Textiles and Seeing the Entire Process Through from Beginning to End
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She Has Good Jeans: a History of Denim As Womenswear
Bard College Bard Digital Commons Senior Projects Spring 2018 Bard Undergraduate Senior Projects Spring 2018 She Has Good Jeans: A History of Denim as Womenswear Marisa S. Bach Bard College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.bard.edu/senproj_s2018 Part of the Fashion Design Commons, and the Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 4.0 License. Recommended Citation Bach, Marisa S., "She Has Good Jeans: A History of Denim as Womenswear" (2018). Senior Projects Spring 2018. 317. https://digitalcommons.bard.edu/senproj_s2018/317 This Open Access work is protected by copyright and/or related rights. It has been provided to you by Bard College's Stevenson Library with permission from the rights-holder(s). You are free to use this work in any way that is permitted by the copyright and related rights. For other uses you need to obtain permission from the rights- holder(s) directly, unless additional rights are indicated by a Creative Commons license in the record and/or on the work itself. For more information, please contact [email protected]. She Has Good Jeans: A History of Denim as Womenswear Senior Project Submitted to The Division of Arts of Bard College by Marisa Bach Annandale-on-Hudson, New York May 2018 Acknowledgements To my parents, for always encouraging my curiosity. To my advisor Julia Rosenbaum, for guiding me through this process. You have helped me to become a better reader and writer. Finally, I would like to thank Leandra Medine for being a constant source of inspiration in both writing and personal style. -
Oral History Center, the Bancroft Library, University of California Berkeley
Oral History Center, The Bancroft Library, University of California Berkeley Oral History Center University of California The Bancroft Library Berkeley, California Jeanne Rose Jeanne Rose: Rock and Roll Couturière, Herbalist, Aromatherapist, Author, and Ecologist Interviews conducted by Amanda Tewes in 2018 Interviews sponsored by Ann Ash and Christine Suppes Copyright © 2018 by The Regents of the University of California Oral History Center, The Bancroft Library, University of California Berkeley ii Since 1954 the Oral History Center of the Bancroft Library, formerly the Regional Oral History Office, has been interviewing leading participants in or well-placed witnesses to major events in the development of Northern California, the West, and the nation. Oral History is a method of collecting historical information through tape-recorded interviews between a narrator with firsthand knowledge of historically significant events and a well-informed interviewer, with the goal of preserving substantive additions to the historical record. The tape recording is transcribed, lightly edited for continuity and clarity, and reviewed by the interviewee. The corrected manuscript is bound with photographs and illustrative materials and placed in The Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley, and in other research collections for scholarly use. Because it is primary material, oral history is not intended to present the final, verified, or complete narrative of events. It is a spoken account, offered by the interviewee in response to questioning, and as such it is reflective, partisan, deeply involved, and irreplaceable. ********************************* All uses of this manuscript are covered by a legal agreement between The Regents of the University of California and Jeanne Rose dated May 14, 2018. -
MUSIC 351: Psychedelic Rock of the 1960S Spring 2015, T 7:00–9:40 P.M., ENS-280
MUSIC 351: Psychedelic Rock of the 1960s Spring 2015, T 7:00–9:40 p.m., ENS-280 Instructor: Eric Smigel ([email protected]) M-235, office hours: Mondays & Tuesdays, 3:00–4:00 p.m. This is a lecture class that surveys psychedelic rock music and culture of the 1960s. Psychedelic music played an important role in the development of rock music as a predominant art form during one of the most formative decades in American history. Emerging along with the powerful counterculture of hippies in the mid-1960s, psychedelic rock reflects key elements of the “Love Generation,” including the peace movement, the sexual revolution, the pervasive use of recreational drugs (especially marijuana and LSD), and the growing awareness of Eastern philosophy. The main centers of countercultural activity—the Haight-Ashbury district of San Francisco and the London Underground—drew a high volume of media exposure, resulting in the famous “Summer of Love” and culminating in popular music festivals in Monterey, Woodstock, and Altamont. Students in this course will examine the music and lyrics of a selection of representative songs by The Grateful Dead, The Jefferson Airplane, Big Brother and the Holding Company, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, The Jimi Hendrix Experience, and other bands closely associated with the burgeoning psychedelic scene. Students will also consult primary source material—including interviews with several of the musicians, influential literature of the period, and essays by key figures of the movement—in order to gain insight into the social, political, -
Course Syllabus & Itinerary, THTR 216, Maymester 2015 the Art
Course Syllabus & Itinerary, THTR 216, Maymester 2015 The Art, History, & Business of London Fashion We will explore many facets of the business of style that make London one of the most cutting-edge and influential fashion capitals of the world. Our study will begin with an overview of fashion history and its connection to the fine and decorative arts. We will learn about the origins of Haute Couture, from its roots in England and France in the 19th century, to today’s well known designers and trendsetters who have kept this cosmopolitan city at the forefront of the industry. Dynamic British designers from the 20th and 21st century at the heart of our study, who have continually pushed boundaries and changed rules of etiquette in their quest for fashion to mirror political, economic, and sociopolitical changes in society, include: Charles Frederick Worth, considered to be the father of Haute Couture; Mary Quant and her mini-skirt revolution; Vivienne Westwood and her influence on the world of punk fashion; Alexander McQueen and his creation of artful garments; and Stella McCartney and her ethical, sustainable approach to design. Excursions will include trips to: world renowned museums, to study works of fine and decorative art and historic examples of clothing; theatrical performances, to compare the theatricality of stage costumes and the principles of stage design to both runway and everyday fashion; the Making of Harry Potter, to see how designers create artful film designs; and a variety of commercial fashion venues, in which contemporary -
2 Fotografen Bands Und Musiker in Der Ausstellung
Museum Folkwang Fotografen, Bands und Musiker in der Ausstellung Fotografen (A–Z) Fiona Adams; Richard Avedon; David Belisle; Wolfgang Burat; Ed Caraeff; Dean Chalkley; Edward Colver; Anton Corbijn; Joseph Cultice; Sante D’Orazio; Anno Dittmer; Bill Eppridge; Bruce Fleming; Lionel Flusin; Elfi Fröhlich; Jill Furmanovsky; Ron Galella + Betty Burke-Galella; Lynn Goldsmith; Bob Gruen; Steve Gullick; Hans Hansen; Ross Halfin; Harry Hammond; Olaf Heine; Dezo Hoffmann; Marvin Israel; Michael Joseph; George Kalinsky; Art Kane; Astrid Kirchherr; Daniel Kramer; David LaChapelle; John Launois; Annie Leibovitz; Laurie Lewis; David Magnus; Gered Mankowitz; Toby Melville; David Montgomery; Denis O’Regan; Patrick Pantano; Helga Paris; Norman Parkinson; Charles Peterson; Pierre & Gilles; Neal Preston; Jim Rakete; Rankin; Timm Rautert; David Redferns; Bent Rej; Ebet Roberts; Mick Rock; Sten M. Rosenlund; Sarahphotogirl; Roger Sargent; Francesco Scavullo; Steve Schapiro; Jerry Schatzberg; Max Scheler; Hannes Schmid; Ferdinando Scianna; Mark Seliger; Stephen Shore; Pennie Smith; Terence Spencer; Frank Stefanko; Emma Svensson; Christopher Simon Sykes; Juergen Teller; Ian Tilton; Philip Townsend; Burk Uzzle; Jürgen Vollmer; Albert Watson; Alfred Wertheimer; Kevin Westenberg; Jimmy Willis; Andrew Willisher; Baron Wolman; Richard Young; Didi Zill; Günther Zint Bands und Musiker (A–Z) AD/DC; Arctic Monkeys; Bob Dylan; Chuck Berry; Coldplay; David Bowie; Einstürzende Neubauten; Elvis Presley; Frank Zappa and Mothers of Invention; Franz Ferdinand; Iggy Pop; Janis Joplin; Jerry Lee Lewis; Jimi Hendrix; Kiss; Kreator; Marilyn Manson; Metallica; Nina Hagen; Nirvana; Prince; Queen; R.E.M.; Radiohead; Red Hot Chilli Peppers; Talking Heads; The Beatles; The Libertines; The Residents; The Rolling Stones; The Who; U2; Velvet Underground; White Stripes . -
Rock & Roll Hall of Fame Exhibits Iconic Rock Photos from Rolling
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: Rock & Roll Hall of Fame Exhibits Iconic Rock Photos from Rolling Stone’s First Chief Photographer Baron Wolman th Iconic: Baron Wolman Images of an Era exhibit opens October 18 Grateful Dead pose outside 710 Ashbury Street, Jimi Hendrix onstage at Fillmore West, Joni Mitchell in her Laurel Canyon home, Grace Slick at Woodstock Festival, and more CLEVELAND, OH (October 7, 2020) – The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame is exhibiting iconic rock photographs of legendary musicians, including Janis Joplin, the Grateful Dead, Jimi Hendrix, Tina Turner, Pete Townshend, and many others, taken in the late Sixties and encapsulating an unparalleled time in American history. The photographs, captured by Baron Wolman, Rolling Stone’s first chief photographer, will be on display in the new exhibit Iconic: Baron Wolman Images of an Era, opening at the Rock Hall on October 18th. “Wolman documented the era and defined it in images for generations of music fans,” said Greg Harris, Rock & Roll Hall of Fame CEO and President. “Wolman’s iconic photographs are a window into a very important time in our country’s social history. His Rolling Stone covers made icons out of the musicians showcased on them.” During his tenure at Rolling Stone, Wolman’s lens captured the icons of Sixties rock and pop music, including Hendrix, Joplin, Turner, Joni Mitchell, the Rolling Stones, the Who, and many others. Wolman’s unique access to his subjects, combined with his keen eye, gave his photographs an up-close-and-personal quality that was rare and unprecedented. “The chance to be a part of the first days of Rolling Stone came out of the blue,” Wolman says. -
Fall 2019 C a Talogue
ACC ART ART BOOKS ACC ACC DISTRIBUTES FOR A WIDE RANGE OF PUBLISHERS: 5 Continents Editions Fine Arts Society/Atelier Books Orchid Press Floating World Editions Papadakis Publisher 13 Things Ltd. Forma Edizioni Pointed Leaf Press Foster + Partners 24 ORE Cultura Franco Cosimo Panini Quart Architektur ACC Art Books Gallimard Red Dot ACC Editions Gambero Rosso Richard Dennis ACR Edition Garden Art Press Ridgewood Publishing LLC America’s Greatest Brands Glitterati Editions River Books Andrea Monfried Editions Grayson Publishing Roli Books Antique Collectors’ Club Grupo Peñín Rovakada Archetype Books Guido Tomassi Editore Arnoldsche Art Publishers Scala Arts Publishers Inc. Art of Publishing Ltd. Hali Publications Scripta Maneant Editori Artpower International Publishers Heel Verlag Shannongrove Press ArtPostAsia Hoxton Mini Press ShareThatQuote.com Artmedia Hudson Hills Press Shinkenchiku-sha Co., Ltd Ashmolean Museum Publications Sieveking Astrostyle Publishing Images Publishing Group Spacemaker Press av edition GmbH Stichting Kunstboek Jaico Publishing House Bauer and Dean Publishers Johan & Levi The Artist Book Foundation 2019 CATALOGUE FALL Ben Uri Gallery & Museum John Adamson The Marg Foundation Beta-Plus Publishing Third Millennium Publishing/Profile Books & Projects KMW Studio Editions This Side Up Callwey Verlag Lannoo Publishers Tongji University Press Cannibal/Hannibal Lange Uhren Carlton Books Ltd. LACMA Urban Jürgensen Chameleon Books Luster Circa Lyon Artbooks Vadehra Art Gallery Congedo Vendange Press M. Shafik Gabr Verlag -
Junya Watanabe Comme Des Garçons 89 & 90
THE NEW MILLENNIUM ERA: THE FUTURE OF TEXTILES By Sarah E. Braddock Clarke TOKYO ZOKEI UNIVERSITY – 23 June 2016 Going back to the 1960s (and 1967 to be precise) British fashion designer Mary Quant said: “Some day we will blow clothes the way we blow glass. It’s ridiculous that fabric should be cut up to make a flat thing go round a round person.” At the very end of the 1990s there were many predictions for what the clothing of the new millennium would look like - The French fashion designer Thierry Mugler said: “The future of fashion? It has none. The trend is no fashion. We are getting nakeder and nakeder.” Continuing with that theme the French philosopher Jean Baudrillard said: “In this new erotic world every illusionistic element is missing (…) the body is present, even over-exposed, but only as part of the technical equipment.” And British designer John Galliano thought that: “The only way to get forward in fashion is to return to construction.” While Karl Lagerfeld believes the future of fashion is in the textiles used… Slide List OPENING 1. Lifestyle & Sport – We Can Make the World Stop by The Glitch Mob – 2011 used by GoPro to show extreme sports of many types, all around the world. The decade of 2000s saw a huge rise in adventure holidays and adrenalin-fuelled extreme sports and this music sums the decade up. Video – 05:12: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOLY7bjCTTE UK 2. Dress of the Year at the Fashion Museum, Bath (started in 1963) – with images and a description of each winner in 2000s from 2000 to 2009: http://www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/galleries/dress-year BOUDICCA 3. -
Cecil Beaton (1904–80) Was One of the Great Creative Figures of the British Twentieth Century
Access Guide Please return at the end of your visit We hope this guide supports your visit. Please speak to any member of staff for more information. VERSION 2 Map Entrance Contents TBC Introduction Cecil Beaton (1904–80) was one of the great creative figures of the British twentieth century. Chiefly known as a photographer of portraits and fashion, through his work for Vogue magazine from 1924 to 1979, he was also recognised as a significant war photographer. An illustrator and caricaturist, a writer and commentator on taste and manners, Beaton was a theatre designer and art director of world renown and an influential stylist of his own homes. This exhibition focuses on Beaton’s early years. Born in Hampstead to a then prosperous timber merchant, Ernest Beaton and his wife Esther (‘Etty’), Cecil was first given a camera in 1914, aged ten. His first subjects were his mother and his willing sisters, Nancy and Barbara (‘Baba’). His transformation from middle-class suburban schoolboy to dazzling society figure against the backdrop of the Roaring Twenties and the Age of Jazz revealed a social mobility barely thinkable before the First World War. Here, then, are the Bright Young Things who brought an extraordinary era vividly to life and in so doing, nurtured and refined a remarkable photographic talent. The strength of his singular vision is such that, when we think of the Bright Young Things, we think of them in Beaton’s costumes, through Beaton’s lens and as Beaton’s friends. For full details of all events please see the What’s On guide or npg.org.uk/events Friday 20 March, 19.00 Lecture ‘When I die I want to go to Vogue’: Cecil Beaton’s Most Enduring Patron with Robin Muir Curator Robin Muir looks at the Cecil Beaton’s long working relationship with Vogue. -
Series Contemporánea
Duffy Bowie Series Contemporánea Press Release DUFFY BOWIE SERIES La Térmica, Málaga From February 14th to March 23rd 2014 Curator: Mario Martín Pareja David Bowie, Scary Monsters, 1979 © Duffy Archive Curated by Mario Martín Pareja, La Térmica presents the photographic series which document the relationship between David Bowie and Brian Duffy, the man who change the face of British and European Photography “Duffy was a commercial photographer, a picture-maker for paying clients in the worlds of fashion, marketing and the print media... An anarchic, abrasive, provocative young talent in 60s London who precisely sensed the seismic shifts in British culture that could allow him to invent himself as one of the most successful of a new breed of fashionable photographers.” Philippe Garner, International Head of Photography, Christie’s Duffy, 1986 © Trevor Leighton Contemporánea Contact [email protected] Mario Martín www.contemporanea.org +34 686 265 924 Duffy Bowie Series Contemporánea DUFFY BOWIE SERIES “Bowie Series” opening will be on February 14 at La Termica, an artspace created by Malaga Diputacion Provincial. This exhibition is a visual record of the photographic genius. Duffy’s newly restored body of work firmly cements his place in British photography as part of the notorious “Black Trinity” that defined the visual language of swinging sixties London and pre-Punk era. The exhibition includes a unique collection of photographs never before seen behind the scenes images will feature in the exhibition. “Duffy. Bowie Series” comprises of images taken during five photographic sessions with iconic musician David Bowie, released to coincide with the Victoria and Albert Museum’s ‘David Bowie is’ exhibition in Sao Paolo (Brazil). -
New Frameworks in Deconstructivist Fashion
New Frameworks in Deconstructivist Fashion: Its Categorization in Three Waves, Application of the Notions of Plasticity, De-design and the Inclusion of Bora Aksu and Hussein Chalayan as the Third Wave Turkish Deconstructivist Designers Gizem Kızıltunalı A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the Manchester Metropolitan University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy The Manchester School of Art MIRIAD Manchester Metropolitan University August 2017 Contents Abstract……………………………………………………………………………………4 Acknowledgements……………………………………………………………………5 List of Figures……………………………………………………………………………6 Introduction…………………………………………………………………………….16 Literature Review……………………………………………………………………..30 Methodology…………………………………………………………………………….64 Chapter One: Theoretical qualities of deconstructivist fashion design ……………………………………………………………………………………………….73 Chapter Two: Observing plasticity, the de-designs and deconstructions of the first wave Japanese and the second wave Belgian deconstructivist designers …………………………………………………………88 Chapter Three: Third wave Turkish deconstructivist designers: Hussein Chalayan and Bora Aksu.…………………………………………………………..159 Chapter Four: The de-designs and deconstructions of the third wave deconstructivist designers: Hussein Chalayan and Bora Aksu..………170 Chapter Five: Commonalities of the third wave Turkish deconstructivist designers: Metamorphosis of the fashion system, deconstruction through culture………………………………………………………………………..244 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………….365 Bibliography…………………………………………………………………………….376 -
Window Shopping: Commercial Inspiration for Fashion in the Museum." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress
Petrov, Julia. "Window Shopping: Commercial Inspiration for Fashion in the Museum." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019. 31–62. Bloomsbury Collections. Web. 30 Sep. 2021. <http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350049024.ch-003>. Downloaded from Bloomsbury Collections, www.bloomsburycollections.com, 30 September 2021, 00:32 UTC. Copyright © Julia Petrov 2019. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher, and provide a link to the Creative Commons licence. 2 WINDOW SHOPPING: COMMERCIAL INSPIRATION FOR FASHION IN THE MUSEUM In his work on the “exhibitionary complex,” Tony Bennett (1996) showed how nineteenth-century museums and galleries were intimately connected in their design and conception to the expanding commercial architecture of the same period. The technical possibilities and visual experiences of industrial exhibitions and shopping arcades found analogous applications in museum spaces. As Mackie noted, “Both the retail shop and the public repository are designed for the display of information that is predominantly visual: looking is a means for possession as well as knowledge” (1996: 325). This blurring of commercial and intellectual cultures within the museum continues to create unease and controversy, particularly in the case of fashion exhibitions (Anaya 2013; Gamerman 2014). This chapter investigates how the introduction of fashion—an increasingly important economic and social product in the industrial period—into museums created new connections and tensions between these two worlds. It was because of its position between the disciplines of economy and history that historical fashion entered and was interpreted in museums.