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Sediment Transport and Morphodynamics at an Estuary Mouth: a Study Using Coupled Remote Sensing and Numerical Modelling

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Sediment Transport and Morphodynamics at an Estuary Mouth: a Study Using Coupled Remote Sensing and Numerical Modelling University of Plymouth PEARL https://pearl.plymouth.ac.uk 04 University of Plymouth Research Theses 01 Research Theses Main Collection 2003 Sediment Transport and Morphodynamics at an Estuary Mouth: a Study using Coupled Remote Sensing and Numerical Modelling Siegle, Eduardo http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1759 University of Plymouth All content in PEARL is protected by copyright law. Author manuscripts are made available in accordance with publisher policies. Please cite only the published version using the details provided on the item record or document. In the absence of an open licence (e.g. Creative Commons), permissions for further reuse of content should be sought from the publisher or author. Sediment Transport and Morphodynamics at an Estuary Mouth: a Study using Coupled Remote Sensing and Numerical Modelling by Eduardo Siegle A thesis submitted to the University of Plymouth in partial fulfilment for the degree of>, Doctor of Philosophy School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences Faculty of Science September 2003 LIBRARY r^CRE I— _^71J3 ^"^KU UOCT iDa\e 2003S Aos me us pais To my parents Abstract Sediment Transport and Morphodynamics at an Estuary Mouth: a Study using Coupled Remote Sensing and Numerical Modelling Eduardo Siegle The balance of the physical processes that drive the morphodynamics of a complex inlet system is investigated in this work. For this purpose, an innovative technique using coupled video imaging and numerical modelling has been used to study the relative importance of the driving forces that control the sandbar dynamics at the Teignmouth inlet system. The sandbars that form the ebb tidal delta are highly dynamic, leading to a cyclic morphological behaviour. Application of the numerical model (MIK£21 HD, NSW, ST) served two separate functions. The hydrodynamic model has been used for the image processing and, combined with the sediment transport module, the full model has been used to understand the relative importance of the driving forces at the region. The iterative application of the hydrodynamic model and the video images, with the modelled water levels used as input to the image processing, provides the video-based intertidal morphology that is used in further modelling experiments. This loop is repeated several times during the three-year study period that covered a complete morphological cycle. This results in a quantitative assessment of the relative influence of the key processes that control the environment and in initial steps towards the prediction of its evolution. In order to assess the relative importance of the driving forces a series of modelling experiments were designed to include a variety of forcing conditions. These include the tidal range, wave conditions and river discharge values. The relative importance of each of the physical processes on the sediment transport and consequent morphodynamics varies across the region. The main inlet channel is dominated by tidal action that directs the sediment transport as a consequence of the varying tidal flow asymmetry, resulting in net offshore transport. Sediment transport over the shoals and secondary channels at both sides of the main channel is dominated by wave related processes, displacing sediment onshore. The interaction between waves and tide generated currents controls the transport over the submerged sandbar that defmes the channel's seaward extent. High river discharge events are also proven to be important in this region as they can change sediment transport patterns across the area. Waves play a major role in the sandbar morphodynamics. Despite the relative low frequency of high wave energy events that reach the region they are responsible for large amounts of sediment displacement, catalysing some dramatic morphological changes. Therefore, the temporal distribution of storms defines the cyclic behaviour of such environments, making the system more dynamically active over the winter months. It is also during this period that river discharge values reach high peaks, increasing the capacity of the ebbing tidal flows and interacting with the opposing waves. The opposite occurs during summer periods, when less energetic conditions lead to slower morphological changes. The application of an initial sedimentation/erosion model proved to be useful in giving qualitative predictions of the morphological evolution of such a complex sandbar system, reflecting the initial morphological changes for different forcing conditions. Qualitative comparisons between the modelled sedimentation/erosion patterns and the video based observations of the changes at the dynamic offshore sandbar show that the model is able to reproduce its overall evolutionary tendency. The morphological adjustment of the system to the forcing conditions shows the progression towards the next morphological stage, allowing the initial steps towards predicting the evolution to be taken. The technique applied, coupling the numerical model with the video images, has been shown to be of great value in providing a better understanding of the processes that control the dynamics of inlet systems. At short time-scales, quantitative information about the acting processes and how they interact has been gained by the modelling experiments, and at medium time scales, the combined application resulted in qualitative predictions of the evolution of most regions of the system. IV Contents Abstract >v List of Figures List of Tables xvi List of Symbols xvii Acknowledgements xx Chapter 1 Introduction 1 1.1. General Introduction 1 1.2. Specific Objectives 3 1.3. Thesis outline 3 Chapter 2 Literature Review 5 2.1. Foreword 5 2.2. Inlet Systems 5 2.2. L Definition and general morphology 5 2.2.2. Importance of inlet systems 9 2.2.4. Morphodynamics JO 2.3. Modelling Inlet Processes 13 2.5.7. Initial sedimentation/erosion models 15 2.4. Application of video imaging techniques 18 2.4.1. Extracting information from images 19 2.4.2. Video imaging of inlet systems 23 2.4.3. Combining video imaging and numerical modelling 23 Chapter 3 Study Area and Available Data 25 3.1. Site description 25 3.1.1. Relevant Previous Studies at the River Teign Inlet 27 3.1.2. Nomenclature and Main Morphologic Features 32 3.2. Available data 3.2.1. COAST3D main experiment -^^ 3.2.2. Argus Video System 3.2.3. Weather Station and Pressure Sensor (pier) 50 3.3. Conclusion 51 Chapter 4 Numerical Modelling 52 4.1. Introduction 52 4.2. Model Setup 53 4.2.1. Hydrodynamic module setup (HD) -55 4.3.2. Nearshore Spectral Wind-Wave module setup (NSW) 60 4.3.3. Sediment Transport module setup (ST) 62 4.4. Model Calibration and Validation 63 4.4.1. Calibration 64 4.4.2. Validation 84 4.4.3. Sediment Transport 88 4.6. Conclusions 95 Chapter 5 Video Imaging and Numerical Modelling 98 5.1. Introduction 98 5.2. Technique Applied to Extract Intertidal Morphology from Images 99 5.3. Combination of Numerical Modelling and Video Imaging 101 5.3.1. Water Surface Topography 102 5.3.2. Modelled Water Levels as Input for Video Imaging Techniques 109 5.3.3. Extracted Intertidal Morphology as Input for Numerical Model Simulations 111 5.4. Technique Validation 116 5.5. Application 125 5.6. Discussion and Conclusions 129 Chapter 6 Physical Controls on the Sandbar Dynamics 133 VI 6.1. Introduction 6.2. Numerical Simulations ^33 6.3. General Hydrodynamics 6.3. J. Tidal circulation 6.3.2. River discharge 6.3.3. Wave driven circulation 6.4. Sediment Transport 143 6.4. L General Sediment Transport Patterns ^43 6.4.2. Driving forces on the sediment transport J 46 6.5. Discussion and Conclusions 162 Chapter 7 Sediment Transport Patterns and Morphodynamics 165 7.1. Introduction 165 7.2. Model Setup 166 7.2.3. Bed resistance 167 7.2.4. Sediment data 167 7.3. Numerical Simulations 168 7.4. Sediment Transport and Morphological Evolution 168 7.4.1. Stage 1 J69 7.4.2. Stage 2 J78 7.4.3. Stage 3 185 7.4.4. Stage 4 192 7.5. Conceptual Model of the Cyclic Evolution at Teignmouth 196 7.5.7. Origin of the sandbars 196 7.5.2. Onshore migration of the sandbar 197 7.5.3. Spreading of the attached sandbar and formation of a new offshore sandbar 198 7.6. Conclusions 200 Chapter 8 Conclusions and Future Directions 202 8.1. General Conclusions 202 8.2. Future work 209 VII Appendix I - Numerical Model Description 211 AI.l. Model Description 212 AIL I. MIKE2I Hydrodynamic Module (HD) 2/2 ALL2. MIKE2I Nearshore Spectral Wind-Wave Module (NSW) 22/ AIL3. MIKE2I Sediment Transport Module (ST) 224 Appendix II 232 References 244 vni List of Figures Chapter 2 2.1. General inlet morphology (modified from Davis, 1994). 6 2.2. Schematic diagrams depicting controls on ebb delta size and shape, where a) free-form ebb delta; b) constricted ebb delta; c) high-angle half delta; and d) low- angle half-delta (after Hicks and Hume, 1996). 8 2.3. Coastal morphodynamic system. 11 2.4. Inlet features (bold) and their main forcings (italic) as a function of time and space (after De Vriend, 1991). 12 2.5. Concept of the initial erosion deposition (ISE), medium term (MT) and long term (LT) models (modified from De Vriend et al., 1993). In the present application, the left-hand side of the diagram is applied (ISE model and data assimilation). 16 2.6. Behaviour of a "distorted" system (modified from De Vriend, 1994). 17 2.7. Example of snap-shot (a) and time-exposure Argus video images. 19 Chapter 3 3.1. Study area. The nearshore bathymetry (for October 1999) is plotted over a rectified Argus image. 25 3.2. The beach, protected by a seawall with The Ness headland in the background. 26 3.3. Diagrammatic representation of the main changes in bank positions (Robinson, 1975).
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