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D LESS PEN S ™ E SEE MOR Contents

A Note from Pauline...... xi 1 : An Introduction ...... 2 Sights You’ve Gotta See, Things You’ve Gotta Do ...... 3 The ’s Best Museums ...... 4 Uncommon Lodgings ...... 4 Dining for All Tastes ...... 5 The Finest “Other” Experiences ...... 5 2 Lay of the Land ...... 7 Getting Around within the City ...... 10 The Neighborhoods of Paris ...... 14 3 Accommodations, Both Standard & Not...... 22 Staying in a Private Apartment ...... 22 Hotels ...... 32 –Châtelet (1st Arrondissement) ...... 35 Opéra–Bourse (2nd Arrondissement)...... 40 (3rd & 4th Arrondissements) ...... 41 Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement) ...... 44 Saint Germain (6th Arrondissement) ...... 51 Invalides–EiffelCOPYRIGHTED Tower (7th Arrondissement) MATERIAL ...... 53 Champs Elysées & Park (8th & 17th Arrondissements) ...... 57 Grands Boulevards to Canal Saint-Martin (9th & 10th Arrondissements) ...... 60 Bastille & Faubourg St-Antoine (11th & 12th Arrondissements) ...... 62

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iv Contents (14th Arrondissement) ...... 64 Trocadéro & Passy (16th Arrondissement) ...... 65 (18th Arrondissement) ...... 66 Hostels ...... 69 Heureux Campers...... 70 4 Dining Choices ...... 71 Déjeuner sur L’Herbe ...... 72 Browsing the Bakeries ...... 73 Choosing the Right Restaurant ...... 74 The Quest for Good Meals ...... 75 Louvre–Chatelet (1st Arrondissement) ...... 75 Opera–Bourse (1st & 2nd Arrondissements)...... 80 The Marais (3rd & 4th Arrondissement)...... 83 Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement) ...... 88 Saint Germain (6th arrondissement)...... 94 Invalides– (7th Arrondissement) ...... 97 Champs Elysees–Parc Monceau (8th & 17th Arrondissements)...... 102 Grands Boulevards to Canal Saint Martin (9th & 10th Arrondissements)...... 107 Bastille & Faubourg Saint Antoine (11th & 12th Arrondissements)...... 110 Montparnasse (14th arrondissement) ...... 115 Trocadero & Passy (16th Arrondissement) ...... 116 Montmartre (18th Arrondissement)...... 118 Cafe Culture ...... 121 5 Remarkable Sights & Attractions...... 124 Making the Most of Your Time ...... 125 Paris’ 10 Iconic Sights ...... 128 Twelve Runners-Up to the Iconic Sights ...... 145 Museums for Visitors with Specialized Interests ...... 155 Especially for Children ...... 177 Architectural Masterpieces & Monuments...... 177 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page v

Contents v Churches & Other Houses of Worship ...... 184 Touring the City of Light ...... 190 6 The “Other” Paris ...... 199 How Parisians Learn...... 200 How Parisians Work ...... 205 How They Play ...... 208 How They Relax...... 212 7 Paris Outdoors ...... 213 Paris’ Great Parks & Gardens ...... 213 Sports & Recreation Opportunities ...... 224 Spectator Sports ...... 226 8 Walkabouts...... 229 9 Le Shopping ...... 252 Shopping Neighborhoods & Streets...... 253 Department Stores ...... 257 Second-hand & Other Discounted Clothing Treasures. . . . 258 Antiques & Brocantes ...... 261 Flea Markets ...... 261 Individual Stores You’ll Want to Visit ...... 261 10 Nightlife in the City of Light ...... 276 Classical Music ...... 276 Opera & Dance ...... 278 Theater ...... 279 Movies ...... 283 Can You Do the Can Can? ...... 284 Live Music Clubs ...... 285 Let’s Go Dancing ...... 289 Clubbing ...... 291 Bars & Lounges ...... 293 Gay Paree ...... 298 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page vi

vi Contents 11 Get Out of ...... 300 Versailles ...... 300 Chartres ...... 308 Vaux le Vicomte ...... 311 Fontainebleau ...... 315 Giverny ...... 318 ...... 320 12 The Essentials of Planning...... 322 When to Visit ...... 322 Finding a Good Airfare to Paris ...... 327 Entry Requirements ...... 329 Customs: What You Can Bring In & What You Can Take Home ...... 330 Traveling from Paris to Other Parts of ...... 331 Traveling from Paris to Other Parts of ...... 332 Travel Insurance—Do You Need It? ...... 333 How Do I Get to the Airport? ...... 334 What to Pack ...... 336 Money Matters ...... 337 Safety & Health...... 339 Special Types of Travelers ...... 342 Staying Wired While You’re Away ...... 345 Recommended Books & Films about the City ...... 346 13 A Closer Look ...... 352 Roman Rule (1st century B.C.–2nd century A.D.) ...... 352 Barbarian Invasions (3rd–5th centuries) ...... 353 Merovingian & Carolingian Dynasties (6th–10th centuries) ...... 353 The Founding of the Capetian Dynasty (11th century). . . 354 Medieval Glory & Gore (12th–14th centuries)...... 354 Renaissance Renewal (16th century) ...... 355 The Age of Louis XIV (17th century)...... 356 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page vii

Contents vii From Enlightenment to Revolution ...... 356 The Empire ...... 357 The Restoration & Urban Renewal ...... 358 From the Commune to the Belle Epoque ...... 358 The World Wars ...... 359 Post-War Paris...... 360 14 French Words & Phrases ...... 362 Index ...... 365 Accommodations ...... 372 Restaurants ...... 373 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page viii

D LESS PEN S ™ E SEE MOR

Paris Arrondissements ...... 8 The Louvre ...... 141 Accommodations on the Père-Lachaise Cemetery ...... 153 Right Bank ...... 36 Attractions in the 1st & 2nd . . . 159 Accommodations on the Left Bank ...... 46 Attractions in the 3rd & 4th . . . 161 Accommodations on the Attractions in the 5th & 6th . . . 163 Left Bank ...... 55 Attractions in the 7th ...... 169 Accommodations on the Attractions in the 8th ...... 171 Right Bank ...... 59 Attractions in the 11th, Accommodations on the 12th, 19th & 20th ...... 175 Right Bank ...... 69 Attractions in the 16th ...... 179 Where to Dine on the Right Bank ...... 76 Attractions in the 18th ...... 184 Where to Dine on the ...... 221 Left Bank ...... 90 ...... 225 Where to Dine on the Walking Tour 1: The Quays Left Bank ...... 99 of the Seine ...... 231 Where to Dine on the Walking Tour 2: The Marais . . . . 239 Right Bank ...... 103 Walking Tour 3: Montmartre . . . 247 Where to Dine on the Right Bank ...... 111 Ile de France ...... 301 Where to Dine in Versailles ...... 303 Montmartre ...... 119 Notre-Dame de Chartres ...... 309 Top Paris Attractions ...... 126 Vaux le Vicompte ...... 313 Notre-Dame de Paris ...... 133 Fontainebleau...... 317