CONFERENCE COVERAGE ISSUE 2016 Grande Dame Joan Nathan

WINTER 2016

CONFERENCE COVERAGE ISSUE 2016 Grande Dame Joan Nathan. Roberta Morrell at Autumn Affair. Keynote Speaker Carla Hall.

ON THE COVER: Charleston L-R Front: Belinda Smith-Sullivan, Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree, Paige Crone, Jennifer Goldman. Second row: Celia Cerasoli, Deidre Schipani, Sarah Graham, Beth Price. Back row: Susan Slack, Danielle Wecksler, Donna Gustafson, Nancie McDermott. Photos Right, Top: Libba Osborne, Jen Kulick, Cappie Pete, Katherine Frankstone, Lauren Mitterer, Marion Sullivan. Cover photo, Charleston house: Sandy Hu.

FROM THE EDITOR Recipe for Success WINTER 2 O16 “It’s not about magnolias and sweet tea, although a little sugar never hurt anyone...” South Carolina Poet laureate Marjory Wentworth, “Here is Where We Eat the Sun.” During the General Session Welcome of the 2015 Charleston annual IN THIS ISSUE Conference, Deidre Schipani read Marjory Wentworth’s soulful ode to the 10th Charleston Wine + Food Festival. Inspired by local James Beard FEATURES chefs, Marjory says the idea of this poem comes down to ingredients. Th e “Holy City’s” grand cuisine developed from a distinctive mélange of 4 A Dame in Ecoffier's Kitchen indispensable ingredients within certain geographical boundaries. Th e right mix of ingredients is also why the annual Conference 5 Thanks from Charleston was such a success and rising to new heights, like Carrie Morey’s hot Charleston biscuits! Key ingredients included: 6 Pre Conference Events • Record-breaking attendance with 350 participants. • Generous business partners. Reach out with appreciation for their 10 Presidents Dinner participation and invaluable support. • Conference advisory Committee: Jennifer Goldman and Paige 12 Opening Reception Crone, Deidre Schipani, Danielle Wecksler, Libba Osborne; the Keynote Speaker Charleston Board; Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree; committee 13 chairs; and the membership. 14 An Autumn Affair • “History, Hospitality, and How-To”—Sessions on leadership and legal issues; chapter toolkits; top-notch educational speakers off ering new 16 Concurrent Sessions perspectives, interaction, savvy social media techniques, and opportunities to immediately implement concepts learned at conference. 21 A Taste of Charleston • Keynote Speaker Carla Hall’s heartfelt message of enthusiasm, motivation, and laughter connected instantly with the audience. au- 22 Partners' Showcase Luncheon thenticity is the quality she values most. She councils, “Stay authentic Green Tables and be your true self,” and “Own your beauty—be authentic!” On 24 celebrity, she says, “I take it all with a grain of salt.” another pearl of 25 Chapter Photos wisdom: “Get to know your palate…understand what you like to do and be fi rmly rooted in that.” Carla advises Dames to “learn some- 28 M.F.K. Fisher Awards thing new everyday.” She adds, “Success is doing the things you love.” Presentation • lDEI’s newest Grande Dame Joan Nathan—philanthropist, culinary expert, historian, and role model. 29 Legacy Awards Luncheon My appreciation goes to the Dames, and also Mike Mathes, who contributed articles and photos to this issue; to Maryanne Muller 30 Grande Dame Award Banquet (Boston) for graciously assisting at Middleton Place; and to gifted designers Bernie Mudd White and Joni Keith. DEPARTMENTS Th irty years ago, in 1986, lDEI started with fi ve chapters and 225 Dames. Th ere are 36 chapters today—six formed in 2015—and cur- 32 Chapter News rently 2,100 Dames. Mexico Chapter joins our international chapters British Columbia and london. Can Scotland be far behind? Th ere are 36 Member Milestones still mountains to climb, but at conference, lDEI Founder Carol Brock expressed her elation over the growth of the organization, “Dames shout 39 Submission Guidelines it out... onward and upward!” —Susan Fuller Slack, Editor, Winter Quarterly

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PResident's Message 2016 LDEI Board of Directors The mission of the LDEI Board is to We are the Architects of our History foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the It is with great honor that I write my first development of new and existing chapters President’s message with a summary of our great and by implementing program initiatives. Charleston Conference—“Southern Hospitality” It provides leadership, guidance, at its best. Having visited Charleston two years education, connectivity, and effective ago when the Board and the Charleston Chapter communication among LDEI members. were searching for the perfect conference hotel, President to experience the end result was truly special. Maria Gomez-Laurens Manager, Hospitality, HelmsBriscoe From the Leadership Forum to the breakout 11241 Avenida del Gato sessions and events out of the hotel, the count- San Diego, CA 92126 less hours of planning and hard work by the (858) 633-7515 | [email protected] Charleston Chapter were evident. The Friday First Vice President night riverside event was spectacular with great Stacy Zeigler Director of Sales, Bold American Events food, energetic dancing to live music, and great 2929 Surrey Lane singing by some talented Dames. Congratu- Atlanta, GA 30341 lations to Conference Chair Paige Crone, Presi- (678) 302-3232 | [email protected] dent Jennifer Goldman, and every Charleston Second Vice President Dame. Thank you for an amazing and memo- taken successfully to Guatemala. Ann Stratte Congratulations to the six Legacy Award win- Owner, My Personal Chef rable conference. 100 Severn Avenue, #506 “Own your Power.” Speakers with strong ners and the Dames who hosted each of them Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 messages provided us with great tools to help for a lifetime learning experience. We thank the (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] us—not only as professionals but also as Julia Child Foundation for their continuing Third Vice President women. Some of the statements that resonate financial contribution and support. Hayley Jo Matson-Mathes The culmination of our conference came at the Owner/Culinary Consultant in my mind are from our keynote speaker, 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 Carla Hall (Washington, D.C.), who sprinkled Saturday banquet as we gathered to recognize Honolulu, HI 96826 stardust on us. Her message to us was power- and honor the extraordinary work of Grande (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] ful, inspirational, and emotional: “Own your Dame Joan Nathan (Washington, D.C.). We Secretary Power” and “There is no mistake we are here are truly honored to add yet another amazing BEV SHAFFER woman to the list of incredible Grande Dames. Vitamix World Headquarters today.” And sure enough, there is no mistake 3433 Blake Road that we broke our attendance record again this Throughout this wonderful conference, we Seville, OH 44273 year; 350 Dames and guests attended! had the presence and support of our amazing (440) 781-7202 | bev.foodwithattitude@gmail. “Inspire, Ignite, and Impact.” Our Chapter and generous partners—those returning and com Board Liaisons, Deborah Mintcheff(New new ones. Thank you for all you do. We look Treasurer forward to seeing you in Washington, D.C. Deborah Orrill York), Deborah Orrill (Dallas), and Bev Shaffer Culinary Consultant (Cleveland), coordinated a wonderful Leadership Returning home, it took me a few extra days 64 Vanguard Way Forum. Each chapter received an educational to absorb this wonderful conference experience. Dallas, TX 75243 package including LDEI’s Public Relations Man- Your LDEI Board will continue the great stra- (214) 343-0124 | [email protected] ual—created by Third Vice President Hayley tegic vision and mission of our past presidents Chapter Board Liaisons Judith Bellos Matson-Mathes (Hawaii); Chapter Guidelines; while focusing on financial growth, new chapter CES & Judy's Catering/Benito's Gelato/Arctic and “Robert Rules of Order Quick Study.” Rox- development, branding, and, yes, of course, Dairy anne Kaufman Elliott’s delightful presentation celebrating LDEI’s 30th anniversary. This will 10405 Clayton Road focused on how to create a written plan for any be a year to remember! St. Louis, MO 63131 Attendees, bring the message, “Own your (314) 524-0869 | [email protected] goal, personal or professional. Her key aspects Kathy Gold were “Inspire, Ignite, and Impact.” Thanks to Power,” back to your chapters. Continue the The Cooking Company/ Alice Gautsch Foreman (Seattle) and Brock wonderful work you do. Remember the reasons In The Kitchen Cooking School Circle members for their financial contribution you joined LDEI. It is through our passion, 10 Mechanic Street love, vision, respect, support of one another, Haddonfield, NJ 08033 in making this great educational event possible. (609) 206-4511 | [email protected] and commitment, that we will keep growing. “Don’t be afraid to seek out mentors and be Deborah Mintcheff inspired by them, especially if it’s your own We are the architects of our history and the Live Forward Coaching mom,” said Erin Byers Murray (Nashville), this creators of the legacy for future generations. I 129 East 69th Street year’s M.F.K. Fisher Award winner. Congratula- look forward to working with you and welcome New York, NY 10021-5000 tions, Erin, for your excellent work and also for your ideas. We are one, and together we can (212) 879 0383 | [email protected] continue to make this a greater organization. Immediate Past President acknowledging the true power of learning from Lori Willis other women. Willco Communications & Strategic PR Our Green Tables presentation was powerful 1159 Charter Oak Pkwy and inspirational; we learned from Susan Wig- Creve Coeur, MO 63146 (314) 994-4602 / (314) 456-5457 ley (Charleston) how the Charleston Chapter, [email protected] through food, helped heal the city after the Executive Director mass church shooting. Susan Jaime (San Anto- Greg Jewell nio) shared their incredible local program called Maria Gomez-Laurens President, AEC Management Resources “The Junior Master Gardner,” which they have P.O. Box 4961 President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected] WINTER Quarterly 2016 3 Head Chef Kim Woodward at the Savoy Grill. The Savoy Grill. Photos: The Savoy Hotel, London. Photo by Dame Chrissie Walker A savory Savoy pie. A Dame in Escoffier’s Kitchen By Chrissie Walker (London) the high-powered position at the world-famous restaurant the highest of reputations, of which Savoy Grill. Kim is so proud. The London Chapter is proud to introduce The Savoy Hotel was built by impresario It would be a shame to visit the Savoy Grill Head Chef Kim Woodward of the Savoy Grill. Richard D'Oyly Carte, who made his money and not taste the well-known dish, Omelette She is our latest Honorary Dame and the very from his association with such Victorian Arnold Bennett. It is a recipe that has been first woman Head Chef celebrities as W.S. Gilbert and Arthur Sullivan. much emulated by other chefs and cookbook at the Savoy Grill where It was they who penned the comic operas, The writers, but it originated at The Savoy. The Auguste Escoffier first Pirates of Penzance and The Mikado. Victorian novelist Arnold Bennett is perhaps came to fame. The Savoy The establishment opened its doors in August better known for having an egg dish named Grill is located at The 1889. It was the first in the Savoy empire of after him than he ever was for his prose. He Savoy, an iconic luxury hotels and restaurants that have been owned wrote a whole novel while staying at The Sa- hotel in central London. by the D'Oyly Carte family for more than a voy, and during breaks in writing he requested Kim has worked for The century. The Savoy is a promoter of luxury and an omelette containing smoked fish. The chefs Gordon Ramsay Group, who run the Grill, for became the first hotel in Britain to introduce made such a perfect one that Mr. Bennett quite a few years. She has honed her craft both electric lights and elevators. There were even wanted the same wherever he travelled. It is here in the U.K. and in the U.S. and is now bathrooms in most of the rooms, which was a rich dish and it is easy to see why Arnold dedicated to continuing the history of classic not usual in the 1800s, neither in hotels nor in became so enamoured of this delightful creamy dishes and service at the Savoy Grill, while many homes. concoction. Whilst Kim looks for contempo- Conference Coverage introducing a little innovation of her own. She D'Oyly Carte employed César Ritz, who had rary inspiration, she is keen to maintain those says that there are dishes that she could never opened the successful Maison de la Conver- long-standing and popular menu items. remove from the menu, but she tries to reflect sation restaurant in Germany with Auguste For those card-carrying carnivores, Kim pres- seasonality. Escoffier. The two were invited to London to ents plenty of meat options on the Savoy Grill Kim was born and brought up in Chester become the first manager and chef of the new bill of fare. There is a daily-changing trolley in the north of England and was drawn to Savoy. César later opened his own establish- menu, which tempts the diner with lamb and hospitality as a career, studying for both front ment and it is still called The Ritz. That French pork, and includes the iconic steak and kidney and back of house. She was offered a chance chef Escoffier—the man who has lent his pie. Just as traditional is the Sunday roast rib to work as a chef in the U.S. where she rose name to our order—introduced standards for of beef served with the indispensable Yorkshire through the kitchen ranks. She married an what has become known as fine dining. That pudding. There are succulent steaks aplenty and American and returned to the U.K. where she ethos continues today at the Savoy Grill with a wine list of good reds to accompany them. joined the celebrated Gordon Ramsay. dynamic Kim Woodward at the culinary helm. Chef Kim Woodward is young but is success- Kim has a passion for food but also for The great and the good have dined here. fully managing to balance the needs of modern getting the best from her staff and is much George Gershwin, Frank Sinatra, Lena Horne diners while maintaining the standards and the involved in choosing and mentoring the young and Noël Coward, Laurence Olivier, and even cachet of such a well-established restaurant. apprentices who work with her. She has a close The Beatles have crossed its threshold. Winston Yes, she’s the first woman to take charge here, relationship with the local catering college and Churchill loved the place and he often took but it’s reasonable to assume that Auguste divides her time equally between management his cabinet to lunch. The food, ambiance, and Escoffier would approve of this lady with such and cooking. She has strong interpersonal as discreet yet attentive service have given the evident skills and energy. well as culinary skills, which well equip her for

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Conference Coverage

On behalf of the Charleston Chapter, we express our gratitude We are grateful for the leadership of Lori Willis, and look forward for your participation, passion, and commitment to lDEI. We to working with new lDEI President Maria Gomez-Laurens. Con- surpassed all attendance records during the Charleston Confer- gratulations to Grande Dame Joan Nathan—you inspire us all! ence and had a blast while doing so! We have made great memories together. Now, we pass the prover- From the president’s dinner and pre-conference tours, to rid- bial torch to our sisters in the nation’s capital and we are excited to ing the water taxi to beautiful lowndes Grove Plantation, and be your guests. Th anks for doin’ the Charleston with us. dancing the night away at lowcountry live, a Taste of Charles- ton—and beyond—the conference was a success! Th anks for Take care y’all, every seminar you attended, for every moment spent enjoying the hospitality suite and our artisan market, for every fl apper Paige Crone headpiece you donned, right down to the last Bloody Mary and Jennifer Goldman biscuit consumed…you made it wonderful! Deidre Schipani Even more so, hearing your expressions of enjoyment and satisfaction made us proud of our hard work and proud to have made your trip down South a genuine Charleston experience.

Sunset photo: Julie Hettiger Dames: Susan Slack

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 5 Reception honoring Edna Lewis in 1987. L-R: Unknown Pre Conference Events gentleman, Edna Lewis, Ma- ria Keneally (Museum Shop Manager Middleton Place), Rosemary Hertel (Former PR Remembering Edna lewis Director Middleton Place), and actress Candice Bergan. Courtesy of Maria Keneally & Café Nicholson and Cliff Lipson Photographs. By Carol Brock (New york) dish. unfortunately, during a stop at Fearrington House in at les Dames 2015 pre-conference seminar North Carolina, I didn’t lunch, not realizing at Middleton Place plantation in Charleston, Edna had been a guest chef in the early ‘80s we lunched on succulent before moving to Middleton Place, and that grilled quail prepared her famous Hot Chocolate Souffl é was still on from Edna Lewis’s the menu. recipe. Edna was chef-in- In 1948 Johnny Nicholson, a window residence at Middleton dresser and antique dealer, decided to open Place Restaurant in the a restaurant. His friend Edna, known for her late 1980s. Post luncheon, Southern cooking, walked by one day and there was a lengthy Q&a he immediately asked her to join him in the session. Edna was a member of our New venture rather than accept a job as a domestic. york les Dames Chapter and was honored as Th e fi rst Café Nicholson stayed on 57th Street Grande Dame at Th e Carter Presidential Cen- a few years, then relocated to East 58th Street ter at the 1999 atlanta Conference. I felt that near an entrance to the Queensboro Bridge. I certainly must, and did note this, and then Grande Dame Edna Lewis. Johnny had fallen in love with the Café Greco I mentioned dining at her Café Nicholson in Photo: Kevin Mitchell, Edna Lewis Foundation. in Rome and wanted to replicate it. Th is was 1951—the fi rst Café Nicholson on East 57th the Café Nicholson where society dinned— Street, between Second and Th ird avenues. I from classic cookbooks with a heavy Southern Tennessee Williams, Richard avedon, Gloria credited Edna for bringing fi ne dining to New accent. She was a Grand Dame of Southern Vanderbilt, Eleanor Roosevelt, Diana Vree- york City as did the 1939 World’s Fair, which cooking even back then. land, and Marlene Dietrich. drew the greatest chefs from Europe, asia, and I chose the same meal from Café Nicholson’s Charter Member Margaret Stern dined North africa; many relocated to the city to menu more than once. It certainly was not there twice with Roy andries De Groot. open fashionable restaurants. what was being served in New york at the Rozanne Gold remembers the décor (of the Th e fi rst Café Nicholson restaurant was on time. My appetizer was stuff ed mussels; the second Nicholson) resembled a “Parisian plea- the second fl oor of a brownstone, but the bluish-black half-shells stood out on stark sure palace.” a fi ve-page article on Edna in the walkup was a true delight with murals by white oval plates—each heaped with curried New York Times Magazine (October 28, 2015, ludwig Bemelmans (illustrator of the Madeline rice. a glorious, individual hot cheese souffl é “Th e Black Roots of american Cooking”) books). Th e room was white with two palm preceded a very simply dressed salad of buttery discusses the unique establishment. trees, round café tables topped with marble, Boston, which was amazing in those days. Café Nicholson cast a spell over me. For and bentwood-and-wires chairs. Th e menu was Surprisingly, there were no hot biscuits—those years, there has been a small, round, marble- brief and innovating for those days, and the irresistible Southern biscuits that Edna made topped table with a bentwood chair and a food was spectacular—simple and delicious. superbly (Truman Capote always requested palm-like, seven-leafed banana plant in my In fact, William Faulkner had asked Edna, them). and even though it was unusual to do kitchen replicating what was in the café. It “Did you study in Paris?” But no, she was self- so, for dessert I always ordered the individual, impacted what I did for 35 of my years of food taught, learning in her mother’s kitchen and hot, dark chocolate souffl é—Edna’s signature journalism-photography.

Southern Hospitality Suite

The Charleston Dames’ Southern Hospitality Suite hosted a Local Artisan Marketplace with signature 2 Charleston products. Later it became the setting for culinary conversations with cookbook authors and a tranquil spot where Dames and their guests could relax and enjoy signature sips and nibbles. 1 3 4 5

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Th e legacy of Carolina Gold Rice Culture: A Seminar at Middleton Place By CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.) En route to the 18th century Middleton Place plantation, our coach passed beneath sun-dappled live oaks tinseled with Spanish moss. We were on our way to a day of discussing and dining a la riziculture, chaired by Susan Slack (Charleston). Th e 60 Dames and guests broke into their colorful, chrysanthemum breakfast boxes to discover three fragrant biscuits—cheese, rosemary, and one slathered with blackberry jam—provisioned by Carrie Morey’s Charleston-based company, Callie’s Hot little Biscuit. along the 30-minute drive, Sarah Graham (Charleston) gave an in-depth talk about the area’s history. Hopping off the coach, we strolled to the Pavilion, a special group venue where the lectures and luncheon were held. Sarah had arranged for a mini-version of the plantation’s local-crafts and book shop to be displayed inside. Tracy Todd, COO of Middleton Place, welcomed us to the 1741 plantation that survived the Revolutionary and Civil War and was home to arthur Middleton, a signer of the Declaration of Indepen- dence. It has the oldest landscape gardens in america. Introduced by Nathalie Dupree, the leadoff speaker was Dr. David S. Shields, a “Renaissance man and a peculiar kind of historian who likes Clockwise from top left: Middleton Place Lowcountry Pickled Shrimp. Museum to make things appear again that are no longer here.” He said, “Carolina Shop buyer Maria Keneally with Dame Sarah Graham. Miss Edna Lewis’ Grilled Rice is considered the grandfather of long grain rice in the americas. Quail from The Gift of Southern Cooking by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock. It’s a medium-to-long grain, non-aromatic rice with a starchy feel that Dallas Dame Tina Wasserman holds a panicle of Carolina Gold Rice.L-R: Dr. grows 6 to 7-feet high. It’s a good base for marrying fl avors and cooks to David Shields, Susan Slack, and Tracey Todd–Middleton Place VP & COO. L-R: Glenn Roberts of Anson Mills, Nathalie Dupree. Photos by CiCi Williamson. a creamy consistency for rice pudding. Escoffi er used pounded cooked rice to make bisque soups.” In 1994, Glenn Roberts, formerly a hotel and restaurant designer, de- the grain. Th e tables featured menu cards and Nathalie’s eclectic teapots, cided that authentic lowcountry cuisine must live again. He said, “We’ve fi lled with Carolina Gold Rice panicles, okra, and cotton branches. Each lost so much, I don’t yet know what we’re bringing back. If you want to guest received a trendy mesh bag from Andrea Limehouse of lime- fi nd out about food, sometimes you have to look beyond the cookbook house Produce that held organic, heirloom Carolina Gold Rice from to seed catalogs and farm journals.” Glenn is the founder of anson Mills anson Mills and quail egg shell cutters from Manchester Farms. Nancie and grower of Carolina Gold Rice, which is sold primarily to chefs. McDermott and Susan shared resource and information packets. Th e luncheon menu, organized by Marion Sullivan, was prepared after lunch, we roamed the grounds; had a talk at the two-family slave from recipes of Grande Dame Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock. Middle- dwelling, Eliza’s House; and a tour of the mansion house museum. Ev- ton Place lowcountry pickled shrimp comprised the fi rst course. Th e erything in the house is original and belonged to the Middleton family main dish was quail donated by Manchester Farms of Columbia, South in the 18th and 19th century, including four rare Benjamin West por- Carolina, and—procured by Nathalie, accompanied by Hoppin’ John, traits. Th anks go to Charleston Dames Nathalie Dupree, Susan Slack, and Southern Turnip and Mustard Greens. Dessert was a delicious an- Marion Sullivan, Sarah Graham, and Nancie McDermott for arranging son Mills Carolina Gold Rice Pudding that illustrated the starchy feel of the informative all-day tour.

1. Danielle Wecksler creates ﬂ apper headpieces for the Grande Dame banquet. 2. Culinary historian and cookbook author Renée Marton (New York). 3. Award-winning journalist Toni Tipton-Martin (Austin) chronicles African American cookbooks. 4. Jacqui Pickles (London) admires a sweetgrass basket, valued by art collectors and museums. Lowcountry coil basketry is one of the oldest African crafts in America. 5. Marilyn Dingle learned the art of basket 6 making from her great grandmother, as a child. Her ancestors brought the 8 West African tradition to the Lowcountry over 300 years ago. Marilyn’s work has been displayed at the Smithsonian. 6. L-R: Vivián Joiner and Stephanie L. Tyson are North Carolina Dames. 7. Executive Director Greg Jewel and Administration Director Bernie Mudd White. 8. L-R: Author Carrie Morey of award-winning Callie’s Charleston Biscuits and noted Southern chef and author Virginia Willis (Atlanta). 9. L-R: Clare BoBo (Hawaii), Devany Vickery- Davidson (Charleston), and Nancy Edney (Hawaii). Photos by Susan Slack. 7 9

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 7 An Abundance of Seafood at Shem Creek By Ann Stratte erally transformed the Charleston Mark and Kerry have eliminated members contained a red, fleshy (Washington, D.C.) area seafood scene with their “boat the middleman, namely large-scale fish in the tuna family called Little to table" movement. seafood distribution centers, sell- Tunny. Restaurant chefs are featur- “What Mark and I have accom- Our group had the pleasure of ing the catch themselves. They not ing banded redfish as their crudo plished could not have happened meeting Mark’s “mistress," Amy only supply the city’s top restau- offering. After a tutorial from in another town,” says Kerry Marie, a 39-foot fishing boat he rants with their favorite fish but Mark on fileting fish, we were Marhefka of Abundant Food’s takes 50 miles offshore fishing the spread the wealth through their handed a lovely glass of Conde de unique and successful business coasts of the Carolinas and as far dockside Community Supported Subrirats, NV Cava Brut by Nicki model. “As a result of the support south as St. Augustine, Florida. Fishery (CSF). Serving over 300 Root, owner of Grassroots wine. of local chefs and residents who Amy Marie is a classic workboat— local residents for six years, the Nicki’s company “is a distribu- value where their food comes no head and few amenities—hold- CSF shareholders can bring home tor of wines produced by family from…the city of Charleston is ing up to 6000 pounds of fresh the same high-quality fish as the owned producers whose bumper the magic.” fish. While out at sea, Mark calls local restaurants, well below local sticker mottos are ‘Farms, not Fac- Just over the Cooper River from in by satellite phone and reports supermarket prices. tories’ and ‘Tractors, not Tankers.’” Charleston, 25 lucky Dames to Kerry exactly what he is catch- The Marhefka’s are culinary The bubbly was a perfect match waded through supermoon-influ- ing. She alerts the local restaurants educators who familiarize profes- to the lovely smoked amberjack enced, record high water on the of the fish varieties that will be on sional and home chefs with the we enjoyed while soaking in the docks of Shem Creek in Mount the way to the docks. The talented potential uses of lesser-known fish, beautiful sunny weather ordered Pleasant, South Carolina to meet chefs place orders and create their such as amberjack and wreckfish. especially for us. We sat down Kerry and her husband Mark menus, knowing the freshest avail- After years of overfishing, snapper- at elegantly set picnic tables and Marhefka, owners of Abundant able catch will be arriving for their grouper stocks were significantly indulged on an incredible lunch of Seafood and our hosts for the diners to savor the following day. compromised causing the South freshly caught, local wreckfish and morning. We were there to learn Chef Sean Brock, of Husk and Atlantic Fishery Management a variety of tasty salads, while sip- about their mutual love and re- McCrady’s, is a big fan. “Basi- Council to implement some of the ping two special French wines—a spect for the ocean, its inhabitants, cally, if Mark brings it in the door, toughest regulations in its history. rosé and a muscadet—provided by and their mission to maintain we’ll cook it. It’s the trust thing.” As a result, a greater variety of Grassroots. Heartfelt thanks its sustainability. Kerry, a former Without a doubt, Abundant unique fish options are found on go to Kerry, Mark, Nicki, and all fisheries biologist for the South Seafood plays a big part in making local menus, loved by chefs and the Dames who performed magic Atlantic Fishery Management Charleston one of the top food diners alike. In mid-November, for us on the beautiful shores of Council (SAFMC), and Mark, a cities in the nation. the weekly baskets of the CSF Shem Creek. second-generation fisherman, lit-

Clockwise from top left: Dames Beth Allen and Kerry Marhefka at Shem Creek. Dame Nicki Root prepares salad for lunch. Dames enjoy lunch during the Abundant Seafood tour. Mark and Kerry Marhefka clean fish for a dockside lunch.

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Touring GrowFood Carolina and DirtWorks Farm

Steeped in History:

Charleston Tea Plantation DirtWorks, the first and only incubator farm in the state of South Carolina is growing the next By Nichole Bendele until you use them to brew a cup of tea. generation of farmers. Photo by Nicki Root. (San Antonio) We tried several delicious teas produced Dames traveled to nearby Wadmalaw by the Charleston Tea Plantation—hot and By Holly Chute (Atlanta) Island to learn about growing tea in South cold—in the wonderful gift shop and Tea Bar Carolina. We were guided through the tea before having a picnic lunch under the big I was fortunate enough to attend the plantation on a trolley named after the oak trees. Bill Hall, third generation profes- Charleston preconference tour, GrowFood famous racehorse, Sea Biscuit. We visited sional tea taster and founder of the Charles- Carolina and DirtWorks Farm. DirtWorks the nursery where cuttings of tea plants were ton Tea Plantation in 1987, visited with Farm, the only incubator farm in the state, growing. The tea plant is from the Camellia us. He mentioned the history of tea began leases plots of land to farmers and those family but only the Camellia sinensis variety in 2737 B.C. China when a servant boiled who hope to become farmers. Tour hosts has caffeine. Tea plants thrive in conditions drinking water for Emperor Shen Nung and Sara Clow and Jamee Haley were pas- of high humidity, heat, rainfall, and well- tea leaves felt into the pot. The Emperor sionate and informative as they provided drained soil. The plants are watered one inch enjoyed the flavor and tea became a popular an overview of the farm while we traveled per week for 52 weeks using pond water. Tea drink! Tea is the second most consumed to its location on historic Johns Island. It plants can grow up to 30 feet tall but are beverage after water. is impressive to see how DirtWorks Farm pruned back to approximately 3½ feet tall To become a tea taster, Bill apprenticed cultivates and mentors farmers with the so they become bushy and form more leaves. four years in London. Afterwards he wanted goal that they will eventually purchase and They are harvested every three to four days to start a tea plantation and harvest me- farm their own land. During the process, during the April-October season. The plants chanically. Note that if using manual labor, they are able to grow crops of their own can live to be 600 years old. it would take 400 people to work the tea choice and “test the waters” to determine if Tea first arrived in North America from plantation. Bill practices sustainability and the path they have chosen is a viable one. China in 1799 with famed French botanist, no pesticides are used. There is no erosion Starting small, they lease affordable plots André Michaux, who brought it to Middle- because of the density of the growing plants, of land and expand as their knowledge and ton Place for ornamental use. Eventually, the which are also high-oxygen producing. success develops. This is an awesome model Lowcountry was considered an ideal climate He also explained that green tea, black tea, for other states to replicate when proven to grow tea for consumption; several tea and oolong tea are all from the same plant successful. DirtWorks Farm is just begin- plantations were started in the 1800s. The but processed differently. Black tea is on ning to graduate the first class of farmers, most successful was Pinehurst Tea Plantation the oxidation bed forty-five minutes before which will provide validity in its model. founded by Dr. Charles Shepard, who won going into the dryer. Oolong tea is left on GrowFood Carolina is a Charleston food first prize at the 1904 World’s Fair for his the oxidation bed for fifteen minutes while hub that provides an outlet for farmers to Oolong Tea. His plantation closed following green tea is never left on the oxidation bed deliver their products to sell and distrib- his death in 1915 but many of his tea plants and goes straight to the dryer. He explained ute to local markets and restaurants. It were imported to Wadmalaw Island and are that Camellia sinensis is authentic tea; if made is a great resource for incubator farmers part of the current Charleston Tea Plantation. from anything else, it is not tea. as well as smaller farms to be able to get After touring the tea plantation, we went Bill mentioned the partnership he formed their products to a wider audience. It is an inside to see the production process. The har- with the Bigelow Family. All tea labeled impressive facility that continues to expand vest was finished for the year, so we watched “Charleston Tea Plantation” is from his plan- with its success. The entire tour was most short videos next to the equipment on how tation. If the tea is labeled “Bigelow” it can be enjoyable and very informative. It was most the process was done. We saw the “withering imported tea from around the world. inspiring to me as I work as the Executive bed” where tea leaves sit for about 18 hours Chef for the Georgia Grown program with followed by the “roto-vane machine” where Nichole Bendele and Waddy the frog, who the Georgia Department of Agriculture. the leaves are broken down into small piec- hangs out at the Charleston Tea Plantation. I hope to share what I learned with my Waddy holds a tea mug and wears a leg Georgia coworkers. es. Then they go to the “oxidation bed” where bandage with a note about his injury from the good flavor comes from. Lastly, the leaves “playing leap frog.” Camellia sinensis tea Editor’s Note: Holly served as Executive Chef go to the “dryer” where the flavor is sealed plants. Photos by Nichole Bendele at the Georgia Governor’s Mansion for more than 30 years.

WINTER Quarterly 2016 9 Gullah-Geechee Tour President's Dinner Dame Jeanne DeCamilla hosted a Saturday pre- conference Gullah-Geechee Tour that was quickly sold out. The fortunate Dames that signed up were treated to a side of Charleston history not often seen by tour- ists. Alphonso Brown, a retired band director with the Charleston County School District, owns and operates the acclaimed Gullah Tours. For this event, he created a unique tour with emphasis on the influence and importance of black residents and culture in the Low- country. The attendees were educated and entertained by Alphonso’s many stories of people and places that helped shape Charleston’s rich history. Chef BJ Den- nis, a popular personal chef and caterer, joined us along the way at historic Gadsdenboro Park. Chef Dennis, a Charleston native, is dedicated to the preservation of the Gullah cuisine. The Dames enjoyed deviled crab, rice pudding with muscadine grape jam and salted brown butter pecans, and sautéed collard greens. Chef Dennis spoke about his passion for making sure that the foods that were essential in our past remain an important part of our present culture. Everyone left Alphonso and Chef Dennis with a better understanding and greater appreciation of the Gullah-Geechee heritage.

LDEI Past Presidents: Beth Allen, Toria Emas, CiCi Williamson, Renie Steves, Mary Ellen Griffin, Sandy Hu, Abigail Kirsch, Pat Mozersky, Katherine Newell Smith, Carol Brock, Teresa Farney, Mary Moore, Susanne Brown. Photo: Greg Jewell. President’s Dinner: Charleston Dame Jennifer Goldman introduced Master French Chef Nico Romo of Fish restaurant. He prepared a multi-course dinner for 13 LDEI past presidents, the 2015 Board, and their guests. 2015 LDEI President Lori Willis hosted the memorable event. L: Deborah Mintcheff and Suzanne L-R: Chef BJ Dennis, Dame Jeanne DeCamilla, Brown. R: Jacqueline Orak and CiCi Williamson. Photos by Lori Willis. and tour organizer Alphonso Brown. Photo: Jeanne DeCamilla. During the Gullah-Gechee Tour, Dames enjoyed a taste of BJ Dennis’ deviled crabs. Photo courtesy of BJ Dennis.

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International a Culinary History Tour Dames Cappie Peete and Nicki Root organized a fun food and beverage tour focused on the history of McCrady’s Restaurant and the Heyward-Washington House. McCrady’s sommelier Jodi Bronchtein shared the establishment’s fascinating history. In 1778, Charleston barber Edward McCrady opened the historic house as a tavern. He connected it to a new building through a second story, double piazza called the long Room. Th e space became the hub for the city’s social scene and in 1791, the site of a 30-course dinner for President George Washington, hosted by the Society of Cincinnati. Th e Heyward-Washington House on Church Photo by Sandy Hu Street was built around 1772 as the town home of Th omas Heyward, Jr., a london- educated lawyer and planter who became a of Charleston leased the home in 1791 as a the original outbuildings and dates back to patriot leader and one of four South Carolina residence for George Washington during his 1740. Th ere is a huge hearth, a beehive oven, signers of the Declaration of Independence. weeklong visit; at the time, the kitchen was and cooking utensils from the period. arche- Th omas was the ancestor of Dubose Hey- being remodeled. In 1794, Judge John Grimké ologists have recovered colonoware from the ward who wrote Porgy—the inspiration for purchased the home. His daughters Sarah and detached kitchen—colonial pottery made by Gershwin’s iconic opera, Porgy and Bess. Th e angelina were abolitionists and helped found african and Native americans. Th e structure book’s setting, Cabbage Row, is located near america’s feminist movement. Th e two-story is the only extant 1740s kitchen building in the Heyward-Washington House. Th e City brick kitchen (shown in the photo) is one of Charleston.

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WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 11 Opening Reception

tHe BiG Picture: Dames Gather For opening reception There is an old proverb that says, “A picture paints a thousand words.” These snapshots convey the 1 excitement of the 2015 Charleston Conference Opening Reception in the picturesque setting of the Marriott 2 3 Charleston courtyard. During the traditional conference kickoff, Dames enjoyed small bites with big ﬂ avors and sipped wine while networking, reconnecting with friends, and greeting fi rst-time attendees, several from LDEI’s newly formed chapters.

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1. Executive Director Greg Jewel with Kentucky Dames (L-R): Michele Bowling and guest Barb Grosso, Elizabeth Weimer, Jami Estes, Lisa Windhorst. 2. LDEI President Maria Gomez-Laurens (LA/OC-San Diego) with Nancy Jessup (New York). Photos 1 & 2: Lori Willis. 3. Carol Brock (New York) and Hayley Matson- Mathes (Hawaii). 4. North Carolina Dames: L-R: Colleen Minton, Ellen Clevenger-Firley, Sandra Gutierrez, and Kelly Taylor. 5. Renie Steves (Dallas) and Teresa Farley (Colorado). 6. Bill Emas and Toria Emas (Chicago) with Sandy Arlinghaus (Ann Arbor). 7. Sylvia Garnier (Nashville) with Hawaii Dames Abigail Langlas and Kathi Saks. Photos 3-7: Mike Mathes. 8. St. Louis Dames, Front: Roberta Duyff. Back row L-R: Marilyn Freundlich, Mary Sutkus, Cecily Hoffi us, and Judith Bellos. 9. Boston Dames Guida Ponte, Miriam Michalczyk, and Maryanne Muller. Photos 8 & 9: Lori Willis.

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Keynote Speaker a Tribute to Carla Hall By Valentina Harris insight into the journey of her (london) life including the trials and tribulations she has experienced I have to confess that I had in order to get where she is never heard of Carla Hall today. My traveling companion, before she bounded on to the Dame Jacqui Pickles, went stage to on to New york, and thanks to give the Carla and Carol Brock, she had keynote the opportunity to appear as a speech at guest on aBC’s “Th e Chew.” the lDEI as you know, Carla is a co-host Charleston on the popular lifestyle series. Confer- I’m sorry to say Jacqui didn’t get ence last a lot of air time, despite hours month. spent making herself look even By the time she had fi nished more glamorous than she al- regaling us with stories of her ready is! However, she was able life in the food business—in to watch Carla up close and particular, the mad world of in action. Her only comment television and food—it seemed to me when I pressed her was, to be at exactly the same level “amazing!” of insanity whichever country and that is what Carla Hall is: one is talking about! after 40 amazing! To my mind, it was minutes or so had whizzed really impressive that after giv- by, I for one, felt that I knew ing that speech (which you can this woman quite well! So listen to online at www.ldei.org, many of her anecdotes about by the way), she could easily being a woman in this industry have disappeared to do whatev- resonated with many Dames er it is that famous people do in in that room, including myself. their spare time. I can think of More than once, she caused me several u.K. food and cooking to want to leap to my feet and personalities—many women— shout out my understanding, who would have done, and letting her know that I knew often do, exactly that. almost exactly what she was Instead, she stayed at confer- talking about. ence and partied on with us In her brilliant speech, Carla as a Dame, attending all the managed to be funny, poi- various fi xtures. and when I gnant, and clever. She remind- asked her if I needed to run ed us that no matter how hard this by her or her “people” it all seems sometimes, this before submitting it for print, marvellous world of food be- she thought about it for just longs to us because we have all one second before graciously, been blessed with a skill that and somewhat astonishingly, connects us inexorably to what saying: “No, that’s OK, go we do. However much we right ahead.” Now that really sometimes complain, there is impressed me, and so it made little else we would do because High-Performance Blending writing this so much more of a there is literally nothing that pleasure. I feel really honoured fi lls us with so much joy. In to have been there for Carla’s Leading chefs and at-home cooks alike choose Vitamix the end, if we are really, truly inspiring speech and to have for its power, versatility, and premium engineering. honest, we’d rather be in the met such an amazing Dame. From hot soups to frozen desserts, nothing delivers the kitchen than anywhere else. fresh flavors of whole foods like a Vitamix machine. Carla managed to give us great Vitamix is proud to sponsor After the General Session Welcome, Dame Carla Hall presented her inspiring keynote speech. The Opening Les Dames d’Escoffier International Conference. Breakfast included Lowcountry Shrimp & Grits, and yogurt parfaits with fresh berries. Photos: Susan Slack To learn more about Vitamix, visit vitamix.com

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 13 LDEI Charleston Presents An Autumn Aﬀ air By Toria Emas (Chicago) Southern hospitality reigned at “an autumn aff air.” For the fi fth year the Charleston Chapter gathered the best of the region’s wine and food to treat the palates of the guests and members at their sold-out event. Th is year, lDEI conference attendees who supported the fundraiser were whisked off to historic lowndes Grove Plantation via water taxi that was boarded on the banks of the ashley River across from the host hotel. lowndes Grove is Peninsula Charleston's last remaining city plantation, and dates back to 1786. as the sun set, lDEI members and guests were greeted at the shore of the plantation. under the 5 6 oaks of the beautiful lowndes Grove, they feasted on charcuterie from the Meathouse Butcher Shop and fresh ravioli from Rio Bertolini’s Pastifi cio artiginale. Smart guests saved room for the Rio Bertolini Gelato Cart and seasonal pumpkin gelato later in the evening. Pinot Noirs ruled on the lower level, while the tented area held wines sampled from Virginia to South africa and everywhere in between. Tables off ering food from Charleston’s premier chefs and shops were sprinkled among festively displayed silent auction items. Judith Schad (Chicago/Kentucky) enjoyed seeing her award-winning Sofi a Cheese served to the guests. Th e delicate washed-rind chèvre is named for her dear friend Sofi a Solomon(Chicago) who was delighted with the recognition. No one could pass by Callie’s Hot little Biscuit without stopping for Carrie Morey’s biscuits and coff ee from King Bean Coff ee roasters. a highlight was the Caulifl ower Soup with Truﬄ e Brioche Crumbs prepared by Michelle Weaver from the Charleston Grill. Celia Cerasoli and Celia’s of Charleston mystifi ed guests with artisanal lasagne made with 25 to 30 layers of delicate, handmade egg and spin- ach pasta. all the while, the band played on. Four 2015 scholarship recipients were introduced by Susan Wigley and applauded for their determination and skills ranging from hospitality, tourism, and baking to pastry arts. Kudos to President Jennifer Goldman, Lauren Mitterer (event chair), Deidre Schipani, Lisa Brophy (silent auction co-chairs), and other organizers including Danielle Wecksler, Tanya Guerreri, Celeste Albers, Anne Semmes, Maggie Brett, Beth Price, Marion Sullivan, Libba Osborne, Jacque- line Orack, Jen Kulick, Cassondra Hall, Devany Vickery- Davidson, Patricia Agnew, and Susan Wigley. Th e magical evening was creative, fun, well-executed and raised proceeds for scholarships for aspiring women and the lowcountry Food Bank’s fi ght against hunger.

1. The elegant tented venue, adjacent to the Main House. 2. French macarons from Christophe Artisan Chocolatier-Pâtissier. 3. Susan Wigley awarded three scholarships during the event. Photo: Susan Slack. 4. Welcome to Autumn Affair. 5. Jennifer Goldman and Deidre Schipani greet guests. 6. The landing dock at Lowndes Grove Plantation. 7. Melanie Young and Nathalie Dupree. Photos: Susan Slack. 8. Ravioli with fall vegetables from Rio Bertolini’s Pastifi cio Artiginale. 9. Charcuterie from the Meathouse Butcher Shop. 10. Tim Bushey serves wines for B.R. Cohn Winery. 11. Celeste Albers (L) pioneered organic farming in South Carolina, and Chef Sarah O’Kelley is studying to become a sommelier. 12. Water taxi transportation to Autumn Affair: Kelly Patkus, Christine Rudalevige, Toria Emas, Patty Erd, Ida Rodriguez (seated), Nancy Eisman. Photo: 9 Bill Emas. Photos 1, 2, 4, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11: Keely Laughlin. 14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 1 2 3 4

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WINTER Quarterly 2016 15 Top, L-R: Carolyn O’Neil, Concurrent Sessions Angie Mosier, Nathalie Dupree, Session 1 Stephanie Barna. Th e Edible South: Th e Power of Food and the Making of an American Region

By ann M. Evans two lands and the agricultural (San Francisco and system and cultural underpinning Sacramento) of their economies. Marcie touched upon women’s Drawing upon her 2014 food writings that depicted the Session 2 university american Revolution, the Civil of North War with its eventual strategy of Carolina starvation against which women Press book Reinvention: Staying Fresh rebelled and rioted to feed their by the same families. She went through the By Michele Scicolone (New york) name as Reconstruction, the Progressive that of the Moderator: Carolyn O’Neil, M.S., R.D., of O’Neil Nutrition Reform in the 1900s with do- workshop, Communications; TV personality and cookbook author. She began mestic education, and eventually Professor Marcie Cohen Ferris this popular session with insights into how some the New Deal of the 1930s and presented a brief history of the famous personalities cope with life changes, like ‘40s. It was in this era, she says, South as interpreted through retired CEO, Jack Welch (General Electric), that the public relations machine women’s voices around food. who advises, “Change before you have to,” steeped the South in the fl avors Her research is based on letters or Elizabeth Taylor who would suggest “Pour of the past, depicting a mythic and diarists of those inside and yourself a drink, put on some lipstick, and pull South. out of the South. She began by yourself together.” Th e tourist image of the generic acknowledging the contrast and Th e panel included Stephanie Barna, the mammy fi gure, Marcie says, gave contradiction that accompanies founding editor of the Charleston City Paper no name as if to take the human- “Be daring, any discussion on this topic. who changed careers after 17 years. Stephanie ity away. In contrast, photogra- Marcie credited the writings of said that boredom is a good guide to know- phers of that era such as Dorothea embrace the late John Egerton and John ing when it is time to make a change. Her lange and Marion Post Wolcott T. Edge, Director of the Southern transition from journalism to public relations change, of the Farm Security adminis- Foodways alliance, with infl uenc- was strange at fi rst but she soon adjusted. She tration, documented Southern and take ing her own approach to food advises not worrying about change, but to “har- poverty and depression. cultures in the region. vest it” and move on to the next chapter. chances.” In the 1960s, the South’s From early writings about Scott Barnwell described himself as a “serial poverty broke through to the Southern cuisine—greens, butter entrepreneur.” He began his career as a college national psyche, achieved in part Michele beans, pork, stone ground grits, student making key lime pies for his landlady’s through publicized hunger tours Scicolone sweet potatoes, fi eld peas, and bridge club. Today, at 51, he is the owner of such as that conducted by Sena- hot cornbread—Marcie recast High Wire Distilling Company, his sixth busi- tor Fritz Hollings of South Caro- the story of the Southern larder, ness. He sites creativity, curiosity, and tenacity as the secrets of his lina. Two tumultuous decades which was derived by global infl u- success and recommends dreaming big, letting go of insecurities, and later, women’s voices again rose ence. Many came of their own owning your dreams. up around food, this time with free will, others were enslaved; Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree is a cookbook author, teacher, a new narrative that untethered both brought with them seeds and and TV personality. She says that she was not very good at anything food from the complexity of the breeds, husbandry and cultivation when she was younger and was slated to become a typist. Fortunate- region. skills, and recipes for the table as ly, she discovered a love for cooking and decided to pursue a career. Marcie sited the voices in the well as for preserving the harvest. She spoke about handling fears of failure and urged the audience to 1980s and ‘90s of luminaries like In looking to the past, she quot- face up to and work through them. Nathalie says that life changes— Grand Dame Natalie Dupree of ed, for example, Ruth Hastings of we often have no control—so what counts is keeping our passion Charleston with her book New Society Hill, South Carolina, who alive. Interns and younger friends inspire her and teach her new Southern Cooking; african-amer- wrote letters in the early 1850s to things, for example, all about cake pops! ican chef and restaurateur Edna her home in the North. Th ere’s a Angie Mosier of Placemat Productions, a marketing and consulting Lewis; and culinary historian lot of food, Ruth observed, “Here company, said she loves new challenges and that her greatest motiva- Karen Hess. Into the 21st century, they eat hot, sweet potato cakes tor in life was “fear of missing out.” She began as an accountant but chefs, venture capitalists, and with butter for breakfast, unlike realized she preferred making wedding cakes. Th is led to a career as a scholars rekindled regionalism. our character-building bowls of food stylist and her current job as a food photographer. When faced With it, Marcie said, have come oatmeal.” Th at small diff erence in with failure, angie considers “What do I have to do to make this new voices taking their rightful the day’s start refl ected a diff er- work?” She recommends embracing new technology and changes place around the Southern table. ence in the productivity of the that come our way or risk being left behind.

16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International a sMiDGen oF african Infl uence in lowcountry Cuisine GuLLaH HeritaGe Session 3 A Global Culinary Initiative Presentation Nearly 500,000 Gullah- Geechee people live today By Suzanne J. Brown (atlanta) “the size of a black-eyed pea.” Terms like “little pinch between Jacksonville, North of this” were also common to the cooking techniques. Carolina, and Jacksonville, Without the verbal histories brought to the colonies Without measuring utensils, Gullah-Geechee people Florida. They reside along through the atlantic Slave Trade, predominately in cooked food by “taste,” and created their own termi- the coastal areas and barrier the 1700s and 1800s, there nology native to their heritage. In his presentation, islands, hence the term, would be no record of the rich Chef Mitchell said the essence of Gullah cooking was “Lowcountry.” (Charleston heritage of Southern food, “to get the most from the least.” Rice, corn, potatoes, Historical Foundation). grounded in Gullah-Geechee collards, seafood, and pork were basic ingredients for Beginning in the late food culture, tradition, and they were the most dependable crops and the most 1500s, Africans from West cooking techniques. Th ree available meats. Th e best vegetables and meats went and Central Africa were lowcountry food and culture to the plantation owners and were prepared by house brought to Sullivan’s Island, experts, Jonathan Green, Che- cooks; fi eld cooks prepared the rest. South Carolina, through the Farmer Matthew Raiford, and Chef Kevin Mitchell, Th e three presenters emphasized the need for preserv- Slave Act. When European provided an educational, informative presentation on ing Gullah-Geechee history through education. One settlers began to explore the signifi cant impact the Gullah (South Carolina)- way is to encourage more african-american chefs to the Carolina coast, they Geechee (Georgia) food and culture heritage has had open restaurants and preserve the cooking techniques. discovered rice growing and continues to have on the evolvement of interna- authentic Gullah food is “prepared from the heart,” along swampy coastal areas. tional cuisine. said Jonathan. as one of the most contemporary art- The rice was from seedlings Rice cultivation goes back ists of the Southern experience, he is founder of the transported to this area by hundreds of years to asia, but lowcountry Rice Culture Project and is working to African slaves. (Jonathan it’s West africa that introduced open a new International african american museum Green, Charleston City rice to North america. Brought in Charleston early next year. CheFarmer Raiford Paper). to Sullivan’s Island as early as continues to run the family farm in Brunswick, Survival of Gullah-Geechee the late 1500s, slaves from West Georgia and is owner of Th e Farmer and Th e larder. culture is due to the resil- and Central africa were dropped off at rice fi elds He is also associate Professor of Culinary arts—Col- iency and community shared where jobs were plentiful. Sold to wealthy plantation lege of Coastal Georgia. In addition to teaching a among enslaved plantation owners, these africans introduced complex agri- course at Charleston Culinary Institute, Chef Mitchell workers who are responsible cultural technology needed to grow rice. Referring tested recipes for Charlotte Jenkins, author of Gullah for cultivating rice crops. to the cultural background of slaves transported Cuisine, and works with Glenn Roberts and David These hard workers were to the lowcountry, Jonathan explained how their Shields in the Carolina Gold Rice Foundation. dependent on each other, language, spiritual beliefs, knowledge of agricultural all presenters shared the infl uence their grand- realizing their survival de- methodologies, food, and cooking techniques—that mothers had on inspiring their love for cooking and pended on working together we know today as Gullah- Geechee, is not only the teaching them the importance of preserving Gullah- and learning how to be basis of Southern Cookery, but has inspired recipes Geechee cultural heritage. Th eir conversations and self-suffi cient (CheFarmer throughout the world. lessons in cooking were shared with love. “Th e Gullah Matthew Raiford). In his international food classes at the Culinary heritage must be preserved,” said Jonathan who is Saving seeds from crop to Institute of Charleston, Chef Mitchell informed us researching and working to preserve his heritage crop, one-pot cooking, and that global cultures add indigenous ingredients to rice, through art and education. cooking in ashes are three such as vegetables and spices. Risotto, Pilaf, Perlo, and Visit www.ldei.org/index. php?com=gci to download the examples of Gullah heritage Pileau are essentially the same dish, but may use a dif- GCI committee’s latest newsletter, Th e GCI Africa Issue. that continue today. (Che- ferent rice varietal and spice to localize it. Editor’s Note: Suzanne J. Brown founded the Global Farmer Raiford and Chef all three culinary experts shared the Gullah food leg- Culinary Initiative in 2009. She and GCI Chair Sandy Kevin Mitchell). acy stemming from the West africa trade years in the Hu (San Francisco) served as former LDEI international “Grow fresh and eat local” 17th and 18th centuries, passed down for generations presidents. After two years, Sandy has passed the GCI was not a trend, but neces- as families shared their recipes and techniques through chairmanship to Roberta Duyﬀ (St. Louis) and Susan sity. Gullah people ate what verbal histories. CheFarmer Raiford spoke about a Slack (Charleston). Inspired by Sandy Hu’s spirit of lead- they raised and if a crop was cookbook, written in the early 20th century, which ership, the committee continues to foster Suzanne’s vision bad, they didn’t eat it. was shown to him by a St. Simon’s Garden Club when to “embrace global communities through culinary connec- The Port of Charleston he was giving a presentation. With a quick glance, he tions.” Contact Roberta or Susan if you are interesting in received spices from around realized it was written in Gullah-Geechee style; specifi - working with GCI. the world, used by local cally, a recipe called for an ingredient amount that was cooks as ingredients. For in- stance, cinnamon was used L-R: Roberta Dyuff, in nearly all vegetables. CheFarmer Matthew Knowledge of agriculture Raiford, Jona- than Green, Chef and cooking techniques Kevin Mitchell, and were not the only contribu- Sandy Hu. Morn- tions of the Gullah-Geechee. ing Winnowing They brought their own from the collection, language, crafts (basket "Unenslaved: Rice Culture Paintings” making), music, religion, by Jonathan Green." ironwork, and carpentry.

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 17 tions we did extensive research on what it was produce an exquisite watermelon eau de vie. Foods of the South exactly that had to be brought back. We had Th e fork-soft rinds were made into pickles at the recipes and descriptions of what things Th e Culinary Institute of Charleston. By Susan Slack tasted like, but we didn’t have the ingredi- When thinking of the next foods to bring (Charleston) Session 4 ents…only okra and collards survived. Flavor back, David suggests sweet-tart (sub-acid) is considered the signature for nutritiousness.” strawberries and cherries. “Southerners,” he Moderator Nancy McDermott (Charles- In a fortuitous accident, the food sleuths explains, “once preferred juicier berries with ton) set the stage for rediscovered the Carolina african runner an acid note to compliment the sweetness.” a conversation with peanut—the “ancestral peanut of the South.” Exquisitely perfumed strawberries gave way to Dr. David S. Shields, Twenty seeds survived in a peanut breeder’s hardier berries that could withstand transport. professor of Southern freezer in North Carolina. Th e peanut had “lets give mulberries another chance,” letters at the university been carried to america with the african implores David. Mulberries experienced the of South Carolina, and slave trade; enslaved africans grew it in their fastest decline of any fruit in america. In the Glenn Roberts, owner gardens. old South, dropped fruit fed hogs and chick- of anson Mills, on the Th e legendary Bradford watermelon, believed ens, fl avoring the meat. Th e juicy berries are restoration of Southern heritage foods that to be extinct since the early 1900s, is a fruit too perishable for transport, but good for jam have been lost to cultural memory. David yearned to taste. lamenting its loss, and wine—“one of the great Gullah-Geechee Carolina Gold Rice propelled the economy of he set pen to paper. By divine providence, a beverages on the seacoast.” David suggests nu- 18th century Charleston—crown jewel of Brit- Sumter, S.C. landscape architect read one of tritious dried mulberries as a food supplement ain’s colonial empire—to great wealth. Th us, his articles and called to say that his back fi eld for chickens. the groundwork was laid for the Carolina Rice was full of Bradford watermelons. He was Glenn and David documented about 30 Kitchen. Th e rice and cuisine began to disap- Nat Bradford, eighth-generation namesake of support crops for Carolina Gold rice. Glenn, pear with the Civil War, and were virtually the original grower. Before long, David and an agricultural historian, says, “Th ink in levels extinct after the Depression. Glenn were in the fi eld boiling down water- regarding the Carolina Rice Kitchen.” Th ere In 1998, anson Mills began restoring melon juice to make rich, red, syrupy Bradford were market crops (e.g., Carolina Gold Rice); Carolina Gold Rice and other heritage grains. watermelon molasses. David opined, “When elite city gardening; and hidden gardens where, Th rough the Carolina Gold Rice Foundation, we got down to the thick truth of the matter, “we fi nd the ingredients we can’t document.” David and Glenn collaborate to systematically it was so splendid and unique a taste…anyone Glenn off ers four transformative ideas to identify and repatriate nearly extinct staples of interested in a new variety of sweetness would take away. Parching improves the fl avor and the antebellum Southern larder. Th ey hope to love this.” Charleston Dame Ann Marshall nutritional profi le of landrace crops. Sour reestablish the cuisine of these vanished foods. and her husband Scott of High Wire Distillery evokes memories of black skillet cornbread David says, “Before we started the restora- distilled a portion of the watermelon crop to made with homemade buttermilk that has

Social Media: It’s A Brave, New World Session 5 By Katherine take on eff ective social media. “Th e key…is He referred to Forrester Research’s fi ndings Newell Smith to show a genuine interest in what others are that a homepage video increases your chance of (Washington, D.C.) doing. as with any relationship, you get out of a front–page Google result 53 percent. Google’s it what you put in.” She cautions, though, that algorithm automatically places it at the top “I’m going to talk with you cannot be on all platforms all the time; so, of the search because videos make sites more you today about what determine where you need to be and dedicate active. Moreover, email click rates increase by I like to call my secret yourself to it. 96 percent with embedded video. So, it is no weapon,” said Katie Wells For example, 72 percent of the 319 mil- surprise that a video promotion is six times of KEW Solutions, while lion u.S. citizens use Facebook up to 30 more powerful than print or online marketing. introducing her portion of the session. minutes a day; 42 percent of all women use Don’t be intimidated to create videos for your Katie proceeded to help the audience down- Pinterest. “If you sell to women,” says Jen- websites. you can shoot respectable videos load the CrowdFire app that she says “will nifer, “Th at’s where you want to be.” Jennifer with your iPhone 6 if you follow these crucial increase your Instagram audience.” CrowdFire suggests driving traffi c to your site by creating production steps whether they are 15 seconds links to any site you choose that might have brand awareness with interesting, fun content or 5 minutes: similar followers. you can send up to 150 of that refl ects your expertise. Become a resource Pre-production: your story needs a beginning, those followers—per hour—an invitation to in an area in which you are expert, and provide middle, and end with 20 percent selling, 60 like your Instagram or Twitter feeds. Katie content for other blogs or articles. percent educational/informational, and 20 claims to have had a 33 percent success rate If Facebook advertising is an option, set a percent inspiring/engaging. Storyboard your with CrowdFire to build clients’ audiences. budget and use its ads manager and power vision. She also suggested using Schedugram to editor functions to guide you through the Production: Create a shot list and stick to it. If schedule Instagram posts in advance; Ins- process. Strong photos are important with you hire a crew, review its work at every step so tagress, which targets likes, comments, and Facebook and Pinterest. Canva.com, graphic your vision prevails. NOTE: Take horizontal follows by hashtag subject; Instagram’s Boo- design software, is a good tool to help create shots so images fi t naturally into the platform merang app to spice up your Instagram feed; and use photos to your advantage. formats. Hyperlapse to make time-lapse videos; layout, Discussion of photography segued to Tim Post-production: Trust your team/editor. Mi- to combine numerous shots in a single post, McManus of Hed Hi Media, a video produc- nor changes are never minor. and Picstitch, which combines multiple photos tion company, who described the power of Distribution: Hed Hi Media uses four free in one frame. moving images. “If a picture is worth a thou- platforms: Instagram, Facebook, youTube, and Sharing the stage with Katie, Jennifer Bilbro, sand words, a one-minute video is worth 1.8 Vimeo, which is highly curated. founder of Pink Bike Solutions, off ered her million words," he said. 18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International soured. Ferment comes with soaking; a deep Southern preparation for porridge…rice. Building a Business: Growing a Brand “If you don’t soak rice, you aren’t Gechee… Session 6 they are trying to get ferment.” He continues, By Kathy Gold (Philadelphia) Common themes were expressed through- “Nixtamal (lime-treated corn) is a native Pan out the narratives. Belinda Smith-Sullivan In her own words, moderator Melany american food from Chile to alaska,” use of Chef Belinda Spices, and Carrie Morey Robinson of Polished Pig Media, is pleas- it for hominy, tamales, arepas, and tortillas. of Callie’s Charleston Biscuits started their antly persistent. Her introduction of the Nixtamalization releases niacin and enhances businesses as many do, online, and from panelists for the fl avor. Glenn notes, “In the South, we make home. Even so, core business structures building-a-brand journey cakes—they are our tortillas.” and discipline are the ruling values. all four breakout left no Chestnuts, once the dominant nut of the women agreed on the importance of hiring doubt that we were Southeast, are high on the revivalist’s wish professionals, such as business advisors, in for an entertain- list. Th e american chestnut tree was nearly a PR agent, or a graphic artist. Belinda ing, highly informa- wiped out by chestnut blight fungus in the encouraged us all to learn how to delegate. tive, and wonderfully early 1900s. When the chestnut comes back, Her philosophy is to let employees rise up inspiring session. they plan to revive the old chestnut cookery and inspire her. Carrie told us that when it With topics that including slow-cooked, chestnut-fed hog. comes to sales, remember that “no” might ranged from the growth of their brands, the Restored food staples include Sea Island red just mean, not right now. and although she importance of a strong infrastructure, cus- peas, benne seed oil with fragrant “benne does delegate many responsibilities, Carrie tomer service, employee relations, and social cream” fl oating on top, and White lammas answers every email. and yes, the Golden media, these powerhouse women mapped a and Purple Straw wheat varieties, which were Rule still exists in customer relations. course for entrepreneurial success. milled for exquisite cake fl ours and whiskey. Melany off ered a Th e nuts and bolts of branding were In rescuing these forgotten treasures, David fi nal piece of sage described in detail. Ann Daw, President of and Glenn are on a quest for authenticity. advice to the at- the Specialty Foods association, emphasized Glenn remarked, “We stand on the shoulders tendees, “Surround the need for a strong positioning state- of the dawn of time from africa, with our yourselves with the ment (I’m reworking mine right now!). She fl avors and the techniques for these market ‘non-yes’ people— explained the diff erence between a product crops.” as an afterthought he added, “liquor, those who will tell and a brand, telling us that a brand is one’s cake, and biscuits…I could make a 20-course us what we don’t view and personality, and unlike a product, meal on that.” want to hear, but it can’t be duplicated. Our brand is what will David S. Shields is the author of Southern Pro- need to know.” visions, Th e Creation and Revival of a Cuisine. engender loyalty. Belinda Smith-Sullivan Shaking it up…Current Trends in the Beverage World L-R: Jaime Tenny, Mari- By Nichole Bendele Session 7 Elena Raya, Dame Ann (San antonio) Marshall, Diane Flynt, Hallie Arnold, and Dame Wine consultant and restaurateur Sarah Sarah O’Kelley (in back). O’Kelley moderated this packed session. R: Hallie, a mixologist, developed the cocktail Th e panel discussion began with trends then served to participants. refocused to dialog on what drives the passion Photos by Susan Slack. of each panelist for their beverage interest and products they created. Mari Elena Raya, owner of Th e Gin Joint, owning a brewery, she also is a member of as the tradespeople involved in selling your Bittermilk, and Tippleman’s said, “People want the South Carolina Brewer’s association. She product. “I want to remove as many layers be- to see what's going into their drinks.” She tries works to make better beers for the state as well tween us as I can and talk to my tradespeople to focus on natural products. She opened Th e as to improve its laws. to get my voice out, and give a deeper level of Gin Joint in 2010 with the aim of making Ann Marshall, owner of High Wire Distill- information without the fl uff .” “high brow” drinks in a “low brow” set- ery, says she created a broad variety of alcohol Hallie arnold of Bombay Sapphire stressed ting. With this in mind, she began making products to cater to many people. In 2013 the importance of front line sales. “People like products for consumers to easily create their she and her husband started the fi rst distillery to hear about the passion and the quality of the own mixed drinks at home. since Prohibition, making award-winning product. It gives the sales people a story.” Jaime Tenny of Coast Brewery, set out to small batch spirits while using a culinary Dames arriving for the session received a make quality beers, not something created for approach. On one innovative project they Raspberry-lemonade Cocktail with lychee a particular trend or fad. “I stayed true to my crafted exceptional watermelon brandy from soda, rosewater, and orgeat. additional prod- roots, and I am not adding Oreos or gummy local, heirloom watermelons. ucts were sampled after the presentation. Coast beers to my beer.” Diane Flynt, owner of Foggy Ridge Cider was poured ale, a milk stout, and an IPa (India She’s noticed that people want to know more nominated for the 2015 James Beard award Pale Beer). Foggy Ridge had two diff erent ci- about their food, but they aren’t as concerned for Outstanding Beverage Profession. a purist ders, one being made from the fi rst fruit of the with their beer. She wants people to be con- in her approach, she spoke on farming and season. High Wire Distillery brought an assort- cerned with what they are drinking. She tries growing complex, heirloom cider apples. “I ment of liquors. Bittermilk off ered samples of to use as many local ingredients as possible. wanted to make real cider, not something with its handmade cocktail mixers in various fl avors. “I would like to use local hops but hops aren’t added, unnatural fl avors.” She mentioned that Th is was a wonderful presentation and tasting able to grow here,” says Jaime. along with educating the public was important, as well experience to shake up our taste buds!

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 19 Media and Covering ask Th e Expert– Session 9 Southern Food through Jacqueline A. Henson, Esq. Marie Kelley Contributions: Chapter must Multiple lenses Session 8 (San Diego) acknowledge in writing contribu- Th e room was packed for a very tions of $250 or more; and quid By CiCi Williamson lots of vegetables,” explained spirited session: “ask the Expert: pro quo contributions greater than (Washington, D.C.) Brooke Bell (Birmingham), laws and $75. Th ese documents should be editor, Taste of the South maga- retained with other chapter docs. “abundantly local, micro- Regulations zine, and editorial director, Scholarships and Grants: “Giving regional, accompanied by Impacting Louisiana Cookin' magazine. a scholarship/grant is a charitable storytell- Chapters.” storytelling attendees activity.” Who can get it? anyone ing, food if they fulfi ll the requirements. Cre- from the Hanna says she’s so lucky to were on a mis- live here. “you can write about sion to better ate a set of rules and an application soul, and based on fi nancial need, talent, family anything including how blacks understand and white interact.” Brooke the legal issues and benefi t to the chapter/com- perpetu- munity etc. a Dame may receive a ated.” said, “We all have a respon- aff ecting their chapters. lDEI’s sibility to tell the stories ac- esteemed attorney Jacqueline scholarship/grant, as long as she is Th ese are not on the committee that makes some of curately.” “Each magazine has (Jackie) Henson of the law fi rm to develop its own fl avor, and Ober, Kaler, Grimes & Shriver the decision. Sending delegates to the descriptors panelists gave conference qualifi es and benefi ts for the globally hot cuisine of each recipe has to be rooted in aptly addressed the "Nonprofi ts a story,” opined Jessica. can't do that!" statement that sur- the chapter. Establish a chapter the South. value proposition for President/ Angel Postell (Charleston) of Where do you get story faces in most chapters from time to ideas? “Social media, lDEI time, then answered a multitude of delegate attendance. Home Team Public Relations, Reporting: all chapters must fi le who was for eight years execu- directory, Quarterly magazine” questions. Here are some highlights (Jessica). “looking as you walk & Section 501(c)(3) requirements Form 990 annually. It's a pub- tive director of the Charles- lic record. Schedule a is public. ton Wine + Food Festival, down the street.” (Hanna). that Jackie reviewed. “People telling you.” (Brooke). Operational Test: Th e primary Schedule B lists donors and it's not moderated the panel of four public. “Th ere is NO IRS rule on knowledgeable women. Th ey “attending conferences such activity must be charitable, edu- as Terra Vita in Chapel Hill” cational, literary and /or scientifi c what percentage must be used for discussed Southern foodways charity.” and how its face is shifting due (Jennifer). and conducted in the public inter- Who is doing it well? Edible est. Th e focus should be to provide Confl ict of Interest: is present to modern media and infl u- when director or offi cer has a mate- ence from other cultures and publications. a benefi t to the public. Documentation: a document rial personal interest. Th e Board regions. Multiple Lenses should address possible confl ict of What is Southern cuisine? retention policy should include “accents across the South Board of Directors’ (BOD) and interest at each meeting. Jennifer Cole, former Deputy vary greatly. Good to have au- Fundraising: Review State Chari- Southern Living meeting minutes, budgets and Editor of Mag- dio, multi-media. It connects table Solicitation Requirements azine, said, “Southern is a true treasurer reports, newsletters, fl iers, you to the story.”—Jennifer. web site, brochures, press releases, (consumer protection statute). regional cuisine, but it’s not “Try to think of the best way Must comply with state law for conventional. Th ere are micro- and expense reimbursement forms. to portray your voice in media. BOD minutes should be kept auctions. all fundraising materials regions. Food comes from Twitter is a huge communica- shall state use of funds and 501(c) the soul, not restaurants.” “a forever; all other documents a tions method.”—Jessica. “So- minimum of four years. Operating (3) information. use unlimited tasting menu is not a Southern cial media allows contact daily wording such as: “proceeds,” or “a thing,” added Hanna Raskin as a business, administrative and from readers to get feedback business costs are to be expensed portion of the proceeds”... will be (Charleston), food writer and on stories.”—Brooke. used for....Th is assumes that funds Th e Post with documentation. restaurant critic for will also be used for expenses and and Courier, Charleston’s daily Where is food in the Inurement: assets are dedicated south going? to a charitable purpose; they do administrative costs. “all pro- newspaper. ceeds”...assumes limited use. Jessica Mischner • Continued integration not belong to any single individual (Charles- Endowments, Donor lists and Garden of global fl avors. or entity, or to be controlled by an ton), senior editor, Social Networking were very briefl y and Gun—a magazine about • Exports, e.g. fried individual or entity. Th e organiza- chicken in France. tion may not be used for individual covered due to lack of time. Social the contemporary South’s Networking comments stressed sporting culture, related that • Korean, Pakistani, benefi t. It's important to keep Vietnamese infl uence expense reimbursement forms. the use of a photo disclaimer/ “Southerners are more brave to permission to use photo from new talk about their cuisine. It’s a in communities with lobbying: attempting to infl u- high population of these ence legislation. "Some lobbying, member applications to all events. story-telling culture.” Jennifer Much more to cover in a future added, “It’s so much rooted in ethnicities. not a lot, is allowed. It is OK to • american Northeastern support bills, but not the person/ session! Jackie recommends that the family. Recipes are closely every chapter should have an at- guarded; passed down via one and Northwestern chefs legislator." bringing their twists to Political activity: NONE! No torney and professional accountant person per generation.” or CPa. “It’s a myth that Southern the South. candidate may be endorsed. Th e • Our interest in local cuisine slightest bit of political activity lDEI recommends that every food isn’t healthy. People don’t BOD should hear this conference eat lard every day. We eat is inspiring regionalism in jeopardizes the Chapter's 501(c) foreign countries. (3) status. podcast!

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Lowcountry Live

A Taste of Charleston By Janet Burgess (la/OC) chicken from Springer Mountain Farms. Th ere were mounds of oysters from Mike lata of On a balmy Friday evening, Dames and their Th e Ordinary—and they were anything but guests took a short ordinary! andrea upchurch from Magnolia, stroll from the hotel Cypress, and Blossom contributed to our sweet to Brittlebank Park, tooth with Sweet Potato Pecan Pies, Spiced located along the ashley apple Cake, and Smokey S'mores. River. a huge tent was a fi ve-piece band played country songs dur- set up with picnic tables ing the evening; mood lighting and a grass and a bountiful spread fl oor added a rustic feel. you could identify of quintessential low- the local Dames as they all had their boots country dishes. liquid refreshments included on, but a lack of boots certainly didn't stop a full bar, delicious lemonade, and a wassail any attendees from the dancing fun. In fact, station with spiced cider. several Dames were overheard praising their local culinary students and their chef- former schoolteachers for teaching them how instructor from Wando High School manned to country dance. a biscuit bar that included platters of country Th ree Dames grabbed the microphone and ham and biscuit spreads. Slightly North of stunned us with their incredible singing. Nash- Broad, a lowcountry bistro, provided shrimp ville Dame Sylvia Ganier’s voice is reminiscent several diff erent ways. Walking around, we of the voice of the late, great contralto, Patsy sampled even more—Gulf shrimp, Creole Cline. Th e Dames’ singing debut ended far too Shrimp, and shrimp with corn, okra, and soon, and left everyone calling for more. red peppers. limehouse Produce provided a popular Grilled Vegetable Station, prepped Clockwise, top left, L-R: Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii); Valentina Harris and Jacqui Pickles (Lon- by Charleston Dames. Th at evening, many LDEI’s country divas added don); and Abigail Langlas (Hawaii). Photo: Mike of the food stations showcased local products sizzle to the evening: Mathes. Guests line up for Mike Lata’s extraordinary Julie Chernoff (Chicago), including grapes, squash, mushrooms, and oysters. Country Ham and Biscuits. Photos: Susan Debbie Loftis (Atlanta), and baby heirloom tomatoes. Slack. LDEI President Maria Gomez-Laurens and Sylvia Garnier (Nashville). her husband, Dean Laurens. Photo: Lori Willis. San Th e Charleston Dames went “whole hog” Photos by Susan Slack. and served up award-winning, pulled pork Antonio Dames Di-Anna Arias and Lucille Hooker Mi- enjoy boot scootin’ boogie with Carol Brock. Photo: barbecue from lowcountry Eats. Chef Susan Slack. Lowcountry pig pickin’—everything but chelle Weaver served Mac and Cheese, and the squeal! Photo: Mike Mathes.

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 21 Partners' Showcase Luncheon

ALASKA SEAFOOD Shining a Spotlight AMERICAN ROLAND MARKETING INSTITUTE on our Partners

By Teresa Farney (Colorado) as I traveled to Charleston to attend the lDEI annual Conference I couldn’t help thinking about one of my most eagerly anticipated events at the meeting: Th e Partners’ luncheon. and, why not? It’s one of the best meals during the weekend. and a wonderful way to personally say, “Th ank you to each partner for supporting our organization throughout the year, but especially at the conference.” Without their contributions the conference would not be the outstanding event it is each Linda Young and Kristina Hoffman Karl Uri and Claudia Hogue from year fi lled with amazing speakers and thought provoking from American Roland Food Group Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute seminars. Besides, we get to sample their food products dished up Five-Grain Kale Salad fed us Alaska Surimi Stuffed along with Caprese Skewers. Mushrooms and Alaska Snow Crab paired with award-wining wines. Th is year we even got a www.rolandfood.com Claws with Rouille Dipping Sauce. lesson on making trendy kombucha smoothies in the pow- www.alaskaseafood.org erful Vitamix blender. and, for the second year, we were able to get a little shopping therapy with special pricing on Wüsthof-Trident cutlery only at the special lunch. Here’s a quick recap of the delicious menu we grazed during the two-hour lunch. By the way, have a look at the web sites listed with each partner to fi nd some of these recipes or others for an opportunity to use the products all year. It’s another way to express your appreciation for our spon- BREVILLE USA CAKEBREAD CELLARS sor’s support. Be sure to friend them on Facebook, follow them on Tweeter, and other social media outlets.

Breville USA. Shaari Ward, and Cakebread Cellars paired dishes Amy Billetz delighted our taste buds with 2013 Chardonnay Napa Valley with Caramelized Pumpkin Bread and 2013 Pinot Noir Two Creeks Pudding with Bourbon Whipped Vineyards, Anderson Valley wines. Cream. In the photo: Grande Dame Dolores www.brevilleusa.com Cakebread. Charleston Dames L-R: Belinda Smith-Sullivan, Carrie Morey (behind), www.cakebread.com Susan Wigley, Beth Price, Paige Crone, Nathalie Dupree (seated), Jennifer Goldman, Libba Osborne, Deidre Schipani, Devany Vickery- Davidson. Photo: Devany Vickery Davidson.

Photos by Susan Slack

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International RIVIANA FOODS/ KIKKOMAN SALES USA LE CREUSET FERRA COFFEE/PAKAL MAHATMA RICE

Kikkoman Sales USA and Dame Colleen Jezersek and Le Creuset Ferra Coffee/Pakal and Dame Riviana Foods/Mahatma Rice and Helen Roberts treated us with showcased a colorful display of Susan Jaime inspired us with new Dame Debbie Wheeler introduced us Crispy Stuffed French Toast. their beautiful cooking vessels. They ﬂ avors of Hot Cocoa and Bee to Basmati with Curried Chickpeas www.kikkomanusa.com supplied the handsome stoneware Sweet Lemonade. and Bombay Dream Rice Pudding. pitchers on the tables during the ferracoffeeroaster.com www.rivianafoods.com.au Green Tables Breakfast and the Legacy Luncheon. www.lecreuset.com

STE. MICHELLE WÜSTHOF-TRIDENT WINE ESTATES VITAMIX WENTE FAMILY ESTATES OF AMERICA, INC.

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates poured Missie and Steve Sabo from Vitamix Lisa Kalfus and LeeAnn Kaufman Wüsthof-Trident of America, Inc. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2014 Horse whirred up Sweet & Spicy Beet poured fi ve Wente Family Estates used super sharp knives to carve Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Spread to enjoy with chips and wines: 2014 Wente Vineyards Single cranberry- and nut-stuffed pork and Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Honey Kombucha Smoothie. Vineyard Riva Ranch Chardon- loins. Sysco Corporation provided Indian Wells Red Blend. www.vitamix.com nay; 2013 Wente Vineyards Single the delicious pork. Dame Beth Allen www.ste-michelle.com Vineyard Riva Ranch Pinot Noir; and Julia Stambules. 2013 Wente Vineyards Southern Hills www.wusthof.com Cabernet Sauvignon; 2013 Murrieta’s Well The Whip; and 2012 Murrieta’s Well The Spur. wentevineyards.com

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 23 Susan Wigley (Charleston) .Mary Sutkus (St. Louis). Susan Jaime (San Antonio). Crafted in France, Cecily Hoffi us (St. Louis) Green Tables Chair Lynn Fredericks (New York). at home in the South. to the market’s kitchen and prepare, cook, Green Tables Breakfast and eat the produce they have selected. last year’s tragic events at Ferguson gave lDEI’s St. By Margaret Happel Perry louis Chapter the same need and opportunity (New york) as in Charleston—for community outreach to Th e truth of the asian saying that women promote healing. In helping re-open the sole hold up half the sky and represent much of remaining burger diner in Ferguson, the chap- the world’s unrealized potential was never ter showed the key power of food in providing more evident than when respite. Ferguson-based organic Earth Dance New yorker Lynn Fred- Farms—re-established in 2008—provided ericks, lDEI’s Green more opportunities. Th e owners have done Tables Chair, introduced much to stabilize and educate through school her program’s four panel- activities and scholarships. a six-year-old boy ists. Th e original content said the farm made him feel he was “doing of the presentations something for the world.” had evolved to show Susan Jaime, from lDEI’s San antonio how three very diff erent chapters in lDEI Chapter, reminded us that Green Tables has responded to recent catastrophes. Th e healing both local and international dimensions. Th e power of food became evident in these crises. chapter’s many initiatives embrace both the add the power of food to educate, given that needs of the majority latino community and children are at the heart of Green Tables pri- their children, and include a latino commu- mary mission, is still an lDEI membership- nity center where the seasonality and health skills driven initiative. benefi ts of fresh produce are taught. A Junior Susan Wigley of lDEI Charleston described Master Gardener Program at Wilson Elemen- how the atrocity at Mother Emmanuel tary School—in conjunction with resources Church in June had prompted an immediate from Texas a&M—is an empowering initia- and whole-hearted response from her chapter. tive that encourages children to plant, grow, Caterers provided food from cancelled public and eat the results of their work at the school events to feed overfl ow crowds of mourners salad bar. Similarly, Rescue Children From at the nine funerals. and chapter eff orts were Abuse is another multi-disciplinary program harnessed to be part of the team supplying that uses the same food education resources food for the many people gathered outside reinforced with reading and writing skills. the church, as well as for the police on crowd Success is evidenced by a waiting list to join control. In the summer heat, Dame-owned the twelve original program sites. businesses provided cases of water for the crowds. and all Charleston’s food community and industries participated in a fund-raiser, which realized over $600,000. Mary Sutkus and Cecily Hoﬃ us spoke Les Dames d’Escoffier, passionately about the extensive Green Tables programs in the St. louis Chapter. using welcome to our home in the the richness of their agricultural resources culinary capital of the South. as a springboard, food education began in Sharon Van Meter, Mary Chamberlin, and Suzanna Foo. 2008. Recipes from Home, is a child-tested and child-approved recipe program featuring Th e San antonio Chapter’s impressive local produce. Recipes voted the best are used overseas reach extends to Guatemala, where in one school district’s cafeteria—with input four Green Tables committees have organized from St. louis university. a fi ve-year success 80 families with 180 children. Th e goal is story has expanded the program to two more to teach the economic value of community- school districts. a second young student–fo- grown crops. Knowing that the national lecreuset.com cused program is Children at the Farmers’ labor pool contributes $18 billion to national Market, where students visit and explore the agriculture production, the families are able market and talk with farmers about the origin to negotiate their future from a position of of the produce. Th ey are encouraged to go strength. Th e power of Green Tables in action! 24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Chapter Photos

2016 BoarD oF Directors L-R Front: Deborah Mintcheff, Maria Gomez-Laurens, Bev Shaffer. Second row: Judith Bellos, Kathy Gold, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Ann Stratte. Back row: Lori Willis, Deborah Orrill, Stacy Zeigler. 2015 BoarD oF Directors L-R Front: Deborah Mintcheff, Lori Willis, Bev Shaffer, Beth Allen. Back row: Maria Gomez-Laurens, Deborah Orrill, Sharon Olson, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Stacy Zeigler, Ann Stratte.

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LonDon L-R: Jane Tran, Valentina Harris, and Jacqui Pickles. Houston L-R Front: Suzanne Fain, Julie Hettiger Nelson, Deborah L. Woehler. Back row: Yvonne Sterns, Sandra Alonso Shafer. PHiLaDeLPHia L-R Front: Linda Forristal, Barbara Samson, Lynn Buono, Judy Rusignuolo. Back row: Susanna Foo, Kathy Gold. san antonio L-R Front: Di-Anna Arias, Pat Mozersky, Susan Jaime, Blanca Aldaco, Linda Triesch. Back row: Mary Dunford, Lucille Hooker, Nichole Bendele, Kathy Gottsacker, Naylene Dillingham, Kathy Shearer. nortHeast L-R: Claire Tomlin, Barbara Spencer, Nancy Matheson-Burns, Christine Burns-Rudalevige. san DieGo L-R: Maria Laurens, Karen Contreras, Mary Platis, Marie Kelley, Marion "Mimi" Holtz. Monterey Bay L-R: Mary Chamberlin, Arlene Mead, Sharon Van Meter. cLeVeLanD L-R: Carol Hacker, Cynthia Eakin, Bev Shaffer, Terry Fricke. sacraMento L-R: Kathi Riley Smith, Ann M. Evans, Shannin Stein, Sue Huffman-Robison.

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 25 cle Cir ck o r DaLLas B L D EI

cle Cir ck o r neW yorK B L D EI HaWaii

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cle Cir ck o r san Francisco B L D EI

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neW yorK L-R Front: Linda Lawry, Joan Bloom, Joan Brower, Carol Brock (LDEI Founder), Beth Allen, Melanie Young, Rita Jammet. Second row L-R: Abigail Kirsch, Suzen O’Rourke, Alison Awerbuch, Jeanne Voltz, Mary Ellen Griffi n, Nancy Knoepfel, Vanessa Trost. Third row L-R: Meryl Evans, Margaret Perry, Karen Goodlad, Renée Marton, Janeen Sarlin, Roberta Morrell, Ronnie Campbell. Fourth row L-R: Carla Hall, Rachel Litner, Nancy Jessup, Deborah Mintcheff, Jane Kettlewell. DaLLas L-R FRONT: Lynn Mattie, Sally Bollick, Tina Wasserman, Sharon Van Meter. Back row: Deborah Orrill, Karel Anne Tieszen, Mary Kimbrough. HaWaii L-R Front: Kathi Saks, Abigail Langlas, Hayley Matson-Mathes. Back row: Kirsten Robinett, Laurie Carlson, Nancy Edney, Jocelynn McCann. nasH- ViLLe L-R Front: Sylvia Ganier, Erin Byers Murray. Back row: Lee Towery (red scarf), Melissa Corbin (white boa), Carla Hall, Nancy Knoepfel. Not pictured: Cara Graham. Minnesota L-R Front: Merrilyn Tauscher, Carrie Summer, Cindy Jurgensen. Back row: Lisa Carlson, Ingrid Gangestad, Barb Strand. seattLe L-R Front: Claudia Hogue, Beverly Gruber. Middle row: Jamie Peha, Kathy Casey, Cynthia Nims. Back row: Patricia Gelles, Anne Nisbet. san Francisco L-R Front: Mary Gassen, Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread (2015), Ann M. Evans, Sue Huffman Robison. Back row: Eileen Spitalny, Helen Roberts. Boston L-R: Toni Manning, Rose Ann Francis, Miriam Michalczyk, Guida Ponte. atLanta L-R Front: Julie Shaffer, Suzanne Brown, Lenada Merrick, Barbara Pires, Tammy Cook, Becky Minshew. Second row: Gloria Smiley, Angie Mosier, Holly Chute, Lynne Sawicky, Gayle Skelton. Third row: Robin Hamre, Carolyn O'Neil, Stacy Zeigler. Fourth row: Debbi Loftis, Cathy Conway, Ashley Mitchell, Mary Moore, Gaye Anderson. Second photo L-R: Kathleen Perry and Jennifer Booker.

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International cle Cir ck o r austin B L D EI

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cle Cir ck o r cHicaGo B L D EI

cle Cir ck o r BirMinGHaM MiaMi WasHinGton, D.c. B L D EI austin L-R: Beth Vlasich Pav, Carol Huntsberger, Carla Williams. ann arBor L-R: Antoinette Benjamin, Sandy Arlinghaus. nortH caroLina L-R Front: Stephanie L. Tyson, Sharon Van Vechten, Kelly Taylor, Sandra Gutierrez, Susi Gott Séguret. Back row: Vivián Joiner, Ellen Clevenger-Firley, Nancie McDermott, Colleen Minton. BritisH coLuMBia L-R Front: Becky Paris Turner. Second row: Lee Murphy, Stephanie Jaeger, Bonita Jo Magee, Kathy McAree, Cate Simpson (in back). Kansas city L-R: Mollie Fries, Jill Means. st. Louis L-R Front: Mary Sutkus, Judith Bellos, Roberta Duyff, Marilyn Freundlich. Back row: Lori Willis, Cecily Hoffi us. coLoraDo L-R: Sandra Dugan, Teresa Farney. KentucKy L-R Front: Judy Schad, Katie Payne, Michele Bowling. Back row: Elizabeth Weimer, Lisa Windhorst, Jamie Estes, Gina Brown. La/oc L-R Front: Maria Gomez-Laurens, Nancy Eisman, Janet Burgess. Back row: Ida Rodriguez, Alison Ashton. PaLM sPrinGs L-R: Francine Robertshaw, Nancy Cohee, Pamela Bieri. PHoeniX L-R: Candy Lesher, Charleen Badman. cHicaGo L-R Front: Brenda McDowell, Patricia Erd, Donna Pierce, Karen Levin, Julie Chernoff. Back row: Sofi a Solomon, Toria Emas, Sharon Olson, Sara Reddington, Mary McMahon. BirMinGHaM L-R Front: Pat Terry, Becky Satterfi eld. Back row: Angela Schmidt, Katherine Cobbs. MiaMi L-R Front: Margo Hofeldt , Jen Karetnick. Back row: Dorothee Rubin, Ana Plana. WasHinGton, D.c. L-R Front: Laurie Bell, Judy Rusignuolo, Janet Yu, Alison Ricketts.Middle row: Marie Ostrosky, Teresa Farney, Grande Dame Joan Nathan (2015-2016), Diane Neas, Drew Faulkner, Eileen Dykes, Linda Roth. Back row: Katherine Newell Smith, Edee Hogan, Susan Callahan, Nancy Hart, CiCi Williamson, Linda Joyce Forristal, Kari Barrett, Ann Stratte, Carla Hall. Not pictured: Nongkran Daks, Marsha Echols.

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 27 M.F.K. Fisher Awards Presentation a Sense of Self By Beth Pav (austin) Back in the kitchen the spark was ignited, and In the meantime, Dottie was exploring her food became a passion. own culinary chops. She enlisted her husband When an avid Diet Coke drinker says her Erin is currently the managing editor at Nash- to help her with her sense memory and looked soda is fl at then tastes another and says it’s still ville Lifestyles magazine and writes a column, to recipes in magazines and Erin for inspira- fl at, there’s something “at the Table.” She has worked for such publi- tion. Today she is part of a dining club. Dottie not quite simpatico. Th is cations as Boston magazine, Food & Wine, AOL is particularly honored to be the subject of her is what happened to Erin Travel, Huﬃ ngton Post and many more. daughter’s essay and part of such a distin- Byers Murray’s mother, She shared with the full-house crowd that her guished award. Dottie, after major head essay was very personal and took a long time to On M.F.K. Fisher, Erin says that she is such trauma. It is a symptom get out into the world—ten years. She credits an inspiration. She noted that M.F.K. speaks to of anosmia—the in- Ruth Reichl and amanda Hesser of Food52 as her through her writing. She shared that she is ability to smell; the topic two of her distant mentors during that time. honored and humbled by receiving the M.F.K. of Erin’s grand-prize essay In fact, she applauds amanda for sending back Fisher award for 2015. entry in lDEI’s prestigious M.F.K. Fisher her essay with notes. Erin says, “What matters In closing—and to thunderous clapping— awards titled, “Sense of Self.” is she encouraged me and wanted me to keep Erin gave her heartfelt thanks and shared her During the M.F.K. Fisher awards Presenta- going!” after 10 years she had signifi cant time own brand of sage advice, “always reach out to tion at this year’s Charleston Conference, to tweak her essay and was published in 2015 your mentors and listen to them, especially if Erin’s parents proudly looked on as she on www.foodthinkers.com. it’s your Mom!” described her mother’s condition, what it was like for her mother and as a teenager trying Erin Byers to help her mother and family traverse the Murray with her mother, Dottie sensory world of cooking. Byers, and father. How do I motivate mom to cook again? R: Erin and CiCi “Well, just jump in and help.” So she started Williamson, the with small cooking projects like making M.F.K. Fisher grocery lists and homemade pizzas—simple Chair. Photos: Susan Slack. things that were gratifying. She even tested her mother’s sense of smell by smoking cigarettes.

Breaking Brock Circle News from the Charleston Conference! By Mary Ellen Griffin (New york) and podcasts which preserve the valuable content as well as give access to the information to Dames beyond those who could Th ree Dames have stepped forward to join in ensuring the attend in person. and a generous donation from Alice Gautsch fi nancial stability of les Dames d’Escoffi er Foreman (Seattle) was supplemented by BC funds and used for International for the future. speaker enhancement and the leadership Forum. Julie Chernoff (Chicago), Teresa Farney cle Cir Th e Brock Circle and its members are the only reasons all of (Denver), and Dianne Hogerty (Kansas ck o these things could have happened. City) are the newest members to wear r Th e Brock Circle was the creation of the 2012 Board, and the Brock Circle pin. Th e insignia indi- B has grown to 32 individual, 1 corporate and 13 chapter cates an understanding of the strategic memberships as of press time. among the benefi ts of importance of supporting our organiza- L D membership are the honor of wearing the Brock Circle pin tion and its goals, and the generosity to EI (or receiving a beautiful plaque) and an invitation (one per step up and make a serious commitment $10,000 commitment) to a special reception at Conference. to it. Most importantly, Brock Circle members know that they are While the majority of the funds collected to date ensuring the fi nancial future of lDEI and what we stand for. are in highly secure investments for the future, it was always en- additional details about Th e Brock Circle, and a list of mem- visioned that a small portion of the annual installments ($1,000 bers, can be found at www.ldei.org, in the “about us” section. per BC member per year over ten years) would be available for current strategic purposes. L-R: Teresa lDEI Past President Lori Willis (St. louis) commented, “We Farney, Stacy Zeigler, Lori want to spend the money on strategies that will support our Willis, Julie mission and provide the most benefi t to the organization as a Chernoff, and whole or the greatest number of members. Education and train- Carol Brock. ing, and their digital deployment, are key.” To that end, the 2015 Conference benefi ted from recordings

28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Legacy Awards Luncheon

Legacy Winners: Jennifer Moniz (holding toy gun). L-R Back row: Katie Groffman, Christine Burns Rudalevige, Kelly Marie Patkus, Van Doren Chan. Table photo: Lori Willis. Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread (L) and Mary Ellen Gassen. Photo: Susan Slack L-R: Alison Awerbuch, Lori Willis, and Sue Huffman-Robison. Photo: Susan Slack Fresh Berry Tart with Whipped Cream. Photo: Lori Willis Minnesota Dames: Merrilyn Tauscher, Ingrid Gangestad, Barb Strand, Cindy Jurgensen. Photo: Susan Slack. a legacy of leadership

By Nancie McDermott owned company. maître-d and sommelier. (Charleston) Christine Burns Rudalevige (Brunswick, Jennifer Moniz (atlanta) spent a week in Maine) went to Good Housekeeping magazine los angeles, learning about many aspects Th e legacy awards luncheon gave Dames in New york City and was hosted by Susan of the varied and complex work of Melissa’s a memorable presentation of how the awards’ Westmoreland and Sharon Franke. Christine World Variety Produce where Nancy Eisman mission, of “Investing in tomorrow’s food, valued being part of the Good Housekeeping hosted her. She went to the los angeles beverage, and hospitality leaders” came to team and enjoyed recipe testing, taking part Wholesale Produce Market at 4:00 a.m., life for six outstanding in story-development conferences and other visited Harry’s Berry Farm for some organic women in the world of opportunities, which helped her “…fi nd her strawberry cobbler, shadowed the Executive food. Established in 2009, inner geek”! Christine came away eager to Chef at Dodger Stadium for a day, and did a the awards are hosted surround herself with people like those she demo for Melissa’s crew at their Friday Family by Dames in the uSa, worked with at Good Housekeeping, who see Meal: fried green tomatoes with corn muffi ns, Canada, and the uK, and other women the business as resources, and not atlanta-style. off er an intense, weeklong as fearful competition. Seattle Dame Kari Leitch of Chateau Ste. immersion in an area of Kelly Marie Patkus (Charlotte, North Michelle Wine Estates in Woodinville, Wash- special interest. Carolina) traveled to the Big Island of Hawaii ington hosted ashley Hawkins (austin), who Hosted by Kikkoman uSa and Wente Family where her sponsor, Lesley Hill, owns Wailea wasn’t able to attend the conference. you can Estates, the event featured an elegant luncheon agricultural Group. She learned the process of read about ashley’s experience of learning to accompanied with fi ne Wente wines. Five of growing, harvesting, cutting, and packing heart create beautiful wine from grape to glass in the the six winners attended and shared the high of palm, and harvesting fresh nutmeg. Kelly spring Quarterly issue. (Th e six winners will be points of their externships with the guests. Th e appreciated Hawaii’s abundance, then came featured.) four award categories were Culinary; Food and home eager to increase access to fresh food for In a ballroom fi lled with energy, joy, and Wine Journalism; Wine; and Farm-to-Table. everyone and to work with school children on generosity, we celebrated the winners’ successes Katie Groff man (San Francisco), who was growing and cooking food. and were reminded that the awards wouldn’t be hosted by Carolyn Wente and Amy Hoopes, Van Doren Chan (Vancouver) went to Res- possible without the generosity of Dames who shared her experience at Wente Family Estates taurant Nora in Washington, D.C. to learn welcome them to their places of work, year in livermore, Ca. She spoke of Wente’s com- from Nora Pouillon about working with after year. Without the hosts who mentor each mitment to sustainability and balance, across local, sustainable ingredients, to understand winner, there is no program! We gave a rousing all aspects of the company. She saw their produce, and how to treat each and every round of applause for Sue Huff man-Robison concern not just for making money, but how ingredient with great respect and care. Th is (San Francisco) and Alison Awerbuch (New they do so. She noted the excitement and pride experience enriches the knowledge she has york) who headed the 2015 legacy awards in every person she spoke to during her stay already attained, growing up in a restaurant committee with passionate dedication to mak- about being part of this renowned, family- family since childhood, and working as a ing this a gold star experience.

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 29 Grande Dame Award Banquet

“It was a sea of colorful feather boas, furs, and fl apper-inspired clothing with long strands of pearls and sassy feather headbands. Enthusiastic Dames and guests mingled, enjoying the superb sparkling wine...” Brenda McDowell Th e Fabulous Finale

By Brenda McDowell (Chicago) after enjoying three action-packed days of Southern hospitality, Dames roared into the Crys- tal Ballroom at the Charleston Marriott to end the conference in style…the style of the Roaring 20s as was quickly evidenced by looking around the pre-dinner reception. It was a sea of colorful feather boas, furs, and fl apper-inspired clothing with long strands of pearls and sassy feather headbands. Enthusiastic Dames and guests mingled, enjoying the superb sparkling wine from dinner sponsor Wente Family Estates. as time for dinner neared, the grand celebration party continued as we moved into a magnifi cently decorated ballroom where beautiful bouquets of red and white roses graced the elegantly appointed tables, all fi tting for feting our Grande Dame— Joan Nathan, lDEI’s 13th Grande Dame. Charleston Dame Nathalie Dupree provided a fi tting tribute to the internationally known and 1 revered award-winning cookbook author, charter member of the Washington, D.C. Chapter, and dedicated philanthropist. She praised Joan as being generous, warm-hearted and giving, someone people can learn from. Joan says she is continu- ously studying and learning. In fact, she wrote the fi rst of her 11 cookbooks when she was working in Jerusalem in the early 70s. as we sipped more incredible wines, lisa Kalfus, senior director of marketing for Wente, shared highlights about the fi ve special wines chosen to complement the evening’s menu, which in- 2 3 4 cluded delicious alaskan king crab and black cod provided by dinner sponsor, the alaska Seafood Marketing Institute. 1. L-R: Grande Dame Joan Nathan, 2016-2017; Outgoing President Lori Willis; and 2011 Grande Lori Willis Dame Nathalie Dupree. Photo: Mike Mathes. 2. Marie Gomez-Laurens and Dean Laurens. Photo: Outgoing lDEI president spoke Susan Slack. 3. L-R Front: Carolyn O'Neil, Mollie Fries, Jill Means. Back: Hayley Matson-Mathes, about her amazing journey as president, saying Greg Jewell, Mary Ellen Griffi n, Beth Pav. Photo: Mike Mathes. 4. Red rose centerpiece with that she hopes she has left the organization in a feathers and pearls. 5. Carol Brock. Photos: Susan Slack. 6. L-R: Becky Paris Turner, Cate Simpson, better place, poised for more growth in 2016. Julie Chernoff, Katherine Newell Smith, Hayley Matson-Mathes. Photo: Mike Mathes. 7. Flapper Incoming president Maria Gomez-Laurens fabulous! 8. LDEI President Maria Gomez-Laurens. Photo: Susan Slack. 9. Sharon Olso, Brenda McDowell, Sara Reddington, Mary McMahon, Karen Levin, Sofi a Solomon. Photo: Mike Mathes. ended with moving words about what one can 10. Paige Crone and Jennifer Goldman. 11. Carla Hall. Photo: Julie Hettiger. 12. Lori and Mick accomplish as a Dame, and what a privilege it is to Willis. Photo: CiCi Williamson.13. Marie Kelley. 14. Second Course: Alaskan King Crab with be a part of the organization. In fact, she said she Pomegranate Vinaigrette. Photo: CiCi Williamson. 15. L-R: Donna Gustafson and Cecila Cerasoli. “felt sprinkled with stardust” when she became a Photo: Susan Slack. 16. L-R: Yvonne Sterns, Sandra Alonso Shafer. Photo: Julie Hettiger. member of lDEI. Th en it was time for saying good night, y’all… until we meet again next year in Washington, D.C.

30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 5 6 7 8

11 12

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WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 31 CHAPTER NEWS Janet Burgess (LA/OC) ANN ARBOR | ATLANTA | AUSTIN | BIRMINGHAM | BOSTON | BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA | CHARLESTON | CHICAGO CLEVELAND/NORTHEAST OHIO | COLORADO | DALLAS | HAWAII | HOUSTON | KANSAS CITY/HEART OF AMERICA KENTUCKY | LONDON, ENGLAND | LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY | NORTH CAROLINA | MEXICO | MIAMI | MINNESOTA MONTEREY BAY AREA | NASHVILLE | NEW YORK | NORTHEAST | PALM SPRINGS | PHILADELPHIA | PHOENIX | PORTLAND SACRAMENTO | SAN ANTONIO | SAN DIEGOSAN FRANCISCO | SEATTLE | ST. LOUIS | WASHINGTON, D.C. ATLANTA In late October 2015, Past President Beth Vlasich Pav, Carol Carla Williams Toni Tipton- Gayle Skelton Huntsberger, board member , and Marin attended our annual conference in Charleston. It was We began the fall season with our 3rd annual Schol- a memorable conference meeting new and catching up with arship Dinner & Reception, graciously hosted by the old friends, networking, and learning. We also enjoyed the city gorgeous atlanta History Center. Th is is where it all of Charleston and want to extend a special thank you to our comes together, as we celebrate our outstanding 2015 Charleston Dame hosts. your hospitality was superb and we will scholarships and grant recipients. It was truly an inspira- always remember #damesdointhecharleston! tional evening, and I loved having the opportunity to see fi rst-hand the diff erence we make in the lives of so many special women. BIRMINGHAM In September, we welcomed our outstanding Dames Martha Johnston Class of 2015 with a lovely reception prepared by the We Southerners know Dames Class of 2014. Th is has become a new tradition for cornmeal, but we are our chapter, and each year we look forward to seeing the not so familiar with “new” Dames pass the torch, so to speak. arepas. Th ey are eaten later in September, we paid tribute to the memory of in Venezuela in place Lea Bruekner by bringing her idea to life with the fi rst of bread and are perfect ever “Dames Who Play in the Kitchen.” To be hosted each any time of the day ac- quarter, this is a social, interactive experience–cooking for cording to Gia McCol- fun, good causes, and fellowship. lister, who presented For our October meeting, Robert Schueller, of Melissa's a how-to class for our Produce, hosted us at the Produce Marketing associa- group in august. She tion Expo for a special inside produce trends presentation shared her secrets for followed by an experience at the Expo, the largest produce success and presented show in the u.S. endless authentic fi llings Fall was highlighted by afternoon in the Country and traditional South (aITC), our signature event and largest fundraiser. Not american fruit bever- even rain (or as Holly Chute called it, liquid sunshine) ages for sampling. could put a damper on our celebrations in the 15th year of In September, Pardis aITC at Serenbe Farms. Cheers to the next 15 years! Stitt hosted members in L-R: Pardis Stitt, Jan Walsh, and Susan the courtyard at Bottega Swagler sample a variety of arepas fi llings. Restaurant. Not only L-R: Jan Walsh, Becky Satterfi eld, and AUSTIN Susan Nash at the Bottega luncheon. Beth Vlasich Pav did we share a wonderful meal and toast to the October 4 marked group, but also we had an in-depth tutorial on social media the day for the presented by new member Jan Walsh. austin Dame's fall Kay Bruno Reed entertained us at her home on a beauti- fundraiser titled, ful Southern evening in October. She prepared supper in her Food Fight! En outdoor kitchen and off ered a variety of wines. Conversation Garde! Chaired around the poolside table focused on the upcoming Charleston by Carol Hunts- conference and fund raising projects for our group. berger, owner of We have welcomed Idie Hastings, Melany Robinson, and austin's renowned Jan Walsh as new members of the Birmingham Chapter. Quality Seafood, it was held in the beautiful Jardins BOSTON de laV Restaurant. Lucille Giovino Delectable hors another Boston First: as many of you who attended the 2014 d'oeuvres were lDEI Conference in Boston experienced, this was the fi rst time created by 2013 the conference schedule was available on your smartphone with James Beard semi- L-R: Nathalie Dupree, Beth Vlasich Guidebook. Dame Adrienne Giovino volunteered to imple- fi nalist Chef Janina Pav, Carla Williams, and Carol Hunts- ment the Guidebook app after using it many years at other O'Leary with wines berger. LDEI Food Fight! L-R: Chair Carol events. It included many features such as easy access to Facebook curated to pair. Huntsberger and Beth Vlasich Pav. and Twitter, and the ability to push live updates to users if the During our silent schedule changed. It was so successful that Charleston used it auction, guests had an opportunity to bid on over 50 items for the 2015 Conference. Recently elected as communications including culinary experiences, products from local food director for lDEI Boston, adrienne is the granddaughter of artisans, and much more. In less than two hours we reached Grande Dame Eda Saccone, who founded the Boston Chapter just over $21,000—a substantial increase from last year. in 1959. 32 Les Dames d’Escoffier International CHARLESTON ful beer tasting and tour of the brewing facility. They learned Susan Slack about the brewing process, the different types of beer styles, and the history and background of Epic Brewing Company. Megan At the Charleston Chapter’s Annual Stromberg set up the event and brought homemade pickles to Autumn Affair fundraiser held at pair with the beers. She did a beautiful job decorating for the fall Lowndes Grove Plantation during holiday season. Proceeds raised from the event went to our 2016 the Charleston Conference, one of scholarship fund. We look forward to having more educational the coveted silent auction items was and team-building events in the near future. a 2-hour cocktail party for 25 lucky guests. The auction winner—a local business—bid on the event as a fes- Dallas tive, yet memorable Christmas party, Suzanne Felber which made giving back to the com- The Dallas Chapter munity part of their mission. was excited to welcome The Dame donors who hosted the event were Ann Marshall (High Wire four new members at Distilling Company), Marion Sullivan, (Culinary Institute of Charles- our Annual Meeting and ton), Nicki Root (Grassroots Wine Wholesalers), Tayna Gurrieri (Salt- Induction Dinner. Leann house Catering), and Hanna Raskin (Post and Courier). Marion reports Berry, Laurie Bostic, that they fulfilled their auction obligation at High Wire Distilling, located Micheline Hynes, and in the heart of downtown Charleston. She and Hanna worked behind Wendy Moss bring the bar: Marion poured Grassroot’s wine, and Hanna poured High Wires’ diverse backgrounds with specialty cocktails, which were accompanied by an elegant display of ap- decades of experience to petizing, cocktail party fare supplied by Salthouse Catering. The evening our group. We are excited was a success; everyone had a great time—and for a really great cause! about the energy and enthusiasm they bring with CLeveland them. Our new president, Chef Joanne Bondy, Shara Bohach started off her year with The Cleveland Chapter, looking lots of projects and ideas to increase awareness and visibility, including planning our acquired royal blue aprons with annual fundraiser— the chapter logo for volunteers to Raiser Grazer—that will wear at events. Cleveland Dames at REAP Benefit 2015, be held on April 3 at the Cleveland Dames had a busy “Night on the Farm” wear their new Dallas Farmers’ Market. month of volunteering and logo aprons. L-R: President Carol Hacker, Dallas Dames attend the screening of Marla Monzo-Holmes, Maggie Harrison, Nikky Phinyawatana and Burnt. Dames are judges at the Texas State representing LDEI in August. Joanne Self worked tire- Paula Hershman, Marla Monzo Shara Bohach, and Paula Hershman. Fair. The Dallas Dames Annual Dinner Photo by Eric Eakin lessly to organize a screen- Holmes Maggie Harrison Shara , , ing of the film “Burnt” Bohach Carol Hacker , and volunteered their time at the REAP (Refugee at the Studio Movie Empowerment Agricultural Program) Benefit 2015, “Night on the Farm.” Grill. They laid a red The event was attended by 350 guests and took place at the Ohio City carpet that many of our Farm. It benefited The Refugee Response in Northeast Ohio. The Refugee Dallas members walked. Response empowers refugees to become self-sufficient and contributing The State Fair of Texas Terry Frick members of their new community. Paula Hershman and is a place where you can volunteered their time at the Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association often see our members Cynthia Schuster-Eakin Gloria Kemer benefit. , , Paula, and Shara repre- participating in creative sented the chapter at Local Foods Monday, a monthly event that seeks to arts competitions or improve the local food economy and showcases local food businesses. judging various cooking As you can see from our volun- and baking competitions, teer activities, the new aprons are and this year was no being put to good use! In Sep- exception. Many of our tember, we welcomed four new members could be seen chapter members at the Annual tasting cakes, cookies, and Car- Meeting, which was held at of course, chili! mella Gragassi's La Campagna. KENTUCKY COLORADO Jamie Estes Sandra Dugan The newly minted Over the past few months the Kentucky Chapter of Colorado Chapter has been busy LDEI raised $2,300 on a Kentucky Holiday Cookie Fundraiser L-R: building relationships and work- Board members Michele Bowling, Judy cold Saturday in Decem- Schad, Jamie Estes, Katie Payne, and ing to update the chapter bylaws ber at its first fundrais- Program Chair Traci Badenhausen bundled L-R: Ellen Daehnick, Megan Stromberg, and policies. The chapter recently er—a Holiday Cookie up to work the cookie sale. Katie Payne Marlene Swanson, Sandra Dugan, Megan (L) and members of the Sullivan faculty had a wonderful opportunity to Bucholz, Kuvy Ax, and Carol Fenster. Sale held at the Copper have one of their board meetings at and students helped cookie sale Chair Kim L-R: Megan Bucholz, Kuvy Ax, Carol Fen- & Kings Distillery. The Jones (second from right) to sort, bag, and Epic Brewing Company in Denver. ster, Michele Morris, Ellen Daehnick, Me- proceeds will go for deliver 160 dozen cookies.Kentucky Board Dames were treated to a wonder- gan Stromberg, and Marlene Swanson. scholarships and Green members Lisa Windhorst and Judy Hollis.

WINTER Quarterly 2016 33 Tables activities. Michele Bowling came up with the event idea, a breakfast for visiting culinary Dames including Nancy which was chaired by Kim Jones, the department chair at Sul- Harmon Jenkins, Nora Pouillon, Madhur Jaff rey, and our livan university’s National Center for Hospitality Studies. Th ey own award-winning Jen Karetnick. We look forward to our led a group of 20 volunteers and students to organize, solicit, and annual fund-raising Giant Gourmet Garage Sale in 2016. procure cookie donations from 40 Dames, local chefs, and cooks. Th e festive cookies sold out in 90 minutes! “Th is shows what can happen when you get a group of de- NASHVILLE termined women together,” said Michele. “We can’t thank the Mindy Merrell Kentucky Dames enough for their hard work in making our fi rst On September 20, Maneet Chauhan graciously hosted fundraiser a huge success. Kim and Katie Payne really stepped up the fi rst ever les Dames Nashville benefi t dinner and in a big way. We also owe a huge thanks to Sullivan university for silent auction—in support of the scholarship fund—at her getting behind the project. Th e local chefs really supported our ef- lovely restaurant forts and we look forward to 2016 being even bigger and better!” Chauhan ale and Masala House. Anne Byrn spear- LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY headed the event Patti Londre that also included Janet Burgess special guest and SaVE THE DaTE! On Saturday, april 2, 2016, the traditions of Nashville native les Dames d' Escoffi er continue! Th e la/OC Chapter will host Carla Hall. Th e a reception for Dames during the IaCP annual conference in los dinner featured 15 L-R: Nathalie Dupree, Sylvia Garnier, Da- angeles this coming april. Don't miss the opportunity to experi- signature creations vid Shields, Cynthia Graubart, and Anne Patti Byrn at The Green Door. ence los angeles' hottest Westside community, Playa Vista. by Chef Maneet. Londre will open her Playa Vista home on Saturday, april 2, 6:30 On October 9, Sylvia Ganier, owner of Green Door p.m. for a fabulous lDEI reception graciously sponsored by Wente Gourmet, an organic farm and event center, hosted and Vineyards, Melissa's Produce, and Cabot Creamery. Following, educational fi reside chat on Southern ingredients, old and plan to walk the few blocks, jump on the PV Shuttle or just drive yourself to the “Runway,” Playa Vista's hub of restaurants and new, with author David Shields and cookbook authors Cynthia Graubart Nathalie Dupree entertainment. Details will come to you closer to the date, but for and Grande Dame . now, plan to join us in los angeles on april 2. Th e three authors were in Nashville for the Southern On November 22, the la/OC Chapter held their annual Festival of Books. More than 50 were in attendance at the Membership Meeting in Tustin at Zov Karamardian's, Zov's event, which was open to les Dames members and the Bistro & Café. attended by 47 members, the meeting recognized public. Proceeds benefi t the Nashville Chapter scholarship new members and sponsors as well as honored Dame Cathy program. Th e cocktail reception was a group eff ort thanks Th omas. It was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with fellow to Emily Frith, Nancy Knoepfel, Jessica Collins, Mary- Dames over a great meal. lou Tate, anne Byrn, and Mindy Merrell. Nashville Dame Erin Byers Murray was awarded the prestigious grand prize M.F.K. Fisher award for Excellence MIAMI in Culinary Writing at the 2015 annual Conference in Ellen Kanner Charleston. In October, the Miami On November 5, the Dirty Pages exhibit that celebrates Chapter celebrated our 18 Nashville women from varied backgrounds and the 15-year anniversary with well-used recipes that tell their stories moved to its per- a tribute gala at the Man- manent new home in New Orleans at the Southern Food darin Oriental. Th e event, and Beverage Museum. Th e project was the brainchild of co-chaired by Alejandra Jennifer Justus and Erin Byers Murray. Bigai and Laura Mon- LDEI founder Carol Brock and Miami ges, honored Miami chef Chapter President Dorothée Rubin (in Cindy Hutson. Over 130 black) dance the night away at the Miami NEW YORK Chapter's 15th anniversary tribute gala. Dames and guests—includ- Photo: Libby Volgyes. Linda Lawry ing lDEI founder Carol We held our new member induction dinner at the Brock—feasted and danced the night away. Th e best part of the elegant lafayette restaurant on Monday, September party was the proceeds we raised for our scholarship program. 28. Over 80 lDNy members attended. Th e food was Th en it was on to Charleston for the lDEI Conference. Represent- scrumptious and Kendall-Jackson kindly donated deli- ing Miami were President Dorothee Rubin, delegates Vice President cious wines. Sharon Franke and Joan Coukos were the Ana Plana, and Jen Karetnick whose new book Mango received an genius organizers behind the event and Joan, our great M.F.K. Fisher award, Cindy Lasky, Claire Tomlin, Margot Hofelt, chocolatier, gave everyone a gift bag of excellent choco- and Ann Chassen. all returned energized by a weekend of vibrant late. It was a wonderful evening. Damely exchanges and Charleston hospitality. Th e Next Big Bite on October 26 was a huge success. a Rozanne Gold In November, the Green Tables Committee, chaired by Ellen panel of important food experts, , Mimi Amanda Hesser Amanda Cohen Kanner, kicked off Miami's growing season by arranging a visit Sheraton, , , and Dr. Marion Nestle enlightened us with their predictions to Paradise—Paradise Farms. Two dozen Dames and their fami- on what will happen in the food world in the coming lies followed Gabriele Marewski through a walking and tasting year. Held in the spectacular new facility of Institute of tour of her organic farm, followed by a fresh-from-the-fi eld, Culinary Education in the World Trade Center district of farm-to-table lunch. Manhattan, we had wonderful food and drink donated by Th e following week, as part of Miami Book Fair International, abigail Kirsch Caterers, Kobrand Corporation, and Elit the Outreach Committee, chaired by Nancy Ancrum, hosted Vodka by Stolichnayaelit. lovely gifts were given to the 34 Les Dames d’Escoffier International panel and to attendees from Wüsthof and Cuisinart. Marsha Palanci ence producer Jamie and Aileen Robbins were the guiding lights behind this event. Peha was approved as a celebration of Jacques Pepin's 80th birthday took place on No- Vice-President along vember 17 at the Good Housekeeping Test Kitchens. His new book is with many new board called Heart and Soul in the Kitchen, and that is precisely what Jacques members. New mission off ers to readers and viewers—his heart and soul. Spending time with and vision statements him was an experience to remember. We thank Sharon Franke for ar- for the chapter were also ranging this special event. approved. Th e evening fi nished with a rousing SAN ANTONIO celebration in honor of Beverly Gruber, a found- Julia C. Rosenfeld ing Seattle Dame, who Th e San antonio Chapter raised more than $60,000 in seed money has retired from her job as for the budding aspirations Grant Program during their inaugural executive director. Plate Changer luncheon on September 30. Keynote speaker Kristin Dame Kari Keitch host- Groos Richmond and featured speaker Dr. Julie la Barba encouraged ed ashley Hawkins, win- 300 plus attendees to consider making healthy plate changes indi- ner of a 2015 les Dames Lauren Browning Susan vidually and institutionally. Co-Chairs and d’Escoffi er legacy award, Johnson led a team of collaborators who served a deliciously healthy for a career-expanding, seasonal lunch. Th e details of the grant, which will off er assistance to weeklong externship at Alison Leber, Legacy Award recipient innovative women in culinary fi elds focused on nutritional health, will Chateau Ste. Michelle be announced in the future. Ashley Hawkins, and Cynthia Nims at Wine Estates—the oldest Beecher’s Cheese in Pike Place Market. winery in Washington Fran Bigelow at Fran’s Chocolates. L-R: SEATTLE State. Cynthia Nims and Pam Montgomery, Karen Binder, and Nicole Aloni Cynthia Nims at the Seattle Chapter Nicole Aloni rounded out meeting at Fran’s Chocolates. august 29 was our 3rd annual Green Tables Summer Supper & Farm her stay with a day touring Tour in the Skagit Valley. Th e wildly successful fundraiser included visits fi ve Dame-owned or supported businesses around the Seattle area. to Taylor Shellfi sh Farm Stand, farms, and Christianson’s Nursery. Th e Each Dame extended Seattle’s delicious hospitality to ashley. day ended with an alfresco dinner at the home of Cathy Connor on Fir Fran’s Chocolate’s new facility in Georgetown was the setting Island, which she prepared in coordination with chefs Monique Barbeau for our October meeting. Th e place is spectacular—worthy of a and Leslie Mackie. visit even without the incentive of Fran Bigelow’s world-famous Our annual General Meeting, held at the elegant Cedarbrook lodge, chocolates. Th e highlight of the evening was a heartfelt talk from was a smashing evening. Out-going President Katherine Kehrli passed LDEIFran Ad 2015_Layout about how her 1 9/14/15unfl agging 10:53 passion AM Page for 1her business has kept it the gavel to new president Cynthia Nims. Seattle Food & Wine Experi- fresh for her over 33 years.

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WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 35 MEMBER MILESTONES Dottie Koteski Philadelphia austin with stories that refl ect Vermont tradi- Beth Vlasich Pav, tions. http://www.ellenogden.com Founder/Chef of Tracey Medeiros has written a new book, Beth Pav's Cook- Th e Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook ing by Design, was (Th e Countryman Press).Th e book in- a contributor to cludes 150 home-grown recipes from the a Reader’s Digest Nutmeg State. Beautiful photographs and magazine (and on- a bumper crop of recipes showcase the line) article titled, best of Connecticut’s farm-inspired fare. "Quick Fixes for Beth Vlasich Pav Th anksgiving san antonio Food Mistakes," in November 2015. Guida Ponte Photo by Susan Slack Bunny Becker's winery—Becker http://www.rd.com/food/recipes- tea plantation. Jennifer Wolcott is assisting Vineyards—was one of fi ve wineries in cooking/fi x-thanksgiving-food- the united States nominated for "Best mistakes/ Guida with the tours. Visit azoresfoodtour. com or email [email protected]. Winery of america" by Wine Enthusiast BirMinGHaM magazine. coLoraDo Angela Schmidt, Tanji Patton has been tapped to do a Owner/Chef u, Carol Fenster’s cookbook, 1,000 Gluten- television series for Goodtaste.tv. Th e and Maureen program features wonderful stories from Holt, Chef/Owner Free Recipes, won a silver medal in the fabulous restaurants and wine fi nds in little Savannah, San antonio, Houston, austin, and the have launched “Favorite Cookbook” contest by Gluten- Hill Country. Th e series is titled “Good- Southern Graze, taste with Tanji.” a pop-up series FreeRecipeBox.com. additionally, she was san Francisco of food dinners Angela Schmidt Carol Fenster that feature a new awarded the bronze Antonia Allegra announces the NEW perspective on old traditions. Th ey medal for “Favorite author” in the same Symposium for Professional Food Writ- will promote local foods/products contest. Carol was the featured author at ers. Th is non-profi t conference with af- and bring other women into the mix. the 2015 Harvest Fest at Th e Winery at fi liated educational programs and online www.facebook.com/southerngraze Holy Cross abbey in Cañon City, Colora- food-writing activities is scheduled for do in September. http://www.savorypalate. fall, 2016 at Th e Culinary Vegetable Idie Hastings and her husband, com/index.php/1000-gluten-free-recipes/ Chris, have opened OvenBird at Bir- Institute in Milan, Ohio. Th is past Sep- mingham’s Pepper Place. It is a casual, Los anGeLes/oranGe county tember, Toni presented a “Negotiation” live-fi re restaurant Carole Bloom, CCP, is a Craftsy.com IaCP webinar. www.spfw.org where everything instructor. Her class, seattLe on the menu is Th e art of Caramel: Nicole Aloni was awarded an advanced either cooked in a Techniques and Treats, CPCC certifi cation as a professional wood–fi red oven launched in Novem- coach, recognized by the International or on an open ber. She teaches many Coaching Federa- fi replace. Before it caramel techniques and tion. Her coaching Food was fi nished, recipes. Craftsy.com is a practice focuses on & Wine proclaimed new and exciting mobile supporting clients, Ovenbird one of Idie Hastings learning website. Carole Bloom particularly chefs, america’s “8 amazing neW yorK entrepreneurs, and New Grill Restaurants.” cookbook authors, www.ovenbirdrestaurant.com Karen Benvin Ransom was named Volun- teer of the year at Th e Katonah Museum, when they fi nd it’s Idie Hastings and Maureen Holt time for reinvention. which is located in Katonah, Ny. She were featured as “Trailblazers in Bir- www.nicolealoni. Nicole Aloni recently guided fellow Dames during the mingham’s Food and Beverage Scene” com museum’s Iceland exhibit. www.Karen- in the fall 2015 Journal from the Karen Binder served another year as College of arts and Sciences at the FromKatonah.com nortHeast chairperson of the food and beverage university of alabama at Birming- committee for the american Cancer ham. www.hotandhotfi shclub.com, Ellen Ecker Ogden Society Gala auc- www.littlesavannah.com, announces her new- tion that was held www.uab.edu/cas est book, Th e Vermont in September. She Boston Country Store Cookbook, is proud that the Guida Ponte is off ering culinary tours featuring heirloom reci- 2015 fundraiser of her stunningly beautiful island of pes that bring to life this doubled the amount Sao Miguel in the azores. Guests on legendary store and mail of money raised for her “azores Food Tour” will enjoy su- order catalog. (Sep- Ellen Ecker Ogden cancer research. per-fresh seafood, sample local wines, tember, 2015: Grand Rose Ann Finkel cook in a volcano, visit pineapple and Central Publishing).Th e book is fi lled with Karen Binder and her husband banana farms, and tour Europe’s only original recipes, archival and color photos 36 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Charles, owners of the Pike Brewing Co., represents the highest standards of profession- were awarded the 2015 Pelligrini Award this alism with a mission to promote education, past October. The award is given annually mentor culinarians, award scholarships to to local culinary leaders who embody Pel- culinary students and grants to professional ligrini's values of supporting fresh local food working chefs. A quick urn and beverage and enjoying the good life at Carla Hall of ABC-TV’s “The Chew” and rom the table. www.pikebrewing.com Chef Jose Andres hosted the DC Capi- o Beverly Gruber, charter member of the Se- tol Food Fight fundraiser for DC Central attle Chapter, has retired after six years as its Kitchen on November 12. Amy Brandywein, executive director. Beverly is recognized by owner/executive chef of her chapter as a pivotal Centrolina Restaurant, player in the chapter’s battled in an Iron Chef- growth and solid expan- competition before 1000 sion. She served twice supporters who paid $250 as chapter president and per ticket—and won! DC remains an active Seattle Central Kitchen trains Dame. unemployed adults for culinary careers. Katherine Kehrli, out- Carla Hall going president of the Beverly Gruber Ris Lacoste and Nora Seattle Chapter, started Pouillon have been named her new position as Associate Dean at the by Washingtonian maga- Seattle Culinary Academy in October. zine as two of the most powerful women in Wash- Cynthia Nims announces that her newest ington, D.C. Ris, chef/ book, Oyster Recipes that Bring Home a Taste owner, RIS restaurant, is of the Sea, will soon be available. Cynthia is a judge for Launch Pad, well known for her expertise with Northwest a competition to identify seafood and shellfish. www.monappetit.com and launch promising new Ris Lacoste Jamie Peha launched a new column in Oc- culinary concepts at DC’s tober on all things relat- Union Market. Nora, chef/owner, Restaurant ing to wine. The column, Nora, and author of the memoir My Organic called, Put a Cork In It, Life, was named for being as a longtime driv- will run in The Stranger ing force behind the movement toward more and, on occasion, in organic, environmentally conscious cuisine. their specialty publica- Marjorie Meek-Bradley, Executive Chef at tion The Sauce. Ripple and Roofers Union restaurants, is a How do you get there? www.pehapromo.com BRAVO-TV "Top Chef" contestant on the Ask for Alaska. Angela Shen was a key- Jamie Peha season that began on December 2, 2015. She note speaker this past was a James Beard semi-finalist nomination If you’re passionate about October at the Global (as “Rising Star Chef of the Year”). Marjorie’s what you cook, satisfy your Food Tourism Confer- experience includes Bouchon, Per Se, Eleven ence in Chicago. www. Madison Park, DC’s Zaytinya, and Graffiato. wildest desire with the savorseattletours.com Vickie Reh was named Chef/Wine Director enticing taste of succulent, Deba Wegner collabo- of Via Umbria and Jodi Steiner has taken a and sustainable seafood full time chef position. The Italian market rated with Jamie Peha to harvested from the purest contribute to NW Travel, in Georgetown features food, a large wine section, a café, and an exhibition kitchen. Via Alaskan waters. a book-a-zine released Deba Wegner in October. Seattle Umbria also owns an agritourismo in Umbria. Dames, Thoa Nguyen (Chinoise Restau- Camilla Rothwell retired from Restaurant For this Vietnamese Fran Bigelow rants); (Fran’s Chocolates); Nora in early August after working with pio- Wild Alaska Black Cod and Maria Coassin (Gelatiamo) are profiled neering chef Nora Poullion as her director of as leading NW tastemakers. www.yourreci- special events for more than 18 years. recipe and more tempting peforsuccess.com seafood ideas go to CiCi Williamson, long- WASHINGTON, D.C. time syndicated newspaper wildalaskaseafood.com Bonnie Benwick won the Association of columnist, presented, Food Journalists' first prize in the 2015 Food “ZAP! The History and Journalism Competition, “Best Newspaper Hows of the 20th Cen- Food Feature, Above 200,000 circulation,” tury’s Most Influential for her article in The Washington Post's Food Cooking Appliance” to section, "Salt to Taste,' Taken With a Grain of the Culinary Historians Regret." of Washington, D.C. in CiCi Williamson Bethesda, Maryland, on Elena Clement was inducted into the honor September 13. Included were the history of society, the American Academy of Chefs of microwave ovens, how they cook, their pecu- the American Culinary Federation. The AAC liarities, and their effect on family meals.

WINTER Quarterly 2016 37 IN MEMORIAM

colored, paper crowns inside that 20 to as president of the board of Georgia Barbara Jean Petit (atlanta) 30 guests would wear for the duration Organics was a natural blending of all of the afternoon and evening. under her strengths: providing for others and Dame Barbara Jean Petit, 62, died Barbara's direction, the night would end surrounding all with beautiful, fresh October 23, 2015, after a long battle with everyone gathering in the living food. Her commitment to that ideal with ovarian cancer. She was the sun in room to drink wine and sing Christmas never wavered and continues to live a solar system that included hundreds of carols. Barbara's love for her friends, on in her name, with the Barbara Petit relatives and her relatives, and her life was something Pollinator award, given annually by friends who miraculous. Georgia Organics to the person who spent many She always shared the things she loved, most embodies that commitment to happy hours whether a trip to Ireland or France, a sustainable farming and the availability enjoying wonderful champagne or wine that she of good, local food. her skills and her husband, CJ Bolster, kept in Barbara was preceded in death by her as a chef, their wine cellar, or a spectacular cheese parents, Vincent and Dorothy Petit, hostess, and that she had discovered. She, CJ and and her brother, Mark Geoff rey Petit. entertainer. their adored daughter Caroline were Survivors include her husband, CJ She was a the ultimate hosts, never caring if their Bolster; daughter Caroline Frances longtime guests were people they had known for Petit Bolster; brothers Steve, David, member of years or people they had just met. and Marty Petit; sister, Virginia Petit; the atlanta Eventually her love of food and her mother-in-law arlene Green; sister-in- Chapter of lDEI. nurturing soul led to a desire to make law Charlene Bolster; and too many Barbara was known for her love of the sure all Georgians could get access friends and fans to count. holidays. Her Christmas dinner always to fresh, sustainable food. Her work Submitted by the Atlanta Chapter. included festive English poppers with

ful ways of understanding others. Phila devoted her entire career to Phila Rawings Hach (Nashville) promoting the simple country cooking that she learned from her By Merijoy Rucker (Nashville) mother. She never strayed from that philosophy. long before there were food networks, food celebrities, and cooking shows, there was a Southern lady named Phila Rawlings Hach. Phila pioneered a cooking show in Nashville, Tennessee, called “Kitchen Kollege,” which ran from 1950—1956. One of the Grande Dames of Southern cooking, she left us on December 2 at the age of 89. Phila was an amazing woman who began her career as a fl ight attendant for american airlines and created one of the fi rst cooking manuals for the aviation industry. She met her husband, adolf Hach Jr. in Paris. He had reached out to her via letter after seeing her on television. after a year of world travel, they returned to Clarksville, Tennessee, where Phila began her amazing career as a caterer and innkeeper. Not only did she promote the art of gracious Southern hospitality—she lived it! as late as 2009, Phila was catering more than 30,000 meals a year for the military planes that fl y from Fort Campbell. all were welcome at her table. She never tired of teaching and extending her Southern charm whether it was a Kurdish refugee who spoke no English or cooking for the united Nations. In 1976, then Gov- ernor Ray Blanton convinced 101 permanent members of the united Nations plus an additional 1600 others to visit Nashville. When deciding upon the perfect person to bring all of these people together and create a “homegrown” luncheon, Phila was the only choice. She welcomed numerous personalities to her celebrated Sunday Night Supper Table: Julia Child, Duncan Hines, Oprah Winfrey, and Henry Kissinger among others. She was always gracious and made you feel as if you were the most interesting person in the room. She truly believed diversity was one of the most power- ©2016 Roland Foods, LLC | www.rolandfoods.com

38 Les Dames d’Escoffier International STAYING CONNECTED THROUGH SOCIAL MEDIA

SUBMISSION GUIDELINES DEADLINES 2016 SPRING ISSUE - JANUARY 10, 2016 2016 SUMMER ISSUE - APRIL 10, 2016 2016 FALL ISSUE – AUGUST 5, 2016 BY TARA ANDERSON (DALLAS) AND BETH VLASICH PAV (AUSTIN) PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES Howdy from Texas! tara anderson and Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum Beth Vlasich Pav will be working together resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they to enhance our Social Media presence. This meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet year we’ll be focusing on two social plat- or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals forms; Facebook (FB) and Twitter along with in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo introducing Instagram later in the year. We credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH encourage you to post your Member Mile- CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED. stones, Chapter News, and personal work accomplishments. MEMBER MILESTONES How? LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 For FB always tag @LDEIdamesdescoffi er words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, to For Twitter @DamesdEscoffi er appear in print. Please include a website URL, if applicable. You may email In this way, we’ll be able to see your infor- a quality headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook mation and share it with our international covers are not accepted. Email your Member Milestone and photo to membership and LDEI friends. Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski at [email protected] by Since fall of 2014, we have increased our the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a FB and Twitter presence exponentially by the following issue. Photos of Dames networking at conferences or other chapter 100s. Our intent is to increase this growth events may also be sent to this section. Note: Due to space constraints, only through strategic planning that focuses on two Member Milestones will be published per Dame per year. promotion of our mission and brand. One way you can help us is by generating CHAPTER NEWS LDEI-centric hashtags. What is a hashtag and CHAPTER XXX (By, the submitter's name, office-or title, if any). Each why is it important? chapter may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may A hashtag is a type of label or metadata include photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements tag used on social network and microblog- above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy ging services, which makes it easier for users submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; to fi nd messages with a specifi c theme or contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret content. It’s a great way to track a subject or we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included to connect a group. in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed We ask that as you tweet, you create a few hashtags to share with us to use throughout due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at the year. Even if chapter specifi c, we would [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after like for you to link to international to show this date may appear in the following issue. Note: "Chapter News" and our united mission. "Member Milestones" may be dispersed through LDEI social-media While using mission-focused and unique channels, as well as in print and online. hashtags, e.g., #LDEI2015, a less specifi c hashtag can be in the message to link to E-NEWS other potential searches. For example: This bimonthly publication will keep you informed about events in other @DamesdEscoffi er a group of #women chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. #leaders in the #hospitality industry. Include an email contact, date, time, and cost for chapter events. Lack Social media is a huge endeavor. In order to of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking keep the content current and relevant to our classes, or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “E-News” email. followers, and represent our sponsors and Respond to E-News Editor, Shelley Pedersen, at [email protected] members, we suggest having more than one social administrator in your chapter. In this way we can keep information and content fast ﬂ owing. UPCOMING in the winter issue Together we can accomplish so much more to empower, engage, and celebrate each • Tasty Travels: Dames Who Lead Culinary Tours Abroad other and the future women in our organiza- • Legacy Award Winners' Reports tion and industry. • Meet the 2016 LDEI Board

WINTER QuaRTERly 2016 39 ANN ARBOR ATLANTA PRESORTED AUSTIN FIRST CLASS BIRMINGHAM U S POSTAGE BOSTON PAID BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA CHARLESTON LOUISVILLE KY CHICAGO P.O. Box 4961 PERMIT #1051 CLEVELAND/NORTHEAST OHIO louisville, Ky 40204 COLORADO DALLAS HAWAII HOUSTON KANSAS CITY/HEART OF AMERICA KENTUCKY LONDON, ENGLAND LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY MEXICO MIAMI MINNESOTA MONTEREY BAY AREA NASHVILLE NEW YORK NORTH CAROLINA NORTHEAST PALM SPRINGS PHILADELPHIA PHOENIX PORTLAND SACRAMENTO SAN ANTONIO SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO SEATTLE ST. LOUIS WASHINGTON, D.C.

Conference Date: October 27-30, 2016 Photo by Randell Williamson

worldwide variety of cuisines— GLOBAL APPETITE from afghanistan to uzbekistan. locally, come with us to relive LOCAL IMPACT the area’s culinary food history on By ann Stratte Roosevelt bridges leading to the pre-conference forays into neigh- (Washington, D.C.) elegant Fairmount conference boring Virginia and Maryland. Washington, D.C. is one of the america’s capital, with its hotel, located in Washington, a great place to stroll, beginning world's few planned cities. Its majestic monuments and D.C’s fashionable West End ad- with the National Mall—with design, created by Pierre l'Enfant memorials, spectacular national jacent to historic Georgetown. the museums of the Smithson- in 1791, is a major work of art in museums and galleries, neoclas- Once-in-a-lifetime opportuni- ian lining both sides, stretching itself. Th e monument-adorned sical government buildings, and ties await you as our local Dames from the Capitol to the lincoln squares and circles are titled for Embassy Row, is host to the show you an insider’s view of Memorial. famous people, and you’ll fi nd a 2016 lDEI Conference—and at this city’s extraordinary blend of Please join us and celebrate street named for your state here. a perfect time of year. Warm au- culinary cultures. Our theme, three ways: lDEI’s 30th among the buildings are 74 tumn sunlight ricochets off the “Global appetite, local Impact,” Birthday, the Washington, National Historic landmarks, city’s brilliant white marble edi- highlights the multiculturalism D.C. Chapter’s 35th Birthday, and building heights are limited fi ces framed by multicolored fall of our city’s food scene. Washing- and august Escoffi er’s 170th to 130 feet so the Capitol can be foliage in this spectacular sea- ton, D.C. has become a fabulous Birthday! seen from as far away as possible. son. Th e Potomac River sparkles food and dining destination. ¡Salud! Skaal! Vashi! A votre Fully 22 percent of the city is like pavé diamonds beneath the With more than 2,000 places santé! Okole maluna! L'chaim! parkland. Washington, D.C. is Francis Scott Key and Th eodore to eat and drink, you can fi nd a Slainte! Chia!—Cheers!