D.Bakir Calisma Eng
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Yedi Kardefl tower (1) 200 Another Look at East and Southeast of Turkey An old picture of Diyarbak›r nargile house/tea house (2) On the west bank of the Tigris, Diyarbak›r has been one of the main Provincial population settlements of the region At a 1,460,714 (2007) throughout history. Stone tools and glance Average altitude other artefacts unearthed in the 660m province reveal that the area has Area continuously been settled since 15,162 square kilometres Palaeolithic times. The Hurrians and Districts Mitannis were the first civilisations Diyarbak›r, Bismil, Çermik, Ç›nar, here, and they were followed by the Çüngüs, Dicle, E¤il, Ergani, Hani, Hittites, Assyrians, Medes, Hazro, Kocaköy, Kulp, Lice, Silvan Achaemenids, Parthians, Romans, Economy Byzantines and so forth. In the early Agriculture, Livestock farming, Light years of Christianity the city was an industry, Commerce, Tourism important religious centre called Amid Neighbouring provinces and produced many theologians, some Ad›yaman, Malatya and fianl›urfa (west), of whom are buried in the Virgin Mary Bingöl and Elaz›¤ (north), Mufl (north- Church. Muslim did conquest east), Batman (east), Mardin (south) Diyarbak›r in 639 by Halid bin Velid, one of the commanders of the army led by Îyâz bin Ganm who was given ern gates as “Tigris”, “Rum”, “Ermen” the mission of conquering el-Cezire. and “Tel”, respectively. He also men- Once Islam gained dominance in the tions the existence of a water right at region, Diyarbak›r was ruled in the the middle of the city whose source is 10th and 11th centuries by Mervanids, unknown and then describes the a Kurdish dynasty. Persian traveller Grand Mosque and city walls. The and literary man Nâs›r-› Hüsrev who battle of Malazgirt in 1071 cemented visited Diyarbak›r in late 1046 during Muslim control over Anatolia and the the reign of Mervani Ruler decline of the Byzantines, although Nasrüddevle (1021-1061) gives some Diyarbak›r was not captured by the information about the city in his work Muslims until 7th century. Thereafter titled “Sefernâme”. According to Diyarbak›r and the rest of the region Hüsrev, the city is on a huge rock, sur- came under the Seljuks, Artukids, rounded by black walls; he names ‹naldis, Ayyubids, Karakoyunlus, eastern, western, northern and south Akkoyunlus and Ottomans. Diyarbak›r 201 The province is not particularly green: Newroz in Diyarbak›r (3) the plains which make up much of the province are green in springtime, but otherwise vegetation amounts to patches of oak forest on the hills. Mount Kolubaba (1957m) in the Karacada¤ range is as mountainous as Diyarbak›r gets. The local economy is dominated by agriculture, including the cultivation of cereals, pulses, during the Kurdish Newroz Festival cotton and fruits. Diyarbak›r is an (see p: 248). important point for commerce, served Elsewhere in the province, Silvan as it is by the railway between town has the large and beautifully Istanbul and Batman; Bismil also decorated Selahaddin Eyyubi Camii, north east of Diyarbak›r has some oil while nearby is the famous Malabadi resources while copper is found in Bridge, an enormous stone structure Ergani district, and Kulp is an impor- and one of the most famous of its tant sericulture centre. kind in Turkey. The province also has Diyarbak›r is the northern gateway to a popular spa resort at Çermik, the Fertile Crescent of Mesopotamia where numerous hotels and guest- and, as the largest city in the south- houses cluster around a hot-spring east of Turkey, is indeed the place complex. If you have a thing for tourists naturally gravitate towards caves, head to Birkleyn, where there when visiting here. The substantial are inscriptions and reliefs dating city walls are the most obvious back to the Assyrians, or to sight, but even more Sevenp›nar, rewarding is the where the Hilar introduction caves contain that the city various rock offers to the tombs, also with complex reli- ancient reliefs. There gious and cultural are yet more rock make-up of this part of tombs near the Dicle Diyarbak›r old town (4) Turkey – evident in its from the sky Dam in E¤il district, and mosques, churches and distinc- reachable by boat. tively Kurdish flavour. If you have Besides plenty of Islamic architec- come to southeastern Turkey to get ture, the province is also home to an some deeper insight into the region old synagogue at Çermik, and several beyond what makes it into the news churches including a substantial one headlines and to understand its peo- at Çüngüfl. Finally, if you want to see ples, then this is the ideal place to silk being produced – unusual in start, particularly if you can be here Turkey – head to the Kulp district. Diyarbak›r city walls (5) 202 Another Look at East and Southeast of Turkey Most tourists are naturally drawn to the old city, encircled by huge walls of black stone and overlooking the quiet Hevsel Gardens and farmlands of the Tigris Valley to the east. It’s possible to ascend various sections of the wall for great views of the surrounding countryside as well as the bustling streets within the old city. Here you will also find a number of attractive old mosques as well as two fully opened churches and some ruined ones, bearing mute witness to the now largely vanished Christian community. Things seemed more multicultural to the traveller Edmund Naumann, visit- ing in 1890, who described seeing “dervishes in fantastic clothes, religious Keldanimen [Chaldean Christians]… Turks and Christians and still many others… An Armenian shoe Far view of the walls (6) shop, with red, yellow and green leathers at the front and a lot of Diyarbak›r City Armenians working inside was beauti- ful enough to inspire one to point.” It is the largest city of not just eastern Today the diversity is less obvious, Turkey but the whole Kurdish-speak- though it is there in the presence of ing world, what is significant about the Kurmanji- and Zazaki-speaking Kurds, city’s obvious pride in its Kurdish iden- ethnic Turkish students and a small tity is that it has given Diyarbak›r the Arab minority. Despite a surprising confidence to blend itself into the fab- amount of modern architecture, there ric of modern Turkey, more so than are still districts of old houses and some expect; these days the alleyways. Also visible are the Diyarbak›rians here are just as likely to remnants of shantytowns that sprang speak Turkish as Kurdish, and they do up after a massive influx of Kurds from so with a unique accent. the countryside caused by the troubles And as visitors soon discover, for the most part Diyarbak›r (population 592,557) is a likeable and surprisingly progressive city, with some worthwhile monuments, a thriving university, lively restaurants and atmospheric old tea- houses. Walking down the streets of old town, you may find students befriending you in order to practise their English and they will point out the finer points of Kurdish dress, the nuances of the Zaza and Kurmanji, and Photo taken in 1873. On the right a Kurd from even which Kurdish cassettes are Cizre, Center, a Kurd of Mardin and a shepherd especially worth hearing. from Diyarbek›r (7) Diyarbak›r 203 Da¤kap› tower (8) of recent decades, though these are Da¤ Kap› to Mardin Kap› now gradually being removed. Gazi Cad, the main north–south thor- The effects of that influx are also oughfare in the old city, connects Da¤ evident in the new city, whose Kap› (the north gate in the city walls) high-rise neighbourhoods sprawl to with Mardin Kap› (the south gate) over the west and north of the city walls. a distance of just under 1500m. This Few tourists spend much time here, section covers the two gates plus but it’s worth having a look around the bustling Ofis area, in particular the attractions along, or just off, Gazi Cad. restaurants and cafés of Sanat Soka¤› Da¤ Kap› (Derîyê Çîyê) (Art Street). All in all, Diyarbak›r deserves a stay of at least a couple of You’re bound to pass through Da¤ Kap› days, though you’ll get a much better (called Harput Kap› in the past), the appreciation of the place if you can hang around for double that time. After Newroz (see p.248), organised by Municipality, Diyarbak›r’s Culture and Art Festival is the city’s main festival and attracts some international per- formers. Over the space of a week in late May/early June events are held at dozens of venues in the city centre – including in the open-air near Da¤ Kap› – and in other towns in the province. The programme features concerts, film screenings, folkloric dances, shows involving acrobats and clowns, and so forth, and there also panel discussions and seminars on the art and literature of the region. Diyarbak›r city centre, Ofis (9) 204 Another Look at East and Southeast of Turkey Some prominent people from Diyarbakir Among many figures Yafl 35. He died in from the arts to have 1956 and is buried in come from Diyarbak›r Ankara. is the poet Another of the city’s Ahmed Arif, born literary figures is the here in 1927. Armenian writer He studied philosophy M›g›rdiç Margosyan, at Ankara University born in the Hançepek and was arrested on (10) quarter of the old city political grounds in Ahmed Arif in 1938. He has written 1950, serving two years in prison. short stories in Armenian, published His fame derives from just one in the award-winning collection Mer anthology, Hasretinden Prangalar Ayt Go¤mer› (“My Hometown”), Eskittim, which became highly and often describes the life of popular after its publication in Armenians in Diyarbak›r and their 1968.