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1 the Best of Nicaragua & El Salvador THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & 1 EL SALVADOR icaragua and El Salvador are still being discovered. Intrepid visitors are retracing the steps of conquista- Ndors and pirates, finding modern day treasure in the form of golden sunsets, silver beaches, and skilled handicrafts. Whatever you’re looking for, Nicaragua and El Salvador have it all— bustling cities and isolated villages, luxury hotels and rustic ecolodges, dense rainforest and wide-open beaches. You can swing from a hammock or zip over a forest, sail around islands, or surf down a volcano. Below are some of my favorite discoveries, just to get you started. THE best TRAVEL EXPERIENCES W Diving in the Corn Islands (Nicaragua): Spotted tiger rays, blacktip sharks, stingrays, spider crabs, parrot fish, angel fish, barracuda, and triggerfish; they are all out there in the pristine waters, waiting for you to drop in and say hello. The Corn Islands have all the glorious tur- quoise waters and coral reefs you associate with the Caribbean, but without the crowds. Better still, you don’t need an oxygen tank on your back, as the luminous, shallow bays are perfect for snorkeling. See chapter 11. W Exploring Isla de Ometepe (Nicaragua): Catch the boat across to the serene twin peaks of the Concepción and Maderas volcanoes that rise out of Lago de Nicaragua, forming a muddy jungle island. Fireflies dance beneath banana trees as people on old buses, bikes, horses, and even oxen negotiate the rutted roads and countless trails. Rocks carved into zoomorphicCOPYRIGHTED figures and pre-Columbian petroglyphs MATERIAL dot the land- scape of tropical forest and patchwork fields. Volcán Concepción is still very much alive, hurling rocks and spewing lava four times in the last century. The island is an idyllic adventure spot, a rural retreat, and a hiker’s paradise. See chapter 9. W Sailing Down the Río San Juan (Nicaragua): Float down a broad, majestic expanse of fresh water that pours slowly out of Lake Nicaragua towards the Atlantic Ocean 210km (130 miles) away. It passes rain- forests and cattle ranches, stilted shacks on the water, quiet river 004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 1 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM lodges, treacherous rapids, and a 300-year-old Spanish fort called El Castillo. The 1 shoreline teems with wildlife, especially at the mammoth Indo-Maíz Biological Reserve on the Nicaraguan side. See chapter 10. W Touring Coffee Farms (Northern Nicaragua): See the “golden grain” processing facilities of historic plantations set amidst the verdant slopes of Matagalpa. Fincas such as Esperanza Verde and Selva Negra have some lovely trails to hike and wild- life to spy upon, as well as some excellent accommodations. See chapter 12. W Exploring the Winding Mountain Roads and Villages of the Ruta de las Flores (El Salvador): If you’re tight on time, this 35km (22-mile) route is an excellent sampling of what El Salvador has to offer. The route is known primarily for its small towns, each offering something different, from the furniture craftsmen of Nahuizalco, to Juayua’s weekend food and craft festival, to the artsy vibe and cool restaurants of Ataco. The route also offers amazing views of thousands of flowering coffee plants and one of the country’s highest and longest zip-line canopy tours. The Best Small Towns & Villages Small Towns Best The See chapter 19. W Seeing Suchitoto (El Salvador): This is one of El Salvador’s most beautiful and unique towns and is well worth the easy, 1-hour drive north of San Salvador. After a turbulent history during El Salvador’s civil war, Suchitoto has reemerged as one of El Salvador’s leading international arts and cultural centers, with the country’s most luxurious boutique hotels and a famous international arts festival. But despite its international flair, Suchitoto is still very much a distinctly El Salvadoran town, close to the historic town of Cinquera, home to a weekend artisans market, and surrounded by amazing mountain views. See chapter 16. W Visiting Volcán Masaya (Masaya, Nicaragua): The Spanish called this volcano the “Gates of Hell,” and you can understand why when you see its boulder-spitting craters and glowing red lava fields. Volcán Masaya is easily one of the most acces- sible and scariest live volcanoes in the region—it’s also one of the most exciting to see up close. Also worth a climb or look are Volcán Maderas and Volcán Concep- ción. See chapter 7. W Turtle-Watching in San Juan del Sur (San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua): After a spot of sun worshiping on Nicaragua’s beaches, come out at night and see one of nature’s true wonders—massive turtle hatchings on the very beautiful Playa La THE BEST OF NICARAGUA & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST Flor. The best time to see turtles nesting is August and September. See chapter 9. THE best SMALL TOWNS & VILLAGES W Catarina, Nicaragua: The Pueblos Blancos are a string of hilltop villages south of Managua, each specializing in a particular art or craft. Catarina has a spectacular lookout point on the rim of Laguna de Apoyo Crater Lake, with Granada and Masaya at your feet and the twin peaks of Ometepe Island in the distance on Lago de Nicaragua. The town itself is famous for its carved, wooden furniture, bamboo products, basket making, and lush, tropical nurseries. See chapter 7. W Alegría, El Salvador: This lush garden town is surrounded by misty green hills 1,200m (3,937 ft.) above sea level. High up in coffee country, it offers some of the best views in the nation, as well as great hiking trails and a friendly, vibrant com- munity. See chapter 17. 2 004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 2 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM W Perquín & Mozote, El Salvador: Exploring the history and tragedy of the towns of Perquín and Mozote should provide unique insight into the troubled history of this 1 complex nation. Perquín is a small town tucked into the high eastern mountains, & EL SALVADOR OF NICARAGUA THE BEST which formed the base of the people’s FMLN organization during the civil war. The nearby village of Mozote was the site of one of Latin America’s worst modern wartime atrocities; the square and church now feature the well-known Mozote memorial and the names of the townspeople who were killed. See chapter 17. W Ataco, El Salvador: Whimsical murals set the tone for a town that boasts an artis- tic style and vibe you won’t find elsewhere in the country. Ataco is an unmissable stop while exploring the hilltop villages of the Ruta de las Flores in western El Salvador. See chapter 19. W San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua: This small, colorful fishing village of clapboard houses is slowly morphing into a party town with excellent hotels and restaurants. It sits amid a string of great beaches offering surfing, fishing, sailing, or just glori- ous idling. See chapter 9. THE best BEACHES W Playa Madera, Nicaragua: A lovely, dark beach with big waves and some good snorkeling opportunities is 30 minutes north of the seaside town of San Juan del Sur. Popular with surfers and sunset watchers alike, this breezy stretch of sand has Adventures Outdoor Best The some excellent accommodations close by. See chapter 9. W Barra de Santiago, El Salvador: Santiago is a protected reserve and largely unde- veloped fishing village along the country’s far western coast. The best thing about the place is its isolation and natural beauty; it’s surrounded by wide, nearly deserted, sandy beaches and mangrove-filled estuaries where majestic white egrets glide low over the water. And the entire place sits immediately in front of a miles- long line of volcanoes that seem to rise from the palm tree–lined estuary shores. You can fish, swim, surf, paddle, spot sea turtles laying their eggs, or just do noth- ing and enjoy the view. See chapter 18. W Picnic Beach, Nicaragua: This is the perfect beach: a long white strand lapped by gentle turquoise waters on the unspoiled Caribbean Corn Islands. See chapter 11. W Playa El Espino, El Salvador: A wide, gorgeous beach that is splendidly isolated on weekdays and alive with beachgoers on weekends, Playa El Espino is gaining a reputation as one of El Salvador’s best places to throw down a towel and enjoy the sun, sea, and sand. See chapter 18. W Playa Maculis, El Salvador: This is one of El Salvador’s hidden gems: a very private 1.5km-long (1 mile) crescent-shaped beach that is dotted with a few houses and a lot of trees. At either end, two rocky points jut out into the sea. This protects the waters from the lateral current that can be so dangerous on the El Salvadoran coast. See chapter 18. THE best OUTDOOR ADVENTURES W Surfing down a Volcano (Nicaragua): Hurtling down the side of a black volcano at 64kmph (37 mph) on a wooden board brings a whole new perspective to surfing 3 004_9781118073339-ch01.indd4_9781118073339-ch01.indd 3 99/19/11/19/11 99:57:57 PMPM in Nicaragua. The volcano is Cerro Negro, just outside León, in the dusty lowlands 1 northwest of the capital. See chapter #. W Trekking in the Parque Nacional Los Volcanes (El Salvador): Climb the “Light- house of the Pacific,” a nearly perfect cone known as Volcán de Izalco. It is the park’s most visually dramatic volcano and challenging climb, requiring a nearly 3-hour scramble up a steep, rocky, and barren moonscape to the 1,952m (6,404-ft.) summit.
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