All . it i li . cotton , g ves a ghter yellow tan have good color fastness The colors with alum and tin m ordants are brighter but their fastness i s poor . old — F r f m i m use: G o each pound o wool ordanted w th chro e ,

n i V2 ou ce fust c extract . i i in Mordant the w ool with chrom e (p . D ssolve the fust c u 4 4 ll imm or eno gh water for the dye bath ( to }é ga ons) , erse the yarn . hl i bOll 30 cloth , thoroug y r nsed and squeezed out of water , and for HOME DYE ING WITH NA TURA L DYES 19

i ili i as i i . m nutes . R nse and dry Prolonged bo ng should be avo ded th s m causes the color to beco e dull and brown .

- - Yellow t an . For of m i m each pound wool ordanted w th alu , or for of m i m - i - m : each pound cotton ordanted w th alu tann n alu , allow

nce ustic extract ou f . tassium ich m ounce po d ro ate. n a t c aci d r 6 to ta l s n f in r ou ce ce o e oo s o e . $ 4, i , 7 b p V ga

i m 6 the i Mordant the wool w th alu (p . ) and cotton w th alum - i i i m . in i tann n alu (p and dye as d rected for Gold . W thout r s ng put the m aterial into a boiling bath of the potassium dichr om ate and i i 4 4 i 1 0 mi acet c ac d in to % gallons of water and bo l nutes longer . is m i and . Rinse dry On cotton the color uch l ghter than on wool .

GOLDENROD FLOWERS (S olidago sp . )

Flowers of the goldenrod that grow wild in ﬁelds and along road

or i ‘ i sides can be used f dye ng wool . They g ve a brass color and a - i i i - yellow brown . With nd go , goldenrod g ves dark green shades $ with - Al l of m . h adder , a terra , cotta and a rose brown t ese colors have i i good fastness to light and to wash ng . The green sh yellow that goldenrod gives on wool m ordanted with alum and the colors it produces on cotton are not fast to light . The goldenrod ﬂow ers should be picked as they are coming into bloom and used fresh . B rass — For of m i m : each pound wool ordanted w th chro e , use

1 to 1% pecks fresh goldenrod ﬂow ers .

i $ i ﬂ in Mordant the wool w th chrom e (p . Bo l the owers water 1 1 mi i to cover for 0 to 5 nutes , stra n , and add enough cold water to m m make 4 to 4 % gallons for the dye bath . I erse the yarn or cloth o o i 2 i thoroughly wet and squeezed ut f water and bo l for 0 m nutes .

Rinse and dry . - n — f m wi m Y ll o . e ow b r w For each pound o wool ordanted th alu , allow :

1 to 1% pecks fresh goldenrod ﬂow ers .

ounce potassium dichrom ate .

i ci or 6 to 7 ta les oons vine ar. ounce acet c a d , b p g i Mordant the wool with alum (p . and dye as d rected for i i or h i i i Brass . Then w thout rins ng put the yarn clot nto a bo l ng o i m i m i in 4 4 bath f the potass u . d chro ate and acetic ac d to }é gallons

i . i i 10 m . R of water . St r carefully and bo l for inutes nse and dry

HICKORY NUT HULLS (Hicoria laciniosa)

i i m m nl bi Th s h ckory tree , co o y called g shellbark , grows through out the eastern half of the U nited States from New York to Iowa l and south to Tennessee and Oklahom a . The hu ls are very large and

is . thick and produce a light brown on wool . The color fastness good i h - m Wi um L g t b row n . For each pound of wool ordanted th al , allow :

1 peck green hickory nut hulls . m t ounce potassium dichro a e.

etic aci or 6 t o 7 ta les oons ne ar. ounce ac d, b p Vi g u ul Mordant the wool w ith alum (p . Cut p the green h ls and m i soak overnight in water to cover . In the orn ng heat gradually , let B ICA IO 2 30 . s . . O F A IC 20 MISC . PU L T N , U DEPT GR ULTURE

i m 4 4 l o boil 4 5 minutes , stra n , and add water to ake to Vgal ons f r the m m m i i dye bath . I erse the wool ater al thoroughly r nsed and squeezed out of w ater and boil 30 minutes . Without rinsing put i n a boiling i m h m i i ti bath of the potass u dic ro ate and acet c ac d , s r carefully , and r boil for 10 minutes . Rinse and d y .

B b HOLLYGRAPE ROOT ( er eris sp . )

in m i in l is i The color g atter conta ned ho lygrape root berber ne , the in the O i on o sam e as that present bark and root f barberry . It s e f i ur f . or it the few nat al bas c dyestuf s Hollygrape , Oregon grape as m im in is . o so et es called , grows the Northwestern States On w ol , hollygrape root gives a buff and a light tan which have fair color its no . fastness . On cotton colors are t fast B uff — un m i m : For each po d of wool ordanted w th alu , allow

1 peck chopped hollygrape root .

i m r Mordant the wool w th alu (p . Soak the chopped root ove m nin i ni in . i 2 ght water to cover In the or g bo l for hours , stra n , and add enough water to m ake 4 to gall ons for the dye bath . Im m erse the yarn or cloth thoroughly rinsed and squeez ed out of water and in boil for 30 minutes . R se and dry . T m — n m wi m : a For each pou d of wool ordanted th alu , allow

1 p eck chopped hollygrape root . m i h m t ounce potassiu d c ro a e . t l n n c tic ci or t o 7 a es oo s vine r . ou ce a e a d , 6 b p ga i m i Mordant the wool w th alu (p . 6 ) and dye as d rected above . Without rinsing put into a boiling bath of the potassium dichrom ate )

i i i ul i 10 mi . i and acet c ac d , st r caref ly , andgbo l nutes longer R nse and dry . I I n o ND GO (I dig fera sp . )

one of ff n fis use Indigo , the oldest dyestu s k own , was probably r t d i in India and Egypt . D uring the s xteenth century it w as i ntroduced into Europe where it m et with much Opposi tion from the cul tivators i — i i s i i of a s milar dye woad . Ind go st ll extens vely used and can be i - i Obta ned at m any dye supply houses . On both wool and cotton t Is i n produces a dark blue that very fast to l ght and to washi g . i o Indigo does not requ re a m ordant . It belongs to the gr up Of vat s o ll i In i i dyes , ca ed because they are appl ed a spec al k nd Of dye bath l i i i i s not 1n i firs at . i t m ca led a v S nce nd go tself soluble water , ust t be changed by a reducing agent and then dissolved In alkali s o that or i m i i s the wool cotton fiber can take t up . The ater al dyed by repeatedly dipping it in the dye vat and holding it in the air until the i r des red color i s developed and perm anently fixed i n the fibe . The i fermentat on and hydrosul phite vats are described here .

IND I GO FERMENTATION VAT O R BLUE - P O T

i The ferm entat on vat or blue - pot is the oldest m ethod Of dyeing on with indi go . The bacteria that develop In the vat act the dye to an in m i s m reduce d change it . Although dye g by this ethod so ewhat m i i s iﬂi ul i n i co pl cated , there no d c ty develop ng a good , fast dark blue on both wool and cotton if the vat i s properly prepared . With few er di m i m ps , a ed u blue and a light blue are Obtained . HO ME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 21

Dark lue — Of : b For each pound wool or cotton , allow

8 ounces ﬁnel ow ere in i y p d d d go . 4 ounces w heat r n b a . 4 ounces m a er dd . I oun s so ium car onate w hin VE p d d b ( as g soda) . 4 ll n t ga o s w a er. i i in m ° Mix ngred ents and let stand a war place (85 F . ) from 5 to 10 un i mi ur i ui days t l the xt e develops a d sagreeable odor , a bl sh , coppery m scu on top , and green streaks through it . The dye is then ready to

- . i i use The blue pot should be st rred well each morn n g . Wool yarn or cloth m ay be dyed in the indigo vat without a m or t m mo i i m dan , though so e dyers prefer rdant ng w th alu (p . Good ul i is res ts are also obtained when the wool , before be ng dyed , soaked for 30 minutes in a solution of one- half ounce of washing s oda to 4 of m ri i - gallons lukewar water and nsed well . If the ndigo dyed wool is to be top - dyed with yellow it is advisable to mordant wi th alum i or i i i i o e ther before after dy ng w th nd g . or is i Cotton yarn cloth also dyed w thout a mordant , though m im s is m i m A of so et e it ordanted w th alu (p . nother method preparing cotton for dyeing is to boil it for 30 minutes in a solution one- un i m i 4 of half o ce of sod u hydrox de to gallons of water , and i r nse well . TO w i i i ﬁ dye th the nd go vat , rst wet the wool or cotton thoroughly , it in i m and then dip the vat , wh ch should be kept lukewar , stir well , i i out i air i i i l ft the fabr c nto the at ntervals . The cloth w ll be green sh in on i in air i yellow the dye vat but be ng taken out the , w ll soon i u i i i i for 30 develop the blue color . Cont n e the d pp ng and a r ng mi out air e nutes , then squeeze the dye , and for half an hour . R peat i im i i im of im m i of th s process several t es , ncreas ng the t e ers on the i i i i Al cloth in the dye unt l the des red color s obta ned . so turn and stir the m aterial in the dye occasionally to insure an even color . is i m i in When the color dark enough , r nse the ater al lukewarm water m i m w i i i i i . and dry . Fe er d pp ngs w ll g ve a ed u blue and a l ght blue n t u im in i Take care o to dist rb the sed ent the vat , or the fabr cs i A i w ll be streaked and unevenly dyed . lso do not st r the dye vat too i it m it i and ﬁt . uch , or w ll turn blue no longer be for dye ng In case m i m i i does beco e blue , the vat can be renewed by add ng ore nd go , m A i or i . bran , madder , and sod u carbonate fter stand ng for a day i - is tw o it i . , w ll be ready to use aga n In this way the blue pot kept m going and can be used many ti es .

I NDI GO HYDROSULPHITE VAT

The hydrosulphite vat is the most easily regulated of the indigo o A i i i vats and is extensively used at present . stock solut on of nd go , i is i s an alkal , and hydrosulphite prepared as follows and the dye vat m ade up by adding this solution to water : i 4 % ounces pow dered ind go .

3 ounces sodium hydroxide. h 2% ounces sodium hydrosulp ite. Mix the powdered indigo w ith the sodium hydroxide which has Ad m 1 been dissolved in water . d water to ake gallon and heat to ° 120 i and i m i w . F . St r well add the sod u hydrosulph te slo ly Let i a stand for 30 minutes . The liqu d should be clear and yellow , and I 2 B A I . . MI C . C O 30 s . O F A I 22 S PU L T N , U DEPT GR CULTURE drop running on a sheet Of glass should require about 2 5 seconds to E i m a . i n turn blue xtra stock solut on y be kept a stoppered bottle .

— Dark l e . n or w : b u For each pou d of wool cotton , allo

2 to 2 uarts in i o h r osul hi stock olu i n % q d g yd p te s t o . E t o cup sodium hy drosul phite solution (prepared by slow ly addin g ounce sodi um hydrosul phite t o 1 quart w ater and keeping the solution in r l a stoppe ed b ott e) .

° for 12 F 0 . Heat the water the dye vat to , add the half cup of m hi i i l di ul w 1 in . so u hydros p te solut on , st r el , and let stand for 0 m utes T i di d ul hi i i and hen add the n go hy ros p te stock solut on , st r gently , 2 mi The i 0 . s use d i allow to stand for nutes vat then ready to for ye ng . The i ul in l quor sho d be clear and yellow color . Both wool and cotton are d yed in the hydrosulphite vat without m n m i is to - w i orda ts . In case the ater al be top dyed th another color , i m i um it is adv sable to ordant w th al (p . 6 ) either before or after i i i hi i i . s dye ng w th nd go However , t s depends on the dye that to l w fol o . d e i hi ﬁr h w di it in To y w th t s vat , st wet the clot ell , then p the vat , and i i for 30 mi w i m ri w ll st r occas onally nutes , al ays keep ng the ate al e r i i i i i it in cove ed w th the dye . W thout squeez ng or r ns ng , hang the ir n i i n i hi i in a 30 mi di . for utes , then p aga n the vat Cont nue t s d pp g i i un i i is i i hl and a r ng t l the des red color obta ned , then r nse thoroug y , in m w in i . ash soapsuds , and r nse aga If the vat turns blue , add ore dium r ul hi i i so hyd os p te solut on , st r the vat carefully , and let stand for $ m r hi 1 5 minutes before using . Also add ore of the indigo hyd osulp te i stock solut on as needed . I RON BUFF

On i m ul uf cotton w thout a ordant , ferrous s phate produces a b f color ' ir w n that has fa fastness to light and w ashing . On ool the fast ess to i is l ght poor . ff - r of unm or Bu . Fo each pound dry ordanted cotton yarn cloth , use :

f rr h 6 ounces e ous sul p ate (copperas) . n s ow r s 6 ou ce p de ed oap .

i ul in 4 4 of w in D ssolve the ferrous s phate to }égallons ater , put the l i cotton , thorough y wet and squeezed out of water , st r for a few mi m i di it i i nutes , re ove , and dra n . Then p nto soapsuds , st r , and w in hr im in dr r g . Repeat t ee t es $ then r se and y .

J UNI PER BERRI ES (J unip erus Sp . )

w in m n i U ni er , also called red cedar , gro s a y sect ons of the ted i ur i w i i . States . The bark , berr es , and t gs are su table for dye ng p poses w ni i i i w i i m On ool , ju per berr es g ve a khak color hen appl ed w th alu l i and w hi J i u is a . and copper s phate . It fast to l ght to s ng un per not berries do dye cotton . Kh ki — For a . n w : each pou d of ool , allow

2 uarts ri ni q pe $u per berries . 2 ounces otash lum p a . oun i ce amm on um chl oride . 1 un r f o ce c eam o tartar . 1 ounce co r h ppe sul p ate. 1 ounce co r t ppe aceta e.

B I A I 2 I . C C O . . 24 30 s . F M S PU L T N , U DEPT O A GRICU LTURE

m m s hl i out of an I er e the wool thoroug y r nsed and squeezed water , d i i for 30 mi . bo l nutes R nse and dry . — Yello t an . of w m i m w For each pound ool ordanted w th chro e , allow :

1 t 2 eeks rush r li % o p c ed d y chens .

ordant wi m the wool th chro e (p . 6) and dye as directed under B1lg k - — Dar rose tan . For each poun d of w ool m ordanted with alum w allo .

1 t 2 k r h r i % o p ee s c us ed d y l chens . n i i m ou ce p otass um d chro ate. ounce acetic aci or 6 t o 7 ta les o ns vin r d, b p o ega .

w i al m ’ . 6 B Mordant the ool w th u (p ) and dye as for uﬂ . Then without rinsing put the w ool in a boiling bath of the potas sium dichrom ate and acetic acid or vinegar in 4 gallons of water and boil Ri for 10 minutes . nse and dry .

LI LY- O F - THE - VALLEY LEAVE S (Convallari a m a$ alis)

n m i hr m u — O wool ordanted w th c o e , the fresh , yo ng leaves of lily oi - ll i v i ni l the va ey g e a l ght gree sh ye low color . The fastness to light i s w ashin o ir od . i n fa , and the fastness to g g Leaves gathered the late m m or i m i su er fall g ve a gold colorgto wool ordanted w th chrom e .

They do not dye cotton . reen sh ell w — For n w m i hr m G i y o each pou d of ool ordanted w th c o e , use:

k e r h n lil - f- h - v shr e es ou O t ll l v . HQ p ee s dd d f , y g y e a ey ea es

w r or i hr m Mordant the ool ya n cloth w th c o e (p . Soak the ni m ni leaves In water over ght . In the or ng heat slowly and boil for 1 ur i w m 4 4 ho , stra n , and add enough cold ater to ake to % gallons imm m for . m i the dye bath When cool , erse the ordanted ater al , in out of i 4 5 thoroughly r sed and squeezed water , and bo l for minutes .

Rinse and dry .

LOGWOOD (Haematoxylon camp echianum)

o one of m n i ur uff is L gwood , the ost exte s vely used nat al dyest s , i m w in J m i al obta ned fro a tree that gro s Cub a, a a ca , and Centr r m i a dr Am erica . It can be pu chased fro dye and botan c l ug supply hi r a an i In i o i houses as wood c ps o s extract e ther l quid r sol d form . i i m it i i of i W th var ous ordants g ves a w de range colors , but the r i i and m of m fastness to l ght var es considerably , ost the fade rather i of i i of hi rap dly . In fact , because the fug t ve character t s dye , Q ueen Elizabeth issued an edict prohibiting its use and directing that all n logw ood found shoul d be bur ed . On wool the black produced with sum ac and ferrous sulphate is

i . as . fast to light and fast to wash ng On cotton , the colors are not f t — ll f . Black . o For each pound wool , a ow i 9 ounces logw ood ch ps . n i ou ce fust c ext ract . n w i 1 % p eeks chopped sum ac leav es a d t gs . w in so 1 ounce sodium carb onate ( ash g da) .

V1 ounce ferrous sulphate (copp eras) . n i m ou ce p otassium d chr o ate . HOME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 25

k m w i in w ni Soa the fresh su ac leaves and t gs ater over ght . In the mo i i 30 mi in r rn ng bo l for nutes , stra , and add enough wate for the m 4 to En or hl ordant bath ( gallons) . ter the yarn cloth , thoroug y f n i o a d . wet and squeezed out water , soak overn ght The next m nin out m i i i in for 10 or g , squeeze the ater al , and , w thout r ns g , work ° ° mi in of i n 12 14 nutes a bath the sod um carbo ate at 0 to 0 F . Then squeeze out the wool and work in a cool solution of ferrous sulphate i r 1 n for 30 m nutes . Return to the soda bath fo 5 minutes a d rinse Tie w i in r . il o 20 thoroughly the log ood ch ps a cheesecloth bag , bo f m i of i r i nutes , and add the logwood extract and bag ch ps , togethe w th i 4 r m 4 fo . the fust c , to enough water to ake to % gallons the dye bath mm or i for 30 mi u I erse the yarn cloth and bo l nutes , then pass thro gh i f i i in o m di m . a warm solut on the potass u chro ate R nse well , work i s . warm oap suds , r nse , and dry

MADDER (Rubia tinctorum)

is m i i of m i Madder dye ade by gr nd ng the root the adder plant , wh ch r r i The i E has been cultivated fo a dyestuff fo centur es . anc ent gyp i u it i it in i but m of it t ans sed , the Moors cult vated Spa n , today ost m i m - ﬁom es fro the Netherlands . It can be obta ned fro dye supply ouses . Because of the beauty and fastness of its tints and the range Of i m m w as i colors produced by var ous ordants , adder once cons dered no it l m im f . w the ost portant of all dyestu fs However , has ittle m m it - co ercial value , for has been replaced by the coal tar product i i hi is i i in m si i i i al zar ne , w ch dent cal co po t on and propert es to the color ng principle in m adder . m i hi On wool , adder g ves lacquer red and garnet colors , w ch are hi m i i a i an a . very f st to l ght d to w s ng When co b ned w th quercitron , it produces a bright orange that has fair fastness to light and good hi m i d hi has fastness to was ng . On cotton , adder g ves a ark red w ch hi good fastness to light and fair fastness to was ng . — f m n m w : Lacq uer red For each pound o wool orda ted with alu , allo

8 ounces m adder . i m in m Mordant the wool w th alum (p . Soak the adder a s all i of i i i i 4 quant ty water overn ght , br ng to a bo l , and pour nto gallons m m or hl of water for the dye bath . I erse the yarn cloth , thoroug y

i of w i for 4 5 mi u . r nsed and squeezed out ater , heat slowly , and bo l n tes Ri dr nse and y .

A dark lacquer red is obtained by using twice as much m adder .

Mordant the wool in alum and soak the m adder overnight as before . for im m m In the morning add enough w ater the dye bath , erse the ate

i hl n and out of . r al , thoroug y ri sed squeezed water , and heat gradually ° ° i i for 2 . not i at 140 160 F . Do bo l , but keep to , st rr ng constantly hours

i and . Let cool in the bath , r nse , dry — of : B right orange For each pound wool , allow

r V2 ounce cream O f tarta . i 1 ounce stannous chlor de .

ounce quercitron extract .

Hi ounces m adder . Dissolve the cream of tartar and three - fourths Of the stannous i in 4 to 4 imm t e or chlor de % gallons of water , erse h yarn cloth , thor R e Of bOII 4 5 mi . oughly wet and squeezed out water , and for nutes 2 2 I C . B ICA IO 30 . s . . O F IC 6 M S PU L T N , U DEPT A GR ULTURE m m i i m ove the ater al , add the querc tron , adder , and the rem ainder nn hl i i u i i of the sta ous c or de , and st r well nt l d ssolved . Return the i i for 30 mi i wool to the bath , st r carefully , and bo l nutes . R nse and dry .

— arnet red . For w m i m G each pound of ool ordanted w th chro e , ai low : m 8 ounces adder .

wi r m and i Mordant the wool th ch o e (p . 6 ) dye as d rected under

Lacquer Red . Dark red — For each pound of cotton m ordanted with alum ni - m : tan n alu , allow

m r 8 ounces adde .

i m - ni — m Mordant the cotton w th alu tan n alu , (p . First dye bath : Prep ar e a dye bath from 2 ounces of the m adder ni imm hl that has been soaked over ght , erse the cotton , thoroug y of i ull i rinsed and wrung out water , st r caref y , and heat unt l luke m K i i m m 1 war . eep st rr ng and hold at a lukewar te perature for m i ni hour . Then let the dye bath cool and the ater al stand over ght i e n the dy bath . Second dye bath : Repeat the entire process of the ﬁr st dye bath u in hi m 3 of m hi s g , t s ti e , ounces adder w ch has been soaked over ni i in ght . St r well , cool gradually , and let stand the dye bath over ni in ght . R se and dry . Third dye bath : Repeat the process described for the second dye in of m i ll ﬁ in bath , us g the rest the adder . R nse we and nally wash s i i oapsuds and r nse aga n .

I Ta e s s MAR GOLD FLOWERS ( g te p . )

The coloring m atter in the flower of the garden m arigold is simil ar i i in . m to that black or querc tron oak bark On wool , ar gold flowers - i produce a brass color and a dark yellow tan , both hav ng good fastness hin i - to light and to was g . On cotton , they g ve a yellow tan that has i Ei dr a m . fa r color fastness . ther fresh or y flowers y be used If dry , - hi - i mm use about one t rd to one half the quant ty reco ended here . B rass - un of m wi m l w : For each po d wool ordanted th chro e , a lo h h 1 to 1 % p eeks fres m arigold flow er eads .

n i hr m il in Morda t the wool w th c o e (p . Bo the ﬂowers water for 10 1 5 mi i and to cover to nutes , stra n , add enough cold water to m 4 ll or m m a or ake 4 to }é ga ons f the dye bath . I erse the y rn cloth i 2 i thoroughly r nsed and squeezed out Of water and boil for 0 m nutes . Ri nse and dry .

l - n - m w m Yel w t a . n of i o For each pou d wool ordanted th alu , or

- - for of m i m i a m . each pound cotton ordanted w th alu tann n lu , allow t l h 1 o 1 % p eeks fresh m arigo d ﬂow er eads . ounc t m i hr m t e p o assiu d c o a e .

ounce acetic aci or 6 to 7 ta le oons vine ar . d , b sp g

n m and C wi al m Morda t the wool with alu (p . 6) the otton th the u i - m ir i i i tann n alu (p . Dye as d ected for Brass . W thout r ns ng , put the fabric or yarn into a boiling bath of the potassium dichrom ate and i i or n i for 10 mi u . acet c acid , vi egar , and bo l n tes longer R nse and The — . m on dry yellow tan is uch darker on wool than cotton . HOME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 27

MOUNTAIN- LAUREL LEAVES (K almia latifolia)

OD m i r m m i - wool , ordanted w th cho e , ounta n laurel leaves produce a - Th astness i l . e i s i hi yel ow tan f to l ght fa r , and to was ng good . Moun i - ta n laurel leaves do not dye cotton .

- — Yellow t an . For of m i m : each pound wool ordanted w th chro e , use

1 eeks shre e resh m ount in- l l l % p dd d f a aure eaves .

i m r Mordant the wool w th chro e (p . Soak the Sh edded leaves i In i i i . m 20 m overn ght water to cover In the orn ng bo l for nutes , i i 4 4 stra n the dye l quor , and add enough water to m ake to }égallons i d e . h c m m m for the y bath W en ool , erse the ordanted yarn or cloth , hl i of i mi . thoroug y r nsed and squeezed out water , and bo l for 30 nutes

. Rinse and dry .

ONION SKINS (A llium cep a)

The dry outer Skins of onion bulbs have long been used for coloring i i i fabr cs . On wool , the Yellow Globe on on g ves a burnt orange and a of is i brass color . color fastness the orange fa r , and Of the brass . The c s i o h ht hi . color fa r t g and good to was ng On cotton , the olor fastnes i s poor . n oran e — c m m B r t g For ea h pound of wool ordanted with alu , a11owu :

n k n 10 ounces dry Yellow Globe o ion s i s .

' i i the onion i Mordant the yarn or cloth w th alum (p . Bo l sk ns 1 5 mi i to in water to cover for nutes , stra n , and add enough cold water mm m i or . m ake 4 to 4 % gallons f the dye bath I erse the ater al , n out Of i i for thoroughly ri sed and squeezed water , st r carefully , and bo l

i . 30 minutes . R nse and dry — m 6 B rass U se yarn or cloth m ordanted with chro e (p . ) and proceed as for Burnt Orange .

’ OSAGE ORANGE O R B O Is D ARC (Toxylon p omiferum)

- The The Indians dyed with Osage orange wood . trees are very The abundant in the southw estern part Of the United States . chipped wood can be used and the dye extract prepared as for log wood or the dye can be purchased as a liquid extract or in solid or m powdered for . 0 i i astness On wool , Osage orange produces a gold color wh ch has fa r f . hi - i to light and good fastness to was ng , and a yellow tan w th good it i i - hi has color fastness . On cotton g ves a l ght yellow tan w ch good color fastness . — m Wi c m : Gold For each pound of wool ordanted th hro e , use

1 - A ounce Osage orange extract .

$ i - n Mordant the wool with chr om e (p . D ssolve the Osage ora ge im m extract in 4 to 4 % allons of water for the dye bath , erse the g . yarn bOIl for in out of , or cloth , thoroughly r sed and squeezed water and

i and . 30 minutes . R nse dry

Y - — m w m or for ellow t an . For each pound of wool ordanted ith alu , i m - i - m : each pound of cotton m ordanted w th alu tann n alu , allow

- ounce O sage orange extract . I m t . $ ounce po tassium dichro a e A 0

c or 6 to 7 ta les oons ne ar . ounce acetic a id , b p Vi g I I C . B CA IO 2 . . F 28 M 30 s . I S PU L T N , U DEPT O A GR CULTURE

i m - Mordant the wool w th alu (p . 6) or the cotton with alum tannin 6 m . dir for . i i i alu (p ) and dye as ected Gold Then , w thout r ns ng , put the yarn or cloth In a boiling bath of the potassium dichr om ate i i in in 4 ll and acet c ac d , or v egar , ga ons of water . Stir carefully i 10 mi R i dr and bo l for nutes . nse and y .

PE CAN HULLS (Hicoria p ecan)

in di Pecan trees grow Iowa , In ana , and the Southern States . On i i wool , pecan hulls produce a brown wh ch has fa r fastness to ligght and hi o i . i i fastness was ng On cott n , they g ve a dark gray w th fa r color . B row n — of m Wi m ll For each pound wool ordanted th alu , a ow . h V4 peck green pecan ulls .

i m ull m Mordant the wool w th alu (p . Cut the h s fro the nuts In w 1 mi an d 5 . i boil ater for nutes Stra n , add enough cold water to m 4 4 ll imm m i ake to V ga ons for the dye bath , erse the ater al , thor h i and out i 30 mi oug ly r nsed squeezed of water , and bo l for nutes .

Rinse and dr y . — un of m ra . n i um G y For each po d cotton orda ted w th al , allow : h peck green pecan ulls . n errou sul h te c r ou ce f s p a ( opp e as) .

wi m 6 as Mordant the cotton th alu (p . ) and dye for Brown i i in ilin b of W thout r nsing, put the cotton a bo g ath the ferrous sul in 4 ll of w i and i 1 mi phate ga ons ater , st r carefully , bo l for 0 nutes . n Rinse a d dry .

I I R PERS AN BERR ES ( hamnus sp . )

si i s al i i Per an berr e , so known as yellow berr es or French berr es , are i n i Ei in a d . grown France , Spa n , Italy , Pers a ther the dried berries or an extract can be bought from dye and botanical dr ug supply houses . i i i - tan On wool , Pers an berr es g ve a gold color and a dark yellow $ li ll - All hr an on . d cotton , a ghter ye ow tan t ee have good color n ss f ast e . ld — For n of m Wi hr m : Go each pou d wool ordanted th c o e , use

ounce P ersian berry extract .

m i v i Mordant the w ool with chr o e (p . D ssol e the Pers an berry extract in enough w ater for the dye bath (4 to 4 Vgallons) and strain r mm the w hl i and if necessa y . I erse ool thoroug y r nsed squeezed

out of and i 30 min . . water , bo l for utes Rinse and dry

Y - n — n of m n i al m or ellow t a . For each pou d wool orda ted w th u , of m i m - ni - a m w : for each pound cotton ordanted w th alu tan n lu , allo

x r ounce Persian b erry e t act .

oun ce p otassium di chrom ate .

unce acetic aci or 6 to 7 ta les oons vm e ar . o d , b p g m 6 i m Mordan t the w ool with alu (p . ) and the cotton w th alu - m i i i ni i . tan n alu (p . 6) and dye as d rected for Gold W thout r ns ng put the dyed yarn or cloth In a boiling bath of the potassium dichro m and i i or in 4 ir ull ate acet c ac d vin egar gallons of water . St caref y il 1 mi i dr and bo for 0 nutes . R nse and y . HOME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 29

P o ulus ni ra i alica POPLAR LEAVES , LOMBARDY ( p g t )

The Lom bardy poplar tree is widely cultivated in this country as an h m . e i . orna ental T leaves can be used for dye ng On wool , they n - produce a brass color that has good fast ess , and a yellow brown hi L om that has fair fastness to light and good fastness to was ng . bardy poplar leaves do not dye cotton . B ass — For m i hr m r each pound of wool ordanted w th c o e , allow :

1 eks shre e re h L m r l % p e dd d f s o ba dy pop ar leaves . i m Mordant the wool w th chro e (p . Cut up the fresh leaves ni in w m ni and soak over ght ater to cover . In the or ng heat gradually , i for 15 or 20 mi in a nd m 4 bo l nutes , stra , add cold water to ake to n m for . m m i gallo s the dye bath I erse the wool ater al , thoroughly i out of and i 2 mi Rin r nsed and squeezed water , bo l for 0 nutes . se and dry .

- — Yell w r w n . m m : o b o For each pound of wool ordanted with alu , use

eeks shre e resh Lom r l r le p dd d f ba dy pop a aves . m h ounce potassiu dic rom ate. in ounce acetic aci or 6 to 7 t le oons v e r . d , ab sp ga

i m f r . 6 o Mordant the wool w th alu (p ) and proceed as Brass . Without rinsi ng put in a boiling bath of the potassium dichrom ate i i or i i 10 mi and acet c ac d , v negar , st r carefully , and boil for nutes

Rinse and dry .

PRIV ET LEAV ES (L igustrum sp . )

m i mm nl n The dye fro the leaves of the pr vet , co o y used as an or a ’ m a old i ental shrub , produces on wool g color w th good fastness to

i wil . light and to washing . Pr vet leaves l not dye cotton l — For n O f w m wi r m use: Go d each pou d ool ordanted th ch o e,

1 1 2 p eeks Shredded fresh privet leaves .

r Mordant the w ool with chrom e (p . Soak the sh edded leaves i i or i in to . m f overn ght w ater cover In the orn ng heat gradually , bo l 2 2 5 in i out w 0 to m utes , stra n the leaves , and add enough cold ater to imm w m ake 4 to gallons for the dye bath . When cool , erse the ool in z out of i 20 30 thoroughly r sed and squee ed water , and bo l for to

m i . inutes . R nse and dry

SASSAFRAS ROOT BARK (S assafras variifolium)

Sassafras i s a shrub and tree common in the eastern half of the ni i i for U ted States . The bark of the root y elds a sat sfactory dye

wool and cotton . it - - of hi On wool , produces a rose tan and a rose brown , both w ch have

‘ oo fastness hi i fair fastness to light and g d to was ng , and a brown wh ch it i a has good color fastness . On cotton , g ves a d rk gray , and a dark

- n rose tan with fastness Similar to the colors o wool .

R o - — of m m se b row n . For each pound wool ordanted with chro e , allow : k 1 2 ounces dry sassafras root bar . the ni Mordant the wool with chrom e (p . Soak bark over ght i i 30 mi i n and in water to cover and in the m orn ng bo l for nutes , stra ,

add enough cold water to m ake 4 to gallons for the dye bath . I A I 2 0 . . . F I C . B C O 3 O A I 30 M S PU L T N , U S DEPT GR CULTU RE

mm s hl i e I er e the wool , thoroug y r ns d and squeezed out of water and i n a d . boil for 30 minutes . R nse dry — For B row n . m wi m l each pound of wool ordanted th alu , al ow :

1 2 ounces dr sassa ras root ark y f b . i m i hr m V$ ounce potass u d c o ate. ti i 6 o t le on in ounce ace c ac or t 7 a s o s e ar . V6 d, b p V g wi m Mordant the wool th alu (p . Soak the bark overnight In In m nin il 30 mi i water to cover and the or g bo for nutes , stra n , and add m 4 4 mm s enough cold water to ake to Vgallons for the dye bath . I er e the cloth thoroughly rinsed and squeezed out of water and boil for 30 i wi i i i t in i i nutes . Then thout r ns ng put a bo l ng bath of the potas m . i m di chrom i i i i 1 min s u ate and acet c ac d , st r carefully , and bo l 0 utes . n Rinse a d dry .

- h 1 — R ose tan m et d . of m , o For each pound cotton ordanted wi th a m - ni - um w : lu tan n al , allo

1 2 ounc dr sassa ras root k es y f bar . oun ot ssium i hrom t ce p a d c a e. tic aci r l n in ounce ace o 6 o 7 ta es oo s v e r . V$ d , t b p ga

- wi m - nnin - m Mordant the cotton th alu ta alu (p . 6 ) and proceed as directed un der Brown .

R - n m ho — m se t a et d 2 . un o , For each po d or wool ordanted with m w : alu , allo

2 n s k 1 ou ce dry sassafras root bar . n r l h ou ce fe rous su p ate (copperas) .

wi m dir t . 6 Mordant the wool th alu (p ) and dye as ec ed for Brown . using ferrous sulphate in place of the potassium dichrom ate and i a i or i acet c c d v negar . k r — For m i Dar g ay . each pound of cotton ordanted w th alum nni - a m : ta n lu , allow

1 2 ounces dry sassafras root bark .

ounce ferrous sulphate (copperas) .

- nin - Mordant the cotton with alum tan alum (p . 6 ) and proceed as - 2 m . for Rose Tan , ethod

SUMA C BERRI ES (Rhus glabra)

i m m as i i is m im Wh te , or s ooth su ac th s spec es so et es called , is a com m on shr ub in dry soil of the eastern half of the U nited m r . i of hi of States The berr es , leaves , and roots t s su ac are sou ces m i dye ater als . i a um m ri On wool mordanted w th l , su ac ber es produce a dark w hi w i ul yello tan w ch has good fastness , and th ferrous s phate they give colors ranging from dark gray to black depending on the am ount i i is i . used . The l ght fastness good and wash ng fastness fa r On m i i tan cotton , su ac berr es g ve a light or sand color and a dark gray, of i both wh ch have fair color fastness . D ark ll n - m um y e ow t a For each pound of wool ordanted with al , allow :

eck ri p pe sum ac berries . w i u Mordant the ool wi th alum (p . Soak the berr es for an ho r i i in water to cover , then boil 30 m nutes , stra n , and add enough cold w m mm s w 4 . ater to ake to 4 Vgallons for the dye bath I er e the ool ,

l in i 30 mi . thorough y r sed and squeez ed out of water, and bo l for nutes i dr R nse and y .

I I A I 2 C O . . 2 M C . U B 30 . F A I 3 S P L T N , U S DEPT O GR CULTUR E

TULI P TREE LEAVES (I/iri odendron tulipif era)

Leaves of the tulip tree or so- called yell ow poplar foun d in the l of the Uni w eastern ha f ted States , produce on ool a gold color that ir l i and w hin has fa fastness to ght good fastness to as g . On cotton , hi is t s dye not satisfactory . old — For un of w m n w m use G each po d ool orda ted ith chro e , :

eks shr r sh H4 p e edded f e tulip tree leaves .

i r m Mordant the wool w th ch o e (p . Soak the shr edded leaves ni in m ni . d over ght water to cover In the or ng heat gra ually , boil 2 0 2 5 mi i out v for to nutes , stra n the lea es , and add enough cold water m a 4 l mm to ke to gal ons for the dye bath . I erse the wool , u hl i out of w and i 20 30 i thoro g y r nsed and squeezed ater , bo l to m nutes . i R nse and dry .

L C J u lans ni ra WALNUT HU LS , BLA K ( g g )

Both the hulls and Shells Of the black walnut are used for dyes m l and m a ri a The hulls ust be col ected green , y then be d ed . M ny people believe that the dye prepared from dried hulls is better than m An m is that fro fresh ones . other ethod to cover the green hulls m w m wi i . m th water , and store the a ay fro the l ght The color beco es and m im v di darker brown See s to pro e on stan ng . unm - i w On ordanted wool , black walnut hulls g ve a dark bro n that h i u i m i as . m s good color fastness W th al , the color so ewhat br ghter , an its i is i A i in of w in d fastness to l ght fa r . void long bo l g ool the - i m w l ul t o . a nut h l dye bath , for akes the w ol harsh On cotton , the hulls produce a drab which has good fastness to light and fair fastness w hi to as ng . D rk n -F f unm d w ll w a r w . or o : b o each pound or anted ool , a o k p eck green hulls from blac w alnuts .

u l in w 30 i i 1 5 mi , Soak the h l s ater to cover for m nutes , bo l for nutes i n m 4 l stra n , and add e ough cold water to ake to gal ons for the mm hl out of dye bath . I erse the wool , thoroug y wet and squeezed i in i an dr d . w 2 0 m . ater , and bo l utes R nse y D — m w i m l w : r . of ab For each pound cotton ordanted th alu , al o

peck green hul ls from black w alnuts . i Mordant the m aterial with alum (p . and dye as d rected for A is i if m ri is Dark Brown . darker drab Obta ned the dyed ate al put , i i i i i ini one- i one- without r ns ng , nto a bo l ng bath conta ng s xth to half i 5 or 1 0 mi of an ounce of ferrous sulphate (copperas) . Bo l nutes longer $ rinse and dry .

IA O R I J u lans re ia WALNUT HULLS , PERS N ENGL SH ( g g )

The hulls are collected w hile still green . They are then ready for m a or m a i . use , they y be dr ed and used later as needed Or they y be w i w w as e put a ay in a wooden keg and covered w th ater , as sugg sted for — l black wa nut hulls . i w i i has On wool , Pers an alnut hulls produce a l ght brown wh ch i i fa r color fastness and by other m ethods of dye ng , darker Shades in i i w . that are fast to l ght and to ash g On cotton , they g ve a drab color with fair fastness to light and good fastness to w ashi ng . i h r n — F r of nm w : L g t b ow . o each pound u ordanted wool , allo 1 k P i p ec dry ers an w alnut hulls . HO ME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 33

dr ll in Soak the y hu s water to cover for an hour , then heat gradually , 1 i i . and bo l hour Stra n , and add enough cold water to m ake 4 to mm gallons for the dye bath . I erse the unm ordanted yarn or Of i 30 i cloth , thoroughly wet and squeezed out water, and bo l m nutes . n r is m i a d . i m R nse . d y If the wool ordanted w th alu , a darker brown is Obtained .

- Dark row n . For n w m w m w : b each pou d of ool ordanted ith alu , allo

1 k r Persian w alnut hu l pec d y l s . oun e otassium ichrom at V$ c p d e. ounce acet c aci d or 6 to 7 ta les on in V$ i , b p o s v egar.

i m i i i on Mordant the wool w th alu accord ng to the d rect ons page 6 , i i i . i i i and dye as d rected under L ght Brown W thout r ns ng t , put the yarn or cloth into a bath of the potassium dichrom ate and acetic acid in 4 of i ul 1 mi i gallons water , st r caref ly , and boil 0 nutes . R nse and dry . A grayer and darker brown will be Obtained if the fabric is boiled in a bath of one- sixth of an oun ce of ferrous sulpha te (copperas) instead of potassium dichrom ate and acetic acid . - F n n Dra . f m b or each pound o un orda ted cotto , allow :

k r i n n h l 1 pec dry Pe s a w al ut u ls . i Dye as d rected un der Light Brown .

I I $ NN A FLOWERS ($ innia sp . )

T $ inni in o he a ﬂow ers used these tests were f assorted colors . On wool m ordanted with alum they gave a light yellow or cream color that has fair color fastness and w ith chrom e a dark greenish yellow with good fastness . i h - ellow . F r n of m i m w L g t y o each pou d wool ordanted w th alu , allo :

f n i n r h p eek o fresh z i n a petals a d ﬂow e eads .

i m U i Mordant the wool w th alu (p . Cut p the ﬂowers and bo l or 10 1 mi is in water to cover f to 5 nutes until the color gone , then i m 4 stra n , and add enough cold water to ake to gallons for the dye i o b . m m r f ath I erse the wool , thoroughly nsed and squeezed out water ,

i i . and bo l 30 minutes . R nse and dry D rk ni h — n 6 and a gree s y ellow Morda t the w ool with chrom e (p . ) or i dye as directed f L ght Yellow .

TO P - D YEING

Top - dyeing or dyeing one color over another is often necessary in To w o of order to obtain a desired color . the dyer h has a sense color m it ff i fi i and color har ony , o ers a fasc nating eld , but all color princ ples — (pp . 3 4 ) m ust be rigidly follow ed . In top - dyeing remem ber that only good clear colors produce clear i . is if colors That , you want a good green , start with a br ght , clear l l or - and to it i yel ow , not a muddy ye low a yellow tan , p w th a good b i m m i ri lue . Yellows obta ned fro broo sedge , fust c extract , p vet il of leaves , or goldenrod flowers are satisfactory , but prolonged bo ing any of these is likely to dull the color . Of course , good greens are also ob ained by dyeing first with indigo and then top - dyeing with the fio ye w . m i i i l In the following recipes , dye ater als y eld ng ye low , red , brown , and one ro blue dyes were selected , and by dyeing over another they p - In du . ced fast shades of green , orange , reddish purple , and black i numerable other com binations are poss ble . B I C . ICA IO 2 4 0 . 3 . T. F 3 M S PU L T N , U S DEP O A GRICULTURE

BLACK A N D GRAY

— — Indi o w aln t h lls . or on w m g u u To get a black gray ool , ordant 6 with alum (p . ) and dye a m edium blue with either of the indigo ‘ i vats (p . R nse well and then dye as directed for Light Brown n i ull 32 u der Pers an Walnut H s (p . ) or D ark Brown un der Black i ul . dr Walnut H ls (p R nse and y . To k or on m i m get a blac dark gray cotton , ordant w th alu (p . 6 ) w the di i i and follo rect ons g ven above . The color on cotton becom es if m i is m - ul darker the ater al taken fro the walnut h l dye bath and put , wi i in i b i i ini n - - thout r ns g , nto a o l ng bath conta ng o e sixth to one half of ul i an ounce of ferrous s phate (copperas) . Bo l 5 or 10 minutes longer $ rinse and dry . GREEN

m — ndi — B r sed e . on m oo g i go To get a green wool , ordant with alum i . 6 m (p ) and dye as d rected for Brass under Broo sedge (p . i l di in i i o R nse wel and p e ther of the ndig vats (p . When the color

- is in in m . A dark enough r se war water and dry . dark yellow green is i i s m i f i m . 6 i O obta ned the wool ordanted w th chro e (p ) nstead f alum . w - m i To get a yello green on cotton , ordant and dye accord ng to i u m in direct ons for Gold nder Broo sedge (p . R se well and dip in

i di . is either Of the n go vats (p When the color dark enough , i m rinse the m ater al in war water and dry .

— — - F st c nd o . To i w on m u i i ig obta n a yello green wool , ordant and i i w dye the wool as directed for Gold under Fus t c (p . R nse ell i i and dip in e ther of the ndigo vats (p . When the color is dark i i m dr . enough , r nse the ater al and y

- on m di To get a blue green cotton , ordant and dye as rected for - i i o i Yellow Tan un der Fust c (p . Then dip in e ther f the ndi go

2 0 un i si is i ri . vats (p . ) t l the de red color Obta ned $ nse and dry

— — oldenr d ﬂow ers nd . TO on m d G o i igo get a dark green wool , or ant and dye the wool as directed for Brass un der Goldenrod Flow ers h i in it er of i di s . (p . R nse well and dip e h the n go vat (p W en - is is i . A the color dark enough , r nse and dry dark yellow green o obtained if the wool is m ordanted with alum (p . 6 ) instead f with r ch om e . H k k hi — in — T l - n w c r ar w t e di o . o o i o y b , g get a dark yel ow green ool , i hi m ordant the w ool with chrom e (p . 6 ) and dye w th ckory bark as di in i of dire cted in dye m ethod 1 (p . Then p the wool e ther i ir is i i th ind go vats (p . and when the des ed color obta ned , r nse ane1 dry . l — on m i m To get a yel ow green cotton , ordant the cotton w th alu ni - m wi hi i in tan n alu (p . 6) and dye th ckory bark as d rected dye m 2 Rin ll di in i of ethod , page 9 . se we , and p the cotton e ther the i di i is in i n go vats (p . When the des red color obta ed , r nse the m i r ater al and d y . P — — w - w e n i in i . rsia b err es d go To get a dark yello green on ool , m ordant and dye the w ool according to directions for Gold under i w di in i Persian Berries (p . R nse ell and then p e ther of the i n i m i in w m ndigo vats (p . When dark e ough , r nse the ater al ar and water dry . — m To get a blue green on cotton , ordant and dye the cotton as

i - i d rected for Yellow Tan under Persian Berries (p . R nse and in i f i 20 i dip the cotton e ther O the ndigo vats (p . ) unt l dark enough $ i dr r nse and y . HO ME DYEING WITH NA TURA L DYES 35

PU RPLE

— - hin - Indi o oc eal . To et on unm ord g c g a red purple wool , dye anted m i m i n i i i i wool a ed u blue e ther of the nd go vats (p . R nse well and then dye with cochineal as directed for Rose - Pink under

Cochineal (p . B E D A N D O RANGE

B roo m sed e — m adden — TO et on g g a light terra cotta wool , m ordant i m the w ool w th alu (p . 6 ) and dye as directed for Brass under

m . d e of m f Broo sedge (p Prepare a y bath adder , using or each pound o f dyed wool 4 ounces of m adder w hich has been soaked over m in . m w night water I erse the ool , thoroughly wet and squeezed out of in 14 0 ° 16 ° water , the dye bath and heat gradually to to 0 F . i m r 30 mi St r carefully and keep at that te peratu e for nutes . Rinse is . m i hr m i and dry If the wool ordanted w th c o e (p . 6) nstead of m - is alu a burnt orange color produced .

’ on m d e as To get a lacquer red wool , ordant and y above , except this tim e boil the wool in a dye bath containing 8 ounces of madder for 1 i i 5 m nutes . Then r nse and dry . A dark henna is obtained if is m i m i . 6 m the wool ordanted w th chro e (p ) nstead Of alu . — m — Fustic adder . on m To get a dull orange wool , ordant and dye i for i the wool as d rected Gold under Fust c (p . Prepare a dye f m in for e f bath o adder , us g ach pound o dyed wool 4 oun ces of m hi i in mm adder w ch has been soaked overn ght water . I erse the i u u out of wool , wh ch has been thoro ghly wet and sq eezed water , and . 4 ° 1 ° i heat gradually to 1 0 to 60 F . St r carefully and keep at that i m . is i te peratur e 30 minutes R nse and dry . If the wool boiled n - i the m adder dye bath a rose brown s produced . To on as i v get a burnt orange wool , dye d rected abo e , except that i m i s of m 6 . the wool should be mordanted w th alu (p . ) n tead chro e T i i - i hen dye w th fust c and top dye w th madder . — ' — on m nr r m . Golde o d ﬂow e s adder To get a terra cotta wool, ordant i the wool with alum (p . 6) and dye as d rected for Brass under Golden i of m s . rod Flower (p R nse well and prepare a dye bath adder , using for each pound of dyed wool 4 ounces of m adder which has been i in m m o hl nd soaked overn ght water . I erse the wool , th roug y wet a ° out p f in 14 0 squeezed water , the dye bath and heat gradually to ° mi i m 30 . to 160 F . St r carefully and keep at that te perature nutes i R nse and dry . - on i i To get a rose brown wool , follow the d rect ons as above except T i m ordant the wool with c hrom e (p . hen dye w th goldenrod

- ﬂowers and top dye with m adder . — — on m Q uercit ron m adder . To get a terra cotta wool , ordant and m 1 or dye the wool as directed for Gold , dye ethod , under Black Q uercitron Oak Rinse well and prepare a dye bath of m in of 4 of m i adder , us g for each pound wool ounces adder wh ch has mm l been soaked overnight in water . I erse the wool , thorough y wet ° ut Of in d e bath o 140 and squeezed o water , the y and heat gradually t ° i 1 i m 30 m . to 60 F . St r carefully and keep at that te perature nutes i R nse and dry . 0 T i i i i c o get a dark coral p nk , follow the d rect ons g ven above ex ept T that the mordanting Should be done Wi th alum (p . hen dye

- wi i to i m . th querc tron , and p dye w th adder ‘ ORGANI$ ATION OF THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT or AGRICULTURE WHEN THIS PUBLICATION WAS LAST PRINTED

S ecre ar o A ricul ure H C . t y f g t ENRY A . WALLA E Under S ecretar $ T . y R E FORD G . UGWELL A ssis an S ecre ar M . L . I t t t y W LSON . ' Direc or o Ex ension W rk o _ C . . t f t W WARBURTON . Direc or o P ersonnel T K B E E . t f W . W . S O C R G R

Direc or o I n ormation _ M S . EI . t f f . SENHOWER Direc or o Finance A . . t f W . JUMP

S olici or _ I I t M ART N G . WH TE A ricul ural A d us m en A dmini s ra ion D C C . I A n s dmi i ra or . g t $ t t t t HESTER AV S , t t B ureau o A ricul ural E conomics A B A . G . C Chie . f g t L K , f B urea A ricul ural E n ineerin u o S . H e M . . C C Chi f g t g g RORY , f B ureau o A im al I ndustr h e n O N . M R C i . f y J H OHLER, f Bur au o lo ical S urve e h e . Bio IR A N . G I C i f g y ABR ELSON , f B an o r r s K I . u eau o Chemis d S il H . . Chie f t y G N GHT , f

B r r ndus r I E . h . u eau o Dai O . R C ie f y t y EED , f B and P lan uaran ina o S O h e . ureau o E n om lo L A . C i f t gy t Q t EE TR NG, f n a ons I h e r C i . O ce o Ex e ime S i T . ﬁ f p t t t JAMES JARD NE , f

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a n T . D Chie . Grain Fu ures A dminis r io J . . t t t W UVEL , f h B a om E conomics L I S C ie . ure u of H e OU SE TANLEY , f

B r I/ C I R . L ibra ian ibrary LAR BEL ARNETT , D F I C . R I h e ustr _ C C i . B ureau of P lant I nd y REDER K HEY, f

H . M D oads T C Chie . Bureau of P ublic R HOMAS A ONALD , f h B C e . rv H . H . i S oil Conservation S e ice ENNETT , f

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hem s in char e. C i t , g

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