Austin Conference Issue

WINTER 2014 CULINARY CROSSROADS

Austin Conference Issue [ Deep in the Heart of Texas ] IN THIS ISSUE FEATURES WINTER•2 O14 4 Welcome to Texas Preserving for Posterity 5 Dames Across Texas My 95-year old Texas mother Carolyn Cheney was flattered when a Dame at the Austin Conference asked 6-7 Pre-Conference Tours her, “What chapter are you from?” I brought Mom as my guest, but if she could have 8 Keynote Address joined the Dallas Chapter when it was formed in 1984, she 9-11 Sessions would have been 66 at the time. The point is, whatever your age when you become a Dame, you 12-13 Partner Luncheon will always be a Dame (as long as your dues are paid!). 14 Sessions Sadly, some of our charter members have already passed away, and the rest of us aren’t getting any younger. If we 16-17 Chapter Photos don’t preserve our knowledge of the organization for posterity, we’ll lose a rich history of women’s culinary progress. 18 Fiesta That brings us to the Quarterly. One aim of your two editors, Susan Slack and me, is to capture LDEI history 20-22 Sessions as it happens. The Quarterly itself is an archive of the organization. Helping us capture that history in this conference issue are Dames from more than 20 different 23 Grande Dame Dinner chapters who reported on all the events and sessions. As you page through this issue, note the bylines to see who they are. Add to them many more Dames who sent in DEPARTMENTS photos, Chapter News, Member Milestones, and other current information. Next year at the Boston Conference, the New York 24-26 Chapter News Chapter will be 38 years old. Our newest chapter, Bir- mingham, will be one year old. Older chapters have much 28-29 Member Milestones experience and history to share with new chapters and those yet to be chartered. Let this be a call to all: Preserve 31 Submission Guidelines your history for posterity so the lessons of Dames who have gone before can benefit those to come. Thanks to all who contributed to this and every issue. Cover: Top of Star: Margaret Vera, Kitty Crider, Johanna Keep the history coming throughout the year! Brown. Top row: Meredith Beeman, Tracy Claros, Susan Auler, Denice Woods, Stephanie McClenny, , Carol Oh, and back to Mom. She enjoyed her return to Texas Huntsberger, Marla Camp. Middle row: Beth Pav, Gina and the LDEI Conference. She learned a lot and enjoyed Burchenal, Cathy Strange. Bottom row: Michele Haram, meeting all of you. One of her questions went unanswered, Sharon Watkins, Karen Farnsworth, Mary Margaret Pack, however. “How in the world do y’all eat so much food?” Carla Williams, Foo Swasdee. CiCi Williamson, Editor Winter Quarterly

The mission of the LDEI board is to foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters. It provides guidance, education, 2014 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS connectivity and effective communication among LDEI members.

President Second Vice President Secretary Chapter Board Liaisons Immediate Past President Beth Allen Braiden Rex-Johnson Maria Gomez Hayley Matson-Mathes Mary Ellen Griffin Founder/President Founder/Owner Manager, Global Accounts Culinary Consultant Owner Beth Allen Associates, Inc. Northwest Wining and Dining, LLC HelmsBriscoe 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 www.myMEGusta.com 347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9 98 Union Street, Suite 1009 11241 Avenida del Gatao Honolulu, HI 96826 320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58 New York, NY 10011 Seattle, WA 98101 San Diego, CA 92126 (808) 941-9088 Stamford, CT 06902 (212) 206-1138 (206) 233-9491 (858) 633-7515 [email protected] (203) 975 7610 [email protected] braiden@northwestwining [email protected] Deborah Orrill [email protected] anddining.com Culinary Consultant First Vice President Treasurer 64 Vanguard Way Executive Director Lori Willis Ann Stratte Dallas, TX 75243 Greg Jewell Third Vice President Director of Communications Owner (214) 343-0124 President Cathy Cochran-Lewis [email protected] Schnuck Markets, Inc. My Personal Chef AEC Management Resources Global Marketing, Programs Stacy Zeigler, CMP, CPCE 11420 Lackland Rd. 100 Severn Avenue, #506 P.O. Box 4961 Coordinator Director of Sales St. Louis, MO 63146 Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 Louisville, KY 40204 Whole Foods Market Bold American Events (314) 994-4602 (410) 903-2682 (502) 456-1851 x1 11504 Sundown Trail 877 W. Marietta Street NW [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Austin, TX 78739 Studio K-102 (512) 627-5599 Atlanta, GA 30318-5285 Cathy.Cochran-Lewis@wholefoods. (678) 302-3232 com [email protected]

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Exploring the Delicious Culinary Crossroads across Texas What a huge, Texas-size welcome we received while arriving in Austin for our 27th Annual Conference during the last week in October. Our Co-Chairs Gina Burchenal and Denice Woods, Austin Chapter President Cathy Strange, and their committees of hard-working Dames had promised the biggest, most exciting and successful conference ever, with lots of Southern hospitality—and that’s exactly what they delivered! You’ll find summaries and snap- shots of happenings from more than 20 Dames in this issue. The memories are nonstop!For many, the first day kicked off early, with tours around and nearby Austin: an in-service experience on national Food Day; visits to unique urban, locally owned farms; tastes of some popular Austin food-truck treasures; and legendary Salt Lick BBQ and Texas wines in the Hill Country. Learning was nonstop, too. At our Chapter Leadership Forum, we learned how to run our chapters like businesses and “speed- dated” topics of importance to chapter leaders. At the Don’t Drown in Digital workshop, we heard about “taking control and creating a customized digital routine that works for you.” We were reminded how to put the customer back into customer service… learned from the pros how to craft your own cookbook… experienced, step-by-step, turning a tamale into a “hero” at a professional food- photography shoot… and tasted the unlikely pairings of beer and cheese. Networking with Dames was an added benefit for all, especially during the fabulous events! We wined and dined at the Dames Across Texas extravaganza… we took a trip South of the Border for a fabuloso Fiesta, serenaded by a mariachi band (all ladies!)… and then proudly toasted our 2013 Grande Dame, Dolores Cake- bread, winemaking-and-culinary visionary extraordinaire, at the celebratory dinner our last evening in Austin. A perfect ending to our 27th Annual Conference! Our thanks go to our 19 partners who gener- ously support our organization all year, especially at conference. Remember them when you’re writing an article or blog, connected and strong. We are always actively supporting or organizing and expanding many programs, with the help of many of a local seminar you: our Green Tables and Global Culinary Initiatives; or fundraiser. our website and webinars; our M.F.K. Fisher, Legacy, Thanks also to and Grande Dame Awards; and our member discounts our Partnership through our Affinity and Dame-to-Dame programs. And Development this year, let’s all continue to focus on keeping our finan- Director, Brent Frei, who secures and works with our partners cial house in order by helping the Brock Circle grow. throughout the year. And, of course, our Executive Director, Greg I am honored to be your president and look forward to a Jewell, and his colleagues at AEC Management who expertly fabulous year! orchestrate our conferences, and keep the infrastructure of our organization working professionally and smoothly, day by day. Everyone on your LDEI Board of Directors is here, as close Beth Allen as your phone or your computer, to keep all of our 29 chapters President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International

Front: Ann Stratte, Stacy Zeigler, Beth Allen, Lori Willis, Mary Ellen Griffin. Back: Deborah Orrill, Maria Gomez-Lorenz, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Braiden Rex-Johnson. Not pictured: Cathy Cochran-Lewis.

WINTER Quarterly 2014 3 OPENING RECEPTION , By Anne Nisbet (Seattle) Anticipation was high as the elevator rose to the Hyatt Regen- Welcome to Texas, Y all! cy’s 17th floor. It was the opening-night reception for the LDEI annual conference and the excitement was contagious. In the lobby, a gorgeous cascade of fresh golden and black figs ¡Bienvenidos a Tejas! was the first thing to catch my eye. One of the evening’s gener- [ ] ous hosts, the California Fig Advisory Board, offered the tender, plump fruits for sampling and gave each Dame a handsomely From the time we passed through the Hyatt packaged gift of dried figs and a tote bag to take home. Regency Austin’s doors--decorated with a double Austin’s sparkling—and rapidly growing—sky- Dames logo--to the last toast at the Grande Dame line formed a dramatic backdrop for the Foot- hills Room, where Dames from all 28 chapters Award Dinner, it was a conference packed with gathered to kick off the festivities. A lively group Texas flavor. Here in these 32 pages, we have it was, comparing notes on appetizers offered by given it our all, y’all, to boot-horn all the three chefs and sipping cocktails from Hiro Sake and wine from Wente Vineyards. tours, meetings, sessions, and fiestas Kerrygold, one of the evening's other spon- into the magazine you’re hold- sors, challenged the chefs to use one of the company’s Irish dairy ing. And, by the way, in Texas products in a newly created recipe that was then judged by the Dames in attendance. This was a great ice-breaker, with Dames we never say goodbye. We say, comparing notes and discussing their favorites. “Y'all come back again, soon, I awarded my vote to the Smörbröd created by Libbey Goldberg of Austin’s Salt of the Earth Foods. She blended Kerrygold’s delicate, ya’hear?” clean-tasting Pure Irish Butter with lightly smoked black cod, spreading it on rustic rye for a clever and fresh-tasting combination. Another Austin chef, Heather Nanez, from Bohanan’s Restau- rant & Bar in San Antonio, created a visually stunning plate Clockwise from top left: Gwen Trost with beef tartare and tangy Cashel Blue Farmhouse Cheese. with California Fig Advisory Board representative Maria Kniestedt Janelle Reynolds, executive chef of @t large, a private-chef with gift bags of dried figs. LDEI services company, who also works with Mighty Bird, a rotisserie- Past Presidents Pat Mozersky, chicken restaurant, won first prize for her Kerrygold’s Dubliner Abigail Kirsch, CiCi Williamson, Beverly Soules, Renie Steves, Beer Cheese Crostini with Sweety Pepper Relish. For her win, Sandy Hu, Teresa Farney, Kather- Chef Reynolds will receive a six-month supply of Kerrygold ine Newsll Smith, and Suzanne butter plus 20 pounds of Kerrygold cheese per month for six Brown with LDEI Founder Carol Brock. LDEI Past President Mary months. All three chefs received a gift basket of Kerrygold prod- Ellen Griffin, Valerie Broussard, Trace ucts valued at $250. Executive Chef Lawrence Kosureck, and Conference Co-chairs Gina Burchenal and This vibrant gathering featuring fresh figs, Irish dairy products, Denice Woods. Holly Matson-Mathes with Ker- Hiro Sake, Roland Foods, and Wente Vineyard wines, along rygold contest winner Chef Janelle Reynolds. with a cavalcade of high-spirited Dames, set a convivial tone Carlos Arana, CEO of Hiro Sake, and Carla Williams (Austin), Auguste Escoffier School of from which to launch the evening and the entire Austin Culinary Culinary Arts. Crossroads Conference. 4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dames Across Texas By Kathy Shearer (San Antonio) From the bold Texas flavors of tamales, tacos, and ceviches, to Texas wines and cheeses, to delicious desserts, there was something to please every palate at Dames Across Texas held on Thursday night. The event was hosted by the Austin Chapter as a scholarship fundraiser and organized by Gina Burchenal and Denice Woods. It was held under the beautiful Texas stars in the courtyard of the AT&T Hotel and Confer- ence Center. Participants tasted items from 32 venues, mostly owned or operated by Dames from the Austin, Dallas, and San Antonio Chapters. Five Texas Hill Country wineries were represented -- Becker Vineyards (Bunny Becker), Fall Creek Vineyards (Susan Auler), Texas Hill Vineyards (Kathy Gilstrap), Alamosa Vineyards (Karen Johnson), and Stone House Vineyard (Angela Moench). Away.com, part of Orbitz Worldwide, named the Texas Hill Country one of 10 “hidden-gem” wine regions in the United States. Sipping wine, one could stroll from table to table in the cool evening air, enjoying Span- ish chorizo, pulled pork, chicken, cheeses and salumi, chips and salsa, chimichurri sauce, a tasty poblano sauce, spring rolls, and other delectable items. There was even a somewhat “historic“ drink served—a Peach Shrub—with a bit of Bourbon added to kick it up. One highlight everyone was talking about was the Chicken Poblano Tamales beautifully plated and served by Lisa Wong’s Rosario’s Café y Cantina. For dessert, there were Texas-themed, artfully hand-decorated Lily’s Cookies from Christine McCrae Kelly, and Tracy Claros’ Sticky Toffee Pudding with Custard Sauce. Yum! The French-pressed and/or espresso from Susan Jaime’s Ferra Coffee and specialty tea from Amy March’s The Steeping Room were the perfect compliments to the desserts. The San Antonio Chapter added some piz- zazz to their tables with fiesta-themed items by using serapes, piñatas, papeles picados (tissue paper with elaborate cut-out designs), and candles. The Austin Chapter placed luminarias around the courtyard to help set the mood. It was a fabulous evening for the attendees, and a successful fundraiser for the Austin Chapter!

Photos from top: Maple Pork Belly Tamales by Rosemary Kow- alski's The RK Group. Photo by Susan Slack. Breville Coffee. Lisa Wong. Sharon Van Meter and her culinary team. Susan Jaime’s Ferra Coffee. Lily’s Cookies from Christine McCrae Kelly. Tanya Holland, Nicole Quandt. Nichole Bendele of Becker Vineyards. Kevin O’Neal, Lori Willis, Greg Jewell. Photos by Susan Slack and Lori Willis.

WINTER Quarterly 2014 5 Pre-Conference Tours

TOUR 1: Green Tables Teams with Food Day for “Day of Service” By Kathy Gold (Philadelphia) Cecilia Nasti (Austin) did a superb job of coordinating the day’s activities. Kath- Dames from all over the country arrived erine Newell Smith, Susan Jaime, Molly by van, car, and even in taxis straight from Thompson, Martha Pruitt, Kathy Gold, the airport to prepare for the October 24th Michele Haines, Sharon Van Meter, Adri- Day of Service at the Sustainable Food enne Abramson, Stephanie McClenny, Center (SFC), in Austin. SFC’s mission Tina Wasserman, and Drew Faulkner were is to cultivate community by strengthen- Three Little Pigs chef all thrilled to take part in the day of service. with Pamela Morgan ing the local food system and to provide a After each group of volunteers had the and Pat Mozersky. space where children and adults can grow, Cow Tipping Truck. opportunity to participate in all the dem- share, and prepare healthy, local foods. Cow Tipping Desserts. onstrations, the Dames re-boarded the van, Sugar Addict Foods. The sessions started with the entire and went to the Auguste Escoffier School Anne Nisbet with volunteer force—18 volunteers from a new friend. of Culinary Arts, an LDEI Partner. SFC—gathered for a hands-on knife-skills Joining them for lunch were Nancy Marr, class. After a taste of the “everything-into- the school’s Special Events Manager; Mary TOUR 2: the-pot” soup, the participants broke into Chamberlin, a Trustee; LDEI Past Presi- groups for a morning of delicious demon- dents Beverly Barbour Soules and CiCi strations, led by Dames. Food Truck Treasures Williamson; and other guests. Chef Paul Dames demonstration leaders taught the By Kathleen Rule (St. Louis) Petersen and the Escoffier School’s “Farm- volunteers how to break down a chicken, to-Table” students prepared a sumptuous Austin Dames Kristi Willis and Denice pickle vegetables, roast vegetables and fruit, four-course luncheon of locally sourced Woods hosted this wonderful culinary adven- make chicken salad, cook with grains, ingredients under the expansive canopy ture cum city tour, sharing the history of local plant herbs, and grow mushrooms from in the Escoffier Garden. Courses included food trucks of all sorts, including mobile, spores in coffee grounds. As a bonus, we Arugula Salad with Smoked Grapes, Can- stationary, and those used also learned that, among other things, cof- died Pecans, and Texas Goat Cheese, and by local restaurant chefs to fee grounds can help banish cellulite! Roasted Game Hen with Mushroom-Apple test recipes. Bread Pudding. After lunch, Dames strolled In North Austin at the through the vegetable garden and basked in Sugar Addict Bakery, we the sunshine under the big Texas sky. ate melt-in-your-mouth beignets. At East Austin’s Three Little Pigs, Chef Raymond Tatum served crusty, muffin-sized Cracklin’ Meat Loaves wrapped in crispy bacon on cheese grits with savory black-eyed peas, roasted beets, and collard greens. West of the University of Texas campus, we sampled highly rated Asian-Fusion cuisine at East Side King at Hole in the Wall. Thai Chicken Kara-age and Fried Brussels Sprout Salad were both blended with spicy sauces, herbs, and jalapeños. It was a short walk to Cow Tipping Cream- ery, a family-run business offering artisan soft-serve custards, homemade sauces, and toppings. A specialty sundae was Taj Y’all— soft-serve custard, saffron syrup, toasted black-sesame seeds, and coconut dust. The popular custard shop is named for “cow tipping,” a purported prank of sneaking up on an unsuspecting upright cow and pushing it over. The practice is generally considered an urban legend because cows do not sleep standing up, and studies show it would proba- bly take about five people to push over a cow. Cornish hens. Beverly Soules, Nancy Marr, and Mary Chamberlin. Luncheon photo under the canopy. Students and chef who cooked the lunch. Photos by CiCi Williamson.

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International TOUR 3: Texas Wine with Texas Barbecue By Renie Steves (Dallas) Twenty Dames headed 15 miles west of Austin to the Hill Coun- try to experience pairing Texas wine with authentic Texas barbecue. Texans “grill” year-round—from appetizers to fruit—but barbecue is slow cooking over wood, letting the hot smoke do the cooking. The meat is the star, not the sauce. Barbecue is a tradition—families celebrate and tailgate around barbecue smokers. Tourists swarm to famous barbecue joints where the meat is piled high along with the requisite sides of coleslaw, potato salad, a pickle, and sauce on the side. The Texas Hill Country has the highest concentra- tion of the state’s 275 wineries, making it a top wine destination in the U.S. The region is also home to one of the most famous barbecue joints in the na- Photos by Maika Hill Higgins. tion: Salt Lick Restaurant, which opened in 1967. TOUR 4: While beer is often the beverage of choice with barbecue, wines also pair well with the smoked meats. To that end, current Salt Lick owner, Scott Roberts, planted Urban “Farm-to-Table” Excursion 35 acres of wine grapes in 2006. Tempranillo was introduced in 2008. A year later, Salt Lick Cellars and a tasting room opened where By Lesley Hill (Hawaii) visitors can taste Salt Lick and other Texas wines. It was a beautiful, sunny day in Austin when we toured three urban During the tour, Fall Creek Vineyards owner, Susan Auler, gra- farms. All within the Austin city limits, they appeared almost like ciously poured Fall Creek’s Chenin Blanc, which was smooth with a large, bountiful, home gardens—if you didn’t know they were operat- hint of sweetness, and Tempranillo, a perfect red for barbecue with ing as farms. its strawberry, spice, and tobacco flavors. Rain Lily, our first stop, comprises four acres of mixed heirloom At lunch, Dames sampled nachos topped with chunks of well-done vegetables and fruit trees including figs, olives, and persimmons. They brisket ends and grilled-shrimp appetizers with the Chenin Blanc and supply Farmhouse Delivery, a weekly delivery business that provides Salt Lick’s BBQ White. The main course was paired with Salt Lick’s milk, eggs, and produce to Austin homes. They also carry pasture- GSM (a Rhone-style blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre), its raised meats, and deliver to Houston as well. Our Sangiovese, and Fall Creek’s tour leader, Stephanie Scherzer, told us that the Tempranillo. A spot poll of farm hosts Shakespearean theater performances for a the Dames showed wines with month every fall in the shady grove at the entrance. some sweetness were prefer- Buying an old farm that had deteriorated into crack able to balance the spiciness houses, Dorsey Barger has restored the two-acre of the barbecue sauce. Hausbau Farm into a vibrant, totally sustainable, in- Then we tasted tegrated property. She and her partner raise just about six wines at the everything, including donkeys, ducks, and rabbits that they feed recycled nearby Duchman fruit-juice pulp. The vegetables reflect the gentle care they receive by Family Winery growing vigorously. They have created a beautiful outdoor cooking and housed in an im- dining area than can be used for demonstrations and classes. There is an pressive Tuscan- interesting aquaponics system that takes the fish manure from farmed inspired building. tilapia and, using bacteria-coated clay pellets, converts it into nutrients The white wines for growing lettuce and other crops hydroponically. (2011 Trebbiano, They humanely harvest their own animals and compost the remains Vermentino, and using a soldier-fly composter. However, a neighbor complained of the Viognier) had smell, so they are now in a bit of a battle with the city government and good aromas but may have to send the animals off the farm for butchering. Barger urged were served too us to voice our support by going to the urbanfarms.org website. cold, masking About five years ago, Springdale Farm was transformed from a the flavors of the landscape nursery by Paula and Glenn Foore. Today, the farm pro- wines. The reds duces a gorgeous array of produce and supplies Eden East, the small (2011 Sangiovese food-truck-like restaurant in front owned by Sonya Cote. Eden East and Tempra- served up a delicious lunch including Fresh Green Salad, Roasted nillo) were deep in body and Chicken, and Meyer-Lemon Bars with slices of persimmons and slightly tannic. Canto Felice, candied pears. The farm is a living classroom for nearby schools, and their semi-sweet wine, which a group of children was just finishing their tour as we arrived. The means “happy song” in Ital- children looked as if they had enjoyed the experience tremendously, ian, was a perfect ending. as did all of the Dame participants.

WINTER Quarterly 2014 7 KEYNOTE ADDRESS: Texas Roots to Takeaways from the 2013 National Stage Leadership Forum By Shara Bohach, and seek to mentor.” The giving back (Cleveland) is equally, if not more important. By Braiden Rex-Johnson (Seattle), With the help of mentors at every LDEI Second Vice President Rosalyn (Roz) Mallet offered inspir- step of her career path, Roz went ing words about actively managing The 60 Dames who participated in this year’s Thursday- from working summers in college your career and moving it forward afternoon Chapter Leadership Forum (CLF) agreed that it as a restaurant cashier to high-level through instinct, was one of the most useful sessions at the 2013 Conference. positions with restaurant brands innovation, The CLF is open to chapter presidents, presidents-elect, we all know, to becoming the first mentoring, and and any chapter members aspiring to leadership roles. The African-American woman to lead values-based gathering gives presidents and officers the National Restaurant Associa- leadership. Over- a chance to share their chapter issues tion (only the third woman to chair coming odds as and find support and answers. This year, the board during that organization’s a woman and a attorney Jacqueline (Jackie) Hanson 96-year-long history). person of color, Roz stated that you kicked off the session with a one-hour Always a well-prepared risk taker, never know what you cannot do PowerPoint presentation entitled, “Run- Roz left a highly successful corporate until you try. She spoke with passion ning Your Chapter Like a Business, Part career to start an entrepreneurial about opportunities in the restaurant Two.” Key points in her speech, which business. And, at the start of a industry, asserting that if you work focused on successfully managing, optimizing, and sustain- recession, no less! She succeeded in hard, develop and believe in your in- ing nonprofit status, included the following: building PhaseNext Hospitality, a stincts, and proceed with confidence, • Mission is the touchstone. multi-brand, franchise-operating you can do anything. • Educate your Board of Directors, officers, and staff. company, with outlets in non- In her 10 tips for outstanding lead- • The two fiduciary obligations for Directors are a duty traditional foodservice locations, ership, she included “seek mentors of care and a duty of loyalty. such as airports and military bases. • Directors are charged with safeguarding the organiza- She consistently seeks out unique tion’s assets. opportunities, and creates businesses • Know and abide by the laws applicable to charitable from them. organizations. Roz encouraged Dames to “learn In underscoring the importance and vital work of volun- the bad lessons very, very well, be- teer, nonprofit organizations such as LDEI, Hanson said, cause those are the most important, “Noah’s ark was built by volunteers; the Titanic was built and allow someone to ask you what by professionals.” could you have done better.” These Takeaways from the CLF’s first-ever “speed-dating” are the insights that will guide you session, moderated by LDEI Board members, included: toward your next success. • Establish a mentorship program for your Chapter’s scholars to observe and measure the progression in their careers. • The St. Louis Chapter held a successful fundraiser with the theme, “Best Dame Tacos in Missouri.” Tailor this idea to the food you are selling and your state or region. • Immediately after an event, follow up with your current partners and sponsors. Inform them that, “We will be looking to you for support again next year.” • Appoint a “Member Liaison” to deal with difficult members and/or members who aren’t engaged. • Organize a “Dîner en Blanc” (Dinner in White), a worldwide trend in fundraising that originated in Paris. • Hold raffles at your monthly meetings, with funds raised used to send Dames to Conference based on a point system (à la Atlanta). • Hold a Dessert Dash (full descriptions in the Mem- ber Center, “Document Groups/Chapter Fundraising Ideas” section of ldei.org). • Encourage new members to sign up for a Committee, which builds friendships, gets them involved, and helps Carol Brock, Roz Mallett, Beth Allen. Photo by CiCi. identify potential leaders.

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Session 1: Inspired by Grande Dame Alice Waters’ book, Chez Panisse, Chef Sonya Feeding Your Cote’s mission is to educate people on how to eat local and how to engage with their food. She wants to open as many Community non-partisan issue. restaurants as possible on farms and has a By Cindy Jurgensen Mayor Marc Holm strove to figure out what good start—her Eden East restaurant is located (Minneapolis) assets his town, Elgin, had. The town’s rich on the grounds of urban Springdale Farm. agriculture tradition, with Austin right next Farmer Paula Foore’s urban five-acre Spring- Six wonderful panelists espoused their very door, formed a built-in market! People said dale Farm is three miles from the Texas state different, yet related, experiences in food and agriculture couldn’t be a driver of economic capital, a city block surrounded by homes, and agriculture. Author/Activist/Farmer Wendell development, but he persevered. When a col- a school. Since it’s a challenge to be financially Berry’s quote “Eating lege moved to town he got them to include successful, “it’s important to diversify,” she is an Agriculture Act,” sustainable agriculture as one of the major said. Hence, Sonya’s restaurant on the front the quote that inspired courses of study. end. Paula and Sonya work jointly with culi- Michael Pollan, was Former Chef Elizabeth Winslow, co-founder nary students, interns, and school groups; sell central to the session. of Farmhouse Delivery, wants to make good at twice-weekly farm stands and to restaurants; Food and agriculture food accessible to all. Now, as communications and host weddings in the farm’s pecan orchard. affect everything and the manager for the Sustainable Food Center, she “Use every chance to educate the good, bad, idea that individual eaters said that the Sustainable Food Center holds and ugly of farming.” have a responsibility to grow good, healthy, four weekly farmers’ markets in Austin, helps This session brings full circle my first experi- nutritional food to feed current and future people connect to affordable food, hosts Com- ence with LDEI. Long before I was a member, generations was also a key theme. Each panel- munity Gardens, and teaches gardeners how I flew to Phoenix with Mary Evans (Min- ist emphasized that growing healthy food takes to use what they grow. “Food can bring people nesota) to visit Hallie Harron, chef/owner of time, bridge-building, is costly, and is all about together across the political spectrum.” the restaurant Quiessence at the Farm at South relationship building. Carla Williams is the Farm-to-Table Mountain. We helped prep for her local news State Representative Eddie Rodriquez said Curriculum Coordinator for Escoffier Schools program, and we cooked a sumptuous, locally that growing healthy food starts with good in Austin and Boulder, where three-week farm foraged meal for an LDEI Board dinner meet- policy. He feels his job is to identify the externships are built into the curriculum. Stu- ing. Hallie was feeding the community long hurdles farmers have, then help them. He dents get a different perspective (they’re loath before it was the trend. “Quiessence was surely discovered government is often in the way, to waste) on where their ingredients come one of the first to ‘go local.’ It was easy! We particularly for urban farmers. He started a from, how hard farmers work, and how much grew the carrots—I served ‘em!” “farm-to-table” caucus and found food to be a better local tastes.

Session 2: Beer & Cheese: Find Your Inner Pairings

By Gwen Ashley Walters (Phoenix) Paula Lambert’s (Dallas) Mozza- rella Company Queso Blanco with After the beer-and-cheese session, I overheard a Dame Chiles and Epazote was paired exclaim, “Forget wine, I’m all about beer-and-cheese with Jester King Brewery’s Le Petit parties now!” Prince Farmhouse Table Beer, an It’s safe to say the rest of the near-packed room for this example of a complementary flavor eat-and-drink session felt similarly, based on the final pairing (mild cheese with mellow, applause and the line of Dames waiting to purchase low-alcohol, slightly effervescent beer.) a copy of Janet Fletcher’s (San Francisco) new book, Cheesemaker Judy Schad (Chicago), co-owner of Cheese & Beer (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2013). Capriole Farms, brought a tangy, Bourbon chestnut-leaf Cathy Strange (Austin), Global Cheese Buyer at Whole chèvre, which was paired with Jester King’s cedar-aged El Foods Market and New World President of Guilde des Cedro for another complementary pairing. Finally, multi- Fromagers, introduced the all-star panel, including two award-winning Rogue River Blue from Oregon, whose cheesemakers, two cheese experts, and a female brewer. cheese makers David Gremmels and Cary Bryant were in Cathy led us through a series of four cheeses paired with attendance and christened “Dames for a Day,” was paired four beers, and then encouraged us to explore further with Oatmeal Stout, a deeply roasted malt beer with pairings among the options in front of us. chocolate and coffee notes from Independence Brewing Peggy Smith, founder of Cowgirl Creamery, provided Co. This provided another contrasting pairing. an organic triple-cream Mount Tam cheese, and Austin One attendee posed the sticky question, “Is cheese bet- Independence Brewing brewer/owner Amy Cartwright ter with beer or wine?” Dame Fletcher answered, “I’ve selected her Stash IPA to pair with it, to highlight a Amy Cartwright, Peggy Smith, Judy never met a cheese I couldn’t pair with beer, but I can’t Schad, Janet Fletcher, Cathy Strange. contrasting flavor pairing (buttery, creamy cheese with say the same with wine.” Photo by CiCi. Janet Fletcher. Photo by citrusy, bitter beer). Susan Slack.

WINTER Quarterly 2014 9 Sessions

Session 3: Don’t Drown in Digital. Build a Toolkit Instead By Kathy Moore (Kansas City) text and photos across all devices), Office 365, day. You can post the same topic on Facebook Dropbox, and Google Drive (Google Docs). and Twitter, but personalize it. Instagram is Are you drowning in technology and social Natanya Anderson, Social Media Director more important than Twitter, so if you must media? Follow these tips! of Whole Foods and President of Austin Food choose, pick Instagram over Twitter. Pinterest Kristi Willis, of Kristi’s Bloggers Alliance, recommended we stand out, allows you to show your expertise, but don’t Farm To Table, recom- engage, and create community on social me- just pin your own content. Use LinkedIn if mended cloud technology dia. To determine the best outlet, identify your your business targets other businesses. so you always have access to audience and goals and evaluate your time and The women cautioned against giving total everything you need. Don’t comfort level. Facebook is great for establish- control of social media to interns as you must buy every tool and app. To ing your brand and sharing your expertise. For be the voice of your brand. Also, during times find your best tool, outline your work and best results, spend 30 minutes daily and post of national disaster, Whole Foods goes dark, identify the most painful spot, then find a tool once or twice each day. and it may be wise to follow this lead in your to ease that task. She recommended Evernote To optimize Twitter, spend about an hour own business. (which allows users to create then synchronize daily and respond to tweets within one-half

Session 4: By Grande Dame Abigail ful, and it was a learning experience that sent our Kirsch (New York) taste buds into orbit. Our expert corporate mixologist, Chef Caterina Our anticipations were high as we Miltenburger, of Glazer’s Wholesale Distributors, Mixology entered the fascinating seminar on introduced us to “shrubs.” No, not green hedges, mixology. It was fun, it was color- but artisinal drinking vinegars. We learned that over 1,000 years ago, people used the same recipe we use today, as a fermenting process in their ancient way of preserving fruit. Today, we know that craft bars use shrubs with alcohol in uniquely shaped glasses and carved ice cubes. You can find shrubs today in flavors including strawberry, mixed berry, raspberry, pineapple, and even passion fruit. With our newfound knowledge of shrubs, it was our turn to create contemporary drinks. We were instructed to fill the punch bowls in front of us with an aromatic mixture. To share with you an ap- proximate idea of a recipe, we made a quick shrub purée by mixing 2 ounces of Very Berry Shrub with 6 ounces of powdered sugar and one- Mixologist Caterina Miltenburger. XX, Deborah Woehler, Stacey quarter ounce lemon or lime Adams, Janet Burgess. Photos by Susan Slack. juice in a small glass jar. Cover tightly and shake vigorously until the sugar has completely mixed with the juice. You may have to add more juice to achieve the right con- sistency. Add fresh fruit, such as sliced pineapple, apple, orange, or berries. Then add seltzer and fruit juice. No, we did not forget the Vodka, which was added by Dames, who religiously believe in generous pours. I must admit that the shrub punch we created was so tantalizing, it accompanied me into the Partner Luncheon for additional enjoyment! Good news is that you can purchase Shrub Drinks Artisanal Drinking Vinegars by accessing www.shrubdrinks.com, created by Cathy Tarasovic and Cynthia Guido (San Antonio). Cheers!!

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Session 5: Session 6: Chili, Kolache, Cornbread, and Collards: Effective PR & A Look at Central Texas Foodways Marketing on a Budget

By CiCi Williamson between cultural heritage, food, and a healthy environment. She spoke about “Central Texas Foodways” carried how African Americans passed down out the conference theme to a T (as in recipes orally. They tended small garden tamale). Culinary his- plots and cooked “parts massa didn't torians M.M. Pack, want. But Blacks left us much more Toni Tipton-Martin, than collards and swine.” Her book, The and Dawn Orsak Jemina Code, to be published in 2014, delivered a complex expounds on this. dish of food knowl- Tex-Czech and Czech-Mex foods were edge. Pack said 200 explained by Dawn Orsak, Lone Star Texas Indian groups Foodways. “Texas has the largest number traded foods such as mesquite beans, of Czech immigrants in the U.S.,” she By Patty Erd (Chicago) prickly pears, mustang grapes, dewber- said. The Czechs contributed noodles, ries, game, chilies, and pecans. Native to This seminar was a panel moderated by Cathy cucumber salad, potato dishes, sauer- Texas, the pecan (from an Indian word Cochran-Lewis (Austin), Global kraut, strudel, and kolache (pronounced meaning “requiring a stone to crack”) Marketing, Whole Foods Market, CO-lahsh—silent “e”). An example of was growing 8,000 years before seedlings and consisted of local PR experts Czech-Mex food is sausage with jalape- were introduced by Indians and traders Elaine Garza of Giant Noise PR, nos. Orsak quipped, “Everything has an to East Coast states such as Georgia. James Moody of Guerilla Suit end, but sausage has two.” She translated A progression of immigrants settled Marketing and Kathryn Hutchi- a Czech phrase that means “When there in Texas: 26 major nationalities from son of Greenling. is good cooking, there is happiness.” Belgians to Wends (Slavs). But Germans Ideas and suggestions flew Orsak indeed facilitated attendees’ made up the largest group of Europeans throughout this session. So many ideas were shared. happiness by serving several kinds of de- to immigrate to Texas and, even now, Here are a few. licious, authentic kolaches she had made. make up 17% of the population. Pack • Do not assume a PR agency is going to fix every- Lori Willis (St. Louis), Director of said they brought pickling, sausage, thing, or turn everything around for you. Communications, Schnuck Markets, barbecue, and schnitzel, which morphed • Educate yourself so that you understand the Inc., attended this session and wrote, into “chicken fried steak.” Wine grapes landscape. “After 12 years as a grocer, I am always were planted in Texas 100 years before • You need to roll up your sleeves and block out moved by how important traditional they were planted in California. Chili the time to do the work yourself. ingredients and foods are to those who came in with cowboy cooking, and • You NEVER want to farm off social media to an have traded their homelands for new “chili queens” sold the dish first in San intern. territory. The ladies in this seminar em- Antonio. • Good social media interaction requires you make phasized this point many times. It’s not Toni Tipton-Martin is Founder/Di- a daily commitment. just the recipes that are handed down rector of the nonprofit SANDE Youth • Media would rather hear from you the person, through generations; it’s the memories of Project that promotes the connection rather than a press release. home, families and traditions.” • Start your social media campaign months before starting your business. • Make sure you create a voice consistent with your business. Reporters need a two-month lead time. • Do not attempt SEO (Search Engine Optimi- zation) on your front page; this needs to run through the back end of your website. • Make some crossover from the digital world to the physical world, press some flesh. • Consider removing print advertising from your budget, it is expensive and readership has decreased. Facebook analytics are free and do not require an agency. • You do not have to sign up for a whole year as PR firms would like. So many ideas were shared; Toni Tipton- Martin, Dawn it would be worth your while to listen to the Orsak, and Mary Podcast posted at www.ldei.org. Margaret Pack. Photos by CiCi Williamson

WINTER Quarterly 2014 11 By Brent T. Frei, LDEI Director Round 'em Up of Partnership Development [ ] Although not the Chisholm Trail, which passed through Austin beginning in the 1860s, all paths in the Hyatt Regency Austin led to the “feed lot.” Delectable Partners! aromas enticed Dames to a grazing lunch where 15 of LDEI’s 19 official 2013 partners showcased tastings, products, special offers, and other information at this year’s Partners Showcase Luncheon in Austin on October 25, making this much- loved annual event one of the largest in LDEI’s history.

Photos by Susan Slack

Silver partner Kikkoman Sales USA, represented by chef and manager of culinary development Helen Roberts, offered beef crostini featuring thinly sliced roast beef, sliced onion, fresh parsley and grated Parm atop sliced Italian bread that had been brushed with a blend of olive oil and soy sauce before toasting. The delicious bite got its meaningful umami flavor kick (without all the salt) thanks to Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce. www.kikkomanusa.com Chef Neil Doherty returned to the LDEI Conference for a second year representing Bronze partner Sysco Corporation, and like last year, brought with him Shelley Carr, senior director of culinary develop- Kerrygold, which upgraded to Bronze ment. Gwendoline Peters of Sysco-European Imports from its Friend-level partnership in 2012, also helped serve from the lavish display, which in- showcased several of its top-selling signature cluded seared Certified Angus Beef tenderloin, carved cheeses (all made exclusively from the milk to order and plated with a tossed-to-order salad of of grass-fed cows) via a cheese board that Brussels sprouts, kale, and red quinoa brightly dressed included Cashel Blue, Dubliner, Skellig, with a splash of citrus, and an array of imported cheeses Dubliner with Irish Stout and Cheddar produced by women cheesemakers along with classic with Irish Whiskey, along with nuts, dried charcuterie: pâtés, terrines and sliced cured meats, all ac- fruits, chutneys and breads. Additionally, companied by a variety of condiments. www.sysco.com an onion/fig tart featuring Cashel Blue was the talk of the event. Icing on the cake, so to speak, was a block of Kerrygold Salted Butter on each tabletop, served European Bronze partner Wente style. This year, besides representation from Vineyards, represented Sandy Hu, on hand were Roisin Hennerty, president of Kerrygold and the by Amy Hoopes and two Irish Dairy Board, and Molly O’Loughlin, Kerrygold’s marketing director. of the winery’s manag- www.kerrygoldusa.com ers, (Nicole Quandt shown here), poured tastings of entwine by A glorious variety of fresh and Food Network—a 2010 dried figs starred at returning California Merlot and a Bronze partner California Fig 2011 California Pinot Advisory Board’s station, at Grigio. Morning Fog which Karla Stockli and her Chardonnay 2012, Liver- agency representative, Maria more Valley; Riva Ranch Kniestedt, served pork ten- Chardonnay 2012, derloin with fig-cocoa sauce, a Arroyo Seco, Monterey; signature recipe from Hous- Southern Hills Caber- ton-based celeb chef Robert net Sauvignon, 2011, Del Grande. Additionally, the Livermore Valley; and board displayed a cascade of California figs and fig products with fine cheeses Murrieta’s Well The Whip 2012, Livermore Valley, were from fellow LDEI partner Kerrygold. www.californiafigs.com also enjoyed by Dames.www.wentevineyards.com

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Returning Copper partner Alaska Dedicated students enrolled in the Seafood Marketing Institute, culinary-arts program at the Au- represented by Claudia Hogue, guste Escoffier School of Culinary foodservice director, and Karl Uri, Arts in Austin represented new marketing specialist, offered fresh- Friend partner Escoffier Online from-the-sea Alaska snow-crab International Culinary Academy claws with a trio of dipping sauces by serving tastings of goose confit featuring Kikkoman products: with roasted-pumpkin/pecan purée; soy-ginger sauce, hoisin ranch a tart with mushrooms and JBG dressing and Thai chili mayon- first-of-the-season parsnips; and naise. www.wildalaskaflavor.com Auguste Escoffier’s signature classic dessert, Peach Melba. Students’ involvement and efforts were organized by Nancy Marr, special-events manager at the school, who also repre- Breville USA, a returning Copper sented the partner and its parent company, Triumph Higher Education partner represented by national Group, at the station. www.escoffieronline.com sales manager Amy Billetz and beverage-category manager Stefanie Tiong, served affoga- Inspired by the upcoming Thanksgiving tos—shots of espresso over Amy’s holiday, Debbie Wheeler of returning Mexican-Vanilla Ice Cream—with Friend partner Mahatma Rice wowed assistance from Maria Gomez’ guests with her cranberry/brown-rice husband, Dean, and Dame Susan dressing featuring Mahatma Whole Jaime of locally based Ferra Cof- Grain Brown Rice. Mahatma is the fee. www.brevilleusa.com No. 1 rice brand in the United States, and through this dish, it was easy to see why. www.mahatmarice.com The James Beard Foundation, a first-time LDEI partner at the Cop- per level, offered information on Returning Friend partner Peter’s exciting new programs of interest to Chocolate, represented by Julie Mar- Dames, particularly in the areas of tin and Angela Weidner for Courtney women’s issues and environmental LeDrew, offered fine confections to Shelley Menaged sustainability. satisfy Dames’ après-meal was on hand to answer Dames’ desire for a scrumptious questions about the Foundation’s Some of the New York Dames at the 2013 James Beard Foundation Gala, "Women taste of exquisite-quality philanthropic and other efforts. in Whites": Carol Brock, Mary Ellen Griffin, chocolate. Dorothy Hamilton, Pam Morgan. www.jamesbeard.org www.peterschocolate.com

Friend partner American Roland Food Corp.’s booth was represented Lesley Hill said she was pleased with by Lisa Kartzman, director of public the way Chef Paul French of the relations, and Lisa Ekus, president Hyatt Regency Austin executed her of The Lisa Ekus Group, LLC, with fresh Hawaiian heart-of-palm salad, help from volunteer chef Berna- which offered an exquisite balance dette Diaz, a recent graduate of the of chile, lime and agave flavors from Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary the Wailea Agricultural Group Arts. Roland served up a wildly pop- station. WAG returned in 2013 as ular farrotto (creamy farro) featuring a Friend partner of LDEI. www. the following Roland products: farro, waileaag.com dried mushrooms, olive oil and fine sea salt. Additionally, the trio served chicken breast marinated in Roland’s sambal oelek sauce. www.rolandfood.com Volunteer Chef Rosa Vera of the Natu- ral Epicurean Academy of Culinary Arts in Austin contributed her carving LDEI welcomed Cakebread Cellars talents by slicing beef brisket to order as a returning Friend partner from for sliders on pretzel rolls with whole- 2011, which allowed attending Dames grain mustard, horseradish sauce, Dr. to greet and congratulate Dolores Pepper BBQ sauce and house pick- Cakebread, recipient of this year’s les at newcomer and Friend partner Grande Dame Award. Dolores and her WÜSTHOF’s station. The chef’s local distributor rep poured tastings of assistance allowed WÜSTHOF rep Lori 2012 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 2011 Vinz to offer incredible discounts on Pinot Noir Anderson Valley and 2012 quality cutlery and knife sets as an exclusive opportunity for Dames Sauvignon Blanc. www.cakebread.com attending the conference. www.wusthof-foodservice.com

WINTER Quarterly 2014 13 Session 7: So You Want To Write A Cookbook? By Barb Pires (Atlanta) cookbook - Paula Disbrowe, Jessica Dupuy, June Naylor, Shubra Raminen, Patricia Sharpe I decided that this breakout session would be a and Ellen Sweets. We were also able to get some good place to start some serious thinking about inside tips from Lisa Ekus. writing my own cookbook. It was interesting to discover how similar and As a former pastry chef that different the process was for all in getting the has created hundreds of recipes, I have many times been final books published. Each had a story to tell, told by friends, family and from starting the process with a basic out- clients “you should write a line and proposal, testing recipes, finding the cookbook.” It seemed to me money to finance the project, getting an agent that it wouldn’t be that difficult a project because to handle the business needs, photography, all of my recipes have been tested and used 100’s getting it published, and the importance of how of times in the bakery I created. After listen- each part of the project had on the final book. ing to the panelists and moderator, I now have It would have been interesting to learn what second thoughts. It is not just about recipes. one can expect to receive for the advance and The panelists ranged from writers who cre- how profitable the book projects were. After ated their own recipes for their own cookbooks listening to these women tell their story, I am to writers who worked with chefs on the chef’s rethinking the idea of my own cookbook.

Tracey Maurer, Nancy Fitch, Session 8: Debbie Wheeler, Lisa Wong, Kris Ackerman, Julie Hettiger, Carla Buerkle. Photo by Lori Willis. Bottom: Rosario’s Texas Tamale Shoot Corn, Poblano & Crab Ta- males. Food styling by Julie By Carol Fenster (Colorado) Hettiger and Carla Buerkle; photo by Tracey Maurer. The Texas Tamale Shoot team—Commercial Food Photographer Tracy Maurer (San Antonio) and Food Stylists Julia Hettiger-Nelson (Houston) and Carla Buerkle (Houston)—showed us how to transform the typically humble, mundane tamale into a work of art with five delectable examples. The team’s challenge was to meet cle the goals of its client, Chef Deb- ir bie Wheeler (Houston), with five unique images featuring the flavors C of Sweet, Seafood, Vegetarian, Pork, and Beef. The team’s main k message: Your image is your brand, and people eat with their eyes, so it c is important to present your food in the best possible light. The best way to do this is with professional food o photography. We sampled delicious, beautiful tamales created by r Lisa Wong (San Antonio), owner of Rosario’s Mexi- can Café y Cantina, and Iliana De la Vega, owner of El Naranjo, that drew us in and urged us to “become one with the tamale.” B The Culinary Institute of America San Antonio and its students, as well as Nancy Fitch (San Antonio) and Kris- tine Ackerman (Dallas) helped make the shoot a reality. Especially helpful was an actual “set-up” of a shoot, complete with lighting, props, and a real, fresh tamale. A table of all the possible props that were considered for the shoot proved that there are many possible ap- proaches to consider. When the team was asked about using natural, outdoor light to do food photography (for people who don’t have a studio set-up), the advice was to photograph in the shade so the sun doesn’t blow out the details. L 14 Les Dames d’EscoffierD International EI Putting the Customer Back Into Customer Service By Marje Bennetts ing methods utilize training tools/materials (Los Angeles/ Orange County) created by Zing Train, a training business de- veloped for businesses to adapt to all organiza- Dames heard what is new, what is relevant, tions – from restaurants and caterers to banks, and what needs to be revis- schools, and more. ited when looking to revive Highlights included: the energy, enthusiasm, • Stay current. If customers demand to take and methods of making photos of each and everything on a plate, customers the focus of good deal with it. Make it work. customer service. The topic • Get over being right. Embrace doing it Sysco Delivers... was presented to a full house right. No need to debate an issue and look by Sharon Watkins (Aus- at what you believe was right; instead, tin), owner of the host city’s successful Chez make it right NOW for customers. Zee American Bistro. She talked basics, how Acknowledge their opinion; let them be and what is relevant today, and how to achieve heard. good customer service. • Train executives, managers, and all employees Sharon founded Chez Zee in 1989 and the in customer service. Practice good hiring. restaurant continually receives rave customer Make the right choices early with employees reviews. Sharon explained, “It doesn’t come who are trainable and sustainable, and keep without attention.” Some of her favorite train- it going. Training and communicating expectations needs to be forever. Sharon concluded with remind- ing all to keep it simple, with great customer service the goal with tools to achieve this goal. This creates recommendations, return visits, and ultimately success. Quality, Integrity, Services,

Austin Dames Kavita Patel, Kitty Crider, and Kate Rowe offer great customer service at the registration desk. cle Sharon Watkins Cir cle k Cir ck o c r B Brock Circle o Adds Five L D E Chapters at Freshness, Value, Comfort. r I Conference

At the annual Council of Delegates meeting in Austin, a very exciting chal- B lenge was posed. Alice Gautsch Fore- man promised to pay for the second- year, $1,000 installment for up to five chapters if they committed to join the Brock Circle yearly pledge. The follow- Chicago and Seattle have since joined ing five chapters accepted her offer and and become our 9th and 10th chapter joined the Circle: members. The other chapters who are members of the Brock Circle are Atlanta, • Austin Dallas, and Houston. Including 25 indi- • Boston vidual Dames, the Brock Circle currently • Philadelphia totals 35 members. For the complete list • St. Louis of current Brock Circle members, please • San Francisco L go to ldei.org. D WINTER Quarterly 2014 15 EI Chapter Photos

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1. SAN FRANCISCO Front: Peggy CiCi Williamson, Katherine Newell Arnold Kinney. Buono. Back: Adrienne Abramson, Smith, Sandra Hu, Elaine Corn, Smith, Linda Joyce Forristal, Stacey 13. BRITISH COLUMBIA Cate Dorothy Koteski. Dolores Cakebread, Eileen Spitalny Adams. Simpson, Susanne Ross, Becky 20. CHARLESTON Front: Dani- Back: Tanya Holland, Amy Hoopes, 6. NEW YORK Front: Nancy Jessup, Paris Turner. elle Wecksler, Nathalie, Susan Chef Helen Roberts, Sue Conley. Margaret Happel Perry, Mary Ellen 14. LOS ANGELES Marje Bennett, Slack. Back: Susan Wigley, Deidre 2. SAN ANTONIO Front: Kathy Griffin, Carol Brock, Beth Allen, Nancy Eisman, Janet Burgess, Schipani Shearer, Pat Mozersky, Linda Pamela Morgan, Suzen O'Rourke. Maria Gomez-Laurens. 21. SAN DIEGO Front: Janet Bur- Triesch, Leslie Horne Back:Lauren Back: Joan Bloom, Patricia Cobe, 15. LONDON & PHOENIX Sue gess, Dana Chaldekas, Marie Kel- Browning, Christine Kelly, Nancy Marsha Palanci, Vanessa Trost, Liz Carter, Eileen Spitalny (holding ley. Back: Maria Gomez-Laurens, Fitch, Tracey Maurer, Kim Mauldin, Young, Regina Ragone. drawing of Gwen Ashley Walters). Sharon VanMeter. Maureen Weissman, Lisa Wong, 7. MINNEAPOLIS/ST. PAUL Merrilyn 16. DALLAS Front: Karen Cassady, 22. KANSAS CITY Kathy Moore, Di-Anna Arias, Susan Jaime . Tauscher, Cindy Jurgensen. Sally Bolick, Renie Steves, Sharon Kimberly Winter Stern, Martha 3. CHICAGO Front: Patty Erd, 8. PALM SPRINGS Nancy Cohee, Van Meter, Kris Ackerman. Back: Morgan Pruitt. Linda Avery, Sara Reddington, Zola Nichols. Deborah Orrill, Mary Kimbrough, 23. CLEVELAND Front: Crickett Donna Pierce. Back: Sharon Olson, 9. ATLANTA Front: Stacy Zeigler, Paula Lambert, Susan Auler. Karson, Molly Thompson, Shara Shannon Kinsella, Jean Marie Amy Crowell, Gena Berry, Shelley 17. ST. LOUIS Front: Lori Willis, Ju- Bohach. Back: Carol Hacker, Beth Brownson, Jennifer Lamplough, Pedersen, Becky Minchew, Debi dith Bellos, Kathy Rule. Back: Mary Davis-Noragon. Veronica Hastings, Karen Levin, Loftis, Virginia Willis, Suzanne Sutkus, Cecily Hoffius. 24. SEATTLE Front: Alice Gautsch Toria Emas, Judith Schad. Brown. Back: Vicky Murphy, 18. HOUSTON Front: Lisa Cox, Foreman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, 4. BOSTON Front: Isabel Chesak, Allison Palestrini, Tamie Cook, Julie Hettiger, Sarah Finster, Katherine Kehrli. Back: Marilyn Guida Ponte, Winnie Williams, Holly Chute, Kathleen Perry, Mary Deborah Woehler, Marian Tindall, Carlson, Patricia Gelles, Anne Lucille Giovino. Back: Gwen Moore, Barb Pires, Lenada Merrick. Chara Gafford, Diane Adams. Nisbet. Trost, Toni Manning, Lee Napoli, 10. NORTHEAST Barbara Spencer, Back: Janice Hays-Cavada, Debbie 25. MONTEREY BAY Front: Nancy Lisa Ekus. Candace Karu. Wheeler, Barbara Cook, Carla Marr, Mary Chamberlin. Back: 5. WASHINGTON, DC Front: The- 11. MIAMI Dorothee Rubin, Pris- Buerkle, Shubhra R, Molly Kamin- Karla Stockli, Sharon VanMeter. resa Morrison, Linda Roth Conte, cilla Bittson. ski, Yvonne Sternes. 26. HAWAII Front: Soleil Fusha, Drew Faulkner, Ann Stratte, Judy 12. COLORADO Marcia Kramer, 19. PHILADELPHIA Front: Linda Hayley Matson-Mathes, Cheryl To. Rusignuolo. Back: Teresa Farney, Teresa Farney, Carol Fenster, Holly Joyce Forristal, Kathy Gold, Lynn Back: Lesley Hill, Nancy Edney.

cle Cir ck o r The Austin Chapter is pictured on the cover. B L D EI 16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 7 9

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WINTER Quarterly 2014 17 Friday is for

Fiesta!By CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.) Ahhhhh, ha! Lively mariachi music beck- oned Dames to stroll into the Friday-night Fiesta! down the street from the conference hotel at The Long Center for the Perform- ing Arts. But to our delight, the music was emanating from an all-female group, Ma- riachi Las Coronelas. Las damas were clad in slinky, red-satin dresses, their trumpets, guitars, violins, and vihuelas (high-pitched, five-string guitars) at high volume. Strung around the room were colorful papeles picados (perforated, rectangular paper banners). Many tables, and, yes, even a bicycle cart, of food waited to be dipped, sipped, slurped, and spooned. Offered on los bufés draped with colorful cloths were nopales (cactus paddle)-and- jicama salads, lamb barbacoa, beef brisket, chicken al carbon, spicy salsitas in paper cones, handmade tortillas, and of course, bowls of guacamole and salsas with piles of chips. Restaurants providing la comida (food) included Al Alma, El Naranjo, Fresa’s Chicken, and T1 Tequila Uno. White luminarias (perforated paper bags) filled with paper flowers comprised the dining table centerpieces. Bar service included tequila-spiked, tropical-fruit punches served in glass jars (just like street vendors in Mexico serve them); margaritas; Real (Royal) ale; and Wente wines. Para los postres (desserts), one could choose from frozen ice creams and sorbets kept cold in the bicycle cart. Fla- vors included café con leche, tres-leches cake, mint-chocolate chip, Mexican goat’s milk, and coconut sorbet provided by Fresa’s. At the far end of the room, Dames could have group photos taken at Smilebooth con muy guapo (with very handsome) Cowboy Kyle. As the event wound down, it was ¡Buenas noches con mucho gusto!

Top photo: Washington D.C. Dames with Cowboy Kyle. Back: Sta- cey Adams, Katherine Newell Smith, CiCi Williamson, Ann Stratte, Theresa Morrison. Front: Judy Rusignuolo, Drew Faulkner, Carolyn Cheney (CiCi’s Mom). Middle photo: Molly Thompson, Crickett Karson. Bottom photo: Judy Schad, Cathy Strange.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Serving Local Foods for Everyday Meals By Molly Reams Thompson (Cleveland) and Heather Hunter (San Antonio) What if one conversation could literally change the course of a community environmentally, socially and economically? This year’s national Green Tables (GT) Committee set out to do just that by serving up a generous helping of sustainable-food conversation at the conference breakfast on October 26. This year’s theme, “Serving Local Foods for Everyday Meals,” was established by committee members Wendy Taggart (Dallas), Molly Kaminski (Houston), Shubhra Ramineni (Houston), Julia Rosenfeld (San Antonio), Heather Hunter (San Antonio), Drew Faulkner (Washington, DC) and Molly Thompson (Cleveland), who also served as the morning’s moderator. Others who were integral but worked behind-the-scenes included GT Chairs, Linda Geren and Lynn Fredericks, as well the as Ashley James (creator of the GT blog and Pinterest sites). The event featured four stars of Texas—one shining example Outlaw from each of the Texas chapters: now playing at wusthofedge.com • Wendy Taggart, (Dallas) and co- founder of Bur- gundy Pasture Beef, demonstrated the power of producing Chef Katherine Clapner a dry-aged beef as Dude, Sweet Chocolate, Dallas, TX well as networking with other local producers to offer a range of superior 13628_4293_LDEI ConfrenceAustin_3.7917x5.0498.indd 1 9/24/13 5:48 PM products for everyday meals. Jeannette Ferrary was honored to have her Belmont Farmer’s • Heather Hunter Market photograph selected the winner of the LDEI Green (San Antonio), Tables Eating Real photo. Handcrafted founder of Cowgirl Premium Sake Granola and the Quarry Farmers Market, and Silbia Esparza, from executive director of Time Dollar, shared the impact of their Niigata Japan unique partnership whereby surplus produce and other fine edibles are donated to the food pantry each week. • Monica Pope, renowned farm-to-fork Houston chef, shared how her commitment to real food brings together people in her local community. • Ronda Rutledge, executive director of Austin’s Sustainable Food Center (also the organization that hosted the Day of Service on Food Day on October 24) enlightened the audience about the importance of access to local food in any community.

Following the panel, there was an outpouring of interest and support. One Dame was so moved, she wrote a check to support Silbia Esparza’s Time Dollar Community Connections in San Antonio. As arbiters of excellence in fine food, beverage, and hospitality, it is incumbent upon us as Dames to be champions of change

in the food communities in which we live. Hungry for more? n og a

Please visit the Green Tables page and the new blog on the y H h t o

LDEI website at ldei.org. i m y T An extraordinary achievement e b g a m I

Be A Hiro, drink responsibly

Hiro Sake_ODRSPR13.indd 1 2/14/13 1:09 PM WINTER Quarterly 2014 19 Sessions

Session 10: Planning Your Chapter's GCI Programs By Marian Chamber of Commerce, culinary or foreign ideas and people. Our Tindall historians, local food festivals, mantra should be: Think global, (Houston) gourmet food importers, interna- but act local. tional trade organizations, visiting LDEI Past 4. Ideas for implementing GCI authors, teachers and experts, President and • Tour of an international food cooking schools and universities, Global Culi- market: stage a scavenger hunt and religious groups. nary Initiative Chair, Sandy Hu around the market. One organization active in (San Francisco), led the session • LDEI international book fair. this field is The Norman Bor- tailored to chapters’ needs. Much • Program on dining etiquette laug Institute for International helpful information was gleaned. or table settings in different Agriculture. The Texas A&M countries or cultures. 1. Benefits of Global Programs/ University System continues the • Program on themed food: Outreach Borlaug legacy by fighting global sacred food of India, Day of the Benefits include understanding hunger and poverty. It is com- Dead in Mexico. Sandy Hu. Photo by Susan Slack others, educating ourselves, retain- mitted to global partnerships to • Program around spices or uses ing culinary history, gaining deeper promote food security, resource of a grain, such as rice, in dif- cording to three different ethnic insight into food and new uses for conservation, and international ferent cultures. cuisines. culinary ingredients, jump-starting development. The university will • Do a dine-around at ethnic • Start a culinary book club. your own creativity, and having a provide instructions and materials restaurants in the community Read and discuss a book: Like fun and delicious experience! for starting school gardens. or open it up to the public and Water for Chocolate or High 2. Who or what can assist us 3. What factors would keep a charge for it. on the Hog; follow up with a in achieving global culinary chapter from undertaking GCI • Contact an ethnic community restaurant visit. knowledge? programs? garden. 5. Remember to send informa- We can utilize all of the following: Time, money, and participation • Program using one ingredient, tion on chapter activities involv- Cultural centers such as the French are factors. People may fear new such as chicken, prepared ac- ing GCI to the Quarterly!

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Photo by Susan Slack A Legacy of Leadership: Looking Toward the Future By Susan Fuller Slack Catering), worked at the catering company of (Charleston) award-winning Chef Lisa Dupar (Seattle). Amy Hoopes, Executive Vice President Five professional women were lauded as of Global Sales and Marketing for Wente LDEI’s 2013 Legacy Awards recipients in Aus- Vineyards, introduced winners Rachel Tracy tin during the annual Legacy Awards luncheon. of Chicago, Illinois, and Gloria Chang of We don’t mind telling you The audience was informed and inspired hear- Vancouver, British Columbia. Both women what goes into our pure, all natural ing the winners share stories of their one-week, received a Legacy Wine award and were men- Dame-hosted externships and how their career Irish cheese and butter. tored by Wente Family Estates CEO Carolyn It’s pure, all natural Irish milk paths are being impacted in a positive way. Wente and Amy. that comes from cows that graze on pure, Kikkoman Sales USA Marsha thanked the sponsors and Legacy all natural Irish grass. hosted the elegant lun- Committee members for their invaluable sup- cheon; Helen Roberts port. The committee included Stacy Zeigler This is where we come from. (San Francisco), Kikko- (Atlanta), Patricia Gelles (Seattle), Suzie kerrygoldusa.com man’s Manager of Culinary O’Rourke (New York), Holly Hadsell-El- Development, organized Hajji (Hawaii), Susan Weinstein (Miami), the event. Looking to the Sue Huffman Robison (San Francisco), East for inspiration, she Barbara Ostmann (St, Louis), and Abigail arranged a first course of Nutty Noodles with Kirsch and Alison Awerbuch (New York). Peanut Dressing followed by a main course of Toria expressed gratitude for a $12,000 grant Ginger–Soy Infused Steamed Alaska Halibut, from the Julia Child Foundation for Gastrono- Roasted Asparagus, and Asian Coleslaw with my and the Culinary Arts, doubling the size of Candied Walnuts. The halibut was provided the awards program. She also thanked chapters by LDEI Partner Alaska Marketing Seafood offering financial support including Atlanta, Institute. Austin, British Columbia, Dallas, Miami, The dishes paired beautifully with two Wente Monterey, New York, and San Francisco. Family Estates California wines: Double Deck- The spring Quarterly will salute the 2013 winer Pinot Grigio 2011 and Red Blend 2010. ners and hosts and update Dames on the exciting Dessert was a sweet indulgence of Crème 2014 awards program. New hosts will include Brulée with Orange Sauce. The flavor of each Susan Westmoreland and Sharon Franke at course was subtly enhanced through the use of the Good Housekeeping Research Institute Test Kikkoman’s distinctive Asian-style sauces. Kitchen and Leslie Hill at the Wailea Agricul- The 2013 awards were granted in three tural Group on the Big Island of Hawaii. categories: Farm-to-Table Entrepreneurship, Marsha announced that she and Toria will Culinary-Catering, and Wine. Legacy Co-chair relinquish their Legacy Committee co- Marcia Palanci told attendees, "The goal of chairmanship to the “bi-coastal, block-buster the Legacy Awards program, established in duo of Alison Awerbuch and Sue Huffman 2009, is to invest in tomorrow’s leaders by put- Robinson. With their leadership qualities, ting the winners under the tutelage of talented marketing savvy, and passionate commitment, Dames who volunteer their time and expertise. the Legacy Awards are in excellent hands.” The experience is offered to non-Dame women Toria says, “Co-chairing the Legacy Awards in the USA, Canada and the UK…." for the past five years has been the most Co-chair Toria Emas introduced recipients rewarding experience of my LDEI tenure. All Kim Youkstetter of Shrewsbury, Massachu- the women have been outstanding in their setts (Farm-to-Table) and Lana Bernstein own right. Each year brings new inspiration. of Columbus, Ohio (Culinary-Catering). Our new co-chairs will expand our reach and Kim was hosted by Paulette Satur of Satur increase the professionalism of the program.” Farms and Ursula Massoud of Paumanok Toria added that she and Marsha plan to Vineyard. Lana worked under the tutelage of remain on the committee and look forward to seven award-winning Atlanta Dame caterers: working behind the scenes. “Spread the word Sandra Bank, Liz Cipro, Mary Hataway, about this career-expanding opportunity and Stacy Zeigler, Kristy Cook, Nancy Lutz be on the lookout for talent in your area. Let’s and Shelly Pederson. Honored in absentia, keep the Legacy Awards alive and thriving.” Ryann Sharpe of Rex, Georgia (Culinary-

WINTER Quarterly 2014 21 Sessions

Session 11: Texas Women Talk Texas Wines By Braiden Rex-Johnson wines, and was the first Texas winery to plant (Seattle), LDEI Second the Viognier varietal, in 1997. Vice President Located on Lake Travis in Spicewood, Texas, Stone House Vineyard was established in Who knew that Tex- 2004 by Angela Moench (Austin) and her as boasts more than husband, Howard. The winery is well known 270 bonded winer- for crafting wines from estate-grown Norton ies, 4,400 acres of grapes, a native American varietal. grapevines, and eight Karen Johnson (Austin), president of American Viticultural Alamosa Wine Cellars, established in 1996 in Areas (AVAs)? Bend, Texas, is proud to craft Mediterranean- And that a cadre of talented LDEI style wines made exclusively from Texas members pioneered the Lone Star State’s grapes including “El Guapo,” a Spanish- wine industry? inspired red blend. During “Texas Women Talk Texas Wines,” Kathy Gilstrap (Austin) is vice president of Photo Caption: we learned that Susan Auler (Austin and Texas Hills Vineyard, established in 1995 and Kathy Gilstrap (left), Dallas) and her husband, Ed, are credited Susan Auler, and located in Johnson City, Texas. The winery with “starting the modern Texas wine indus- Karen Johnson specializes in wines made from Italian, Span- worked on the very try.” They launched Fall Creek Vineyards in ish, and French varietals including its famous first brochure for the Tow, Texas, in 1975, and their MERITUS, Texas Wine Trail. Kick Butt Cab. a multi-award-winning Bordeaux blend, has “The Texas wine industry is very giving,” become a much-anticipated “cult” wine. says Gilstrap. “Over the years, we have Becker Vineyards, located near Fredricks- bought and shared equipment and even burg, Texas, was started in 1992 by Bunny made wine at each other’s facilities.” Becker (San Antonio) and her husband, For further info visit www.TexasWineTrail. Richard. The winery offers up award-winning com and www.TexasWines.org. Bordeaux-, Burgundian-, and Rhone-styled

Session 12: Dig a Big Hole, Fill It Full of Money? Tips for Starting an Artisan Food Business

By Lisa Ekus (Boston) retail? Join every organization; network to build farm-bound producers’ stories to their custom- personal relationships/friends. It’s easy to create a ers. They also have a cheese house across the They all agreed-- follow your food passion. product, but it’s hard to sell a new product!” street offering classes and a wholesale program Each of the panelists love food, created a to educate local chefs. “Do the numbers at the viable food business, and won numerous Tracy Claros (Austin), Founder Sticky Toffee back end, work out the budget, and figure out impressive awards. Not their first careers, they Pudding Co., discovered and loved this English the timing to make a profit. Make sure to get had a financially stable po- dessert. From farmers’ market sales, she began product in the best shape all year round.” Her sition for launching their selling her now-international product in 2004. philosophy: “Let’s grow together. Be persis- artisan businesses. They Her challenge: Explaining “pudding” and get- tent and keep coming back. You’re the biggest advise, “Do not expect ting people to taste it. After attending NASFT, advocate as the provider. You have to keep to earn money for quite she realized she needed more than one prod- championing your product.” some time—five years on uct to survive. Claros says “It takes creativity, average.” financing, production facilities, packaging, Stephanie McClenny (Austin), founder of branding, and marketing. It’s almost better Confituras, started a jam company while she Paula Lambert (Dallas) not to know what you’re getting into. I’m a was also a pediatric nurse. She expanded her opened her own business, with two women risk taker. I plunged in and just did it!” Her home-canning hobby to a farmers’ market partners, after "avocationally" helping with her first production space cost her $5 per hour. space, selling out of 150 jars in two hours. husband's business. Three decades later--after Then she leased 1500 square feet of space for “It was a relatively low investment and the studying cheesemaking in Italy, she makes 30 three years. Eventually she was turning down right time for local food lovers.” The quantity kinds of cow, sheep, and goat’s milk cheese and customers because her facility couldn’t produce limitations of local fruit inadvertently created sells nationwide. “I learned just about everything enough, so she decided to use a co-packer. demand. Her reputation brought many of the I know by volunteer work! I took every culinary stores to her, and she now has product in over seminar I could at conferences and the Fancy Buyer Kendall Sky Antonelli (Austin) and a dozen stores in Austin. “I watch the weather Food Show about how to have a specialty-food her husband opened Antonelli’s Cheese Shop a lot! Every year it (her product) is a little bit business and bring your product to market. four years ago. “He picked cheese and cheese different, and people appreciate that. I’m always These were invaluable resources. Think about picked us,” she says. Passionate about Ameri- changing and improving product and increas- how you are going to distribute: wholesale or can artisanal cheese, their goal was to tell the ing the number of recipes for customers.” 22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International grande dame award dinner By Lori Willis (St. Louis, Over the past 40 years, Dolores and Jack LDEI First Vice President) have worked side-by-side to build their wine business, turning their personal love story Like the fine wines she produces, Dolores into a successful family enterprise. Cakebread, has only gotten better with age. Today, Cakebread Cellars is operated by At the age of 80 she remains one of the most sons Dennis and Bruce, both of whom are respected women in the wine industry. And, committed to keeping their parents’ dream on October 26, many corks were popped alive. Perhaps Jack summed up the Cake- in celebration as she was honored with Les breads’ vision best, in a quote from the Dames d’Escoffier International’s prestigious website, “One heartbeat since 1973.” Grande Dame award. Food and wine were stellar. Chaired by Dolores and her husband, Jack, started Beth Pav, Austin Dames including Kris- the winery by chance when they casually tine Kittrell, Teresa Wilson, and Sharon made an offer to buy a vineyard in the Napa Watkins starred in the salad, soup, and Valley. A short time later, in 1973, they dessert courses, supplemented by the Hyatt introduced the very first Cakebread wine Regency Austin’s Executive Chef, Paul and have never looked back. French, on the entrée and cheese courses. Dolores’ 40-year career as a winemaker has The evening’s wines were supplied by long- inspired many industry leaders–women and time LDEI sponsor Wente Vineyards. men alike. One in particular was there to pay Decor by Beth Pav's committee, was special tribute to her at the Grande Dame stunning, the formal tables in the warmly banquet. Amy Hoopes (San Francisco), lighted dining room graced by statuesque Executive Vice President of Global Sales/ tube vases filled with hydrangeas, irises, lil- Chief Marketing Officer of Wente Wines, ies, and forsythia in contrasting shades of presented Dolores with a large-format bottle white, orange, purple, and yellow. of Wente Wine, along with a toast, offer- Kittrell’s Roasted Beet Salad (of all colors ing congratulations and best wishes from and varieties!), topped by LDEI Sponsor one prominent California family winery to Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute’s Weath- another. ervane Scallops paired perfectly with Wente The Cakebreads are known for their dedi- Vineyards Riva Ranch 2012 Chardonnay. cation to quality; progressive winemaking; Wilson’s spicy Roasted Eggplant Velouté and good, old fashioned hospitality. Wine with Za’atar-Scented Panisses played nicely lovers from all over the country come to with Wente Vineyards Reliz Creek 2010 Napa to meet Dolores and her family, and Pinot Noir, while French’s Smoked Pimento- see where their favorite wines originate (see Rubbed Short Rib held up well to Wente’s the Fall 2013 Quarterly for a full story on Charles Wetmore 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon. the Cakebreads).

Why is Executive Director Greg Jewell smiling? Because it’s Saturday night and his job as trail boss herding cats has ended ... for this conference. Meow! Above: Amy Hoopes (right) presents an engraved bottle of Wente wine to Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread. Photo by Lori Willis. The cheese course was assembled by Paul French, Executive Chef, Hyatt Regency Austin, and included Jarlsberg Classic, Hickory Smoked Jarlsberg, Ski Queen Gjetost, and SnoFrisk Cheeses Cheeses (donated by Jarlsberg USA) with a Fig Compote, Quince, Local Honeycomb, and Grilled Ciabatta, and paired with Wente Vineyards Small Lot Orange Muscat 2012, Livermore Valley. Photo by CiCi Williamson. Dessert was a sunny-bright Lemon-Rosemary Cake with Lemon Curd and Whipped Cream-Cheese Frosting, a recipe of Sha- ron Watkins, Owner, Chez Zee American Bistro, accompanied by Ferra Coffee’s Kaldi—a unique coffee blend with beans from Ethiopia, Guatemala, and Mexico. Photo by Susan Slack.

WINTER Quarterly 2014 23 Compiled by Janet Burgess (San Diego)

the Art Institute (Ai) of Charleston, hosted the annual LDEI Charleston Boston Chapter’s scholarship luncheon. Lucille Giovino Honored at this event were: Neelie Carroll, LeeAnne Lower, and Brianna In September, 36 Dames and guests attended a Wagner. Wagner, an Ai student, made the desserts for the Dames. Carroll tea tasting at L’Espalier restaurant in Boston. We and Lower attend the College of Charleston. Miroslava (Mirka) Zelanako- were greeted with a surprise Champagne-and-Earl- va, a student at Trident Technical College’s Culinary College of Charleston, Grey cocktail followed by a five-course tea tour of was unable to attend. Hawaii, China, and Taiwan. Dame and tea sommelier Cynthia Gold led us through the tasting of three courses perfectly Chicago paired with an appetizer, unusual tea sandwiches, JeanMarie Brownson and desserts. Of note, these teas are so rare and The Union League Club of Chicago hosted the Chicago Dames Who Judith precious that they are stored in their own humidor. Read on September 9. Dunbar Hines Cynthia has travelled the world visiting tea led the discussion plantations to learn firsthand knowledge from the of Thomas Jefferson’s Crème Brulee, farmers who create these special teas. How a Founding Father and His In October, Guida Ponte, with the help of Slave James Hemings Introduced Massachusetts Audubon Society/Drumlin Farm French Cuisine to America by Education Specialist Sally Farrow, participated Thomas J. Craughwell. in National Food Week with the students from The evening began with a Robinson Middle School in Lowell, Mass. Guida tour of the127-year-old club’s spent the afternoon cooking with the students magnificent art collection, one who learned about new foods and how delicious of the largest privately held collec- vegetables are. tions in the United States. Much High school students from the Greater Lowell of the evening’s book discussion Technical High-School helped Guida and Sally Cynthia Gold and Guida Ponte. centered on the 86 crates of “Get Kids Cooking” as the middle schoolers kitchen equipment and foodstuffs learned to make carrot soup, citrus salad, pumpkin Thomas Jefferson acquired dur- whoopie pies, and candy apples. ing his 1784 to 1789 tenure in Paris. Olive oil, Maille Mustard, anchovies, macaroni, and cases Charleston of wine never seen before in this Deidre Schipani country were shipped to the port Thanks to Donna Gustafson, of Boston. of Epic Feast, our September 11 In France, Jefferson studied annual business meeting took place the cultivation of French crops, in the former residence of Revo- collected wines and seeds and lutionary War patriot Major Peter discovered new cooking gadgets. Bocquet, Jr. The 1770 property, Meanwhile, his slave, James Crème Brulee an example of some of the finest Hemings, apprenticed under Union League Dinner on September 9, 2013. Georgian interior architecture in French master chefs. Union Menu and Book for Dames Charleston, had been destined for League Club Chef, Michael the wrecking ball, but was saved Garbin welcomed Dames to one of the modern-art-filled dining rooms of thanks to the efforts of Ronald the magnificent 1925 building. Inspired by President Jefferson and Craugh- Momier. well’s entertaining narrative history, Chef Garbin served a Jefferson-themed Our new 2013-2014 chapter dinner with multiple vegetable dishes and a modicum of meat. In this case, members, and their sponsors, are Front row: scholarship winners Brianna Wagner, Neelie Carroll, LeeAnne Lower. Back row: Deidre meltingly tender veal shank. listed below. Schipani, Susan Wigley, Jacqueline Orak, Jennifer Dinner concluded with Jefferson’s cherished sweets: French macarons, Lisa Buzzelli, Hospitality and Goldman, Nathalie Dupree, Paige Crone, Danielle pâtes de fruits, and crème brûlée. Tourism Instructor, Trident Tech- Wecksler, Lauren Mitterer, Devany Vickery-Davidson, nical College/CIC; Angel Postell. Lisa Buzzelli. Sara Clow, General Manager, CLEVELAND GrowFood Carolina; Elizabeth Beak. Shara Bohach Devany Vickery-Davidson, Spice and Tea Exchange, Freelance Food On September 23, we held our annual meeting at Lucky’s Cafe Tremont. Writer, Photographer, and PR; Nathalie Dupree. After the Chapter meeting’s business, including a “Year in Review,” Heather Jill Mathias, Executive Chef, Carolina’s; Lauren Mitterer. Haviland and her fabulous staff dished up an amazing, as-local-as-it-gets Ann Marie, Faculty, Arts Institute (Ai); Susan Wigley menu. She described the ingredients which came predominately from Ohio Jessica Mischner, Senior Editor, Garden and Gun; Maggie Kennedy. farms, and as close as the garden next to the restaurant. Dames brought On Friday October 19, 24 North Market, the student-run restaurant at their own wine to share over this truly delectable dinner. The table, decked

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Birmingham Becomes 29th Chapter of LDEI By CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.) The largest group ever to petition LDEI for a new chapter charter was approved at the annual Council of Delegates meeting on Oc- tober 26. More than 50 qualified women were part of the weighty petition submitted to LDEI by Chapter President Angela Schmidt. Cleveland Dames from L-R: Rosemary Hurst, Jean Mackenzie, Shara Bohach, Beth Davis- Noragon, Linda Fletcher, Mimma Bonderer, Carmella Fragassi, Maggie Harrison, Nichole Angela said, “I have Clark, Terry Frick, Elaine Cicora, Marilou Suszko, Marty Nagele, Cynthia Eaken. Chocolate dreamed of uniting the Mousse Bombe women in Birmingham for nine years, and I am out in a beautiful fall theme with candelabras and fresh flowers, added to the cozy ambiance. in awe of the women who have joined me in COLORADO that vision. We have an Beverly Cox incredible amount of On October 20, talent and accomplish- Colorado Dames ment in this city. It fills enjoyed afternoon me with great pride to tea and a private think of what we will tour of Cherokee accomplish as a group.” Castle, home of After hearing the news the late Tweet that her Birmingham Kimball who was a Chapter had been ap- famous Colorado proved, she said, “I im- cattle woman, con- mediately texted all the servationist, and Colorado Dames: Lois Hoffman, Sally Davidson, Jan Findlater. hostess extraor- Seated: Holly Arnold Kinney, Beverly Cox, Carol Fenster, Teresa officers, who were just as dinaire. Kimball Farney, Sandra Weber. Guests in foreground: Jan’s friend Mari- ecstatic as I was!” entertained HRH lyn Cockburn and Sandra’s charming mother, Nadine Weber. Angela first heard Princess Anne about LDEI working among many other luminaries. As we left the castle, we were fortunate as a server for Marla to spot the magnificent wild elk herd that roams on Cherokee ranch. Adams (Atlanta), Chef/ Owner of Babette’s

HAWAII Café. After moving to Nathalie Dupree, Becky Satterfield, Angela Schmidt, Jean Hull Birmingham, Angela CCi Williamson. Photo by the waiter! On October 16, Jean contacted me in 2003 Angela Schmidt leads the discussion about starting Hull and Dr. Carol when I was LDEI Presi- a new Birmingham Chapter. Photo by CiCi Williamson. Whitaker presented dent, and we’ve emailed an American Culinary intermittently over the years. Finally the time was right for Angela Federation (ACF) Chef-and-Child to work on starting a chapter: She had the time, Birmingham had Cooking Class to 17 escalated to a great food city, and culinary women needed to join for children between the mutual support. ages of nine and 11. Amy Hoopes, LDEI Secretary, tasked with chapter expansion, The children loved began working with Angela on the requirements to charter a chap- the class and are ask- ter. When Amy’s schedule prohibited her from attending the initial ing for more healthy gathering of interested women, Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree cooking classes. Hull and I flew to Birmingham on September 7. Picked up at our hotel and Whitaker reach by Becky Satterfield (now Vice President for Membership), whom over 1,000 children in Angela had met at a local “Iron Chef” competition, we enjoyed West Hawaii through Dr. Carol Whittaker with children. various ACF programs dinner at Highlands Bar and Grill prepared by Chef Frank Stitt III, to give children a “gift that lasts a lifetime,” making wise food choices. whose wife Pardis is the new chapter’s Vice President for Programs. The menu consisted of Garden Salad with Homemade Ranch Dress- On Sunday morning at a brunch hosted by Brett Bright, man- ing, Oven-Roasted Chicken Nuggets and Black-Bean Chocolate- ager of Avo, I presented a PowerPoint history of LDEI, Nathalie Kissed Cupcakes with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream. gave a talk, and we fielded questions about LDEI. Many thanks to Susan Swagler (Chapter Secretary) who brought a laptop and MIAMI connected it to the big-screen TV. The reception was attended by Marguerite Gil an extraordinary group of 28 accomplished culinary women in all Our gala dinner took place on November 16, at the Ritz Carlton stages of careers that varied from Southern Living test-kitchen chefs in Coconut Grove, Miami. Executive Chef Ramesh Kaduru and his to journalists and restaurant owners. The room was electric with team prepared an unforgettable dinner for everyone to enjoy in a regal the sound of excited women’s voices. If you can imagine steel-toed setting. Attention to detail was paramount for this special evening and “magnolias” with honey dripping from their chins, you’ll get the even our beautiful invitations had a noble story to tell. idea of how business will be accomplished in the new “Deep South” The invitations were handmade by members of the Miami Paper Birmingham Chapter. Museum located in the historic Biltmore Hotel, Miami. Using an ancient technique the paper was composed of fabric, paper pulp, flow-

WINTER Quarterly 2014 25 ers, threads, and a variety of organic garden materials. of mother sauces, Dames spoke about their career paths and answered questions. Next the paper was soaked and mixed with water then Later that month, Charlotte-Ann Albertson hosted an event featuring a local poured over screens filled with blossoms and leaves. food columnist. A portion of the proceeds of the event benefit the chapter’s Once set, the paper was carefully dried, then cut one scholarship fund. Meanwhile, Kathy Gold, Adrienne Abramson, Dottie by one into its present format (8 x 10). Press-dried Koteski, Michele Haines, Lynn Buono, Lisa Kartzman, and Linda Forristal grape leaves from Lucila Venet Jimenez’s garden attended the conference in Austin, providing Tweets and Facebook posts to were placed onto each folded invitation then wrapped tantalize those who couldn’t attend. And on Halloween, there were no tricks, and tied with a blue ribbon that is reminiscent of the only treats, as the chapter partnered with Philadelphia Slow Food for a Food colors of the Les Dames’ logo. The inside printing was Day event at the Reading Terminal Market. Showcasing the region’s bounty for pressed onto woodblocks (6 ½ x 4 1/2) which created the many residents and tourists that visit this historic market, Chapter President a bas-relief frame similar to artistic lithographic works Kathy Gold along with Tia McDonald, Michele Haines, and Linda Geren of art. provided cooking demonstrations and recipes. Dames agreed that our beautiful invitations were suitable for framing. San ANTONIO New York Blanca Aldaco Margaret Happel Perry On October 8, the San Antonio September began with a flourish and an important evening at Amali Chapter had an exciting CoCo Restaurant to welcome Melanie Young’s new book, Getting Things Off My Chanel-inspired evening at the home Chest: A Survivor’s Guide to Staying Fearless and Fabulous in the Face of Breast of Pat Mozersky as our Co-Presidents Cancer. Our nutrition experts–Bonnie Tandy LeBlang, Ellie Krieger, and Leslie Horne and Linda Triesch (Co- Regina Ragone–addressed the issues of women and wellness to a sold-out Co’s from here on) thanked the board event. The excellent discussion led LDNY to form an ad hoc committee and handed over their presidency to under the leadership of Bay Wellington to explore the viability of having a Kathy Shearer. Our new president separate Green Tables women’s health and nutrition initiative. The month welcomed Naylene Dillingham as the New Dames, L-R, Gina Inglett-Gonzalez, Debbie progressed with the New Members Celebration 2013 as we welcomed 14 new Vice President of Membership. Gonzalez, Leslie Ausburn new, distinguished members into LDNY plus one returning member. And Four new members were welcomed to so on to October: First a farm-to-table trip to State University of New York the chapter: Leslie Ausburn, Gina Inglett-Gonzalez, Debbie Gonzalez, and at Cobleskill—thanks to Jo Anne Cloughy, Department Chair, Agriculture Elizabeth Johnson-Kossick. and Food Management, to enjoy a splendid tour of farms and dairies in The Mozersky residence, transformed into the House of Chanel Couture, Schoharie County. The day culminated in a wonderful dinner catered by Jo set the tone for a most magnifique au revoir dinner. Merci to our outgoing co- Anne’s students. Georgia Downard and her team continued to work their presidents and a heartfelt bienvenue (welcome) to our new members. nutritional magic through their interface with PTALabs and Wellness in the Schools (WITS) program. The Green Tables evenings educate parents Seattle by demonstration, panel discussion, and taste-tests extolling the benefits of Braiden Rex-Johnson eating right. On October 30, Barbara Sibley hosted a members-only evening In late July, we celebrated at her restaurant La Palapa Cocina Mexicana for Dames to learn about the summer at the beachside Mexican feast commemorating the Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) and home of Dorene Centioli- all its fascinating traditions. McTigue with a chili cook- off, games and swimming NORTHEAST in Lake Sammamish; a Victoria Taylor heavily laden board of brats, On August 3, Northeast Chapter Dames gathered for a series of farm tours. dogs, sausages, and sides; It was a great success, with 15 Dames in attendance. We visited four diverse and boozy shave ice. farms in New England on a beautiful day for a fun and educational event. The Seattle Chapter’s The tour began with cof- Green Tables Committee fee and pastries at Luanne held the first annual After- Bonanno’s family farm noon on Vashon and Sum- in Methuen, Mass. Next mer Supper in mid-August. we headed north via a Guests visited the Vashon private tour bus to Colby Farmers Market, Palouse Farmstand in Newbury- Winery, and La Biondo port–home to 30 grain-fed Farm & Kitchen followed pigs that produce 300 to by a farm-fresh dinner at Grande Dame Anne Willan signs books during a stop in Seattle 400 piglets every year. Af- the home of Green Tables while promoting her latest book, One Soufflé at a Time: A ter a tour of Colby Farms, Chair Leslie Mackie. Mon- Memoir of Food and France. LDEI President Mary Ellen Griffin we visited Mann Orchards ies raised will be used to shares dinner at Steelhead Diner in the Pike Place Market with (L-R) Charles and Rose Ann Finkel, Spencer Johnson, Martha for a farm-to-fork lunch including a selection of “Mann-wines” and craft fund Green Tables grants, Marino and Braiden Rex-Johnson. beers. After lunch, our tour headed to Shaw Farm dairy for dessert--a taste of which support farm-to- one of the dairy’s 60 varieties of hand-crafted ice cream for dessert. The tour table education programs at local schools and gardening organizations. concluded mid-afternoon at Bonanno Farm. In early September, Seattle Dames welcomed LDEI President Mary Ellen Griffin with a Hard-Cider and Artisan-Cheese Tasting at the Pike Pub, co-owned by Rose Ann Finkel and her husband, Charles. After the presenta- PHILADELPHIA tion, LDEI Board member Braiden Rex-Johnson and her husband, Spen- Lari Robling cer, hosted Griffin, the Finkels, and Martha Marino (Seattle Chapter past In what was hailed as one of the most energetic and inspiring annual busi- president and cider-and-cheese event organizer) for dinner at Steelhead Diner Michele ness meetings in recent memory, we welcomed eight new Dames at in the Pike Place Market. Haines’ restaurant, Spring Mill Café. Through our scholarship fundraising ef- We held our Annual General Meeting at South Seattle Community College in forts we provided three recipients with our Green Tables, C-CAP, and Chapter late September, beginning with appetizers, student-produced wine, and a guided Culinary scholarships. Past presidents presented highlights of their terms as his- tour of the brand-new facilities of the Northwest Wine Academy. During din- tory to new members and fond memories to established members. In October, ner, outgoing president Molly Hancock passed the gavel to incoming president Rita Cinelli the chapter was invited to a luncheon by of Cathedral Kitchen Anne Nisbet, and two of the chapter’s five newly selected Dames, Kari Leitch in Camden, New Jersey. The lunch was prepared by students in the kitchen’s and Renee Erickson, were formally inducted. culinary training program. After a delicious meal showcasing their command

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dames Inducted into Guilde des Fromagers and Confrerie of Saint-Uguzon By JeanMarie Brownson (Chicago) Nine Dames received one of the food world’s highest honors when they were inducted into the Guilde des Fromagers and Confrerie of Saint-Uguzon during the Austin Conference at the Hyatt Regency. The traditional ceremony, conducted in full regalia including robes, included a presentation of medals and certificates. Current Guilde President, Roland Barthe- lem, flew in from France to preside over the ceremony. Cathy Strange, Les Dames Austin chapter president and president of the New World Guilde representing Mexico, Canada, the United States and Australia, assisted. These Dames were inducted into the Guilde: Carrie Nahabedian, Alma Alcocer-Thomas, Cathy Cochran-Lewis, Iliana de la Vega, Roisin Kennedy, Sandra Hu, Paula Lambert, Molly O’Laughlin, and Marsha Palanci. Judith Schad, already a Guilde member, was pro- moted to the Maître Fromager Level. The Guilde has more than 5,600 members throughout the world including Europe, North America, Australia, and South Amer- ica. The nonprofit Guilde Internationale des Fromagers was established to bring together leaders in the dairy sector. Pierre Androuet founded the Brotherhood of St. Uguzon in 1969 to impart knowledge through cheese Some have companionship. The Guilde is open to professional cheese SUSTAINABILITY producers, processors, refiners, and commercial cheese retailers. The Brotherhood written into their of St. Uguzon is open to restaurateurs and those working to promote the delicious brochures. WE have world of cheese. it written into our STATE CONSTITUTION.

To learn more go to wildalaskaflavor.com

WINTER Quarterly 2014 27 Congregation Beth Elohim, magazine and weekly blog will be free to subscrib- Park Slope, Brooklyn) to ers and supported by advertising. Sign up for aid victims of Hurricane the free magazine at http://app.streamsend.com/ Sandy. More than 125,000 public/9vosv1f35c/2CR/subscribe) meals have been prepared and delivered with more SAN ANTONIO than 2,800 volunteers Karen Haram, Food/ involved. Taste/Dining Editor at the San Antonio Express- Ursula Massoud and Rozanne Gold News, received the “Best family celebrated Pau- in the Country Award” for manok Vineyard’s 30th newspaper food coverage anniversary with a celebratory benefit dinner on from the Association of September 28. They released their first sparkling Food Journalists at the wine, a 2009 Blanc de Blanc, made with Pauma- group’s annual conference Karen Haram nok family-grown Chardonnay grapes. Paumanok in Park City, Utah. The Winery has also been nominated for a 2013 Wine Taste section received the award in its circulation Enthusiast Wine Star Award (American Winery of category for the third consecutive year. Compiled by the Year). SAN DIEGO Hanna Lee has been nominated for four presti- Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) Janet Burgess was featured in the San Diego gious PR Week awards. Last year, her company, Union Tribune about her law- enforcement career. Hanna Lee Communications, won PR News' Almost 40 years ago, she was one of the first wom- BOSTON Platinum PR Award for "Best Branding." This en patrol officers in San Diego. Her experiences Jody Adams and Lydia year’s nominations are in four categories, including included working undercover as a hooker. She Shire were recently honored "Best Branding," "Best Media Relations," "Best took cooking classes, attended culinary school, by Boston Medical Center Marketing Communications" and "WOW!," and is now founder/owner of 4littleCOOKS at their 20th Anniversary on behalf of her campaign for The Dead Rabbit Hands-on Cooking School. Food for Thought dinner Grocery and Grog, in lower Manhattan. for their commitment to Kathy Strahs is proud to announce the release Nora Favelukes, QW eradicating hunger among of The Ultimate Panini Press Cookbook, which Wine Experts’ Owner and Boston kids. The event was features more than 200 innovative recipes for the President, launched a new held at the Mandarin Ori- panini press (Harvard Common Press, September Jody Adams business venture: lnsiders’ ental Boston and attended 2013). She is also the author and photographer VIP experiences, organizing by a record number of sup- behind two popular food blogs, PaniniHappy.com visits to top international porters and guests. and CookingOntheSide.com. wine-making regions. The Cleveland first trip is scheduled for SAN FRANCISCO Bev Shaffer announces the March 2014, a unique op- Jeannette Ferrary was hon- Nora Favelukes release of Chocolate Desserts portunity to go behind the ored to have her Belmont to Die For!, the newest of scenes in her native Argentina, from Buenos Aires Farmer’s Market photo- her To Die For! cookbook to Mendoza. Visit http://www.qwwineexperts.com/ graph selected as the winner series. The book teaches of the LDEI Green Tables Lydia Shire Melanie Young, a breast-cancer survivor, food- home cooks how to craft and-wine marketing executive, and author of Eating Real photo contest any chocolate delight, from Getting Things Off My Chest: A Survivor's Guide to (see page 19). soufflés to brûlées, fondues Staying Fearless and Fabulous in the Face of Breast SEATTLE Jeannette Ferrary to tarts. Recipes range from Cancer, advocates for developing easy-to-maintain, classic to more adventurous healthy habits after treatment in her everyday- Cynthia Nims’s new cook- offerings. health.com and greatist.com articles. Titles in- ing class, “French Home Cooking: The Essential Techniques,” recently went live on the website Hawaii clude, “Hydrate, Gyrate, Masticate: A Professional Craftsy. The series goes back to Cynthia’s French Joan Namkoong's new- Foodie's Guide to Eating Well for Breast Cancer cooking-school roots at est cookbook, A Korean Recovery” and “Ten Ways I Stayed Fearless and La Varenne, sharing many Kitchen: Traditional Recipes Fabulous in the Face of Breast Cancer.” Bev Shaffer basic, core techniques with an Island Twist, has Shari Bayer, Bayer Public through classic recipes just been released. Its focus Relations, celebrated ranging from salade verte is Korean food in Hawaii a 10-year-in-business to vanilla-bean ice cream. and how it differs from milestone. The 10th an- www.craftsy.com/essential- Korean food in Korea. niversary party took place french_fp www.mutualpublishing. at the grand-opening of com. Joan is the co-founder her new restaurant client, Marilyn Carlson has of the Farm Bureau’s Farm- Whitman & Bloom Liquor earned the Certified Food Cynthia Nims ers Market, which recently Company, in Kips Bay, Scientist (CFS) credential celebrated its 10th year at from the International Food Joan Namkoong New York City. An article Shari Bayer Kapiolani Community Col- about the festive occasion Science Certification Com- lege, Honolulu. can be found at http://askmissa.com/2013/10/25/ mission (IFSCC). The IF- SCC oversees credentialing NEW YORK whitman-bloom-liquor-company-opens-kips-bay- manhattan/ activities for the Institute Lidia Bastianich took home an Emmy at the 40th of Food Technologists, the Annual Daytime Emmy Awards, for the Awards’ NORTHEAST professional organization of new category, “Outstanding Culinary Host.” Lidia, Denise Landis, longtime New York Times recipe the food-science commu- a world-renowned restaurateur and cookbook tester, announces a new magazine, The Cook's nity worldwide. Marilyn Carlson author, is host of the Public Broadcasting Service’s Cook: A Magazine for Cooks, Food Writers & Jamie Peha, Deba We- Lidia’s Italy. Recipe Testers. Denise will serve as the publisher gner, and chef Bridget Charters planned and and editor-in-chief of the ezine which is sched- Rozanne Gold has shelved several books deals implemented a Reserve Trade Mission for the U.S. in order to create and run a satellite kitchen (at uled to launch February 3, 2014. The monthly

28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Potato Board and 30 international executive chefs Leslie Mackie, founder/co-owner of Macrina as collaborated with Callison on writing stories and research-and-development directors from Asia Bakery & Cafe, was the keynote speaker at the throughout the book. and Mexico at the Art Institute of Seattle School Women’s Business Exchange 35th anniversary WASHINGTON, D.C. of Culinary Arts. Restaurateur Thoa Nguyenwas dinner in September. WBE was founded in 1979 Bonnie Benwick featured as a chef-presenter, cooking Pan-Asian by Donna Nunn as a place for women to develop , dishes featuring potatoes. their leadership and business skills and to provide Deputy Food Editor, and The models of inspiring women business leaders. Joe Yonan, Food Editor, Nancy Lazara has joined Metropolitan Markets, Washington Post, won third a high-end grocery chain celebrating 40 years in Linda Burner Augustine co-authored The Crimson prize for “Best Newspaper Seattle. In her newly created position—Private La- Spoon cookbook featuring recipes from Jamie Food Coverage for Papers bel Strategist—she oversees Metropolitan Markets’ Callison, executive chef of the Washington State above 200,000 Circulation” own brand. Lazara’s background includes Starbucks University Hospitality Business Management from the Association of Bonnie Benwick Coffee and HEB in San Antonio, where she was School. Augustine tested and wrote the recipes, de- Food Journalists. instrumental in founding that Dames Chapter. signed for ease of use in the home kitchen, as well

In Memoriam Grande Dame Marcella Hazan Alma Lach Best known for her six cookbooks, which she wrote in Italian and were A true Dame of Distinction, the talented and treasured Alma translated into English by Victor, her husband of 57 years, Marcella Pol- Lach died on October 21, 2013. She was a founder of the Chi- lini Hazan taught generations of Americans how to create simple, fresh cago Chapter. Italian food. She died September 30, 2013, at her home in Longboat Born in Petersburg, Illinois, in Key, Fla., at age 89. 1914, and raised on a 600-acre farm Hazan was born in 1924 in Cesenatico in downstate in New Salem, Alma shared the Emilia-Romana region of Italy. She didn’t household duties with her sister, more intend to be a professional cooking teacher often than not cooking the family's or author; she graduated from the University meals. "There was a hen house and of Ferrara with a doctorate in natural sciences we had eggs and a cow for butter and and biology. But then she met Victor Hazan, buttermilk. I could make anything I who was born in Italy but raised in New York. wanted and did on a wood-burning They married in 1955 and moved to the U.S. cook stove,” she said. She even won a At that time in New York, Italian food was still prize for a dish in a 4-H contest. exotic, served in restaurants with straw-covered Majoring in Home Economics at the University of Chicago, she Chianti bottles and red-checked tablecloths. met her future husband, the historian Donald F. Lach, married, Hazan was a newlywed who did not speak English, transplanted to a and then when Donald was awarded a Guggenheim in 1949, country whose knowledge of her native cuisine was not much more than they went off to Paris with their small daughter Sandy. Suggesting spaghetti covered with what, to her, tasted like overly spiced ketchup. that perhaps there was more to cooking than pan gravy, Donald In 1969, she began teaching Italian cooking classes from her New York encouraged Alma to enroll in the formal three-year culinary degree City apartment that were as much about Italian culture and history as program at the Cordon Bleu. By 1956 she had clocked enough about food. She taught students that Italian cooking was really regional hours to be awarded a Grande Diplome. Also during those Paris cooking, from the handmade noodles and meat sauce of Bologna to the years, which were interrupted by occasional periods in the States, fish and risotto of Venice and the linguine and clams of Naples. she published A Child’s First Cookbook (1950) and three more chil- Those classes blossomed into a lifelong business of teaching. She and dren’s cookbooks for Campbell. And she was an early TV personal- Victor opened a cooking school in Bologna, then in Venice, where classes ity; creator, producer, and performer of the show “Let’s Cook” the took place in a 16th century palazzo with a custom-designed kitchen. first cooking show for children. Hazan’s 1973 cookbook, The Classic Italian Cookbook, led gourmands Everything she wrote--from those early forays into children's to draw comparisons between Hazan and another Grande Dame, Julia cookbooks, to her Sunday and Friday columns in the Chicago Child. The two women were longtime friends. Sun Times (where she served as the food editor from 1957 to In 2000, Hazan was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime 1965), to her frequent local and national TV appearances and Achievement Award. “She was the first mother of Italian cooking in the monthly newsletter Alma's Almanac--led to Cooking a la America,” said Lidia Bastianich, the New York restaurateur and televi- Cordon Bleu, (1970), and, ultimately, to her monumental Hows sion cooking personality. and Whys of French Cooking (1974), the first cookbook to be In 2004, Hazan wrote, “Simple doesn’t mean easy. I can describe published by the University of Chicago Press. simple cooking thus: Cooking that is stripped all the way down to Since 1985 she has been traveling, developing, and testing reci- those procedures and those ingredients indispensable in enunciating the pes for the Hows and Whys of Chinese Cooking and developing the sincere flavor intentions of a dish.” art of electronically scanning examples of Asian food carving and Hazan embraced simplicity, precision and balance in her cooking. She garnishing. During her long and impressive career, Alma Lach abhorred the overuse of garlic in much of what passed for Italian food in has been named a Chevalier du Tastevin in Dijon, and she has the United States, and would not suffer fools afraid of salt or the effort garnered many other awards and honors, but her membership it took to find quality ingredients. in Les Dames since 1982 remained one of her ongoing loyalties. The family took her ashes to a final resting place in her beloved village She was and will always be thought of as a professional’s profes- of Cesenatico. --CiCi Williamson sional, a mentor and friend. She will be missed. --Joan Reardon

WINTER Quarterly 2014 29 The Burma Road to Flavor GLOBAL

By Gail Forman CULINARY (Washington, D.C.) Burmese cooking is among the least well knownnited post cards and least appreciated Asian cuisines in the U States. On November 7, 36 Dames and guests dined at Burma Restaurant in Washington’s Chinatown neighborhood and learned about the culinary influences on, and particular history of, the country officially known as Myanmar that created this distinct cuisine. The cooking of China, India, and Thailand, as well as the ethnic diversity of the population, contributed to the Burmese kitchen. John Tinpe, co-owner of the restaurant with his mother, Jane, was a charismatic guide to the unusual flavors and variety of dishes that make up Burmese cuisine. Diners experienced the “national dish,” Mohinga, a fish soup usually eaten for breakfast, and the slightly bitter green-tea-leaf salad, Lahpet Thoke, a dish unique to Burma. Made of imported, fermented green-tea leaves combined with cabbage and fried pulses, it’s one of the many salads (including ginger, green papaya, and noodle) that make a Burmese meal so delightful. Vegetable Fritters, Pork with Pickled Mango, and Chicken with Sour Cabbage rounded out the meal, which concluded with a dessert trio of Coconut-Semolina Cake, Sago Pudding (cooked palm-stem “pearls”), and ice cream. We all went away excited about being introduced to unique dishes and new flavors. LEDI Ad 2013-Final 8/29/13 12:15 PM Page 1

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Deadlines 2014 Spring issue - January 15, 2014 | 2014 summer issue - April 15, 2014 2014 FALL issue - August 4, 2014 | 2015 WINTER ISSUE – November 7, 2014 Photography/Images Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED. Member Milestones LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, to appear in print. You may email a quality headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted. (Cookbook covers are accepted for the LDEI website.) Email your Member Milestone and photo to MM Editor, Hayley Matson-Mathes at [email protected] by the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section. Chapter News CHAPTER XX (By, the submitter's name, office or title, if any). Each Chapter may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may include photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after this date may appear in the following issue. E-Newsletter This bi-monthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an email contact, date, time, cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “e-news” email. Respond to Waldorf Salad with Helen Roberts at [email protected]. California Figs

POSTCARD VIEWS OF THE GLOBAL CULINARY INITIATIVE If your chapter is involved with culinary programs and community activities that cross cultural barriers and exemplify the spirit of the Global Culinary Initiative, send a 200-word description of your event with photos. WE BeLOnG (page 21) features excerpts of insightful, relevant content from Dame’s personal blogs or chapter websites. Be a guest blogger and tell us what’s on your mind! Send inquiries to [email protected] or [email protected]. Excellent source of Dietary Fiber Fat, Cholesterol and Sodium Free Upcoming • Winners of the 2013 Legacy Awards For delicious recipes and more information visit: in the share their experiences • The LDEI Board convenes in Miami www.californiafigs.com spring • Update on the Global Culinary Initiative issue • Introducing the 2014 Board Find us on Facebook

WINTER Quarterly 2014 31 Atlanta PREsorted Austin First Class Birmingham u s Postage Boston P.O. Box 4961 paid British Columbia, Canada Louisville, KY 40204 Charleston Louisville KY Chicago Permit #1051 Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America London, England Los Angeles/Orange County Miami Minneapolis/St. Paul Monterey Bay Area New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle St. Louis Washington, DC

Win $500 or $1000! enter ldei’s updated

m.f.k. fisher award contest

Deadline In 2012, more than 80 women entered LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing. Until now, the awards were in one general 3.31 category with a first, second, and third place award presented biennially in even-numbered years. 2014 In July, the LDEI Board made the competition a yearly contest with three major category winners: 1. Culinary Books 2. Print media (magazine and newspaper food stories) 3. Internet-based food articles or blogs Each category winner will receive $500. The overall winner will receive an additional $500 to total $1000 plus a trip to Boston to receive her award at the LDEI Annual Conference on Saturday, November 1, 2014, at the Royal Sonesta Hotel Boston, Cambridge Mass. In a further advancement, entries may now be submitted online to LDEI. The fee per entry is $25, and entries are due by March 31, 2014. For more information, go to www.ldei.org or send an email to [email protected].