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Focus: Sun Care COS1501 Inolex 02 215X290mm 1/1 a 22.01.15 15:17 Seite 1 COS1501_00_Titel_GB_COS1402_01_Titel_GB 22.01.15 15:16 Seite 1 www.cossma.com E51280 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING Product development Global perspectives and new approaches to sun protection and tanning Marketing New study: Beauty salons – where next? Markets An up-to-date look at the Russian cosmetics market Legislation Lines of demarcation: The A to Z in product development VIP of the Month Uli Osterwalder of BASF looks at an easier way of devel - oping attractive solar protection products 1-2/2015 Focus: Sun care www.cossma.com COS1501_Inolex_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.01.15 15:17 Seite 1 www.cossma.com Advanced Ingredients for Sun Applications NEW! WetFilmTM - Compatibilizer and water-proofer for wet skin application LexFilm® Sun - Water-proofing agent; solubilizer for UV actives LexFilm® Spray - Water-proofing system for spray application Lexorez® 100 & 200 - Water-proofing film former LexSolvTM A - Superior solubilizer for UVA filters LexFeel® 7 - Light emollient; enhanced skin feel ideas start here www.inolex.com COS1501_03_Edi_GB_COS1409_03_Edi_GB 23.01.15 06:25 Seite 1 www.cossma.com EDITORIAL Lots going go! 15 years ago, with the first issue of the year, you had in your hand the very first. The magazine was in two language versions ... Do you remember? In the last one a half decades there has been a lot happening at COSSMA – and of course in trade magazines in general. Since 2004 you can receive COSSMA as the only trade magazine to offer addi- tional information, on line, about articles in Downloads the magazine itself. In Additional informations at 2007 we published www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00037 COSSMA in two lan- or scan the QR code now! guages: German and Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 an international Eng- Password: sun lish edition. Since PS: Our QR codes and our tablet-compatible E-paper take 2009 you have been you directly to TV clips, downloads, book tips and more able to see web-tv in- terviews with industry experts on our web site at www.cossma.com. This is where you can also find, in addition to our e-paper that allows you direct contact with authors and certain via which information channel. You can find this online companies, plus downloadable additional informa- questionnaire at www.cossma.com/survey. We really tion on selected COSSMA articles, the latest news look forward to your replies by the end of February, and as and events information, and of course our supplier a “thank you” for your support we will let you have a one data base at www.cossma.com/guide. year free online subscription to one of our trade maga- Since 2013 we have held our COSSMA Webinars zines. as another way of updating yourselve on markets, interesting actives, and more. COSSMA in Chinese appeared in 2014 and we have Yours now published 3 editions (see www.cossma.com/ china). It is backed by our Chinese partner the China Cosmetic Review, the only official Chinese trade Angelika Meiss publication for the cosmetics and detergents industry Senior editor, COSSMA supported by the China Federation of Commerce. Also since 2014 there is a Russian COSSMA at http://ru.cossma.com, too. If your company, or a distributor, is already in the Russian market then you can, at no cost, make use of our PR service. You sim- ply e-mail us your press releases in Russian, plus a photo of maximum 1 MB in size to angelika.meiss@ health-and-beauty.com. We would be pleased to hear from you about how Follow us on: you would like to see the information in COSSMA in the future. In our anonymous online reader question- www.linkedin.com/in/cossma www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine naire you can tell us all about your readership habits and preferences so that we can, in the future, be sure to supply the information that you need and of course www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin www.youtube.de/cossmatv COSSMA 1-2I2015 3 COS1501_04_Inhalt_GB_COS1409_04_Inhalt_GB 23.01.15 06:26 Seite 4 www.cossma.com Contents 3 Editorial ࡯ NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles ࡯ FOCUS Sun care 10 a Nicole Tyrimou, Euromonitor: Sun care enters a new era 12 a Uli Osterwalder, Matthias Hloucha, BASF: How to get Sun care made easy 14 I 14 Caroline Ploton, DSM Nutritional Products: consumers to use Unsung heroes of skin protection – Sunscreens sun protection products 17 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: properly International launches ࡯ MARKETING 18 Thomas Keiser, IKW; Rainer Anskinewitsch, IRI: German cosmetics and household goods markets in 2014 – Moderate growth 20 Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics: 22 I Optimistic The natural and organic market – perspectives for The current status and challenges German beauty 22 a Jürgen Volpp, Health and Beauty Germany: New market study: Relatively optimistic future salons? outlook – Beauty salons in Germany 2014 24 a Tatiana Puchkova, PCAR: Bright looking future – Russian perfumery cosmetics market 26 Star of the Month: Luxury meets science – Gold shows the way ࡯ PRODUCTION 28 a Dr. Gerd Mildau, CVUA: Where do we draw the line? The A to Z of cosmetics 30 Martina Heldermann, Kahlwax: “Berry good!” – Natural skin care with berry wax 32 New Ingredients 24 I The Russian 34 Luxe Pack review: cosmetics market – All the elements of pure luxury lots of potential, 36 Packaging News despite the crisis ࡯ SERVICES 6 Download List 38 Essential Oils: Price list 40 Formulations: Face + Colour 41 Events Diary 44 Suppliers‘ Guide 48 International B2B Exchange 34 I LuxePack 49 Advertisers‘ Index 2014: Pure luxury 49 Masthead Page and more 50 Trend statement by Sabine Kästner, Laverana 50 Preview a Leading articles Front cover picture: Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com COS1501_BASF_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 23.01.15 06:27 Seite 1 www.cossma.com Add more life to skin protection with Tinosorb® A2B Our UV fi lter Tinosorb® A2B provides reliable skin protection, plus the satisfaction of being a caring dad — and not just for French men. Tinosorb® A2B — another Care Creations product inspired by life. carecreations.basf.com Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey. COS1501_06_Download_GB 23.01.15 06:28 Seite 6 www.cossma.com SERVICES DOWNLOAD Free Downloads for Subscribers www.cossma.com/download COSSMA Download-Tip in February Click through our Web TV clips: Fighting cellulite with chronobiology www.cossma.com/tv A novel active substance con- ceived for night-time application was inspired by new findings of chronobiology and circadian rhythms. According to Alicia Giménez of Lipotec, it improves cellulite appearance after only 15 days. COSSMA subscribers can down- ... explains why the French market for natural cosmetics load further background informa- is special. tion. New active for nighttime applications: photo: Ana Blazic Pavlovic, Shutterstock.com Pavlovic, Blazic Ana photo: Inspired by chronobiology Top-Downloads for February • Market Survey: Service Providers for Personal Care … describes the future trends her agency has identified for cosmetics. • Products information: DSM Range for all product categories • Background: Multifunctional emulsifiers (Clariant) • Formulation: Rich Vegetable Oil Based Night Cream (Zschimmer & Schwarz) Fotalia.de Sorohin, Nikolai photo: ... informs about the development of the German market for personal care in 2014. Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA Downloads web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. Additional information at You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items www.cossma.com/download to extend your knowledge and understanding: or you can just scan more information on the ingredients and the QR code! Your access codes finished products that we cover, market data and for February: statistics, supplier listings, literature references, User name: cossma2 scientific articles, product formulations and useful Password: sun base formulations. Take a look right now, at … talks about the consumer trend towards multi-functional products www.cossma.com/download 6 COSSMA 1-2I2015 COS1501_Clariant_GlucoPure_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 23.01.15 06:29 Seite 1 www.cossma.com Discover GlucoPure™ SUGAR SURFACTANTS FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALTY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE. Our ongoing search for sustainable solutions led us to GlucoPure™: innovative and high-performing sugar-based surfactants for hand dishwashing, detergents and bathroom cleaners. WWW.CLARIANT.COM/GLUCOPURE GlucoPure™ is based on sugar and natural oils such as RSPO certified palm oil resulting in a RCI of up to 95%. COS1501_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 23.01.15 06:30 Seite 8 www.cossma.com NEWS MARKETS + PROFILES BASF: … Michael Zens CPL Aromas: … David Rees Cremer Oleo: Levent Yüksel and … Genna Magnall and … Thomas Bussmann Evonik: Hopf: IKW: Sappi: Dr. Tammo Boinowitz Christoph Berks Thomas Keiser Thomas Kratochwill People Evonik I Dr. Tammo Boinowitz and to Norbert Rühl of Siepe for hair fibre optical reader technolo- has taken over the management the commercial side. Josef Siepe gy for a long-term Research BASF I Levent Yüksel (57) the of Dr. Dietmar Moll’s Personal will be available for questions program, Coloright will continue new manager at the Düsseldorf- Care business that in future of a strategic nature. to be managed by its CEO, Holthausen factory is responsible will be involved with strategic www.hopf.de Sagiv Lustig, and will be part of for the fourth biggest BASF site projects. L’Oréal’s international Research in Europe. His position as Euro- www.evonik.de IKW I The IKW board (German and Innovation network. pean Business Manager for association of personal care and www.loreal.com basic surfactants is now taken Hopf Packaging I The detergent companies) has ap- on by Michael Zens (50). Adolf Hopf plastics plant has trad- pointed Thomas Keiser as the Sappi Europe I Thomas www.personal-care.basf.com ed since January 2015 under the managing director. He follows Kratochwill (45) from Austria, as name of Hopf Packaging. New di- on from Andreas Lange.
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