What amI? Revolution Taste the Contents P 30 P 38 Contents When Palestinians drinkbeerandIsraelis eatpork Taste theRevolution Hummus hasbecomethemost popularfoodinIsrael Hummus-thology The Palestinianshaverevived theirownleague Football BehindtheFence An Israelisuddenlycouldnotre-enter hisowncountry How IBecameaPalestinian A quizonreligion andnationality What amI? The mayorofTaybeh fightsforasanitarylandfill Who Cares About Rubbish? Two Germanwomenhave “married” theconflict Stuck intheMiddle “Jeckes” haveastrong relationship towards Germany At Their Roots Interview withlecturer Arie KizelaboutIsraelibooks “History isEnslaved” TheTop-Sellers TheBlackPhenomenon Rent-a-Cross Short Stories Jews andMuslimsare arguing abouttheOldCity The EnemyNextDoor Journalists intheMiddleEastputtheirlivesdanger Between Truth andDeath BusinessasUsual? ThePoorLifeof Abu Faiz Short Stories Former membersoftheSouthLebanese Army liveinIsrael Southern StrangleintheNorth Private securitypersonnelare replacing Israelisoldiers New GuardsattheCheckpoints Traveling through theWest BankisdifficultforPalestinians Passing withProblems Journalists are runningajointradiostation Broadcasting for Peace Palestinian symbolsonwallsundergo change Graffiti –aFormofResistance A Palestinianpainteristemptedbythewall The Stateofthe Art Not alltheJewishsettlersinWest Bankwanttostay The Outsiders Subject

Page 20 38 36 32 31 30 28 26 24 23 22 18 17 15 13 10 9 7 4 2 HOPE Ltd The outsiders

if you want to have peace, you is not a settlement. It is a normal know ignored it as well.” But have to pay a price.” city in Israel, like every other.” not everybody talks as openly Polls, the Bait Ehat has con- Most of the inhabitants moved as Yonah. Dani Dayan, chair- ducted with 1000 settlers living here in the late 70s and early man of the organization of THE OUTSIDERS east and west of the Green Line, 80s, because the Israeli govern- municipal councils in the West Not all the Jewish settlers in the West Bank are there underline the willingness of ment supported them in buying Bank, known as Yesha Council, to stay: Some would trade their home for a house in many to leave voluntarily. “40 a house. “In Jerusalem, I could refused to speak to the media Israel sooner rather than later. percent of the 80,000 settlers only afford a small apartment, about this issue. living east of the security fence, but here I have a large house”, Something will have to hap- would prefer to live in the state says the 40-year-old Neta, who pen with the settlements, that is of Israel”, explains Knesset- owns a toy store. She would be for sure. “They violate the in- member Vilan, “we are trying willing to leave, if a law to that ternational laws of occupation. to help these settlers by reim- effect was passed in the Knes- The occupying party is not al- bursing them for their houses.” set, but sees prerequisites: “I lowed to transfer people into the There have been talks in the have a large house and a busi- occupied territory”, says Sarit Knesset about this law, but it ness, so I would need to get an Michaeli, speaker of the Israeli has not been passed yet. “For equal compensation for that.” Human Rights Organization political reasons, Ehud Olmert Some people are not as open as B’Tselem. “Therefore Israel is and Tzipi Livni did not want Neta. “I would never leave to discuss this in the cabinet Ma’ale Adumim”, says the meetings, so we could not get 22-year-old Adva, who a majority for the law”, Vilan works in a clothing store, hen Benni Raz goes to is now Palestinian territory. In the Knesset, which would reim- believes. Now that the way has “I would not agree with the supermarket in his 2002 a suicide bombing killed burse settlers, that want to trade been cleared for new elections, that law.” The 48-year-old Whometown of Qarne Shom- three teenagers, who were sit- their homes for a house in Israel the law is on hold, but Vilan re- Avi, who owns an electric ron, people refuse to talk to ting in an Italian restaurant in voluntarily. The movement is mains optimistic. “I view this shop in the mall, considers him. When he walks down the the center of the town. “I am funded by donations only and law as a good sign from the Is- it irrelevant to even discuss streets, they look the other way. tired of this war and I don’t Raz is the single fulltime em- raeli point of view to show that a compensation-law. “Take “Sometimes they even call me want to wait until there is any ployee. He sends out letters to we are ready to move step by a look around this huge on my phone and tell me that kind of agreement between the settlers living in the West Bank step out of the West Bank. That city: You can never evacu- they hate me”, says the 55-year- Israelis and the Palestinians”, and visits the different settle- is why I don’t see an alternative ate Ma’ale Adumim.” Wants to leave his settlement and take old. All of this, because Benni says Raz. Deep furrows cut ments to inform the people to it.” Others go beyond the practi- others with him: Benni Raz Raz is willing to leave the set- through his forehead. “I want to about the movement. In scuffed About 20 kilometers east of cal argumentation. “This is our tlement of Qarne Shomron. move to Israel as long as I am folders all around his tiny of- the Knesset in Jerusalem, in homeland”, says Tamar Yonah, responsible for evacuating the When he moved to the town in still strong enough to carry my fice in a commercial area in Tel Ma’ale Adumim, the crooks a radio show host of the na- settlements, regardless of any the north of the West Bank 15 suitcase, find another house and Aviv, Raz keeps hundreds of to the plan become quite obvi- tional-religious channel Arutz political process.” years ago, it seemed like the another job and build a future lists with names and telephone ous. More than 30,000 people 7, who lives in a different set- A lot of work is still ahead of perfect place to raise his four for my children.” numbers. live in this settlement, which is tlement in the West Bank. “The Benni Raz, who nervertheless kids. “The Israeli government But Raz doesn’t have enough They are marked all over with located east of the Green Line, Arabs have 22 countries they stays optimistic. “I know that helped me with the money, so money to move, especially af- yellow text marker and red lines surrounded by walls, fences and can go to and we have only one. things will change. They always that I could afford a large house. ter he lost his job as a driver. and dots. “A lot of the people barb wire. Some of them are or- I get along very well with the have – look at the Berlin Wall Qarne Shomron is a beautiful He decided to take action and want to leave, but are scared to thodox Jews, but most of them Arabs and I would welcome it, for example. If we want peace, place and the people were very founded the movement Bait talk about it openly. They fear are secular. “I don’t understand, if they wanted to live in peace this is the time.” nice.” 15 years later, Raz would Ehad (One Home) together with their neighbours for example, or that people call us settlers”, says with us, but if they don’t want like to leave sooner rather than two members of the Knesset; that they are going to lose their the 63-year-old Adina, who is to, they can leave.” Yonah has Christina Horsten (25) realized, that in this later. The town, with about Colette Avital from the Labor- job. Also many people think drinking coffee in the central received two letters from Bait mall, “that offends me. We are Ehad, asking her to support the region there is no need 6000 inhabitants, is located east Party and Avshalom Vilan from that they are not strong, when for telephone books. of the “Green Line” – according the left wing Meretz Party. Bait they leave, but that’s not true. normal citizens.” Her friend movement. “To me, that is just “Just go to Ramallah. to international agreements, this Ehad strives for legislation in Reality is stronger than us and Batya agrees. “Ma’ale Adumim laughable and all the people I Everyone knows him.”

2 3 HOPE Ltd The State Of the Art During his time in prison, Israel built the separation wall through Mohaned Azza’s hometown Bethlehem. Now the The State artist is trapped in his predicament: Be- ing tempted by the largest canvas in the world – without tainting its uglyness.

It is the question, that bothers him most. It is not about of the working at nighttime, not about hiding from the sol- diers, but it is about the constant queries by the citi- zens living along the wall. They can’t understand why a young man’s hand clings to brushes instead of stones. And probably they don’t want to understand when he replies, that there are already too many stones around Art them. Stones, that rise up to twelve meters into the sky, cutting through the ancient city of Bethlehem on a total length of 25 kilometres and making it the largest canvas in the world for Mohaned Azza. A canvas that threatens him, because he could use the wall for coulourful paint- ings and therewith arouse interest in his art, like some foreigners did. Yet he refuses to paint on the separation wall itself, Azza says. Not only because of the soldiers, that chase the youngsters who like to spray their slogans and em- blems against the occupation on the wall. “We have to keep it ugly”, he says. ”It is an ugly wall, so why make it look nice?” Only sometimes, when foreign artists come and ask him for help he assists them, hoping that the world will look on Palestine through their paintings. It is tangled like the whole conflict. When he was released from prison seven months ago, it seemed that he was just stepping into the next one when he returned to Bethlehem, this quiet town with art on every facade. Two and a half years he spent in some of the ugliest jails in Israel for “work with political par- ties”, as he says. During his abscence Israel built the segregation fence: For him a barrier as well as a chance. He, the art student of Palestinian Al-Quds University, was asked by the National Nakba Committee to paint the story of his people on a wall near the separation wall. It took Azza and a friend two days and nights of non- stop painting. They had to make sure they don’t have too many viewers watching them. Not only because of the questions of Bethlehem’s citizens, but also since Israeli soldiers get furious when there is an assembly of Pales- tinians. Especially in the West Bank “Area C”, which is totally under Israeli military control. Azza is standing between the lines. One of his big, black boots is leaning against the wall-painting which shows the landscape of a biblical land. On the left side refugees seem to burn

4 5 HOPE Ltd like flames. equipped with symbols of the It is hard to look beyond Mo- Palestinians. A leaf from an olive haned’s serious eyes that don’t tree, a book, a stone. No father. match the shy smile and the “Everyone in the camps is miss- gaunted shoulders. It’s his latest ing someone”, Azza says and his work: a portrait of the Nakba, the face frowns. “catastrophe”, when Palestinians Palestinian people are proud were forced to leave their homes of their homes. Azza says he Graffiti in 1948. A four-part painting on comes from Beit Jibrin; a town a headhigh wall in the streets of near Hebron that was destroyed Bethlehem, just a stone’s throw in 1948. Azza is only 26 years Mohaned Azza: "Too many stones around us." A Form of Resistance away from the segregation wall old. Now he lives in Al-Azza, a and checkpoint Gilo 300, where refugee camp with 1.700 inhabit- streets of Bethlehem nearly eve- soldiers secure the border to Je- ants in the centre of Bethlehem. ry citizen greets him. And eve- Palestinan symbols on walls undergo change rusalem. On his drawings he puts his sig- rybody doubts his work. “They “I believe, that art can change nature on the lower left side: a think I am wasting four years of n the side of a building close good if more people came to announcements of strikes and the people’s mind”, Azza says small key, the symbol of the ref- my life studying arts”, he says. Oto the entrance of Bethle- see the situation here for them- all other forms of projecting and nervously takes a drag of ugees. Even Azza’s grandmother The unemployement rate of the hem, there is a poignant graffiti: selves. If it is safe enough for a information and ideas. “Young his cigarette. “Everyone is so still carries the key to her old West Bank is at 19 per cent. “It shows the ‘peace” dove car- bunch of sissy artists then it’s men would typically spray paint sad, but we have to deal with the house with her every day, though Still Azza believes in the mo- rying an olive branch in its beak safe enough for anyone.” on the most visible and public situation and continue with our she knows her home has been ment, that’s his message. Yet as - being outfitted with a bullet- Ironic jabs at life in the West surfaces with the aim of reach- lives.” A life, that is depicted di- destroyed. Hope seems to be the everything in Bethlehem even proof vest while a sniper aims Bank via artwork - this is not a ing the largest number of people rectly behind Azza in acryl col- only absolute term in the Middle this seems to be blocked and van- at the bird’s chest. Its creator, new phenomenon: Graffiti in possible.” This was a danger- ours: Early farmers cropping the East conflict. Even the Palestin- ishes like the last part of the Nak- Britain’s most illusive graffiti the Palestinian Territories dates ous activity. “The Israeli mili- harvest, tents in the background. ian president Abu Mazen came ba-painting around the corner: A artist Banksy, is known for his back to the First Intifada in tary forbade it and would often On the next picture sicle and to see Azza’s painting last May refugee camp, grey like the wall, significant social and political 1987. Since then, “graffiti has shoot, arrest or imprison anyone scythe are dangling from the on the 60th commemoration day refugees burning in bright orange commentary. In 2007, he tagged become an integral part of Pal- caught doing it”, Juma explains. branch of a dead tree. It seems of the Nakba. A little attention flames, smashed stones at their his messages in Bethlehem. He estinian nationalism,” states a “And so the act itself became like a rushed walk through time. for a moment. feet. It is in the shadow now, at drew more than a dozen satirical survey prepared by Palestinian symbolic of resistance.” Juma Most of the wall is painted in Nowadays everybody is rush- four o’clock when the sun is al- images painted, plastered and Academic Society for the Study who was an activist himself bright green. “When I give art ing by without having a closer ready hiding behind the wall. The sprayed on the concrete sepa- of International Affairs (PAS- during the First Intifada, says lessons to children”, Azza says, look to what he has painted. His art is only on the surface. ration wall and on the sides of SIA) written back in 1990. that young men would gener- “most of the kids use ‘hot’ col- art is overshadowed by the sepa- buildings around. The artist, 33, Jamal Juma, project direc- ally send someone to scout the ours: red, yellow, orange.” In ration wall, where every life, has rarely been seen and does tor of the “Stop the Wall” cam- area before going to write their Azza’s painting the only weapon every sound is absorbed by the Simon Kremer (23), not give interviews. Some say paign, a Palestinian initiative messages. is a stone, held by a child’s hand, concrete. Gray and massive - and unavailingly searched for sleaze tents in Al- his real name is Robert Banks. that aims towards the cessation “Most Palestinian graffiti a kufiya, the famous scarf of the still a small chance. “Walls are a He has announced through his of the building of the wall and at the time consisted of phrases Palestinians, around his neck. public canvas”, Azza says. “Eve- Azza refugee camp in Bethlehem, but instead PR spokeswoman that he hoped its ultimate dismantling, states and slogans,” Juma explains, The mother covering his head ryone can see my paintings.” found the most deli- his art would “attract tourists to that during the First Intifada, “but there are a number of im- with her hand. His two siblings When he walks through the cious tea of his life. Bethlehem.” And “it would be graffiti served to transmit news, ages that appear repeatedly and

6 7 HOPE Ltd can be seen as key symbols: the tionals and children from the wall and excusing its existence. clenched fist, the V-sign, the Aida refugee camp, we went After much talking and discuss- rifle, the Palestinian flag, the to the main entrance of Beth- ing, I began to see the logic of key, and the map of mandatory lehem and we spent the whole what they were saying.” Azza Broadcasting for Peace Palestine. Each faction used dif- day painting Handala looking now agrees that artists should A group of committed journalists from both sides is running a joint radio station in Jerusalem ferent color spray paint. Hamas at the Mediterranean Sea,” says not draw on the wall: “It is true used the traditional color of Is- 29-year-old Ahmad Azza, a ref- that graffiti draws attention to lam, green, while Fatah used ugee from the village of Jibrin the wall, especially by foreign- The voice of peace resounds from for Peace” is currently facing black. The leftist PFLP, DFLP west of Hebron. He now lives ers and tourists, but when they a hidden backyard somewhere problems in realizing its vision. and the Communist Party most in Azza or Beit Jibrin refugee come and see it, instead of say- in the north of Jerusalem. The As most listeners do not under- floor of the small radio station is stand the language of the other often used red.” camp, the smallest in the West ing ‘Look at this ugly wall’, nearly empty, except for one big one, the team has planned to split During the Second Intifada Bank that is home to over 2,000 they say ‘Look at this beautiful poster on which the slogan “All its channel into one for Hebrew- which erupted in 2000, graf- people. graffiti!’” for Peace” is printed – in Eng- speakers and one for Arabic- fiti did not reappear neither as Handala is the pseudonym He now believes that the wall lish, Hebrew and Arabic. “All for speakers. According to Mr. Raz, a form of resistance nor as a of Naji Al-Ali, the most famous should be left alone, ugly as it Peace” is the name of one of Is- this does not mean the project is way of self-expression. “This Palestinian political cartoonist. is. “We should do nothing to rael’s most daring peace projects: dead: “We are going to continue method was regarded as being Born in 1936, he was originally beautify it.” A radio station in which Israelis exchanging our ideas and dis- no longer necessary or effective from the village of Ash-Shajara. and Palestinians, Jews, Muslims cussing the topics of our shows - especially in rise of print and In 1948, Ash-Shajara was one “It is true that graffiti and Christians are broadcasting in the joint editorial meetings.” Radio also for "the other side": It's "All for Peace". electronic media.” of the 480 Palestinian villages draws attention to the together. “24 hours a day, 7 days “Since the beginning of the people there want peace, as long But since 2002, when Is- destroyed in what Palestinians wall, especially by for- a week, 365 days a year,” em- Second Intifada it has become as the leaders don’t want it, they rael began the construction of refer to as “Al-Nakba” (the Ca- phasizes Mossi Raz, the station’s more difficult to bring Israelis eigners and tourists, will be going nowhere. If there the 1,55 billion dollar project tastrophe). Naji Al-Ali was ten manager. and Palestinians together,” con- is no political solution, all these of separating the West Bank years old when he and his fam- but when they come and “All for Peace” was launched firms Melody Sucharewicz, from projects will stay wishful think- and often cutting through Pal- ily were expelled from Palestine see it, instead of saying in 2004 as a project of the Is- the Peres Center for Peace, the ing.” estinian cities and villages, the to Ein Al-Hilweh refugee camp ‘Look at this ugly wall’, raeli organization Givat Haviva problems of peace work. “On the “Peace cannot be only a docu- separation wall has given rise to in Lebanon. From 1975-1987 (Hill of Haviva) and its Palestin- other hand, many people think ment between leaders, but it must multiple graffiti efforts. he created cartoons that depict they say ‘Look at this ian partner Biladi (Home Coun- that, the more the situation esca- be achieved between people,” ar- In an attempt to create hope, the complexities of the plight beautiful graffiti!’” try). Today, about 90 percent of lates, the more urgent it becomes gues Gershon Baskin, founder of Holy Land Trust (HLT) hosted of Palestinian refugees. These the money to finance the project to work together”. Ms. Suchare- I.P.C.R.I., the Israeli-Palestinian Ahmad Azza an all-day activity of painting cartoons are still relevant today comes from foreign countries like wicz even states that the number Center for Research and Infor- the wall. HLT is a Palestinian and Handala, the refugee child the USA, Belgium or Norway, of participants in their projects mation. “When the Good-Friday- non-profit organization based in who is present in every cartoon mostly from private foundations. is increasing. Each year, several Agreement in Northern-Ireland Seven Israeli and seven Palestin- thousand people are enrolled in Bethlehem which seeks to em- and Al-Ali’s signature, remains was reached in 1998, 40 percent ian journalists, technicians and the about 50 joint activities of- power the community through a potent symbol of the struggle of the Irish were participating in producers run the station. They all fered by the Peres Center for mobilizing its strengths and re- of the Palestinian people for organized joint activities.” The agree on one great aim: “We want Peace, Israel’s most renowned situation in the Holy Land, how- sources in order to address the justice and self-determination. to give our audience the chance to Non-Governmental Organization challenges of the present and “But people criticized us,” Jihan Abdalla (22), while interview- ever, is very different from this. listen to the other side.” Mr. Raz in the field of peace work. “Less than five percent of the Is- the future of Palestinians. “A explains Azza. “People accused ing, has discovered that Palestinian artists hopes to achieve this change of Still, the attitudes on how peace group of 50-60 locals, interna- us of attempting to beautify the have a lot to fight for. raelis and Palestinians are partic- perspective by translating Arabic can be reached vary strongly. ipating in organized joint activi- articles into Hebrew, reporting Bernhard Sabella, a member of ties. When they do not meet, they about other peace initiatives or the Palestinian Legislative Coun- cannot reach out to each other by inviting guests that represent cil (PLC), does not believe that and create new realities.” a moderate political position. Mr. any further peace education is Nadine Grzeszick Raz is convinced that “All for necessary. “The overwhelming Peace” helps promoting peace: majority on both sides already “People may have lost hope, but wants peace.” In his eyes, it is they can regain it if they see that not the people who change some- cooperation is possible.” thing: “Take North and South Despite all the enthusiasm, “All Korea, for example. Even if the

8 9 HOPE Ltd Passing with problems

grin appears on his face. Then Though we are not entering any to the metal gate there are a he prods me, saying: “10.43 Jewish settlement, but driving couple of market stands. Fruits, o’clock. Write it down!” from one Palestinian city to the cosmetics, bread, candies – eve- A small curvy road leads next, the checkpoints are every- rything is offered here. If it were through the immense masses of where. The streets are filled with not for these barbed wire fences sandstones in Wadi Nar. Coming cabs, while there are hardly any around, Huwwarah checkpoint out of the Wadi, the bus slows private cars around. could have the appeal of some- down. A checkpoint. Just a few We arrive in Ramallah around thing in between the forecourt cars are in front of us. Soon we 11.48 a.m. Here we have to of a train station and a market place. Two minibuses later Moham- mad is sitting impatiently in a tiny bakery in Nablus. It is about PASSING 1.22 pm and we have reached our destination. But Moham- mad is not satisfied; he has been looking for Shadi and Shadi was not at home. If Shadi is sick, as WITH someone told him, why come to Nablus? Then, quietly and un- noticed, a small man enters the room. When he stands before two - head - taller Mohammad, they fall into each other’s arms. They start talking quickly in Arabic. At times Shadi reaches Problems out to his friend, clasps on his arm and his big soft eyes radi- Palestinians would like to hair gel, and his blue jeans and his country; the last time he vis- are waiting next to the soldiers. change vehicles since the buses ate. Mohammad also translates avoid traveling through the black cotton jacket suit him just ited Jerusalem, which is no more The bus driver is now face to face do not go the whole way. Then something. He tells me that the West Bank because of the fine. On his way to the bus sta- than 15 minutes away by car, with a young Israeli, who leans our trip continues. The Attara Palestinian Authority has lost checkpoints – but sometimes tion, he stopped every friend he was more than seven years ago. against a thin grey wall. The checkpoint after Birzeit can be control over Nablus. Nearly eve- they cannot. saw, just to tell him where he is Today he - like all Palestinians soldier waits a moment. Frozen easily overlooked. Four soldiers ry day someone is shot here. He going today. Nablus is not more in the West Bank - cannot enter in his position, he finally asks: are stumbling through the grass tells me that Shadi does not feel Mohammad is nervous and can- than 70 kilometres away, but the city without special permis- “Why did you drive up to here?” some hundred metres away and safe here anymore and that he is not hide it. He climbs into the still, this is news. For there are sion. This is also what makes our The driver, who has not waited are making jokes. Mohammad’s thinking about emigrating. And minibus at Bethlehem’s bus sta- at least four checkpoints on the trip more complicated: There is for him to make a sign, quietly brown eyes stick at them: “It he tells me that Shadi’s brother tion, but soon afterwards jumps way up North. You can hardly a way going straight from Beth- admits he did not pay attention. is crazy”, he says. “Sometimes is in Sweden and his mother is out again to run to a shop. He estimate how much time you lehem via Jerusalem to Nablus. The soldier does not move nor you have to wait for hours!” in his eyes “a martyr”. is just about to enter the bus will be spending there. But Mo- But we have to drive around Je- does he raise his voice. His eyes It is neither the watchtower nor We have decided not to go again, but then decides to wait hammad hopes to find out. rusalem on impassable, bumpy are fixed on his counterpart. His the fences that announce Huw- back the same way as we came outside. Just when he lights a 24-year-old Mohammad has roads. Jewish settlers do not look is expressionless. “Where warah checkpoint, but the sea but drive through Jericho, which cigarette, he calms down a lit- only been in Nablus once; that know such problems because are you going?” “To Ramallah.” of yellow cabs and minibuses in lies in the very East. There used tle. Mohammad is traveling to was on a class trip, many years the Israeli government has built A heavy smell of bittersweet in- front of it. No one without a spe- to be a lot of roads leading to Nablus and there he will be see- ago, when there were no walls new fast roads for them. Just for cense lies in the car. “Go on,” cial permission is allowed to en- Jericho. But today, some of ing his friend Shadi. They have and fences and checkpoints and them. says the soldier then, showing ter Nablus by car. So everyone them are partially prohibited for not met for seven years. Since police controls. But nowadays The minibus is now full of no interest. has to get out of the bus, walk Palestinians. We also cannot get it is a special day, Mohammad there are a lot of them, and the people and the driver has started We do not lose much time at through a metal gate and climb out through another checkpoint. has dressed up a little; his short number is increasing. Moham- the engine. Mohammad hastily the next two checkpoints, where into one of the dozens of cars Only Huwwarah is open today. curly hair is neatly styled with mad scarcely travels around in gets in and takes a seat. A big soldiers just glimpse at us. waiting on the other side. Close At 3.20 pm we are back there.

10 11 HOPE Ltd

While coming in was a long line of cars. An easy, coming out is not. army trunk is block- Or, just for some. As ing the way. Moham- NEW GUARDS AT THE a foreigner, I have no mad speaks of a curfew. problems and join the Somewhere in the dark short queue on the right the silhouette of an Israe- CHECKPOINTS side. Here, mostly wom- li soldier appears. He is en with their children barely recognizable. We Private security personnel is replacing Israeli soldiers and elderly people are have to make a detour passing through. People which leads us through Officially, they are there “to diers, security guards are bet- them if they hear any com- who do not arouse much the mountains. But the provide better service” to the ter paid and return home daily. plaints. suspicion. I show my way being extremely Palestinians, as a spokesperson Better conditions for the guards, Sohill, also from East Jerusa- passport to a blond sol- steep, all of a sudden of the Israeli Defense Ministry Spiegel believes, will enhance lem and studying at Bethlehem dier and then have to go the car stands still. No says. For more than two years relations at the checkpoints. University, was once detained at to a white car covered one in the minibus says now private security guards But that is only one side of the the checkpoint for an extra hour, with a tarpaulin that is a word. The cars whose have been replacing Israeli sol- coin. The Palestinians for their just because a guard from “Ari” standing a little aloof. way we are blocking do diers at checkpoints in the West part claim that the treatment security company, responsible There are no soldiers here to he had participated in political not honk. There is nothing but Bank and Gaza. they get from the private securi- for a checkpoint in Bethlehem, give instructions, no one even demonstrations. She did not. silence. The driver waits a mo- watches if the people really put But the fear has settled in him ment. Then he starts the engine. their bags on the conveyer, so and has not left. And then, a It breaks down. The dark sky that they will be scanned. I take few kilometres before Jericho, hangs above us, the mountains my rucksack back and leave the Mohammad has to show his ID enclose us, and there is some- checkpoint. once again, and only him. This thing very peaceful about this But Mohammad is not there time, however, it is a Palestin- moment. Then the driver tries yet. He had to wait in the sec- ian policeman who asks for it again, he kicks down the gas ond queue, along with some it. “They are just looking for pedal with all his power. The en- hundred other people. When someone. They got his ID or his gine gasps and moans, but final- he finally comes out, 15 min- name and are now trying to get ly the minibus starts moving. utes later, Mohammad looks him,” Mohammad explains. The 7.47 p.m. says the watch upon exhausted. He rushes to me fas- policeman looks at a note scrib- our arrival in Bethlehem. After tening his belt. Then he nerv- bled on a slip of paper and then 170 kilometers, 6.30 hours on ously lights another cigarette. hands the ID back. the road and nine minibuses, Mo- “I told the people in the front of It is early in the evening, but hammad and I have reached the the row that my sister is waiting the air in Jericho is still sticky. last checkpoint. No one is here for me and I have to hurry. So I Tourists have left the ancient except three taxi drivers wait- could overtake them. Otherwise city by now. We had better done ing for customers. “Call, when According to Shlomo Dror, the ty guards is much worse than the thought she was laughing at I would have waited for hours!” so too: At 5.10 p.m. Jericho is you have passed it.” I promise Defense Ministry spokesman, treatment they used to get from him. One of the “innovations” he says. practically locked. No minibus to and start walking along the the government wants to reduce the soldiers. Tareq, a student at of private security is a very de- As we drive towards Jericho, drives the 45-kilometer way to dark narrow path surrounded contact between Israeli soldiers Bethlehem University, says that tailed search. Palestinians are the sun sets. Mohammad hardly Bethlehem. Mohammad gets by fences. Mohammad stays be- and Palestinian civilians, be- the guards from private security asked to leave the bus, each of says a word, but only stares out impatient; he talks to a group hind. Exhaling the smoke of his cause Palestinians complain that companies overstep the bound- them is checked intensively and of the window. When we were of bus drivers. Finally, he has cigarette, he watches me going the presence of men and women aries of their duty. The young the bus is searched with dogs, leaving the checkpoint, there found someone who brings us back to the other side. in army uniform at checkpoints man has to cross the checkpoint whereas the soldiers tended to was some kind of fear in his to Azarya, the biblical Bethany, Nadine Grzeszick (21), as a young creates distress. Moreover, Ba- nearly every day, since he lives carry out the search quicker, ac- eyes. Later he explained it: The about three kilometers away European citizen, ruch Spiegel, an advisor to the in Jerusalem. As an example for cording to their impression of is used to borders soldier did not ask many ques- from Jerusalem. From there, we Defense Minister, expects pri- the bad treatment Tareq cites, each individual Palestinian. tions, but she checked upon his have to change buses at least being torn down. It is strange for her seeing vate security guards to be less that the Arabic-speaking Druze The job of a private security ID-number. Mohammad was two more times. them being erected demoralized and embittered guards eavesdrop on their con- guard offers the opportunity to afraid she would find out that In Azarya we are greeted by somewhere else. than soldiers. Compared to sol- versations, harass and hinder make good money. The pay for

12 13 HOPE Ltd Southern Strangle in the North 2800 former mem- bers of the South Lebanese Army are trying to bear their lives in Israel Palestinians waiting at a checkpoint in the West Bank. Weapon of an Israeli soldier. Leaving the train station in the northern Israeli-Jewish city of one hour is between 30 to 60 2006, the Defense Ministry in- Nahariya and in the mood for a Shekels (six to twelve Euros), vested 45 million Israeli Shek- snack, you’ll probably purchase while minimum wage in Israel els in the “Erez” checkpoint your pita with za’atar and la- is 21 Shekels an hour (4,15 Eu- between Israel and Gaza. The baneh from Marwan Kalil. ros). The majority of the appli- new system is planned to allow Marwan’s Lebanese pita, iden- cants have only a high school 60,000 crossings a day. At other tifiable by the Lebanese and Is- education. Mizrachi Jews, Dru- checkpoints, the searching pro- raeli flags posted on the walls ze, Russian and Ethiopian im- cess has been automatized - the of his business, is not randomly Well taken care of in his adopted home country: SLA veteran Kalil. migrants apply for the job main- searched person enters a room located. Rather, Kalil was com- ly due to their inability to find with a one-sided mirror. The pelled to make a new home here ting them in great danger once It seems though, that he’s more a better one. They must have Palestinian is required to take following the Israeli pullout the IDF would no longer be than just satisfied. Kalil, points ganizations, which the private served in the army undergoing out all his belongings, which from South Lebanon back in around to patronize them. The to his forearm, with a smile companies don’t have. Neither at least a five-month-training are examined while he contin- 2000. He was a former member IDF spokespersons’ unit did not forming just beyond his pursed do they have any mechanisms course. Before they start their ues the checking process. All of the South Lebanese security return phone calls regarding this lips, “I have the blood of an Is- which can prevent them from new job they take part in a directions are given through a services, which worked in con- matter. raeli.” This is not too surprising using their power unethically. three-week training, where they loudspeaker, implementing a junction with the South Leba- In light of the hasty Israeli considering that he is one of the In this respect, the privatization are taught the principles of in- strict vocabulary code. nese Army (SLA). withdrawal, approximately 6000 few members of this group still of security at checkpoints is an terpersonal relations, including The lack of personal contact The SLA was founded in the members of the SLA, its security in receipt of such benefits – if attempt to outsource responsi- basic Arabic. The cost of such bothers Palestinians. “Before 1970s, during that country’s services and their families were any. Kalil exists in stark contrast bility. a course for the Ministry of De- the system, you had someone to civil war, as the Free Lebanon relocated to Israel. Now, almost to his lesser-ranking comrades, fense varies between 60,000 to address and not that frightening Army. Set up by an army battal- a decade later, around 2800 of the responsibility over whom 70,000 Shekels (11,800-13,900 mechanical voice,” complains ion commander, the SLA fought them are still living here. About were transferred to Israel’s Min- Euros) for each guard. Mustafah, a Ramallah resident a number of other groups in the 1000 of them remain in Nahari- istry of Immigrant Absorption The dismissive attitude of se- who has a permission to work South but primarily against the ya, comprising the single largest just a year after their arrival. curity guards towards the Pal- in Israel. PLO. This common enemy set community. Such is the case for Kalil’s estinians is not the only cause Meirav Amir from the human the stage for an alliance between As such, Kalil, a former colo- friend, a former SLA soldier of complaint. The private com- rights organisation “Machsom it and the Israel Defense Forces. nel in the SLA security services, who now hangs out at his pita panies also introduced “pro- Watch” says, the fact that the Following the first Lebanon War is well looked after by Israel’s stand. One of the many who fessionalism” and “efficiency” guards refuse to present them- in 1982, the two warring parties Ministry of Defense. He says were transferred from the Min- into the checkpoint system. selves creates an unclear hier- continued to collaborate in fight- that he is well taken care of in istry of Defense’s care, this Some checkpoints nowadays archy at the checkpoints. “You ing their newly emerged enemy, his adopted home country. For "Here we have nothing", Hala Said says. are equipped with non-X-Ray are just thrown around from one the Hezbollah. Consequently, almost a decade, Kalil has been scanners that produce a holo- authority to another in a never While writing this bio, Lily Veselov its members were branded as provided with a salary, apart- gram of the checked person, ending circle.” Previously, the (23) translated the words in her head traitors by the Lebanese gov- ment and pension. The veteran, so that the checking process army had an obligation to co- from her mother-tongue Russian to He- ernment and its citizens – not who served his cause for 15 only takes 20 seconds. During operate with human rights or- brew, and then to English. That isn’t easy. to mention the Hezbollah – put- years, asserts: “I’m satisfied.”

14 15 HOPE Ltd Short Stories Short stories unnamed man, who refused explains that her regular clien- to speak openly, was nervous tele are Lebanese. Israeli-Jews Business as Usual? that anything he offered would have come to her shop but she be traced back to him and his notes, they are not repeat cus- Not all donations meant for Pal- estinian refugees actually reach cousin in Germany putting both tomers, preferring to patronize them: A few are sold in a gro- of them in grave danger, Kalil the salons of their own kind. cery store in Ramallah – for ri- explained. But, he did provide Her complications are further diculous high prices. a constant point of reference for exacerbated since her husband A small grocery store close to a Kalil as an example of the SLA has been unemployed for the crowded market in the center of members who have all been all- past four years. He applied to Ramallah: Couscous is being sold Hala Said owns a hair salon. but-forgotten by both the Israeli work as a guard at a local old- here, chick peas and spicy roasted government and the country’s age home, but when asked about citizenship, sort of.”) but also as sunflower seeds. But somewhere populace-at-large. his military service (a standard on the shelves a few silver packs a Christian. Kalil is the exception. In Is- question at Israeli job inter- stick out: “Not for sale” it says Said worships at the SLA rael, he is a well-received out- views), he informed them of his on them in large blue letters. It church in Acre. It was estab- sider. His perpetual smirk, the experience in the SLA – and was is whole milk, donated by the lished there because the church success of his business (hungry not hired. French government as part of the already existed and was avail- travelers who seemed to know “What can I tell you,” she The Poor Life of aid given to Palestinians by the able for rent. Establishing such him well were constantly stop- says, in a constant, nervous re- United Nations Relief and Works an institution in Nahariya seems ping by) and that his stand is frain. “We haven’t progressed Agency for Palestine Refugees a moot point, her face overtaken in the Near East (UNRWA). Six the central point for many of the in our lives but regressed eight with skepticism at the suggestion Abu Faiz packages stand on the shelf, a few station’s workers (regardless of years,” she says of her family’s that a church be established in more are packed in boxes behind their religious identity – Jewish, time since its relocation. Abu Faiz has been living here for ages. “Here” would be a de- an Israeli-Jewish city. A church, the counter. They are sold for 25 Druze or Christian), all indicate Like Kalil’s friend, Said and serted landstrip next to Wadi Qelt filled with bricks, stones and she explains, is anathema to any Israeli Shekels (about five Euros) that his life is a happy one. her family were transferred to plastic cans. Within eyeshot there is a Jewish settlement, nicely conceivable development with- each. But, in Israel, Kalil has no fear. the Ministry of Immigration and built up houses, security fences holding them together. Abu Faiz in the boundaries of their local “Some women came to me and Were he to return to Lebanon, Absorption. “But we’re not Rus- is a Bedouin. He lives together with his four brothers, their wives community. gave these to me in exchange for his life would be in danger. To sians,” she exerts. “We’re a dif- and children in a couple of tents located in the Wadi. Here, Said is subject to major- goods from my store”, claims the illustrate his point, he wraps his ferent story.” A reference to her “Dealing with the settlers is not easy”, Abu Faiz says. Often owner, a slim man with a white ity rule, as is Kalil. Members of hands around his neck, saying Arab-Christian roots, a distinct they come down from the settlement and start beating him and mustache. Behind him on the wall, the church are compelled to wor- this is the fate that awaits him in departure from the average Jew- his family. Calling the police does not help: The responsible po- Saddam Hussein smiles down ship on Saturday. Taking Sunday his homeland. ish immigrant that this ministry liceman is just another settler. “Why should he help me?”, asks from a poster. “It is all about ex- off from the Israeli workweek is Not far away, Hala Said is liv- cares for. Abu Faiz. So instead of resisting, he usually stays mum. “I do change, that’s how it goes.” Chris simply not an option. The cul- ing a decidedly difficult exis- Originally, she had hoped to have the responsibility for a big family”, he says. “They don’t Gunness, speaker of the UNRWA, tural pressure to congregate on tence. Her hair salon, which she take advantage of the German need me to be in jail”. calls this “a matter of regret”. the dominant Sabbath prevails. has run and managed for the past decision to absorb 250 SLA Abu Faiz’s most important income is tourism. Groups of sight- “But these things happen. We give To demonstrate the current things like the milk powder to two years, is closing its doors families back in 2000. But, seers come every ten minutes to a viewpoint nearby. His kids foreboding situation of her fam- the most needy, but of course we the coming weekend. “Here we she says, her husband wanted then ride out with their donkeys and the camel to earn some ily in Israel, Said wraps her don’t go to their houses, mix the have nothing, and we struggle,” to move to America. “So, we Shekels by giving the tourists a ride. What they are not going to hands around her neck. powder with water and feed it to she says. Said came to Israel missed the opportunity. Germa- see are the tents and poverty Abu Faiz’s family live in. the children. We cannot fully con- with her husband, a former SLA ny would have been good,” she “We won’t get any help from the government authorities”, trol, where our donations go.” member, though she refuses to says. Now, she awaits help from he says. Sure there are international aid shipments, but the Christina Horsten divulge any further information wherever it comes. Ari Miller (32), discovered that the Bedouins in Palestine don’t see any of them. Abu Faiz shrugs his North of Israel is as beautiful as it is about him. Her family arrived Her situation is not just the tragic. Not unlike Je- shoulders: “Palestinians, they hate us even more than the Jew- with their two daughters. Since result of her economic situation rusalem, it’s a lovely ish.” Some months ago there had been an election campaign in their relocation she has since but also her religious-social one. place to visit but not to the nearby village of Taybeh. One candidate competed with the born a third daughter. Israel is also a difficult place to live. For that, it seems, promise to get rid of all Bedouins. “Luckily”, says Abu Faiz, “he She has always been a hair- exist, not just as an Arab (SLA Tel Aviv continues to didn’t win.” provide adequate pa- dresser but is finding it difficult members were granted citizen- rameters for his cur- Marc Röhlig to make a go of it in Israel. She ship, but, Said says, “We’ve got rent existence.

Sold in grocery stores for ridiculous high 16 prices: Donations meant for refugees. 17 HOPE Ltd Between truth and death

cameraman Fadel Shanaa was would pass for journalists.” No killed by an Israeli tank in the system is foolproof, he admits. Between Truth and Death Gaza Strip in April 2008. Also “There were no cases of inten- four other journalists have been tional targeting of journalists. T killed by soldiers of the Israel In fact, when you consider the argeting the messenger – journalists put their Defence Forces (IDF) in the number of journalists wounded past ten years. “This figure may or killed over the years in the lives in danger to show the reality be derisory compared to the West Bank and Gaza, you will number of civilians killed in find out that this number is ex- Many journalists have lost their to keep on raising awareness tinian factions that do not hesi- the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, traordinarily low in comparison lives over the past 60 years about the special status held by tate to target media that criticis- but it is nonetheless worrying in with other zones of conflict and during the Palestinian-Israeli journalists.” es them,” says Smouni. terms of the impunity enjoyed war around the world.” Dangerous work: A journalist doing his job conflict. “Reporters without Reality shows that this is often BBC journalist Alan John- by Israeli soldiers who are re- In Gaza, threats to Palestin- in the West Bank. borders”, a Non-Governmental not more than wishful thinking. ston was kidnapped in March sponsible for these deaths”, says ian journalists to censor them- Organisation with its main of- “Palestinian and foreign jour- 2007 by a group of Palestinian Hajar Smouni. selves are mounting since Ha- rubber bullets during an Israeli Israeli Foreign Ministry mas seized power, says Smouni. army operation in Ramallah. spokesman Yigal Palmor says Palestinian journalists from ri- “Usually I do as much as I can the Israeli army tries hard not val camps Fatah and Hamas of- to protect myself by taking the to harm journalists because that ten clash with each other while protective gear such as helmet would be against its ethics and covering violence in the Gaza and flak jacket, gas mask, read- would weaken the army’s real Strip. Hamas security forces ing the field I am working in, mission of fighting enemy com- have ransacked offices of the taking up a good and safer posi- batants as well as causing huge WAFA news agency after Ha- tion in the event.” Veteran CNN damage to the army’s image. mas accused the organisation of correspondent Ben Wedeman, According to him, every effort being pro-Fatah. who has been working in con- is made to distinguish com- About 100 Hamas security of- flict areas since the early 1990s, batants from non-combatants. ficers stormed the office of the also strongly advises journalists “However, in a situation of bat- Palestine Broadcasting Corpo- not to neglect caution. “When I tle, or during live fire engage- ration in the southern Gaza Strip prepare to go into a conflict area ments, mistakes can happen due in June 2007, destroying equip- I read a lot about the conflict, and to terrain conditions, atmos- ment and attacking people. In try to put together many phone pheric conditions and technical addition to that, according to numbers of people – journalists, failures in judgment under high Reporters Without Borders, diplomats, NGO staff – who are stress.” Every such incident, at least ten foreign journalists or were there and then speak to Palmor states, is investigated were kidnapped and harassed them to get a clear idea of the and soldiers can be put to court in Gaza in the last two years. In situation there.” Wedeman has if wrongdoing is discovered. most cases of kidnapping, how- learned from many experiences. “The immediate example that ever, the motive was probably “As time went by I am much comes to mind is that of James not political but an attempt by more cautious.” Miller, a British photographer individuals or isolated groups to killed in Gaza in 2003. Israel gain publicity, money or some- Cameraman Fadel Shanaa (23) was killed by a tank shell in the Gaza Strip. paid 1.5 million pounds to the times jobs. fice in Paris, is working steadily nalists working in the Palestin- militants. Israeli freelancer Is- family.” But no matter how many legal to improve the safety of jour- ian Territories are exposed to rael Puterman says that he was There are very strict military measures are taken to protect Nidal Bulbul (23), is a cameraman nalists. “Journalists are neutral two different kinds of threats: physically injured four times in operating procedures that ensure them, reporters covering con- from Gaza. He lost a leg while covering witnesses,” says Hajar Smouni one from the Israeli army, the last two years. “I was shot the safety of identifiable jour- flict areas must be prepared for a funeral of nine Pal- of the North Africa and Middle which has been responsible for in the leg with a rubber-coated nalists, Palmor says. But “the danger and must make special estinians in December preparations. Fadi Arouri, 26, a 2007. He is currently East desk, “they are to be con- many acts of violence against bullet and a couple of months instructions are not made public residing in Jerusalem sidered civilians, in accordance the press since 2000, and more ago I was beaten up by a group not to allow possible manipula- Palestinian journalist working and works for Reuters. with international law. We have recently from the various Pales- of border policemen.” Reuters tions by armed elements who with Reuters, was hit by two

18 19 HOPE Ltd Enemy next door

“All of the Old City is supposed organizations in purchasing glasses and looking at the peo- house via an intermediary. “The to be Jewish”, says the voice houses in the Old City. The first ple rushing by. The 57-year- old protection is necessary”, says with a little crackle in it. It is Jewish family has been “re- was born and raised in the Old Louria from Ateret Cohanim. The Enemy an Intercom speaking, next to turned” by Ateret Cohanim 30 City, got his shop from his par- Often Muslims get beaten up a massive door with a painted years ago. By now, according to ents and one day will give it to for selling their home to a Jew. Star of David on it. The Inter- the organization, from the 4000 his “over a hundred children”. Louria remembers a vendor who com-voice belongs to 26-year- Jews living in the Old City, There is only one thing that was shot after the deal – “seven old Zani, law student at the He- nearly a fourth of them resettled makes Ibrahim become furious: times in the head”. Next Door brew University in Jerusalem. in the Muslim and Christian Jewish neighbours. So when buying a house in the And part time security guard in quarters. Or in the “Old Jew- “Living next door to them”, Muslim Quarter, the organiza- Jews and Muslims are arguing about ownership of the Old City. ish Quarters”, as Dan Louria is he says, “to me it means jahan- tion doesn’t just pay for bricks the Old City. Now Jewish settler organizations are Zani – hiding himself and his calling the area. nam”. And then Ibrahim starts; and stones, but also for life pro- buying more and more houses. real name behind the Intercom – He is spokesman for Ateret he is telling stories about Jewish tection of both consumer and is in charge of security for three Cohanim and does not believe boys with bad manners, noisy vendor. By that, a normal flat in flats at a narrow alley right next in walls: “A neighborhood be- parties all night long and tough the Muslim Quarter costs 3,000 to famous Via Dolorosa. The tween Jews and Muslims is not security guards. “It is fighting to 4,500 US-Dollar a square families living inside are ortho- based on perfect love, but sure and arguing all day”, concludes meter. Whole houses go into the dox Jews, “ideologists”, as Zani it can be based on a peaceful Ibrahim. Jahannam is calls them. And those ideolo- coexistence”. Therefore the Old the Arabic word for gists are claiming their rights: City needed a “Jewish sover- hell. To get back the whole Old City eign body” to control not only As the Jews stick to of Jerusalem. the Jewish Quarter but all parts the Old City because As the city centre is divided of the holy city ground, says of historical issues, the into four quarters – the Jewish, Lauria. “Only a moron can be- trader has the same an- Muslim, Armenian and Chris- lieve that a divided solution will swer: the Muslim have tian one – there just does not lead to peace.” their rights to live on seem to be enough space for Till that day, “peace” is made the holy ground, they peaceful coexistence. Jewish by Zani and other guards in the had it since ages. “His- settler organizations are con- Old City. Right next to the door tory never changes”, stantly buying houses at high Zani is protecting, the Muslim says Ibrahim, “what be- Annoyed: Shop owner Ibrahim Shawish. prices to gain more living space neighbours started dumping longed to me, belongs in the Christian and Muslim their garbage. By the end of the to me”. His deep drag from a millions. quarters. The settling action is day, there will be a mattress, cigarette is filmed by the securi- Ibrahim Shawish, taking anoth- now slightly changing the look some bottles and a small heap ty camera above Ibrahim’s shop. er puff of his cigarette, is look- of the Muslim Quarter: Israeli of smelly left-overs. Zani got A Jewish student just passes by, ing down at the crowded alley. flags are hanging right next to used to this. But it takes only guarded by two private security “There is no price for the Old mosques, heavily secured flats seconds for the Intercom-voice men. “One life for two men”, City”, he says, “one can’t buy are built up on Palestinian hous- to lose patience: “They bomb Ibrahim continues, “that will peace”. Zani, the security man es and cameras are scanning the our buses, they kill our children never work.” from next door, probably has area. After Israel got control of – but we are still tolerant”. The Jewish house next to Ibra- the same view from his camera the Old City in 1967’s Six-day- “They”, that would be Ibrahim him Shawish had been sold “to right now. “We want peace”, war, settlers began to seize more Shawish and other Muslims liv- a guy from London – and not he said before on the Inter- and more room from the Mus- ing in the neighbourhood. Ibra- to our enemy”. But now it’s the com. “And we want our houses lims – “stone by stone, house by him has a shop right next to the “enemy” who entered. When back.” house” as it is written on Ateret Jewish flats Zani is protecting. buying houses, Ateret Cohanim Finding his way through the Old City, Cohanim’s homepage. When the small lane is crowded and other organzations often Marc Röhlig (22), Ateret Cohanim (“Crown of on a Friday after the Muslim proceed the same way: They learned above all one the Priests”), itself situated near prayer, you can find Ibrahim handle out several contracts thing: Hospitality is Damascus Gate in the Muslim sitting at ease on a plastic chair with the Muslim vendor, film not to be found behind Quarter, is one of the leading between his goods, baskets and the deal on tape, then buy the every door. Mosque next to a house owned by Israeli settlers in the Old City. 20 21 HOPE Ltd Short Stories

Rent-a-Cross The Top-Sellers

A day doesn’t pass that Muhammad Jesus’ footsteps are battered into the “History is Enslaved for a Purpose” is not here on Salah ad-Din Street, Via Dolorosa that winds up the hill “Historia Meshuabedet”; En- close to Damascus Gate in Jerusa- from Jerusalem’s Stephen’s Gate to slaved History: This is the lem. Muhammad Salima, a 17-year- the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. provocative title of a scientific old Palestinian, sells sweets at a lit- Millions of pilgrims have walked tle stand. Seven days a week, even research that has just been pub- along the “Way of the Cross”. Some on Ramadan, he works here from lished by the Mofet Institute. of them carrying a cross themselves The Black eight in the morning till eight in the For this study, Arie Kizel, a - borrowed at the Church of Flagel- evening. lecturer at Oranim Academic lation by Mazin Kanaan. He owns Phenomenon On that day, one month left to 54 crosses made of olive wood from College, analyzed history books Christmas, there is one sweet selling Jerusalem and Bethlehem, which he This sweet black beverage is a phe- and curriculums published in better then the rest: Santa Clauses. keeps hidden in a five-by-five-foot nomenon in the Middle East: Israe- Israel between 1948 and 2004. “They are really a good gift for the room opposite the fifth station of the lis can have a sip of Coca-Cola and Christians living here”, says Mu- Carmen Reichert asked Arie crossroad. “Some people don’t like feel very Israeli. Palestinians can hammad. Big parts of his shelves are Kizel about the results of his re- my business”, Kanaan says and re- drink the same beverage to support filled with chocolate Santa Clauses search and his ideal for present- fers to himself as a manager of a tra- Palestinian economy. There are two – and chocolate Easter bunnies, as ing history. ditional family business. “Some spit privately owned companies market- well, even though Easter is only in at them when I offered them along ing the well-known soft-drink in the a few months. “I take the cheapest the Via Dolorosa before.” Groups region. Both received the exclusive You present the results of your stuff from the vender, too”, tells Mu- and singles can ask for a cross at the license for Coca-Cola products – research on Israeli publications hammad, “so if bunnies are cheap by Israeli history book entitled “Fall of Berlin”. first station. Crosses vary in length either in Israel or in the Palestinian now, I go to buy and re-buy them”. on general history in a book and weight: from 90 cm up to two Autonomy. The Israeli Central Bot- People usually grab the biggest called “Historia Meshuabedet” during the 80s, we find a lot of and a half metres and from 25 to tling Company, which was founded Germany after 1945 – and they bunnies, but Muhammad knows (Enslaved History). Is the con- 100 kg. “The German and the Polish 1968 in Bnei Brak, and which is hardly ever present Germany af- criticism about Stalin. The last better: The small ones are tastier. “I cept of “enslaved history” an Catholics”, Kanaan says, “they well known for its modern technol- ter the unification. If we would generation of books is more know every type of flavour”, he says. mostly carry the heavier crosses. Ko- ogy, offers kosher Coke: “It is very issue specific to Israel? open-minded, also more color- And so, when bringing some choco- be fair with history, we should reans and Italians the lighter ones.” important to have a kosher Coke. late home from work, Muhammad also teach what happened after ful and didactic. You won’t find But there is less and less business, A significant percentage of Israeli Salima always takes a small golden the Holocaust. We should give quotations saying that Germans he complains. He is happy, when consumers only purchase products Easter bunny. He has seven sisters our students a wider vision on are cruel and the Jewish resis- he rents three or four crosses a day, which have been certified as ko- sher”, says Paul Solomon, spokes- and four brothers waiting for him. world history. When young Is- tance to the Holocaust plays a some more, most less: at a price be- Marc Röhlig tween 30 and 40 US-Dollars. Then man of Coca-Cola Israel. According raelis travel to the East or Ja- less important role. prilgrims carry the cross along the to the ranking of the Israeli business pan today, the history of that fourteen stations of the Via Dolorosa information company “Dun´s 100” region should not stop in 1945 Do you think that the results of the Israelis rank sixth worldwide in up to the site of Jesus’ crucification for them. your research will help to create where Mazin Kanaan picks them up coke consumption per capita. a new way of writing history? again, up to five at a time. The Palestinian National Bever- Simon Kremer age Company, which got rights to Do you observe any develop- the Coke franchise after the Oslo ments in the way history books I am not so optimistic. The agreement, “is proud to promote are written in Israel over the books are a result of the cur- the Name of Palestine and the ca- It is a general problem that his- years? riculum taught in school. What pacity of the Palestinian people,” tory is enslaved for a purpose. It as is proclaimed on the company’s is specific to Israel that the ma- we need is a new curriculum homepage. In addition to offering We can distinguish two to three that also presents general his- jority of books on general histo- generations of books. The first halal-Coke and two-liter bottles for ry refer all subjects to the ques- tory, re-examining details and large families, the Palestinian chap- generation under the direct in- subjects and presenting new ar- tion of whether a historical fact fluence of the Holocaust tends ter of Coca-Cola supports “social eas. I would prefer that students responsibility projects”, such as was good for the Jews or not. to point the resistance of the study the history of ideas, such scholarships for poorer students and Especially the Zionist narrative Jews to the German people. as feminism, and that they learn sponsorship of cultural events. How influenced the way to teach his- The Germans are presented as convenient for the marketing depart- tory. To give an example: Most being cruel and mean, whereas about encouraging examples. ment: Coca-Cola red goes perfectly Israeli books on German history the Russians are the good peo- But up to now, history is mainly with the red of the Palestinian flag. draw only a bit of attention on a political area. Judith Kubitscheck ple. That perspective changes

22 HOPE Ltd

by that photo that she does not man”, she says, “but he was sleep during the night – it is the somehow always looking up “Jeckes” at Their Roots first time that she has seen such to Germany. ‘Ach, in Germany a photo. Still, the fact that the that wouldn’t be possible’, he Photo: iStockphoto Germans of the second genera- kept saying, when something tion after the Shoah do not know went wrong. For him, Germa- their history does not make Mira ny was how a state and society angry. “My mother didn’t teach should be.” me any anger or hate. We put our As a historian, she is wonder- energy to rebuild the country – ing about the fact that especially Mira Lapidot, daughter of a German Jew, not to hate.” What she still feels German Jews kept that strong never felt a conflict about loving Germany is fear – she cannot imagine that relationship to their culture of the Jewish nation would persist origin. “German Jews were in without the state of Israel. general descendents from high- Is Shirah Perry German? “No, er classes in society”, she tries I am not”. She laughs. “Humor- to explain, “they were well in- istically I say that. But I am not.” tegrated into a strong culture, For her, the 30-year-old grand- and they kept it”. She explains daughter of German Jews now her interest for Germany in two living in Tel Aviv, “the only way ways: On the one hand, it con- to handle it is being cynical”. nected her to her father. On the “It” refers to the Shoah. Her other hand, it was an intellectual

Shira Perry still feels connected to the country grandparents could only sur- approach as a historian. Descendents of German Jews maintain a strong relationship with the country of their origin of her grandparents vive by leaving their home and For her grandparents’ and par- the home of their ancestors for ents’ generation, she sees the “Jeckes”, the term denominat- Israelis want to go back to Ger- She is sitting at the long, el- that she suddenly starts to miss a country that had hardly started Shoah as a “trauma”. For her ing a Jew of German origin, many – for vacation, but also for egant table in her living room also her German culture and lan- to built up agriculture. When she own generation she would call is in Israel a swear word and a studying. According to numbers and drinking tea. Lapidot is guage. That is why she decides went to Berlin three years ago to it a “complex”. Whenever she decoration at the same time. Is- of a poll of the German Aca- turning the golden ring on her not only to join her husband to study abroad a university teach- goes to Germany, it is “an emo- raelis of other origin say it with demic Exchange Association finger while she is talking, but a work-related trip to Germany er asked the class what Nazi ide- tional rollercoaster” for her: “To a mocking smile to expose the DAAD, more than 1304 Israe- her dark eyes are calm and she in the 1980s, but to stay one ology meant, nobody answered. stand in a place where people “Germanness” of one’s behav- lis went to study in Germany is smiling. She is searching for week longer on her own. For Shirah raised the hand and said: thought that I was not worth liv- ior – but Jeckes themselves use in 2007. There might be a lot words in English to explain her husband, an officer in the Is- “Sie sagt, dass ich eine große ing”. At the same time, she felt it with a certain pride in their more – those who have a Ger- that connection to her mother’s raeli army, the fact of being in- Nase habe” - it means, that I that “this is where you come culture. “Jeckes are seen to be man passport do not appear on culture and language, her own vited by the Canadian Division have a big nose. “Germans be- from”. There were moments, disciplined and not flexible”, the statistics. Whoever has a mother-tongue that she still un- in Schwarzwald is the only way come green when you tell jokes when she wanted to run away – explains Carmit Fischer from German parent or is descendent derstands, but that she cannot to come to Germany. When they about the Holocaust”, she says, for example, when she suddenly the Association of Israelis of from Jews who lost their citizen- speak anymore. “The children arrive, Mira is overwhelmed by laughs, and knots up her blond heard a Hitleresque voice on a Central European Origin. “But ship and were expatriated in the in our Kibbutz made fun of us”, the beauty of the wood in snowy hair. “And I like to bring it up, radio program. Nevertheless, it also has positive connota- 1930s has the right to acquire the she explains, “because we were woods. Her husband cannot when I am with Germans. I need she could imagine living in Ger- tions, such as that the person German citizenship. For these different.” One day, she went look at it without thinking of the to bring it up”. many – maybe even forever. “I is very organized and knows Israelis, in the second genera- on the streets, and that sentence death marches. Still, she “can’t wait to go could even marry a guy whose how to work.” In former days, tion as well as in the third, the slipped out of her mouth: “On- Years later, when Mira and to Germany”. She had always grandparents were Nazis”. she says, Israelis used the term relation to Germany lives on: a kel, wie spät?” The children her husband participate in an been interested in the German more as a negative nickname – relation full of struggle, pain, laughed at her, and from that international military meeting culture, language and history – Carmen Reichert whereas nowadays Jeckes call and – love. day on, she stopped speaking and present the history of the even more, since her father died. (23), loves the Israeli themselves as such. “I have never stopped being German, although her mother Israeli army to the other partici- He was already born in Tel Aviv airport security and feels More than 60 years after their German”, Mira Lapidot says, a and her new husband only spoke loved by them: They pants, they show one picture of in 1936, but his mother-tongue made her date honey fly families saw themselves forced 65-year-old daughter of a Ger- German at home. a concentration camp. A Ger- was German. “I don’t think that explosion-proof twice in to leave Germany, many young man mother and an Iraqi father. It is after her mother’s death man officer’s wife is so shocked my father saw himself as a Ger- three months.

24 25 HOPE Ltd

mine was a Wehrmacht soldier. While we were living in Berlin”, Stuck in the Middle she recalls, “an old lady told me to start saving money for their Two German women have “married” the Israeli-Palestinian conflict psychological therapy.” “Nora Samet’s neighbours in Nora Samet and Marlene Sha’wan for her part would doesn’t have the time for social Berlin, besides the German lady, Sha’wan are both from Germa- love to take her children to a bus visits in the afternoons, a tradi- were a Palestinian-German fam- ny. One is living in Israel, the ride in Jerusalem, but she can’t. tional local habit. ily. “Their kids looked after our other one in a Palestinian town. Her children are not allowed to Generally, she says it’s hard own children”, she says, “but They married the Israeli-Pales- enter Israel without a special for her to explain to people what their father refused to talk with tinian conflict, each one on a dif- permit. She says that most of all she is doing all day at work - not my husband. There my husband ferent side, ten kilometer away they would like to see a movie because of the language barrier, started to understand what I feel from the other. Nora Samet (34) and go shopping and adds that she is fluent in Arabic. It’s just like in Israel.” The feeling of lives with her Israeli husband her family is tired of the fourty a different mentality, she says. victimhood is strong on both the and three children in the Jew- square Palestinian kilometers On her daily life she tries not to Israeli and the Palestinian side, ish part of Jerusalem, Marlene they can move freely in. Leav- think about it too much and fo- she says. “Many times here it Sha’wan (44) with her Palestin- ing them requires an Israeli per- cus on her job. feels like it’s either me or you.” ian husband and four children mit which is hard to get. Samet, on the other hand, In Beit Jala people are most in the neighboring Palestinian Both don’t feel that they are thinks a lot about her life in Is- concerned with what happens town of Beit Jala. part of the society they live in. rael, especially on her annual today. During the Second In- Samet doesn’t ride buses in Even after sixteen years in the visits to Germany. “How can tifada, Sha’wan recalls, “the Israel, she is afraid. When she Christian town of Beit Jala, “I I live there,” she asks herself bullets were flying in front of “How can I live here? It’s crazy, it’s racist and it’s violent”. Nora Samet used to ride them she always still feel foreign here”, Sha’wan only four years after moving to our windows. Many times the with her new born baby in their home in the German Colony in Jerusalem. asked herself, while looking at says. She doesn’t have a normal the country permanently. “It’s house used to shake.” Besides all the passengers, who will be life by the standards of the soci- crazy, it’s racist and it’s violent. the problems caused by Israel, German churches for financial walking in the path of God, as the next one to blow himself up ety she lives in. She is too busy Many times I ask myself if I she is mostly worried about in- support for their children center. she describes it. “Maybe it’s my and take the rest of the bus with working in the child center she can live here only if I close my ner Palestinian problems. Being “Everyone likes and supports secret of living here”, she adds. him. She doesn’t “enjoy sitting opened together with her hus- eyes and live inside four walls”, less than two percent of the Pal- only Israel”, she says. Samet, Samet says “I can’t lose my in cafés as I liked to in Berlin”, band. “I don’t live the type of she continues. She has a lot of estinian society, she says that as on the other hand, says that in hope because you can’t live here and adds that in Israel people life that the Palestinians are liv- criticism on Israeli society and believing Christians they feel the Israeli society there is a feel- without one.” She likes living in have a basic existential fear. ing”, she says and adds that she policy, especially towards the closer to the Jews than to the ing that Germany is supporting Israel and thinks that it’s still a Palestinians, but as a German Muslims. She has fear regard- the Palestinian side. “When I’m better place for her six-month living in the Jewish state, her ing the future Palestinian state around Germans”, she adds, “I old son to grow up in; neverthe- personal problems occupy most and most of all regarding the try to present the fear and trau- less, she doesn’t give up the op- of her time. way Christians will be treated ma of the Israeli society.” tion of going back to Germany On the last Holocaust Memo- in it. “As for us”, she says, “if The ongoing conflict had one day. “It’s like a back door rial Day her daughters came the country will be established made many, from both socie- that we leave open”, she says, home to tell her that several it will be harder than today.” ties, lose their hope. The recent “If everything here is going to kids from their school called She marks that because there deterioration of the economical explode.” them Nazis. “The victimhood are many Christians in the area situation that is being felt both of the Holocaust is very strong of Beit Jala, they have no prob- in Jerusalem and in Beit Jala here”, Nora Samet explains. “I lems with their Muslim neigh- only strengthens these feelings. can’t be angry at a child that bors, “but in other places where Clinging to her strong Chris- says something like that”. For Christians are a small minor- tian belief, Sha’wan says that During the research her children it’s very difficult to ity it’s much harder”, she con- not even once had she thought Sagi Rotfogel (26) found out that by know- live in peace with their Israeli cludes. Sha’wan also remem- about leaving Beit Jala and go- and German narratives. “Their ing only German bers that in the beginning it was ing back to Germany. She tries you can get along quite Marlene Sha’wan - in the photo with her husband and her eldest daughter - still grandfather is a Holocaust sur- also difficult for them, as Pal- not to think too much about the well in Jerusalem. feels foreign in Beit Jala. vivor”, she continues, “and estinians, when they asked the future and to concentrate on

26 27 HOPE Ltd

In Ramallah, half an hour joint waste management author- Sonderhoff. “This will take at away, Friedrich Sonderhoff ities in Gaza. Due to shortages least another 20 years”, he says: wants to get rid of those local of fuel, especially during the “But we can’t introduce a sys- Who Cares About dumpsites. As a technical advi- Second Intifada, the Palestinian tem Palestinian people don’t sor of the German Development uprising against the occupation want”. Service (DED) it is his daunting between 2000 and 2005, waste Taybeh was the second village Getting rid of task to turn German tax money covered the streets, attracted rats where inhabitants refused to into peace. He is sure that solid and spread illnesses. As long as host a sanitary landfill. Now of- garbage is a waste management will im- no one can assure him that this ficials and development work- Rubbish? prove the quality of living in the would not happen again Zayed ers plan to build it in Ramun. big problem in Palestinian Territories. Instead doesn’t want a regional landfill When David Khoury drives his of dumpsites, he wants regional in Taybeh. old black Mercedes through the the Palestinian sanitary landfills where sand and “No one can guarantee that streets of his village he can look clay protect the ground water there won’t be a shortage of oil over to Ramun, it’s only three Territories from being polluted and waste again”, admits Markus Lücke kilometers south of Taybeh. He is recycled instead of burned. from GTZ. He was involved in wonders if the people there care Mayor David Khoury drives This sounds like a good prop- the waste management projects about rubbish. his old black Mercedes slowly osition to Khoury. When DED in Gaza. Nevertheless, he sees through the little village. He arranged a delegation to a model no alternative to a stable waste passes gnarly olive trees and sanitary landfill in Be’er Sheva management for the Palestinian A dumpsite in the West Bank rough ancient houses. He keeps in Israel, many of his Palestin- Territories. In Jenin, a sanitary the window open so he may ian colleagues objected but he landfill already processes the easily reply to greetings. On his went. They made compost, had waste of the northern West Bank way to the municipality he has a garden, a zoo and a generation for over a year now. The German to stop a few times. The peo- station. “I was impressed”, he government has pledged ten ple of Taybeh tend to ask him admits “I wanted this for Tay- million Euros for the upcoming directly when they have some- beh too.” Khoury expected the Palestinian landfill project. The thing on their minds. sanitary landfill to bring jobs problem is finding a location to David Khoury is proud of his and money. accommodate the landfill. antique Palestinian village. His But not everyone liked this “We have a lack of public slogan as a mayor is “Good life plan. Taybeh’s Doctor Zeyad awareness” says Malvena Al- for good people”. Since he was Zayed didn’t want his village Jamal, chief engineer of Ramal- elected in 2005 he took care that to become the dumpsite of the lah. Although Ramallah is the streets were repaved and street- region. He was afraid the cases richest city in the West Bank, lights were installed in the dark of cancer and asthma could in- only 23 percent of its residents alleys. But one concern almost crease. Some other inhabitants pay a tax towards waste col- cost David Canaan Khoury his thought alike. They launched lection. Many don’t even know office: Rubbish. an action group against the new they are supposed to. “We can- The rubbish of Taybeh’s 1300 landfill and if David Khoury not punish the people”, says Al- inhabitants is burned, like eve- had not given in, he would have Jamal. Ramallah lacks central Waste collector in Ramallah rywhere in the West Bank. The lost his office. municipal coordination. The dumpsite is situated right next Zayed is skeptical if a system municipality tries to fund waste Fanny Weiß (29), to the olive trees Taybeh is fa- that works in Israel will work collection by diverting taxes felt privileged being mous for. Plastic bottles, veg- out in the West Bank as well. received from construction per- German, for the first time. It was a strange etable peels, metal cans journey “What if the political situation mits. experience to be al- from a big dusty garbage truck crashes down again?”, he says. The establishment of function- lowed to go everywhere to the top of a big pile of rub- In the 1990s German develop- ing institutions and raising pub- just because she had the right passport. bish. When rubbish is burned in ment worker of DED and the lic awareness are the two major Standing in line at the checkpoint made the evening, bitter fume lingers German state-owned Technical challenges facing the German her remember her childhood in GDR and encouraged her not to believe in walls. in the air. Cooperation GTZ built up two development worker Friedrich

28 29 HOPE Ltd What How I Became a PALESTINIAN My family came to Israel 150 years ago, long before Jewish people around the world even 11 am I? 88 considered the idea of estab- lishing a Jewish state. Since they came from Arab countries, Guess what religion I look like a Palestinian. Even though, my identity was always and nationality the clear to me: I am an Israeli. people in the When I decided to write an ar- pictures have ticle about Palestinian football, 22 99 it was obvious I would have to go to the Palestinian Territories to watch some games. There are three different areas in the West Bank. The C territories the beginning of the match, so was Palestinian, and didn’t even are under complete Israeli con- I went through the checkpoint. know about it. trol. The B territories are under On my way to the stadium I re- However, pretty soon I got Israeli security contol and Pal- alized Kalandia checkpoint is in a reminder about my national- 33 1010 estinian administrative control. A territory. I defintely can’t go ity. The next night the partici- 77 The entrance of Israeli citizens there. All of a sudden, I had to pants of the seminar went to to those two areas is allowed. face an absurd situation: I was a UN party. As we entered the The A territories are under com- trapped in the West Bank, una- UN building, the Palestinian plete Palestinian control –a no- ble to return to my own country. guard asked me what language go-area for Israelis. For a couple of hours, I had no I speak. “Hebrew”, I answered. I went to A-Ram to watch a nation or nationality. Very con- “Then you can’t go in”, he said. Palestinian football match. A- fusing. Israelis weren’t allowed to join 44 11 Ram is area B, therefore I had to In order to return, I had to call the party. The United Nations 1414 11 cross a checkpoint. During the a German colleague. She came are not for all nations, appar- entire seminar I spoke English, to A-Ram and picked me up. ently.

so when I came to the check- We drove to a distant check- Adi Halfon Answers point I asked the soldiers out of point in C territory, from which habit in English if I could go in. we could return to Israel. I felt

“You can, but you can’t go out”, like a thief, having to sneak my Emotionally, I

14 Oranit, 26, Rehovot, Jewish Rehovot, 26, Oranit, 14 13 Shlomo, 21, Jerusalem, Jewish Jerusalem, 21, Shlomo, 13 they said rudely. “But this is B way back into my homeland. never left A-Ram.

12 Roshima, 25, Sri Lanka, Roman Catholic Roman Lanka, Sri 25, Roshima, 12 area, I am allowed to go there”, Only later at night, I under- 11 Tatianna, 30, Sao Paulo, Roman Catholic Roman Paulo, Sao 30, Tatianna, 11

55 Muslim Ramallah, 19, Nida, 10 12 I replied. One soldier didn’t stood why the soldiers at A- I am still stuck in 9 Prempree Na-Songkla, 56, Thailand, Buddhist Thailand, 56, Na-Songkla, Prempree 9 12

even talk with me. The other Ram refused to let me return to

8 David, 22, Rishon le Zion, Muslim Zion, le Rishon 22, David, 8 the middle: For the 7 Ramadan, 42, Jerusalem, Muslim Jerusalem, 42, Ramadan, 7 said without listening: “If you Israel. It shocked me: The IDF

6 Wolfgang, 41, Germany, Roman Catholic Roman Germany, 41, Wolfgang, 6 want to go out again, go to Ka- soldiers, who are Israeli just Israelis I am too 5 Mizer, 30, Ethiopia, Ethiopian Orthodox Ethiopian Ethiopia, 30, Mizer, 5

4 Muhammad, 61, Jerusalem, Muslim Jerusalem, 61, Muhammad, 4 landia checkpoint, near Ramal- like me, thought I am Palestin- can Palestinian, and for

lah. From this checkpoint here, ian. I spoke in English. I never

- Francis Republic, Czech 34, Robert, Father 3 her daughter her you can’t return”. showed them my ID because I the Palestinians I

2 Wasilisa, 29, Russia, Russian Orthodox with with Orthodox Russian Russia, 29, Wasilisa, 2 The football game was about assumed it is crystal clear I am

1 Cojvera, 37, Romania, Greek Orthodox Greek Romania, 37, Cojvera, 1 Israeli. For a couple of hours I am too Israeli. 66 1313 to start, and I didn’t want to miss 30 31 HOPE Ltd FOOTBALLFOOTBALL BehindBehind thethe FenceFence

Despite poverty, checkpoints and poor infrastructure the Palestinians have revived their own league Jabel Mukaber scoring - Al-Bireh Stadium

32 33 HOPE Ltd

he two teams, Sur Ba- players are Israeli-Arabs. The advertise on the team’s shirts. current job, he was the manager Due to security reasons, the her and Tul Karem, are teams in the Palestinian league Sur Baher, which is one of the of some minor clubs in Israel. Israeli army is not allowing Politically T warming up. A little boy are allowed to have 3 non-Pal- weakest teams in the league, is He likes Hapoel Tel Aviv, an Is- people from the Gaza strip to is standing next to the fence, estinian players. There are few no longer leading. Tul Karem raeli football club, that is known enter to West Bank. Because of watching the players with ad- African players in the league, players got into action and now for its left-wing supporters. that, Palestine has two different Incorrect miring eyes. One hand is hold- but most of the foreign players have the upper hand with a 2-1 Tul Karem is already leading leagues: The West Bank league ing the fence, trying to reach are Israeli-Arabs. lead. Sur Baher fans get very 4-1. Sur Baher’s players look and the Gaza Strip league. They the players. With the other hand Meanwhile, Jabel Mukaber is quiet. None of them wear the like a random bunch of people are both first divisions. In the Israeli fans like to he is eating the Palestine na- leading 3-0 and attacking Jenin’s team’s jersey, since there is no who happen to wear the same end of the season, the champi- tease Arab players tional snack for football games goal heavily. The fans are de- merchandising industry at all. jerseys. Actually, that is not far ons of the two leagues are sup- – peanuts. Here they don’t sell manding more goals. “Keep on The few Tul Karem fans are from reality. There are no scouts posed to play a single match Football and politics always hotdogs, and of course no beer, running, or we will make a steak dancing on their seats. in the Palestinian league. The between them, and the winner go together in Israel. The two which is not allowed by Islam. out of you”, shouts one of Muk- Halftime at Al-Bireh. There are squad is being recruited by ad- of that match should become teams that demonstrate this The crowd, all men, can buy aber’s fans to his midfielder. Af- no changing rooms, so the play- vertising, messages at mosques the national champion. Such a sentence more than all are Be- or simply by hearsay. game never happened because peanuts and drink hot tea. ter 30 minutes of game time, the ers of both teams are sitting on itar Jerusalem and Hapoel Tel The seats and the stairs at the players are growing tired and fa- the grass and listening to their Corner kick. Jabel Mukaber for- of security issues and internal Aviv. The first is known for its brand new Faysel Husseini sta- tigued. None of them are profes- manager’s tactical instructions. ward heads the ball, and misses problems. rather right-winged supporters, dium in East Jerusalem are all sionals and it is difficult to keep Taking a shower at halftime is the bar only by a few centim- In the Faysel Husseini sta- covered with peanut. The sta- a good pace for ninety minutes. not even an option. It is also eters. Jenin players just want the dium the final whistle is heard. the second for its more secular dium is still under construction game to end. As an Arab, who Tul Karem won 5-1. Perhaps and left-winged fans. and on the way to the stand the also holds Israeli citizenship, the fans of Sur Baher got used crowd must pass through gravel Shaqeeb feels uncomfortable to to lose, because they are not an- The Israeli fans don’t like to and wooden shelves. The fans criticize the checkpoints or talk- gry as one may have expected. cheer for their own team. They of the home team are singing ing about political issues. His The few Tul Karem supporters would rather prefer to upset the “with our blood, with our souls, team is playing poorly, but he can feel lucky, since there are no fans of the other team. That is we are with you Sur Baher”. takes full responsibility. police or security forces in the being reflected by the lyrics in They are playing the Darbuka, Even though his team is do- stadium to prevent chaos. In A- the songs of the supporters. which is an oriental drum. The ing very well, Abeid is more Ram area, where the stadium is game is about to begin and the decisive about the problems of located, there are neither Pales- The most common song of Be- tinian nor Israeli policemen. atmosphere is electrifying. the Palestinian football clubs. itar’s fans is “death to all Ar- In Al-Bireh another football “Some of the players are living After most of the fans have abs”. They also like to tease game is taking place. Jabel Mu- on the one side of the wall, and left Al-Bireh, the Jenin players Israeli-Arab players. “Touama kaber, one of the championship others are living on the other are changing clothes outside of frontrunners, is hosting Jenin. In side”, says Jabel Mukaber’s the pitch. They go into two big (the name of a famous Israeli- this game there is not much of The only stand in Al-Bireh stadium: A half constructed building manager. “As a result, we can’t vans, that will take them all the Arab player, who played for ri- an atmosphere, maybe because Jenin players, for an example, halftime in the Faysel Husseini have regular training, and not all way to Jenin. As soon as they val Hapoel) you are a terrorist, there are no stands. The pitch is are training only 3 times a week, stadium. Many people enter the of us are training together”. leave the pitch, the local youth we will kill you”, is another surrounded by a fence, around two hours each time. stadium at the half. The ticket Jenin manages to go for a team enters. First, they all kneel popular song among Beitar’s which fans gather to watch the Khader Abeid, Jabel Muka- price, 5 NIS (about 1 Euro), is rare counter attack. Their right- on the ground and pray. When fans. game. Some of them are climb- ber’s manager, explains: “The too expensive for them. At half- winger gets the ball near the the praying is over the training ing on the roof of a nearby con- players play for free, because we time they can enter without pay- box. He fires a good shot, but begins, in order to build up the Hapoel Tel Aviv fans have in- struction site, where they can don’t have any money. If one of ing. Jabel Mukaber goalie makes a next generation of Palestinian sulting songs as well. After get a better view. the fans is happy with a certain Four minutes after the begin- fabulous save. That goalie can football players. “One day”, as Beitar was disqualified this At Faysel Husseini stadium, player’s performance, he may ning of the second half, Jabel make the difference between Abeid said, “we will become season from the second round professional”. Sur Baher is the first team to give the player some money as Mukaber is leading 5 to 0. taking the championship and of UEFA champions league, score. The players are running a gift”. Generally, the Palestini- Shaqeeb, the manager of Jenin, finishing in mid-table. Unfortu- During his research, the left-winged supporters of to the crowd, which goes mad an league is based on donations, looks desperate. Shaqeeb is an nately, since he doesn’t have the Adi Halfon (27), Hapoel sang “Jerusalem is not and starts to sing even louder. because the clubs have almost Israeli-Arab who lives in the right permissions, he is not al- found out Ramallah One man is waving the Pales- no income. The team jerseys village of Salem. It is very close lowed to pass checkpoints in the looks a little bit like his in Europe anymore, Jerusalem neighbourhood in Tel belongs to Jordan”. tinian flag, another waving the are donated by some businesses, to Jenin, but on the Israeli side West Bank, so he can play only Aviv. Israeli flag, since some of the and in return the businesses can of the border. Before he took the at the home games.

34 35 HOPE Ltd

think this is ridiculous. You can´t even buy Arab family recipes. “We take it away from them.” Just like have lots of Arab people coming one would never say Pasta Napoli here”, says Moti Cohen from Pina- Hummus – thology was not Italian because tomatoes ti, “and they give us compliments Hummus – thology are from central America and Pas- for our hummus. That´s how we ta from China, he explains. “This know we are good.” country is young and it takes time Among the most famous hum- to develop a national cuisine”, Nir mus restaurants is Abu Hassan´s Avieli says. in Jaffa. Here, people are wait- Hummus with Meat Customers and owners say, that ing outside on Shabbat for a free hummus is healthy. In fact, it is place at one of the tables. At Abu and Pine Nuts rich with iron and vitamin C but Hassan´s you are told where to sit also olive oil, so that it can have up and they shout your order out loud. Offered in many hummus eateries, this meal on one plate is delicious to 200 calories per 100g depending Hummus here is of course warm, and filling. on composition. Hummus always a bit more liquid than usual, with comes with pita, which can be filled soft chick peas and a note of chilli. with falafel, meat balls, schawarma During the week, tourists are taken Ingredients (serves 4-6) meat or schnitzel. Cohen: “If you here by their “Lonely Planet”, on 600 g (11/2 lb) basic hummus dip ask me what the real national food the weekend, young people from The Meat: is, it’s schnitzel in a pita with hum- Tel Aviv and around pilgrim here 4 tablespoons olive oil mus and charif.” Charif is a sharp for lunch. “For me, this is the best 450 g (1 lb) beef ground with 100 It used to be just food, until sauce and the schnitzel is of course place in Tel Aviv, in all of Israel, g (31/2 oz) lamb fat made with chicken. It reflects the the whole Middle-East”, praises 1 large onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped Israelis started to glorify it unique mixture of European and Amir Atias, who comes here every Salt and freshly ground black oriental culture. Friday with his girlfriend Shelly. pepper Flickering neon light illuminates a “you can see doctors and street This is one of the major reasons “The People call this place the “It’s just food, it stops hunger,” he teaspoon baharat spice mix greyish paste in the big iron pot on workers sitting at the same table why Lebanon recently tried to temple”, says Moti Cohen. While says at first. But then he admits: Dash of ground chili pepper the counter. The unique aroma of and even though they don´t know have it saved as Lebanese by the religious Jews celebrate Shabbat at “When we Israelis go abroad, cup parsley, chopped lemon, garlic and something close each other, they start to talk. We European Commission. Hoping home and in the Synagogue, secu- that’s the stuff we miss.” Then he 2-3 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly to boiled sand fills the restaurant, feel more like a family here.” that similar to the protection of feta lar Israelis prefer to go out for a puts his pita into his yellow-grey toasted while the chef in the kitchen con- Hummus mainly consists of being Greek or champagne being bowl of hummus, preferably to an paste. “We whipe the hummus tinues cooking his specialty. En- chick peas, olive oil, lemon juice, French, this might stop Israel from Arab village nearby, such as Abu with the pita, we don’t eat it with Heat the oil in a large, heavy, hot Gosh, Jaffa and Akko. At Abu a fork like you do,” Moti Cohen trance there is prohibited, so is garlic and a sesame paste called naming it as national specialty and skillet and fry the onions until they asking for the recipe. “Tchina”. But the exact recipe is bring Lebanese companies an ad- Shukri in the Old City of Jerusa- would say. “that is part of being turn golden. Add the meat and On the corner of King George the best kept secret of every hum- vantage on the European market. lem, at the end of Via Dolorosa, a Israeli.” Nir Avieli agrees: “The stir-fry for 2-3 minutes, breaking and Ben Jehuda, in the centre of mus restaurant. But hummus, like falafel and other Palestinian mother explains: “The dipping, the sharing is typical for it down into small crumbs with a West Jerusalem, you can watch a “Obviously, it’s an Arab food”, specialties based on chick peas, Jews don´t eat hummus everyday this region and would be difficult fork. Add garlic, season with salt, cult, which has nothing to do with says sociologist Nir Avieli, who is an integral part of the “Greater like we do, they go out on Friday for a European, I think.” This is pepper and baharat and fry 1-2 resurrection, sins, heaven or hell: is lecturing and researching about Syrian Cuisine”, which not only or Saturday with friends or fam- why he sees the popularity of local minutes. Add half the parsley, Hummus. “There are people who food and popular culture at Ben includes Lebanon, but also Syria ily.” She does not want to read her food in Israeli society not only as mix well and remove from the are junkies for hummus. I don’t Gurion University in Beer Sheva. and Palestine. “They can say that name printed but goes on: “I don´t a “colonial act”, as quoted above. stove. Keep warm. Spoon the know why but I satisfy their de- “But 80% of Israelis have hummus claiming hummus as national food care if they say it’s their national “You can also argue that hummus hummus onto plates and spread sire,” says Moti Cohen. He is giv- in their refrigerators.” That makes is a colonial act of Israel and may- food. We ate hummus before the is so ‘in’ in Israel, because Israel is around the rim, leaving a crater in ing out the dishes today at “Pina- hummus, both handmade and in- be they are right”, argues Nir Avie- Israelis came and we will always becoming more Middle-Eastern.” the center. Heap the meat mixture ti”, which means “My Corner” in dustrial, the most popular food li, who describes himself as “left- eat it.” “There is a trend in Israel in the crater, sprinkle with the Hebrew. product in Israel. wing and pro-Palestinian”, “but I to look for the authentic hummus, During her research, Veronique remaining parsley and top with Pinati is an institution, open for The mother companies of the and that is always Palestinian”, so- Brüggemann (21), discovered not pine nuts. Drizzle some olive oil 32 years, the owners meanwhile best-selling supermarket branches ciologist Aviely explains. “So by only that there are dozens of ways to eat and serve at once. Variation: If hummus, but also that run restaurants in Ramat Gan, “Achla” and “Tsabar” even started going to an Arab place for a bowl you don’t like the aroma of lamb Ashdod, Bet Schemesch and two exporting the Israeli variant of the of hummus, people admit its ori- trying them all in a few days is neither healthy or can’t get lamb fat, use only gin.” Moti and his family set an ex- further places in Jerusalem. What paste, one of them cooperating with nor tasty but makes beef. Make sure it has a relatively makes it so successful is “the taste Danone, the other one with Nestlé. ception with Pinati. Many Israelis addicted nevertheless. high fat content or the mixture of the hummus and the atmos- Nir Avieli: “Israel has put hummus give their restaurant an Arab name, So, please don’t try will be too dry. phere”, manager Cohen thinks, in a process of globalization.” if they are selling hummus, some this at home! Chef Avi Steinitz

36 37 HOPE Ltd

believed that in a society with in a slightly different way. decide, where it is allowed to a Muslim majority, someone Everything started during an sell pork and where it is not. For would drink his beer. But Na- economical crisis in the Fifties, example, in a neighborhood of deem Khoury knew that there when it was very difficult to get Russians who like to eat meat, are people like Muad who drink meat. So some people bought it is allowed to sell pork. beer, even though they consider pigs from surrounding Chris- The municipality of Bnei Brak themselves to be Muslims. tian Arab neighbourhoods and for example did not allow the Now, 13 years later, his brew- called them “small cattle”, so sale of non-kosher meat, be- ery produces about 600 000 lit- they would not have to use the cause the majority of inhabit- ers per year. Every bottle car- term “pig” which has a connota- ants were against a non-kosher ries the signature of Nadeem tion of impurity and paganism. butchery. Khoury. “Taste the Revolution” The Kibbutz Mizrah in North- Although rules on how to han- - is the slogan used to adver- ern Israel was the first to raise dle the “Pig”-topic exist, Rabbi Palestinian Beer and tise Taybeh Beer. “For me it is pigs and to offer non-kosher Izchak Ilowitzky, vice-manager Israeli Pork are chang- a revolution for two reasons: meat. Until today, Maadinei of the Kosher Department in First we achieved to actually Mizrah is an important chain Jerusalem, is fundamentally ing the eating habits of brew our own beer in a Muslim which produces all different against raising pigs and con- people on both sides - dominated society. And second- kinds of pork. But the meat is suming pork meat in Eretz Jis- often to the annoyance ly, as Palestinians we can show not produced in the Kibbutz rael: the world that we produce good anymore, because in 1962 the of religious authori- products, which we can be very Knesset under the government ties. proud of”. Because Jordanian of David Ben Gurion passed a law prohibits advertisement for law that prohibits the people in alcohol, Nadeem Khoury tries Israel to keep pigs. An illegal to Israel in 1990 and asked for In some of his the east, in Ramallah, similar to do it in an indirect way: For pig will be killed and the owner salamis, shrimps and mussels, nostalgic mo- things happen: Muad is sitting instance, since 2005 he invites has to pay a fine. Since then, the food chain Tiv Taam based ments, Oleg at the bar. While he is ordering people to an Oktoberfest in Tay- only some Christian-Arab-vil- in Hadera was founded to carry and his friends another beer, he alludes, with an beh where they also can visit his lages like Nazareth or Iblin re- out the demand for the non-ko- The “Kingdom of Pork” in Tel Aviv go to the Res- abashed tone in his voice: “I am brewery. ceived the permission to raise sher fancy food that people of taurant “Little a Muslim. But first of all I am a On this occasion, he explains pigs. Next to the Arab villages, “Anti-semitic people all over the different identitites knew from Prague” in Tel human being who likes to drink the nature of his beer: “Our beer the Kibbutz Lahav in the Ne- world use pigs to provoke Jews. their home country. Customers Aviv to eat a beer.“ Interestingly enough, is liquid bread: It has the same gev Desert is the only place on And now Jews themselves raise who proudly define themselves joint of pork. “I both Israel and the Palestin- natural ingredients as bread. If Jewish land that has the permis- pigs in Israel. While they’re do- as Jews are also proud patrons am used to ba- ian Territories benefit from the you leave some bread sitting sion to raise pigs – but mainly ing this, they act against their of pork. Although this stands con and schnit- preferences of these individu- on a counter for several days, not for meat production but for own people. This is hurting my against their religious dietary zel”, he says. als: Christian Palestinian villag- alcohol will develop. It is the research. Israelis tell the story feelings”, he says. laws: pigs are non-ruminant and ”In my former es like Bethlehem get the pork same with beer. We add no alco- that in some other places pigs Oleg, who eats a pork dish therefore non-kosher. home country, meat from Israel. Restaurants hol. Everything is just a natural are raised on wooden stages so in a restaurant in Tel Aviv, and Palestinians, on the other in Russia, it and bars in Tel Aviv are after process.” that they won’t touch the land Muad, who orders a beer in a hand, even produce their own was nearly im- East-Jerusalem the second larg- But this is not a valid justifi- of Israel. According to this, bar in Ramallah, have some- beer, called “Taybeh Beer”. A possible to get est customer of Taybeh Beer. cation for everyone to consume they would not be illegal any- thing in common: They want to lot of Muslims consume it too, meat other than In both nations there is an alcohol. The Mufti of Jerusa- more. But not just the raising of enjoy their lives – even though although, according to the opin- pork”. Although obvious change in mentality: lem, Sheikh Mohammad Hus- pigs is controlled by law, also they know they act against their ion of most Islamic scholars, he is a Jew and In Israel non-kosher pork is no sein, insists: “For Muslims, the places that sell the so-called religious authorities. Muslims should not drink any some of his longer a taboo. Butcheries like the consumption of alcohol is “white meat”. alcoholic beverages. Judith Kubit- friends refuse to “The Kingdom of Pork” in Tel strictly forbidden, and this spe- In 2004, the High Supreme eat pork, Oleg Aviv or restaurants such as “Lit- When Nadeem Khoury start- scheck (25) enjoyed cifically also includes Taybeh Court decided that the criteria the nightlife in Ramal- ed his own micro-brewery in still enjoys a tle Prague” prove the demand Beer in Palestine.” Hence, Ha- should be, if the majority of the lah ... and of course, 1995 in the old Palestinian vil- nice piece of for pork in the country. When mas closed the six bars in Gaza neighbourhood wants to buy the Taybeh Beer. lage of Taybeh, he couldn’t get schnitzel. 100 a wave of immigrants from after the Second Intifada. Israel pork meat or not. So the local Taste the Revolution Taste kilometers to the former Sovjetunion came credit from any bank. Nobody Taste the Revolution Taste is also tasting a revolution – but municipality is responsible to

38 39 HOPE Ltd

Shadows of the past: Arafat portrait on a wall in Ramallah

Behind the wall: An evening prayer next to the Kalandia-Checkpoint Who's talking? Palestinian man with his cell phone

Muslim scarfs at an alley in the Old City's Suq

At the Mosque and church in Jerusalem’s Old City from Damascus Gate a rooftop view

40