THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & 1

icaragua and El Salvador are still being discovered. Intrepid visitors are retracing the steps of conquista- Ndors and pirates, finding modern day treasure in the form of golden sunsets, silver beaches, and skilled handicrafts. Whatever you’re looking for, Nicaragua and El Salvador have it all— bustling cities and isolated villages, luxury hotels and rustic ecolodges, dense rainforest and wide-open beaches. You can swing from a hammock or zip over a forest, sail around islands, or surf down a volcano. Below are some of my favorite discoveries, just to get you started.

THE best TRAVEL EXPERIENCES W Diving in the Corn Islands (Nicaragua): Spotted tiger rays, blacktip sharks, stingrays, spider crabs, parrot fish, angel fish, barracuda, and triggerfish; they are all out there in the pristine waters, waiting for you to drop in and say hello. The Corn Islands have all the glorious tur- quoise waters and coral reefs you associate with the Caribbean, but without the crowds. Better still, you don’t need an oxygen tank on your back, as the luminous, shallow bays are perfect for snorkeling. See chapter 11. W Exploring Isla de Ometepe (Nicaragua): Catch the boat across to the serene twin peaks of the Concepción and volcanoes that rise out of Lago de Nicaragua, forming a muddy jungle island. Fireflies dance beneath banana trees as people on old buses, bikes, horses, and even oxen negotiate the rutted roads and countless trails. Rocks carved into zoomorphicCOPYRIGHTED figures and pre-Columbian petroglyphs MATERIAL dot the land- scape of tropical forest and patchwork fields. Volcán Concepción is still very much alive, hurling rocks and spewing lava four times in the last century. The island is an idyllic adventure spot, a rural retreat, and a hiker’s paradise. See chapter 9. W Sailing Down the Río San Juan (Nicaragua): Float down a broad, majestic expanse of fresh water that pours slowly out of Lake Nicaragua towards the Atlantic Ocean 210km (130 miles) away. It passes rain- forests and cattle ranches, stilted shacks on the water, quiet river

004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 1 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM lodges, treacherous rapids, and a 300-year-old Spanish fort called El Castillo. The 1 shoreline teems with wildlife, especially at the mammoth Indo-Maíz Biological Reserve on the Nicaraguan side. See chapter 10. W Touring Coffee Farms (Northern Nicaragua): See the “golden grain” processing facilities of historic plantations set amidst the verdant slopes of Matagalpa. Fincas such as Esperanza Verde and Selva Negra have some lovely trails to hike and wild- life to spy upon, as well as some excellent accommodations. See chapter 12. W Exploring the Winding Mountain Roads and Villages of the Ruta de las Flores (El Salvador): If you’re tight on time, this 35km (22-mile) route is an excellent sampling of what El Salvador has to offer. The route is known primarily for its small towns, each offering something different, from the furniture craftsmen of Nahuizalco, to Juayua’s weekend food and craft festival, to the artsy vibe and cool restaurants of Ataco. The route also offers amazing views of thousands of flowering coffee plants and one of the country’s highest and longest zip-line canopy tours. The Best Small Towns & Villages Small Towns Best The See chapter 19.

W Seeing Suchitoto (El Salvador): This is one of El Salvador’s most beautiful and unique towns and is well worth the easy, 1-hour drive north of San Salvador. After a turbulent history during El Salvador’s civil war, Suchitoto has reemerged as one of El Salvador’s leading international arts and cultural centers, with the country’s most luxurious boutique hotels and a famous international arts festival. But despite its international flair, Suchitoto is still very much a distinctly El Salvadoran town, close to the historic town of Cinquera, home to a weekend artisans market, and surrounded by amazing mountain views. See chapter 16. W Visiting Volcán Masaya (Masaya, Nicaragua): The Spanish called this volcano the “Gates of Hell,” and you can understand why when you see its boulder-spitting craters and glowing red lava fields. Volcán Masaya is easily one of the most acces- sible and scariest live volcanoes in the region—it’s also one of the most exciting to see up close. Also worth a climb or look are Volcán Maderas and Volcán Concep- ción. See chapter 7. W Turtle-Watching in San Juan del Sur (San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua): After a spot of sun worshiping on Nicaragua’s beaches, come out at night and see one of nature’s true wonders—massive turtle hatchings on the very beautiful Playa La THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST Flor. The best time to see turtles nesting is August and September. See chapter 9. THE best SMALL TOWNS & VILLAGES W Catarina, Nicaragua: The Pueblos Blancos are a string of hilltop villages south of Managua, each specializing in a particular art or craft. Catarina has a spectacular lookout point on the rim of Laguna de Apoyo Crater Lake, with Granada and Masaya at your feet and the twin peaks of Ometepe Island in the distance on Lago de Nicaragua. The town itself is famous for its carved, wooden furniture, bamboo products, basket making, and lush, tropical nurseries. See chapter 7. W Alegría, El Salvador: This lush garden town is surrounded by misty green hills 1,200m (3,937 ft.) above sea level. High up in coffee country, it offers some of the best views in the nation, as well as great hiking trails and a friendly, vibrant com- munity. See chapter 17.

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004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 2 99/19/11/19/11 9:579:57 PMPM W Perquín & Mozote, El Salvador: Exploring the history and tragedy of the towns of Perquín and Mozote should provide unique insight into the troubled history of this 1

complex nation. Perquín is a small town tucked into the high eastern mountains, THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR which formed the base of the people’s FMLN organization during the civil war. The nearby village of Mozote was the site of one of Latin America’s worst modern wartime atrocities; the square and church now feature the well-known Mozote memorial and the names of the townspeople who were killed. See chapter 17. W Ataco, El Salvador: Whimsical murals set the tone for a town that boasts an artis- tic style and vibe you won’t find elsewhere in the country. Ataco is an unmissable stop while exploring the hilltop villages of the Ruta de las Flores in western El Salvador. See chapter 19. W San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua: This small, colorful fishing village of clapboard houses is slowly morphing into a party town with excellent hotels and restaurants. It sits amid a string of great beaches offering surfing, fishing, sailing, or just glori- ous idling. See chapter 9. THE best BEACHES

W Playa Madera, Nicaragua: A lovely, dark beach with big waves and some good

snorkeling opportunities is 30 minutes north of the seaside town of San Juan del Sur. Popular with surfers and sunset watchers alike, this breezy stretch of sand has The Best Outdoor Adventures some excellent accommodations close by. See chapter 9. W Barra de Santiago, El Salvador: Santiago is a protected reserve and largely unde- veloped fishing village along the country’s far western coast. The best thing about the place is its isolation and natural beauty; it’s surrounded by wide, nearly deserted, sandy beaches and mangrove-filled estuaries where majestic white egrets glide low over the water. And the entire place sits immediately in front of a miles- long line of volcanoes that seem to rise from the palm tree–lined estuary shores. You can fish, swim, surf, paddle, spot sea turtles laying their eggs, or just do noth- ing and enjoy the view. See chapter 18. W Picnic Beach, Nicaragua: This is the perfect beach: a long white strand lapped by gentle turquoise waters on the unspoiled Caribbean Corn Islands. See chapter 11. W Playa El Espino, El Salvador: A wide, gorgeous beach that is splendidly isolated on weekdays and alive with beachgoers on weekends, Playa El Espino is gaining a reputation as one of El Salvador’s best places to throw down a towel and enjoy the sun, sea, and sand. See chapter 18. W Playa Maculis, El Salvador: This is one of El Salvador’s hidden gems: a very private 1.5km-long (1 mile) crescent-shaped beach that is dotted with a few houses and a lot of trees. At either end, two rocky points jut out into the sea. This protects the waters from the lateral current that can be so dangerous on the El Salvadoran coast. See chapter 18. THE best OUTDOOR ADVENTURES W Surfing down a Volcano (Nicaragua): Hurtling down the side of a black volcano at 64kmph (37 mph) on a wooden board brings a whole new perspective to surfing

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004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 3 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM in Nicaragua. The volcano is , just outside León, in the dusty lowlands 1 northwest of the capital. See chapter #. W Trekking in the Parque Nacional Los Volcanes (El Salvador): Climb the “Light- house of the Pacific,” a nearly perfect cone known as Volcán de . It is the park’s most visually dramatic volcano and challenging climb, requiring a nearly 3-hour scramble up a steep, rocky, and barren moonscape to the 1,952m (6,404-ft.) summit. Izaco is also one of ’s youngest volcanoes—it formed in 1770 and erupted almost continuously until 1966. See chapter 20. W Canopy Tours (Nicaragua): A spectacular 17-platform canopy system at Hacienda Cutirre on the eastern face of the Mombacho volcano was actually designed by the inventor of the sport, which means you’re in for a heart-stopping

The Best Historical Sites Historical Best The ride. See chapter 8. W Zip-Lining over a Coffee Farm (El Salvador): Zip on steel cables hundreds of feet

off the ground, over lush forests and coffee plantations near the town of Apaneca, on the Ruta de las Flores circuit in El Salvador. Thousands of white coffee flowers cover the fields below, and you can see all the way to Guatemala’s active Volcán . Conclude the adventure with a steaming cup of locally grown brew. See chapter 19. W Hiking & Swimming in Parque Nacional El Imposible (El Salvador): Parque El Imposible is one of El Salvador’s largest, most lush, and richest-in-wildlife national parks, and it’s dotted with streams, waterfalls, and natural swimming holes that are perfect for swimming. Tacuba, the small town just outside the park, serves as a great base camp for hiking trips. See chapter 19. W Bird-Watching in the Bahía de Jiquilisco (El Salvador): In between Isla de Mon- tecristo and the beaches to its east is the huge island Bahía de Jiquilisco. Its largely undeveloped inlet offers untouched natural beauty, with dozens of mangrove-lined channels to paddle, islands to explore, great views, and beautiful ocean and bay beaches. The bay is also a major stop for 87 types of migratory birds and a nesting ground for sea turtles. It remains one of El Salvador’s most untouched and natu- rally beautiful areas. See chapter 18. THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST W Kayaking Around Isla Juan Venado (Nicaragua): Pelicans and herons step over crocodiles, iguanas, and caimans as you paddle through a labyrinth of channels and waterways in this protected mangrove swamp on the Pacific coast close to León. See chapter 13. W Hiking through Miraflor Nature Reserve (Nicaragua): Miraflor is a slice of Eden in the northern highlands of Nicaragua. Orchids bloom amid begonias and moss- draped oak trees, while toucans and parakeets hide among the foliage. Hike La Chorrera trail as far as a 60m-high (197-ft.) waterfall, going past ancient caves and prehistoric mounds. See chapter 12. W Surfing the Balsamo Coast (El Salvador): Bodysurfers bob in the water waiting for their turn to ride the waves. The Balsamo Coast is a stretch of bays and inlets famous for its surf. Tourists and El Salvadorans alike flock here on weekends to enjoy the waves, black-sand beaches, laid-back vibe, tasty seafood restaurants, and new and unique hotels. See chapter 18. THE best HISTORICAL SITES W Coyotepe Fort (Masaya, Nicaragua): Whitewashed battlements and squat, yellow- domed towers overlook Masaya town and lake, and afford a pleasant visit that belies this structure’s dark history of revolution and resistance. See p. 94. 4

004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 4 99/19/11/19/11 9:579:57 PMPM W Archipiélago Zapatera (Lake Nicaragua): Famous for its pre-Columbian stone carvings, this archipelago off the coast of Granada boasts lots of wildlife, a crater 1

lake, and more than 20 archaeological sites that date back as far as 500 b.c. The THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR vast range of zoomorphic statues reveals that the islands were once important religious sites. Isla el Muerto, in particular, has some of the most spectacular rock drawings in the country, all laid out on a huge slab of stone measuring 100×25m (328×82 ft.) on the island’s summit. See p. 122. W Joya de Cerén (outside of San Salvador, El Salvador): Joya de Cerén isn’t El Sal- vador’s most visually stunning ruin, but it offers one of Central America’s most accurate glimpses into the lives of the region’s Maya ancestors in the form of the remains of a Maya village, frozen in time 1,400 years ago when the village was buried beneath the ash of a violent volcanic eruption. Still standing and pre- served are the local shaman’s house, a community sauna, and private sleeping rooms. See p. 252. W Huellas de Acahualinca (Managua, Nicaragua): Six thousand–year-old footprints of men, women, and children beg the question: Were they fleeing a volcanic erup- tion or just going for a swim? One thing is for sure, the footprints on display here are some of the oldest pieces of evidence of human activity in Central America. This intriguing site can be visited in a northern suburb of Managua. See p. 84.

W León

(Nicaragua): This cradle of the revolution has been bombed, besieged, and

washed away by hurricanes. Every street corner tells a story, and it’s highly recom- The Best Museums & Churches mended that you take a city tour of this fascinating university town with its vibrant murals, tiny plazas, and the biggest cathedral in Central America. Nearby is León Viejo, the original, abandoned colonial city at the feet of its destroyer—Volcán . See p. 201. W El Castillo (Río San Juan, Nicaragua): The dark-stained stone remains of the Span- ish fort are relics of just how important the San Juan River was. Built to deter marauding pirates bent on raiding prosperous Granada, El Castillo had 32 cannons and a well-stocked armory of 11,000 weapons. Cannon balls and old rum bottles add color to the story. See p. 162. W Tazumal (Santa Ana, El Salvador): El Salvador’s most visually interesting and fully excavated set of Maya ruins has a temple pyramid, ball court, and other structures considered to be classic examples of Maya architecture. Though it’s much smaller than better-known ruins in Guatemala or Honduras, Tazumal’s exemplary Maya architecture makes it worth the drive. See p. 328. THE best MUSEUMS & CHURCHES W León Cathedral (León, Nicaragua): The biggest church in Central America is a must-see when visiting the historical university city of León. The cathedral is home to some masterpieces of Spanish colonial art, and a statue of a black Christ still bears the hack wounds of a pirate’s sword. Here, you’ll find the Tomb of Rubén Darío, guarded by a weeping lion. At the cathedral’s center is a beautiful, Spanish- style courtyard known as the Patio de Príncipes. The cathedral’s domed roof holds the bell La Libertad that announced to the world the independence of Central America, and its Gothic roof is a terrace of lichen-stained cupolas and buttresses with a commanding view of the surrounding city and countryside. See p. 202. 5

004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 5 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM W Centro de Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdián (León, Nicaragua): This extensive gal- 1 lery has easily the best art collection in Nicaragua. Two beautifully restored town houses hold a dazzling selection of paintings and sculptures ranging from 16th- century Cuzco School portraits to modern Nicaraguan installations. You’ll also find some out-of-place surprises such as works by Rembrandt, Picasso, and Miro. See p. 205. W Granada Cathedral (Granada, Nicaragua): The luminous, ochre-colored facade of this simple church dominates the skyline of this beautiful colonial city, setting the tone for an enchanting stay in what is undoubtedly Nicaragua’s most beautiful town. See p. 107. W Military Museum (San Salvador, El Salvador): The museum is home to an astound- ing, giant relief map of the entire country that conveys just what a strange, vertical, volcanic land you’re visiting. Black-topped volcanoes tower over a blue, topo-

The Best Museums & Churches Best The graphical coastline, all right at your toes in an open-air setting. See p. 250.

W Museo de Arte (San Salvador, El Salvador): This museum of rotating and perma- nent exhibits offers visitors an insightful, visual glimpse into the character of the country. Exceptionally interesting is the art of the country’s civil war period. The museum also features the famous towering stone mosaic “Monument to the Revo- lution,” which depicts a naked man whose outstretched arms are thought to sym- bolize freedom and liberty. See p. 251. W Museo de la Revolución Salvadoreña (Perquín, El Salvador): Rocket launchers, large chunks of a downed army helicopter, and the preserved studio of revolution- ary Radio Venceremos are just some of the displays that bring to life the tumultu- ous events of the 1980s in the revolutionary stronghold of Perquín in the northeastern hills of El Salvador. See p. 279. W Museo Nacional (Managua, Nicaragua): Located in the deserted and dilapidated city center, the Museo Nacional is a hidden gem with high colonial features, a giant courtyard, and an inner gallery. Besides the usual pre-Colombian collections of flint and ceramic urns, there are some very enlightening display boards with a wealth of information about Nicaraguan food, drink, folklore, and music. See p. 83. W THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST Antiguo Convento San Francisco (Granada, Nicaragua): Though the Antiguo Convento San Francisco has a remarkable collection of pre-Columbian statues, it’s not the only attraction in this beautiful city. One great way to see all the sites, including the Antiguo Convento, is to take a horse-and-carriage ride through Granada’s charming cobbled streets. See p. 107. W El Teatro Nacional de Santa Ana (Santa Ana, El Salvador): This stately 1910 theater features a grand exterior balcony; an ornate, old-world lobby; and a three- story theater, complete with elaborate molding, sweeping staircases, and ceiling portraits of long-dead artists. It now hosts performances and exhibits year-round. See p. 326. W Museo Nacional de Antropología Dr. David J. Guzman (San Salvador, El Salvador): The ancient tools, weapons, pottery, and ceramic artifacts on exhibit here offer an intriguing glimpse into the lives of El Salvador’s indigenous communities and explain the evolution of agriculture and early trade in the country. See p. 248. W Iglesia El Rosario (San Salvador, El Salvador): El Rosario’s concrete, half-moon, bunker-like appearance is a bit bizarre and un-churchlike from the outside, but inside, visitors are greeted by colored light streaming in from abstract stained glass

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004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 6 99/19/11/19/11 9:579:57 PMPM running up the height of its two curved walls. Abstract metalworks form the altar and run the length of a third wall. This is one of the most visually interesting 1

churches in El Salvador. See p. 250. THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR W Tin Marín Museo de los Niños (San Salvador, El Salvador): At this children’s museum that’s fun for the whole family, kids can fantasize about being a pilot in the cockpit of a Boeing 727 or lose their bearings in a crooked house known as the Casa de Graveded (Gravity House). Little ones can also dress up like doctors in a pretend operating room, put on plays in the theater, or walk inside a huge volcano (complete with lava and smoke). See p. 251. THE best SMALL & MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS W Hotel Anáhuac (Juayua, Ruta de Flores, El Salvador; & 503/2469-2401; www. hotelanahuac.com): This charming little corner house has the casual vibe of a well- run hostel with an upscale, artistic feel. Beautiful pieces of art and murals adorn each room; the overall design feels like a cool boutique hotel. All this and friendly English-speaking owners, a colorful town in the garden setting of El Salvador’s

countryside, and great value rates, to boot. See p. 309.

W Hotel Los Piños (Zona Rosa, Managua; & 505/2270-0761; www.hotelospinos. The Best Small & Moderately Priced Hotels info): One of the more tasteful and elegant small hotels in Managua has lots of space, light, and beautiful interiors. Inside are large windows, tall ceilings, dark- wood floors, and lovely art, while outside there is a good-size garden with a gener- ous pool, all just a stone’s throw from all the action in the Zona Rosa. See p. 76. W Hotel Sábalos (Río San Juan, Nicaragua; & 505/8894-9377; www.hotelsabalos. com.ni): Hotel Sábalos has a beautiful location right over the water, with sweeping views of the river. The low wooden structure of varnished wood has a wraparound veranda, and you can literally fish from the balcony or just watch the locals passing in their impossibly flimsy canoes while fishermen throw nets into the water. See p. 164. W Casa Canada (Corn Islands, Nicaragua; & 505/2644-0925; www.casa-canada. com): This ocean-side paradise is easily the most beautiful and well-appointed hotel on the Caribbean Corn Islands. A row of cottage-style rooms faces a tiled pool and long rock shore of palm trees and small patches of lawn. Rooms are large, with every type of modern amenity, and line a beachfront garden. See p. 175. W Casa Iguana (Little Corn Island, Nicaragua; no phone; www.casaiguana.net): Palm trees line sandy paths, and colorful cabanas sit close to the shoreline at this charming ecoresort. The complex is run in a sustainable manner, with solar- and wind-powered energy, a recycling program, and fruit and vegetables from an on-site garden. Yoga and massage therapies are available, and some fantastic snorkeling reefs are within paddling distance. See p. 179. W Los Almendros de San Lorenzo (Suchitoto, El Salvador; & 503/2335-1200; www.hotelsalvador.com): This six-room Suchitoto hotel is a rare taste of luxury in a rural mountain village. French owner Pascal Lebailly applied his eye for fashion to create an interior design that’s magazine-ready, with a gorgeously lit stone pool, glass- enclosed French restaurant, and walls filled with some of El Salvador’s best art. You won’t find a more romantic or casually elegant hotel in the country. See p. 265.

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004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 7 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM 1 W Hotel Los Arcos (Estelí, Nicaragua & 505/2713-3830; www.familiasunidas.org/ arcos/presentacion.htm): A large mansion-style house just a half-block from the laid-back plaza is the setting for this modern hotel in the rural town of Estelí. The hotel is set amidst arched galleries that overlook a gorgeous garden courtyard with a fountain and palm trees. See p. 187. W La Posada Azul (San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua; & 505/2568-2524; www.laposada azul.com): This delightful boutique hotel will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a García Márquez novel—its old-school charm is that authentic. High ceilings grace neat wooden interiors and an Old World living room, and a veranda runs the length of the house to a lovely flower garden with a fountain and small pool. See p. 134. W Santa Leticia Mountain Resort (Apaneca, El Salvador; & 503/2433-0357; www.hotelsantaleticia.com): This luxurious hotel is set amidst a 93-hectare (230- acre) coffee plantation. Spacious, colorful rooms open out onto a charming gallery. Two solar-powered pools are center stage, while the cozy restaurant boasts all glass

The Best Luxury Hotels & Ecolodges Luxury Hotels Best The walls and a stone fireplace. You can do a coffee tour of the nearby farm and view the 2,000-year-old stone sculptures that dot the property. See p. 312. W Quinta El Carmen Bed & Breakfast (Ataco, El Salvador; & 503/2243-0304; www.elcarmenestate.com): This low, red-brick villa surrounded by lush gardens has an adjacent coffee farm and a charming restaurant. Large rattan armchairs sit on a tiled patio that leads to well-appointed rooms with white walls and dark wooden rafters. See p. 315. W Hotel La Joya del Golfo (Golfo de Fonseca, El Salvador; & 503/2648-0072; www.hotellajoyadelgolfo.com): A three-story hacienda-style house sits on the shoreline of a gorgeous bay with postcard-picture islands; fishing villages; and dark, volcanic beaches. The rooms are large and well appointed, and each has a private balcony with panoramic views of the lush surroundings. See p. 303. W Hotel y Restaurante Tekuaní Kal (Balsamo Coast, El Salvador; & 503/2389- 6388): Maya-inspired cement sculptures are scattered around this gardenlike property, which includes a small infinity pool and waterfall, and overlooks the beach. See p. 290.

THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST THE best LUXURY HOTELS & ECOLODGES W Casa Il Bongustaio Boutique Hotel (San Salvador, El Salvador; & 503/2528- 4200; www.casailb.com: San Salvador’s most stylish boutique hotel is a chic col- lection of dazzling white rooms and installation art located in a peaceful atmosphere a short stroll from the bustling Zona Rosa. See p. 237. W Crowne Plaza Hotel Managua (Managua; & 505/2228-3530; www.ichotels group.com): Managua’s most famous hotel is shaped like a giant white pyramid. You’ll find luxurious rooms with lots of light and color, and spacious bathrooms, as well as one of the best outdoor pools in the city. See p. 78. W Hotel Contempo (Managua, Nicaragua; & 505/2264-9160; www.contempohb. com): Managua’s first designer, boutique hotel is slick and contemporary, with a cool, relaxing vibe. Its 18 rooms are elegant, with minimalist interiors that make for a contrasting, welcome break from the shambles of Nicaragua’s capital. See p. 79.

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004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 8 99/19/11/19/11 9:579:57 PMPM W La Gran Francia (Granada, Nicaragua; & 505/2552-6000; www.lagranfrancia. com): A beautiful, well-located, colonial mansion has been exquisitely restored, 1

down to the original ironwork faucets that hang over hand-painted washbasins THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR displaying old-fashioned street scenes. A handsome inner gallery with Spanish tiles and a mosaic pool give this hotel an aristocratic, palatial vibe. See p. 114. W Palermo Hotel and Resort (San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua; & 505/8672-0859; www.palermohotelandresort.com): This five-star resort has manicured lawns, handsome villas, and spacious rooms decked out in hardwood furnishings and local art. The clubhouse is an elegant mix of marble floors, modern sofas, and classical- style tables contrasting with its palm-thatched roof outside. Big windows, all-glass doors, and tall ceilings allow for lots of light. See p. 134. W Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Eco Lodge (San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua; & 505/ 8670-7676; www.morgansrock.com): A cluster of 15 luxury bungalows is accessed by a 100m (328-ft.) suspension bridge over a tropical gorge. Architectur- ally stunning and with superb attention to detail, this ecolodge has no phones, Internet, or air-conditioning, but who needs them when you have an exquisite infinity pool and a beautiful, deserted beach? The large property also includes a private nature reserve, shrimp farm, and sugar-processing plant that produces its own rum. See p. 137. W Two Brothers Surf Resort (Rivas, Nicaragua; & 505/8877-7501; www.two

brotherssurf.com): The cottages here are set in an 11-hectare (27-acre) private The Best Luxury Hotels & Ecolodges estate. The interior design is sumptuous and eclectic, with artifacts from around the world, such as Indonesian carved doors and mosaics. Gorgeous Spanish-style floor tiles grace stylish rooms with red curtains and wall arches. See p. 144. W Río Indio Lodge (Río San Juan, Nicaragua; & 506/2296-0095; www.rioindio lodge.com): This lodge provides the ultimate jungle experience, along with all the creature comforts. A suspended walkway links the wooden cottages, and hand- some hardwood interiors grace polished ceramic tiles that lead to chunky wooden balconies outside. The hotel offers tour excursions and birding expeditions, and is regarded as one of the best jungle lodges in Central America. See p. 164. W Hotel Plaza Colón (Granada, Nicaragua; & 505/2552-8489; www.hotelplaza colon.com): This hotel hits just the right balance between exuding colonial authen- ticity and matching the modern traveler’s expectations. A wide, polished balcony overlooks the boisterous plaza, and exquisite tiled floors lead to a majestic inner balcony that runs around a glorious courtyard and blue mosaic pool. Everything is luxurious and elegant, and the service is prompt and reliable. See p. 114. W La Perla (León, Nicaragua; & 505/2311-3125; www.laperlaleon.com): La Perla sets a new standard for accommodations in Nicaragua, with impeccable rooms and a palatial interior boasting high ceilings, a spectacular central courtyard, and con- temporary Nicaraguan art. See p. 208. W Suites Las Palmas (San Salvador, El Salvador; & 503/2250-0800; www.hotel suiteslaspalmas.com.sv): This hip city hotel is within walking distance of San Sal- vador’s best restaurants and shops and offers big, modern suites with unusual designs. The pool, Jacuzzi, and sleek Asian-fusion restaurant are all set on the rooftop and feature amazing views, as does the exercise room, which includes a wall of glass overlooking the city. See p. 241. W La Cocotera (Barra de Santiago, El Salvador; & 503/2245-3691; www.lacocotera resort.com): This is one of the finest ecolodges in all of Central America. La Coco- tera offers a rare taste of international style in a remote and beautiful part of the

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004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 9 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM country. This six-room, semi–all-inclusive ecoresort features three modern cabins, 1 each with two huge, luxurious rooms and Asian-inspired bathrooms. The hotel property stretches from the bay to the beach, meaning you have water on both sides. La Cocotera features solar-powered hot water and brown-water recycling, and it even incubates turtle eggs. See p. 295. THE best DINING EXPERIENCES W Il Bongustaio (San Salvador, El Salvador; & 503 2528-4200; www.casailb.com): Part of the small, luxury hotel of the same name, this Italian restaurant is an allur- ing combination of top-notch pasta dishes and luxury surroundings. Arty interiors The Best Dining Experiences Best The

and lush lawns go well with the best tagliatelle in town. See p. 244.

W Citron (San Salvador, El Salvador; & 503/2208-4000; www.restaurantecitron. com): This exciting, gourmet restaurant offers seasonal, local ingredients with an adventurous, international twist. The result is dishes made from wild mushrooms and raspberries grown on volcano slopes combined with fresh seafood in eye- pleasing arrangements that go perfectly with the restaurant’s stylish art-studio ambience. See p. 243. W Don Candido (Managua, Nicaragua; & 505/2277-2485; www.restaurantedon candido.com): Carnivores in Nicaragua don’t have to go far to try some of Central America’s best beef. Twenty five different cuts are served in huge portions at this very agreeable, modern restaurant with wines from all over the world. See p. 80. W El Botón (Ataco, Ruta de los Flores, El Salvador; & 503/2450-5066): This whimsical little French restaurant serving quiche and crêpes perfectly comple- ments the colorful charm of Ataco, a small hamlet on the Ruta de Las Flores. See p. 315. W Entre Nubes (Ataco, Ruta de los Flores, El Salvador; & 503/2452-9643): This garden restaurant offers typical Salvadoran fare in a spectacular roadside setting,

THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST with coffee plants and flowers draping each nook and cranny, and a small wooded enclave to explore between courses. See p. 313. W Santa Lucía Culinary Institute (Managua; & 505/2276-2651): Nicaragua’s very own celebrity chef, Nelson Porta, runs this excellent restaurant that doubles as a culinary school. Smoked salmon carpaccio, tortilla soup, and lobster cooked in lemon and wine are all served in stylish and modern surroundings See p. 82. W Rotonda Bello Horizonte (Managua, Nicaragua): Do what the locals do and hang out at this busy roundabout, surrounded by late-night fast food restaurants, fritan- gas, and cheap eateries. Baritone mariachis and wandering troubadours serenade you while you munch on pizza, vigorón (yucca and cabbage), or quesillos (burritos with cheese). See p. 86. W Alo Nuestro (San Salvador, El Salvador; & 503/2223-5116): San Salvador is packed with excellent restaurants offering cuisines from around the world. But even in that crowded market, Alo Nuestro stands out for its simply delicious food. The frequently changing menu is a fusion of San Salvador’s many ethnic restau- rants, with an emphasis on local ingredients. The service is top-notch, and the ambience is formal but comfortable. See p. 244. W Mocha Nana Cafe (Estelí, Nicaragua; & 505/2713-3164): This simple but ele- gant cafe offers the best coffee from the northern highlands. Handsome wooden 10

004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 1010 99/19/11/19/11 9:579:57 PMPM seats and dark-stained tables with polished wood and light-filled decor lead to a little patio out back with simple garden. See p. 188. 1 W El Colibrí (San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua; & 505/8863-8612): Set within a funky THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR clapboard house with a large veranda overlooking a lovely garden, this enchanting restaurant is a piece of art put together from recycled materials. Mosaic-framed mirrors hang between stained-glass lamps and African face masks, while small colored stones hold down your place mats, lest the sea breeze carry them away. The international, mostly organic fare is a work of art, too. See p. 138. W La Casita (Estelí, Nicaragua; & 505/2713-4917): At this part–farmhouse restau- rant and part-coffeehouse, you can enjoy great local coffee, fresh bread, cheeses, and yogurt in a garden by a beautiful stream with relaxing music in the background. Also on sale are local crafts and herbal medicines. See p. 189. W La Perrera Restaurant (Jinotega, Nicaragua; & 505/8432-7423): The road between Matagalpa and Jinotega is one of the most beautiful rides in Nicaragua. Enjoy the view from this hacienda-style restaurant that sits on the side of the mountain road. The menu includes beef, chicken, and seafood, and between courses, you can wander through the outside patio and up into the garden nursery. See p. 199. W Restaurante La Perla (León, Nicaragua; & 505/2311-3125; www.laperlaleon.

com): This restaurant’s elegant white facade and tall, enchanting ceilings are

enough to give you an appetite for Nicaraguan and international cuisine. Paintings The Best Markets & Shops by some of the country’s greatest artists hang on the walls, and the large salon is framed by handsome mahogany doors. On the menu are Caesar salad, filet mignon, and fresh crab caught the same day from the nearby Poneloya beach. Fin- ish the evening with a coffee from beans grown by the owners on the side of a volcano or a cocktail in the adjoining Canal Bar. See p. 211. W Restaurante Barde La Rioja (Lago de Coatepeque, El Salvador; & 503/2441- 6037): Tasty cream of crab soup and lake fish stuffed with shrimp are just some of the choices at this handsome restaurant on a two-story pier sitting high off the water, with great views and afternoon breezes, overlooking the Hotel Torremolinos’ grounds and lake. See p. 332. W Señor Tenedor (San Salvador; & 503/2211-8326): Señor Tenedor is all modern lines and sensual colors. Booths sit beneath sweeping, translucent silk tied with deep red satin. Live violin music accompanies modern Italian cooking and a nice selection of international wines. W Los Patios (Ruta de las Flores, El Salvador; & 503/2401-8590): This upscale, modern hacienda-style eatery has a mountain-view patio overlooking thousands of coffee beans laid out to dry. See p. 308. THE best MARKETS & SHOPS W Mercado Nacional de Artesanías (San Salvador; & 503/2224-0747): Long rows of vendors sell unique hammocks, textiles, ceramics, and decorative crafts from artisans around El Salvador. The quality of the art and crafts is high, and the prices aren’t bad in what is the capital’s best handicrafts market. See p. 93. W Diconte Artisans’ Shop (Ataco, El Salvador): This five-room shop in the town of Ataco, along the Ruta de las Flores, offers unique whimsical paintings, wood- carvings, and crafts in the surrealistic style of Ataco’s two main artists, as well as a room full of colorful textiles made on-site by artisans working five old-style looms. 11

004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 1111 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM You can also watch the artisans work from the shade of a small garden-side coffee 1 and dessert cafe here. See p. 312. W Mercado Central (San Salvador, El Salvador): Mercado Central near San Salva- dor’s central plaza is the antimercado. It’s a sprawling, seemingly chaotic warren of shouting vendors, blaring horns, and old women in traditional clothes chopping vegetables in the street. Its biggest attraction is that it’s not an attraction. Instead, it’s the place to visit if you want to see a slice of unfiltered El Salvadoran life. See p. 254. W Mercado Viejo (Massaya, Nicaragua): The Gothic, palm-lined walls of Masaya’s block-size Old Market offer an endless array of tempting souvenirs, such as intri- cate pottery, handsome woodcarvings, sturdy leather ware, and beautiful hand- woven hammocks, all made in the surrounding city and hilltop villages known as The Best Markets & Shops Markets Best The

Pueblos Blancos. See p. 93.

W El Arbol de Dios (Av. Masferrer, Colonia Escalon, San Salvador, El Salvador; & 503/2263-9206): El Salvador’s most famous artist has moved to more expan- sive premises, where he can now display his distinctive naïve art and how he makes it. See p. 219. THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST

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