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Vol. XXVI No. 1 MUSINGS April 16-30, 2016 The youth reach out to Madras Musings (By The Editor) s it steps into its 26th year, Madras Musings is happy to find Athat the maximum number of greetings and best wishes for its continued existence has come in on social media – the preserve of the young. This makes us most happy for we believe that by mak- ing an impact on the next generation, we have carried forward the concerns over heritage – both built and natural – as well as over our city to the guardians of the future. This by itself is a victory for us. It was only in the last issue that we made it known that we as a publication have completed 25. Ever since then, we have received countless messages on platforms such as Facebook and Twitter The Mylapore Temple and Tank look beautiful in the picture above. But come closer and this is what you will see wishing us well. We have pub- (below) behind the railings protecting the tank. lished some of these messages elsewhere in this issue (See page 3). We thank every one of these people and promise them that Can Mylapore become we will live up to their expecta- tions. At the same time, we also express our gratitude to these young people who have dis- a heritage precinct? pelled the notion that concerns about heritage and the city are exclusive to the elderly. This is (By A Special Correspondent) a definite sign of changing times. Let us take for instance sk any tourist as to what is No other locality in Madras bet- Facebook forums that discuss Athe first destination he or ter symbolises the city’s its ethos our city. The Madras Local His- she has in mind when they visit and heritage. Adding aura is the tory Group is perhaps the best our city and the Mylapore Mylapore Festival, unique in its known. The focus is chiefly on Kapaliswarar Temple will most design and conduct. During this uploading photographs of our likely be the answer. For most festival every January, the local- city’s past and the volume. The Chennai residents, this ranks ity surrounding the temple variety that has been dug up high as a place of worship, as transforms itself. It becomes a from various online and offline evinced by the vast numbers beehive of activity for the sources is simply amazing. This who throng the shrine on a daily thronging crowd, which turns remains one of the busiest basis. On festival days the num- its gaze towards valued memo- groups with uploads happening bers swell to unmanageable pro- ries of the past, having fun all times of the day and night. portions. The shrine is main- alongside. The same is true of Singara Chennai looks at vari- tained well the year round and the temple’s annual festival that ous places in our city that add has, in the last month, under- takes place in March/April. colour, vibrancy and beauty. gone a spectacularly successful The civic amenities around There are other groups that spe- consecration. the temple are no match for the cifically concentrate on waste Several crores are spent on crowds. For disaster manage- reduction, environment and its upkeep and deservedly so. ment during festive times, tem- water bodies. On the blogging Unfortunately, the same cannot porary measures are put in front, there are numerous writ- be said of its environs, to which place, with roads leading to the ers who devote columns to their the authorities and the general temple blocked and a posse of areas of interest within the city public pay the least attention. policemen posted to manage – its arts environment, theatre, The surroundings have de- the crowd. Toilets and medical temples, and general city his- graded terribly over the years. help are woefully inadequate The cultural quotient of the (Continued on page 2) Mylapore area ranks very high. (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS April 16-30, 2016 Youth reaches Down Silver Jubilee Lane nd so, Chief, here we are, mond and Platinum Jubilees happens to be the local Lord Aon our 25th anniversary. and after that centennial, ses- Bountiful, practising his chari- out to MM Congratulations to you. As quicentennial and quasqui- ties with an eye on popularity. several in the city and else- centennial celebrations. MMM For several afternoons he set (Continued from page 1) as enthusiastic about their work where acknowledge, had it not has reached the limit of the up a water and buttermilk dis- tory. Mention must also be as they are in attending a been for you, we would not words he knows for landmark pensing pavilion that also fea- made of people like Ramaswami temple or a beach festival and have become so conscious of anniversaries, Chief, but he is tured a high decibel music sys- Nallaperumal and R Shantaram posting photographs about it on our heritage – or our city. sure that Madras Musings will tem that belted out songs in platforms such as Instagram and Those in administration, from last for many years after these praise of the One Great who add a photograph every what The Man from Madras as well. And so, ladies and Leader. The thirsty hordes day to the World Wide Web Pinterest. Are we to assume Musings understands, also gentlemen, a toast, to our dear flocked to the pavilion and from our city and have been that all of them are against agree to this, only they are Chief and our Madras Musings! drank to their fullest. But then doing it for years. progress? rather petulant about it. Their As these are days when prohi- when the party list of candi- The walks and tours are an- These young persons only attitude to heritage has always bition is being thought of, dates was published MMM other success story. Gone are strengthen our basic philosophy been akin to what Henry II felt MMM raises his glass of butter- noticed that his neighbour was the days when Mylapore or – heritage and progress are not about Thomas Becket if you milk in a toast. Or should he not on it. The pavilion was Beach Road was the only choice antithetic. They complement recall. And MMM must say opt for palm toddy? On that taken down and the services for a heritage walk. Hundreds of each other and while it is nec- they have been doing a great happy note, let us proceed to dispensed with. MMM pre- essary to look ahead, this need job of ridding themselves of all other matters. sumes that the buttermilk of routes have been mapped across heritage buildings. Fortu- human kindness had turned not be done by wiping out the the city and, on any given day, nately, the city is still with no. Electoral round-up sour. chances are that a group of vol- past. Sadly, our political masters But be that as it may, Sour reminds MMM of fer- unteers have set out for some have not yet woken up to this MMM would like to join in the ver since the electoral code mentation and that in turn unknown spot, making a picnic fact. Not one party has even chorus of congratulations. On Eof conduct kicked in, every brings to his mind the stuff outing from it. The bulk of made a mention of heritage this occasion, MMM would one of our political parties is on that cheers. It appears that all these people are young and ad- conservation in its manifesto for also like to remember, Chief, its best behaviour. There are parties in the fray have decided venturous. the upcoming elections. Or of your own good lady, who al- no posters or graffiti disfiguring that imposing Prohibition is Which brings us to this oft- how to make Madras a better ways took a keen interest in walls and no cut-outs and going to be their chief electoral hoardings line the routes the quoted opinion of some people city. Today’s generation de- matters pertaining to Madras promise. It looks like the State mands sensitivity and an all in- Musings. She it was, you will is all set to go dry no matter that heritage is against progress. recollect, who would always SHORT who comes to power and by If that be so, what would these clusiveness and this can best be notice when we made a mis- that MMM does not mean the people have to say about the demonstrated by adapting heri- take in the issue number of our ’N’ water crisis. MMM wonders young people who combine ex- tage to serve current needs as publication and both you and what will happen to the vast citing, cutting edge jobs with a we have maintained all along. MMM would tie themselves SNAPPY populace that has come to passion for searching out the The sooner those in power see into knots in response and per- look upon its daily tipple as a past? These are people who are this, the better for our city. spire freely from every pore. leaders take to office. Of matter of right. Perhaps they And that brings MMM to the course, The Man from Madras will all go on the wagon and quarter million dollar ques- Musings is fairly certain that once on it will direct it towards tion, Chief: Are you quite sure these people must be sorely the erstwhile French colony it is our silver jubilee? No missing these eulogies and pan- that is our neighbour as they chance of any errors in num- egyrics, but then that is the did in the past when Prohibi- What can we do ber? All right, Chief, you can price to pay to have a job that tion was imposed. MMM is relax, it was only a rhetorical requires a renewal of contract sure there will be lot more ma- question and one that MMM every five years. There is oth- terial for this column in the owed your good lady. We have erwise very little else to com- months to come. for Mylapore? over the years, after all, been plain about these modes of But if the fluid that oils very factual except when it ‘gainful’ employment. electoral machinery goes dry, comes to our dates. Remember The police are in full swing what will aid the digestion of (Continued from page 1) should be removed from these the time Chief when we pub- checking all cars in the city. the other electoral offering – streets and accommodated at lished the date of some event MMM too was stopped in a biriyani? even during normal times. Dur- specifically earmarked spaces, in the Dates for Your Diary dark thoroughfare and asked to open the boot of his vehicle. ing the annual Arupathu- making space on the roads section as February 30? MMM Animal-loving poet moovar festival, tonnes of gar- believes that a group of our MMM’s friend, who is of a available for walkers and cy- cheery disposition, asked the bage are produced, and these faithful readers is still out there he Man from Madras clists. Third, all the commercial force if they would care to take Musings is aware that very need to be cleared to make the somewhere lost in a calendar, T establishments, especially on trying to locate the venue. a selfie with MMM and himself few facts are available about roads usable for traffic again. North and South Mada Streets, But then again, it feels as to which the lady officer in our State’s sage who gave us The business establishments, need to stop encroaching on the though it was only yesterday charge smiled graciously and three books in ancient time – ranging from high-end jewellers pavements. Fourth, now that that all of us embarked on this said that would be done any- on duties, piety and love. Even and restaurants to petty shops the Corporation is in the pro- journey, led by you. In all the way if cash was found in the the former Governor of an selling a variety of series for cess of installing mobile toilets thanks that you poured forth, car. MMM duly opened the eastern State who has penned boot to find that this was the adults as well as children, have around the city, the four Mada Chief, in the last issue you for- a wonderful book of transla- day when his good lady (also tions of the poet’s work admits made North Mada Street a Streets need to have at least two got one significant contributor commercial hub. The shops put – namely the postman and his known as She Who Must Be that his personal life, and by in each of them to maintain Obeyed) had placed what ap- that MMM means the poet’s up on the temple tank’s periph- Department of Posts. They too public hygiene. in MMM’s view deserve our peared to be a hundred differ- and not the Governor’s, is a ery obscure its sight at the A closer view of the temple gratitude, though we have ent bags in the boot, including closed book. MMM is happy to ground level. Over the years tank will reveal that it has a looked askance at their meth- her handbag. Now MMM’s report that he (poet not many of these makeshift shops promenade on its inner periph- ods of delivery. But it cannot wallet is never known for con- Governor) loved animals, as have become permanent. Thus, taining anything more than evinced by the accompanying ery, at least along the south, be denied that amidst flood, while the tank and tower make sunshine and heat, they have small change but with his good photograph. On that happy west and north faces. When for good emotional appeal, for a borne aloft our MM and en- lady it was an entirely different note, a Happy Tamil New first planned, this appears to good view of either you need to sured it reached its wide read- matter altogether and so it was Year’s Day to all. Or is that on have been a walkway with or- go up the high rise structures ership. Talking about them al- with a silent prayer that MMM January 14th? That depends namental light posts that still watched the officers search. that have, sadly, been allowed ways makes MMM laugh – for on who is elected on May survive. But the number of bags proved 16th. on the four streets. it was they who ensured we What has since happened is made our free magazine into a too much of a deterrent and Would it not be a good idea having taken one – MMM that these paths are cut off by paid one. And it was rather to convert the space in the pe- befitting, Chief, that they flung look at MMM rimeter of the temple into a high fences and converted into a rather moth eaten Act, one and friend they heritage quarter and call it rubbish tips. Can these not be that pertained to the 1800s, an opted to shut the Temple Square, or Kapali opened for public use? era that our publication is boot and wave Square, if you will? First, the It is high time the adminis- rather fond of, to tell us that the car on. four Mada Streets should be off tration begins thinking of how we could not circulate freely! There are limits to motorised vehicles. For We did change thereafter and many hopefuls it can transform Mylapore into doing the rounds the elderly and the disabled, a model that other localities our faithful readership did not mind forking out some money. for a party ticket. electric cars can be made avail- such as Triplicane, Tiru- And so here’s to you, Chief, So too did a able for mobility around the vottriyur, Tiruvanmiyur and and the beloved publication. neighbour of streets. Second, hawkers on Purasawalkam, all built around May there be Golden, Dia- MMM’s who pavements and petty shops temples, can follow. April 16-30, 2016 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 Why change the name of Madras High Court? he Centre last year had announced that it This theory gains greater acceptance when Wishing MM well – I Madras (the city and the presi- Twanted to change the name of the Madras we peruse the “firman” (a written permission dency) with the same gutsy pas- High Court to Chennai High Court, and it is granted by an appropriate authority) granted by ittle did I realize that Ma sion and forthrightness that learnt that the Government may introduce leg- Damarla Venkatapathy Nayak to Francis Day dras Musings is in its 25th L prevails today. islation in Parliament soon to achieve this ob- where Medraspatam is clearly mentioned as the year. Great news. jective. The reason most widely proffered (as land where the British were allowed to settle. I warmly greet the journal Dr. Anantanarayanan was done when changing the name of the city The grant was mentioned in the book called The and its dedicated readers and Raman from Madras to Chennai in 1996) is that the English Factories in India (1618-1699). Three congratulate the Editors on this Charles Sturt University names have to be de-anglicised. But by chang- original and the copies of the grant are also pre- occasion. Orange, NSW 2800 ing the name to Chennai we may not be doing served in the India Office at London and are Australia that at all. referred to by C S Srinivasachari, Professor at MM has remained commit- Annamalai University in his book History of ted to honesty and frankness on II The Centre, therefore, before placing the bill City of Madras published in 1939. the one hand and to the past in Parliament would do well to refer to certain In another recent discovery, epigraphists S and present (and future?) of eartiest congratulations key issues to a select committee and examine Rajvelu and Y Subbarayalu, while editing a book Madras, a city and an ex-State Hon Madras Musings com- the following aspects. Beginning with the his- on the Vijayanagar inscriptions published by torical reference to the region, there is enough [the ‘Presidency’, I say so be- pleting 25 exciting years. It has ICHR, observed that Medraspatnam was a small always been a refreshing read prima facie records to establish that the area port that existed north of latter day Fort St cause the State is Tamil Nadu where Francis Day and Andrew Cogan landed at present] of chequered, but after weathering the (unavoid- George before the 19th Century. Evidence to was called “Medraspattam”. The renaming was support this assertion lies in an inscription fascinating, history. able) bulk of pedestrian stuff done at the insistence of the native chieftain that is dumped on us by the found in Penneswaramadam on the banks of the While subscribing to mod- Damarla Venkatapathy Nayak, who sold the Pennar to the south of Kaveripattinam. esty, MM has encouraged and daily publications! British a strip of land owned. Nayak is believed May Silver Turn to Gold! Therefore in changing Madras to Chennai supported many enthusiastic to have extracted a promise that the British we do not appear to be paying homage to any young women and men of Ma- town should be named after his father Damal aspect of our cultural legacy. V.Kalidas Chennappa Nayak. Hence the settlement that dras to think about their city [email protected] and, thus, has served the com- grew around Fort St George came to be called N.L. Rajah Chennaipattinam. munity as an avenue for them III (Advocate, Madras High Court) to vocalise their thoughts. he 25th anniversary of In this process, MM has not T Musings! What an @tweets_cs: Congratulations. @bharathnat: Pat-a-pat- a-pat in touch with my former only enabled several to greatly achievement – getting an apa- Wishing many many more on our shoulders.. you are home. Keep up your good improve their communication thetic city to care about itself! years of Madras Musings. the leaders . work in hustling the authori- skills, but also has prevailed as a @R_Ajay_: Heartiest con- @sarojsridhar: Congratulations. ties for a better Chennai liberated voice of the region. Vijaysree Venkatraman gratulations!! Absolutely Look forward to the next 25. (Madras). Boston I could be listing more of love your work. Got to know @nancygandhi: Hard to believe! M.G. Swaminathan: Congrats this, since I am proud that I am so much about Madras I hope there will be many on the landmark achieved! one of the readers of MM from IV here. more. Mallikarjunan C: All the best to Day One, and am continuing to From Twitter @Venkav4: Congratulations team Madras Musings. May enjoy reading it. Madras Musings! Appealing From Facebook the Almighty bless you with I wish the Editors all the best @kbalakumar: Congrats and to every generation, you are long life. stay young and in the future and wish the jour- best wishes to all those part a wonderful publication. Stuart B Campbell: I still keep live. nal many happy returns of the of this warm and wonderful @fabwrite: Congrats!! That's in touch with Madras that is prismprblog: Congrats. Fabu- day. venture. #Chennai one fortnightly I look forward Chennai from afar. lous achievement. I also wish that it will con- @arianrams: Wonderful. Wish- to!! Congrats and here’s to an- tinue to serve the people of ing many more years... @rangamav: Greetings from a other 25 years! dedicated reader of long Shivakumar Raman: Your con- OUR ADDRESSES standing tributions are amazing. Con- gratulations! Wishing you 50 For matters regarding subscriptions, @Eramurukan: Many Happy donations, non-receipt of receipts returns. Madras Musings is more years of Madras A memorable description Musings! etc.: CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, a movement now. You are in Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, for the longest haul Chandra Padmanabhan: G The way the West Indies won the World T20 title left every- Congrats to Muthiah and Royapettah, Chennai 14. one watching the game gasping. The wordsmiths went ga-ga over @ramprackash: Congrats sir. Sriram! In the earlier days I it. But none more so than a writer in The Guardian, London, Learn so much about the Madras Musings now has its own according to S.R. Madhu who sent us the whole report. It’s too city we love from you. also had a column! email ID. Letters to the editor can be Sachin Anand: long to carry here, but the first paragraphs, published below, @DilliChat: Congratulations on All the best. I sent via email to used to wait for will give you a taste of things to come. the milestone to the Madras [email protected]. Those Musings when it was – Editor founders and the team of who wish to intimate change of ad- launched and in fact am pre- #MadrasMusings. dress can also do so provided the serving those copies and “Swinging for the hills, reaching the stars @catchhema: A fornightly tab- subscription number is quoted. For am still continuing. loid that everyone reads at non-receipt of copies, change of Wonderfully devastating, hideously marvellous, beautifully home eagerly. 25 yrs & go- address, and all other circulation grotesque, savagely delightful, the final moments of the From ing strong. Kudos MM team. sriramv.wordpress.com matters: Madras Musings, C/o Twenty20 World Cup were ludicrously, inconceivably, @kayvenkatesh: Happy Birth- awesomely dramatic. The final’s finale was undeniably vicious Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., day, Madras Musings! Dad but also, for all that, gorgeous, like standing in front of Van Arvind Ram Kumar: Thanks to 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 used to work in Rane Ma- Gogh’s Starry Night when it suddenly develops arms and fists Madras Musings aficiona- 006. On editorial matters: The Editor, dras (supporter) & he used and clobbers your helpless self about the head, leaving you dos for their tremendous ef- Madras Musings, No. 5, Bhattad to bring home always. dazed and bewildered, dribbling senselessly on the floor, fort in keeping Madras Tower, 30, Westcott Road, @BrianStoddart: wracked simultaneously by pain and – weirdly, unfathomably – Fantastic stuff Musings alive all these Royapettah, Chennai 600 014. exhilaration. for all fans of Madras, in- years…. Happy silver jubi- Beyond boggling at the cool-headed brutality of Carlos cluding me lee. No personal visits or telephone calls, Brathwaite’s batting and its possible effect on the psyche of @Ammu_Maanu: Congrats, Sir, kaushik55: Yes, it is truly a joy- please. Letters received will be sent Ben Stokes, this more than anything was an opportunity to keep it up for many more ous anniversary that warms from these addresses every couple of genuflect before the glory of sport. It would have been a memo- years.... Best wishes for that the heart of the Chennai- days to the persons concerned and rable, dramatic match even if, as had seemed likely when @brahmmajoshi: My favourite vaasi. Let us say Jai Hind to you will get an answer from them to Stokes and Eoin Morgan stood in deep discussion near the mag. My fav writer. that! your queries reasonably quickly. bowler’s mark following Chris Jordan’s excellent penultimate Congrats! Keep the Madras Fred Fisher (Perth, Western Strange as it may seem, if you adopt over, West Indies had batted out the final deliveries and fallen flag high. Australia): Congratulations the ësnail mailí approach, we will be just short of their moderate target. But this match was not @Glasgowlee: Congratulations! on your Silver Anniversary! able to help you faster and disappoint destined just to be admired. There was another twist to come, Wishing MM many more Well done! I have enjoyed you less. the twist of a serrated knife.” years of Madras news and reading (most of) your views. musings that have kept me ñ THE EDITOR 4 MADRAS MUSINGS April 16-30, 2016 April 16-30, 2016 MADRAS MUSINGS 5

A LOOK AT THREE MADRAS ARTISTS Nandagopal in Delhi...

rt Alive Gallery New Delhi, pect that does not make you in Ahas been presenting “The the least curious to see what lies This panoramic view shows on the right the ‘ashram’ and today a small temple with its tops now painted yellow astride a rocky ridge on a small hillock with the dominating presence of Nandi Hills in the centre, Metaphysical Edge of Sculpture” at the back. I remember once the and the Nandi valley with the villages mentioned towards the left of the frame. – a solo exhibition of S. critic Josef James referred to my Nandagopal’s sculptures. sculpture as a sort of skin re- “Here lies the revolutionary who Sunaina Anand, Director of the moved from a three dimensional fought for Indian Independence, Gallery, writes “Nandagopal’s sculpture and laid flat on one Shri Omkar Swamiji, Death: 4th contribution to the art world is plane. That may be exactly what The Swamiji March 1978, Sultanpete.” unparalleled. At this exhibition, my sculpture is all about. The fig- The ashram itself is a pretty the artist, in a departure from his ure, however, can never cease to picture, a single storey building previous array of works in brass S. Nandagopal. attract me and frankly I can with a thatched verandah run- and silver-plated sculptures, has Nandagopal himself states, never think otherwise. It is of the ning almost all the way around brought in colour in a very dis- “My sculpture is not fully three- strange that, when anyone is it, well maintained, although un- tinctive manner. His innovative dimensional. But nor is it a relief confronted with an abstract fortunately shut and locked use of colour lends itself to forms to be placed against a wall. The sculpture, he hasn’t much to say when I visited. Between the and figures that emerge in the gamut of Indian sculpture is re- by way of criticism. But when Nandi Hills tomb and the ashram building is process of a creative synthesis of ally bas-relief. The great faced with a figurative one, he a rather deep and rocky crevice the past and the present. ‘Arjuna’s Penance’, the world’s immediately comments on the n a train journey back to on one side, and the lower sub- ending in a pond. The entire largest bas-relief, never for a mo- The headstone. Nandagopal is one of the few nose being too long or the eyes OBangalore from Thanjavur sidiary hills on the other (in par- complex, set some distance up ment makes you wish it were a tor and District Magistrate of guilty of the conspiracy to mur- sculptors continuing the tradi- being wonky, and so on. This is recently, one of my fellow pas- ticular, Chandragiri), the ashram the hillside, and accessible by a sculpture in the round. The ne- sengers, overhearing that I live in overlooked the Nandi Valley and Tinnevelly, Robert William der, while Justice C. Sankaran tion of frontality and linearity in because he is faced with himself. flight of granite steps, is a pretty sculpture, one of the defining cessity never arises. Nor is the He recognises all the imperfec- d’Escourt Ashe, I.C.S., was shot Nair, concluding that murder the Nandi Hills area north of the villages of Sultanpet and and welcoming sight, what with great Nataraja idol a three-di- dead at point blank range when had not been legally proved, held characteristics of the Madras tions. I do believe that man will Bangalore and conduct curated Nandi. It was located on the several large trees around. mensional sculpture in that heritage walks in the foothills, western fringes of the former. the train in which he and his that only the charges of waging Movement in contemporary In- always be man’s greatest sub- Peering through the locked dian Art. sense. It has a certain frontal as- ject.” asked me if I knew about the cu- door, I managed to take a photo- family were travelling had war against the King had been rious case of Omkar Swamy and graph of the Swamiji himself, stopped at Maniyachi train established against the chief con- his ‘ashram’ in the area. I wasn’t seen in later years. The entire junction. spirator, Neelakanta Brahma- very enthusiastic about entering compound housing these struc- The assassin, Vanchinathan chari. He was sentenced to seven into another tale of a ‘godman’, tures is well cared for. I learnt Aiyar from Shencottah, then in years rigorous imprisonment. ... and Narasimhalu & Udhayakumar in Madras most likely a rather forgettable that the generosity, support and the princely state of Travancore, The other accused were sen- jumped off train, ran into a lava- tenced to various terms of lesser one, and so replied that while I active assistance of some of the . Narasimhalu and R. two feet. He is mobile by pushing beaten and filtered is he able to tory on the platform and shot imprisonment. knew of the existence of the man locals in the village of Sultanpet Udhayakumar are very spe- himself on a wheeled wooden drink it. Yet he creates magic himself through the mouth using In prison, Neelakanta Brah- K and his ‘ashram’, I had no know- made this possible. cial artists who recently held a board. He was a topper in Class with his brush. ledge of, nor particular interest the same revolver he had used to machari drew close to the judge * * * very special exhibition. X and XII. He has accomplished The 10-day long charity art assassinate Collector Ashe. This who had first tried him, and who in, him. My fellow passenger, A revolutionary swamiji, who K Narasimhalu (40 years) is a basic computer application in show and sale was organised by was the first overtly violent act had decided to transfer the case however, ploughed on and I, po- ostensibly fought for Indian In- man who was affected by Cere- HTML, operating the keys/ the HeART BEAT Foundation, of resistance against the British for trial to the Madras High litely, listened. What followed, dependence, living as an ascetic bral Palsy in childhood. He can- mouse using his feet/toes! De- a family trust of V S Ramana, a Court, Judge Alfred Tampoe. however, kept me enthralled and for close to six decades in the not walk and talk properly. Un- spite all disorders he has taken professional in Advertising, PR, Neelakantan, born in Erukkoor led me to further research. This The best shot of the beautiful and quiet foothills of G able to use his hands, he manages life as a challenge and uses his Communications and CSR, now Swamijis picture considering the by in Tanjore District, had some is what I found. Nandi Hills, far from any of the to do everything deftly with his legs to do all his work, right from with L&T. angle through a shuttered door Siddharth Raja education. He was drawn to In 1919, an ascetic calling centres of protest and action, HeART BEAT Foundation and the poor lighting. revolutionaries like Aurobindo himself ‘Sri Sadguru Omkar’, or nothing could be more intrigu- has so far held three such shows Ghosh and moved to Pondi- ‘Omkar Swamy’ to the locals, set In front of this small and ing. Nor could these titbits of in- in Chennai and Pondicherry and in southern India in the 20th cherry where he published a K. Narasimhalu and R. Udhayakumar. himself up in a small ashram rather nondescript structure, un- formation gleaned from the been able to raise Rs. 6.50 lakhs which he built in the serene and Century. Tamil magazine, Suryodaya, Rare sightings at Guindy Park der a makeshift metal sheeting physical structures, be more en- ondary schooling and was – 100 per cent of the earnings verdant foothills of Nandi Hills, Vanchinathan Aiyar had a which was subsequently banned knitting to eating, drinking, op- roof and some vegetation, held ticing for me to ferret the story Two rare sightings at Guindy National Park in March, by Vikas awarded the best student prize through art sale go only to ben- 60 or so kilometres north of Ban- letter on his body that hinted at by the British. erating the computer, hand up by four granite pillars, is a out. (Editor’s Note: This story Madhav, were the Taiga Flycatcher (top) and Lesser Whitethroat for receiving high marks in Board efit the needs of the specially- galore, just off the Bellary- a political conspiracy behind the While serving his sentence, (bottom). embroidery and the cell phone as simple grave coloured red, hav- has already been told in Madras exams. His parents and teachers abled artists. Hyderabad national highway. ing just a headstone and no other murder. Not long afterwards, 14 Brahmachari had time to exam- well. Musings, so is repeated here only Raptor watch discovered his inclination to- “My appeal to art lovers, ar- Nestling in a scraggy outcrop be- men were charged with various ine his life, and concluded that Three of his 40-foot embroi- ornaments. The headstone states in abbreviated form.) wards painting/art when he was chitects, interior designers and tween the towering Nandi Hills offences ranging from murder to violence was not the way to sal- A raptor watch hotspot is dered works each took him 18 (translated from the Kannada): On July 17, 1911, the Collec- in his second grade. He discon- corporates in Chennai is that, waging war against the King Em- vation. He also, jointly with Thenneri, 55kms from the city, painstaking months. tinued his studies after the 10th while there will be a large space peror of India, and criminal con- Judge Tampoe, wrote from off the Bangalore Highway. Of Udhayakumar (41) has had a due to his ailment and, since on your walls for the works of spiracy. This group of alleged prison a detailed history of the the twenty commonly seen rap- life that is an inspirational jour- tor species in and around then, painting has been his only master artists, at homes and in conspirators was a motley crew of underground political movement ney of Art .... and a fight against Chennai, 16 have been spotted passion. At the age of seven, he offices, please do consider a good farmers, cooks, merchants, a in South India. In recognition of Spinal Muscular Atrophy here in the last 2-3 years. They participated in an exhibition portion of this kind to greengrocer, a lawyer’s clerk, a this contribution, a remission of (SMA). His paintings are in- are: Common Kestrel (Winter- organised by the Victoria Tech- deservingly support such spe- schoolmaster and even a pot- his sentence was granted. After spired by his imagination and Taiga Flycatcher. ing), Red-necked Falcon nical Institute in 1982. Since cially-abled artists. These would vendor! The chief conspirator his release from jail in 1919, (Breeding resident), Peregrine dreams. Udhayakumar devel- then, he has conducted several embellish the decor, enhance was a Brahmin youth of 21, a Neelakanta Aiyar become a Falcon (F.P. calidus-Winter- oped his artistic ideas and con- solo exhibitions. His staple diet their esteem – and this is CSR as journalist, a fiery patriot and per- changed man, a reformed indi- ing), Shaheen Falcon (F.p. cept by watching art/culture on for years has been steamed rice well,” says Ramana. – (Courtesy: son of considerable persuasive vidual, more inclined to non-vio- peregrinator – Summer visitor), television. He has challenged and vegetables; only when HeART BEAT Foundation.) skills and charm, called Neela- lence to achieve political aims. Black-winged Kite (Breeding life, not succumbing to the ail- resident), Black Kite (Resi- kanta, alias Brahmachari. He called himself Omkarnath ment which made his whole body dent), Osprey (Wintering), Ori- static. Since the victim was a senior Swami and sought solace in the ental Honey Buzzard (Resi- MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB He was born a normal child. ICS officer, the trial was posted world of religion and philosophy. dent), Short-toed Snake Eagle for the High Court of Madras by Judge Tampoe visited him of- (Resident), Eurasian Marsh At 10 months he was diagnosed To reach out to as many readers as possible who share our keen inter- the District and Sessions judge, ten in the “ashram on the till- Lesser Whitethroat. Harrier (Wintering), Pallid with Spinal Muscular Atrophy est in Madras that is Chennai, and in response to requests from many Alfred Tampoe ICS, a Ceylon top” and they held long philo- Harrier (Wintering), Montagu’s Harrier (Wintering), Shikra (Breed- (SMA), an ailment that affects well-wishers – especially from outside Chennai and abroad who Tamil. After a long-drawn out sophical discussions. Judge ing resident), White-eyed Buzzard (Breeding resident) Indian Spotted the neurons of the spinal cord receive their postal copies very late – for an online edition. Madras court battle of 93 days, Chief Jus- Tampoe and he become friends, Eagle (Breeding resident), and Bonelli’s Eagle (Summer visitor). Cour- and brain stem. It slowly arrested Musings is now on the web at www. madrasmusings.com tesy: Madras Naturalists’ Society Bulletin). his whole bodily movement. tice Sir Arnold White and Judge no one quite sure who was the THE EDITOR The ashram that’s a temple today and the headstone on the tomb before it. Ayling found the conspirators guru, who was the sishya. However he completed his sec- 6 MADRAS MUSINGS April 16-30, 2016 The Ryans & Rajaji (Current Affairs questions are from the period March 16th to 31st. ajaji was born in Thorapalli given a special seat in the sanc- Questions 11 to 20 pertain to RAgraharam near Hosur in tuary. The reception was in the Krishnagiri District in his fam- Pioneers of adjoining Bertram Hall. While Chennai and Tamil Nadu.) 1. Asia’s largest and first of its kind ily house. It was from here that Father was waiting for Rajaji in optical telescope ARIES was un- he launched the prohibition of the porch, the Chief Secretary, veiled at Devasthal in Uttarakhand alcohol movement throughout Prohibition Ramunni Menon, and the Chief recently. The A in the acronym the Salem District in 1938 dur- Justice arrived. As Father led ARIES stands for which scientist- mathematician? ing British rule. On his request, them into the reception hall, he 2. Htin Kyaw is the first elected ci- the Government created a new told me, “Son, watch out, Rajaji vilian (non-military) President of post and posted J.C. Ryan, may arrive any time.” When he which of India’s neighbours that Deputy Registrar of Co-opera- arrived I opened the door of the was had 53 years of military rule? tive Societies at the time, as car and introduced myself and 3. Which Russian Grand Master Special Development Officer to turned and there was Father has earned the right to challenge implement Rajaji’s prohibition standing behind me. Rajaji was Magnus Carlsen for the world title policy and programmes to reha- taken to the main table where after winning the FIDE World Chess Candidates tournament in bilitate toddy tappers and ex- the bridal couple, some secre- Moscow recently? addicts. This brought Ryan taries to Government, both 4. Which number has been ap- close to Rajaji, who, at the time, from the ICS and IAS, and proved by the Telecom Commis- was only an advocate though a judges were seated. sion as the single emergency num- prominent Congress politician. Rajaji spoke for ten minutes ber for India, similar to 911 (USA) Ryan’s work was to wean al- on his association with the fam- and 999 (UK)? coholics and habitual drinkers ily of Ryans and blessed the 5. Who are the latest winners of the from their unsocial, uneco- married couple. The bride- National Awards for Best Actor and Actress? nomic and unhealthy habit and groom, my brother, was at that 6. Name India’s first indigenous rehabilitate them in gainful em- time working as a manager in J.C. Ryan with Rajaji. rotavirus vaccine, to combat infant ployment by promoting coop- the Buckingham and Carnatic erative milk supply societies and mills. He thanked Rajaji for his mortality due to diarrhoea, Madras as Chief Minister after opened in several big cities of launched by the Union Ministry of societies for groundnut and toast and blessings. having been Governor-General India and in many foreign coun- Health and Family Welfare re- tapioca growers, jaggery mak- Prohibition was lifted by of Madras, I was a college stu- tries – London, New York, cently. ers, handloom weavers and so Chief Minister Karunanidhi on dent. Father remained his right- Singapore and elsewhere. 7. Which Chief Minister is the sole on. He had to organise social August 30, 1971, even though Indian in the list of the world’s 50 hand man and Rajaji nick- When Father met Rajaji to gatherings and entertainment Rajaji met him in person at his greatest leaders ranked by Fortune named him ‘Pandit’ and often give him the invitation for the programmes, including sports residence and pleaded with him magazine? referred to him, even at public wedding of my brother, Leo, not to lift Prohibition. MGR al- 8. Name the Dutch football legend, events, musical concerts, magic meetings, as ‘Pandit’. Rajaji thanked him, read the a pioneering exponent of ‘Total lowed the sale of liquor when he shows and dance programmes. While in Salem, Father was card and said, “I will say a few Football’, who lost his battle with He was given a big staff and art- took over as Chief Minister of given the ‘Rao Sahib’ title and, words”, which Father did not cancer recently. ists to carry out these Tamil Nadu. Now, in 2015/16 later, when he became the chief expect. He thanked him and 9. Which reserve in Tamil Nadu- programmes which included politicians are again talking of the Prohibition movement in made the necessary arrange- Kerala has become the 10th Indian about bringing back Prohibi- biosphere Reserve to be included in ments. tion, which has become tool in UNESCO’s World Network of bio- The wedding was in the their hands to win the votes of sphere Reserves? Loyola College chapel and it women who are the main vic- 10. Name the British mathemati- G by F.A. Ryan was the very first wedding held cian famous for solving Fermat’s tims of alcohol. Last Theorem, who is the winner of there. Governor Sri Prakasa was the prestigious 2016 Abel Prize. * * * talks on the evils of alcohol by Madras State, he was given the 11. Who is this resident of Chennai film stars, reformed addicts, so- ‘Rao Bahadur’ title. Shortly af- who has been awarded the Padma cial workers and prominent ter Independence, Father was Bhushan, who has been recognised men and women. promoted over six of his seniors, CHENNAI by the Guinness Book of World In connection with his work, all Joint Registrars of Coopera- Records for singing the most num- Ryan had to meet Rajaji several tive Societies, and selected for ber of songs in Indian languages? HERITAGE 12. Which film has taken the times in his village near Hosur, the Indian Administrative Ser- honours for Best Feature Film in travelling from Salem in his sec- vices about four months before Tamil, Best Supporting Actor and ond-hand Ford with a canvas the IAS examinations were in- No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Best Editing in the recently-an- top, driven by his faithful driver, troduced. Thus, he became the nounced National Film Awards? Jaganathan. There were occa- very first IAS officer of India Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 13. Of the three main docks in sions when he took his family and the only IAS officer with Chennai Port, two are named after with him to give them an out- two British titles. I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List persons who have been conferred No...... ) / I have just seen with Bharat Ratna. Name both. ing, dropped them at the big Ryan and Rajaji became so Madras Musings 14. What happened to the Madras travellers’ bungalow at Hosur, close that Rajaji used to phone and would like to receive it hereafter. Sailing Club, founded by Sir Francis and then went on to meet him now and again between Spring, in June 1933? Rajaji. 9.00 p.m. and 10.00 p.m. My G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for 15. Dhananjayan’s A Creator with I was seven years old then, brother, sister or I used to an- Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI Midas Touch is a documentary on when on one occasion I was swer his calls and connect him HERITAGE, MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings which veteran screenwriter and asked to stay in the car and Fa- to Father. for the year 2015-16. producer? ther went in. Rajaji saw me be- One day, butler Arokiam 16. Which Sahitya Akademi award side the car playing marbles was talking on the phone and G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, en- winning Tamil writer has said that vironment and a better city that Madras Musings his recently-released third novel, with the driver and he called me laughing aloud when I pulled Asthinapuram would be his last? in and gave me biscuits and a the phone from his hand and espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an additional 17. Which century-old luxury ho- banana. That was the first time found that Rajaji was talking. I Rs...... (Rupees ...... ) tel in Chennai has rooms named I met Rajaji, not realising at that apologised to Rajaji and rushed Please keep/put me on your mailing list. Wallajah, Arcot and Binny? young age what a great man I to get Father. 18. What first, in terms of gover- was meeting. Thereafter, I had Mother too used to meet Name : ...... nance of Madras, did Sir the chance to meet him on two Rajaji during functions or meet- Thiruvalayangudi Vijayaraghava- other occasions. ings in Salem and in Madras Address: ...... charya achieve 100 years ago? My father and mother used thereafter. One of the occasions 19. Al. M. Muthukaruppan ...... to talk very highly of Rajaji, who was the opening ceremony of Chettiar of Devakottai was in 1963 ...... the first-ever winner of which cov- did not interest me. I took him Handloom Houses and the All eted annual trophy? for a villager who spoke fluent India Handloom Export Mar- 20. Muhammed Abdul Ali is the English. I vaguely remember his keting Society, which was All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be eighth and present one. What is his family home. founded by Father. Soon, there- sent by Speed Post only. title? When Rajaji returned to after, Handloom Houses were (Answers on page 8) April 16-30, 2016 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 Rameswaram’s links with Sri Lanka amban Island, Rameswaram Jaffna (1380-1410) and his Pand Dhanushkodi (MM, dynasty till 1624, organised November 2015) have been black granite stones to make close to my heart ever since I pillars and other ornamentation used to travel between Egmore on site near Trincomalee and railway station and Colombo then transported them by ship several times annually between to Rameswaram temple. How 1939 and 1945, when I was 6 to many ships would have had to 11 years old. We used to marvel be commissioned and how at the scale model of the many skilled artisans would steamer S.S. Elgin or S.S. have had to be employed and Hardinge, kept in a glass case at how many people would have Egmore. We would embark on been needed to create and load the Boat Mail in the evening and unload all this work, in- and reach Pamban Bridge by cluding 1212 pillars, is mind boggling. Pancha Iswaram locations in Sri Lanka. the next afternoon. It was quite Koneswaram Temple, Ravana an experience going across the The Jaffna kingdoms (1215- worshipping Shiva, with the sea in the 1624) contributed to Rameswa- largely destroyed by the Portu- has undergone metamorphosis bridge, with heavy winds blow- background. Trincomalee, Sri Lanka. guese in 1575 and rebuilt at the into Trincomalee. The temple ing through the train from the ram for 400 years and were known as Setukavalar, meaning original site in 1903. The site is is located on a steep cliff of sea on either side of it! After tween Mannar and Rameswa- considered an Buried City”. black granite rock, with the sea stopping at Pamban, it used to custodians of the temple. Setu ram. Parakrama Bahu, the all was used in their coins as well Nearby is Tirukut Ishwaram, one some 350 feet below. go to Dhanushkodi station. powerful king of Sri Lanka, was of the most famous of all Saivite One pillar from the great pa- Then it would reverse to Dha- as their inscriptions. The ances- also considered a sage. He tors of the King Aryachakra- shrines of the pre-Christian era. goda still stands on top of nushkodi Pier, so that the heavy named his royal palace ‘Palace Excavations have uncovered Swami Rock, which is also railway engine did not have to varthi dynasty that ruled Jaffna of God Indira’. Further, being a belonged to a Brahmin priest ancient Saivite images and Ro- called ‘Lover’s Leap’ or go onto the pier. Shiva Baktha, a 11th Century man coins which bear evidence ‘Ravana’s Cleft’. Seeing the photo in MM, class of the Pasupathi sect of temple known as Vanam Madevi Rameswaram temple. of the age and repute of the port The significance of this February 16, 2014, I recollected temple is that it is dedicated to how we would step down from Ravanan. The temple has his the coach onto the pier and 10-headed image and there is straight onto the steamer, since also a standing statue of Rava- there were two tracks to suit the nan facing the land, worship- side of the pier the ship was ping Shiva. There is also here a berthed at. It was indeed an huge statue of Shiva in a sitting engineering marvel – inaugu- posture, as Ravanan was a wor- rated on February 24, 1914. shiper and a great devotee of In later years, soon after Shiva. World War II, Tata Airlines The Tanavaram temple with its Dakota once flew me complex is in Matara, near from Colombo via Trichinopoly Galle, and was designed in to Madras, due to bad weather Kerala and built in Pallava style. near Jaffna. From my window The central shrine is dedicated seat, I could see Adam’s Bridge to Vishnu. Other shrines in- from the air. That impression is clude ones for Ganesha, Muru- still in my mind’s eye. All this gan, Kannagi and Shiva. This journeying had long kept shrine is venerated as the south- Rameswaram in memory. ernmost of the five Ishwaram-s. * * * The principal deity was known While I was working in plan- as Chandra Moul Eswaram, that tations near Vandiperiar in the is “Lord Shiva wearing the 1970s, I visited Rameswaram moon”, and was popularly The famed thousand pillared corridor of Rameswaram Temple. with my family and friends. We called Tondeeswaram. left one morning from Kerala Iswaram, named after Rajaraja In 1795, Rameswaram came of Mantai, now called Mantota, Munneswaram temple has and travelled to Rameswaram. I, the Chola conqueror, who under English East India Com- near modern Mannar, once one been in existence from 1000 There was no road link those established his capital at pany governance. of the great emporiums of the CE. This temple complex dedi- days and we had to park our Polonnaruwa, was preserved * * * East. In fact, the wealth that cated to Shiva is a collection of cars on the mainland at here during Parakrama Bahu’s Sri Lanka is home to five flowed through the port is said five temples, including a Bud- Mandapam, take a train to reign. Other Hindu temples abodes of Lord Shiva which are to have financed the glorious dhist temple. All these are lo- Pamban railway station and were also cared for. One of his known as Pancha Ishwaram. All architecture of ancient Anu- cated in Puttalam District, in then hire two jutkas to go to wives had the name Subhadra. of them are located along or radhapura, first capital of Sri Munneswaram village, on the Rameswaram temple. The wa- The philosophy of the king near the coastline. They are Lanka. west coast. It is said that Lord ters of Palk Bay have no waves was “let not even one drop of Naguleswaram, Katheeswaram, Koneswaram temple, Trin- Rama worshiped Shiva here, af- except gentle ripples. All of us water reach the sea without Konneswaram, Tondeswaram comalee, on the east coast of Sri ter his victorious war against could wade through the shallow serving man”, a view similar to and Muneswaram and are not Lanka, was once a temple of Ravanan, King of Sri Lanka. waters for over 100 to 200 that of Chola King Karikalan, considered among the 275 1000 pillars. The temple was The place is also a centre for the metres, take several dips, come who built the anicut (what is temples that are revered as the developed during 205 BCE. Kali cult. to the shore, change our clothes now called The Great Anicut) greatest Shiva shrines of India This was regarded as the great- * * * and get to the temple, which across the River Kaveri in the and Sri Lanka. est building of its time. The There has been recent re- adjoins the shore. 2nd Century CE and which was Naguleswaram temple is original temple was destroyed vival of a plan to link Dhanush- Rameswaram temple’s sanc- remodelled by the British in near Kankesanthurai in Jaffna, by the Portuguese in 1622– kodi and Sri Lanka by road at a tum sanctorum was built by 1804. It used to irrigate nearly close to the Indian Ocean. 1624. The temple was restored cost $5.19 billion. If the road Parakrama Bahu I, the ruler of 70,000 acres, but now irrigates Ketheeshwaran temple is in in 1963. The temple is on the materialises, it will be a boon to Sri Lanka from 1153-1188 AD. over a million acres. This is con- Mannar District, in northwest same longitude as Mount Kai- pilgrims. There are many Hindu He obviously travelled with his sidered one of the oldest water Sri Lanka. Its antiquity dates lash in Tibet. Hence, it is also pilgrim centres in Sri Lanka soldiers, craftsmen, technicians, regulators still in use in the from 300 BCE to 1300 CE. It called Dakshina Kailash. It loca- that Indians from all parts of the worshippers and pilgrims on the world. was maintained by Pallava and tion is known as Tiru-kona- country would like to visit. land route, Adam’s Bridge be- Similarly, Jayaweera, King of later Chola dynasties, but was malai (hill of three sides), which K.V.S. Krishna 8 MADRAS MUSINGS April 16-30, 2016 The lakes we once had Till April 10: Distant Views-Vibrant Hues by Madhukar Maithani. Landscapes in vivid jewel-like colours in semi abstract forms on large dramatic canvases – (at Apparao Galleries). Till April 25: Colour-Space-Action, an exhibition of paintings by John Tun Sein – (at Apparao Galleries, The Leela Palace). Till April 25: Chennaivasi, an ex- hibition of paintings by S. Kumar. The artists has captured the essence of the look of the temple-goers in and around the temple – (at Apparao Infinity, Chennai) For details, please call: 99410 12388, 9686112078 Till April 28: The World Accord- ing to Bhavna by Bhavna Sonawane. For fantasy land- scapes are filled with a magical positive energy (at Apparao Galleries). Till April 30: Stories of Architec- ture, an exhibition of paintings inspired by architecture featur- ing Dhanush Kodi, Ritendra Roy, Anjani Reddy, Chelapathy Rao, and Lalit Sharma. “The Structure” is the primary focus in this collection of works from se- lected artists (at Sandy’s, Ceno- taph Road).

Answers to Quiz Catching up with our series on the Lakes of Madras, reader VIKRAM 1. Aryabhatta; 2. Myanmar; 3. RAGHAVAN from Washington DC, Sergey Karjakin; 4. 112; 5. USA sent us this 1814/16 map Amitabh Bachchan (Piku) and which will give readers an idea of Kangana Ranaut (Tanu Weds how much space was occupied by the Manu Returns); 6. Rotavac; 7. Nungambakkam and Long Tank as Arvind Kejriwal; 8. Johan Cruyff; 9. well as Spur Tank which is now in the Agasthyamala Biosphere Reserve; news for welcome restoration. The 10. Andrew Wiles. mapís title reads: ìThe Environs of * * * Madras, surveyed in 1814, Latitude of the Observatory 13:4.10 N Longitude 11. P. Susheela; 12. Visaranai; 80:19.10 E from Greenwich, London. 13. Jawahar (after Pandit Nehru) Published by W. Faden, Geographer to and Ambedkar; 14. It became the His Majesty and His Royal Highness Royal Madras Yacht Club; 15. The Prince Regent, Charing Cross, Panchu Arunachalam; 16. R.N. Joe December 1, 1816î. D’Cruz; 17. Connemara; 18. First EDITOR’S NOTE: Colour shading of Indian full-time President of the lakes added by MM. city’s Corporation; 19. The Indian Trust Invitation Cup; 20. Prince of Arcot.

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