02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page iii ND LES SPE S ™ SEE MORE Contents A Note from Pauline . xi 1 Paris: An Introduction Sights You’ve Gotta See, Things. .You’ve . Gotta. .Do . .. .. .. .. .. .3 2 The City’s Best Museums . 4 Uncommon Lodgings . 4 Dining for All Tastes . 5 The Finest “Other” Experiences . 5 2 Lay of the Land Getting Around within. .the . .City . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .10 . 7 The Neighborhoods of Paris . 14 3 Accommodations, Both Standard & Not Staying in a Private Apartment . 22 Hotels . .. .. .. .. .. 32. 22 Louvre–Châtelet (1st Arrondissement) . 35 Opéra–Bourse (2nd Arrondissement). 40 The Marais (3rd & 4th Arrondissements) . 41 Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement) . 44 Saint Germain (6th Arrondissement) . 51 Invalides–Eiffel Tower (7th Arrondissement) . 53 ChampsCOPYRIGHTED Elysées & Park Monceau MATERIAL (8th & 17th Arrondissements) . 57 Grands Boulevards to Canal Saint-Martin (9th & 10th Arrondissements) . 60 Bastille & Faubourg St-Antoine (11th & 12th Arrondissements) . 62 iii 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page iv iv Contents Montparnasse (14th Arrondissement) . 64 Trocadéro & Passy (16th Arrondissement) . 65 Montmartre (18th Arrondissement) . 66 Hostels . 69 Heureux Campers. 70 4 Dining Choices . 71 Déjeuner sur L’Herbe . 72 Browsing the Bakeries . 73 Choosing the Right Restaurant . 74 The Quest for Good Meals . 75 Louvre–Chatelet (1st Arrondissement) . 75 Opera–Bourse (1st & 2nd Arrondissements). 80 The Marais (3rd & 4th Arrondissement). 83 Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement) . 88 Saint Germain (6th arrondissement). 94 Invalides–Eiffel Tower (7th Arrondissement) . 97 Champs Elysees–Parc Monceau (8th & 17th Arrondissements). 102 Grands Boulevards to Canal Saint Martin (9th & 10th Arrondissements). 107 Bastille & Faubourg Saint Antoine (11th & 12th Arrondissements). 110 Montparnasse (14th arrondissement) . 115 Trocadero & Passy (16th Arrondissement) . 116 Montmartre (18th Arrondissement). 118 Cafe Culture . 121 5 Remarkable Sights & Attractions. 124 Making the Most of Your Time . 125 Paris’ 10 Iconic Sights . 128 Twelve Runners-Up to the Iconic Sights . 145 Museums for Visitors with Specialized Interests . 155 Especially for Children . 177 Architectural Masterpieces & Monuments. 177 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page v Contents v Churches & Other Houses of Worship . 184 Touring the City of Light . 190 6 The “Other” Paris . 199 How Parisians Learn. 200 How Parisians Work . 205 How They Play . 208 How They Relax. 212 7 Paris Outdoors . 213 Paris’ Great Parks & Gardens . 213 Sports & Recreation Opportunities . 224 Spectator Sports . 226 8 Walkabouts. 229 9 Le Shopping . 252 Shopping Neighborhoods & Streets. 253 Department Stores . 257 Second-hand & Other Discounted Clothing Treasures. 258 Antiques & Brocantes . 261 Flea Markets . 261 Individual Stores You’ll Want to Visit . 261 10 Nightlife in the City of Light . 276 Classical Music . 276 Opera & Dance . 278 Theater . 279 Movies . 283 Can You Do the Can Can? . 284 Live Music Clubs . 285 Let’s Go Dancing . 289 Clubbing . 291 Bars & Lounges . 293 Gay Paree . 298 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page vi vi Contents 11 Get Out of Town . 300 Versailles . 300 Chartres . 308 Vaux le Vicomte . 311 Fontainebleau . 315 Giverny . 318 Disneyland Paris . 320 12 The Essentials of Planning. 322 When to Visit . 322 Finding a Good Airfare to Paris . 327 Entry Requirements . 329 Customs: What You Can Bring In & What You Can Take Home . 330 Traveling from Paris to Other Parts of France . 331 Traveling from Paris to Other Parts of Europe. 332 Travel Insurance—Do You Need It? . 333 How Do I Get to the Airport? . 334 What to Pack . 336 Money Matters . 337 Safety & Health. 339 Special Types of Travelers . 342 Staying Wired While You’re Away . 345 Recommended Books & Films about the City . 346 13 A Closer Look . 352 Roman Rule (1st century B.C.–2nd century A.D.) . 352 Barbarian Invasions (3rd–5th centuries) . 353 Merovingian & Carolingian Dynasties (6th–10th centuries) . 353 The Founding of the Capetian Dynasty (11th century). 354 Medieval Glory & Gore (12th–14th centuries). 354 Renaissance Renewal (16th century) . 355 The Age of Louis XIV (17th century). 356 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page vii Contents vii From Enlightenment to Revolution . 356 The Empire . 357 The Restoration & Urban Renewal . 358 From the Commune to the Belle Epoque . 358 The World Wars . 359 Post-War Paris. 360 14 French Words & Phrases . 362 Index . 365 Accommodations . 372 Restaurants . 373 02_052396 ftoc.qxp 2/22/07 11:29 PM Page viii D LESS PEN S ™ E SEE MOR Paris Arrondissements . 8 The Louvre . 141 Accommodations on the Père-Lachaise Cemetery . 153 Right Bank . 36 Attractions in the 1st & 2nd . 159 Accommodations on the Left Bank . 46 Attractions in the 3rd & 4th . 161 Accommodations on the Attractions in the 5th & 6th . 163 Left Bank . 55 Attractions in the 7th . 169 Accommodations on the Attractions in the 8th . 171 Right Bank . 59 Attractions in the 11th, Accommodations on the 12th, 19th & 20th . 175 Right Bank . 69 Attractions in the 16th . 179 Where to Dine on the Right Bank . 76 Attractions in the 18th . 184 Where to Dine on the Bois de Boulogne . 221 Left Bank . 90 Bois de Vincennes . 225 Where to Dine on the Walking Tour 1: The Quays Left.