Andes Three Peak Expedition, Peru
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476 the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Glaciers That Our Access Was Finally Made Through the Mountain Rampart
476 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL glaciers that our access was finally made through the mountain rampart. One group operated there and climbed some of the high-grade towers by stylish and demanding routes, while the other group climbed from a hid- den loch, ringed by attractive peaks, north of the valley and intermingled with the mountains visited by the 1971 St. Andrews expedition (A.A.J., 1972. 18: 1, p. 156). At the halfway stage we regrouped for new objec- tives in the side valleys close to Base Camp, while for the final efforts we placed another party by canoe amongst the most easterly of the smooth and sheer pinnacles of the “Land of the Towers,” while another canoe party voyaged east to climb on the islands of Pamiagdluk and Quvernit. Weather conditions were excellent throughout the summer: most climbs were done on windless and sunny days and bivouacs were seldom contem- plated by the parties abseiling down in the night gloom. Two mountains may illustrate the nature of the routes: Angiartarfik (1845 meters or 6053 feet; Grade III), a complex massive peak above Base Camp, was ascended by front-pointing in crampons up 2300 feet of frozen high-angled snow and then descended on the same slope in soft thawing slush: this, the easiest route on the peak, became impracticable by mid-July when the snow melted off to expose a crevassed slope of green ice; Twin Pillars of Pamiagdluk (1373 meters or 4505 feet; Grade V), a welded pair of abrupt pinnacles comprising the highest peak on this island, was climbed in a three-day sortie by traversing on to its steep slabby east wall and following a thin 300-metre line to the summit crest. -
A Journey Through the Cordillera Blanca of Peru
88 A JOURNEY THROUGH THE CORDILLERA BLANCA OF PERU A JOURNEY THROUGH THE CORDILLERA BLANCA OF PERU BY H. L. STEMBRIDGE (Six illustrations: nos. 30- 35) • F the nine weeks that Alf Gregory and I were together in Peru in the middle of 1963 five were spent among the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, two in the 'hotlands ', the lush, humid forests bordering the Alto Madre de Dios river, the remainder in the central uplands where the great ruined cities of the Incas ar.e to be found. Each phase had its attractions. If the ruins enthralled us, the jungle~ was far and away the most amusing, though a trifle uncomfortable, but for unalloyed pleasure a three weeks' journey through the Cordillera Blanca takes pride of place. I suppose that most of us, at some period in our lives, find that the urge to lay siege to a peak diminishes that our happiness among mountains spreads itself to embrace everything that surrounds them, that to travel along the valleys and ridges and over the passes camping, photographing, meeting a people whose history and customs intrigue us, gives to us as much pleasure as do the mountains we manage to scale. For people who enjoy this sort of thing, there can be nothing better than the Cordillera Blanca. Greg says the peaks there are as fine as any in the world, and he should know. Equally impressive were the accessories the flowers in late spring, more colourful than the Alps, birds amazing in variety, a climate set fair from May to August, unexploited antiquities and, of course, the Indians, primitive, splendid, colourful, dirty, completely uninhibited ,.---most of all the Indians. -
INVITATION to the ANDES. John C. Oberlin
INVITATION TO THE ANDES INVITATION TO THE ANDES . • BY JOHN C. OBERLIN (Names of mountains printed in italic are unofficial.) ......... Scottish Himalayan Expedition and other similar small parties have stimulated the hopes and aroused the ambitions of young · mountaineers, not only of Great Britain, but also of North America. lt demonstrated that the right sort of amateur party with limited funds could nevertheless explore and· climb in a remote region with eminent satisfaction and success. Many are eager to follow the example. I suggest that the Andes of Peru may offer what they seek. Peru ~s a magnificent country, bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west but largely draining into the Atlantic. This apparent anomaly is due to the extensive series of mountain ranges relatively near the coast which rise above 2o,ooo ft. and separate the strip of dry coastal plain from the luxuriant forests of the Amazon basin. .Most of the higher peaks are sheathed in snow and ice and many remain unclimbed despite the ready accessibility of their bases, for the simple reason that they are both difficult and dangerous. Other very large peaks, such as the volcano Coropuna (6,613 m.), offer no real problem other than their size. If the proper time of year is s~lected the weather is both com fortable and reliable, despite proximity to the equator, due to the effect of the cold Humboldt Current along· the coast and to the altitude of the valleys from which the peaks are reached. The Peruvians are friendly and most hospitable, and living and travel expenses are low. -
INTERMEDIATE LEVEL CLIMBS Grade: PD+/AD Altitude: 6354M
INTERMEDIATE LEVEL CLIMBS Grade: PD+/AD Altitude: 6354m.a.s.l. Chopicalqui is located in the Llanganuco valley, between Huascaran and Contrahierbas mountains. With a summit elevation of 6,354 meters (20,846 ft.) above sea level it is one of the highest peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. This climb has some technical sections and requires some climbing experience. There may be some steep sections depending on mountain conditions, and climbers will use their alpine climbing, glacier travel, rope and rappel skills. Climbers are rewarded with spectacular views of Huascaran, Yanapaccha, Chacraraju, Pisco, and the Huandoys. Day 1: Huaraz - Chopicalqui Base Camp This morning we’ll pick you up at your hotel and head towards the Callejón de Huaylas on the north side of Huaraz. As we head out of Huaraz the scenery quickly changes to beautiful traditional Andean villages and farmland. We’ll pass through Carhuaz, its name derived from qarwash which means yellow, and the color of the retama flower (broom flowers) known to the area (2650m/8692ft). Here we will find traditional homemade ice-cream, fresh milk, and the freshest local fruits. We continue and eventually reach the small town of Yungay. This town was completely buried by an avalanche that crashed down from Mt. Huascarán’s north peak in 1970. From here we begin our climb up the Llanganuco Valley to the entrance to the Llanganuco Valley where we will register at the National Park Control station. After we will visit the two sublime lakes of Llanganuco and pause for lunch. After we’ll continue driving up the Ancush Valley between Huascarán and Chopicalqui. -
Revista De Glaciares Y Ecosistemas De Montaña
ISSN 2519-7649 Revista de Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña Año 2, Número 3 – Diciembre 2017 INAIGEM Instituto Nacional de Investigación en Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña Huaraz, Ancash, Perú Revista de Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña INAIGEM Presidente Ejecutivo Ing. Benjamín Morales Arnao Secretario General Sr. Jorge Rojas Fernández Editor Mg. Steven A. Wegner Comité Editorial Sr. Jorge Rojas Fernández Ing. Ricardo Villanueva Ramírez Dr. Roberto Arias Flores Comité Consultivo Dr. Lonnie Thompson (School of Earth Sciences, The Ohio State University, Columbus, EE.UU.) Dr. Cedomir Marangunic Damianovic (Geoestudios, Santiago, Chile) Dr. Bernard Francou (LTHE - Laboratoire d’étude des Transferts en Hidrologie et Environnement, Grenoble, Francia) Prof. Dr. Wilfried Haeberli (Geographisches Institut, Universität Zürich, Suiza) Ing. Zaniel Novoa Goicochea (Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, Lima) Dr. Jeffrey S. Kargel (Department of Hydrology & Atmospheric Sciences, The University of Arizona, Tucson, EE.UU.) Dr. Enrique Flores Mariazza (Laboratorio de Utilización de Pastizales, Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina, Lima) Dr. Hildegardo Córdova Aguilar (Centro de Investigación en Geografía Aplicada, Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, Lima) Dr. Bryan G. Mark (Department of Geography, The Ohio State University, Columbus, EE.UU.) La Revista de Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña es una publicación científica de periodicidad semestral (junio y diciembre). Tiene como objetivo difundir los resultados de trabajos de investigación en glaciares y ecosistemas de montaña desarrollados en los Andes, especialmente en el Perú, pero también en otros países andinos. La revista publica artículos científicos originales e inéditos especialmente en las áreas de glaciología y ecología de ecosistemas de montaña, así como disciplinas afines de ciencias de la tierra, ciencias biológicas y ciencias sociales. -
Churup Lake + Santa Cruz Trek + Pisco Mountain Climb (14 Days)
DAY HIKE TO CHURUP LAKE + SANTA CRUZ TREK + PISCO MOUNTAIN CLIMB (14 DAYS) Destination: Churup Lake + Santa Cruz Trek + Pisco Mountain Climb Grade of Trek: Moderate to difficult Entry Point: Cashapampa Exit Point: Cebollapampa Max. Elevation: Summit Pisco (5750m) Major Attractions: Natural Environment, Wildlife, Mountains, Peaks, Hills, Flowers, Flora- Fauna etc. Best Period: May to September Day 01: Arrival to Lima, Peru. (Overnight in a hotel in Lima) Your guide will be waiting you in the International Airport “Jorge Chavez” in Lima Peru, Holding a placard with the name of the Tour Leader or passengers names, the passengers will then be transferred to the Hotel, located in modern district of Miraflores, from the airport it’s around 20 kilometers and it takes 30 minutes. Then in the Hotel the guest will be welcomed with Peruvian typical drink Pisco Sour and overnight there. Day 02: Transfer from Lima (154m.) to Huaraz (3100m) by bus. (Overnight in a hotel) Our clients will be transferred to the bus station in Lima by private car; the bus will take you by the Pan-American highway to the north side from Lima until the Ancash department, boundary in the district of Paramonga, 4 hours travel in the Coastal area and 4 hours travel in the Andean area. From Paramonga you will start to climb up the Cordillera Negra in the East side with direction to the highest Conococha pass at (4100m/13448ft). From here you can already appreciate the views where the white Mountain range start it’s also called Callejon de Huaylas and Cordillera Huayhuash, from here we will start to go down to the next village called Catac at (3640m/11939ft), Recuay (3400m/11152ft) and finally arriving to Huaraz at (3100m/10168ft). -
Peruvian Andes Adventures Guide & Driver
Superior Personal Tours in the Peruvian Andes Specialists in: Trekking, Climbing, Camping, Tours & Adventure Perú Head Office: New Zealand Office: Hisao and Eli Morales Anne Thomson José Olaya #532 104 Lord Rutherford Road Huaraz, ANCASH Brightwater, NELSON PERU NEW ZEALAND Tele: 0051 (0)43 421864 Tele: 0064 (0)3 5424222 www.peruvianandes.com Email: [email protected] TOURS & DAY HIKES (Tours Clients) 2019 Private Guided Service We have a variety of hikes and tours throughout the Huaraz and Cordillera Blanca offering options from easy tours or short hikes to hard full day hikes, all with spectacular scenery. Enjoy the grand Cordillera Blanca mountain scenery, crystal blue lakes, local village and friendly people at your own pace in the company of your private Peruvian Andes Adventures guide & driver. Most of our hikes and tours depart Huaraz early morning (around 07:30am to 08:00am) to allow you to take advantage of the (generally) morning nice clear skies offering the clearest mountain views before the afternoon warm haze descends over the mountain tops. Note 1: Hike grading and walking times are average estimates only for people of average to good fitness. Some people will be faster and others will find it more difficult and be slower. The effects of altitude do make hiking much harder than a similar hike closer to sea level and different people adjust to the altitude in a different timeframe. Note 2: Most hiking options in the Cordillera Blanca should be considered to be physically demanding owing to the altitude and the mountainous nature of the terrain. There are very few flat hiking options and trails on some hikes are steep – both ascending and descending and can be slippery & rocky in places. -
PERUVIAN ANDES ADVENTURES Climbing Two Peaks From
PERUVIAN ANDES ADVENTURES Climbing Two Peaks from Demanda / Llanganuco valley PISCO & CHOPICALQUI CLIMBS 09 Days or YANAPACCHA & CHOPICALQUI CLIMBS 07 Days A challenging program climbing two peaks, both conveniently accessed from the head of the Demanda Valley, location of the famous twin Llanganuco Lakes. PISCO 5753m (18875 ft) Grade: PD / Moderate snow climbs – Physically hard Pisco is an achievable climb for anyone who is well acclimatised and fit. It is a suitable climb for beginner climbers and is also a rewarding climb for experienced climbers and it is an ideal preparation peak for the demanding Chopicalqui climb, providing extra acclimatisation and strength. Most years, there is no technical climbing on Pisco. Some years or months there are short steep sections, some hard ice to negotiate or a crevasse to navigate around. From the summit you are rewarded with magnificent views of the many surrounding peaks, including the beautiful Chacraraju and massive Huascarán (6768m), the highest mountain in Peru. Pisco YANAPACCHA 5460m (17913 ft) Grade: AD- / some steep climbing Yanapaccha is located very close to popular Pisco but is much less known and less frequented by climbers than Pisco. It is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections and a final slope of up to 65 deg. to the summit. Yanapaccha is a superb preparation peak for more technical & physically demanding climbing on Chopicalqui. Yanapaccha Summit CHOPICALQUI 6354m (20847 ft) Grade : TD / Difficult, long serious climbs Chopicalqui, at 6354m, is sometimes referred to as the "third peak of Huascarán". It is a demanding peak to climb, with sections of steep climbing. -
Áreas Naturales Protegidas Del Perú: El Comienzo
ÁREAS NATURALES PROTEGIDAS DEL PERÚ: EL COMIENZO MARC J. DOUROJEANNI 2018 Citar como: Dourojeanni, Marc J. 2018. Áreas Naturales Protegidas del Perú: El Comienzo. 1ª ed. Universidad Nacional Guzmán y Valle. Editora Grijley, Lima. 330p. 1 Contenido Presentación 2 Introducción 3 PRIMERA PARTE: El Contexto 6 Hasta 1961 6 Diseño del Sistema Nacional de Áreas Protegidas 13 Legislación de áreas protegidas 24 Gestión del Sistema 29 Los guardaparques 38 Formación profesional en áreas protegidas 43 Investigacion científica y áreas protegidas 45 Otras iniciativas de los años 1960 a 1980 48 La prensa y los periodistas 55 Contexto internacional y organizaciones no gubernamentales 56 SEGUNDA PARTE: 68 Parque Nacional Cutervo (1961) 68 Parque Nacional Tingo María (1965) 71 Reserva Nacional Pampa Galeras (1967) 75 Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria (1968) 93 Parque Nacional Manu (1973) 97 Reserva Nacional Junín, Santuario Nacional Huayllay y Santuario Histórico de Chacamarca (1974) 111 Parque Nacional Huascarán (1975) 117 Reserva Nacional Paracas (1975) 124 Parque Nacional Cerros de Amotape (1975) 131 Coto de Caza El Angolo (1975) 133 Reserva Nacional Lachay (1977) 137 Coto de Caza Sunchubamba (1977) 141 Reserva Nacional Titicaca (1978) 144 Reserva Nacional de Salinas-Aguada Blanca (1979) 147 Santuario Histórico Pampa de Ayacucho (1980) 149 Santuario Nacional Calipuy y Reserva Nacional Calipuy (1981) 151 Santuario Histórico Machu Picchu (1981) 153 Santuario Nacional Lagunas de Mejía (1981) 157 Parque Nacional Río Abiseo (1983) 158 Santuario Nacional Pampas -
2017 Peru Trip Proposal
Harvard Mountaineering Club – HMC Proposal for summer trip 2017 Andes Editing: Alar, Feb 23rd, 2017 Introduction Here we propose a HMC summer trip to South-American Andes, with focus on Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Why Cordillera Blanca? There is number of reasons, which are listed here: 1. Cordillera Blanca is a premiere range in Andes for mountaineering. 2. Our recent trips have been focused on North-America and Alps and in last years HMC has not arranged expeditions or trips anywhere in Andes. We believe that expanding our geographical reach also to other areas would enrich the overall experience and promote discovering mountains more globally. 3. Cordillera Blanca provides experience with high altitude mountaineering, which is not possible in North-America, and particularly in US outside of Alaska. It is therefore good preparation and practice for high altitude mountaineering also elsewhere, like Alaska and Himalayas. 4. Owning to its location in tropical areas high mountains can be climbed lighter, with equipment and style similar to that of Alps or Cascades, while reaching much higher altitudes. 5. It is one of the most popular areas in Peruvian Andes for mountaineering, which gives somewhat better infrastructure in Huaraz, such as accommodation, mountain guides, other climbers (to get advices etc.), better mountain rescue services than elsewhere in the area. 6. Easily accessible. Transport from Lima to area, but also availability of minibuses, taxes, “burros” to help to trailheads and base camps. Most routes do not need long approaches. 7. Seasonal match. Good climates at the end of May and beginning of June, which would suit for HMC summer trip. -
Tageswanderungen in Der Cordillera Blanca Rund Um Huascaran Und Artesonraju Mit Gipfeloption Mateo, 5150 M | DAV Summit Club
Bergwandern / Zelt-Trekking / Südamerika / Peru / Cordillera Blanca TAGESWANDERUNGEN IN DER CORDILLERA BLANCA RUND UM HUASCARAN UND ARTESONRAJU MIT GIPFELOPTION MATEO, 5150 M Beschreibung Leichte bis mittelschwere Tageswanderungen, 14 Tage Unterkunft in Hotels und Gasthäusern Lima – Metropole mit kolonialer Vergangenheit Entspannter Start am Pazifikstrand Huaraz - das Chamonix der Anden Blick auf Perus schönste und höhste Berge im Huascaran Nationalpark Traumhafte Lagunen und spektakuläre Gletscher Die ursprüngliche Ostseite der Cordillera Blanca Uralte Handwerkskunst und einfaches Dorfleben in Chacas Gipfelmöglichkeit: – Mateo, 5150 m Programm Über 30 Sechstausender, unzählige Fünftausender sowie gewaltige Gletscher und türkise Lagunen prägen die Cordillera Blanca. Vielen gilt sie als die schönste des Landes. Während unseres Wanderprogramms, ortskundig begleitet durch unseren lokalen Bergwanderführer, können wir uns nicht sattsehen an den schnee- und eisbedeckten Flanken und Gipfeln so berühmter Sechstausender wie Huascarań , Chopicalqui, Quitaraju und einem der schönsten Berg der Welt, dem Artesonraju. Dabei müssen wir auf den Komfort eines bequemen Hotelbetts nicht verzichten und leckeres peruanisches Essen belohnt uns für die Anstrengungen des Tages. Wer am Ende der Reise noch eine sportliche Herausforderungen sucht kann optional, begleitet durch staatlich geprüfte lokale Bergführer, den vergeltscherten Gipfel des Mateo, 5150 m, besteigen. Erläuterungen: Gz 5 h Die Gehzeit ohne Pausen beträgt fünf Stunden. [F/M/–] [F/–/A] [–/–/A] Enthaltene Mahlzeiten: F = Frühstück; M = Mittagessen; A = Abendessen 1. Tag: Ankunft in Lima Sie haben Ihre Reise bereits am Vortag mit dem Abflug in Deutschland begonnen. Sofern Sie den Flug über den DAV Summit Club gebucht haben kommen Sie am frühen Morgen in der Hauptstadt an. Im Ankunftsbereich erwartet Sie Ihr Reiseleiter für die kommenden zwei Wochen. -
Contemporary Landscape Changes in the Cordillera
CONTEMPORARY LANDSCAPE CHANGES IN THE CORDILLERA BLANCA AND CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH OF PERU (1936-2012) Cambios en el Paisaje Contemporáneo de la Cordillera Blanca y la Cordillera Huayhuash del Perú (1936-2012) Sergiu George Jiduc1 1Centre for Environmental Policy, Imperial College London, UK https://doi.org/10.36580/rgem.i1.37-50 ABSTRACT tomadas por F. D. Ayres en 1954 para el National Snow and Ice Data Center en Boulder, Colorado. Los resultados Landscape changes in the Cordillera Blanca and sugieren que, desde 1936, la Cordillera Blanca y la Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru between 1936 and 2012 Cordillera Huayhuash han experimentado una recesión were documented, focusing on glacier and vegetation glaciar extensa y la formación de nuevas lagunas glaciares. cover, as well as changes in the cultural landscape. Repeat En términos del paisaje vegetal, la cobertura de los bosques photography (an analytical tool capable of broadly and nativos de Polylepis parece haber mantenido estable, rapidly providing clarifications regarding landscape and mientras que el área cubierta por las especies no nativas land use changes within a given region) was the principal de Eucalyptus y Pinus parece haber aumentado. Al mismo method used, along with oral testimonies and literature tiempo, el paisaje cultural muestra claramente la expansión reviews. The base material used for the research consisted urbana. of historic photographs taken by the German and Austrian Alpine Club (Alpenverein) Expeditions to the Cordillera Blanca in 1936 and 1939, as well as photographs taken by Palabras clave: Cambios del paisaje, paisaje de mon- F. D. Ayres in 1954 for the National Snow and Ice Data tañas, desglaciación, Parque Nacional Huascarán, Perú, Center in Boulder, Colorado.