Download Itinerary
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
1 Curry Slaymaker
Curry Slaymaker - Father of Huascarán National Park By Lew Scholl Originally dated 7/2/2009 Updated 3/29/2011 [email protected] This year (2011) is the 50th anniversary of the Peace Corps. Its accomplishments are being recognized in many places around the world that have hosted Peace Corps volunteers. As one who has traveled and climbed in Peru, I have a particular interest in one Peace Corps volunteer who accomplished something that those of us who love the mountains consider truly noteworthy; the creation of a major national park in one of the world’s most spectacular mountain ranges, Peru’s Cordillera Blanca – (the White Range”). Curry Slaymaker, who grew up in Rainier Oregon, laid the groundwork for Huascarán National Park while in the Peace Corps. In 1972, six years after leaving the Peace Corps, driven by his deep love of this magnificent place, he came back again to complete this work as a direct employee of the Peruvian government. In 1973, while traveling in Peru, I had the opportunity to meet him. In 1976 he died in a mountaineering accident only a year after the park had become a reality, largely under his guidance and inspiration. This history and Curry’s accomplishments are little known outside of Peru. In 2007 I joined in a Mazama outing and trek around Peru’s Huayhuash Range – a trip that took us to Huaraz, the mountaineering “Mecca” of the Cordillera Blanca and Peru. This trip inspired me to investigate Curry’s life and the circumstances of his death. What follows is the result of that research. -
Nobody Knows Anything Two New Routes in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru
AAC Publications Nobody Knows Anything Two New Routes in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru THE IDEA of going to Peru wasn’t sparked by some coveted unclimbed line. It was simply out of convenience and practicality. As the winter season in the Canadian Rockies wound down, I was getting antsy to go on a trip. Peru seemed ideal: big mountains in a country I had never visited, a chance to see how my body did at altitude, with simple logistics and low costs to boot. My schedule would allow me a month to “train” (i.e., go climbing), and I could go right in the middle of Peru’s dry season. Finding a willing partner with the same open schedule proved more challenging, but eventually I convinced my friend Quentin Lindfield Roberts to take three weeks off. I booked a ticket for six weeks, with no clear plan for the second half of my trip. Upon arriving in Huaraz, Quentin and I quickly found our favorite breakfast hang at Café Andino. Over an endless stream of espresso, we bounced ideas off each other for what to do with his brief time in the country. Eventually we agreed to acclimatize in the Santa Cruz Valley and then consider trying something new. We departed a day later with packs light on climbing gear and heavy with good food, wondering why we’d decided not to cough up the $20 to get our loads hauled in on burros. After a rest day in Alpamayo base camp and a riveting game of bocce ball among the boulders at the moraine camp, at 5,000 meters, we slogged up to the Alpamayo-Quitaraju col, where we decided we still had enough daylight and energy to head up Alpamayo that afternoon. -
Cordillera Blanca : Glaciares En La Historia
Bull. Inst. Fr. &tildes andines 36 B. FRANCOU, P. RlBSTElN - 1995, 24 (1): 37-64 THOMPSON, L.G., 1992- Ice core evidence from Peru and China. in :Clirrrnte sir~eA.D.1500.(R. Bradley and P.D. Jones editors) :517-548, London: Routledege. THOMPSON, L.G., MOSLEY-THOMPSON, E. C MORALES ARNAO, B., 1984 - El Niiio Southern Oscillation events recorded in the stratigraphy of the Tropical Quelccaya ice cap, Peru. Science, :50-53. 22 M. THOMPSON,J., L.G., MOSLEY-THOMPSON, E., DAVIS, M., LIN, P.N., YAO,T., DYURGEROV, & DAI, 1993- ”Recent warming” : ice core evidence from tropical ice cores with empllass on Central Asia. Globnl nird Plnrv&?ry Clrnqe, 7 : 145-156. CORDILLERA BLANCA GLACIARES EN LA HISTORIA I I *O Resumen Seminario internacional: La mis vasta cobertura glaciar situada entre los trilpicos aqarece como objeto de estudio AIUSE ESTRUCTURAL, POL“ AGRARIASY SECTOR AGROPECUARIO EN BOUMA, CHILE, ECUADOR Y PERU, rela tivainente tarde, a fines del sigla XIX, sobre todo gracias a Ias expediciones austro alemanas a partir organizado por el CEPES y FAO y realizado en mayo de 1994 en la ciudad de Lima. de los aiios 1930-1940.EI desarrollo del alpinismo y un gran nilmero de catistrofes mortales asociadas a la dinimica de estos glaciares (rotura de lagunas de represa morrénica, avalanchas) atrajeron la Ajuste estructural el papel relativo del sector agrario en el desarrollo del PerídJuvier lgiiifiíí y atención ysuscitaron investigaciones glaciológicas.En 1980,seencuentran entre losmejormonitoreados de losglaciares tropicales,primero, gracias a un programa -
Stevie Haston Aleš Česen Malcolm Bass Tom Ballard Steve Skelton F.Lli Franchini Korra Pesce
# 33 Stile Alpino Luoghi & Montagne MONTE BIANCO BHAGIRATHI III CIVETTA KISHTWAR SHIVLING GASHERBRUM IV HIMALAYA MALTA TAULLIRAJU Protagonisti STEVIE HASTON ALEš ČESEN MALCOLM BASS TOM BALLARD STEVE SKELTON F.LLI FRANCHINI KORRA PESCE Speciale PILASTRO ROSSO DEL BROUILLARD In collaborazione con: ALPINE STUDIO EDITORE Trimestrale anno VIII n° 33 settembre 2016 (n. 3/2016) € 4,90 La giacca più leggera e impermeabile del momento LIGHTWEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISE MINIMUS 777 JACKET Con un peso di soli 139g, la Minimus 777 è una giacca per Alpinismo e da Trail di una leggerezza estrema, con 3 strati impermeabili, una traspirabilità elevata e una comprimibilità senza precedenti. Pertex® Shield + exclusive technology: 7 denier face, 7 micron membrane, 7 denier tricot backer montane.eu La giacca più leggera e EDITORIAL # 33 impermeabile del momento • Firstly I would like to openly admit that I do not really like to write about or com- ment on other peoples mountaineering endeavors, because it is impossible to comple- tely understand an experience in the mountains unless you have lived it yourself. Ten years after my predecessor I will have the difficult task to replace Fabio Palma in writing the editorials of Stile Alpino. Certainly he is better skilled than me in writing and has been one of the creators of this magazine founded by the Ragni di Lecco group. Nonetheless, I will try to be up to the job helping to select the last ascents around the world and to suggest new places but always taking care to include ascents in the Alps and close to home. The objective of Stile Alpino is to improve and steadily grow in order to publish ar- ticles, that might not have been published before, on ascents in unknown or known areas. -
476 the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Glaciers That Our Access Was Finally Made Through the Mountain Rampart
476 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL glaciers that our access was finally made through the mountain rampart. One group operated there and climbed some of the high-grade towers by stylish and demanding routes, while the other group climbed from a hid- den loch, ringed by attractive peaks, north of the valley and intermingled with the mountains visited by the 1971 St. Andrews expedition (A.A.J., 1972. 18: 1, p. 156). At the halfway stage we regrouped for new objec- tives in the side valleys close to Base Camp, while for the final efforts we placed another party by canoe amongst the most easterly of the smooth and sheer pinnacles of the “Land of the Towers,” while another canoe party voyaged east to climb on the islands of Pamiagdluk and Quvernit. Weather conditions were excellent throughout the summer: most climbs were done on windless and sunny days and bivouacs were seldom contem- plated by the parties abseiling down in the night gloom. Two mountains may illustrate the nature of the routes: Angiartarfik (1845 meters or 6053 feet; Grade III), a complex massive peak above Base Camp, was ascended by front-pointing in crampons up 2300 feet of frozen high-angled snow and then descended on the same slope in soft thawing slush: this, the easiest route on the peak, became impracticable by mid-July when the snow melted off to expose a crevassed slope of green ice; Twin Pillars of Pamiagdluk (1373 meters or 4505 feet; Grade V), a welded pair of abrupt pinnacles comprising the highest peak on this island, was climbed in a three-day sortie by traversing on to its steep slabby east wall and following a thin 300-metre line to the summit crest. -
Folleto Inglés (1.995Mb)
Impressive trails Trekking in Áncash Trekking trails in Santa Cruz © J. Vallejo / PROMPERÚ Trekking trails in Áncash Áncash Capital: Huaraz Temperature Max.: 27 ºC Min.: 7 ºC Highest elevation Max.: 3090 meters Three ideal trekking trails: 1. HUAYHUASH MOUNTAIN RANGE RESERVED AREA Circuit: The Huayhuash Mountain Range 2. HUASCARÁN NATIONAL PARK SOUTH AND HUARAZ Circuit: Olleros-Chavín Circuit: Day treks from Huaraz Circuit: Quillcayhuanca-Cójup 3. HUASCARÁN NATIONAL PARK NORTH Circuit: Llanganuco-Santa Cruz Circuit: Los Cedros-Alpamayo HUAYHUASH MOUNTAIN RANGE RESERVED AREA Circuit: Huayhuash Mountain Range (2-12 days) 45 km from Chiquián to Llámac to the start of the trek (1 hr. 45 min. by car). This trail is regarded one of the most spectacular in the world. It is very popular among mountaineering enthusiasts, since six of its many summits exceed 6000 meters in elevation. Mount Yerupajá (6634 meters) is one such example: it is the country’s second highest peak. Several trails which vary in length between 45 and 180 kilometers are available, with hiking times from as few as two days to as many as twelve. The options include: • Circle the mountain range: (Llámac-Pocpa-Queropalca Quishuarcancha-Túpac Amaru-Uramaza-Huayllapa-Pacllón): 180 km (10-12 days). • Llámac-Jahuacocha: 28 km (2-3 days). Most hikers begin in Llámac or Matacancha. Diverse landscapes of singular beauty are clearly visible along the treks: dozens of rivers; a great variety of flora and fauna; turquoise colored lagoons, such as Jahuacocha, Mitucocha, Carhuacocha, and Viconga, and; the spectacular snow caps of Rondoy (5870 m), Jirishanca (6094 m), Siulá (6344 m), and Diablo Mudo (5223 m). -
A Journey Through the Cordillera Blanca of Peru
88 A JOURNEY THROUGH THE CORDILLERA BLANCA OF PERU A JOURNEY THROUGH THE CORDILLERA BLANCA OF PERU BY H. L. STEMBRIDGE (Six illustrations: nos. 30- 35) • F the nine weeks that Alf Gregory and I were together in Peru in the middle of 1963 five were spent among the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, two in the 'hotlands ', the lush, humid forests bordering the Alto Madre de Dios river, the remainder in the central uplands where the great ruined cities of the Incas ar.e to be found. Each phase had its attractions. If the ruins enthralled us, the jungle~ was far and away the most amusing, though a trifle uncomfortable, but for unalloyed pleasure a three weeks' journey through the Cordillera Blanca takes pride of place. I suppose that most of us, at some period in our lives, find that the urge to lay siege to a peak diminishes that our happiness among mountains spreads itself to embrace everything that surrounds them, that to travel along the valleys and ridges and over the passes camping, photographing, meeting a people whose history and customs intrigue us, gives to us as much pleasure as do the mountains we manage to scale. For people who enjoy this sort of thing, there can be nothing better than the Cordillera Blanca. Greg says the peaks there are as fine as any in the world, and he should know. Equally impressive were the accessories the flowers in late spring, more colourful than the Alps, birds amazing in variety, a climate set fair from May to August, unexploited antiquities and, of course, the Indians, primitive, splendid, colourful, dirty, completely uninhibited ,.---most of all the Indians. -
ABSTRACTS Abstracts ~
INSTITUTE of ANDEAN STUDIES ~ABSTRACTS Abstracts ~ 57th Annual Meeting JANUARY 6–7, 2017 BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA 2 Friday, January 6h RANDALL HAAS , University of Wyoming; JAMES WATSON , University of Arizona Dental evidence for tuber intensification in the Titicaca Basin, 7kya Recent DNA studies point to the South Central Andes as a likely center of potato domestication. We present independent support for this hypothesis with new observations on dental-wear patterns among a burial population of 7000-year-old foragers discovered at the site of Soro Mik’aya Patjxa, Lake Titicaca Basin. Five of sixteen individuals exhibit lingual surface attrition of the maxillary anterior teeth. This observation along with other dental observations, contextual material evidence, and ethnographic comparisons converge to suggest that the Middle Archaic Period foragers of Soro Mik’aya habitually engaged in intensive tuber processing. New questions and implications for Andean domestication are discussed. MARIA BRUNO , Dickinson College; CHRISTINE A. HASTORF , University of California, Berkeley; AMANDA SANTILLI , JAMES CIARROCCA , Dickinson College; JEWELL SORIANO , University of California, Berkeley; JOSÉ CAPRILES FLORES , Pennsylvania State University Palimpsests of Chiripa landscape management The most prominent Andean political and ceremonial centers were not isolated architectural complexes but places made more potent by being situated within meaningful and managed socio ‐natural landscapes. Fine ‐scale topographic mapping around the monumental center of Chiripa, Bolivia by the Taraco Archaeological Project sheds new light onto a palimpsest of long ‐term landscape management of the area. Here, we begin to unpack this complex landscape by examining modified hydraulic features including springs, streams, and raised ‐fields. While this is a first step towards a better understanding of pre ‐ Hispanic management practices, it also reveals significant modifications associated with historic and present ‐day Chiripa communities. -
Glacier Recession and Human Vulnerability in the Yanamarey Watershed of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Climatic Change DOI 10.1007/s10584-010-9870-1 Glacier recession and human vulnerability in the Yanamarey watershed of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru Jeffrey T. Bury · Bryan G. Mark · Jeffrey M. McKenzie · Adam French · Michel Baraer · Kyung In Huh · Marco Alfonso Zapata Luyo · Ricardo Jesús Gómez López Received: 7 April 2009 / Accepted: 18 March 2010 © The Author(s) 2010. This article is published with open access at Springerlink.com Abstract Glaciers in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, are undergoing rapid retreat, in large part due to climate change. These changes are significantly altering water availability in the region and pose critical risks to local populations that are highly dependent on these resources for livelihoods. We examine these issues through an interdisciplinary and linked evaluation of hydrological change and livelihood vulnerability in the Yanamarey watershed. Physical observations of the Yanamarey glacier show acceleration in frontal retreat at a rate of 8 m decade−1 since 1970, accompanied by total volume loss on the order of 0.022 km3. Hydrological and hydrochemical analyses document a possible transformation of stream flow over the past decade as the seasonal storage capacity of the glacier has degraded. Recent stream discharge measurements from the proglacial lake below the glacier are more coincident with the highly variable seasonal precipitation than they were during the 1998–1999 hydrological year. Local household perceptions of glacier recession and seasonal hydrological variability agree with this trend, which is increasing human vulnerability in the watershed. Household case-study survey results demonstrate that J. T. Bury (B) · A. French Department of Environmental Studies, University of California, Santa Cruz, 1156 High Street, Santa Cruz, CA 95064, USA e-mail: [email protected] B. -
INVITATION to the ANDES. John C. Oberlin
INVITATION TO THE ANDES INVITATION TO THE ANDES . • BY JOHN C. OBERLIN (Names of mountains printed in italic are unofficial.) ......... Scottish Himalayan Expedition and other similar small parties have stimulated the hopes and aroused the ambitions of young · mountaineers, not only of Great Britain, but also of North America. lt demonstrated that the right sort of amateur party with limited funds could nevertheless explore and· climb in a remote region with eminent satisfaction and success. Many are eager to follow the example. I suggest that the Andes of Peru may offer what they seek. Peru ~s a magnificent country, bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west but largely draining into the Atlantic. This apparent anomaly is due to the extensive series of mountain ranges relatively near the coast which rise above 2o,ooo ft. and separate the strip of dry coastal plain from the luxuriant forests of the Amazon basin. .Most of the higher peaks are sheathed in snow and ice and many remain unclimbed despite the ready accessibility of their bases, for the simple reason that they are both difficult and dangerous. Other very large peaks, such as the volcano Coropuna (6,613 m.), offer no real problem other than their size. If the proper time of year is s~lected the weather is both com fortable and reliable, despite proximity to the equator, due to the effect of the cold Humboldt Current along· the coast and to the altitude of the valleys from which the peaks are reached. The Peruvians are friendly and most hospitable, and living and travel expenses are low. -
INTERMEDIATE LEVEL CLIMBS Grade: PD+/AD Altitude: 6354M
INTERMEDIATE LEVEL CLIMBS Grade: PD+/AD Altitude: 6354m.a.s.l. Chopicalqui is located in the Llanganuco valley, between Huascaran and Contrahierbas mountains. With a summit elevation of 6,354 meters (20,846 ft.) above sea level it is one of the highest peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. This climb has some technical sections and requires some climbing experience. There may be some steep sections depending on mountain conditions, and climbers will use their alpine climbing, glacier travel, rope and rappel skills. Climbers are rewarded with spectacular views of Huascaran, Yanapaccha, Chacraraju, Pisco, and the Huandoys. Day 1: Huaraz - Chopicalqui Base Camp This morning we’ll pick you up at your hotel and head towards the Callejón de Huaylas on the north side of Huaraz. As we head out of Huaraz the scenery quickly changes to beautiful traditional Andean villages and farmland. We’ll pass through Carhuaz, its name derived from qarwash which means yellow, and the color of the retama flower (broom flowers) known to the area (2650m/8692ft). Here we will find traditional homemade ice-cream, fresh milk, and the freshest local fruits. We continue and eventually reach the small town of Yungay. This town was completely buried by an avalanche that crashed down from Mt. Huascarán’s north peak in 1970. From here we begin our climb up the Llanganuco Valley to the entrance to the Llanganuco Valley where we will register at the National Park Control station. After we will visit the two sublime lakes of Llanganuco and pause for lunch. After we’ll continue driving up the Ancush Valley between Huascarán and Chopicalqui. -
D Altitud: 6025 Masl Artesonraju Is Located in The
ADVANCED LEVEL Grade: D Altitud: 6025 m.a.s.l. Artesonraju is located in the Santa Cruz and Paron Valleys. Artesonraju is an exciting and challenging climb that provides climbers exciting alpine rock and ice climbing, steep snowfields and an exposed ridge. Climbers will enjoy views of Santa Cruz Grande, Taulliraju, among others. Many suggest that Artesonraju, with its beautiful pyramid shape, is the mountain that is shown in the Paramount Pictures logo. Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa – Llamacorral (3760masl/12335’) This morning we’ll pick you up at your hotel and head towards the Callejón de Huaylas on the north side of Huaraz. As we head out of Huaraz the scenery quickly changes to beautiful traditional Andean villages and farmland. We’ll pass through Carhuaz, its name derived from qarwash which means yellow, and the color of the retama flower (broom flowers) known to the area (2650m/8692ft). Here we will find traditional homemade ice-cream, fresh milk, and the freshest local fruits. We continue and eventually reach the small town of Yungay. This town was completely buried by an avalanche that crashed down from Mt. Huascarán’s north peak in 1970. From here we begin our climb up the Llanganuco Valley to the entrance to the Llanganuco Valley where we will register at the National Park Control station. From here we pass the two lakes that are generally called the Llanganuco Lakes - Chinancocha and Orconcocha. On a clear day we will be humbled by the impressive peaks looming above including Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Pisco, Huandoy, and Chacraraju. After organizing our burros and loading up our gear, we’ll hike with day packs to Llamacorral (3760masl), where we’ll camp for the night.