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DHAKA Ground Rideyou’Llnever Forget © Lonely Planet Publications 46 DHAKA DHAKA Dhaka Dhaka is more than just a city, it is a giant whirlpool that sucks in anything and anyone foolish enough to come within its furious grasp. Around and around it sends them, like some wildly spinning fairground ride bursting with energy. Millions of individual pursuits constantly churn together into a frenzy of collective activity – it is an urban melting pot bubbling over. Nothing seems to stand still. Even the art moves, paraded on the back of the city’s sea of 600,000-plus rickshaws, which throb with colour and restlessness even when gridlocked. It doesn’t matter how many times you experience this city, the sensation of being utterly overwhelmed is always the same. Sights and experiences come at you so thick and fast that it would take a lifetime to know this mega-city’s every mood. A day spent alternating between the filthy riverbanks of Old Dhaka and the swish restaurants of Gulshan is a day spent seeing the haves and have-nots of the world in crystal clarity. We can’t guarantee you’ll fall for Dhaka’s many charms, but sooner or later you will start to move to its beat and when that happens Dhaka stops being a terrifying ride and starts becoming a cauldron of art and intellect, passion and poverty, love and hate. Whatever happens, this is one fair- ground ride you’ll never forget. HIGHLIGHTS Staring dumbstruck at the panorama of life and death unfolding in front of you on a boat ride from Sadarghat ( p50 ) Shielding your eyes from the horrors of war at the heart-stirring Liberation War Museum ( p55 ) Getting noisy and colourful on Old Dhaka’s Liberation National War Museum Hindu Street ( p52 ) Museum Exploring the echoing halls of the treasure- filled National Museum ( p55 ), a multi- Old storey insight into the cultural heritage of Dhaka Bangladesh Hindu Street Being completely engulfed by the chaos that is Old Dhaka ( p50 ) – and loving every minute of it! Sadarghat Being trapped in an hour-long traffic jam consisting entirely of rickshaws (p54) TELEPHONE CODE: 02 POPULATION: 12.5 MILLION lonelyplanet.com DHAKA •• History 47 HISTORY points of interest for tourists, but not many DHAKA Founded in the 4th century, Dhaka first facilities. The much larger ‘modern’ city received principal status in 1610, when the begins about 2km to the north. The heart Mughals transferred the capital from Rajmahal of Central Dhaka is Motijheel (moh-tee- to Dhaka, and renamed it Jahangirnagar. jeel), which is also an important commercial During the Mughal period, Dhaka became district. Major landmarks here include the the chief commercial emporium. This en- National Stadium, the Shapla (Lotus Flower couraged a much greater concentration of Fountain) Circle on Inner Circular Rd and commerce: maritime trade brought industry, the Raj-era Supreme Court, just north of Islamic education and increasing sophistica- Dhaka University. Beyond are the suburbs, tion in the arts. Dhaka’s prosperity was also including the cantonment and the upmarket considerably enhanced – the Mughals built quarters of Banani, Gulshan and Baridhara. mosques, palaces, caravanserais (accommoda- These three quarters have the best restau- tion for camel caravans), bazaars and gardens. rants, guesthouses, almost all of the embassies This development began to attract European and many of the swishest shops. traders from southern India. Most major arteries run north–south. In 1666 the British East India Company Starting in the east these include DIT Rd/ established a trading post in Dhaka; however, Shaheed Suhrawardi Ave, Airport Rd, Kazi Dhaka’s decline as a maritime trade centre Nazrul Islam Ave, the shorter Begum Rokeya had already begun. Dhaka remained the capi- Sarani, and Mirpur Rd. The airport is on tal under the Mughals until 1704, when they Airport Rd between Uttara to its north and moved it to Murshidabad. the rest of the city to its south. The British East India Company extended An important road connecting Old Dhaka its power to such an extent that by 1757 it and the central area is North-South Rd, head- controlled all of Bengal except Dhaka, which it ing south from Kakrail Rd past the main post took eight years later. It was under the British, office and the Gulistan (Fulbaria) bus station during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, into Old Dhaka, and leading almost all the that the dominant forms of current economic way to the Buriganga River. The intersection development were established: indigo, sugar, of North-South and Fulbaria Rds is known as tobacco, tea and, of course, jute. Gulistan Crossing. In 1887 Dhaka became a district capital Travelling around Dhaka is complicated by of Bangladesh, and in 1905 Bengal was di- the fact that the main roads are known by the vided into east and west, the eastern sec- names of the areas through which they pass, tion incorporating Assam (with Dhaka and rarely by their official name. Adding to as its winter capital). From this point on the confusion is that side streets and lanes Dhaka again began to assume some measure often take the same name as the nearby main of importance as an administrative centre. road. If the driver of your rickshaw, bus or Government buildings, churches, residen- baby taxi (auto-rickshaw) doesn’t speak tial enclaves and educational institutions English, you’ll be better off giving sections transformed it into a city of great prosper- of the city or landmarks, and addresses only ity. During the existence of East Pakistan, after you get there. Dhaka was classed as a subsidiary capital, Between 5pm and 8pm the traffic jams and it was not until Independence in 1971 are phenomenal and walking is almost al- that Dhaka once again achieved its former ways quicker. Around Dhanmondi, which capital-city status. sees about the worst of the jams, the traffic is a mixed bag of buses, cars and rickshaws ORIENTATION whereas in Old Dhaka, where motorised Dhaka is not too difficult to figure out, though vehicles are banned, the traffic jams consist you’ll probably have a different opinion when entirely of hundreds upon hundreds of rick- you’re standing in the street. shaws. Friday morning is the best time for The city can be divided into three areas. wandering around – although few commer- Old Dhaka is a maze of crowded bazaars cial businesses are open, a number of public and equally crowded narrow streets lying markets and tourist sites can be visited. Some between the northern bank of the Buriganga shops reopen in the afternoon, when traffic on River and Fulbaria Rd. It’s brimming with the streets picks up. 48 DHAKA •• Greater Dhaka lonelyplanet.com 0 2 km GREATER DHAKA 0 1.0 miles To Bhawal National Park (28km); Mymensingh (100km) DHAKA DHAKA Tongi r e v Tongi Bridge i R i g n o T Uttara Airport Zia Train International Station Airport Airport Rd Botanical Gardens Pallabi Dhaka Cantt Train r e Station v i R Mirpur g a r Zoo u Military See Gulshan, Banani & T Cantonment Baridhara Map (p62) Baridhara S h a Banani h e Train e d Station Kemal S At u Mirpur aturk h Av r e a Dhaka-A d r DIT II Circle w ic R h a a t r Gulshan r H d o w i To Savar (12km); y p r DIT I Circle A National i Banani Dhamrai (17km); v Gabtali A Square e Aricha (62km) Bus Station Mohakhali Ave South Ave See Central Dhaka Map (pp56–7) Prime Mohakhali Sher-E- Minister's Gulshan Bangla Office Ave R Nagar Tejgaon i n y Sarani g Bijo Kazi Nazr National R Shamoli Tejgaon d Assembly Manik Mia Train Rampura Station Mogh Bazar Rd M Ave ul Islam Mohammadpur 6 i 1 r tha Kawran d p Pan R u ath Bazar Malibagh r P S R d a Ave t New m aton a Esk Lalmatia s d j R id R Sheraton d Hotel Rd 2 Motijheel Dhanmondi Dhaka Ramna New University Baitul Kamlapur Market Train Station Mukarram Motijheel A Cantonment Mosque ve Nayapaltan Toye d n R bee Azimpur Old Wari To Sylhet Dhaka (242km) Sayedabad Sadarghat Bus Station Buriganga River Demra Sadarghat Boat Terminal Asian Hwy See Old Dhaka Map (p51) Sayedabad Zinzira To Old Sonargaon (23km); Comilla (83km); Chittagong (190km) To Mawa (18km); Jessore (170km); Kolkata (280km) lonelyplanet.com DHAKA •• Information 49 DHAKA DHAKA DHAKA IN TWO DAYS After a long journey, you’ll probably want to take the first day in Dhaka a bit easy so start off by heading to the National Museum ( p55 ). Afterwards travel serenely in a rickshaw to Dhanmondi’s Mirpur Rd ( p64 ) for lunch. In the afternoon, spend some time wandering around nearby Suhrawardi Park ( p55 ), and Dhaka University ( p55 ). Next, mooch on over to the Liberation War Museum ( p55 ) for a lesson on the painful birth of a nation. At night head to DIT II Circle in Gulshan and choose one of the many fine restaurants ( p64 ) as the setting for the post-mortem of your day. An exploration of Old Dhaka ( p50 ) is the only way to spend your second day in the city. Start with a leisurely wander through history at Lalbagh Fort ( p53 ) and the next door Khan Mohammed Mirdha’s Mosque ( p54 ). From here walk in any direction and you will find fan- tastic sights and unexpected adventures at every turn. Pace yourself with a few cha (tea) breaks and delicious street snacks. Don’t miss out on Shankharia Bazar (Hindu St) ( p52 ) and Nazira Bazar, the birthplace of rickshaw art (p66 ).
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