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Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) CERF Stories from the Field

SPECIAL ISSUE NO. 101 (pages 1–432) SUMMER 2020 50 Years of Coastal Fieldwork: 1970-2020 ISSN 0749-0208 of Coastal Research (JCR) Journal

Guest Editors: Andrew D. Short and Robert W. Brander

Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue #101 SI www.cerf-jcr.org www.JCRonline.org 101 An International Forum for the Littoral Sciences Christopher Makowski Official Publisher Editor-in-Chief JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH An International Forum for the Littoral Sciences COASTAL EDUCATION AND RESEARCH FOUNDATION (CERF)

CHEF-HERAUSGEBER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF RÉDACTEUR-EN-CHEF 7570 NW 47th Avenue Coconut Creek, FL 33073, U.S.A. Christopher Makowski, Ph.D. Officers of the Foundation Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. (CERF) Founded in 1983 by: Charles W. Finkl, Sr. (Deceased), Editorial Offices: Charles W. Finkl, Jnr., Rhodes W. Fairbridge (Deceased), 313 S. Braeside Court 7570 NW 47th Avenue (Business Office, Coconut Creek) and Maurice L. Schwartz (Deceased) Asheville, NC Coconut Creek, FL Website: www.CERF-JCR.org President & Senior Vice President & 28803, U.S.A. 33073, U.S.A. E-mail: [email protected] Executive Director: Assistant Director: Charles W. Finkl Christopher Makowski EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EMERITUS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT BOOK REVIEW EDITOR WEB DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT Secretary: Executive Assistant: Charles W. Finkl Barbara Russell Luciana S. Esteves Jon Finkl Heather M. Vollmer Barbara Russell Coastal Education and Research Coastal Education and Research Faculty of Science and Technology Media Mine Foundation, Inc. (CERF) Foundation, Inc. (CERF) Bournemouth University 17600 River Ford Drive CERF-JCR Regional Vice Presidents 313 S. Braeside Court 7570 NW 47th Avenue Dorset, England, U.K. Davidson, NC 28036, U.S.A. Oceania Asheville, NC 28803, U.S.A. Coconut Creek, FL 33073, U.S.A. [email protected] [email protected] Gary B. Griggs Charles Lemckert CERF-JCR MEMBERSHIP [email protected] [email protected] James R. Houston Anja Scheffers Timothy W. Kana Vic Semeniuk Society members are those individuals that support the aims of Norberto C. Nadal-Caraballo Andrew D. Short CERF and the JCR. More information is available at: www.cerf-jcr. MITHERAUSGEBER ASSOCIATE EDITORS COMITÉ DE REDACTION Western Europe Southeast Asia org. CERF-JCR Memberships are available in different categories with Edward J. Anthony Duncan M. FitzGerald Vladimir N. Kosmynin Phil D. Osborne Vallam Sundar Luciana S. Esteves Hak Soo Lim certain privileges and can be viewed at: https://cerf.allenpress.com/ Coastal Transport Reefs, Coastal Sediment Dynamics cerf/MEMBERSHIP.aspx Dunkerque, France Boston, Tallahassee, Vancouver, BC, Carlos Pereira da Silva Zhenling Liu Chennai, India Marcel J.F. Stive Nobuo Mimura Patrick Barnard Kazimierz K. Furman´czyk Michael J. Lace Hugh Parker Ana Teodoro Subscription information is available upon request by writing to: Marine Cartography Coastal & Processes Airborne Lidar Bathymetry Coastal Geomorphology Remote Sensing Santa Cruz, California Szczecin, Poland West Branch, Iowa Adelaide, SA, Eastern Europe South America [email protected]. The CERF-JCR subscriptions office is located at: Porto, Portugal Natalia Bugajny Allen Gontz Stephen P. Leatherman Charitha B. Pattiaratchi Niki Evelpidou Vanda Claudino-Sales Allen Press, Inc., P.O. Box 1897, Lawrence, KS 66044, U.S.A. Coastal Geomorphology Geophysics, Stratigraphy Barrier , E. Robert Thieler Kazimierz K. Furman´czyk Omar Defeo Szczecin, Poland San Diego, California Miami, Florida Crawley, WA, Australia Marine Geology Middle East and N. Africa Editor-in-Chief M. Paula Bunicontro Gary B. Griggs Jay Jooyong Lee Carlos Pereira da Silva Woods Hole, Massachusetts Coastal Geomorphology Coastal Engineering & Hazards Rip Currents, Coastal Hazards Coastal Zone Management Hannes Tõnisson Michael Phillips Christopher Makowski, Ph.D. Lisbon, Portugal Buenos Aires, Argentina Santa Cruz, California Busan, Republic of Korea Coastal Evolution Michael Phillips Dr. Christopher Makowski is the Senior Vice President and As- David M. Bush Pramod Hanamgond Charles Lemckert Tallinn, Estonia Board of Directors (Trustees) Coastal Geomorphology Environmental Fluid Dynamics Coastal Geomorphology Vanda Claudino-Sales Stephen P. Leatherman Vic Semeniuk sistant Director of the Coastal Education and Research Foundation Coastal Geology & Hazards Doha, Qatar Arthur C. Trembanis Carrollton, Belgaum, India Bruce, ACT, Australia (CERF), the official publisher of the international Journal of Coastal Orrin H. Pilkey, Jr. Coastal Morphodynamics Charles W. Finkl Charles Lemckert Douglas J. Sherman Ilya V. Buynevich Hans Hanson Hak Soo Lim Duncan M. FitzGerald Gonzalo C. Malvárez Andrew D. Short Coastal Protection Hydrodynamics, Coastal Coastal Geology Newark, Delaware Research (JCR). He received B.Sc. (Marine Biology), M.Sc. (Marine Eco- Coastal Geology Durham, Gary B. Griggs Christopher Makowski Daniel J. Stanley Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Lund, Sweden Engineering Frank Van Der Meulen system Diversity), and Ph.D. (Coastal Geoscience and Remote Sensing Busan, Republic of Korea Nobert P. Psuty James R. Houston Carlos Pereira da Silva Marcel J.F. Stive Javier A. Carrió Simon Haslett Coastal Zone Management of Biogeomorphological Resources) degrees from Florida Atlantic Uni- Paleoceanography Ioannis Liritzis Coastal Geomorphology Delft, The Netherlands Robert Huff Michael Phillips Phil Watson Sediment Processes New Brunswick, versity of Boca Raton, Florida, USA, and has worked for over 25 years Valencia, Spain Swansea, Wales, UK Geophysical Data, Ana Vila Concejo Timothy W. Kana Norbert P. Psuty Michael Hilton Archaeometry Elijah W. Ramsey, III in the coastal research community, holding titles of Assistant Direc- Insik Chun Coastal Morphodynamics Joseph T. Kelley Elijah W. Ramsey, III Geomorphology & Ecology Rhodes, Greece Coastal Image Processing tor (Coastal Planning & Engineering’s Marine Science and Biological Coastal Engineering Dunedin, New Zealand Lafayette, , NSW, Australia Seoul, Republic of Korea J. Paul Liu Lifetime Members Research Department), Principal Marine Scientist (Collier County, James R. Houston Sea-Level Change, Deltas Tiffany Roberts Briggs Ian J. Walker Vanda Claudino-Sales Sea-Level Change Raleigh, North Carolina Coastal Geomorphology Coastal & Camilo M. Botero Tetsuya Kusuda Nelson G. Rangel- Florida, USA), and Senior Advisor (International Coastal Symposium Coastal Dynamics, Dunes Boca Raton, Florida Vicksburg, Zhenling Liu Tempe, Arizona David M. Bush Stephen P. Leatherman Buitrago [ICS]). Dr. Makowski has published numerous peer reviewed papers, Ceará, Brazil Kirt Rusenko Wenrui Huang Sustainable Development, Ping Wang Frédéric Bouchette Charles Lemckert Yoshiki Saito authored multiple chapters, and co-edited various volumes in Spring- Mark Crowell Energy Economics Sea Turtles, Dune Restoration Coastal Hydrodynamics Boca Raton, Florida Beach Morphodynamics Yong-Sik Cho J. Paul Liu Anja Scheffers Coastal Zone Management Tallahassee, Florida Zhengzhou, er's Coastal Research Library (CRL) Series and Encyclopedia of Earth McLean, Virginia Daniele Scarponi Tampa, Florida Nicholas K. Coch Gonzalo C. Malvárez Andrew D. Short Federico I. Isla Michel M. de Mahiques Sciences Series (EESS). In addition to these accomplishments, he is Omar Defeo Sediment Processes Marine Phil Watson Hany Elwany Norberto C. Nadal- Rodolfo Silva Sea-Level Change Bologna, Italy professionally recognized by the American Academy of Underwater Sandy Beach Ecology Mar Del Plata, Argentina São Paulo, Brazil Sea-Level Change Kazimierz K. Caraballo Charles Thibault Montevideo, Uruguay Anja Scheffers Gosford, NSW, Australia Furmanczyk Fatima Navas Erik van Wellen Sciences (AAUS) and is certified as a Master Scuba Diver Trainer Nancy L. Jackson Gonzalo C. Malvárez Coastal Hazards, Joseph F. Donoghue Coastal Geomorphology Beach Morphodynamics Harry F. Williams Allen Gontz Philip D. Osborne Ya Ping Wang through the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI), Coastal Morphology & Hazards Palaeoclimatology Newark, New Jersey Seville, Spain Lismore, NSW, Australia Paleotempestology having logged over 2,000 underwater dives on six different continents. Orlando, Florida Carl H. Hobbs, III Michael Phillips Allan T. Williams Markes E. Johnson Nobuo Mimura Vic Semeniuk Denton, Paul S. Kench Orrin H. Pilkey, Jr. Robert S. Young Other professional registrations, certifications, and accreditations in- Jean Ellis Paleoshores, Coastal Dunes Environmental Engineering Mangroves Colin D. Woodroffe Björn Kjerfve Norbert P. Psuty Wei Zhang clude: Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) Board of Aeolian Sediment Transport Williamstown, Massachusetts Ibaraki, Perth, WA, Australia Columbia, Coastal Geomorphology Victor V. Klemas Directors (Trustees), BioOne Board of Directors, International Society Timothy Kana Norberto C. Nadal-Caraballo Douglas J. Sherman Wollongong, NSW, Australia Hany Elwany Coastal Science & Engineering Coastal Hazards for Studies (ISRS) Member, Florida Association of Environmental Coastal & Aeolian Geomorphology Zhaoqing Yang Patron Members Coastal Engineering, Columbia, South Carolina Vicksburg, Mississippi Tuscaloosa, Hydrodynamic Modeling Georges Chapalain John W. Jenson Timothy W. Kana Professionals (FAEP) Chapter Member, American Academy of Under- Oceanography Dieter H. Kelletat Fatima Navas Andrew D. Short La Jolla, California Coastal Geomorphology Coastal Morphodynamics Coastal Geomorphology Seattle, Washington water Sciences (AAUS) Registered Diving Safety Officer, American Luciana Esteves Essen/Cologne, Germany Seville, Spain Sydney, NSW, Australia Robert S. Young Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS) Member, National Coastal Flooding & Erosion Joseph T. Kelley Robert Nicholls Pravi Shrestha Coastal Processes CERF-JCR Society Information Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) Certified Marine Mammal and Pro- Bournemouth, England, UK Sea-Level Change Global Change Coastal Engineering Cullowhee, North Carolina Orono, Maine Southampton, England, UK The Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) is a non- tected Species Observer, Professional Association of Diving Instructors Niki Evelpidou Irvine, California Guoliang Yu Sea-Level Change, profit research society dedicated to the advancement of the coastal (PADI) Open Water Scuba Diver Instructor, PADI Enriched Air Nitrox Björn Kjerfve Karl F. Nordstrom Tom Spencer Sediment Transport Palaeogeography Physical Oceanography, Wetlands Coastal Geomorphology Biogeomorphology sciences and serves as the official publisher of the international Jour- Shangai, China Specialty Instructor, Emergency First Responder (CPR/FirstAid/AED) Athens, Greece College Station, Texas New Brunswick, New Jersey Cambridge, England, UK nal of Coastal Research (JCR). CERF-JCR is devoted to the multi- Saiyu Yuan Instructor, PADI Specialty Underwater Photographer Instructor, and Oscar Manuel Ferreira Nobuhisa Kobayashi Julian Orford Marcel Stive disciplinary study of complex problems related to the coastal zone. Storm Impacts Coastal Engineering Gravel , Storm Events Coastal Hydrodynamics Water Flow, Sediment Transport Divers Alert Network (DAN) Sustaining Member. Faro, Portugal Newark, Delaware Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK Delft, The Netherlands Nanjing, China Our purpose is to help in the translation and interpretation of coastal issues for the public and to assist professional and academic research For more information, please visit Dr. Makowski's home page at: programs by supporting and encouraging field and laboratory studies www.cerf-jcr.org on a local, national, and global basis. Through printed scientific pub- lications, online content, and renowned international sym- International Coastal Symposium (ICS) posiums, CERF-JCR brings accurate information to both the public Official Meeting of CERF-JCR and researchers alike on all aspects of coastal issues in an effort to The International Coastal Symposium (ICS) was originally set up maintain and improve the quality of shoreline resources. by Per Bruun (deceased) and Charles W. Finkl as the official meeting The Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) is one of the leading inter- national journals for coastal studies and processes, and is published of the Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) and the bi-monthly by the Coastal Education and Research Foundation Journal of Coastal Research (JCR), with one of the first meetings be- (CERF). By covering the entire field of coastal research, the JCR ing held in Hilton Head, South Carolina, in 1993. After the repeated encompasses all subjects relevant to natural and engineered envi- success of these meetings, CERF-JCR moved the ICS to an interna- THE JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH (JCR) (ISSN 0749–0208) IS PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY FOR $115.00 FOR INDIVIDUAL US CERF MEMBERS, $125.00 ronments (i.e. freshwater, brackish, or marine) and the protection/ tional platform by holding these conferences in conjunction with local FOR INDIVIDUAL INTERNATIONAL CERF MEMBERS, $519.00 FOR US INSTITUTIONS, AND $541.00 FOR INTERNATIONAL INSTITUTIONS BY THE management of their resources in the vicinity of coastlines around sponsors in Australia, Brazil, Iceland, New Zealand, Northern Ireland, COASTAL EDUCATION AND RESEARCH FOUNDATION, INC. (CERF), 7570 NW 47TH AVENUE, COCONUT CREEK, FL 33073–2723. PERIODICALS POST- the world. Even though the journal broadly focuses on immediate Poland, Portugal, and . The ICS brings together delegates AGE PAID AT FORT LAUDERDALE, FL AND ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO JOURNAL OF COASTAL shoreline zones, the JCR also embraces those coastal environments from all over the world to collaborate and discuss the most current RESEARCH, ALLEN PRESS ASSOCIATION MANAGEMENT, P.O. BOX 1897, LAWRENCE, KS 66044–3018. that either reach some indefinite distance inland or that extend sea- coastal research studies and projects. During the ICS 2014, which was q 2020 Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. [CERF]. ward beyond the outer margins of the sublittoral (neritic) zone. We held in Durban, South Africa, a grand celebration took place to mark encourage you to visit www.cerf-jcr.org for more information and the 30th Anniversary of CERF and the JCR. For more information, a This paper meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (Permanence of Paper). invite you all to be a part of our CERF-JCR coastal research society. please visit www.cerf-jcr.org. JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH An International Forum for the Littoral Sciences Supporting Scientific Institutions

Consorzio Nazionale Interuniversitario per le Scienze del Mare (Co.N.I.S.Ma.) [Rome, Italy; www.conisma.it/] Delft University of Technology [Department of Hydraulic Engineering, Delft, The Netherlands; http://www.citg.tudelft.nl/over-faculteit/afdelingen/hydraulic-engineering/] Duke University [Earth and Ocean Sciences Division, Durham, North Carolina, U.S.A.; https://nicholas.duke.edu/marinelab] Griffith University [Center for Infrastructure Engineering and Management, Southport, , Australia; https://www.griffith.edu.au/] Ibaraki University [Center for Water Environmental Studies, Mito, Japan; http://www.cwes.ibaraki.ac.jp/] International Geographical Union (IGU) [Commission on Coastal System (CCS); http://www.igu-ccs.org/] Royal Belgian Institute of Natural Sciences [Management Unit of the North Sea Mathematical Models (MUMM), Brussels, Belgium; http://www.mumm.ac.be/EN/index.php] Rutgers University [Institute of Marine and Coastal Sciences (IMCS), New Brunswick, New Jersey, U.S.A.; http://marine.rutgers.edu/main/] Universidad de la Republica´ [Marine Science Unit, Montevideo, Uruguay; http://www.imber.info/Science/National-Network/URUGUAY] Universidade Nova de Lisboa [e- Center for Geographical and Regional Planning Studies, Lisbon, Portugal; http://e-geo.fcsh.unl.pt/] University of California, Santa Cruz [Institute of Marine Sciences, Santa Cruz, California, U.S.A.; http://ims.ucsc.edu/] University of Delaware [School of Marine Science and Policy, Newark, Delaware, U.S.A.; http://www.ocean.udel.edu] University of Maine [Climate Change Institute, Orono, Maine, U.S.A.; http://climatechange.umaine.edu/] University of Sydney [Coastal Studies Unit, Sydney, , Australia; http://sydney.edu.au/] University of Szczecin [Institute of Marine and Coastal Science, Szczecin, Poland; http://www.wnoz.ztikm.szczecin.pl/en/1/inom/structure/] University of Ulster [Environmental Sciences Research Institute, Coleraine, Northern Ireland; http://www.ulster.ac.uk/es/research/] University of Wales, Trinity Saint David [Swansea Metropolitan University, Mount Pleasant, Swansea, South Wales, U.K.; http://www.uwtsd.ac.uk/] U.S. Army Corps of Engineers [Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL), Vicksburg, Mississippi, U.S.A.; http://chl.erdc.usace.army.mil/] U.S. Geological Survey [National Wetlands Research Center, Lafayette, Louisiana, U.S.A.; http://www.nwrc.usgs.gov/] Aims and Scope of the Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) Journal of Coastal Research (JCR), an International Forum for the Littoral Sciences, is dedicated to all aspects of coastal research. These include geology, biology, geomorphology (physical geography), climate, littoral oceanography, hydrography, coastal hydraulics, environmental (resource) management, engineering, and remote sensing. Although each field functions effectivelywithin itsownpurview, the cross-disciplinarynature of coastal studies requires familiarity with other fields as well. Hence, the scope of topics is necessarily broad in order to address the complexity of coastal biophysical and socio-economic interactions. Because of the wide range of interrelated topics, the journal invites original contributions and manuscripts dealing with theory, methodology, techniques, and field or applied topic studies on interdisciplinary coastal issues. The journal encourages the dissemination of knowledge and understanding of the coastal zone by promoting cooperation and communication between specialists in different disciplines. Natural scientists, for example, are encouraged to collaborate with professionals in other fields to prepare contributions relating to the coastal zone that foster increased appreciation of coastal environments and processes. By means of this journal, with its scholarly and professional papers, systematic review articles, book and symposia reviews, communications and news, and special topical issues, an international forum for the development of integrated coastal research is provided. Advertising, Editorial, and Subscription Information Advertising and Editorial Office: All advertising and editorial correspondence should be sent to Dr. Chris Makowski, Editor-in-Chief, Journal of Coastal Research, 7570 NW 47th Avenue, Coconut Creek, FL 33073, U.S.A. PHONE: (þ1) 954-899-8416. E-MAIL: [email protected] WEBSITE: www.cerf-jcr.org

Subscription Information: The Journal of Coastal Research is a bimonthly publication. Calendar-year (2020) print and online subscription prices for the JCR are: $115.00 for US CERF members / $125.00 for International CERF members ($95.00 for online only), and $519.00 for US institutions / $541.00 for International institutions ($437.00 for online only). Additional surface charges may apply to subscribers located outside of the USA. For additional membership and subscription forms and information, please go to www.cerf-jcr.org. To obtain a membership or subscription form by mail, please send request to Journal of Coastal Research, P.O. Box 7065, Lawrence, KS 66044. Back Issues and Special Issues of the JCR, when available, can be directly requested at: [email protected].

Abstracting Information: The Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) is currently surveyed in: Web of Science (WoS) Core Collection / Web of Knowledge (Clarivate Analytics); Science Citation Index Expanded; SCOPUS (Elsevier); BioOne Complete; JSTOR; EBSCO; ProQuest; Charlesworth; BIOSIS Previews; Zoological Record; Biological Abstract; H.W. Wilson Company; Thomson Reuters (ISI); Cabells Scholarly Analytics; Essential Science Indicators; Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS); Gale Group (Gale/Cengage Learning); Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC); Current Contents - Physical, Chemical & Earth Sciences; and Current Contents - Agriculture, Biology & Environmental Sciences.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHS

Clockwise from top-left: Leavitt , Beaufort Sea North Alaska, September 1972. Andy Short and Bill Wiseman surveying the low amidst patches of snow and small blocks of sea ice, which can be washed ashore at any time during the summer. Larger blocks ground on the crest of the outer bar/s. The survey was part of a 6 month field investigation into Alaskan Arctic coastal processes and morphology by the Coastal Studies Institute, Louisiana State University for the Office of Naval Research. Much of the coast consists of low discontinuous barrier islands, including flying islands that transgress landward and are prone to complete overwashing by storm waves and surges generated by occasional westerly low pressure systems. (Photo: D. Fisher.) Egmond van Zee, The Netherlands, July 1989. Aart Kroon, David Huntley, unknown, and Leo van Rijn monitoring sediment transport in the inner at Egmond van Zee beach. (Photo: A.D. Short, School of Geosciences, University of Sydney, NSW, Australia.) , Central Coast, NSW, Australia, December 2011. Jamie MacMahan (Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA) leads an intrepid team carrying Lagrangian GPS drifters into a to measure circulation patterns as part of the Rip Current Swimmer and Floater Experiments (RIPSAFE) project led by UNSW Sydney and funded by the Australian Research Council and Surf Life Saving Australia. The lifesaving caps have connected GPS units for measuring rip current escape strategies. No lives were lost during the experiments. (Photo: P. Rynne.) Stanhope Lane Beach, Prince Edward Island, Canada, October 1989. Phil Osborne (left) and Rob Brander (right) from the Scarborough College Coastal Research Group, University of Toronto between dives during a Canadian Coastal Sediment Transport Programme (C-COAST) experiment – a collaboration between the University of Toronto, Dalhousie University and Memorial University. To keep them happy, divers were supplied with a steady diet of donuts (being gorged on in the photo), and the Argo amphibious vehicle, which they would take for joy rides down the beach and perform their own donuts. (Photo: R.W. Brander, School of Biological, Earth and Environmental Sciences, UNSW Sydney, Australia.)

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Journal of Coastal Research (JCR)

SPECIAL ISSUE NO. 101 (PAGES 1-432) SUMMER 2020 ISSN 0749-0208

Stories from the Field - 50 Years of Coastal Fieldwork: 1970-2020

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION …..………………………………………………………………………..…….…………..… xi ……………………………………………….……...……………..… Andrew D. Short and Robert W. Brander

The 1970s ………………………………………………………..……………………………..….……...... 1 ………………………………………..……………….……...……… Andrew D. Short and Robert W. Brander Graduate Studies at Louisiana State University ……………………………..…………………….….……….. 2 ………………………………………………………………...……………..……………..…… Bruce G. Thom I Love the Arctic! …………………………………………………..…….………………….…..……………….. 6 …………………………………………………………………………………...... ….. Edward H. Owens Documenting Coastal Current Patterns along the Central California Coast Using Air-Dropped Drifters 10 ……………………………...………………….……………………………………………….…..Gary B. Griggs Ghost Bars along the Italian Coast ……………………………………………………………………..………. 15 ………………………………………………………………………………...……..………….… Enzo Pranzini Nearshore Bar Morphodynamics, Kouchibouguac (1971-76) …………………...…….…….…………… 20 ……………………………………………………….…..…Robin G.D. Davidson-Arnott and Brian Greenwood Beach People …...…….……………………………………………………………………..…………………….. 25 ………………………………………………………………………...... ……………...... …… Allan T. Williams Beach Freeze-up Investigations, Devon Island, Nunavut, Canada ………….………………………………… 30 …………………………………………………………………………………………….…… Robert B. Taylor Alaskan Arctic Coastal Fieldwork (1972-1973) ……………………………….………………………………... 36 ………………………………………………………………………….……………………….Andrew D. Short The New Guinea Canoe Caper ……………………………………….………………………………………….. 42 ……………………………………………………………………………………….…………. Charles W. Finkl Checkmate!……………………………………………………………………..…………………….……………… 45 ……………………………………………………………………………………..…...... David A. Huntley Storm-Generated Overwash Processes at Assateague Island, Maryland ……………….…………………….. 48 ………………………………………………………………………………………...… Stephen P. Leatherman Problems of Fieldwork in a Time of Uncertainty (aka The Troubles of Northern Ireland: Four Stories) 51 …………………………………………………………………………………………………… Julian D. Orford

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Tidal Monitoring of a Barrier Breach: The Mysterious Case of the Unidentified Flying Object (UFO) …. 56 ………………………………………………………...….. Brian Greenwood and Robin G.D. Davidson-Arnott Early (1973-4) Experiments on Gravel Beach Morphodynamics: Hubristic and Heuristic Lessons 62 ………………………………………………..……………………………………….…..…..… Julian D. Orford Whether Pigs Have Wings: An Attempt to Pump a Beach Dry ………………………..………..…………….. 70 ……………………………………………………………………….…….. Mark P. Bradshaw and Ian G. Eliot Entrapment and Sentencing to Icy ………………………….……………………………...………….….. 78 …………………………………………………………..…………..…..…… John Harper and Andrew D. Short An Embarrassing Start to Beach Ecology ………………………..……………………………………………... 84 ……………………………………………………………………………..….……..……….. Anton McLachlan Incidents from Seismic Refraction Fieldwork on the ……………….…………..………... 86 ………………………….…………………………………………………….……….…...……….. Nick Harvey Barrier Migration of Nauset Beach, , Massachusetts ………………...…………………...... 89 ………………………….……………………………………………………………..… Stephen P. Leatherman Beach Surveying Narrabeen Beach, NSW, Australia: 1976-2006 …………………..……..………...... 92 ………………………….…………………………………….………….…………….....…….. Andrew D. Short Why Am I Here? Coast of , 1977 …………………...………..……...... 97 …………………………………………………………………………..….…….….……..…. Edward H. Owens Drowning, Not Waving ……………………………………………………….………………………………….. 103 ………………………………………………………………..………………….……………….Patrick A. Hesp An Early Study of the Comparative Ecology of Atlantic and Pacific Fish Communities 109 …………………………..……………………………………..…… John C. Ogden and Elizabeth H. Gladfelter Offshore Sydney Seabed Mapping ………………..…..…….….…………………...…………………………… 116 ………………………………………………………...….……………………………………. Angus D. Gordon

The 1980s ……………………………………………….………………………………………………..…....…... 123

………………………………………..………….…….…..…….…… Andrew D. Short and Robert W. Brander ‘ The Times They Are a-Changin’ …………………….…………………..………………...... …..……………… 125 …….…. Bernard O. Bauer, Douglas J. Sherman, Robert W. Brander, Philip D. Osborne, and Brian Greenwood The Field Research Facility Research Tower ……..…………..……….………...……………………………… 137 ………………..…..………………………………..……………..…………… Rob A. Holman and Curt Mason 10 Days to the Beach: The 1980 Broome Field Experiments …………………...…...……..…………………... 142 ………………………………………………………………………….……….….…..………. Andrew D. Short A Wedding Ring Lost and Found – A Case of an Extraordinary Coincidence …………………………....….. 147 …………………………...…………………………….………………………..……..…Burghard W. Flemming The Adventures and Peregrinations of the Fabulous Five during Coastal Fieldwork in South Australia … 150 …….…. Antonio P. Belperio, Robert P. Bourman, John H. Cann, Nick Harvey, and Colin V. Murray-Wallace Luck, Technology and a Lot of Talented and Hardy People …………………………...………….………….. 160 …………………………………..……………………………………………...….….……… Malcolm O. Green

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Multidecadal Shoreline Monitoring at Parengarenga, Northern New Zealand: From Dumpy Level to 165 LiDAR ………………………….. Kevin E. Parnell, Peter L. Hosking, Roger F. McLean, and Scott L. Nichol Workers of the World, Unite! ... Against the Groins …………………………………………………….…….. 173 ….…………………….……………………………………………………..…………...... ….… Enzo Pranzini A Mishap on the Nullarbor Plain, South Australia in 1984 ………………………………..…………..…...…. 178 …………………………………………………………………………..……..…...… Douglas G. Fotheringham Shelf Sand Bodies and Submersibles ……………………………………………..………………...…………… 183 ………………………………………………………...…………………..……………..………… John Hudson Sand Ridges, Cheniers and Fieldwork Issues in Muddy Environments ………………..……………..…..….. 189 ……………………….……...………………………………………………….…………...... ……. Nick Harvey Across the Andes at the End of the World ………………………………..………………..………………...…. 194 …………………………………...………..….………... Federico I. Isla, Marcelo Zárate, and Federico E. Vilas Shifting Boulders ……………………….……………………....……..……………………………………..…… 198 ……………………….………………………………….…………………..……..……..……… John McKenna Sailors and Scientists Don’t Mix ……………………………………..……………………..…………………… 201 ……………………………………………………………..….…………… Orrin H. Pilkey and William J. Neal Beach Organisms and Octopuses ………………..………………………..……..………………….…………… 206 ……………………………………………………………………….……………...………… Allan T. Williams Shoreline Surveys during the 1989 Exxon Valdez Oil Spill Response ………………..…………..………...… 211 ……………………………………….…………………………………….……………....…. Edward H. Owens Round and Round Australia (1989 to 2001): 11,761 Beaches ………………….…………………..………….. 216 ….………………………………………………………………….…………………..……….. Andrew D. Short

The 1990s ………………………………………………………………..………………………..…………..…... 226 ………………………………………..………….………………...… Andrew D. Short and Robert W. Brander Box Coring in Metric ………………………………………….……………………....…………………….…… 228 ………………………………………..……………...……...... …… Douglas J. Sherman and Bernard O. Bauer Reporting from the Field …………………..…………………………..…………..……..………………....…… 234 ………………………………………………………………..…………………..………....…… Cornelia Dean The Burley Beach Blow and the Troelsbane ………………………..….………….……..…………………….. 238 ………………….………….………………………..………………………….….…….…… Rowland J. Atkins ‘There’s Camels on the Beach!’ The Nine-Mile Beach, Central Queensland Macrotidal Beach 246 Experiment ………..…….……………….…….…… Robert W. Brander, Gerd Masselink, and Ian L. Turner The Serial Bog: From Trailer to Tractors to Backhoe …..……………………..………..………………...…… 253 ……………………….………………….…………………………………………...…..…. Guilherme C. Lessa 25 Years of Research, Restoration, and Being Stuck in the Mud in the Bay of Fundy, Canada 255 ………………………………... Jeff Ollerhead, Danika van Proosdij, Tony M. Bowron, and Jennie M. Graham An Eventful Field Trip to the Barrier Beaches of Southernmost Brazil ……..……………………….………. 263 ……..…...…. Lauro J. Calliari, Peter S. Rosen, Pedro S. Pereira, Antonio H.F. Klein, and Salette A. Figueiredo

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‘Do You Want the Good News or the Bad News?’ Measuring Rip Currents at Muriwai Beach, New 269 Zealand …………….……………………………...…………….…..……………………… Robert W. Brander Of and Giant Robber Crabs - Rediscovering Niuē Island in the Central Pacific Ocean .. 277 …………….……………………….……………………..…………… James P. Terry and Randolph R. Thaman Bay Beach Surveys (Port Stephens, Australia) ……………………….……………………………….…. 284 ……………………….……………………………………………………………………………. Phil J. Watson

The 2000s …………………………………………………………………………………………………………... 286 ………………………………………..…………………………..…… Andrew D. Short and Robert W. Brander The Scars of Lost Instruments and Parasites ………………………………….…………………..……………. 287 ………………………………………..…………………….………………………………………. Chris Houser A Big Wave at Pouto, Kaipara Harbour, New Zealand ………………………………………………….…….. 291 ……………………….………………………………………………….………………………. Kevin E. Parnell Fresh Avocados and Feisty Otters: Harbor Seal Research in Alaska …………………………………..….….. 295 ……………………….……………………………………………………..……………………… Anna R. Lewis From the Hunter to the Hunted: Reflections of Fieldwork Gone Awry along the Florida Coast …………… 304 ……………………….……………………………………………………..…………..… Christopher Makowski Field Test(s) with Passive Vertical Beach Drainage .………………………………………..……………….….. 311 ……………………….……………………………….…………………………………..……..... Jørgen Fredsøe Travels in the Yucatan, Mexico: Chasing Beach Change after Hurricane Wilma ………………………….. 319 ……………………………………………………...….. David M. Kennedy, Nick Mulcahy, and Paul Blanchon Social Science Research in Remote Coastal Australia: An Appraisal of Field Equipment ………………..… 324 …………………………………………….………………………...…… Anna R. Lewis and Philippa Chandler Fieldwork along Nicaragua's Pacific Coast …………………………………………..…………………….….. 330 …………………………………………………………….……………………………….….. Matthew J. Taylor

The 2010s ………………………………………………………………………………..…………………..……... 335 ………………………………………..……………………………....…… Andrew D. Short and Robert Brander Fieldwork in the Southeast Coast of Brazil …………………………….………………………………..….….... 336 …………………………….…………………….…………….……….………... Giseli Modolo Vieira Machado Tales from an Arctic Beach, Little Shells and Return to the Past - Petuniabukta 2010 Fieldwork, 339 Billefjorden, Svalbard ……………….…...….……………….….... Mateusz C. Strzelecki and Antony J. Long What Do You Mean the Field Site is a Nudist Beach? ……………………………………………………..…… 347 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………..…... Sebastian J. Pitman Floating High Over Beaches and Dunes Without Wing, Chute or Rotor ……………….. Michael A. Kinsela, 351 Thomas C.T. Hubble, Jody M. Webster, Samantha Clarke, Tiago U. Passos, David W. Airey, and David Mitchell Bundlecuss: Cable Entanglement Lessons Learned From a Nor’easter Field Deployment ………………..… 359 ……………………….……………….…………………..……. Jack A. Puleo and Patricia Chardon-Maldonado

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What on Earth?! ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. 364 ……………………….……………………………..…… Damien Sous, Samuel Meulé, and Frédéric Bouchette Flash Rips in Voodoo Land ……………………………………...…………….………………………….……… 368 ……………………………………...……………...……………………………… Bruno Castelle and Tim Scott ‘Do Something!’ A Daring Ocean Rescue by Coastal Fieldworkers on the Oregon Coast ..………………… 377 ……………………….………………………….. Matthew P. Conlin, Katherine A. Serafin, and Peter Ruggiero Rip Current Research in South Florida ……………………….………………………………………………... 384 ……………………….…………………………………………………………..……… Stephen P. Leatherman A Sinking Swamp and an Encounter with a Local Militia Group ………………………….…..……………... 387 ……………………….……………………………………………………………….……. Aroloye O. Numbere Sliding, Sliding, Stuck ˗ Flotsam Tobogganing Down an Interglacial Beach ……………………………..….. 390 ……………………….……………………………………………………….…..………..... Thomas S.N. Oliver Stories of Risk from Rock Fishers on Australia’s Hazardous Rocky Coasts ……………………………..….. 393 …………………………………..…………………...... ….. Peter Kamstra, Brian Cook, and David M. Kennedy Human Interference along the Belgian Coast ………………..………………………..………………………... 398 …………………..…….………………………………………………………………….………. Evelien Brand On the Edge of the Pacific: Reef Island Fieldwork in Isabel Province, Solomon Islands …………………… 401 …………………..…….……….………………………………………………………………. Meagan K. Lowe Backhoe for an Auger …………………..…….……….…………………………………………………………. 406 …………………..…….……….………………………………………………………….… Thomas S.N. Oliver A Story of Four Eggs in Goto Island, Japan …………………..…….……….………………….……………… 409 …………………..…….……….………………………………………………………………. Patricio Winckler A Hard Way to Rocas …………………..……………………….…………………….…………………… 415 ……………………….…………….……………………………………………………..…… Rodolfo J. Angulo Crashing Into Sisterhood: An All-Female Fieldwork Expedition in Moon Point Area, K’gari (Fraser 419 Island, Australia) …….... Rose Barrowcliffe, Sarah McSweeney, Graziela Miot da Silva, and Talitha Santini A Month of Data Collection in Vanuatu: From Scientific Work to Detective Work ……………….………... 425 ……………………………………………………………… Gaëlle Faivre, Jim Aimbie, and Rodger Tomlinson

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FIELD PHOTOS

Destin, Florida, USA, 1971 …………………………………………………….…..…...………..………………… 19 …………………………………………………………………………………………….….… Andrew D. Short Pingok Island, Alaska, 1972 ….…………………………………………………………..………………………. 35 …………………………………………………………………………………………..…...…. Andrew D. Short Akunik Pass, North Alaska, 1974 …………………………………………………….…..…………………….... 69 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Coastal Studies Unit, Sydney, NSW, Australia, 1977 …………………………………………….…..……….... 96 ………………………………………………………………………….……………….…….…. Patrick A. Hesp Bengello Beach, NSW, Australia, 1977 ……...…………………………………………………..……..………... 102 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Flying the Australian Coast, 1978-2007 ….……………………………………………………………..……….. 108 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Canunda National Park, South Australia, 1979 ………………………………………………………..………. 115 …………………………………………...………...……………………..……………………… Patrick A. Hesp Goolwa, South Australia, February 1980 ….……………..……………………………………………………... 124 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Kingston SE, South Australia, March 1980 ….……………………...…………………………….…..………... 136 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Coolatoo, The Coorong, South Australia, November 1980 ……………...……………………….…..……….... 141 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Hawks Nest, NSW, Australia, April 1980 ….……………………………..…………………….……..……….... 146 …………………………………………..……………………………..…………………………. Patrick A. Hesp Goolwa, South Australia, 4 February 1980 ….……………………...……………………………..…..………... 149 ……………………………………………….……………..……………..……………………. Andrew D. Short Cable Beach, Broome, , November 1980 ….……………………………………....………... 159 ……………………………………………….………………………………………….…….... Andrew D. Short Miles, Queensland, Australia, May 1980 ….………………………………...……………………..…..………... 164 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Wymbolwood Beach, Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada, May-June 1982 ……….……..……………….……... 172 …………………………………………………………………….… Bernard O. Bauer and Douglas J. Sherman Ash Wednesday Fires, Victoria, Australia, February 1983 ….………...……………………………..………... 177 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Offshore Sydney, NSW, Australia, March 1984 ….………………………...……………………..…..………... 182 ……………………………………………….…………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Castroville, California, USA – ‘Sounds like a snake to me’ ….………..…...…………..……………….…….... 188 …………………….………………………………………………………………….……... Douglas J. Sherman

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Stanhope Lane Beach, Prince Edward Island, Canada, October 1985 ….…………………………………..... 193 …………………….…………………………………………………………………….…..…. Bernard O. Bauer Dark Point Transverse Dunes, NSW, Australia, 1986 ………………………………………………..………... 197 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Gateway National Recreation Area, , 1987 .………….....…………………………….…..………..... 200 .…………………….…………………………………………..……………………...……. Douglas J. Sherman Bluewater Beach, Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada, May-June 1987 ….………..…………………..……….... 205 ……………………………………….………………………………………………....……. Robert W. Brander Bogged on Palm Beach, NSW, Australia ….……………………………………….……...…………..……….... 210 ……………………………………….……………………………………..……………….…...…. Peter Nielsen Bluewater Beach, Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada, May-June 1987; 1988 ……...…..………………....…...... 215 ……………………………………….………………………...………… Jeff Ollerhead and Robert W. Brander Jet-propelled Coastal Biker Gang, Texel, The Netherlands, July 1989 ……………………………..……….... 225 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Egmond van Zee, The Netherlands, July 1989 – ‘Come on board!’ ….…………………………….…..……… 227 ……………………….……………………………………………………..…………..………. Andrew D. Short Narrabeen Beach, NSW, Australia, 1989 ….……………...………………………………….………..………... 233 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Castroville, California, USA, circa 1990 ………… ……………………………………………….…..……….... 237 ………………….………….………………...……………………… Bernard O. Bauer and Douglas J. Sherman Louisa Creek, Queensland, 1992 ….……………………………………………………..……………..………... 252 ……………………….………………….…………………………………………..……...……. Gerd Masselink Conceição Lighthouse, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, 1999 ….……………………………..……………….……. 276 ……………………….………………………………………………………………….………. Andrew D. Short Northern Australia, August 2001 ….……………………...…………………………………………….……….. 290 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Baa Atoll, The Maldives, 2002-2003 ………………………………………………………….………..……….... 303 ……………………….…………………………………...…………………………………... Robert W. Brander of Mexico, Southwest Florida, USA, 2003-2009 …………………………..……………………..………... 310 …………………….…………………………………………………..………..…...…..... Christopher Makowski Shark Diving, Jupiter, Florida, USA, 2005 ….………………………………………………………………….. 318 …………………….………………………………………………...…………………..... Christopher Makowski Shelly Beach, Central Coast, NSW and North , NSW, Australia, 2011-2012 ………………. 346 ……………………….………………………………………………………… P. Rynne and Robert W. Brander Gaivatos Beach, Santa Catarina, Brazil, April 2013 ….………………………………..…………………..…... 350 …………………….……………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil, 2013 ….……………………………………………….…...…………..…...……... 358 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short

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Jericoacoara, Brazil, 2013 ….…………...…………………………………………..…………………..………... 363 …………………….………………………………………………………...………………. Douglas J. Sherman Lifeguard Tower, Forte Beach, Santa Catarina, Brazil, 2013 ……………..…….…………….…….……….... 367 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Grand Popo, Benin, West Africa, March 2014 ….………..…………………………………………..……….... 376 ……………………….………………………………………………………………….………... Bruno Castelle Amazon , North , 2014 …..……………………………………………….……..………... 383 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Bridge Crossing, Patinga, BA, Brazil, 2015 ….………………………………………….……………..……….. 386 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………………. Andrew D. Short Saint-Louis, Sénégal, West Africa, December 2016 …………………………………….…...………..………... 392 ……………………….…………………………………………………………………..………… Bruno Castelle Hallsands, Start Bay, UK, February 2018 ….…… ……………………………..……………………..………... 414 …………………….…………….………………………………...……………………..………… Jak McCarroll Nullarbor Cliffs, South Australia, 2019 ….……………………………………………………………..……….. 431 ……………………….………………………………………………..……..…. S. Detmar and Andrew D. Short

ivx Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 101, 2020

INTRODUCTION

Many of us like to relate interesting field stories when we get together with colleagues, particularly when back out in the field. It’s a tradition going back as far as the first researchers who ventured to the coast to try and fathom just what was going on and returned to tell the tale – both good news and bad. Field trips are usually a combination of both because, as the sayings go, ‘Anything deployed in the surf or over the side of a boat should be considered expendable’ and ‘Anything that can go wrong in the field usually will.’ Add to this crashing waves, changing , strong currents, howling wind, saltwater and sea spray, soft sediments, the hard and jagged surfaces of rock platforms and coral reefs, dangerous fauna (including people) and the seemingly always unpredictable and uncontrollable weather and you have the perfect recipe for various issues to arise. With these words of encouragement, it's a wonder any coastal fieldwork has been successful. However, successful it has been and fieldwork has formed the core of our ability to increasingly understand the nature and dynamics of coastal environments.

All involved in fieldwork, whether working solo or in a team, have no doubt experienced some of these issues, many examples of which are documented in this Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) Special Issue: the loss of gear, equipment breakdown or burial, vehicle bogging, horrendous cable tangles, encounters with sharks, crocodiles, bears and sometimes worse (bugs), being washed overboard or throwing equipment overboard without tying it off, running out of SCUBA air while being dragged to the seabed by a submarine …. the list goes on and on. None of these issues are usually intentional, but are often a result of the nature of the environment sometimes coupled with a mix of inexperience, overambitious intentions and hubris. Roald Amunsden once said that, ‘Adventure is just bad planning,’ but when it comes to coastal fieldwork sometimes even the best laid plans can come unstuck due to processes beyond our control. You can plan for years for a field experiment, but if the waves are too small they provide nothing to monitor, and when the wind doesn’t blow, aeolian measurements become exercises in futility.

Most people think of the coast, particularly beaches, as a relaxing recreational experience full of surf, sun and sand. For coastal researchers, the surf is both your friend (scientifically) and enemy as it can demolish and cartwheel seemingly indestructible gear away, never to be seen again, and punish fieldworkers by dumping them, nearly drowning them, and carrying them to places they don’t want to be. The sun can be relentless, burning any exposed flesh, while sand will get into every orifice and bit of sensitive equipment and, when coupled with salt, will ensure electronic equipment has a short lifespan. Then, when you enter the water there are the six ‘s’s’ (at least in Australia where we are both based), which are sharks, stingers (jellyfish), stingrays, sea snakes, stonefish and salties (saltwater crocodiles). Fieldwork can also be a health hazard with cuts and grazes, often to exposed skin, leading to infections, particularly in the tropics. Many who have worked in remote areas or less developed countries have experienced illnesses resulting from poor hygiene and food.

Most coastal researchers tend to learn the hard way what is achievable and what is not and how to do, and not do, things in the field. After all, there are few formal courses on how to carry out coastal fieldwork. Field excursions are as close as many undergraduate students will get, while graduate students may (or may not) get some guidance from their supervisors or colleagues. Most fieldwork knowledge is therefore experiential and it is therefore no surprise that mistakes and problems of the past are often repeated, which is why fieldwork DOI: 10.2112/JCR-SI101-Introduction ©Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2020 xi Short and Brander collaborations are so important – so we can learn from collective experience. There is nothing easy about coastal fieldwork and it can also be extremely stressful for those in charge of it, or who are dependent on obtaining a successful dataset.

In confronting and dealing with these fieldwork issues, people find out as much about the field and fieldwork as they do about themselves and their colleagues, both for better or worse. The close collaborations and hard work, often conducted in remote locations and extreme conditions, more often than not lead to lifelong friendships. However, fieldwork is not for everyone and many eventually leave and move on with their careers and lives. For others, conducting fieldwork is not only the most important part of their job, but the best part and they not only thrive, but seem to derive perverse enjoyment from the challenges of coastal fieldwork. It could be argued that those who stay involved in fieldwork through the years and decades develop not only a far greater insight into the nature of the environments they are investigating, but also an ability to undertake their work most expeditiously, with a minimum of fuss and energy.

Apart from obtaining field data and the satisfaction of improving our knowledge of coastal science, a career of fieldwork has other advantages. There is the opportunity to travel and work in a range of geographic locations, from the tropics to polar regions, from beaches where the rainforest merges onto pristine white sand, to bare desert coasts where the sand dunes seem endless, and to extremely remote natural coastal environments, where you often feel like the only person on the planet. Coastal field researchers also have the added bonus of spending many hours, days, weeks with colleagues in situ, planning the day’s work, discussing results, generating new ideas and at the end of the day perhaps relaxing over a few ales and telling a few stories.

The idea for this collection of coastal field stories derived from our own enjoyment of coastal fieldwork and involvement in numerous field trips and experiments during our careers, some of which are related in this JCR Special Issue, and our realisation that if they are not recorded they will be eventually lost forever. So, with this in mind, we invited all and sundry to contribute to this special issue and were overwhelmed with 107 coastal researchers sharing their experiences across 78 different ‘Stories from the Field.’ The stories take place in 22 countries, every continent apart from Antarctica, every ocean, and many seas and lakes. Of course, this JCR Special Issue #101 contains just a snapshot of all the stories that are out there, but it hopefully provides a unique documentation of the history and progression of coastal fieldwork and certainly some of the key characters involved over the last 50 years (1970-2020, with a little bit of the 1960s as a bonus). We have organised the stories by decade, with each prefaced by a short (and certainly not comprehensive) summary of the main developments in the world of coastal research during those decades. There are also 45 Field Photos spread throughout the issue that help capture more of the flavour of coastal fieldwork. While the Field Photos are mostly ours, we did put out numerous calls for submissions, so please don’t accuse us of self-indulgence – we could have put in more!

We both particularly wish to acknowledge and express our gratitude to Chris Makowski, the Editor-in-Chief for the Journal of Coastal Research (JCR), and to Charlie Finkl, the Founder and Creator of the JCR, who both supported this special issue and showed remarkable patience and editorial insight throughout the whole process. JCR Special Issue #101 would not have been possible without their efforts and we now have a new respect for anyone who edits an entire journal! We would also like to thank all our other academic mentors, colleagues, friends and students who we have worked with in the field over the

xii Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 101, 2020 years – too many to mention here, but if you are reading this, you know who you are. Finally, we would like to extend a big thank you to all the coastal researchers who contributed to this special issue and helped capture the essence of coastal fieldwork. It’s obvious that we all have fantastic stories to tell and we hope there will be more to come in the future.

-Andy Short and Rob Brander (Moruya Heads, Australia, July 2020)

A Note from Andy I decided to become a coastal scientist during my first year at university when I discovered you could study beaches. Being a surfer this sounded great. My actual coastal fieldwork began in 1967 at Copacabana-Macmaster Beach, just north of Sydney during fieldwork for my honours thesis. I have since had the opportunity to conduct fieldwork (chronologically) in Hawaii, north Alaska, USA, Brazil, the entire Australian coast, New Zealand, the Netherlands and Ireland, as well as visiting many other coasts as part of field trips and field excursions. In the process, I met many coastal fieldworkers and made many great friends. During this period I have also witnessed considerable transformation in our ability to do, and the way we do, fieldwork. However, even with the increasing equipment sophistication and often detachment from the field site, in order to gain a true appreciation of the coast one needs not just to observe and monitor, but to see and feel it, to get sand between the toes and feel the power of waves as they throw you around, or rips as they drag you seaward, to be there and see the sand being stripped by storm events, or beaches being gently rebuilt by low swell – essentially to see what is actually going on.

All of my stories and many of the following stories took place before Occupational Health and Safety (OH&S) was dropped on us and the fun police set up rules to control and constrain field activity, rules setup by bureaucrats who may have never put a toe in the water and couldn’t tell the difference between an alligator and a crocodile. If these rules had been in place from 1970, many of these stories may not have occurred. Fortunately, my academic career finished as the rules were coming in and I never had to fill in an OH&S form, a hazard assessment or a dive log book. After 54 years of continuous fieldwork, I never lost or injured anyone (maybe an odd stitch here or there and a couple of broken student collarbones) and sympathise with my colleagues who today have to operate under such draconian conditions. As a result of this, and new technology, the golden age of coastal fieldwork is now regrettably behind us. This book provides a small insight into how fieldwork was done before OH&S, before mobile phones, satellites and digital, video and drone cameras and before many of today’s high-tech instruments and sensors existed. Still, the work was done (more manually) and great strides were made in the coastal field. We went and did battle with the coast and all its idiosyncrasies, survived, published and went back for more!

A Note from Rob It’s fair to say that conducting coastal fieldwork has had a massive impact on both my academic career and life, and I’m sure I’m not alone in that regard. As an undergraduate student taking a first year Physical Geography course taught by Brian Greenwood at the University of Toronto, it was his slides relating to fieldwork that really grabbed my interest and eventually led to me working with him as a grunt SCUBA diver in his Georgian Bay experiments in the late 1980s. Being young, naïve and a rookie in my first two month field experiment, I expected to learn and be challenged, but I did not anticipate the storytelling relating to previous fieldwork lore that dominated much of the down time and, for me, transformed some of the central characters and incidents into near mythical figures and legends. While this may not have been everyone’s experience in the field, it was the storytelling and camaraderie that I enjoyed the most. And of course, the fieldwork itself.

xiii Short and Brander

However, when it comes to coastal fieldwork, the times are indeed changing. Over the last few decades, it seemed to me that due to various logistical advances, much of the time normally spent storytelling into the wee hours, while re-hydrating after a hard day’s work in the field, was now spent downloading and analysing data. While this led to better scientific outcomes, the overall field experience just didn’t seem the same (which shows how shallow a scientist I am). It occurred to me that we were losing a valuable part of fieldwork and that led to the genesis of the idea to capture some of these stories – not just for their entertainment value, but to record the history of coastal fieldwork and just how challenging, crazy, frustrating, dangerous and rewarding it can be. Like many of us, the fact that we work in coastal environments is often seen by others as a bit of a lark, which clearly it is not (all of the time).

I was fortunate to end up doing my Ph.D. in the Coastal Studies Unit at the University of Sydney under Andy’s supervision in the mid-1990s. Andy is a master storyteller and he immediately saw the value in doing this JCR Special Issue. I’d like to thank Andy for not only co-ordinating and doing a huge amount of work editing this issue, but for also being a mentor during much of my career. Finally, I have read each of the stories many times over (and some made me chuckle every time) and if you find any editing mistakes, I sincerely apologize, as they are probably mine.

The guest editors of JCR Special Issue #101, Andy Short (right) and Rob Brander (left), in their element at Mollymook Beach on the south coast of New South Wales, Australia on July 7, 2020. (Photo: Layla and Ivy Brander.)

xiv JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH An International Forum for the Littoral Sciences COASTAL EDUCATION AND RESEARCH FOUNDATION (CERF)

CHEF-HERAUSGEBER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF RÉDACTEUR-EN-CHEF 7570 NW 47th Avenue Coconut Creek, FL 33073, U.S.A. Christopher Makowski, Ph.D. Officers of the Foundation Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. (CERF) Founded in 1983 by: Charles W. Finkl, Sr. (Deceased), Editorial Offices: Charles W. Finkl, Jnr., Rhodes W. Fairbridge (Deceased), 313 S. Braeside Court 7570 NW 47th Avenue (Business Office, Coconut Creek) and Maurice L. Schwartz (Deceased) Asheville, NC Coconut Creek, FL Website: www.CERF-JCR.org President & Senior Vice President & 28803, U.S.A. 33073, U.S.A. E-mail: [email protected] Executive Director: Assistant Director: Charles W. Finkl Christopher Makowski EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EMERITUS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT BOOK REVIEW EDITOR WEB DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT Secretary: Executive Assistant: Charles W. Finkl Barbara Russell Luciana S. Esteves Jon Finkl Heather M. Vollmer Barbara Russell Coastal Education and Research Coastal Education and Research Faculty of Science and Technology Media Mine Foundation, Inc. (CERF) Foundation, Inc. (CERF) Bournemouth University 17600 River Ford Drive CERF-JCR Regional Vice Presidents 313 S. Braeside Court 7570 NW 47th Avenue Dorset, England, U.K. Davidson, NC 28036, U.S.A. North America Oceania Asheville, NC 28803, U.S.A. Coconut Creek, FL 33073, U.S.A. [email protected] [email protected] Gary B. Griggs Charles Lemckert CERF-JCR MEMBERSHIP [email protected] [email protected] James R. Houston Anja Scheffers Timothy W. Kana Vic Semeniuk Society members are those individuals that support the aims of Norberto C. Nadal-Caraballo Andrew D. Short CERF and the JCR. More information is available at: www.cerf-jcr. MITHERAUSGEBER ASSOCIATE EDITORS COMITÉ DE REDACTION Western Europe Southeast Asia org. CERF-JCR Memberships are available in different categories with Edward J. Anthony Duncan M. FitzGerald Vladimir N. Kosmynin Phil D. Osborne Vallam Sundar Luciana S. Esteves Hak Soo Lim certain privileges and can be viewed at: https://cerf.allenpress.com/ Coastal Geomorphology Sediment Transport Coral Reefs, Coastal Ecology Sediment Dynamics Coastal Engineering cerf/MEMBERSHIP.aspx Dunkerque, France Boston, Massachusetts Tallahassee, Florida Vancouver, BC, Canada Carlos Pereira da Silva Zhenling Liu Chennai, India Marcel J.F. Stive Nobuo Mimura Patrick Barnard Kazimierz K. Furman´czyk Michael J. Lace Hugh Parker Ana Teodoro Subscription information is available upon request by writing to: Marine Cartography Coastal Landforms & Processes Airborne Lidar Bathymetry Coastal Geomorphology Remote Sensing Santa Cruz, California Szczecin, Poland West Branch, Iowa Adelaide, SA, Australia Eastern Europe South America [email protected]. The CERF-JCR subscriptions office is located at: Porto, Portugal Natalia Bugajny Allen Gontz Stephen P. Leatherman Charitha B. Pattiaratchi Niki Evelpidou Vanda Claudino-Sales Allen Press, Inc., P.O. Box 1897, Lawrence, KS 66044, U.S.A. Coastal Geomorphology Geophysics, Stratigraphy Barrier Islands, Beach Erosion Physical Oceanography E. Robert Thieler Kazimierz K. Furman´czyk Omar Defeo Szczecin, Poland San Diego, California Miami, Florida Crawley, WA, Australia Marine Geology Middle East and N. Africa Editor-in-Chief M. Paula Bunicontro Gary B. Griggs Jay Jooyong Lee Carlos Pereira da Silva Woods Hole, Massachusetts Coastal Geomorphology Coastal Engineering & Hazards Rip Currents, Coastal Hazards Coastal Zone Management Hannes Tõnisson Michael Phillips Christopher Makowski, Ph.D. Lisbon, Portugal Buenos Aires, Argentina Santa Cruz, California Busan, Republic of Korea Coastal Evolution Michael Phillips Dr. Christopher Makowski is the Senior Vice President and As- David M. Bush Pramod Hanamgond Charles Lemckert Tallinn, Estonia Board of Directors (Trustees) Coastal Geomorphology Environmental Fluid Dynamics Coastal Geomorphology Vanda Claudino-Sales Stephen P. Leatherman Vic Semeniuk sistant Director of the Coastal Education and Research Foundation Coastal Geology & Hazards Doha, Qatar Arthur C. Trembanis Carrollton, Georgia Belgaum, India Bruce, ACT, Australia (CERF), the official publisher of the international Journal of Coastal Orrin H. Pilkey, Jr. Coastal Morphodynamics Charles W. Finkl Charles Lemckert Douglas J. Sherman Ilya V. Buynevich Hans Hanson Hak Soo Lim Duncan M. FitzGerald Gonzalo C. Malvárez Andrew D. Short Coastal Protection Hydrodynamics, Coastal Coastal Geology Newark, Delaware Research (JCR). He received B.Sc. (Marine Biology), M.Sc. (Marine Eco- Coastal Geology Durham, North Carolina Gary B. Griggs Christopher Makowski Daniel J. Stanley Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Lund, Sweden Engineering Frank Van Der Meulen system Diversity), and Ph.D. (Coastal Geoscience and Remote Sensing Busan, Republic of Korea Nobert P. Psuty James R. Houston Carlos Pereira da Silva Marcel J.F. Stive Javier A. Carrió Simon Haslett Coastal Zone Management of Biogeomorphological Resources) degrees from Florida Atlantic Uni- Paleoceanography Ioannis Liritzis Coastal Geomorphology Delft, The Netherlands Robert Huff Michael Phillips Phil Watson Sediment Processes New Brunswick, New Jersey versity of Boca Raton, Florida, USA, and has worked for over 25 years Valencia, Spain Swansea, Wales, UK Geophysical Proxy Data, Ana Vila Concejo Timothy W. Kana Norbert P. Psuty Michael Hilton Archaeometry Elijah W. Ramsey, III in the coastal research community, holding titles of Assistant Direc- Insik Chun Coastal Morphodynamics Joseph T. Kelley Elijah W. Ramsey, III Dune Geomorphology & Ecology Rhodes, Greece Coastal Image Processing tor (Coastal Planning & Engineering’s Marine Science and Biological Coastal Engineering Dunedin, New Zealand Lafayette, Louisiana Sydney, NSW, Australia Seoul, Republic of Korea J. Paul Liu Lifetime Members Research Department), Principal Marine Scientist (Collier County, James R. Houston Sea-Level Change, Deltas Tiffany Roberts Briggs Ian J. Walker Vanda Claudino-Sales Sea-Level Change Raleigh, North Carolina Coastal Geomorphology Coastal Dunes & Sediments Camilo M. Botero Tetsuya Kusuda Nelson G. Rangel- Florida, USA), and Senior Advisor (International Coastal Symposium Coastal Dynamics, Dunes Boca Raton, Florida Vicksburg, Mississippi Zhenling Liu Tempe, Arizona David M. Bush Stephen P. Leatherman Buitrago [ICS]). Dr. Makowski has published numerous peer reviewed papers, Ceará, Brazil Kirt Rusenko Wenrui Huang Sustainable Development, Ping Wang Frédéric Bouchette Charles Lemckert Yoshiki Saito authored multiple chapters, and co-edited various volumes in Spring- Mark Crowell Energy Economics Sea Turtles, Dune Restoration Coastal Hydrodynamics Boca Raton, Florida Beach Morphodynamics Yong-Sik Cho J. Paul Liu Anja Scheffers Coastal Zone Management Tallahassee, Florida Zhengzhou, China er's Coastal Research Library (CRL) Series and Encyclopedia of Earth McLean, Virginia Daniele Scarponi Tampa, Florida Nicholas K. Coch Gonzalo C. Malvárez Andrew D. Short Federico I. Isla Michel M. de Mahiques Sciences Series (EESS). In addition to these accomplishments, he is Omar Defeo Sediment Processes Marine Paleoecology Phil Watson Hany Elwany Norberto C. Nadal- Rodolfo Silva Sea-Level Change Bologna, Italy professionally recognized by the American Academy of Underwater Sandy Beach Ecology Mar Del Plata, Argentina São Paulo, Brazil Sea-Level Change Kazimierz K. Caraballo Charles Thibault Montevideo, Uruguay Anja Scheffers Gosford, NSW, Australia Furmanczyk Fatima Navas Erik van Wellen Sciences (AAUS) and is certified as a Master Scuba Diver Trainer Nancy L. Jackson Gonzalo C. Malvárez Coastal Hazards, Joseph F. Donoghue Coastal Geomorphology Beach Morphodynamics Harry F. Williams Allen Gontz Philip D. Osborne Ya Ping Wang through the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI), Coastal Morphology & Hazards Palaeoclimatology Newark, New Jersey Seville, Spain Lismore, NSW, Australia Paleotempestology having logged over 2,000 underwater dives on six different continents. Orlando, Florida Carl H. Hobbs, III Michael Phillips Allan T. Williams Markes E. Johnson Nobuo Mimura Vic Semeniuk Denton, Texas Paul S. Kench Orrin H. Pilkey, Jr. Robert S. Young Other professional registrations, certifications, and accreditations in- Jean Ellis Paleoshores, Coastal Sand Dunes Environmental Engineering Mangroves Colin D. Woodroffe Björn Kjerfve Norbert P. Psuty Wei Zhang clude: Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) Board of Aeolian Sediment Transport Williamstown, Massachusetts Ibaraki, Japan Perth, WA, Australia Columbia, South Carolina Coastal Geomorphology Victor V. Klemas Directors (Trustees), BioOne Board of Directors, International Society Timothy Kana Norberto C. Nadal-Caraballo Douglas J. Sherman Wollongong, NSW, Australia Hany Elwany Coastal Science & Engineering Coastal Hazards for Reef Studies (ISRS) Member, Florida Association of Environmental Coastal & Aeolian Geomorphology Zhaoqing Yang Patron Members Coastal Engineering, Columbia, South Carolina Vicksburg, Mississippi Tuscaloosa, Alabama Hydrodynamic Modeling Georges Chapalain John W. Jenson Timothy W. Kana Professionals (FAEP) Chapter Member, American Academy of Under- Oceanography Dieter H. Kelletat Fatima Navas Andrew D. Short La Jolla, California Coastal Geomorphology Coastal Morphodynamics Coastal Geomorphology Seattle, Washington water Sciences (AAUS) Registered Diving Safety Officer, American Luciana Esteves Essen/Cologne, Germany Seville, Spain Sydney, NSW, Australia Robert S. Young Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS) Member, National Coastal Flooding & Erosion Joseph T. Kelley Robert Nicholls Pravi Shrestha Coastal Processes CERF-JCR Society Information Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) Certified Marine Mammal and Pro- Bournemouth, England, UK Sea-Level Change Global Coastal Engineering Cullowhee, North Carolina Orono, Maine Southampton, England, UK The Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) is a non- tected Species Observer, Professional Association of Diving Instructors Niki Evelpidou Irvine, California Guoliang Yu Sea-Level Change, profit research society dedicated to the advancement of the coastal (PADI) Open Water Scuba Diver Instructor, PADI Enriched Air Nitrox Björn Kjerfve Karl F. Nordstrom Tom Spencer Sediment Transport Palaeogeography Physical Oceanography, Wetlands Coastal Geomorphology Biogeomorphology sciences and serves as the official publisher of the international Jour- Shangai, China Specialty Instructor, Emergency First Responder (CPR/FirstAid/AED) Athens, Greece College Station, Texas New Brunswick, New Jersey Cambridge, England, UK nal of Coastal Research (JCR). CERF-JCR is devoted to the multi- Saiyu Yuan Instructor, PADI Specialty Underwater Photographer Instructor, and Oscar Manuel Ferreira Nobuhisa Kobayashi Julian Orford Marcel Stive disciplinary study of complex problems related to the coastal zone. Storm Impacts Coastal Engineering Gravel Beaches, Storm Events Coastal Hydrodynamics Water Flow, Sediment Transport Divers Alert Network (DAN) Sustaining Member. Faro, Portugal Newark, Delaware Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK Delft, The Netherlands Nanjing, China Our purpose is to help in the translation and interpretation of coastal issues for the public and to assist professional and academic research For more information, please visit Dr. Makowski's home page at: programs by supporting and encouraging field and laboratory studies www.cerf-jcr.org on a local, national, and global basis. Through printed scientific pub- lications, current online content, and renowned international sym- International Coastal Symposium (ICS) posiums, CERF-JCR brings accurate information to both the public Official Meeting of CERF-JCR and researchers alike on all aspects of coastal issues in an effort to The International Coastal Symposium (ICS) was originally set up maintain and improve the quality of shoreline resources. by Per Bruun (deceased) and Charles W. Finkl as the official meeting The Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) is one of the leading inter- national journals for coastal studies and processes, and is published of the Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) and the bi-monthly by the Coastal Education and Research Foundation Journal of Coastal Research (JCR), with one of the first meetings be- (CERF). By covering the entire field of coastal research, the JCR ing held in Hilton Head, South Carolina, in 1993. After the repeated encompasses all subjects relevant to natural and engineered envi- success of these meetings, CERF-JCR moved the ICS to an interna- THE JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH (JCR) (ISSN 0749–0208) IS PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY FOR $115.00 FOR INDIVIDUAL US CERF MEMBERS, $125.00 ronments (i.e. freshwater, brackish, or marine) and the protection/ tional platform by holding these conferences in conjunction with local FOR INDIVIDUAL INTERNATIONAL CERF MEMBERS, $519.00 FOR US INSTITUTIONS, AND $541.00 FOR INTERNATIONAL INSTITUTIONS BY THE management of their resources in the vicinity of coastlines around sponsors in Australia, Brazil, Iceland, New Zealand, Northern Ireland, COASTAL EDUCATION AND RESEARCH FOUNDATION, INC. (CERF), 7570 NW 47TH AVENUE, COCONUT CREEK, FL 33073–2723. PERIODICALS POST- the world. Even though the journal broadly focuses on immediate Poland, Portugal, and South Korea. The ICS brings together delegates AGE PAID AT FORT LAUDERDALE, FL AND ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO JOURNAL OF COASTAL shoreline zones, the JCR also embraces those coastal environments from all over the world to collaborate and discuss the most current RESEARCH, ALLEN PRESS ASSOCIATION MANAGEMENT, P.O. BOX 1897, LAWRENCE, KS 66044–3018. that either reach some indefinite distance inland or that extend sea- coastal research studies and projects. During the ICS 2014, which was q 2020 Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. [CERF]. ward beyond the outer margins of the sublittoral (neritic) zone. We held in Durban, South Africa, a grand celebration took place to mark encourage you to visit www.cerf-jcr.org for more information and the 30th Anniversary of CERF and the JCR. For more information, a This paper meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (Permanence of Paper). invite you all to be a part of our CERF-JCR coastal research society. please visit www.cerf-jcr.org. Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) CERF Stories from the Field

SPECIAL ISSUE NO. 101 (pages 1–432) SUMMER 2020 50 Years of Coastal Fieldwork: 1970-2020 ISSN 0749-0208 of Coastal Research (JCR) Journal

Guest Editors: Andrew D. Short and Robert W. Brander

Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue #101 SI www.cerf-jcr.org www.JCRonline.org 101 An International Forum for the Littoral Sciences Christopher Makowski Official Publisher Editor-in-Chief