www.life.lk THURSDAY MAY 3, 2018 HI! TRAVEL FEATURE THIS & THAT 09 erendipity, unapologetically and unabashedly stumbled upon me recently – through this experience I discovered why Sri Lanka so often had the tag “serendipity” attached to it. The word “serendipity” is defined as “the act of Eladetta finding something valuable or delightful when you are not looking for it” and a weekend away at EladettaWalauwa, Handessa, in the Pilimatalawa area Walauwa of the Central Province provided this in full measure. No doubt, there were Sexpectations of being surrounded by history, culture and a glimpse into the gracious lifestyle of Kandyan nobility; but richer for the experience. I also encountered the power The wonderful testament that endures of human relationships in a workplace. Eladetta sits on 18 acres overflowing with luxuriant shrubs and towering trees. In a clean and neat area at the back of the mansion, a thriving foliage export business operates. Amitha Nugawela and his lovely wife Dewaki are the custodians of Eladetta Walauwa – a breath taking walauwa or manor house built more than a hundred years ago and lovingly preserved throughout the ages. Situated off the main Colombo-Kandy thoroughfare and approached through a turnoff at Pilimatalawa, many small villages dot the landscape. Several historic sites like Embekke, Gadaladeniya and Lankatilleke temples are also in the vicinity. An ancient ambalama (resting place for travellers) stands like a sentinel at the top of the road leading to the walauwa. The sense of going back to the past is palpable. The property not only offers accommodation to guests but also houses an industry that is totally in keeping with its environment-friendly vibe. In a clean and neat area at the back of the mansion, a thriving foliage export business operates. Here, village men and women harvest exotic foliage from the expansive gardens, wash and process them and pack them meticulously in cardboard boxes to be shipped overseas. An imposing gate and large pillars announce to visitors that Today these beautiful floors gleam with a soft patina of russet, they are about to experience a piece of history peppered with ochre and viridian. They are indeed a true manifestation of the culture and lore. Beyond the gates a driveway straddled with Kandyan love of intricate art in their living spaces and pay homage fruit trees and flowering shrubs introduces the whitewashed, to the Kandyan artisans who laboured over them more than a sprawling mansion with a double storey wing on the right and century ago. Beyond these spaces lie more open verandahs, verandahs that seem to stretch to eternity on the left. An oval- a recreated Meda Midula (open courtyard) with overhangs of shaped manicured lawn spreads out beyond the entrance as blooming thunbergia and wisteria, seven luxurious rooms and ornate wood accents decorate many spaces.Eladetta sits on suites, the formal dining room, the kitchens and the large wooden 18 acres overflowing with luxuriant shrubs and towering trees. Atuwa (traditional grain storage silo)on an elevated level. Amitha’s love of nature led him to set up a garden of medicinal T.B. Nugawela continued to develop the Pirivena. There was no The mansion and its grounds would echo with sounds of The accommodation on offer oozes grace, comfort and luxury. doubt that this family had deep conviction that the nexus between laughter and merriment. Of course the regular chanting of plants, shrubs and trees. Visitors can take a leisurely walk Large, spacious rooms have canopied beds replete with soft pillows through this forest of greenery as they learn about Sri Lanka’s Temple, Village and Walauwa was the foundation of a strong and Pirith and Dhamma sermons were another highlight.They and accents and huge bathrooms with all modern trappings cocoon moral society. Each member of the family throughout the ages had three daughters and one son – Amitha, who took over endemic skills of using nature as a backyard pharmacy. Trees the visitor in sheer extravagance. The suites have an added sitting are carefully labelled and a helpful guide would willingly explain has expanded on these strong beliefs. A spot that his mother held Eladetta Walauwa. area all furnished in a combination of traditional and contemporary. special to her on her walks through the village was used to build The family lost around 70 percent of their properties with their purpose in traditional medicine. As one travels on the Throughout the property, handmade collages created by walking path through the medicinal trees forest, a rolling plain of a school to promote education for girls that is now a government the draconian Land Reform act of the 1970s; yet their love Amitha’sand Dewaki’s families adorn the walls. educational institution which accommodates 200 children. As of the villagers, temple and environment was foremost. When rice paddies and shadowy mountains appear in the valley below. The sumptuous meals served on crockery adorned with the The sense of calm and wonder at nature’s marvels is pervasive. Muslims also formed part of the community, T.B. Nugawela also Amitha took over Eladetta in the 1980s, he had a mission to family crest imparted a sense of going back to a time when donated land to build a Muslim school. Today the Buddhist, restore it to the Eladettathat Knox talked about. At that time it The open verandah leads to a grand formal living room on the mealtime was leisurely and graceful and an experience to cherish. right. Furnished luxuriously, the obvious trappings of Kandyan Muslim and other religious sects in this little village live in total was a derelict liability but never one to baulk at a challenge he The food served surpassed all expectations not only in presentation harmony as they have for centuries. faced it head on. nobility such as sesath and brass lamps add character. As I was but freshness and taste. Most of the produce came from the welcomed with cold towels and refreshing ambarella (hog apple) T.B. Nugawela married Mariah Keppetipola, a descendant Engaging a well known architect and employing local village vegetable garden on site and the manner in which endemic fruits from the legendary hero Keppetipola Maha Disawa. They carpenters, every area of the property was either given a facelift juice served by a lovely lady in Kandyan saree, the journey from and vegetables were cooked was a tribute to the chef. Colombo seemed a distant memory. This large, spacious living had four daughters and four sons. Two of the four daughters were or completely transformed. However Amitha was determined What is also historically significant about this property is the fact married to Aluvihares from Matale of whom one was a DRO and the that the original character of the house he had grown up in was area filled with windows would have once played host to many that Robert Knox – the 17th century English sailor who was children who lived in the mansion as well as being the venue for other a Senior Government Servant; another to Richard Udugama, never lost. Every area of the mansion reverberates with the love imprisoned by the king of Kandy and made then Ceylon his former Army Commander; and the other to Dunuville Disawa, and care that has gone into its restoration and preservation. several elegant soirees. de facto home lived in this area. In 1659 Knox and his father What is very unique to this space is the floor. It had the the last Disawa in the former Ceylon Administration. One of the What is very apparent though is the family tradition while sailing to Persia and suffering a storm at sea, were taken sons, Colonel Alan Nugawela married Irangani Bulankulame/ of love for the community. It is apparent that the team of original coloured cement art works restored to its former glory. captive by the troops of the KandyanKing Rajasinghe II. They were When Amitha took over the property some years ago, the floors Senanayake whose family members were the custodians of the staff at Eladetta love their work and their employer. Amitha forbidden from leaving the kingdom but were treated leniently. The Sri Maha Bodhiya at Anuradhapura and remain so even today. humbly declares that his success is not their families alone had several layers of paint built up over time. He undertook the senior Knox passed away from malaria while Knox Junior went on gigantic task of scraping small areas of floor manually so as not Alan and Irangani continued the foundation established by their but credits the villagers for their trust, devotion and dedication. to establish himself as a farmer, moneylender and pedlar. In his ancestors enabling their descendants to follow. The produce from the medicinal trees garden is open to the to damage the artworks beneath. A team of dedicated workers book A Historical Relation of the Island of Ceylon – perhaps one of scraped the floors for more than six months. Alan was Aide de Camp to the then Governor General – villagers to harvest. He continues to work with all communities the most invaluable records of the island in the 17th century Knox William Gopallawa,and Commander of the Volunteer Forces closely and believes that a strong community could be built by describes the very places that are still not only visible but actually of the Sri Lanka Army. Perhaps the artistic talents of Irangani tolerance, love and example. functioning today. The bathing well and the paddy fields Knox emanated from the Senanyake family-Senaka being world Thus Eladetta Walauwa is not just another gracious and cultivated still continue to flourish. A plaque commemorating his famous too. She was in the pioneering batch of the Farm School elegant mansion restored and renewed, but it is a timeless The accommodation on offer oozes grace, residence at Eladetta is still visible outside the mansion.