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COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING

Product development Global perspectives and new approaches to sun protection and tanning

Marketing New study: Beauty salons – where next?

Markets An up-to-date look at the Russian cosmetics market

Legislation Lines of demarcation: The A to Z in product development

VIP of the Month Uli Osterwalder of BASF looks at an easier way of devel- oping attractive solar protection products

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www.cossma.com Advanced Ingredients for Sun Applications

NEW! WetFilmTM - Compatibilizer and water-proofer for wet skin application LexFilm® Sun - Water-proofing agent; solubilizer for UV actives LexFilm® Spray - Water-proofing system for spray application Lexorez® 100 & 200 - Water-proofing film former LexSolvTM A - Superior solubilizer for UVA filters LexFeel® 7 - Light emollient; enhanced skin feel ideas start here

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www.cossma.com EDITORIAL

Lots going go!

15 years ago, with the first issue of the year, you had in your hand the very first. The magazine was in two language versions ... Do you remember? In the last one a half decades there has been a lot happening at COSSMA – and of course in trade magazines in general. Since 2004 you can receive COSSMA as the only trade magazine to offer addi- tional information, on line, about articles in Downloads the magazine itself. In

Additional informations at 2007 we published www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00037 COSSMA in two lan- or scan the QR code now! guages: German and Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 an international Eng- Password: sun lish edition. Since PS: Our QR codes and our tablet-compatible E-paper take 2009 you have been you directly to TV clips, downloads, book tips and more able to see web-tv in- terviews with industry experts on our web site at www.cossma.com. This is where you can also find, in addition to our e-paper that allows you direct contact with authors and certain via which information channel. You can find this online companies, plus downloadable additional informa- questionnaire at www.cossma.com/survey. We really tion on selected COSSMA articles, the latest news look forward to your replies by the end of February, and as and events information, and of course our supplier a “thank you” for your support we will let you have a one data base at www.cossma.com/guide. year free online subscription to one of our trade maga- Since 2013 we have held our COSSMA Webinars zines. as another way of updating yourselve on markets, interesting actives, and more. COSSMA in Chinese appeared in 2014 and we have Yours now published 3 editions (see www.cossma.com/ china). It is backed by our Chinese partner the China Cosmetic Review, the only official Chinese trade Angelika Meiss publication for the cosmetics and detergents industry Senior editor, COSSMA supported by the China Federation of Commerce. Also since 2014 there is a Russian COSSMA at http://ru.cossma.com, too. If your company, or a distributor, is already in the Russian market then you can, at no cost, make use of our PR service. You sim- ply e-mail us your press releases in Russian, plus a photo of maximum 1 MB in size to angelika.meiss@ health-and-beauty.com. We would be pleased to hear from you about how Follow us on: you would like to see the information in COSSMA in the future. In our anonymous online reader question- www.linkedin.com/in/cossma www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine naire you can tell us all about your readership habits and preferences so that we can, in the future, be sure to supply the information that you need and of course www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin www.youtube.de/cossmatv

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Contents 3 Editorial ࡯ NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles ࡯ FOCUS Sun care 10 a Nicole Tyrimou, Euromonitor: Sun care enters a new era 12 a Uli Osterwalder, Matthias Hloucha, BASF: How to get Sun care made easy 14 I 14 Caroline Ploton, DSM Nutritional Products: consumers to use Unsung heroes of skin protection – Sunscreens sun protection products 17 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: properly International launches ࡯ MARKETING 18 Thomas Keiser, IKW; Rainer Anskinewitsch, IRI: German cosmetics and household goods markets in 2014 – Moderate growth 20 Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics: 22 I Optimistic The natural and organic market – perspectives for The current status and challenges German beauty 22 a Jürgen Volpp, Health and Beauty Germany: New market study: Relatively optimistic future salons? outlook – Beauty salons in Germany 2014 24 a Tatiana Puchkova, PCAR: Bright looking future – Russian perfumery cosmetics market 26 Star of the Month: Luxury meets science – Gold shows the way ࡯ PRODUCTION 28 a Dr. Gerd Mildau, CVUA: Where do we draw the line? The A to Z of cosmetics 30 Martina Heldermann, Kahlwax: “Berry good!” – Natural skin care with berry wax 32 New Ingredients 24 I The Russian 34 Luxe Pack review: cosmetics market – All the elements of pure luxury lots of potential, 36 Packaging News despite the crisis ࡯ SERVICES 6 Download List 38 Essential Oils: Price list 40 Formulations: Face + Colour 41 Events Diary 44 Suppliers‘ Guide 48 International B2B Exchange 34 I LuxePack 49 Advertisers‘ Index 2014: Pure luxury 49 Masthead Page and more 50 Trend statement by Sabine Kästner, Laverana 50 Preview

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Add more life to skin protection with Tinosorb® A2B

Our UV fi lter Tinosorb® A2B provides reliable skin protection, plus the satisfaction of being a caring dad — and not just for French men. Tinosorb® A2B — another Care Creations product inspired by life. carecreations.basf.com

Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey. COS1501_06_Download_GB 23.01.15 06:28 Seite 6

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SERVICES DOWNLOAD

Free Downloads for Subscribers www.cossma.com/download

COSSMA Download-Tip in February Click through our Web TV clips: Fighting cellulite with chronobiology www.cossma.com/tv A novel active substance con- ceived for night-time application was inspired by new findings of chronobiology and circadian rhythms. According to Alicia Giménez of Lipotec, it improves cellulite appearance after only 15 days.

COSSMA subscribers can down- ... explains why the French market for natural cosmetics load further background informa- is special. tion.

New active for nighttime applications:

photo: Ana Blazic Pavlovic, Shutterstock.com Pavlovic, Blazic Ana photo: Inspired by chronobiology

Top-Downloads for February • Market Survey: Service Providers for Personal Care … describes the future trends her agency has identified for cosmetics. • Products information: DSM Range for all product categories • Background: Multifunctional emulsifiers (Clariant) • Formulation: Rich Vegetable Oil Based Night Cream

(Zschimmer & Schwarz) Fotalia.de Sorohin, Nikolai photo:

... informs about the development of the German market for personal care in 2014.

Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA Downloads web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. Additional information at You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items www.cossma.com/download to extend your knowledge and understanding: or you can just scan more information on the ingredients and the QR code! Your access codes finished products that we cover, market data and for February: statistics, supplier listings, literature references, User name: cossma2 scientific articles, product formulations and useful Password: sun base formulations. Take a look right now, at … talks about the consumer trend towards multi-functional products www.cossma.com/download

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Discover GlucoPure™ SUGAR SURFACTANTS FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE

THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALTY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE. Our ongoing search for sustainable solutions led us to GlucoPure™: innovative and high-performing sugar-based surfactants for hand dishwashing, detergents and bathroom cleaners.

WWW.CLARIANT.COM/GLUCOPURE

GlucoPure™ is based on sugar and natural oils such as RSPO certified palm oil resulting in a RCI of up to 95%. COS1501_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 23.01.15 06:30 Seite 8

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NEWS MARKETS + PROFILES

BASF: … Michael Zens CPL Aromas: … David Rees Cremer Oleo: Levent Yüksel and … Genna Magnall and … Thomas Bussmann

Evonik: Hopf: IKW: Sappi: Dr. Tammo Boinowitz Christoph Berks Thomas Keiser Thomas Kratochwill

People Evonik I Dr. Tammo Boinowitz and to Norbert Rühl of Siepe for hair fibre optical reader technolo- has taken over the management the commercial side. Josef Siepe gy for a long-term Research BASF I Levent Yüksel (57) the of Dr. Dietmar Moll’s Personal will be available for questions program, Coloright will continue new manager at the Düsseldorf- Care business that in future of a strategic nature. to be managed by its CEO, Holthausen factory is responsible will be involved with strategic www.hopf.de Sagiv Lustig, and will be part of for the fourth biggest BASF site projects. L’Oréal’s international Research in Europe. His position as Euro- www.evonik.de IKW I The IKW board (German and Innovation network. pean Business Manager for association of personal care and www.loreal.com basic surfactants is now taken Hopf Packaging I The detergent companies) has ap- on by Michael Zens (50). Adolf Hopf plastics plant has trad- pointed Thomas Keiser as the Sappi Europe I Thomas www.personal-care.basf.com ed since January 2015 under the managing director. He follows Kratochwill (45) from Austria, as name of Hopf Packaging. New di- on from Andreas Lange. Birgit new sales and marketing director CPL Aromas I Genna Mag- rectors and partners are the Siepe Huber remains as the deputy for the special papers business, nall who previously worked for company and CGN Preform. Lolo- head of the business. is charged with further building Robert McBride, a British-based mai Hipp, the previous head of www.ikw.org up the special papers sales. manufacturer of household and Adolf Hopf, has handed over the He takes over from Rosemarie personal care products, has management of the technical side L’Oréal I After L’Oréal’s acqui- Asquino, who after 38 years with been appointed Senior House- of the operative business to sition of Coloright in Israel, a the company, is now retiring. hold Care Chemist and will be Christoph Berks of CGN Preform start-up company that develops www.sappi.com based in CPL’s Brixworth site. David Rees who previously worked for ISP Microcaps (now Ashland) has been appointed Encapsulation Chemist and is to Book now! drive the development of CPL’s Aromacore patent-protected fra- BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG I The 5th German Cosmetology Congress takes place on grance encapsulation platform. April 25th 2015, at the Leipzig exhibition centre as part of the BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG. Target www.cplaromas.com participants are doctors, health practices, scientifically interested cosmetologists, dermatologists, pharmacists and technical people from the cosmetics business. Cremer Oleo I Thomas Dr. Christian Rimpler of Dr. Rimpler will Bussmann is the new Sales Di- discuss biomimetic cosmetics and Angela rector taking over the responsibil- Kleiner from Croda/Sederma will cover ity for leading the company’s stem cells in cosmetics and medicines global sales team, located in sub- with their potential and their limits. Other sidiaries in the USA, Asia and subjects will include management of major European markets. Having scars in an aesthetic/dermatological prac- more than 20 years of interna- tice, acne, orthomolecular medicines in tional sales experience he previ- anti-ageing, plus chemical peelings. ously worked in sales of finished www.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig products within the L’Oréal group and as Sales Manager COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss Asia-Pacific for a cosmetic spe- will chair the 5th cosmetology

cialty ingredients supplier. Dennig Peter Beauty, and Health photo: congress in Leipzig www.cremeroleo.de

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FOCUS: SUN CARE INGREDIENTS

Sun care enters a new era

refreshing, cooling and/or hydration from Nivea, e.g. Nivea Sun Protect & Sun protection expected to constitute 90% of total sun Fresh Spray and Nivea Sun Protector care by 2018 remains the Solar Spray Hidratante. largest category in sun care While it sets in Western Europe and North America The rise of offerings across both skin care and colour cosmetics, which include SPF protection among their benefits, has resulted in consumers substituting sun care protection with multi-benefit skin care and/or colour cosmetics offerings, especially for dai- ly use. The higher perceived value for money, easier-to-apply formulation and convenience they provide has made them popular among con-

photo: Syda Productions, Shutterstock.com Syda Productions, photo: sumers. This is showcased by “other facial Even though sun care in some regional markets is stagnating, there are make-up” that includes BB creams, markets in which products of this category are flourishing. Nicole Tyrimou which surged ahead with 98% and 11% identifies which segments to expect the highest growth from and what product growth in North America and Western formats can help this market to expand. Europe, respectively, during 2013. Skin care recorded a weaker performance un care consumers are expected tributor with over 90% of the absolute with 2.6% for the former and 1% for the Sto spend over US$10 billion growth to the category. latter, but still outpaced sun protection globally on sun care in 2015, but Latin America has seen double-dig- growth in the regions in the same peri- in terms of overall beauty sales it re- it growth over the past five years with od. Sun protection declined by 2% in mains a niche category, as it will only its growth in 2013 reaching over 20%. North America during 2013 and only account for 2% of total beauty and per- Brazil grew by 21% in 2013, as con- grew by 0.5% in Western Europe, indi- sonal care and less than 10% of total sumer awareness about the health cating that it is losing consumers to skin care. Furthermore, while Latin dangers of excessive sun exposure has other categories. Sun protection re- America has been growing in double prompted consumers to increase their mains the largest category in sun care, digits (nearly 20% in 2013) and the cat- usage of sun protection. While the with nearly 90% of total sun care by egory has been making inroads in the largest consumption of sun protection 2018. As a result, slowdowns and de- lucrative Asia Pacific market, it has not offerings remains during the summer clines in its sales across markets in been enough to compensate for the months – December to February for these regions have affected sun care continued slowdown in Western Eu- Brazil – increasingly numbers of con- as a whole. rope and North America. As a result, sumers are incorporating sun protec- sun care grew by 5.4% in 2013, down tion into their daily routine all year Beyond sun protection from 5.6% in 2012. round. New innovations have helped A strong push by governments drive growth, such as fast-drying around the world to raise awareness The sun rises in sprays with added benefits, like about the harmful effects of sun dam- Latin America ... age has helped sun protection to be While in 2013 Western Europe was seen as a necessity by many con- still the leading region, by 2018 it will Downloads sumers. Although for many consumers be trailing Latin America, as the latter Additional information can be found it remains a product to use during hol- at www.health-and-beauty.com/ will surge ahead. Latin America is ex- qr00345 idays or outdoor activities, overall us- pected to add over a billion of the or you can just scan the QR code! age in sun protection has increased Your access codes for February: US$1.8 billion added value to sun care User name: cossma2 over the years. However, after-sun and by 2018. Brazil will be the largest con- Password: sun self-tanning have failed to create a

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www.cossma.com Trends Statements Innovation

Additional benefits to after-sun products include tan-prolong- ing properties and tan-maximisation

technology ock.co m t E-mail newsletter order ers ixel, Shu tt o p ixel, t o: Pho o: t p ho

necessity value for consumers, thus Future opportunities remaining niche. in sun care In the case of after-sun, strong com- While sun care has been through a petition comes from body care, with rough patch in mature regions, it is many consumers choosing to only use growing healthily elsewhere. The prior- a body cream/lotion rather than add an ity for Western Europe and North additional step to their routine. Fur- America is the return to the growth of thermore, as after-sun products are for sun protection, which could be assist- primary use after extensive sun expo- ed by additional benefits in sun protec- sure, they are usually confined to those tion offerings like anti-ageing and occasions. However, many after-sun moisturising, as well as improvement products are incorporating additional in formulation. Furthermore, increas- benefits to increase value to con- ing awareness of the difference in effi- sumers. In Europe, brands like Lan- cacy between sun protection as an caster have added tan-prolonging added benefit in skin care or colour z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree properties to their offerings as well as cosmetics compared to sun protection that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact tan-maximisation technology. In Asia as the key offering needs to be high- me Pacific, beauty players have taken an- lighted. J by mobile phone J by e-mail other approach, adding lightening fea- Furthermore, Asia Pacific is expect- J in writing J by telephone/fax tures to their offerings, and have ex- ed to halve its gap with Western Eu- with news from the industry and to tell me about inter- panded beyond the traditional lotion, rope from US$787 million to under esting offers. If I do not wish to receive further infor- to cleansers and masks. Examples in- US$300 million, with the possibility of mation, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty. clude Lakmé Sun Expert Skin Lighten- overtaking it in the next 10 years. This - ing + De Tan After Sun Face Wash and coupled with Latin America’s continu- After Sun Facial Essence Mask, and ous strong performance – could boost Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card: Lotus Herbals Detan Safe Sun After Sun sun care back to pre-recession growth Face Pack to remove Sun Damage. As a levels. In order for sun protection and, @ result, 74% of absolute growth by 2018 as a result, sun care to further pene- E-mail will come from Asia Pacific, while cur- trate these markets, more customised rently only at US$68 million, holds the products for the region could be ex- only growth potential for the category. plored. For example, in Asia Pacific First name, family name Self-tanning has had a fair share of multi-benefit solutions, as well as mul-

bad press due to problems with its for- tiple-step routines are commonly used Company mulations – like the orange tint; the among consumers. Sun protection smell and rumours about the presence could expand in a similar way to after- of carcinogenic ingredients have dis- sun to further formats and/or steps Street address couraged many consumers. Further- such as face masks, serums, emulsions more, the category is struggling to etc; and increase its features to include Postcode, city, country break into Asia Pacific, where there is lightening, hydration and anti-ageing. traditionally a preference for fair skin Additional information can be found on the Internet – and, thus, no use for self-tanning prod- see Internet panel ucts. The category has been in decline Date and signature everywhere, with the exception of Aus- tralasia and North America, where tanned skin without exposure to the Nicole Tyrimou sun, is favourable. Improvements in Beauty and Personcal Care formulation and the addition of extra Research Analyst, Euromonitor International, London, UK Order today: benefits could help revitalise the cate- [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103 gory in Europe. www.euromonitor.com Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany [email protected] Tel: +49(0) 721 165-131 Fax: +49(0) 721 165-103 COS1501_12_BASF_GB_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_D 23.01.15 06:36 Seite 12

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FOCUS: SUN CARE INGREDIENTS

Downloads Sun care made Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00346 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 easy Password: sun

Sun care products nowadays are ideally tailored to specific consumer needs

skin, have a light texture, absorb quickly and have an attractive sensory profile for a pleasant feeling on the skin. As a sunscreen has to please its user, the trend towards lighter textures of formulation continues. This means the product must have a pleasant feel- ing on the skin during and after app- lication, as well as being visually ap- pealing (e.g. no excessive whitening) and having a nice scent. There is also increasing demand for quick and easy- to-use solutions that clearly reflect the convenience megatrend. Sun protec- tion products that can be applied to wet skin are just one example of this trend. In addition to being suitable for use on wet skin and allowing quick and photo: BASF photo: easy application, these products re- The process of designing attractive sunscreen products is becom- move water from the skin’s surface and ing increasingly complex. What can be done to simplify this? Uli do not leave the skin feeling greasy. As Osterwalder et al. from BASF show how to incorporate an SPF well as actively contributing to con- claim into different application formats even when there is no sumers’ wellbeing, products offering pleasant textures and ease of use also specific knowledge of sun care. encourage frequent application of sun- screen in sufficient amounts. hile the sun’s heat and must now be fulfilled, including the There is also an ongoing trend to- Wlight are essential to most European recommendation that the wards daily skin care products that in- forms of life on earth, un- UVA protection factor must be at least corporate UV protection. protected exposure to intense ultra-vi- one-third or greater of the sun protec- olet radiation can result in skin dam- tion factors (SPF) value (UVA-PF ≥ 1/3 Expertise meets creativity age and diseases. SPF). Technology has therefore im- For a sun care product to be suc- According to Datamonitor1, the glob- proved to cover UVA protection and cessful on the market, it needs to meet al sun care market was valued at $8.7 provide higher SPFs. strict performance requirements, in- billion in 2013, with sun protection Consumers are now wary of unpro- cluding a high SPF value and UVA pro- accounting for almost two-thirds (64%) tected exposure to both types and are tection, as well as water resistance, of spending in this category. Strong paying greater attention to the efficacy photostability and certain sensory growth in the sun care market is also of sun protection. All this has sparked properties. For designers and manu- expected over the next few years. A a high demand for sun protection facturers of sun care products, four key decade ago, sunscreen was viewed as a products that offer higher SPFs requirements must be met: product to support “tanning without and broad-spectrum protection. These • Efficacy: Choosing the right combi- sunburn”, but its purpose has now should offer the same level of protec- nation of UV filters and other key shifted to preventing skin damage, pre- tion as clothing or the shade and pro- ingredients to achieve the desired mature aging and skin cancer. In addi- vide equal protection against both performance. tion, performance standards have be- UVB and UVA rays. • Safety: Be it objective or just the per- come more stringent over the years For consumers to enjoy using a sun- ception of safety by the media and and specific UVA protection criteria screen, it must also be gentle on the the consumer.

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INGREDIENTS FOCUS: SUN CARE

• Registration: This is most important (O/W), which consist of oil droplets in if the sunscreen is to be distributed a continuous water phase; or water-in- in different regions or even globally. oil emulsions (W/O), where water • Patent freedom: “Freedom to oper- droplets are present in a continuous ate” while respecting 3rd party intel- oil phase. The emulsion type depends lectual property rights. on many factors including the emulsi- Designing a sun care product there- fier type, temperature, salt concentra- fore requires clear insight into con- tion and more. An initial estimate of sumers’ needs and expectations, a the preferred emulsion structure is de- strong commitment to innovation, and fined by the Bancroft rule, which states the ability to be creative when develop- that the solubility of the emulsifier sets ing new products, as well as in-depth preference for the continuous phase of formulation expertise and high-quality an emulsion. This rule explains the ingredients. principle influence of the emulsifier structure, salt concentration and tem- Complex challenge perature. Phase inversions of emul- All this means that designing and sions – from O/W to W/O or vice versa – manufacturing sunscreen has become can be enforced by a variation of these increasingly complex. BASF’s latest parameters. Adding water at a con- development, the broad-spectrum fil- stant temperature, with moderate stir- ter Tinosorb A2B, is an efficient UV fil- ring, spontaneously creates a white ter that enables a high degree of for- O/W emulsion. This emulsion will mulation flexibility and offers more show creaming on standing due to its balanced UV protection. It protects the low viscosity. Therefore, it is necessary skin against UV wavelengths ranging to adjust the rheological profile from 290 to 340 nanometers, thereby through the addition of a thickener. being the first of a new generation of With the new sunscreen concen- finely-ground (micronized) UV filters: it trate, any sunscreen between SPF 6 complements conventional oil-soluble and SPF 50 (the range of SPF recom- Increased demand for sun protection products that UV filters by closing the current gap mended in Europe) can be readily offer higher SPFs and broad-spectrum protection

between UVA and UVB absorbers, thus manufactured. For a desired SPF X, the Shutterstock.com Kraska, photo: enabling a balanced protection across concentrate must be diluted to X%. For the entire spectrum of solar UV radia- example, to produce an SPF 30 sun- Although manufacturing sun- tion. screen, the concentrate must be dilut- screens can be very complex, there are ed down to 30%. This automatically en- now easier ways to go about it. For in- Easy yet effective sures the correct amount of UVA pro- stance, by using the BASF sunscreen To overcome the complex process tection. Thickeners can be added to simulator in the design, or to just gain of formulating sun care products the achieve the desired rheological prop- a better understanding of how the per- new sunscreen concentrate Uvinul erties, e.g. to make various product formance of sunscreens can be influ- Easy considerably simplifies the formats such as lotions, creams, enced by varying the composition and process of designing and manufactur- sprays, etc. concentrations of UV filters. The sun- ing products: it is a transparent, oil- screen concentrate Uvinul Easy is an- based concentrate that combines UV From daily use creams other option for manufacturing sun filters, emollients and emulsifiers. It to lipsticks care products in an easy way and has can be transformed into an effective Consumers’ desires to stand out as been created to rapidly incorporate an sunscreen by simply adding water and individuals also calls for sun care prod- SPF claim into different application a thickener. The easiest way to make a ucts that can be tailored to their specif- formats without requiring specific sunscreen is by simply adding water ic needs, as well as target either men or knowledge of sun care. to a sunscreen concentrate, such as women of different ages at different 1Datamonitor Report “Consumer and Innovation Trends in Suncare 2014”, September 23, 2014 Uvinul Easy, which is a transparent, oil- stages in their lives. It’s possible to A frame formulation and additional information can based concentrate. With this concen- customize the formulation by adding be found on the Internet – see Internet panel trate, any sunscreen ranging from SPF other emollients and sensory-enhanc- 6 to SPF 50 can be readily manufac- ing products. Furthermore, preserva- tured. tives and fragrances can be added to The technology behind this concen- make the product even more unique. It Uli Osterwalder Marketing Manager Sun Care trate is based on phase inversion is even possible to make more complex Stéphanie Acker, Technical processes, which can be used for the cosmetic formats such as skin care for- Manager Sun Care and Matthias low-energy formation of fine emul- mulations, e.g. a daily use cream with Hloucha, Senior Research sions. The most common emulsion SPF 15 and a make-up formulation, Manager Physical Chemistry [email protected] structures for personal care applica- such as a BB cream or lipstick with www.personal-care.basf.com tions are either oil-in-water emulsions SPF 50. www.carecreations.basf.com

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FOCUS: SUN CARE INGREDIENTS

Sunscreens Unsung heroes of skin protection

Today’s con- Sunscreens can be lifesavers – so why are so many people reluc- sumer needs tant to use them, or at least to use them properly? DSM looked into lead to both a creative and sci- the matter, and came up with solutions. entific approach for the creation ccording to a recent survey1, looks. However, the literature indicates of desirable sun protection Athe majority of people consider that there is a big gap between the solutions a young-looking skin their num- recommended sunscreen application ber one beauty priority and an impor- amount of 2 mg/cm2 and the amount tant source of self-confidence. If the skin is to look its best it must be pro- Downloads tected, and this includes keeping the Additional information can be found harmful rays of the sun at bay. at www.health-and-beauty.com/ While UVB rays are responsible for qr00347 or you can just scan the QR code! skin reddening and burning on expo- Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 sure to the sun, UVA radiation pene- Password: sun trates deeper to cause premature skin ageing in the long term. Moreover, a of product actually applied by con- study conducted by DSM showed that sumers, which appears to be more like- the low-level radiation, to which we are ly between a fifth and a third of the frequently exposed, particularly when recommended dosage3,4. we do not intend to sunbathe, can cause cumulative damage to the skin2. Sensory perceptions are key In this context, sunscreens are true to sunscreen acceptance heroes, protecting us against all of Why are people so reluctant to ap- these threats. And correctly applied ply enough sunscreen? To discover the they allow us to enjoy the sun without answer, DSM conducted a survey with

photo: DSM photo: worrying about our health, or our more than 300 European sunscreen

Any concerns about palm oil? Choose to support sustainable palm oil or to formulate completely palm oil free. Talk to us. COS1501_14_DSM_GB_COS1405_10_Croda_D 23.01.15 06:38 Seite 15

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Sensory panel for optimized formulations

DSM’s in-house expert sensory panel, integral to the company’s sunscreen development, is trained on objective criteria and follows the latest scientif- ic guidelines. Eighty percent of the evaluators are themselves cosmetic product formulators. The panel conducts continuing evaluation sessions twice weekly. It provides descriptive and objective sensory analyses for all lotion types and other semi-solid formulations, with a dedicated team of statisticians performing a final analysis of the data.

users which provided in-depth insights into consumers’ percep- tions of sun care products. The results highlighted people’s desire for improved sensory qualities. Stickiness came highest on the list of negative qualities associated with sunscreens, with seventy-one percent of those surveyed complaining their sunscreen made sand stick to them. Others felt that the “greasy” feeling left by sun prod- ucts marred their enjoyment of the sun as it made them reluctant to touch food or pick up books, phones, MP3 players etc.

Translating insights into formulations The company’s analysis of the global sensory landscape of sun- screens and the consumer insights were then translated into new, desirable formulations with DSM’s Parsol sun protection ingredi- ents for UV protection as well as an appealing selection of other DSM actives such as the sensory modifiers Valvance adding cos- metic elegance to the sun care products. Two formulations were specifically developed to maximise user comfort while still meeting all regulatory requirements. The Touch Ready Sun Lotion SPF 30, a white, glossy-looking emulsion with UVA protection >10, has a superior spreading score, making it easy to apply, whilst its above-average score for wetness means it feels light and refreshing on application. Compared to other SPF 30 products on the market it leaves the skin with virtual- ly no shine or sticky feel. The formulation includes DSM’s Valvance Touch 210 to further enhance the dry touch feel and setting a new sun care standard. Beach Dream Sun Lotion SPF 50+ for children – and parents – is The unique a lightweight, almost imperceptible sunscreen, which minimises fingerprints. Its below-average score for thickness gives it a light- KahlWax effect weight feel on application and a light, dry feel immediately after- wards. The dry, non-sticky film that it leaves is barely discernible, while its absorbency makes the formulation a suitable whole-body Think skin care? Think KahlWax. sunscreen. For KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes As research shows that consumers regularly fail to apply sun- for skin care products such as creams, emulsions or screens in sufficient quantities due to unappealing sensory quali- sunscreen applications. ties of sun care products. Unveiling the sensory performance of many market products the analysis and feedback from DSM’s pan- el of sensory experts stimulated the development of consumer-led Take new care of your skin formulations: with solutions solutions that uniquely meet consumers sun care wishes, i.e for- and services that exactly meet your requirements, and with mulations with a dry touch that do not create a shiny skin and facil- ingredients which naturally fulfill the consumers’ wishes – itate the use of tablets and smartphones, addressing the key need such as a super soft skin and a unique skin feel. of consumers for non-sticky formulations. The formulations and the reference list can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel KahlWax. The ingredients for care.

Caroline Ploton Regional Marketing Manager Sun Care DSM Nutritional Products Kaiseraugst, Switzerland [email protected] www.dsm.com 576-14_EA_HBB_Image_International_A4 Kopie_Layout 1 23.01.15 06:40 Seite 1

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Health and Beauty Germany GmbH · Karl-Friedrich-Str.14–18 • 76133 Karlsruhe · Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp Registergericht Mannheim HRB 106183 · USt-ID: DE 813859129 COS1501_17_Mintel_GB_COS1406_21_Mintel_GB 23.01.15 06:40 Seite 17

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FOCUS: SUN CARE International launches

This month Vivienne Rudd, Head of Beauty and Personal Care Insight at Mintel, presents a selection of 2014’s most innovative sun care products.

he gradual self-tanning face wa- active ingredients and a bio-techno- Mintel photos: Sephora’s self-tanning face water provides a glow Tter Sephora Solaire Eau Bron- logical formula that restores the cor- that intensifies over the zante Progressive Visage is said rect level of hydration and strengthens course of applications to provide the skin with a glow that in- the skin’s natural protective barrier. Its tensifies over the course of applica- light texture is fast absorbing. tions. Its easy-to-apply, light, non- The body care range Jill Stuart Relax sticky texture dries instantly for a Tuberose & Rose with its concept of ro- natural streak-free finish. It features mantic relaxation features a relaxing the moisturising natural ingredient scent of tuberose and alba rose. Its HydroSenn+, which is claimed to be limited edition Aqua Chiffon Protector MiMC’s three-in-one powder sunscreen for more effective than hyaluronic acid. with SPF 50+/PA+++ is a sunscreen lo- sun protection, instant tion with gel touch that spreads re- whitening effect and freshingly across the skin. It is claimed after sun treatment Downloads to protect skin from UV rays and pro- vides a translucent finish with no white Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ powder residue or sticky feeling. The qr00349 or you can just scan the QR code! lightweight formula contains moistur- Your access codes for February: ising ingredients including white User name: cossma2 strawberry extract and mango seed oil Password: sun Kiko’s hands and lips winter in addition to anti-inflammatory lo- balm launched in response quat leaf extract, which reduces the to the specific needs of MiMC Natural Whitening Mineral damage caused by UV rays. skin exposed to the cold, wind and sun Powder Sunscreen SPF 50/PA+++ in The newly formulated sheet mask Clear White is described as a three-in- Kosé Cosmeport Clear Turn White Mask

one product providing sun protection, contains provitamin B5 to reduce fine an instant whitening effect and after lines due to dryness, hyaluronic acid, sun treatment. The quasi-drug formula spa water and natural moisturising fac- contains a vitamin C derivative that tor GL to leave the skin hydrated and prevents dark spots and freckles by plump. The sheet gently adheres to the Jill Stuart’s sunscreen lo- suppressing melanin formation; orien- skin. tion contains white straw- tal herb extracts to prevent redness; The Artemis of Switzerland More berry extract, mango seed and natural mineral powders coated Than After Sun range features the oil and loquat leaf extract with olive squalane which protect the SwissCellProtect Compound with anti- skin against UV rays and keeps it hy- inflammatory edelweiss extract and drated. It is claimed to conceal the antioxidant, artimisia extract for an- skin’s imperfections, leave the com- tioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti- plexion smooth and make foundation bacterial properties and a latest-gener- last longer. The Limited Edition pow- ation moisture booster. The range’s der comes with a puff applicator for on- Soothing Face Mask Gesichtsmaske the-go use. with aloe vera is designed to visibly re- Kosé Cosmeport’s sheet The Kiko Skin Professionals Winter lax skin, balance out the effects of light mask gently adheres to the skin Rescue was launched for the winter and environmental influences and season in response to the specific stop the damaging chain reactions of needs of skin exposed to the cold, wind free radicals. and sun. The range’s hands and lips Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel winter balm Tratamiento Reparador y Protector Específico para Manos y Labios is a repairing concentrated Vivienne Rudd The soothing face mask cream for hands, and a balm for lips Head of Beauty and Personal of Artemis of Switzerland with active ingredients to relieve dry- Care Insight, Mintel is designed to stop the London, UK ness and chapping. It contains sun- damaging chain reactions www.mintel.com of free radicals screen and features a complex mix of

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MARKETING MARKET MOVES

German cosmetics and household goods markets in 2014 Moderate growth

Among hard discounters in the per- In 2014 total sales of beauty care and cosmetics, plus household products, sonal care sector neither the listing of enjoyed a period of growth. Whilst beauty products grew, in line with the branded products at Aldi nor the in- forecast of the IKW*, by 1.6 percent to reach 13.01 billion Euros, the household creased focus on their “own brands” care products sector grew by only 0.8 percent to 4.34 billion Euros. brought the hoped-for increase in business. The remaining discounters on the also reported sales better than in the other hand clearly increased their sales previous year. Falls in sales value were of beauty care products. At Netto and With growth figures of reported by the soaps and syndets, Penny the strategy of listing more 5.5% colour cosmetics pre-shave and after-shave products, branded lines and handing out more reported the best and hair removers.For 2015 the beauty promotional leaflets has paid off. growth for 2014 sector generally is forecasting a sales The products that were most fre- increase of 1 to 2%. quently promoted included hair care, shower products and deodorants. The A closer look at the strongest growth among the products personal care sectors Hair care continues to be the Downloads biggest sector in terms of beauty prod- Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ ucts. With sales of 3.04 billion Euros qr00354 this sector accounted for one quarter or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: of sales and yet grew at a below-aver- User name: cossma2 age rate of only 0.8%. Password: sun The second biggest product sector so promoted was seen to be those in was skin and facial care with sales of the higher priced range, such as colour 2.82 billion Euros and taking more cosmetics and fragrances that were than one fifth of the market. Here too, given strong promotion in the drug- growth was below the average at 0.9%. stores. Colour cosmetics, with sales of 1.56 Only tooth and oral care, and de- billion Euros and a market share of odorants saw a fall in the ranges pro- 12%, was the third sector in sales value. moted in comparison with the previ- In fact a dynamic level of growth gave ous year, because last year the promo- photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com colour cosmetics a 5.5% increase in tional action was more frequent. sales. Oral and tooth products also Whilst on the one hand price pres- n 2014 in German foodstuffs and grew, turning over 1.4 billion Euros and sure was on the increase, high cost Igeneral stores the consumer handed growing by 2.4 percent, which is clearly launches were responsible for in- over one in every 8 Euros (i.e. 12.5 %) above average and represents around creased turnover. Increased promo- for beauty and household care prod- 11% of the market. tional pressure and price competition ucts. In 2014 the manufacturers of Ladies fragrances achieved sales of in many sectors resulted in sales these products turned over around 1.04 billion Euros and enjoyed an turnover being slow, compared with 13 billion Euros, i.e. 201 million or above average growth of 2.4 percent, the number of units sold. In some 1.6 % more than the year before. taking 8% of the market. product sectors this actually had a neg- This positive development is mir- ative effect on the launch of costly new rored in the strongest sector: hair care, Who is retailing beauty products or ranges. The fragrances which achieved 0.8% growth. Skin and products? sector, for instance, could however facial care grew by 0.9% and oral and Sales per consumer of beauty care hold its average price despite an in- tooth products grew by 2.4%. Colour products**, which grew clearly in 2014, creased promotional effort. Here it was cosmetics (i.e. products such as lip- can be traced back to higher spending the number of high cost launches in stick, make-up and nail polish) en- per purchase. The frequency of pur- the masstige sector that helped keep joyed an increase in sales value of 5.5% chases remained relatively constant. A prices relatively high. and confirmed their place as key pillars large part of the additional sales of In hair care on the other hand the of growth in the sector, as in the previ- beauty care products was done in drug- new premium products in the mass ous year. Fragrances, bath and shower store type shops which carried on with market sector did not fully compensate additives, foot care and deodorants their growth in 2014. for the negative price movement. In ad-

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MARKET MOVES MARKETING

dition to lower prices in the trade the increased promotional budgets have driven down average prices. A similar situation was also seen in shower products. In the tooth and oral care sector the reduced promotional pricing worked in the opposite way on individual product pricing. Here too there were new ex- pensive launches contributing to in- creased product pricing. At the same time overfill packs and bigger multi- packs led to a slightly lower price per litre. Worthy of a special mention is the foot care market pricing position. In

this relatively small product sector new Shutterstock.com Konstantin, Yuganov photo: technical developments were promot- Natural cosmetics in 2014 achieved double figure growth in almost all categories ed, which enabled the producers to add value and increase product sales. cluding TV advertising) have been in- Household care in close-up Whilst innovation has to an extent creased and the distribution of natural Universal, complete and colour laun- increased product value several estab- cosmetics has been significantly dry detergents have a share of more lished brands had to compete with the strengthened in general stores. In 2014 than one quarter of their sector and en- store’s “own brand” products. natural cosmetics enjoyed double-fig- joyed growth of 0.9% (slightly above Shower products and soaps are in a ure growth in almost all product cate- average) to 1.17 billion Euros. category where “own brands” already gories. Nevertheless conventional cos- If one adds fine and special deter- have a relatively high share of the mar- metics still turns over 86% of the cos- gents, washing aids and fabric condi- ket, however in the last 12 months, be- metics market, but sales of near tioners to the general and colour laun- cause of lower prices and promotions natural products fell once again and for dry products this sector represents by branded products, they are finding the first time its growth level lies below almost half of the total market. themselves in the same price bracket as that of conventional cosmetics. For fabric conditioners growth over branded products and with increased Face and body care, with shower the 12 months was 2.3%, touching 318 difficulties to come in the future. products make up two thirds of the nat- million Euros, whilst fine and special On the other hand tooth and oral ural cosmetics market. These 3 cate- detergents and, fabric conditioners in care as well as deodorants have seen gories thus make the biggest single general, fell slightly by 1.0% to 195 the reducing prices lead to price con- contribution to the overall growth of and 306 million. scious consumers reaching for “own 15.8 million Euros. The second biggest sector, with brand” products. sales of 872 million Euros and growth “Own brands” however have not on- Household care: of 0.9 percent, was household cleaning ly sold based on price. They do, for in- largely constant products. They take about one fifth of stance, participate with their skin and In 2014 sales of household care the market. facial care with the natural cosmetics’ products* touched 4.34 billion Euros, Washing up liquids account for own brands in the drugstores and thus i.e. 34 million or 0.8 percent more than about one sixth of the market. The contributing to the lasting success of in the previous year. The most signifi- growth of 1.3% amounted to 702 mil- natural cosmetics. cant product group (universal, com- lion Euros – above the average of all plete and colour laundry detergents) household care products. Natural cosmetics saw an increase of 0.9%. On the other *These figures are based on a forecast by the IKW using sales figures that have been reported by the IRI for the advances strongly hand sales of fine and special laundry period from January to September 2014 As well as innovation, natural cos- detergents fell by 1%. **These figures are based on the MAT (Moving annual total), calculated by IRI. This means that the actual fig- metics was another driver of growth in With a 2.3% growth fabric condition- ures for the period October 2013 to September 2014 are calculations. the beauty care business, and is still an ers continued the positive develop- Further information can be found on the Internet important trend. In recent years this ments of 2013. The winners also in- (see Internet panel) sector has grown more strongly than cluded washing up liquids, domestic Thomas Keiser conventional and “near natural” cos- cleaners and domestic air fresheners. General Manager, IKW metics, and even turns over more per In contrast the producers of sitting Frankfurt a.M., Germany [email protected] annum than “near natural” cosmetics. room, leather cleaners and automobile Alongside increased demand the cleaners turned in figures the same or Rainer Anskinewitsch dynamic growth of natural cosmetics is slightly lower than the previous year. MD of Information Resources also the result of the extensive activi- The association expects a 1 to 2 per- Düsseldorf, Germany rainer.anskinewitsch@ ties of the producers. Ranges have cent increase over the present figure iriworldwide.com been extended, marketing budgets (in- for household care products. www.iriworldwide.com

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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

The current status and challenges The natural and organic market

In a free education programme at this year’s In-Cosmetics Marketing Trends Presentations, experts from organisations including Organic Monitor, NaTrue, photo: Modella, Shutterstock.com Soil Association, and NSF will discuss the current status and challenges of natural and organic certification in a roundtable.

he market for natural and organ- harmonisation and that the five part- Tic products is booming, fuelled ners certify more than 85% of natural by a rise in the wider wellness and organic brands globally. “Not to trend, greater availability of organic in- aim for harmonisation is counter intu- gredients and increased demand from itive,” she maintains. “If we, as an in- The five COSMOS consumers. Innovation is strong, creat- dustry, want the market to grow, creat- partners certify ing a market sector that can compete ing an internationally recognised stan- more than 85% of on an equal footing with mainstream dard like COSMOS reduces red tape natural and organic companies. and helps the consumer to make an ed- brands globally The issue of regulation in the field ucated and informed choice in the of natural cosmetics remains unre- beauty products they buy.” solved as there is still no legal require- From December 2016, COSMOS ment for certification for the sector. partners have committed to stop certi- There is no shortage of certifying or- fying new C&T products to their private ganizations for natural and organic standards. “Any product that requires cosmetics and Europe leads the way reformulation that currently sits under with COSMOS, a partnership agree- the partners’ private standards will al- NaTrue label sets strict criteria for ment between the five leading certi- so have to be certified to COSMOS three different levels of certification fiers: Ecocert, BDIH, Soil Association, standards from this date.” across 13 product categories and there Cosmebio and ICEA. Other labels in- are now 4,000 products which carry the clude NaTrue, located in Brussels and NaTrue’s study on NaTrue logo. It recently commissioned US-based NSF. consumer perception a new research study entitled “Explor- Emma Reinhold, trade relations Running alongside COSMOS is Na- ing the Territory of Natural & Organic manager, Soil Association, comments True, an international not-for-profit or- Cosmetics” which was published in that COSMOS remains committed to ganisation since October 2007. The November 2014, highlighting what consumers expect from natural and or- ganic cosmetics, what drives their pur- chasing decisions and what they un- derstand about the products. One of the aims of the study was to address consumer confusion and best meet consumer expectations amidst a sea of “greenwashing”. This study included 900 women aged 25–65 from France, Italy, Ger- many, Sweden, Poland and the UK and flagged up that 75% of women are aware there is a difference between natural and organic ingredients. How- ever, less than a third of UK women (29%) feel they really understand what the difference is. Awareness of the dif-

photo: Christopher Edwin Nuzzaco, Shutterstock_24315862 Nuzzaco, Edwin Christopher photo: ference between natural and organic Concern over artificial ingredients is less significant with rinse-off products is highest in Sweden, accounting for

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MARKETING

Lavera create their own skin care Replacing milk products and will reformulate products with almond to include new ingredients or organic milk makes versions of new trendy products, such products vegan compliant as their organic BB Cream. Recent ad- ditions include cranberry and argan oil, pomegranate, Brazil nut and maple syrup. Milk has been replaced with al- mond milk to make products vegan compliant. Jason Natural Care claim to have launched the first gluten-free certified beauty range that meet a strict gluten- free standard and contain less than 10 ppm, as well as being fragrance-free. Despite no evidence to suggest that gluten in beauty products will cause skin irritation in coeliacs, the company maintains that there are countless photo: Volosina, Shutterstock.com Volosina, photo: tales of people suffering from skin re- actions. Their gluten free range in- 51% of women. Natural and organic is an example of new technologies cludes shampoo, conditioner, body cosmetics are considered especially combining with traditional organic in- wash, hand soap and hand & body lo- important for leave-on body care and gredients to make innovative products. tion and a gluten-free facial skin care baby care products and less so for Contrary to many other dispensers range is also in the pipeline. wash-off products such as shampoo with conventional pumping systems, and shower gel which are rinsed off the body lotion can be used without air Websites at a glance quickly so concern over artificial ingre- entering the inside of the bottle. This is BDIH www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de dients is less significant. important in ensuring consistent prod- Cosmebio www.cosmebio.org Regional variations in public per- uct quality as Weleda does not use syn- COSMOS www.cosmos-standard.org ception were spotted between North- thetic preservatives in any of its prod- Dr. Hauschka www.dr.hauschka.com ern European and Mediterranean ucts. Ecocert www.ecocert.com/en countries. The Northern European Pai Skincare with Soil Association ICEA www.icea.info group perceived natural and organic certification has its very defined skin In-Cosmetics www.in-cosmetics.com cosmetics as being more gentle, pure, mission providing a solution to a skin Jason www.jasonnaturalcare.co.uk fresh or closer to “home-made” and problem. The company has introduced Lavera www.lavera.de were more focused on ingredients, a line of bioaffinity toners designed to NaTrue www.natrue.org composition, smell and colour. The have the exact pH and biochemical NSF www.nsf.org Mediterranean group had broader con- balance of healthy skin and are rich in Pai Skincare www.paiskincare.com cerns, such as packaging, shelf-life and amino acids and minerals absorbed Soil Association www.soilassociation.org safety and marketing. from the ground while the plant itself Weleda www.weleda.com The research flagged up consider- provides good skin boosting proper- able confusion amongst consumers ties. This year’s In-Cosmetics show takes about what makes a product genuinely Dr. Hauschka takes an individual place in Barcelona on 14th–16th April. natural or organic. This was highlighted approach to examining the condition The round table discussion on natural when asked whether water should be of the skin rather than classifying skin & organic standards will take place in certified when considering whether a types, such as sensitive, dry or blem- the Marketing Trends theatre on Day 1, formulation is genuinely natural or or- ished. The 400 raw materials are, wher- 14th April. Experts will include Emma ganic. Initially, consumers thought this ever possible, certified organic or Reinhold, trade relations manager, Soil was a good idea, but were less sure af- Demeter-certified biodynamic sources, Association, Julie Tyrell, director PA, ter considering issues about water often processed by hand. Currently, the NaTrue, Amarjit Sahota, director, Or- quality and whether it would need to be company is working to replace its palm ganic Monitor and Jaclyn Bowen, direc- spring water, filtered or tap water. How- oil emulsifiers by ones made from oth- tor, NSF Agriculture, North America. ever, no added value was perceived in er raw materials. For example, it uses Topics indicating future trends will be featured at next year’s In-Cosmetics trends presentations taking place labeling water as natural or organic. glycerol from organic coconut oil in- at the Barcelona show on 14th–16th April, stead of conventional palm oil. De- www.in-cosmetics.com Innovations in natural & spite much higher prices, they consid- organic cosmetics er this a worthwhile investment as the Weleda has designed its own bag- idea of environmental protection and Imogen Matthews In-Cosmetics Consultant in-bottle system for its Wild Rose, Sea promotion of organic farming is an- Oxford Buckthorn and Citrus body lotions and chored in its company philosophy. Great Britain

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MARKETING MARKETS

New market study: Beauty salons in Germany 2014 Relatively optimistic future outlook

went to anti-ageing treatments. Treat- How is the cosmetics and beauty salon business in Germany faring at the ment with colour cosmetics and make- moment? Some interesting answers can be found in the recently completed up took fourth place with 67.2 percent. study entitled “The German cosmetics market in 2014”. Jürgen Volpp, Manag- So what services could be added for ing director of Health and Beauty Germany*, has put together some exclusive 2015? 15.8 percent of those in the busi- ness said that they would be pleased to findings for you. add nutritional programmes to their offerings. Some 10.5 percent envisaged focussing more on anti-ageing, nail de- sign and pre-treatment and/or post- treatment for cosmetic surgery. Over all only 15.2 percent of those interviewed had given this aspect seri- ous thought, and so there was relative- ly few answers to questions in this area.

Downloads

Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00350 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun

photo: Evgeny Varlamov, Shutterstock.com Varlamov, Evgeny photo: What plans have been made to ex- How do the owners and operators of beauty salons see their economic position? pand the client base? The managers or owners of beauty salons are, at 62.4 42.4 percent of the salons inter- the research institute Würtenberger percent, quite convinced that they viewed stated that they were “happy”, (FIW) in. should in future be aiming at clients in or even “very happy”, with the current 52% of those interviewed** consider the 65-plus age group. This would also market position. This was the finding the market situation to be “fairly poor” include the so-called “best agers” over of the market study The German cos- or even “poor”.When asked about fu- the age of 50 (60 percent) and those metics market in 2014, carried out by ture prospects the general view was between 30 and 49 years old (45.6 per- moderately optimistic. 59.2 percent (a cent) – according to the salon owners majority of those asked) felt that there when asked whom they would like to would not be much change in the fu- approach. Only 10.8 percent, in con- ture. 13.6 percent expect the market to trast, saw clients with medicinal skin improve in the coming months or care needs as potential new cus- years. On the other hand 27.2 percent tomers. anticipate a fall in the market. About the market research study Important aspect: In agreement with Health and Beauty specialisation as a USP Germany the FIW (Forschungs-Institut What are the dominant specialisa- Würtenberger) has carried out a market tions in beauty salons? research programme based on a random As to be expected, the majority of procedure (an internationally validated those running or owning salons have process for subject sampling) from March specialised in the standard facial care to April 2014, covering 250 interviewees programme (99.2 percent). The second from the cosmetics business who were

photo: Andreas Saldavs, Shutterstock.com Saldavs, Andreas photo: selected on a mathematically well-founded In future older clients (65+) will be speciality is hand and nail care (84.4 randomization principle. targeted with stronger promotion percent) and third place (74 percent)

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MARKETS MARKETING

product quality. In fourth place 31.6 Increase percent of salons would consider 13.6% Remaining constant changing brands if the producer insist- 27.2% Decrease ed on their holding too much stock. And what are the main problems faced by a salon? For 38 percent, i.e. a good one third of those asked, the main problem is the steadily increas- ing operating costs. 18 percent also 59.2% find the general economic situation is getting to be a serious problem, whilst 14.4 percent are finding the fierce com- petition problematical. Interestingly, however, 28.4 percent said that they About 75 percent forecast an improved market or at least a “no change” position didn’t see any particular problems Source: Health and Beauty Germany Beauty and Health Source: just now. Is the pricing structure for the servic- rials. 29.7 percent would be glad of * A trade publisher with magazines such as BEAUTY FORUM, medical BEAUTY FORUM and My BEAUTY es offered adequate? 96.4 percent, i.e. more backing and support from the BUSINESS, as well as COSSMA almost all of the beauty salons inter- sales people of the manufacturing ** 98% of those interviewed were female Further information regarding the trade publications from viewed, admitted that they make rea- company. Health and Beauty Germany can be found on the Internet sonable profits. Only 3.6 percent of And what would cause them to (see Internet panel) those asked do in fact operate in eco- switch brands? For half of those asked nomically difficult areas at minimum (i.e. 51.6 percent) it would be a good profit margins. Nobody actually stated reason to switch care product brands if Jürgen Volpp, Managing Director Health and Beauty Germany that they worked without covering their they felt badly served or let down by Karlsruhe, Germany costs. the producer’s sales reps or service juergen.volpp@health-and- 31.5 percent asked for more promo- centre. beauty.com tional support from the producers of Another reason to switch brands www.health-and-beauty.com www.beauty-forum.com the products, for example in the form would be, for 40.4 percent, a poor pric- www.medical-beautyforum.com of leaflets, or other promotional mate- ing structure, or for 38.8 percent, poor www.cossma.com

Mini Packs for Sampling & Travel Products www.rosa-heinz.de

Rosa Heinz GmbH Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen, Germany Tel.: +49 (0)8133-91859.0, Fax: +49 (0) 8133-91859.9 www.rosa-heinz.de [email protected] COS1501_24_Puchkova_GB_COS1402_22_Raddatz_GB 23.01.15 06:45 Seite 24

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MARKETING MARKETS

Russian perfumery cosmetics market Bright looking future

A part of Russia’s locally produced Tatiana Puchkova from PCAR provides a comprehensive insight into the perfumery and cosmetics is exported. Russian C&T market – one of Europe’s top 5 markets – focussing not only Russia exports to Ukraine (62.6%), to on the manufacturing and raw material landscape but also on the shift of Kyrgyzstan (22%) and to Latvia (5.6%). importance across the different sales channels. Soap production – an important pillar Promising prospects Russia attaches a significant degree for natural cosmetics of importance to soap production. Pro- Natural cosmetics are very popular duction of local manufacturers equals The lion’s share of Russia’s soap in Russia and show some very promis- 55% of general consumption. There are consumption ing prospects. Product manufacturers about 20 soap manufacturers in Russia. is produced in are continuing to exploit natural The largest manufacturers are Nevskaya Russia claims that are highly attractive for Kosmetika from St. Petersburg, Vesna consumers. According to forecasts, the from Samara, Svoboda from Moscow, growth of the natural cosmetics market Nefis Cosmetics from Kazan and Nizhe- in Russia, which began in 2011, will gorodsky Maslozhirovoy Kombinat from continue. The natural cosmetics mar- Nizhnii Novgorod. Their share in the to- ket is growing by an average of 30% per tal production of soap is more than annum. Russian manufacturers have 84%. At the same time 45% in total vol- begun to launch new product ranges. In 2011 the first Russian system of cer- Downloads tification of natural and organic cos- Additional information at metics (Bio.Rus) was established and www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00351 operates successfully on the Russian or you can just scan the QR code! market. Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun Manufacturers: Focus on mass market products ume of soap consumption is imported. At present, there are about 500 per- The share of Turkey, Ukraine, Poland fumery and cosmetics manufacturers and Germany in the total volume of im- in Russia. With 51% the majority of ported soap is 90%.

photo: Melica, Shutterstock.com Melica, photo: them are based in Moscow and the he cosmetics and personal care Moscow region. Outside this area Little amounts of raw materi- Tmarket in Russia ranks 5th in Eu- there is 24% in Siberia and Russia’s Far als are made in Russia rope, after France, Germany, the East, 17% in St. Petersburg and St. Pe- 80% of the raw materials for cos- UK and Italy, with an annual growth of tersburg region, and 8% in the south of metics and perfumery in Russia comes 11%. It was estimated at about 11.1 bil- Russia. Russian companies produce from abroad. The main distributors of lion Euros in 2013. The market is only mass market and middle market such raw materials in Russia are Russo expected to continue growing, and categories of cosmetics and perfumery. Chemie, Bang & Bonsomer, Revada, consumer habits to keep evolving. Cur- Among the top 10 Russian manu- Leko Style, Cornelius Rus, Biesterfeld, rently the Russian cosmetics and facturers are Kalina from Unilever (Eka- Milorada, Markell, Baltic Group, Azelis personal care market is gradually recov- terinburg, Moscow), Nevskaya Kos- and Nova om. ering from the 2008–2009 recession. metika (St. Petersburg), Arnest (Nevin- Fragrances, preservatives, UV fil- The Russian beauty market grew to nomyssk), Faberlic (Moscow), Pervoe ters, and tropical oils are all totally im- an estimated 10.75 billion Euros in Reshenie (Moscow), Avon (Moscow), ported. Approximately 90% of emulsi- 2012, compared to 10.43 billion Euros Mezoplast (Moscow), Svoboda fiers, waxes, calcium carbonate, as well in 2011, and is forecast to reach sales (Moscow), Unikosmetik (Moscow) and as 85% of plant oil and extracts, miner- of 12.06 billion Euros in 2015. Vesna (Samara). al oils, colorants, including natural, The main segments of the market Russian companies manufacture pigments, and high technology active care perfumed products with a share of quite a wide range of skin care and hair substances are imported. Mineral oil 23%, skin care products with 22.6%, care products mainly in a low price seg- mainly comes from India (app. 85%), hair care with 19.2% and make-up with ment and their products comprise up Indonesia, Korea and Germany. Other 15.4%. to 75% of sales volume in this sector. raw materials are produced in Russia.

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Manufacturing of surfactants is The Russian retail industry is char- quite an important area of focus for acterised by tremendous growth rates. Russia. From 2013 to 2014 Russian In fact, in 2013 retail sales grew by ap- companies produced 58,000 metric proximately 20%. Russia’s major retail- tonnes of non-ionics such as FAE and ers such as Magnit and 5 Retail Group NPE, 90,500 tonnes of anionics such as have just reported promising results SLES, SLS and LABSA, and 4,000 for the 1st quarter of 2014. According to tonnes of amphoterics such as BET, these, the retail sales growth is 25%, AO, DEA. The main Russian producers thus demonstrating consumer confi- of surfactants are Norchem, Kirishi-Nef- dence and purchasing power. teorgsintez, Nizhnekamsk-Neftechim, In addition to national retail chains VNIIPAV, Aminochim. some 25 regional specialized retailers Russian companies produce differ- operate in the market. The biggest are ent active substances: plant oil and ex- Seven days in Voronezh, Novex in

tract (incl. CO2), keratin, hyaluronic Siberia, Podruzhka in Moscow and Al- acid, collagen, chitin, chitosan, natural pari in Tatarstan. In parallel, the drug- pigments and colorants and new deliv- store format has been developing rap- ery systems based on a nano-approach idly. In October 2012, the number of have all appeared. drugstores increased by 25% over the photo: Nito, Shutterstock.com Nito, photo: previous year. Among the biggest mar- With 23%, skin care takes the biggest Premium cosmetics ket players are Magnit Kosmetik, Po- share in Russia’s C&T market mainly imported druzhka, OI!Good and Yuzhny Dvor. This Russia’s perfumery and cosmetics retail format is expected to be charac- Growing sector: market significantly depends on im- terized by one of the most dynamic Beauty salons and spas ports. According to RBC Research the developments over the coming years. The beauty salons, spa and centres import value in Russia in 2011 reached Moscow with some 800 sales points of aesthetic medicine sector is rapidly about 2,864.8 million Euros. The Im- is the leader in specialized retail and growing, not only in central cities but ports mainly come from France, Ger- the number of specialized retail outlets also in all regions of Russia. These or- many and Poland. Together these is expected to continue growing in ganizations work with professional countries deliver one third of the cos- the near future. This is accompanied, cosmetics manufactured in France, metics imported into Russia. Premium however, by a significant concentration Switzerland and Japan. Recently, some and luxury level cosmetics in Russia of retailers. In selective distribution, professional cosmetic lines from the are all totally imported. For the past 3 the three major retail networks, i.e. USA have been introduced, too. Prod- years, distributors have been paying L’Étoile, Île de Beauté and Rive Gauche, ucts from Russian companies only more attention to companies from are dominating the market, in particu- constitute 10% of this segment. Asia: China, Japan and Korea. lar in Moscow and St. Petersburg, and Russia imports as much as 95% of are extending their network nationally. What to expect in the future make-up products (lip products, eye The Russian cosmetics and per- make-up, powder, foundation) and nail Direct sales decline while fumery market, characterized by a care. Between 2009 and 2013 this seg- Internet marketing is thriving steady growth, has a promising future. ment has been increasing and has now Direct sales excluding Internet Consumers will continue to become stabilized. During this time the import sales have been declining while health more sophisticated, making retailers of fragrances and skin care products and beauty retail chains and grocery and manufacturers explore new ways grew by 15%. This process will continue retail channels have seen continuous of communicating with their target au- due to the fact that Russia joined the consolidation, with the largest retail dience and meeting their expectations. WTO and rates of import customs du- players increasing their market pres- All the achievements of the Russian ties were reduced. For example in 2010, ence. The number of beauty retail out- cosmetic industry are presented at the for decorative lip make-up products lets increased by 24.2% in comparison annual international exhibition Inter- the rate was 15%. In 2016 this rate will to the previous year. Russia, with over Charm which has been the largest per- amount to only 6.5%. 53 million people, is the largest target fumery and cosmetic exhibition in Rus- group for Internet marketing in Eu- sia, CIS and Eastern Europe for the last Shifting importance rope. Mobile phone penetration here 20 years. of different sales channels is among the highest in the world. Be- This article is based on materials provided by http://research.rbc.ru/, www.intercharm.net/ The most important sales channels yond using digital media to advertise www.cosmeticsrussia.livejournal.com and www.pcar.ru for cosmetics in Russia are specialized and promote products, companies use Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel retail chains, including drugstores, it to overcome the poor infrastructure. amounting to 41% of the sales, and di- The specialized delivery and pick-up Tatiana Puchkova rect sales reaching nearly 25% of the services mentioned above incorporate Head of board, PCAR – share in sales. In contrast to this, in mobile tracking of orders and text mes- Perfumery and Cosmetics Associ- ation of Russia, Moscow, Russia comparison to 10 years ago the role of saging alerts to notify customers when [email protected] open markets has decreased. and where pick-ups are available. www.pcar.ru

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ion and longer term protection, Gold shows the way Wu-Zhu-Yu extract from traditional Chi- nese medicine for an even complexion. Pongamia oil from the seeds of the Gold is seen as pure luxury, and so it is no surprise that anti-aging products that pongamia tree is rich in saturated fatty use the gold „magic“ are hotly sought after. Le Crème Parfaite 3 Ors by Carita acids and strongly nourishes the skin. combines 2 unusual technologies: GolDNA-Technology and the 3-Fach Gold It also protects the skin from UVA Complex – and earns our Star of the Month. and UVB radiation. AM

he Crème Parfaite 3 Ors is based The 3-Fach Gold Complex in the Ton two innovative technologies: cream consists of 3 components: min- the GolDNA technology with ma- eral gold, plant gold and biological rine polysaccharides and the 3-Fach gold. The mineral gold is real 24 carat Gold Complex as a shield against free gold combined with gold coloured radicals. pearls, to reflect the light and visually In recent years deep hydrothermal brighten the skin. Plant gold is saffron, sources have been researched where the most valuable herb in the world. It the micro- and macroscopic marine life is rich in crocin, an anti-oxidant caroti- forms contain unique polysaccharides noid that protects the skin from un- of great interest for skin care. The poly- healthy exposure. Biological gold con- saccharide selected for the new cream sists of extracts from gold micro-algae in the GolDNA technology helps to ac- which protect the skin from free radi- Carita photo: tivate 14 key genes in the skin which cals and reduce collagen breakdown in are very important for the synthesis of the skin. Cream with a luxurious texture and an attrac- youth proteins. The product works in In addition the product contains tive fragrance contains, among other ingredi- the dermis and the epidermis. Albizia extract for a glowing complex- ents, mineral, plant and biological gold

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PRODUCTION LEGAL POINTS

Where do we draw the line? tional medicinal product with a phar- macological action, the European Court of Justice decided it was suffi- cient that it reacts with the cellular The A to Z of contents of the body of the user – here chlorohexidine and micro-organisms using a mouthwash. According to Dr. Christian Weidner cosmetics of LGL Oberschleissheim it should be noted that only legally regulated sub- stances are evaluated toxicologically Questions of definition in cosmetics frequently have to and, as a result, included in the EU be handled case by case rapid alert system (RAPEX), as is, for instance, the banned active hydro- quinone in skin lightening creams. ß-Arbutin as a hydroquinone release agent has also been considered as un- safe by the SCCS, but it has so far not been banned. Only the legislators can decide whether a desirable physiologi- cal action, undesirable or seriously un- desirable effect or a significant phar- macological medicinal action (if so with adverse side effects) is evident by first assessing the product SCCS dossiers and then amending the sub- photo: Africa StudioAfrica photo: stance to annexes II or III of the cos- If cosmetic products contain actives that are mainly intended for medici- metics directive. nal products, medical devices or biocides, are these still cosmetic Dr. Petra Wirth of Alpha Chem went products? Where are the lines drawn? Answers to these questions were into the use of essential oils in cosmet- ics and their use in functional medicinal put forward at the 5th Karlsruhe Cosmetics Congress which took place products. The categorisation here de- th th on December 9 and 10 2014, with 140 participants from Germany, pends on the action of the essential Austria and Switzerland. Dr. Gerd Mildau of the CVUA summarises the oils and their concentration. Using most important findings. concrete examples with set percent- ages of spruce needle oil, eucalyptus oil, peppermint oil or thymian oil, and carrying out certain quasi medicinal atthias Ibel of the IKW ex- growth promoters and doll’s make-up, actions such as “a rubbing oil (medici- Mplained how European legis- but it is a guideline and not a legal nal) compared with breast balsam lators defined cosmetics, me- requirement. (cosmetic)”, or “joint balsam (medical) dicinal products and medical devices, The situation is very similar with compared with horse gel (cosmetic)” and biocides. For cosmetics there are biocidal products. In the current draft she showed clearly just how complex two clear criteria: the place of applica- a guideline is still open regarding the borderline decision and the safety tion and the intended primary func- whether sun protection with insect re- assessment of cosmetics with essen- tion of the product. The first criterion pellent should be, in the future, regard- tial oils can be. With cosmetics it is al- is quite clear, while for the second the ed and categorised as a sun screen so necessary to be sure that the legal recommendation is for border-line product with a repellent or simply as a requirements of the EU-CPR and the products to examine all of the prod- biocide. IFRA (International Fragrance Associa- uct’s characteristics closely. Dr. Andreas Reinhart from the Mey- tions) guidelines are followed. Unfortunately, cosmetics law does er.Rechtsanwälte supplied numerous In an interdisciplinary cooperation not offer any ready-made solutions. examples from current legal decisions on the subject of bust-increasing prod- This is why the EU Commission, based regarding classification of substances. ucts on the Internet, Evamaria Kratz, Ju- on an extension of the EU cosmetics The Bavarian higher administrative lia Hengen and Dr. Dirk Lachenmeier of regulation (Art. 2 (4)), wishes to define court thus confirmed that a skin care the CVUA Karlsruhe presented prod- the categories of cosmetic products cosmetic could have a secondary (pre- ucts that made misleading claims such which are relevant for the application ventive) purpose, in particular a less as “firmer, bigger breasts”, or that con- of this regulation. The current border- important aim, as long as its main pur- tained actives that had a significant line manual for cosmetics names a pose is recognised and understood pharmacological action. Extracts from large number of different products, by a reasonably informed consumer. the Pueraria mirifica plant were used, such as wigs, tooth whiteners, eye-lash When assessing if a product is a func- and contained Miroestrol as a sub-

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LEGAL POINTS PRODUCTION

stance with an oestrogen-like action. hair growth treatments with minoxidil Sometimes standard doses of Miro- (in cosmetic hair care products the mi- estrol extracts with more than 20mg/ noxidil derivative diaminopyrimidine 100 grams are applied. To what extent approved up to 1.5% according to Miroestrol can be judged as a sub- Appendix III). Keratolytic ointments stance with an oestrogen-like action with 15 to 20% urea are permitted as and, as a consequence, would be medicinal products whereas products banned, is still outstanding. Another with 5 to 10% urea are placed on the product, that was spoken of, contained market as cosmetics. skin-firming peptides and caffeine Dr. Matthias Kohl-Himmelseher of the CVUA Karlsruhe covered the great- ly varied product group of disinfec-

Downloads Meiss Angelika photo: tants. By the term – disinfectants – Additional information can be found 140 participants at the German speaking event brought at www.health-and-beauty.com/ we mean that the germs have to be themselves up to date on the extensive topics that may qr00337 reduced by at least 5 powers of ten. have to be considered in case of definition or cataloguing or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: Actives include precipitation of protein User name: cossma2 Password: sun by ethanol or formaldehyde solutions; synthetic cannabinoids, the therapeu- caustic substances like acids and tic use fails. The reviewed safety as- which is claimed to have a lipolytic ac- bases; oxidising materials like chlorine sessments were, in any case, inade- tion in the sub-cutis. On this basis it is or quaternary ammonium compounds; quate since their safety was finally ap- frequently used in anti-cellulite prod- or bactericides such as phenol. Be- proved with the help of the TTC ucts. In terms of bust enhancers, it is cause there is no common disinfectant (Threshold of Toxicological Concern). still not clear why this active is used legislation, the various categories are The SCCS (Scientific Committee on here. With a caffeine concentration decided by their main objective, i.e. Consumer Safety), however, does not of 6% the MoS (Margin of Safety) pharmaceuticals if used on the body foresee this approach for pharmaco- with 37.5 was clearly below the safety such as surgical hand disinfectant; logical substances. level of 100. medical devices used for catheters or The presentation by Prof. Dr. Dr.- Oliver El-Atma and Jörg Schüssler EKG electrode disinfectant; biocides Ing. Jürgen Lademann of Charité in from the CVUA Karlsruhe presented for disinfecting flat surfaces such as Berlin concerned “Medicinal Sun Pro- products which, before 1978, were ficti- furniture, swimming pool areas or gen- tection: Infrared Protection and Critical tiously registered as medicinal prod- eral household products, bathrooms Radical Concentration in the Skin”. He ucts in a simplified process and whose etc. Cosmetic handcleansing products asked why, when formulating modern subsequent authorisation was either are not disinfectants, but the primary solar protection products, the critical refused or not pursued. From an eco- cleansing function can be amended by radical concentration in the skin can- nomic viewpoint the idea may have subsidiary disinfection activities. not be incorporated. Previously, solar been to save on approval costs or be- Gregor Özelt of AGES in Vienna protection has been limited to the ab- cause the marketing route was stricter sketched out the problem of sorption of UV radiation. Now it has for cosmetics. Concrete examples for prostaglandins in eyelash growth pro- been seen that free radicals,harmful to cosmetics include earlier neuroder- moters and mascaras. Prostaglandins the skin produce up to 50% in IR radia- matitis creams with a high level of are endogenic tissue hormones which tion and 39% in the VIS range, and on- urea, sports creams with camphor, are approved for glaucoma therapy ly up to 0.5% in UVB radiation and 6.4% cooling creams with eucalyptus oil, an- (raised level of inner eye pressure as a in the UVA range. The critical radical ti-louse shampoo, circulatory products risk element for cataracts). Synthetic concentrations – according to the lat- and anti-dandruff shampoo. equivalents such as Bimatoprost have est findings – are regarded as an im- Prof. Dr. Clemens Allgaier of ACA fewer side effects, one of which is in- portant bodily constant. If they are Pharma Concept showed some cata- creased growth of the eyelashes. In the exceeded it will initially lead to skin logue cases regarding medical devices USA, Bimatoprost is approved as a me- ageing. Because VIS/IR filters are un- (MD). MDs are distinguished by physi- dicinal product for the treatment of suitable for solar protection (because cal and physico-chemical effects, but eyelash hypotrichosis (lack of strong of their colour) it is recommended to (unlike pharmaceuticals) may not have lashes), but not in the EU. In the USA use antioxidant radical scavengers in a main physiological action with signif- and in Sweden cosmetic products were addition to UV filters. icant pharmacological, metabolic or noticed which contained isopropyl Further information on the subjects of absorption of ac- tives via the skin and nutricosmetics (in English) and on immunological effects. cloprostenate, another synthetic com- the subjects of efficacy testing, silver-nanolipid carriers, and peelings (in German), as well as a selection of photo- Medical devices are, for example, pound. Cosmetics for eyelash growth graphs of the event can be found on the Internet tooth whiteners with more than 6% hy- containing this prostaglandin derivate (see Internet panel) drogen peroxide (lower amounts are could not therefore be categorised as Dr. Gerd Mildau regarded as cosmetics); wound dress- functional medicinal products unless Head of the cosmetics central ings containing silver; syringes con- evidence of a significant pharmacolog- laboratory at the chemical and taining hyaluronic acid; isotonic nasal ical action is provided; or in the light of veterinary investigation office (CVUA) in Karlsruhe, Germany sprays; and silicone oil to prevent lice. the European Court of Justice reports [email protected] Medicinal products are, for example, (“Legal Highs”) on herbal blends with www.cvua-karlsruhe.de

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PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS

Natural skin care with berry wax “Berry good!”

Presenting recent study results, Martina Heldermann illustrates the advantages of natural Berry wax in contrast to traditionally used waxes.

Rhus Verniciflua tree. Berry wax is a Approximately 2 hours after applica- creamy white-coloured wax with a high tion the film is gone and the TEWL re-

amount of glycerol ester of C16-18 fatty balances to the previous level. Shea acid. butter, often used as moisturizing ad- Because a significant part of it ditive without any film-forming proper- melts at temperatures < 30°C, berry ties, was used as positive control. Be- wax feels as silky and soft as a classic cause berry wax is very slowly absorbed emollient. In addition, it creates soft by the skin it prolongs the active time Berry wax improves the tactile properties of emul- textures and significantly improves the of formulations. Therefore it is particu- sions and reduces TEWL sensory characteristics of O/W emul- larly suitable for massage products but sions. also for rich body creams or color

photo: Mona Makela, Shutterstock.com Makela, Mona photo: 2% Berry wax was added to a simple cosmetic formulations. O/W emulsion. In a double-blind study There is a variety of waxes tradition- rom the broad variety of skin care 100 volunteers were asked to evaluate ally used in cosmetic application products available most formula- specific parameters concerning the F Downloads tions are emulsion-based and skin feel and sensory behaviour of two nowadays tend to be oil-in-water sys- formulations (see fig.). The volunteers Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ tems. Adding waxes to the oil phase noticed that the formulation contain- qr00352 will significantly increase specific grav- ing berry wax had a more pleasant tex- or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: ity but will, almost certainly, influence ture and was more easily spread. The User name: cossma2 the appearance, texture, and skin wax improves the tactile properties of Password: sun feel of the end product. Commonly emulsions and provides a luxurious, which are appreciated for their ordi- known and widely-used waxes such as creamy, and nurturing skin feel thanks nary properties. But there are options beeswax and candelilla wax are known to its re-fatting properties. Further- and possibilities beyond that. Even for their sticky, heavy, and dull sensori- more it reduces Trans Epidermal Water standard waxes such as candelilla, car- al properties. Carnauba wax, with its Loss (TEWL) by forming a semi-occlu- nauba, and beeswax have a broader relatively high melting point, requires sive, protective film on the skin’s sur- range of application than is commonly a long melting time at elevated tem- face. Even though it does not actively taken advantage of. Furthermore there peratures (around 90°C) so that the moisturise the skin it reduces TEWL are waxes from domestic or exotic oil phase may become overheated and therefore provides a healthy, epi- plants that have outstanding, yet not and burn. dermal moisture level. as widely known, properties. But other waxes with their extra- 20 minutes after applying an O/W Any formulation can benefit from ordinary sensorial properties were cream containing 3% wax or butter the the natural berry wax. Because it starts specifically designed for use in O/W TEWL was elevated due to the evapora- melting at body temperature it is the emulsions. One example is Kahlwax tion of water from the formulation. As preferred additive for skin care emul- 6290, a so-called berry wax1. This fruit long as berry wax is not completely ab- sions. It significantly improves the tex- peel wax is obtained by boiling wax sorbed by the skin it forms a protective ture and sensory characteristics of O/W containing berries from the East Asian layer and reduces the loss of moisture. emulsions and enriches anhydrous systems such as lip balm formulations, body balms and butters. 1INCI: Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera The test formulation, a body cream formulation, graphs and additional product information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel

Martina Heldermann International Technical and Sales Manager, Kahlwax Hamburg, Germany photo: Kahl photo: [email protected] Sensory analysis: paired comparison of an O/W emulsion with and without 2% berry wax www.kahlwax.de

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THE LEADING GLOBAL BUSINESS EVENT FOR PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS

Source new ingredients and technologies Barcelona from 680+ suppliers from 40+ countries 14-16 April Broaden your expertise with 100+ hours of free education and exclusive scientific and regulatory workshops 2015 Visit the extended ‘Fragrance in Cosmetics’ and ‘Testing & Regulation’ Zones

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PRODUCTION NEW INGREDIENTS

Oily skin under control NEWS Lipotec I The blue ingredient Matmarine, the latest development of Lipotec, minimises imperfections associated to increased pres- Ingredients ence of sebum that characterizes this skin type, such as spots, en- larged pores and predisposition to pimples and acne. The activity of the new biotechnological active ingredient decreases the protein Protecting the epigenome levels of melanocortin-5 receptor (MC5-C), as shown in vitro, a key promoter found in mature sebocytes, major cells in the sebaceous Silab I Epigenomyl is an anti-ageing active ingredient that limits glands and responsible modification to the epigenome resulting from the passing of time for sebum secretion and external factors, thus allowing cutaneous cells to better re- and lipids storage. In spond to stress and live longer. With its global action, the addition the active regu- active boosts the mechanisms involved in epigenetic regulation: lates genes related to in- modification of histones and miRNA expression. It also normal- flammatory and anti-ox- izes procollagen I synthesis and preserves the organization of idative processes linked elastin and fibrillin 1 fibres. Rich in calendula flower oligosaccha- to increased sebum se- rides, it smoothes the skin’s cretion. It is an extracel- micro-relief, reduces wrin- lular polymeric sub- kles and increases skin stance born of bio- tone. www.silab.fr processes from a

Pseudoalteromonas Shutterstock.com Accord, photo: strain developed The marine active minimises imperfections The anti-ageing through Biointec. associated with increased presence of active is rich in www.lipotec.com sebum calendula flower photo: Snowbelle, Shutterstock Snowbelle, photo: oligosaccharides smoothing the skin’s micro-relief Biologically active hepta-peptide

Reducing skin irritation in cleansing products Mibelle PerfectionPeptide P7 is a bio- Croda Cromollient SCE has been shown to reduce skin irri- I I logically active hepta-peptide that stimulates tation caused by surfactants in cleansing products. An in-vivo the skin’s own self-defence mechanisms study was carried out showing against oxidative stress at the cellular level. that this emollient does not In cell culture assays, it clearly stimulated cause any skin irritation and can the expression of detoxifying enzymes. In reduce the irritation of SLS on ex-vivo experiments and clinical trials the the skin with only a 1% usage peptide has shown an ability to signifi- level. A second study looked at cantly protect the skin from oxidative the irritation reduction potential stress at the cellular level. of post-adding the ingredient to www.mibellebiochemistry.com 3 commercial body washes at a 5% usage level. In the in-vitro study, skin irritation was de- creased by a minimum of 20% Stimulating the skin’s own photo: Hasloo Group Production Studio, Production Shutterstock.com Group Hasloo photo: with all formulations containing Meeting the growing con- Minerva Studio,photo: Shutterstock.com self-defence mechanisms the emollient. sumer need for mild and www.crodapersonalcare.com gentle cleansing products

Mineral origin Rahn I Fossil peeling powder is a medium granulometry powder with excellent cosmetic properties and skin compatibility. It helps to remove superficial dead skin cells, stimulate cell renewal, rejuvenate new skin cells underneath, eliminate impurities, improve skin texture and smoothness as well as restoring the skin’s natural radiance and complexion. Due to its mineral origin it is an ideal alternative to synthetic peeling particles. www.rahngroup.com

From the protective shells of diatoms that created a sediment on the sea floor millions of years ago photo: Syda Productions, Shutterstock.com Productions, Syda photo:

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MARCH 2015 TH ND 19 -22 COSMOPACK BOLOGNA (ITALY) FAIR DISTRICT www.cosmoprof.com

Organiser - SoGeCos s.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 fax +39.02.795.036 - [email protected] - company of in cooperation with COS1501_34_Luxe_Nachlese_GB_COS1402_24_Rahn_D 23.01.15 06:52 Seite 34

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PRODUCTION EVENTS

Luxe Pack review All the elements of pure luxury

the tube offers a vast range of metallic Advances in dose size application, new dispensing ideas, sustainable effects and, thanks to a new seaming packaging solutions and natural refined decorative techniques were the process and 360° printing, the side basic ideas behind the new luxury products shown at the Luxe Pack 2014 seam is virtually invisible and almost in Monaco. imperceptible to the touch. The tube’s carbon footprint is reduced by 11%* compared with a conventional alu- minium laminate tube and by 33%* compared with a plastic tube covered with a metallised label. photo: Pochet photo: photo: Seidel photo:

Creative possibilities for the internal design of the glass distribution inside the bottle

WV’s Amplify is an airless so- The ergonomic spatula is then used to Digital printing allows greater design Mlution that combines the blend the two together and apply the freedom for aluminium packaging convenience of a pump-on- activated mixture. a-tube with the protection and soft ac- Albéa’s Plastic Barrier Laminate The main new feature of the make-up tuation of the company’s patented (PBL) tube Reflexion has a web struc- range presented by Pujolasos has been Rolling Bellow technology. The pump ture with multiple metallic effects. Due the design of a new eyelash mascara provides consumers with a comfort- to its bounce-back properties similar and refillable packaging for more eco- able, easy delivery; consistent and con- to conventional plastic tubes, the tube logical lipstick. Slim Mascara, the new trolled dispensing; product protection returns to its original shape once any range of eyelash mascara was devel- and a convenient, hygienic, on-the-go pressure has been released. Thanks to oped with the company’s own mould experience. Albéas specifically developed process, and the plastic design was conceived Quadpack’s two-week programme concept is based around the Yonwoo’s Luxe Pack Monaco 2014: at a glance mini Airless Syringe housed, with 14 Scheduled for the first time at the start of the week, 8,525 visitors attended the 27th acrylic mini jars for facial cream and a Luxe Pack Monaco 2014, 15% more than in 2013. 46% of the visitors were French, with the zamak alloy spatula, all inside a luxury 54% international visitors coming from 71 countries. Over 400 exhibitors were present this year coffret. Each day, the consumer opens at the Grimaldi Forum, with 52 companies exhibiting for the first time, representing 12% of the a new jar and adds a 0.12cc drop of the total. Many innovations were unveiled exclusively on the stands, in the Luxe Pack Innovation 2 ml syringe containing a serum with, Forum and Luxe-Pack-in-green showcases and in the various conferences proposed over the for example, an anti-ageing formula, a three days. vitamin C booster or a pore minimiser. The 28th Luxe Pack Monaco will take place from 21–23 October 2015

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EVENTS PRODUCTION

Prize for eco-conceived initiative Decoration up close Seidel showed that decorative tech- Prize-winning This year the cosmetic jar T-eco from Euro Cosmetic Asia, niques could be used to produce associated to Sanyo Chemical, won the Luxe Pack in Green refillable unique and very sustainable effects on cosmetics jar Award which rewards the best eco-conceived initiative. This cosmetic jar was completely eco-designed: a reduced 40% aluminium. Using their technique it is of plastic, fully recyclable, reusable and refillable. Its sim- also possible to print colour blends ple replacement design enables an easy removal with only and photo-realistic images. Whilst dig- 2 fingers, thus providing a suitable answer to customers. In ital printing is already available for addition, the over-moulding injection and in-mould labelling plastics, this technique for aluminium technique protect the decoration with anti-counterfeit and is available only from Seidel. scenic images. This year the jury wanted to reward a Jury’s The new process used for Pochet du photo: Euro Cosmetic Asia Euro photo: Favourite to Heinz Glas initiative for the construction of a tropical greenhouse in the middle of Franconia. It is fuelled by the recovery of heat from Courval’s state-of-the-art bottle, Eole furnaces, providing the population with exotic fruits and fishes. Other nominees were: Green offers a large variety of creative possi- Leaf from Albéa, Carta Crusca from Favini, Go green collection from LF Beauty and Absolute green bilities for the internal design of the line from Sparflex. glass distribution inside the bottle. The new technology allows movement to come with a wooden cover. The plas- shaped discs and conical bristles for and shape to create new visual effects tic part has been designed with PP ma- optimum application, and an im- when combined with surface effects terial to achieve the most sustainable proved formulation reservoir. Thanks to the shrink sleeve process used for this cigar-shaped packaging, all-over decoration is possible with up to 10 colours across 360° using multi-colour printing. CatwalkLashes provides a

photo: Quadpack photo: 180° arrangement of the bristles and discs around the core. Its bristle tip

lifts up even the smallest hairs. Due to Pujolasos photo: The refillable lipstick saves consumer costs and boosts the sustainable trend in packaging products

like engraving, textures and decora- tion. Packaging concept for personalised Solev’s liquid metallization creating treatment plans metallic transparencies and vibrant colours is currently available in four material possible. The lipstick is a re- levels of complexity: multicolored and fillable product to save consumer costs transparent applications set off by del- and boost the sustainable trend in icate mother-of-pearl effects, combi-

packaging products. photo: Geka nation with silk-screening creating subtle reliefs beneath the metalliza- Geka’s Luxe Pack Collection with different tion, combination with laser cutting applicators and surface finishes for pack- aging of lip, eye and lash products and 360° engravings and combination with sublimation to play on vibrant its glitter masterbatch finishing time- colours. AM consuming, costly lacquering is unnec- *LCA study conducted by SimaPro essary. Inline hot foil printing facili- **The laser marking process is still in the pilot phase tates quick delivery times. The 2K soft flock applicator is adapted to the Webtipps shape of the lips. Conventional silver www.albea-group.com www.eurocosmeticasia.com silk screen printing as well as patented www.favini.com haptic 3D silk screen printing are com- www.heinz-glas.com bined for a sensitive effect on the bot- www.geka-world.com tle and cap. The slim flocked Definition- www.groupe-pochet.fr photo: Albéa photo: Liner applicator is as soft as a brush www.lfbeauty.com Tube with brilliant metallic effects and as precise as an eyeliner tip. It is www.luxepack.com and bounce-back properties ideal for any clutch bag thanks to the www.mwv.com new MiniMax packaging. The shimmer- www.pujolasos.com Geka’s LashGlory which is part of the ing lilac masterbatch with a new pig- www.quadpack.com www.seidel.de company’s Luxe Pack Collection of ap- ment combined with a scratch-proof www.solev.com plicators and different packaging fin- laser marking process** provides an www.sparflex.com ishings, features a bristle tip, wedge- almost metallized appearance.

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PRODUCTION PACKAGING NEWS

Mini-pump for glass and NEWS plastic Albéa I Sofix is the only sample on the market with a Packaging mini-pump that fits both plastic and glass bottles thanks to its patented fixing system. In its plastic bottle version (1.2 ml), it makes the distribution of high numbers of Samples for lipsticks and serums samples possible in stores, keeping the cost per contact between brand and end consumer to a minimum. The Bioplan Traditional lipstick samples lack pertinence, practicability and I sample can be customized using conventional decora- are often unhygienic: for example, applying the lipstick to the back of your tion processes, with customer colours, hot stamping hand, using your fingertips, or dipping a brush into a small pot which has and silk screening. For visual appeal, the plastic bottle already been used many times. The new shaped sampler is made up of a is also available in clear PP. In its glass bottle version small spatula with the lipstick hot moulded onto the end, covered with a (1.5 ml) which can be customized with a standard, gold one-use disposable blister pack. or platinum varnish, it is the luxury solution. As both ver- The mini drop counter Minidrip is a new solution for kits for the serum and sions have the same dimensions, switching between essential oils market. New on the monodose market, this mini drop counter them has no im- provides precise dosage or application. Once the stopper is undone, the pact on second- rubber bulb is squeezed to remove the air, release the bulb to draw in the ary packaging. exact dosage, and then the syringe bulb is pressed to release the product. The pump fits both the plastic Sample for serums and and the glass essential version. oils

The pump with the SP5K engine delivers good Lipstick test- Albéa photo: spray quality ing with opti- mal hygienic Bioplan photos: conditions

40th Emballage: 85,774 visitors Emballage I 85,774 visitors, of which 36% from outside France, came to this year’s “Emballage” packaging exhibition, that took place in Paris from the 19th to the 22nd of November. They were able to update themselves on the latest products from the 1,300 exhibitors as well as 500 other brands being presented. As part of a programme of other events in the exhibition was a mini show entitled I love Pack – since 1947, also there was the Forum Pack Innovation with 11 prizewinning innovations, plus a display by six inter- national design colleges called Unusual packaging and alternatives. Numerous delegations from outside of France were received, including groups from Japan, China, Taiwan, Turkey, Russia, Poland, Moldova, Tunisia and Germany. Altogether there were visitors and exhibitors from over 100 countries all firmly established in the Emballage photo: New approaches to packaging were presented EMEA zone. th th by students from design colleges in 6 different The next “Emballage” takes place from November the 17 to the 20 , 2016. countries

11 th PCD and 9th ADF in Paris PCD, ADF I The 11th PCD – Packaging of Perfume, Cosmetics & Design – and the 9th ADF – Aerosol & Dispensing Forum – will take place on February 4th and 5th 2015 at the Espace Champerret in Paris. The show will bring together some 4.000 brand packaging experts from around 70 countries who will meet over 250 exhibitors and attend the presentations of approximately 90 speakers. The main theme of the con- ference and exhibition remains sustainability. The PCD Awards ceremony takes place on February 5th at 3.15 p.m.

The winners of the PCD Awards 2014 photo: PCD photo:

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SERVICES INGREDIENTS

Essential oils: Current import prices in €/kg January / February 2015

Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies 44.00 stabilised at a higher price Prices ar ex-works Germany, Anethol from star anis 17.50 stabilised at an easier level customs cleared in the EU Note: The €/$ exchange rate has an Bergamot “Reggio“ 87.50 stable with firm impact on several prices and undertones at times has a greater impact than percentage price changes at Buchu leaf “Betulina“ 350.00–590.00 unchanged source. Cananga 69.00 somewhat firmer Caraway seed, Balkan, Holland 38.50 unchanged Cassia, China 37.50–50.00 stable with firm undertone Cedarwood, China 15.00 firm Menthol, India, known brands 15.50 volatile, prices may Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia 23.00 firm change day to day, local Cedarwood, Texas 21.00 firm deals are fairly scarce Celery seed, India 94.00 somewhat weaker and expensive Citronella, China, 85/35% 19.50 stabilised Mint (Pepp. arv.), China 14.00 volatile, prices may Citronella, Java, 85/35% 19.00 stabilised change day to day, local Clove leaf, Madagascar 17.50–20.00 somewhat weaker deals are fairly scarce Coriander 105.00–120.00 much firmer, with good and expensive quality hard to find Mint (Pepp. arv.), India 14.00 volatile, prices may Dill, Balkan 33.00–41.00 almost no movement change day to day, local Eucalyptol, min. 99% (1.8 cineol) 17.00 unchanged deals are fairly scarce Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 18.50 without much movement and expensive Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 18.50 without much movement Nutmeg, Indonesia 84.00–95.00 weak Eucalyptus, China, 80/85% 13.50 unchanged Nutmeg, Sri Lanka 78.00–90.00 weak Eucalyptus staigeriana 25.00 firm Orange, bitter, Brazil 57.50 still firm Fennel oil, seed 33.50–62.00 steady Orange, Brazil 4.80–5.25 stabilised Geranium, Egypt 90.00 easier Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP 5.25–5.70 now still stable Geranium, China 155.00 very firm Palmarosa, East Indies, min. 90% 35.00 still no clear direction Ginger, India/Cochin 160.00 stable, tending to weaken Parsley seed 165.00 steady, unchanged Grapefruit, white 26.50–45.00 still firm Patchouli, Sumatra extra 80.00 still easing a little Guaiacwood, Paraguay 21.00 unchanged Pepper, India 100.00–130.00 weak Howood, min. 85% 35.00–45.00 unchanged, but good Peppermint, American 65.00–78.00 still steady, firm undertone quality is very scarce Peppermint, Indian 25.00 stabilised Juniper berry 210.00–450.00 steady Petitgrain, Paraguay 45.00 very scarce, very firm Lavandin abrialis 28.00 same level as before Rosemary, North Africa, nom. 45.00 scarce and expensive harvest Morocco/Tunisia Lavandin grosso 27.00 same level as before Rosewood, Brazil nom. 350.00 sporadic availability of harvest, but hard to find small quantities (CITES) Lavender, Bulgaria 105.00 prices even higher Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30% 75.00 stable following poor harvest Sandalwood, India nom. 2,800.00 very firm, legally sold oil Lavender, France, 40/42% 130.00 same level as before almost unavailable harvest and almost all sold Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 55.00–57.00 firm Lemon, Messina, winter harvest 42.00 tending to weaken Spearmint, Indian, 60% 25.00 stabilised Lemon grass, Cochin, min. 75% 17.00 a bit firmer Spruce needle, Siberia 23.50 unchanged, Limette, distilled, nom. 47.00 tending to weaken slightly very attractive! Mexico/West Indies Star anis, China 15.00 practically unchanged Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75% 19.00 a bit firmer Vetiver, Haiti 190.00 basically unchanged Menthol, China, BP/DAB 14.00 very volatile, prices Vetiver, Java 140.00 significant increase

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SERVICES FORMULATIONS

Complexion In our March issue we will be de- voting our review to formula- tions for skin cleansing and colour cosmetics. April is and colour then the turn of masks, packagings and peel- ings. An attractive complexion and colour cosmetics is, for many women, All of the data have been simply a “must”. And so much better if there is a selection of interest- assembled with the greatest of care but nei- ing products to choose from that will make the daily facial care routine ther the magazine nor the developers of these for- even more pleasant. The ability to select the products from about 30 mulations can accept any responsibility for their cor- formulations, shows how the creative ingredients suppliers have come rectness or safety. up with some interesting solutions. Would you like to know a bit more about which ingredients you can use to help you in this task? On our website at www.health-and-beauty.com/qr00353* you can, totally free of charge, download the most interesting formulations.

lively complexion is the wish there is also something for the possi- Which formulations in our selection A of many women. A formula- ble need to reduce the facial colour a offer ideas that go somewhat further tion that meets this wish is little – the QD Whitening Revolution than normal skin care cream? To pep BASF’s Youthful Radiance Enhancer. from Seppic. up the facial skin CLR has a Jelly Facial And for those who want a little more Gel Mask and Zschimmer & Schwarz help with their colour Bayer suggests Downloads offer their Remineralising Mask. Cu- the Long Wear Water-in-Silicone Foun- Additional information can be found cumbers are an important factor when at www.health-and-beauty.com/ dation, Croda has the Smoothing Sure qr00353 used in facial masks, and now Pro- Stay Foundation and Floratech has the or you can just scan the QR code! tameen has a Cucumber Facial Scrub. Your access codes for February: All-Day-Long Concealer as an option. User name: cossma2 Password: sun *Access codes to download the formulations can be For ladies from the Far or Middle East found on the Internet panel on this page.

Natural Youth Elixir Extra Clear Hydrating Tonic Simply Light Cream A. Brasca Dr. Straetmans Lucas Meyer Healthy Skin Serum Gel Soft Matte Lipstick – “Scarlet Lipstick Kissing Kate AkzoNobel No.9” Merck KGaA Light and Lift Clarifying Lotion Eckart Altana 3 in 1 Creamy Milk Ashland All-Day-Long Concealer Nordmann, Rassmann Rich Men`s World Floratech Cucumber Facial Scrub Azelis Protameen Day Care for Sensitive Skin with Youthful Radiance Enhancer Quick Breaking Effect Sublime Lip Gloss BASF Greentech Sederma Long Wear Water-in-Silicone Divine Skin Oil QD Whitening Revolution Foundation HallStar Seppic Bayer Facial Hydrating Mist Daisy Flower CC Cream Perfect Day Cream Sisterna Inolex Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Diamond Regenerating Day Cream Facial Moisturizer Jelly Facial Gel Mask Soliance CLR Jungbunzlauer Water-based Nail Polish – Smoothing Sure Stay Foundation Brightening Facial Cream Pretty Red Croda Kobo Products Worlée 4K Ultra HD Pore Refiner First Line Defense Face Serum Remineralising Mask DKSH Lubrizol Zschimmer & Schwarz COS1501_41_Kalender_GB_COS1409_39_Kalender_GB 23.01.15 06:56 Seite 41

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EVENTS SERVICES

Fairs, conferences and seminars 20152015 When? What? Where? Who? 04.–05.02.2015 Active & Intelligent Freising DVI e.V. Packaging Germany www.verpackungsakademie.de 04.–05.02.2015 ADF: Aerosol & Dispensing Forum Paris Oriex PCD: Packaging of Perfume France www.pcd-congress.com Cosmetics & Design www.aerosol-forum.com 11.–14.02.2015 Vivaness Nuremberg NurembergMesse Germany www.biofach.de 17.02.2015 RDG Wales & West Bristol SCS Event of the SCS Great Britain www.scs.org.uk 21.–22.02.2015 BEAUTY FORUM SPAIN Valencia Health and Beauty Marketing Spain SLU Spain www.estheticworld.es

25.–26.02.2015 Packaging Innovations Birmingham easyFairs Great Britain www.easyfairs.com 25.–26.02.2015 PLMA Annual Nizza PLMA International Council Roundtable Conference France [email protected], www.plmainternational.com 25.–27.02.2015 Intercharm St. Petersburg Reed Exhibitions professional Russia www.intercharmspb.ru 28.02.–01.03.2015 BEAUTY FORUM SWISS Zurich Health and Beauty Marketing Swiss GmbH Switzerland [email protected] www.beauty-fairs.ch

04.–05.03.2015 HPCI Exhibition & Mumbai SOFW Conference India www.hpci-india.com 07.–08.03.2015 BEAUTY FORUM POLAND Warsaw Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland [email protected] www.beauty-fairs.com.pl

11.–12.03.2015 DGK-Workshop: Praxis- Fulda DGK e.V. orientierte Info zur Rheologie Germany www.dgk-ev.de 11.–12.03.2015 Fresenius Mainz Akademie Fresenius Kosmetika-Tagung Germany www.akademie-fresenius.de 12.–14.03.2015 PCHi Guangzhou Reed Sinopharm China China www.pchi-china.com 12.–15.03.2015 BEAUTY & CARE (WK) Turkey Istanbul Interteks Turkey www.interteks.com

19.–21.03.2015 BEAUTY FORUM SLOVAKIA Trencin Expo Center Slovakia [email protected] www.expocenter.sk

19.–22.03.2015 Cosmopack Bologna SoGeCos Italy www.cosmoprof.com 20.–23.03.2015 Cosmoprof Bologna SoGeCos Italy www.cosmoprof.com 23.–24.03.2015 Parfümerietagung Düsseldorf Bundesverband Parfümerien e.V. Germany www.bvpkw.de 24.–25.03.2015 Making Cosmetics UK Coventry Step Exhibitions Great Britain www.making-cosmetics.com 25.–26.03.2015 Empack Zurich easyFairs Label&Print Switzerland www.easyfairs.com 25.–26.03.2015 International Private Moscow Reed Exhibitions Label Show Russia Russia www.ipls-russia.ru 27.–29.03.2015 Beauty Düsseldorf Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Germany www.beauty.de 28.–29.03.2015 Top Hair Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Germany www.messe-duesseldorf.com 28.–29.03.2015 Make-up Artist Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Design Show Germany www.messe-duesseldorf.de 14.–16.04.2015 In-Cosmetics Barcelona Reed Exhibitons Spain www.in-cosmetics.com 15.–16.04.2015 MakeUp in Seoul Seoul Beauteam SAS South Korea www.makeup-in-seoul.com

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EVENTS ADVERTISEMENT / ANZEIGE photos: In-Cosmetics photos:

in-cosmetics, 14-16 April, Gran Via Exhibition Centre, Barcelona Global beauty titans gather under one roof

ass-market beauty products the rise of Halal products and forecasts metics claims legislation affects the Mincreasingly dominate the for growth, plus a guide to the complex full life-cycle of product development global industry - accounting area of certification. Euromonitor In- and Delivery Systems for Cosmetic Ac- for 78% of beauty value growth since ternational examines the region’s key tives hosted by Dr. Florian Weighardt, 2000 and helping to drive total global trends and statistics as part of its glob- Associate Editor, Teknoscienze. His sales by 100% over the past 15 years to al beauty market presentation, while workshop provides expert formulators, reach US$454bn*. Skin and haircare Mintel focuses on Middle Eastern buyers, product developers and mar- are two of the biggest sectors, worth Beauty Rituals and products from the keters with an introduction to the skin US$107bn regions with manufacturers region as part of its Product Demon- structure and the permeability of the such as Surya Kimya – one of the strations. stratum corneum. biggest makers and suppliers of cos- A Turkey & Middle East Product Sun Protection Regulation in the metic ingredients in Turkey. Trail highlights unique products and EU, US and Australia features an ex- Research company TechNavio fore- projects from or inspired by the region. pert panel of speakers including Do- casts that the global Halal cosmetics minique Lutz of Helioscreen and Dr and personal care market will grow at a Insight and intelligence Jack Ferguson of Skinnovation provid- CAGR of 13.43% over the period 2013- Eight exclusive half-day workshops ing an overview and update on regula- 2018. This strong growth can be attrib- headline in-cosmetics 2015’s Educa- tions affecting marketing in these re- uted to both the rise in the world’s tional Programme. gions - the three largest markets glob- Muslim population and continued Led by industry experts covering ally. strong demand from Malaysia and In- the most crucial scientific and regula- For visitors interested in develop- donesia – the two largest Halal beauty tory subject areas, sessions cover an ing organic beauty, Judi Beerling, Head markets in the world. array of topics from legislation to for- of Technical Research at Organic Mon- The in-cosmetics 2015 Educational mulation. Highlights include The itor focuses on green emulsifiers, sur- Programme includes a Marketing Claims Development Process – More factants and emollients. Dr Karl Lint- Trends presentation from Dr. Yavuz than Just Evidence led by Theresa ner, an independent consultant to the Özoguz of Halal certification special- Callaghan of Callaghan Consulting cosmetic industry and teacher of cos- ists m-haditec, offering insights into who’ll take a closer look at how cos- metic chemistry at the ISIPCA school of

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The best of the best Once again the industry’s finest are recognised with an awards ceremony announcing the winners of Innovation Zone Best Ingredient, the Green Ingre- dient Award, plus a new award to cele- brate 25 years of innovation that will recognise the ingredients that have made the biggest long-term impact in the personal care industry. This year al- so sees the return of The Beiersdorf In- novation Pitch, when this top manu- facturer will select three outstanding show exhibitors. Cathy Laporte, in-cosmetics Exhibi- tion Manager said: “in-cosmetics 2015 isn’t just the ideal showcase for the lat- est products and ingredients, it’s an ideas factory where like-minded pro-

Eight exclusive half-day workshops headline in-cosmetics 2015’s Educational Programme

Versailles, leads Haircare Advances: To ket with future potential, explores the Grow or not to grow, that is the ques- growth potential in Europe for Halal tion focussing on anti-ageing, colour- cosmetic products and the increasing ing and hair growth. interest in Halal cosmetics in the Is- The wider educational programme lamic world. Dr Özoguz’s presentation sees the Marketing Trends theatres will also include case studies looking host three days of free Marketing at exemplary products and the current Trends insights, with presentations ad- market situation throughout the world. dressing the facts, figures and analysis of topics such as skin diagnostics, mo- Innovation now bile technology commerce and in- The Innovation Zone explores the creasing fragrance sales. Led by re- very latest developments, bringing to- search companies at the forefront of gether four elements to inspire and ed- Mintel presents Beauty Rituals – examining the industry alongside both small and ucate: Latest product launches, formu- the changing approach to beauty regimes large brands and consultancies, the lation displays, and live demonstra- programme offers exciting case studies tions, while Mintel presents Beauty fessionals can exchange thinking and and lively panel discussions that pro- Rituals – examining the changing ap- catch-up on the trends affecting their vide something for all attendees. proach to beauty regimes - from the businesses right now and those likely The first day of Marketing Trends multi-step skincare routines of women to have an impact on the market in presentations features a round-table in Asia, to the complex haircare adopt- coming months. This year’s line-up of discussion chaired by COSSMA Editor, ed by Brazilians. demonstrations, seminars, workshops Angelika Meiss, entitled How to over- On the show floor, the always-pop- and round-tables is second-to-none come the main challenges for niche ular Innovation Seminars feature more with more yet to be announced.” start-up cosmetics brands. Joining An- than 80 hours of presentations on the To find out more about exhibitors gelika for the discussion will be Jayne latest products, ingredients and tech- and features at the show, you can visit Mayled, CEO & Founder of White Hot nologies, plus updates on formulation the website on www.in-cosmetics.com. Hair, Helen Miller, Managing Director techniques. *Euromonitor International at Helen Miller Consulting, Lutz Her- rmann of Lutz Hermann Design and Top 5 reasons to attend in-cosmetics in Barcelona Paola Gugliotta, Co-Founder and Cre- l ative Director at Sepai Skincare. Meet 680+ ingredients suppliers from across the world: 10% new exhibitors l Day two features a number Source 100s of innovative ingredients and technologies l of topics related to this Find new business opportunities through the Turkey & Middle East Market Focus year’s Turkey & Middle-East l Update your scientific, regulatory and market knowledge at the Market Focus. Presented by Dr.-Ing. specialised seminars and workshops Y. Özoguz, CEO, Halal Zertifikat, Halal l Celebrate our 25th anniversary at the in-cosmetics Awards ceremony Cosmetics and Personal Care – A mar-

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SERVICES SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE

Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing Hagebuttenkernöl Rose Hip Oil Hyaluronsäure Natrium Hyaluronic Acid Sodium On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics Johanniskrautöl Hacoba St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have Jojobaperlen Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents. Jojobaöl Jojoba Oil A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 45ff. You can also Karmin Carmine find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide Kosmetik-Farbstoffe Cosmetics Colorants Should your company be listed here? Kosmetik-Rohstoffe Cosmetics Raw Materials Kosmetik Spatel Cosmetics Spatulas Send an e-mail to [email protected] We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices. Lanolin (Adeps Lanae), Lanolin (Adeps Lanae), Wollwachs, -alkohole Low Pesticide Wool Wax, pestizidarm Wool Alcohols Lohnabfüllung Contract Filling Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel Contract Manufactur ing German Heading see und Kosmetika Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics Lohnherstellung und Verpackung Manufacturing + Packaging Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen Filling and Crimping Machines Makadamianussöl Macadamia Nut Oil Adeps Lanae Adeps Lanae Mandelöl Almond Oil Ätherische Öle Essential Oils Mischkugeln für Aerosole Aerosol Mixing Balls Airless Systeme Airless Systems Molch-Reinigungssysteme Pig Clearing Systems Aloe Vera Aloe Vera Nachtkerzenöl Evening Primrose Oil Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse Aluminium Seal Closures Oleochemicals Oleochemicals Ampullenabfüllung Ampul Filling Olivenbutter Olivebutter Avocadobutter Avocadobutter Olivenöl Olive Oil Avocadoöl Avocado Oil Parfümöl Perfume Oil Boragesamenöl Borage Seed Oil Pflanzenöle vegetable oils Chitosan Chitosan Pumpen für die Produktion Pumps for the production process Rizinusöl Castor Oil Dermatologische + klinische Tests Dermataogical + Clinical Tests Sesamöl Dichtemessung von Cremes, Density Measurement of Sesame Oil Software Software Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen Creams, Liquids and Aerosols Sheabutter Shea Butter Etiketten Labels Spraysysteme Spray Systems Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics Sterilisation Sterilization Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeits- Fatty Acid Esters Verpackungen Packaging zerstäuber und Sprühpistolen Dispensers and Trigger Pumps Weizenkeimöl Wheat Germ Oil Formen und Kunststoffteile Molds and Plastic Parts Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika Actives for Cosmetics Glittereffekte Glitter Effects Wollwachs Wool Wax ✂ ✂ ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE: Fax +49 (0)721 165-227 Start winning tomorrow’s customer today Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad: with your entry in the suppliers’ guide Category/ies: width of column: 43 mm price per mm height: € 3,10 for a period of: 1 year advertising deadline: 10th day of each month before publication

❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’ Height i. mm: mm guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry. ❑ 4 colour (Euro scale) ❑ black and white You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax. To be first published in issue: Company: ❑ 03/2015 ❑ 04/2015 ❑ 05/2015 Contact: ❑ 06/2015 ❑ 07-08/2015 ❑ 09/2015 Street, P.O. Box: For a period of: ❑ 1 year ❑ test: 3 month

Post Code, City: ❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone Country: (including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing! Phone: Fax: Date, Signature

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SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE SERVICES

Adeps Lanae Carmine Contract Filling Contract Manufacturing Adeps Lanae Karmin Lohnabfüllung + Packaging Lohnherstellung + Verpackung H. Erhard Wagner GmbH C.E. ROEPER 28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20 Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35 Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de www.wagnerlanolin.com

Certification Aerosol Mixing Balls Zertifizierung Mischkugeln für Aerosole

SiLibeads® glass balls for aerosol sprays SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Phone (++49) 92 77 -9 94 10· Fax (++49) 92 77 - 9 94 99 E-Mail: [email protected]

www.sili.eu

Lohnabfüllung Aloe Vera Zellaerosol GmbH Aloe Vera Wiesenstraße 13 D-79669 Zell/Wiesental Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0 C.E. ROEPER Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14 Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35 E-Mail: [email protected] E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de Internet: www.zellaerosol.de

You are looking GANZ EINFACH: Aluminium Seal Closures for export Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse contacts? ✓ Standardsachets ✓ Zeitschriftensachets LEISTUNG Check the International ✓ Onpacksachets HERSTELLEN B2B Exchange ✓ Konturensachets ✓ Tüchlein von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, on page 48 Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVC- in this issue. Lohn-Pack oder Aluzellen. K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG Dorfwiesenstraße, 61197 Florstadt Tel. 0 60 41 / 82 28 - 27, Fax 0 60 41 / 47 76 ABFÜLLEN Mail: [email protected] in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen. Containers f. transport & storange KONFEKTIONIEREN von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und Please note: Genußmitteln. 03/2015 DOKUMENTIEREN GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Doku- Publishing date: mentation. Modernes Labor mit 03.03.2015 Mikrobiologie.

Unsere IBC Container lagern in strategisch gelegenen Depots in Großbritannien, Frank- reich, Deutschland, Niederlande, Spanien, Advertising deadline: Skandinavien und USA, um den Bedarf unserer Kunden in Europa zu decken. 02.02.2015 TPS Rental Systems Ltd . www.tpsrentalsystems.de Alu-Siegelverschlüsse Mergenthaler Str. 27 . 48268 Greven Please do not Alu-Folien Tel. +49 2571-9929571 . Fax -9929572 hesitate to contact us if you • für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter WAGENER & CO • in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage have any further questions GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG|seit 1964 • in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck Advertising Wagener & Co GmbH • Qualität seit 1957 Call: Dorothea Michaelis Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG Hotline Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0 Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung 57319 Bad Berleburg +49 (0)721 165-144 E-Mail: [email protected] Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25 +49 (0)721 165-144 Internet: www.wagener-co.de

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SERVICES SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE

Cosmetic Ingredients Glitter Effects „Danke Kosmetik-Rohstoffe Glittereffekte für alles!“ SiLiglit®

Die SOS-Kinderdörfer bedanken sich bei allen Freunden und Unter stützern für 60 Jahre Mitgefühl, Engagement und Vertrauen!

Bitte bleiben Sie uns treu.

SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499 E-Mail: [email protected] www.sili.eu Alsheimer Straße 1 Polyurethanes, film forming polymers 67586 Hillesheim - Germany and sensory additives for your Tel.: +49 (0) 6733 9470-0 Labels cosmetic formulations www.rationator.com [email protected] Etiketten www.bayercosmetics.com

baycusan®

Cosmetic Spatulas Tel.: 0800/50 30 300 (gebührenfrei) Kosmetik-Spatel Spendenkonto: 22222 00000 BLZ: 430 609 67, GLS-Bank

www.sos-kinderdoerfer.de

go Meding GmbH Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver Contract Manufacturing Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0 Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28 Spenden statt Pharmac. + Cosmetics [email protected] www.meding.com Geschenke! Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Geburtstag, Hochzeit, Marathon, Dermatological + oder Ihre eigene Idee - starten Sie eine eigene Spendenaktion Clinical Tests zugunsten der SOS-Kinderdörfer weltweit und motivieren Sie Ihre Freunde, Sie zu unterstützen!

Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster www.dermatest.de H. Erhard Wagner GmbH 28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20 Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 www.wagnerlanolin.com Filling Lines Filling Lines Mixing + Homogenizing Mixing + Homogenizing Maschinen für Aerosole und Sprühsysteme

– Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen – Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen – Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen – Mess- und Testgeräte Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie - A STEP AHEAD Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie - symex GmbH & Co. KG Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon Fon: +49 (0)471/98 4010 T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044 Fax: +49 (0)471/98 40140 www.meine-spendenaktion.de [email protected], www.pamasol.com www.symex.de

46 COSSMA 1-2I2015 COS1501_45_BQ_GB_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 23.01.15 07:23 Seite 47

www.cossma.com Trends SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE SERVICES Statements Innovation Packaging Software Chinese Edition Verpackungen Software

Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen Tel. +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 90 Fax +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 99 [email protected], www.rosa-heinz.de

Find new business partners in China with the Chinese Edition of COSSMA!

Together with our Chinese Partner “China Cosmetic Review”, the first Chinese edition has been published in May 2014. “Chinese Cosmetic Review” was founded in 1992 and is Sterilization supported by the China Federation of Commerce. China Sterilisation Cosmetic Review is the only official publication in China targeted at the Chinese cosmetics and toiletries industry. Wir machen Ihre Produkte For further information on topics, print run & circulation steril! and advertising rates, check www.cossma.com/china

BGS – Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation. Verpackung www.bgs.eu für Kosmetik – Selbstabfüller Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u. Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender, WIEHL | BRUCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU) Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen, BGS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas) [email protected] | +49 (0) 2261 7899-0 Auch Kleinstmengen! Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an R.GERSCHON GMBH D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus Vegetable Oils . Tel. 06174/7017 Fax 06174/1312 Pflanzenöle Internet: www.gerschon.de E-Mail: [email protected] Siebdruck ab 300 Stück

SEUFERT TRANSPARENTE VERPACKUNGEN GMBH PACKED WITH „Danke für alles!“ INSPIRATION.

www.sos-kinderdoerfer.de www.seufert.com

Wool wax Wollwachs

Advertising Hotline H. Erhard Wagner GmbH +49 (0)721 165-210 28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20 www.cossma.com/china Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 www.wagnerlanolin.com Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany [email protected] Tel: +49 (0)721 165-144 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-150 COS1501_48_IBF_GB_COS1409_42_IBF_GB 23.01.15 07:00 Seite 48

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SERVICE XB2B-EXCHANGE Go to

www.cossma.com/ B2B Exchange: Find your b2bexchange business partners of tomorrow today! for more information COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new about suppliers and business contacts. their products All our business partners can use this "International B2B Exchange". Have a look at the entries below now and find your business partner of tomorrow today! Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange (a=NEW!)

Wish to export their products

abalico GERTRAUD GRUBER IONTO-COMED GmbH Weinheim, Germany KOSMETIK GmbH & Co. Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany Contact: Export [email protected] Contact: Mr. Roland Schäfer [email protected] www.abalico.de [email protected] www.ionto.de Products: Cosmetic products www.gertraudgruber.de Products: cosmetic and footcare technology for hand and nail Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produkt- wish to export to: worldwide wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB und Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis der 1. Beautyfarm Europas. Akzent direct GmbH wish to export to: worldwide Klapp Cosmetics GmbH Gelnhausen, Germany Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany Guderma GmbH [email protected] Contact: Mr. Fernando Duarte www.akzent-direct.com Bergkamen, Germany [email protected] Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf www.klapp-cosmetics.com wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East, [email protected] Products: Cosmetic products, P, E, I www.fusspunkt.de SPA collection series Products: Skin Care Products for dry and wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia very dry skin Beauty Line Consulting wish to export to: worldwide Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany Contact: Mr. Janos Stegena NEOVITA COSMETICS [email protected] Heitland & Petre International Mauer, Germany www.belico.de GmbH (ROSA GRAF) Products: skin and body care products, Contact: Ms. Karina Grimm private label, bulk Celle, Germany [email protected] wish to export to: worldwide Contact: Ms. Saskia Schneider www.neovita.de [email protected] Products: Premium Skin Care products for www.heitland.com professionals beauty lumis GmbH Products: skin care products, wish to export to: worldwide München, Germany wellness & spa treatments Contact: Ms. Angela Frommer wish to export to: worldwide [email protected] www.byonik.net Dr. med Christine Schrammek Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and House of Melchiorsen Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG cosmetic products wish to export to: worldwide Naestved, Denmark Essen, Germany Contact: Ms. Annelise Langhorn Contact: Ms. Birgit Schmitz [email protected] [email protected] DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH www.susanne-melchiorsen.com www.schrammek.de Braunschweig, Germany Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings Contact: Ms. Mira Fischbach teas – made of biodynamic herbs from wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA [email protected] owned herbs-garden. www.BELTER.de wish to export to: worldwide Products: skin and body care cosmetics wish to export to: worldwide TANA Cosmetics Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH Bielefeld, Germany Dr. GRANDEL GmbH Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co. KG PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic Contact: Ms. Renate Karner Mr. Ronald Fortmann Augsburg, Germany [email protected] Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler www.praxis-cosmetic.de [email protected] [email protected] Products: Skin and Body Care www.tana-cosmetics.com www.grandel.de Cosmetics, Ampoules, Products: Colour cosmetics, Products: Skin care products, Decorative cosmetics Cosmetic products for self tanning wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America wish to export to: EU + worldwide wish to export to: E, F, DK, S

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Masthead Advertisers’ Page Index

Volume 15 ISSN 1439-7676 The A & E Connock Ltd Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH www.connock.co.uk p. 52 Team Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311 Akzo Nobel Chemicals AG Personal Care Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA www.akzonobel.com/personalcare p. 27 P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148 BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH

Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor: www.carecreations.basf.com p. 5 Angelika Meiss Phone: +49 721 165-169 Beauteam – MakeUp in Paris E-mail: [email protected] www.makeup-in-seoul.com p. 37 Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Clariant International Ltd. Managing Director Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, www.clariant-personalcare.com p. 7 Jürgen Volpp Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern

Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Dr. Straetmans GmbH Phone: +49 721 165-144 www.dr-straetmans.de p. 14 E-mail: [email protected] Advertising Services: Beate Bantzhaff Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148 INOLEX Inc. The current list of advertising rates is dated www.inolex.com p. 2 1st of Jan. 2014.

Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Kahl GmbH & Co. KG Service [email protected] www.kahlwax.de p. 15 Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148 Published: 10 issues per year COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and KHK GmbH Senior Editor “Aerosol and Spray Report“ www.lipcare.de/private-label p. 23 Angelika Meiss +49 721 165-169 Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198. Kosmetik Konzept GmbH Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm www.kosmetik-konzept.de p. 23 by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrange- Louvrette GmbH ment via a bank or post office is acceptable. www.louvrette.de p. 9

Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Production Ulrich Hanke MicroCombiChem e.K. Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany www.microcombichem.de p. 40 Phone: +49 721 165-592 ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696 Reed Exhibition Companies www.in-cosmetics.com p. 31, 42, 43 Printing Kraft Druck GmbH Advertising Sales Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany Dorothea Michaelis +49 721 165-144 Rosa Heinz GmbH International Representatives www.rosa-heinz.de p. 23 Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) Sabinsa Europe GmbH 1016 Budapest, Hungary www.sabinsacosmetics.com p. 39 Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248 E-mail: [email protected] SoGeCos s.p.a. Italy Zero Venti Loris Sparti www.cosmoprof.com p. 33 Via Valprato, 68 10155 Torino, Italy SystemKosmetik Produktionsges. Phone: +39 0115637338 E-mail: [email protected] für kosmetische Erzeugnisse mbH Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o. www.systemkosmetik.de p. 40 Advertising Support Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3 Beate Bantzhaff 02-954 Warsaw, Poland +49 (0)721 165-232 Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953 E-mail: [email protected] USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc. Detlef Fox 19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza New York, NY NY 10001, USA Phone: +1 212 896-3881 Fax: +1 212 629-3988 E-mail: [email protected]

© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of infor- mation in this magazine. Never theless, no responsibility is accepted for any Graphics errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is Ulrich Hanke copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the +49 (0)721 165-592 subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine. COS1501_50_Vorschau_GB_COS1409_50_Vorschau_GB 23.01.15 07:01 Seite 50

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Trend statement Mineral sun protection

From as long ago as 1990 Laverana An exciting challenge is the production of a 100% mineral Natural Cosmetics has offered miner- solar filter that does not require a nano declaration. Natural al sun protection products. Today sun protection has now been on sale for several years and mineral sun protection is taken as a offers a special care category like summer hair care or spe- standard item in classic bio supply cial shower products. shops and natural cosmetics stores, www.laverana.com and as sun protection for children in combination with chemical light pro- Sabine Kästner, tection filters. company spokes- woman, Laverana Whilst a few years ago it was said that when using only mineral type sun protection a maximum SPF of 20 could be achieved, today there are natural cosmetics products offering SPF 30. Fur- ther development in minerals has now reached a stage where such products have a reflection capacity where it can achieve the required UVA balance. Mineral sun protection is waterproof, and has a very high so- lar filter. The minerals reflect the UV light off the skin like a mirror. This means that the whitening effect, that is some- times regarded as a nuisance, cannot be avoided, even though products with natural sun protection today are con- siderably better than the original ones. Natural cosmetics suppliers must, as previously, explain the difference between chemical and physical solar protection photo: Laverana photo: products because the difference in skin feel and whitening Meanwhile it is possible to formulate effect are clearly perceptible. natural cosmetics products with LSF 30

PREVIEW March 2015 Product development Dr. May Shana’a, Head of Global Research & Develop- ment of Beiersdorf, explains the developments that are having the biggest impact on the personal care market photo: Sergey Novikov, Shutterstock.com Novikov, Sergey photo:

Plus: +++ Focussing on new objectives with new research findings +++ Entering the major Chinese market – and knowing how! +++ Which fragrances will seduce New per- the consumers of tomorrow? +++ Exciting skin cleansing spectives for formulations +++ cosmetics

COSSMA 3/2015 is published on March 3rd, 2015 Focus: Future technologies

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www.cossma.com/suppliers Find tomorrow’s

Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry – suppliers today! news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:

Hersteller von hochwertigen kosmetischen Verpackungen

[email protected] www.aot.de www.ashland.com www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de www.azelis.com www.roeper.de www.bottlemate.de www.rationator.com

PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY www.lanxess-distribution.com www.meding.com www.neopac.ch www.flavex.com www.bayercosmetics.com www.gerschon.de www.geka-world.com

www.lohn-pack.com www.pfeiffer-consulting.com www.laus.de www.beinio.com www.rettner.de www.brenntag-gmbh.com www.ampullenabfuellung.de

www.zellaerosol.de www.seufert.com www.pro-beauty-production.de www.hhac.de www.novel-care.de www.cplaromas.com www.neocos.com

www.systemkosmetik.de www.sili.eu www.derschlag.com www.inolex.com www.unionpack.de www.kosmetik-konzept.de

www.pack-it.de www.klar-partner.de www.itwsbi.com www.gscomputersysteme.de www.rusi.de www.lutz-packaging.de www.ballerstaedt.de

www.kautz-design.com www.mawi-chemie.de www.symex.de www.siriusmaschinen.de www.domino-deutschland.de www.intracosmed.ch

€ You can find further information of these Your logo can be listed here for just 60,– per month – for further information, please contact [email protected]/suppliers as well Dorothea Michaelis as on their homepages (see Url below the logos). [email protected] phone +49 (0)721 165-144 COS1501_Connock_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.01.15 15:19 Seite 1

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Peach stone is just one of our many exquisite, responsibly sourced and quality assured natural exfoliants available for you to create naturally inspired products your customers will love.

NATURE’S FINEST EXFOLIANTS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

[email protected] www.connock.co.uk

Alderholt Mill House, Fordingbridge, Hampshire, SP6 1PU, England T: +44 (0)1425 653367