www.cossma.com Contents 3 Editorial

࡯ NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles

࡯ FOCUS Sun Care 10 a Interview with Uli Osterwalder, BASF: Latest trends in UV-protection 14 Dirk Lenz, DSM: Self-tanners – Where are we heading? 10 I Some of 16 Jean-Marc Murer, AkzoNobel: the most interesting Sun care sprays – sun care trends Formulating for the European market 18 Nica Lewis, Mintel: International launches

࡯ MARKETING What 14 I 20 a Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics: does the self-tan- Trends Presentations – ning market hold Today’s trends as future pointers in store for us? 24 Star of the Month: Natural cosmetics in aerosols – Air as propellant

࡯ PRODUCTION 26 a Soheila Anzali et al., Merck: Mature skin – “Integrated” molecular modelling 28 Cosmopack review: New exciting developments 30 a Cosmetics containers: Optimised design and more 32 Akemi Uchida, Asahi Kasei Fibers: Japan – The boom in facial masks 34 Packaging News 26 I The first tailor-made cyclical ࡯ peptide for effective SERVICES anti-ageing products 6 Download List 36 Essential Oils: Price List 38 Formulations: Natural cosmetics 40 Books 41 Events Diary 42 Suppliers’ Guide 47 International B2B Exchange 30 I A fresh 48 Company Index look at cosmetics 48 Advertisers’ Index containers of 49 Masthead Page all types 50 Preview

a Leading articles Front cover photo: Decléor www.cossma.com

IDEAS START HERE In our industry, the one thing we all know is that things change. We must constantly meet unexpected challenges. Explore unfamiliar ways of doing things. Approach business opportunities with open minds and optimism. As a leader on the front line of the personal care industry for over 100 years, we offer not only innovative, effective ingredients – we deliver unique perspectives on emerging trends. In the last three years alone, Inolex has brought to market the revolutionary preservative-free system, Spectrastat ™, and the world’s first all natural cationic material, Emulsense ™. With a relentless commitment to creating the best solutions possible, our high performance products have been developed to help people look and feel better – more satisfied, with a unique sense of confidence. Change is here. At Inolex, we’re ready.

NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION innovating possibility ™ AFpeetn Sun presenting BASF B S EProa aeIgeinsErp 75 Ludwigshafen 67056 Europe Ingredients Care Personal SE ASF www.cossma.com usre iuao h noainto o formulators for tool www.basf.com/sunscreen-simulator innovation The – Simulator Sunscreen Tinosorb ol ls Vfitrprflo–Uvinul – portfolio filter UV class World ® qa–NwU le ehooyfrtewtrphase water the for technology filter UV New – Aqua S Care : ® n Tinosorband ® brands Germany

® = Registered trademark of BASF group SERVICES DOWNLOADS www.cossma.com

Free Downloads for Subscribers www.cossma.com/download

Click through our Web TV clips: www.cossma.com/tv COSSMA Download Tip Background Information: Emulsifiers: A cationic revolution for natural cosmetics Although there is a multitude of emulsifiers available to the personal care pro- duct formulator, when it comes to the creation of truly natural products the choice is limited. Emulsense is the first cationic material that is entirely non-petro- chemical and produced from 100% renewable resources. It also complies with the latest labelling requirements from different organisa- Dr. Rüdiger Mittendorf, Vice Chairman of the Board at tions. The product range also includes Emulsense HC, a Sebapharma, presents the sucessful middle-sized cationic agent for natural hair care, and Emulsense SC, a company. He sums up the most important achiev- novel emulsifying and sensory system for natural skin ments in the last 10 years, for example facial care products based on micro emulsions. care, as Martina Heldermann of Inolex points out in her article. COSSMA subscribers have access to product fact sheets for the Emulsense range. They can also download sample formulations using the ingredients presented.

For hair care, the emulsifier can be used as the sole emulsifier and hair conditioning ingredient photo: Wellaflax photo:

Jean-Louis Mathiez, CEO of Cinqpats points out inno- Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA vative applicator solutions. He sees a lot of develop- web site we post lots of additional information ment in the high-tech part of the market, for example elated to the topics covered in the magazine. electronic devices in applicators. DOWNLOAD You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items The exclusive service for to extend your knowledge and understanding: our subscribers: more information on the ingredients and www.cossma.com/download At finished products that we cover, market data and you will find additional information that you can download. statistics, supplier listings, literature references, Your access codes for June: scientific articles, product formulations and useful User name: cossma6 base formulations. Take a look right now, at Password: sun www.cossma.com/downloads

2. COSSMA VIP Summit: Visions for the future Visions for the future of the COSSMA-VIP-Summit participants include further developments in nan- otechnology, cream formulations without water, Top-Downloads for June colour cosmetics without colour pigments or the iden- • tification of active molecules in natural ingredient Product Information: blends. Regulation and legislation can also be Product Fact Sheet snap-8 (Lipotec) a driver for innovation. • Scientific Information: MPC™ – The ultimate topically applied dermal restructuring active (CLR) • Literature References: Active oils in natural emulsions (E.G. Ölmühle & Naturstoff- produkte GmbH) • Market Data: Andy Gatesy , Chairman and CEO, and Dorien Bianco , Personal Care Market China Marketing Manager, at Toly explain how the company (Intergate Consulting) is expanding its presence in China, India and South • Formulations: Corea.

Water Resistant Macara (Greentech) Fotalia.de Sorohin Nikolai photo:

6 COSSMA 6I2010 www.cossma.com – PROMOTION –

Clariant: Taking Care of all Your Needs DSM: TILAMAR ® – most innovative polymers

Sonja Gehm , Global Marketing Manager for Consumer Care and Anne Timm , Head BS Personal Care Europe at Clariant are explaining Clariant’s latest launches during In-Cosmetics. The company is launching its Sun Care Concept offering easy-top-rocess and time-saving formu- Lars Tacke , Senior Global Business Manager Hair Care at lations, and UV performance-boosting raw materials for DSM , presents the company’s latest launch, the TILAMAR ® sunscreen formulations. The “integrated preservation range for hair styling, conditioning and shine . The range is concept” are solutions to preserve and viscosify cosmet- consisting of TILA MAR ® Quat 640, TILA MAR ® Quat 2240, ® ® ® ics formulations with added cost effective and “green” TILA MAR OP 40, TILA MAR Quat 740 and TILA MAR Fix A1000 . DSM Nutritional Products set new standards in hair focused benefits. Velsan SC is a 100% natural, synergistic care with the introduction of TILAMAR ®. DSM has more than aid and a new thickening agent. Aristoflex TAC is a new 50 years experience and success in material science poly- water-in-silicone/water-in-oil emulsifier. SilCare Silicone mer technology. This knowledge is crucial to apply polymer WSI are new preservative blends, preservative efficacy technology to novel applications in the hair care industry boosters and rheology modifiers to serve as alternatives and create an innovative portfolio of TILAMAR ® hair care that preserve, and provide thickening and other aesthetic polymers. DSM’s strong active ingredients, application sup- benefits in difficult-to-achieve low pH formulations. port and knowledge of consumer needs and trends ensure hair care manufacturers to create successful products. To learn more on the latest innovations, To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at check the Web-TV clip at www.cossma.com/clariant www.cossma.com/dsm

ROVI Cosmetics: X-Rite Europe: Colour quality testing of dry + 2 new actives as part of the Cellular Actives™ range wet samples without contact

Lucie Matuskova , Application Support Manager at X-Rite Europe pres- ents the VS450 spectral photometer for testing and ensuring the colour quality of cosmetics products. The new instrument offers a way to guar- Dirk Teichmüller , President and CEO at ROVI Cosmetics antee the colour quality by testing dry and wet samples without con- presents the two innovative new actives the company intro- tact . The VS450 eliminates the need for the usual laboratory hand or duces as part of its Cellular Actives™ range. Vivendin™ is bench instruments where the measurement aperture of the spectral pho- tometer was required to lie directly on the sample. The new instrument proven to activate the longevity genes (Sirtuins) of the epi- also allows sample measurements to be taken without any additional ® dermal cells using INEOCELL Technology – a cell targeted equipment such as petri dishes or cuvettes. Because the sample can be delivery mechanism. Epiprotectyl ® UV, a novel delivery sys- accurately evaluated at a distance of about 38 mm it is possible to take tem for UV-protection of the hair offers a significantly higher readings from cosmetics and other wet or powdery substrates. Using this UV- and radical protection compared to plain filters. The spectral photometer, numerical data from cosmetics products can be ® included in product specification variables during manufacture, such as hydrophilic carrier medium of Epiprotectyl UV facilitates a certain formulation, temperature or mixing time. The results obtained formulating tremendously. by the 2 kilogram, portable device can be uploaded directly to a PC for analysis. To take readings from irregular shapes or cumbersome objects To learn more on the latest innovations, the device can be moved from a horizontal to a vertical position. check the Web-TV clip at To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at www.cossma.com/rovi www.cossma.com/x-rite www.cossma.com MARKETS + PROFILES NEWS

Calvin Klein, Nautica , and BCBG brands. Wellness in focus BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH I On October 16th Stölzle Glass I The Stölzle and 17th 2010 there will be something to celebrate – the Glass Group has opened two BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, Europe’s No. 1 autumn trade new sales offices – one in France fair for professional beauticians, takes place for the 25th and one in the USA. The sales time! This anniversary event includes many attractive new manager of the French subsidia- features. With the change of venue to the Messe München ry, which is also responsible for

International exhibition centre in Riem, on the outskirts of Fotolia.de photos: Spain, is Franck Legrand, former Munich, the exhibition will be considerably bigger and with The new Wellness themed area will be un- sales and development director three additional themed zones: Wellness & Spa, Medical missable, with a Wellness Congress and the at Bormioli Rocco . Aesthetics an d Natural Cosmetic s. Wellnes & Spa trade exhibition The new vice-president for The new Wellness & Spa area in Hall C3 targets a totally new client sector with new exhibitors at BEAUTY sales and marketing in the USA FORUM MUNICH 2010 and close collaboration with market leaders in this business. These include is Xavier Adnet. From 1998 he hoteliers, operators of wellness hotels, and managers of hotel spas and day spas. ran the London office of SGD The Wellness & Spa exhibition area focuses on the total relaxation and recuperation of body, mind and and since 2001 has looked after soul, through, for example, a healthy lifestyle, cosmetics and massage, nutrition, new medical processes the US market for Bormioli and therapies. For exhibitors there are attractive package deals and for first-time exhibitors a special offer Rocco . of 25 percent off the price of the exhibition area that is booked. The information booklet is available online (see Internet button). Symrise I Anne Cabotin (43) At the first Wellness Hotel Congress, being held during the event, hosted by Dagmar Rizzato, answers will who has for several years been be provided to important questions regarding the spa business. The full programme can be viewed from with Symrise as international key May 2010 at www.beauty-fairs.de. account manager for clients in The congress is being run in collaboration with Top Hotel, Rizzato Spa Consulting, spa concept and the fine perfumery field, has now Wellness Hotels Deutschland GmbH. been appointed Global Account In addition to the “Wellness Aphrodite” gala event and award there will also be, at the Wellness Hotel Director for L´Oréal . She will Congress and Wellness & Spa exhibition area, a Health and Fitness Congress run in collaboration with report to Holger Winkel, regional Aktiv Consult Jörg Hidding and body LIFE, plus a reception exclusively for hoteliers as part of this president of the Scent & Care themed special programme. EAME department. Additional information can be found on the Internet, www.cossma.com/download.de – PROMOTION – Merck: So much choice at In-Cosmetic

Dr. Matthias Lergenmüller , Senior Director Cosmetic Robert Siegfried , Head of Innovation at Merck Pigments at Merck KGaA Darmstadt explains how to KgaA Darmstadt points out how to breathe life into discover new ways being ahead of competition by using your brand using Merck’s persuasive RonaCare ® innovative RonaFlair TM functional fillers and novel antiaging approach , which comprises superior Xirona ® and Timiron ® effect pigments . They help crea- Eusolex ® sun protection concepts, topped off by ting cosmetic products with unique sensory and visual extraordinary natural ingredients and a soon to properties. Dr. Lergenmüller also presents the latest come exceptional cyclic peptide active. news in color trends for the Spring/Summer 2011 season which were demonstrated by make-up artist Luis Huber live at the In-Cosmetics booth no. D14 .

To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at www.cossma.com/merck SERVICES FORMULATIONS www.cossma.com DOWNLOAD

The exclusive service for our subscribers: At www.cossma.com/download Natural you will find additional information that you can download. Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 cosmetics Password: sun

A natural cosmetic is still the word on everyone’s lips, and so it’s no wonder that there is still a search for new types of natural formulation. We have gathered together here a total of 31 formu- lations from 24 suppliers in order to bring you as wide and varied a selection as possible. As always you can download any of the formulations free of charge from our web site* at www.cossma.com/download.

ecause natural cosmetics are increasingly focussing on the pampering aspects of cosmetics formulations, products such as Luxurious Body B Wash from Croda, Gracefully Green Face Cream w/o Preservatives from Cognis, Natural velvet compact eyeshadow from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies and Natural Velveting Bar from Zschimmer & Schwarz should be of particular In July/August we interest. will be looking at hair care formulations, and And there is a good selection of formulations for natural baby care, for example in September it will be the turn of body care products. Natural Repair & Protect Nappy Cream from Croda or, as an alternative, Natural All of the information published here has been carefully assembled, Baby Diaper Care from Dr. Straetmans . however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their For companies in the sun care business Soothing Balm for Suntired Skin from safety or accuracy. Greentech and Natural Sunscreen from Kobo Products are included in the selection. *Your access codes an be found on the Internet button on this page

Dr. Straetmans GmbH Biopharmacopae Design Contact: Dr. Fernando Ibarra Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd. International Inc. Merkurring 60-62 Contact: Cowick Hall, Snaith Contact: 350 Franquet, Door 50 22143 Hamburg, Germany Goole DN14 9AA, Great Britain G1P 4P3, Quebec, Kanada www.dr-straetmans.de www.croda.com/europe/pc www.biopharmacopae.com [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Profile: Dr. Straetmans develops alternative Profile: Croda is one of the world’s leading Profile: Biopharmacopae is specialized in the concepts for natural cosmetics. Most products suppliers of speciality raw materials, combining discovery and development of science-based in- are from natural, sustainable resources. Our functionality with a natural positioning to pro- novative plant-derived active ingredients and raw materials and technical support open ways vide winning ingredients for the personal care products for the cosmeceutical and nutraceuti- to manufacture state of the art cosmetics industry. With a wide and diverse product cal markets. The company owns a unique tech- according to the latest trends in the market. range, Croda offers innovation supported by nology platform, eXcelerate™, that overcomes Formulas: – Natural Baby Cream Calendula proven efficacy testing across all personal the traditional technical challenges associated – Natural Baby Lotion Calendula care market sectors. with the discovery of health products derived – Natural Baby Diaper Care Formulas: – Luxurious Body Wash from plants. – QUAT Free Hair Conditioner Formula: – Sereniks Calming and Soothing – Natural Eye Gel Formula – Natural Repair & Protect Nappy Cream

Kemiderm KMF Nanolipo hGH Liposomal verkapselter NMF Liposomal verkapseltes Protein gegen Haarausfall Nano Claire GY Maqui Berry Liposomal verkapseltes Protein – Neue Super Berry mit höchstem Wirkstoff für Anti Aging und bisher gemessenem Anti Akne Produkte. anti-oxidativem Potential

Wirk- und Rohstoffe für innovative Körper-, Gesichts-, Haarpflege und Nahrungsergänzungsmittel

mani GmbH Erich-Müller-Straße 19a . D-40597 Düsseldorf Tel. (0211) 5072509 . Fax (0211) 5072511 www.mani-gmbh.com . [email protected] www.cossma.com FORMULATIONS SERVICES

Soothing Balm for Suntired skin Greentech

Matte Blush Hallstar Merck KG aA Contact: Performance & Life Science ROSACEA Relief and Chemicals, Cosmetics & Food Anti Aging Cream Frankfurter Str. 250, IBR Ltd 64293 Darmstadt, Germany www.merck4cosmetics.com Argan Lip Balm Profile: When beauty means passion, Merck IMPAG GmbH ingredients are your choice. Besides active in- gredients, organic and inorganic UV filters as All Natural Baby Lotion well as insect repellents we supply a wide range Inolex of speciality fillers, effect pigments for decora- tive cosmetic and packaging to give your brand uniqueness. Natural Sunscreen Formulas: – Natural Hand and Nail Lotion Kobo Products Inc – Natural After Sun Gel – Natural Sun Screen W/O Organic purifying face cream Laboratoires PROD’HYG /Lettic

Natural Lip Balm Protameen Chemicals Inc. OW Cream Ecocert SFO Jojoba Oil Clariant Day Cream SACI-CFPA Gracefully Green Face Cream w/o Preservatives Natural velvet compact eyeshadow Cognis Sensient Cosmetic Technologies

All Natural Lotion with Foundation Cream SPF 15 Jojoba Illuminate Symrise Desert Whale Jojoba Company Lift, Contour Eye Cream By Nature Leave-In Conditioner Unifect Ltd Dow Corning Antioxidant Mixed Berries and Natural Baby Cream Calendula Yogurt Body Butter Dr. Straetmans GmbH Zenitech

Natural O/W Body Butter Natural Velveting Bar Evonik Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co KG photo: Sanoflere photo: SERVICES BOOK SERVICE www.cossma.com

Book Shop Place your order today, and be sure to keep yourself fully up to date!

Current technical books – selected for you by the COSSMA editori- www.cossma.com/shop al team. Further information on the items listed, as well as lots more www.beauty-profi-shop.com interesting titles, can be found in the beauty professional’s bookshop Phone +49 (0) 721 165-668 at www.beauty-profi-shop.com. Order your personal copies today! [email protected]

Trüeb, Ralph M.; Tobin, Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg ECV Desmond J. (Editors) Lips of Luxury Blue List Aging Hair In the French/English This reference work International experts book Lèvres de Luxe for cosmetic ingredi- discuss current diag- or Lips of Luxury ents, with CD-ROM, nostic concepts and Jean-Marie Martin- lists 8,000 cosmetic also put forward so- Hattemberg de- ingredients, includ- New lutions for the treat- scribes the fascinat- ing additives. ment, as well as the ing and multifacetted history of lipstick 880 pages, with prevention, of ageing hair. 270 pages, – from its origins to the present day. CD-ROM, ? 168.00 92 illustrations, of which 80 in colour, 168 pages, hard bound, ? 29.80 hard bound, ? 149.75 Cheryl M. Burgess Tharwat F. Tadros Cosmetic Dermatology Colloids in Cosmetics and Kai Bester Personal Care Compounds This book explains Personal Care cosmetic treatments in the Environment This volume de- carried out by derma- scribes the role of This book covers in tologists and how the colloids in cosmetics detail which toxic symptoms of skin age- ing can be treated. New and personal care, chemicals are re- highlighting the im- sponsible for harm- 170 pages, 35 illustra- portance of funda- ing the environment. tions, 33 charts mental research in 244 pages, hard and tables, ? 96.25 practical applica- bound, ? 129.00 tions. 321 pages, 156 illustrations, Fiedler ? 61 tables, hard bound, 155.00 Encyclopaedia of Ikhlas A. Khan, Ehab A. Charles Sell Excipients Abourashed Understanding This 2-volume ency- Common Natural fragrance Chemistry clopaedia contains Ingredients This book covers the more than 12,900 Leung’s Encyclopae- basics of organic entries covering ad- dia of Common Natur- chemistry as appli- ditives, as well as a al Ingredients provides cable to the fra- list of the manufac- New an accurate reference grance business. turers. source on natural 417 pages, hard 2 volumes, ? products. ? 109.00 bound, ? 110.00 1,600 pages, hard bound, 350.00

Tharwat F. Tadros Barbara B. Gilchrest, Emulsion Science and Jean Krutmann Technology Johann W. Wiechers, PhD Skin Aging Skin Delivery Systems This essential guide This comprehensive for those involved in In this handbook en- technical book con- formulations technol- titled “Science and tains numerous ex- ogy covers a wealth Application of Skin pert contributions New of topics from nano- Delivery Systems” providing an exten- particle synthesis expert contributions sive overview of cur- through nanocom- update the reader on rent research into posites to cosmetic the latest findings in skin ageing. emulsions. 326 pages, 159 illustrations, this field. 216 pages, 72 illustrations, 24 tables, 32 tables, hard bound, ? 119.00 511 pages, hard bound, ? 239.00 hard bound, ? 106.95

40 COSSMA 6I2010 www.cossma.com EVENTS SERVICES

Fairs, conferences and seminars 20102010 When? What? Where? Who?

09.–10.06.2010 Colipa Vienna, Colipa General Assembly Austria www.colipa.eu 09.–10.06.2010 Packaging Schwäbisch Hall, Packaging Valley Germany e.V. Valley Days Germany [email protected], www.packaging-valley-days.com 10.06.2010 FiFi Awards New York, Fragrance Foundation USA [email protected], www.fragrance.org 17.06.2010 GNPD Forum Paris, Mintel GNPD France [email protected], www.gnpd.com 22.–23.06.2010 Microbiota Paris, Gate2Tech France www.microbiota.eu 22.–23.06.2010 Probiotech Paris, Gate2Tech France www.probiotech.eu 24.–25.06.2010 MakeUp in Paris Paris, Beauteam France [email protected], www.makeup-in-paris.com 01.07.2010 Seminar: EU- Frankfurt a.M., Forum Institut für Management Kosmetik-Verordnung Germany www.forum-institut.de 18.–20.07.2010 Cosmoprof Las Vegas, SoGeCos S.p.a. North America USA [email protected], www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com 15.–19.08.2010 Extracts New York, NYIGF USA www.nyigf.com 25.–26.08.2010 Deutscher Berlin, Euroforum Deutschland Kosmetik-Kongress Germany www.euroforum.de/kosmetik-kongress 08.–09.09.2010 Fresenius Kosmetika- Mainz, Die Akademie Fresenius Tagung Germany [email protected], www.akademie-fresenius.de. 14.–15.09.2010 Natural Cosmetics Nuremberg, NürnbergMesse GmbH Conference Germany www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de 14.–15.09.2010 Vortragsveranstaltung: Mannheim, Sepawa e.V. Sensorik Germany www.sepawa.com 18.–19.09.2010 BEAUTY FORUM & Spa Warsaw, Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland [email protected], www.beauty-fairs.com.pl

20.–23.09.2010 IFSCC Congress Buenos Aires, SEQC Argentina [email protected], www.ifscc2010.com 21.–23.09.2010 International Rome, AIA Aerosol Congress Italy [email protected], www.aerosolrome.it 23.–25.09.2010 FA!R2010 Dortmund, Westfalenhallen Dortmund GmbH Germany www.westfalenhallen.de 25.–26.09.2010 BEAUTY FORUM AUSTRIA 2010 Salzburg, Health and Beauty Marketing Ges.m.b.H. Austria [email protected], www.beauty-fairs.at

28.–30.09.2010 Fachpack Nuremberg, NürnbergMesse GmbH Germany www.fachpack.de 28.–30.09.2010 HBA Global Expo New York, CMP Information (CMPi) USA [email protected], www.hbaexpo.com 02.–04.10.2010 Cosmesur Buenos Aires, Indexport Messe Frankfurt Beautyworld Argentina [email protected], www.cosmesur.com.ar 03.–05.10.2010 Beautyworld Mumbai, Messe Frankfurt India India India [email protected] www.messefrankfurtindia.in 04.–06.10.2010 PXA New York, PXA France USA [email protected], www.perfumexamerica.com 13.–15.10.2010 SEPAWA Kongress Fulda, SEPAWA Germany [email protected], www.sepawa.com 16.–17.10.2010 BEAUTY FORUM MÜNCHEN Munich, Health and Beauty Trade Fairs GmbH, Arndt Nickel Germany [email protected], www.beauty-fairs.de

20.–22.10.2010 Luxe Pack Monte Carlo, Idice SAS Monaco Monaco [email protected], www.luxepack.com 25.–27.10.2010 Beautyworld Osaka, Mesago Messe Frankfurt Japan West Japan www.beautyworldjapan.com/west/en 02.–04.11.2010 In-Cosmetics Asia Bangkok, Reed Exhibitions Thailand www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

COSSMA 6I2010 41 www.cossma.com INTERNATIONAL B2B EXCHANGE SERVICES Go to

www.cossma.com/ b2bexchange

for more information B2B Exchange: Find your about suppliers and business partners of tomorrow today! their products COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new business contacts. All our business partners can use this "International B2B Exchange". Have a look at the entries below now and find your business partner of tomorrow today! Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange (a=NEW!)

Wish to export their products abalico Glory Nails Klapp Cosmetics GmbH D-69469 Weinheim, Germany D-34123 Kassel, Germany D- 37235 Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel Contact: Sven Dowiasch Contact: Fernando Duarte [email protected]; www.abalico.de [email protected] [email protected] Products: Cosmetic products www.glorynails-shop.com www.klapp-cosmetics.com for hand and nail Products: Cosmetic Products for Hands, Nails, Feet Products: Cosmetic products, wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB wish to export to: worldwide SPA collection series wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia Age Attraction Kosmetik GmbH D-85591 Vaterstetten/München, Germany Dr. GRANDEL GmbH Contact: Alexandra Kopold-Schütz D-86150 Augsburg, Germany NEOVITA COSMETICS [email protected] Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler www.age-attraction.de D-69256 Mauer, Germany [email protected] Products: MESO LASER Mesoporation & Impulse Contact: Karina Grimm www.grandel.de Laser + Meso-Ampullen + Wirkstoff- [email protected] kosmetik Products: Skin care products, Spa collection www.neovita.de wish to export to: EU + Middle East+ worldwide series Products: Premium Skin Care products for wish to export to: GB, PL, THAI, F, GUS professionals a ASTONISHING NAILS & SPA wish to export to: worldwide Beauty Factory /Internat. Beauty Part. Netherlands NL- 5503 LM Veldhoven, The Netherlands GERTRAUD GRUBER Contact: Jurrhiaan Vegers KOSMETIK GmbH & Co. Dr. med Christine Schrammek [email protected] D-83700 Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG Contact: Roland Schäfer www.beautyfactory.nl D-45127 Essen, Germany Products: professional nail products, hands & feet [email protected] Contact: Birgit Schmitz www.gertraudgruber.de wish to export to: worldwide [email protected] Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produkt- www.schrammek.de und Anwendungskonzept auf Natur- Beauty Line Consulting Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings basis der 1. Beautyfarm Europas. D-76698 Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA Contact: Janos Stegena wish to export to: B, CH, E, GB, GUS, L, NL, PL, [email protected] ROK www.belico.de Products: skin and body Care products, STEHR COSMETICS AG private label, bulk Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH CH-6004 Luzern, Switzerland wish to export to: worldwide D-78229 Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Rolf Stehr Contact : Ms. Renate Karner [email protected] beauty lumis GmbH www.stehrcosmetics.ch D- 80995 München, Germany [email protected] www.praxis-cosmetic.de Products: organic skin care products; Permanent Contact: Angela Frommer Make-up system; Make-up Products: Skin and Body Care [email protected] wish to export to: worldwide www.byonik.net Cosmetics, Ampoules, Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and Decorative cosmetics cosmetic products wish to export to: EU + worldwide wish to export to: worldwide TANA Cosmetics D-33602 Bielefeld, Germany DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH Ionto-comed GmbH Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG D-38106 Braunschweig, Germany D-76344 Eggenstein, Germany Mr. Ronald Fortmann Contact: Carola Schmerbach Contact: Mrs. Annett Kühl [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.tana-cosmetics.com www.BELTER.de www.ionto.com Products: Colour cosmetics, Products: skin and body care cosmetics Products: skincare, podiatry, medical equipment Cosmetic products for self tanning wish to export to: worldwide wish to export to: worldwide wish to export to: A, P, CZ, S, GB, E

COSSMA 6I2010 47 www.cossma.com Advertisers’ Company Index Index

Aktiv Consult Euromonitor MWV Asahi Kasei Fibers Deutschland GmbH www.aktiv-consult.de p. 8 www.euromonitor.com p. 20 www.meadwestvaco.com p. 28 ww.asahi-kasei.co.jp p. 39 AkzoNobel Evonik Natrue BASF SE www.akzonobel.com pp. 3, 16 www.evonik.com/personal-care p. 38 www.natrue.org p. 8 www.personal-care.basf.com p. 5 Alban Muller Facebook Natura S. Black GmbH www.albanmuller.com p. 8 www.facebook.com p. 20 www.natura.com p.20 www.sblack.com p. 25 Aldi Flickr No More Tan Lines Clariant International Ltd. www.aldi.com p. 20 www.flickr.com p.20 www.no-more-tan-lines.com p. 18 www.clariant-personalcare.com p. 7 Alpla Frost & Sullivan Dermatest GmbH www.alpla.com p. 30 www.frost.com p. 20 Organic Monitor www.dermatest.de p. 12 Anisa Fusion Brands www.organicmonitor.com p. 20 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. www.anisa.com p. 8 www.fusionbrandsinc.com p. 8 P&G www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com pp. 7, 13, 52 Anne Semonin Future-Touch www.pg.com p. 20 Fiberstar, Inc. www.annesemonin.com p. 20 www.future-touch.com p. 20 Perry Ellis www.imulsi-fi.com p. 35 Aptar Gary Farn www.perryellis.com p. 8 Grafe Advanced Polymers GmbH www.aptargroup.com p.28 www.garyfarn.com p. 8 Primark www.grafe.com p. 23 Art & Fragrance Geka www.primark.co.uk p. 20 www.art-fragrance.com p.8 www.geka-world.com p. 28 Greentech S.A. Protameen Chemicals www.greentech.fr p.15 Asahi Kasei Gerresheimer www.protameen.com p. 38 www.asahi-kasei.co.jp pp. 20, 32 www.gerresheimer.com p. 8 Impag Import GmbH Puig Prestige Aveeno Givaudan www.impag.de p.19 www.aveeno.com p. 20 www.givaudan.com p. 8 www.puig.com p. 8 Inolex Chemical Company BASF Google Insights Rebhan www.inolex.com p. 2 www.basf.com pp. 3, 10 www.google.com/insights p. 20 www.rebhan-group.com p. 28 Paul Kaders GmbH BDA Greentech Rizzato Spa Consulting www.kaders.de p. 34 www.bda-online.de p. 8 www.greentech.net p.38 www.spa-consulting.com p. 8 Kraeber GmbH & Co BEAUTY FORUM Guerlain SACI-CFPA www.kraeber.de p. 31 www.beauty-forum.com p. 8 www.guerlain.com p. 8 www.saci-cfpa.com p. 38 Kugler GmbH Being Hallstar Seidel Living Design www.kugler-ger.com p. 11 www.being.fr p. 20 www.hallstar.com p. 38 www.seidel.de p. 30 Kyowa Hakko Europe GmbH Biopharmacopae Design HCT Sensient Cosmetic www.kyowa.eu/daiichi p. 17 www.biopharmacopae.com p. 38 www.hctpackaging.com p.30 www.sensient-tech.com p. 38 Laboratoires Sérobiologiques body LIFE IBR SGD www.laboratoires–serobiologiques.comp. 27 www.bodylife.com p. 8 www.ibrweb.com p. 38 www.sgdgroup.com p. 8 Sigmund Lindner GmbH Bomo Trendline Icon Beauty www.sigmund-lindner.com p. 24 www.bomo-trendline.de p. 28 www.iconbeauty.net p. 8 Slideshare www.slideshare.net p. 20 Mani GmbH Bormioli Rocco Impag www.mani-gmbh.com p. 38 www.bormioliroccopackaging.com p.8 www.impag.de pp. 8, 38 spa concept www.spa-concept.com p. 8 Merck KG aA Bottega Verde In-Cosmetics www.merck4cosmetics.com p. 9 www.bottegaverde.com p. 18 www.in-cosmetics.com p. 20 Stacy Consulting Petro-Canada America Puretol Burt’s Bees Inolex www.richardstacy.com p. 20 www.burtsbees.com p. 20 www.inolex.com p. 38 Lubricants.petro-canada.ca/puretol p. 29 Stölzle Glass Calvin Klein Kautex Industrial Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH www.stoelzle.de p. 8 www.calvinklein.com p. 8 www.kautex.de p. 30 www.ROVIcosmetics.com p. 7 Symrise Carlin Group Key-Sun www.symrise.com pp. 6, 8, 38 Dr. Straetmans GmbH www.carlin-groupe.com p. 20 www.keysun.com.au p.18 www.dr-straetmans.de p. 33 The Body Shop Ciba Kiehl’s Trichema AG www.cibasc.com p. 10 www.kiehls.com p. 20 www.the-body-shop.com p. 20 www.lohn-hersteller.ch p. 8 Clariant KIV Verpackungen TK Maxx X-Rite Europe GmbH www.clariant.com p. 38 www.kiv-packaging.com p.28 www.tkmaxx.de p. 20 www.xrite.com p. 7 Clarins Kline Top Hotel www.clarins.com p. 20 www.klinegroup.com p. 20 www.tophotel.de p. 8 Cognis Kobo Products Tunap www.cognis.com p. 38 www.koboproductsinc.com p. 38 www.tunap.com p.24 Colipa Kolb Tunap www.colipa.com p. 16 www.kolb.ch p. 8 www.tunap.de p.24 Cosline L’Occitane Twitter www.cosline.de p. 18 www.loccitane.com p. 30 www.twitter.com p. 20 Cosmopack L’Oréal www.cosmoprof.com p. 28 www.loreal.com pp. 8, 20 Unifect Ltd www.unifect.co.uk p. 38 Cosmoprof Laboratoires PROD’HYG www.cosmoprof.com p. 28 www.prodhyg.com p. 38 Union for Ethical BioTrade Croda Chemicals LinkedIn www.ethicalbiotrade.org p. 20 www.croda.com p. 38 www.linkedin.com p. 20 Ute Ellmers Design Desert Whale Lush www.ellmers-design.de p. 30 www.desertwhale.com p. 38 www.lush.co.uk p. 20 Vodafone Deutschland Dow Corning LVMH www.vodafone.de p. 8 www.dowcorning.com p. 38 www.lvmh.com p. 8 Wellness-Hotels-Deutschland Dr. Straetmans Mama Mio www.w-h-d.de p. 8 www.dr-straetmans.de p. 38 www.mamamio.com p. 20 YouTube Dr.Hauschka Max Havelaar www.youtube.com p. 20 www.drhauschka.de p. 8 www.maxhavelaar.ch p. 20 YSL Drom Merck www.drom.com p. 8 www.merck4cosmetics.com pp. 26, 38 www.ysl.com p. 20 DSM Merry Hempsters Zenitech www.dsm.com pp. 3, 14 www.merryhempsters.com p. 18 www.zenitech.com p. 38 Ericsson Deutschland Mintel Zschimmer & Schwarz www.ericsson.com/de p. 8 www.mintel.com pp. 18, 20 www.zschimmer-schwarz.com p. 38

48 COSSMA 6I2010 www.cossma.com Masthead Page The You would prefer to read the German version? Team Fill in the form below and make sure you receive the language version of your choice!

Volume 11 ISSN 1439-7676

Published by Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Managing Director Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Jürgen Volpp Director Sales Cosmetics: Tobias Klumpp Phone: +49 721 165-138 E-mail: [email protected] Address Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148 Editorial Staff Legally responsible party: Max Barth Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: +49 721 165-169 E-mail: [email protected] Director Sales Cosmetics Tobias Klumpp Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, +49 721 165-138 Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: +49 721 165-144 E-mail: [email protected] Advertising Services: Andrea Bolz Phone: +49 721 165-210, Fax: +49 721 165-148 The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan. 2009. z I would like to receive the English Version Senior Editor Circulation Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Angelika Meiss Service Klaus Schuler z +49 721 165-169 Phone: +49 721 165-131, Fax: +49 721 165-148 I would like to receive the German Version Published: 12 times a year COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and z I would like to receive both language versions “Aerosol and Spray Report“ Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: of the print edition, please give me details of the Rates Germany: E 192; outside Germany: E 198. special combined subscription price Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in z I would like to be able to read both language versions advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrange- ment via a bank or post office is acceptable. online as pdf files at no extra charge. Advertising sales Dorothea Michaelis Design/ Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Please send the access details for the online archive +49 721 165-144 Production Ulrich Hanke Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany monthly to my e-mail address below Phone: +49 721 165-592 ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696

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Trend statement The sun care of the future

François Cottard, head of sun protec- tion. Using this system the concentration level of UV filters tion development laboratory, L’Oréal in the formulation can be reduced without causing any re- Group: When developing a sun protec- duction in the UV protection level. The Mexoryl filters and tion product it is important to be able to their synergies not only increase the efficacy levels but al- meet certain highly complex challenges so improve the cosmetic properties. Improved textures in order to achieve highly effective pro- and an increasing level of galenic formulation also improve tection and an innovative texture that the product’s performance. Formulations must appeal to meets a wide range of consumer require- the consumer with their sensory properties, ease of appli- ments. Innovation in sun protection also cation, freshness and lightness, and must be pleasant to François Cottard, means, however, developing a better use. Anyone developing new application forms must take L’Oréal Group understanding of the mechanisms of into account all of the consumer’s wishes – regardless of light protection. skin type, age or cultural habits – a spray with a light tex- Among the groundbreaking achievements of L’Oréal in re- ture, light sun milk formulations, or oils with a high SPF are lation to the problem of photostability are the photostabili- just some examples. sation of avobenzone by octocrylene, plus the develop- ment of totally new photostable UV filters such as the first photostable UVA filter Mexoryl SX and the likewise photo- stable Mexoryl XL with a notably wider UV absorption which was developed for synergistic combination with Mexoryl SX. All of these developments have contributed to various leg- islators becoming so highly aware that the standards set for UV protection, in particular UVA protection, have now been adapted to take into account this current state of the art. The very latest innovation is the Mexoplex system, which photo: L’Oréal photo: uses the synergy of Mexoryl SX and another UV filter in or- Mexoryl XS – a filter system with broad spectrum photostability der to strengthen photostability in the face of UVA radia- and photostable protection in the UVA and UVB ranges

Preview July/August Markets Ingredients The latest develop- 2010 ments in body care products photo: Duschdas photo: COSSMA 7-8/2010 Dove photo: New ingredients for body care published on August 5th Market survey photo: Toly photo:

Packaging Fully updated market survey Exciting airless of ingredients 50 COSSMA 6I2010

systems suppliers Melis, van Rolf photo: Pixelio.de E 512 8 0 www.cossma.com

COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING

Ingredients Current and future developments in sun protection

Marketing In-Cosmetics 2010: an outline of the most exciting marketing trends

Packaging Cosmetics containers look to the future

VIP des Monats

Soheila Anzali of Merck presents the first tailor-made cyclical anti-ageing peptide

6/2010 Focus: Sun care www.cossma.com