L. G. C. E. Pugh Papers
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Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
Human Factors in High-Altitude Mountaineering
Journal of Human Performance in Extreme Environments Volume 12 Issue 1 Article 1 Published online: 5-8-2015 Human Factors in High-Altitude Mountaineering Christopher D. Wickens Alion Science and Technology, [email protected] John W. Keller Alion Science and Technology, [email protected] Christopher Shaw Alion Science and Technology, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://docs.lib.purdue.edu/jhpee Part of the Industrial and Organizational Psychology Commons Recommended Citation Wickens, Christopher D.; Keller, John W.; and Shaw, Christopher (2015) "Human Factors in High-Altitude Mountaineering," Journal of Human Performance in Extreme Environments: Vol. 12 : Iss. 1 , Article 1. DOI: 10.7771/2327-2937.1065 Available at: https://docs.lib.purdue.edu/jhpee/vol12/iss1/1 This document has been made available through Purdue e-Pubs, a service of the Purdue University Libraries. Please contact [email protected] for additional information. This is an Open Access journal. This means that it uses a funding model that does not charge readers or their institutions for access. Readers may freely read, download, copy, distribute, print, search, or link to the full texts of articles. This journal is covered under the CC BY-NC-ND license. Human Factors in High-Altitude Mountaineering Christopher D. Wickens, John W. Keller, and Christopher Shaw Alion Science and Technology Abstract We describe the human performance and cognitive challenges of high altitude mountaineering. The physical (environmental) and internal (health) stresses are first described, followed by the motivational factors that lead people to climb. The statistics of mountaineering accidents in the Himalayas and Alaska are then described. -
1953 Conquest of Mount Everest
1953 Conquest of Mount Everest Mount Everest is in the Himalaya mountain range located between Nepal and Tibet, an autonomous region of China. At 8,849 meters (29,032 feet), it is considered the tallest point on Earth. In the 19th century, the mountain was named after George Everest, a former Surveyor General of India. The Tibetan name is Chomolungma, which means “Mother Goddess of the World.” The Nepali name is Sagarmatha. The 1953 British Mount Everest expedition was the ninth to attempt the first ascent and the first confirmed to have succeeded when Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and (later Sir) Edmund Hillary reached the summit on 29 May 1953. Led by Colonel John Hunt, it was organised and financed by the Joint Himalayan Committee. News of the expedition's success reached London in time to be released on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation on 2nd June. The conquest of Everest caught the imagination of the world. So, there are many commemorative & souvenir issues & first day covers. Consequently, it can make a good philatelic theme. This display shows just a small selection of what is available. This Indian first day cover shows a photo, taken by Edmund Hillary, of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay on the summit. Postcard - Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay & Sir John Hunt’s Expedition Team Sir John Hunt (L), leader of the British Everest expedition, and Sir Edmund Hillary (R) arrive at Lancaster House for reception being given in their honour. Earlier they had been received by Queen Elizabeth who knighted the two men. Edmund Hilary Quotes “People do not decide to become extraordinary. -
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering: Entrepreneurship, Commercialisation and the Career Climber, 1953-2000 Thomas P. Barcham Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of De Montfort University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Submission date: March 2018 Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4 Acknowledgments ................................................................................................................................... 5 Table of Abbreviations and Acronyms .................................................................................................... 6 Table of Figures ....................................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 8 Literature Review ............................................................................................................................ 14 Definitions, Methodology and Structure ........................................................................................ 29 Chapter 2. 1953 to 1969 - Breaking a New Trail: The Early Search for Earnings in a Fast Changing Pursuit .................................................................................................................................................. -
The Contribution of Medical Science to the First Ascent of Everest
MICHAEL WARD The Contribution ofMedical Science to the First Ascent ofEverest The Solution of the High-Altitude Problem (Plates 30-33) This article should be read in conjunction with 'The Exploration of the Nepalese Side of Everest' by Michael Ward, which appeared in Af97, 2I3 221, L992/93. The two articles, taken together, cover a progression ofsignifi cant events, both scientific and topographical, which took place between 1945 and the first ascent ofEverest in L 953. The linkage is set out in Appendix 3 on pages 50-5r. The opening of Nepal in 1949, and the confirmation of a possible new route up Everest by the 1951 Reconnaissance expedition, gave a powerful impetus to high-altitude studies; for despite the best efforts of medical scientists and mountaineers in the 1920S and 1930S, the final thousand feet of the mountain remained unclimbed. Between 1921 and 1938 about 25 people had reached a height of 27,000ft and above, eight climbing to 28,000ft, both with and without supplementary oxygen. At these heights, ascents without using oxy gen are at the limit of what is medically and physiologically possible, yet it was still unclear whether the use of oxygen was as effective as acclimatisation in generating a performance adequate to reach the summit. It was the solution of this problem by Dr Griffith Pugh and his colleagues at the Medical Research Council in London and on the Cho Oyu expedition in 1952 that was to be a key factor in the first ascent of Everest. The use of supplementary oxygen before the Second World War Some of the best respiratory physiologists had helped early Everest expedi tions. -
Breathing at Extreme Altitudes. Scientific Projects “EVEREST” (First Part)
Review Breathing at extreme altitudes. Scientific projects “EVEREST” (First part) Breathing at extreme altitudes. Scientific projects “EVEREST” (First part) Eduardo Garrido1,2, Oriol Sibila3, Ginés Viscor2,4 1Servicio de Hipobaria y Fisiología Biomédica. Universidad de Barcelona. 2Instituto de Estudios de Medicina de Montaña. Barcelona. 3Servicio de Neumología. Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau. Barcelona. 4Departamento de Biología Celular, Fisiología e Inmunología. Universidad de Barcelona. Received: 03.03.2017 Summary Accepted: 31.05.2017 Climbing to the highest height on Earth, the Mt. Everest (8.848 m), without supplementary oxygen equipment involves a physiological demand that is close to the maximum human tolerance. Exposures at extreme altitudes drastically conditions lung function, stores of oxygen and physical performance. This review brings interesting aspects about respiration, blood gases and aerobic exercise reported by those scientific projects that have carried out physiological measurements between 8,000 m and 8,848 m above sea level, under real or simulated altitude: the Operations “Everest I” (1946), “Everest II” (1985), “Everest III-COMEX” (1997), and the Expeditions “AMREE” (1981), “British 40th Anniversary Everest” (1993), and “Caudwell Xtrem Everest” (2007). These fascinating scientific research events, along with other outstanding biomedical expeditions perfor- med above 5,500 m, like especially the “Silver Hut” (1960-61), “Italiana all’Everest” (1973), and “British Everest Medical” (1994), including those pioneer scientific reports made on the XIX century until the most recent research projects performed, have laid the foundations and knowledge on the human tolerance to such extreme levels of hypobaric hypoxia, where the lung, breathing and respiratory chain takes on a major role requiring fine physiological adjustments to ensure cellular oxygenation. -
Mount Everest, 8848 M Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse
Mount Everest, 8848 m Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse (von Günter Seyfferth, www.himalaya-info.org) 1953 Erstbesteigung durch die britische Expedition unter Leitung von John Hunt von der nepalesischen Südseite Vorbemerkung zu den Höhenangaben der Briten: Im Expeditionsbuch von John Hunt sind die Lager teilweise mit widersprüchlichen Höhenangaben versehen. Ich verwende hier Höhen- angaben, die unabhängig von diesem Buch anhand der Positionen der Lager ermittelt sind. Mit großer Spannung hatten die Briten die Besteigungsversuche der Schweizer am Mount Eve- rest verfolgt. Jetzt hatten sie zum sechsten Mal die Chance, die Ersten am Gipfel des Mount Everest zu sein. Am 12. April trifft die erste Gruppe der britischen Expedition unter Leitung von John Hunt am Fuß des Khumbu-Eisbruchs ein. Die Expedition war zwar schon am 26. März beim Kloster Thy- angboche angekommen, hatte aber von dort zunächst Erkundungstouren in die Seitentäler un- ternommen, um sich an die Höhe zu gewöhnen. In den folgenden Tagen treffen alle Teilnehmer am Khumbu-Gletscher ein. Das Basislager (die Briten nennen es Lager 1) wird in 5350 m Höhe direkt gegenüber dem Eisbruch errichtet. Obwohl von Durchfallerkrankungen geschwächt, ge- lingt es der erste Gruppe bereits am 15. April, im oberen Drittel des Eisbruchs das Lager 2 in 5870 m Höhe zu errichten. Lager 3 jenseits des oberen Randes Eisbruchs entsteht am 22. April in 6050 m Höhe. Bei den vielen Passagen durch den gefährlichen Eisbruch gibt es einige Unfäl- le, die aber alle ohne nennenswerte Folgen bleiben. Am 1. Mai steht Lager 4 im Gletscherbe- cken des Western CWM in 6420 m Höhe. Dieses Lager wird zum vorgeschobenen Basislager ausgebaut, von dem aus die Lhotseflanke erschlossen werden soll und von wo alle Aktivitäten weiter oben vorbereitet werden. -
Original Photographs from the Legendary First Ascent PDF Book Jul 25, Randall Rated It Really Liked It
THE CONQUEST OF EVEREST: ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE LEGENDARY FIRST ASCENT PDF, EPUB, EBOOK George Lowe,Huw Lewis-Jones | 240 pages | 15 May 2013 | Thames & Hudson Ltd | 9780500544235 | English | London, United Kingdom The Conquest of Everest: Original Photographs from the Legendary First Ascent PDF Book Jul 25, Randall rated it really liked it. Continue to browse in english. Alfred Gregory. The expedition's cameraman, Tom Stobart , produced a film called The Conquest of Everest , which appeared later in [53] and was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature. Retrieved 21 June You May Also Like. Michael Ward. The photography is a true step into their world and humbles you to behold it' Photography Monthly 'The photographs are stunning and, in many cases, moving' Financial Times. The following year, Lowe went with them to Nepal as a member of the expedition to Cho Oyu aiming to explore physiology and oxygen flow rates. Illustrations: The mountaineers were accompanied by Jan Morris known at the time under the name of James Morris , the correspondent of The Times newspaper of London, and by porters , so that the expedition in the end amounted to over four hundred men, including twenty Sherpa guides from Tibet and Nepal, with a total weight of ten thousand pounds of baggage. Which being interpreted meant: "Summit of Everest reached on May 29 by Hillary and Tenzing" John Hunt at Base Camp had lost hope that news of the successful ascent would reach London for the Coronation, and they listened with "growing excitement and amazement" when it was announced on All India Radio from London on the evening of 2 June, the day of the Coronation. -
Mount Everestn Sherry Ortner
"Who Shapes the Text? Sherpas and Sahibs On Mount Everestn Sherry Ortner CSST Worklng CRSO Working Paper #56 Paper #446 October 1990 WHO SHAPES THE TEXT?: Sherpas and sahibs on Mount Everest Sherry B. Ortner Prepared for the "Historic Turn" Conference University of Michigan, October 1900 Introduction The question of representation has been defined as one of the central problems of contemporary social theory. The question has various manifestations. One of the most potent versions of it is presented in Edward Said's Orientalism (1979). Said argues that the "knowledgew we have about "the Orientttis largely shaped by "Orientalism as a Western style for dominating, restructuring, and having authority over the Orienttt(p.3). Orientalism is constituted as an internally consistent discourse whose order is primarily given by the real-world structures of domination as these are refracted through academic writing as well as popular representations of "Oriental" cultures. Orientalism so defined controls to an inordinate extent what can be said, felt, understood about the Orient: ...so authoritative a position did Orientalism have that I believe no one writing, thinking, or acting on the Orient could do so without taking account of the limitations on thought and action imposed by Orientalism. In brief, because of Orientalism the Orient was not (and is not) a free subject of thought or action.(ibid.) At one level, Said is absolutely right, which is why his book had such a powerful and widespread impact. It is not only a problem of writing about the Orient; it is a problem of writing about any people who have been dominated by the West, or even about dominated groups within the west. -
Beyond the Edge: Film Study Guide
BEYOND THE EDGE: FILM STUDY GUIDE DIRECTED BY LEANNE POOLEY “WE KNOCKED THE BASTARD OFF” SIR EDMUND HILLARY OUR GREATEST ADVENTURE COMES TO LIFE SIR EDMUND HILLARY’S JOURNEY TO THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST. LEANNE (THE TOPP TWINS: DIRECTED BY POOLEY UNTOUCHABLE GIRLS) GENERAL FILM CORPORATION IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE NEW ZEALAND FILM COMMISSION NZ ON AIR’s PLATINUM FUND AND DIGIPOST PRESENTS A MATTHEW METCALFE PRODUCTION “BEYOND THE EDGE” HAIR AND MAKE-UP DESIGNER DAVINA LAMONT COSTUME DESIGNER BARBARA DARRAGH SOUND DESIGN BRUNO BARRETT-GARNIER ORIGINAL MUSIC BY DAVID LONG LINE PRODUCER CATHERINE MADIGAN PRODUCTION DESIGNER GRANT MAJOR DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD BLUCK EDITOR TIM WOODHOUSE SCREEN STORY BY MATTHEW METCALFE AND LEANNE POOLEY PRODUCED BY MATTHEW METCALFE WRITTEN AND DIRECTED BY LEANNE POOLEY © 2013 GFC (EVEREST) LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Check the Classification COMING TO CINEMAS OCTOBER 24 1 BEYOND THE EDGE STARRING Chad Moffitt, Sonam Sherpa IN CINEMAS OCTOBER 24 “It’s not the mountain we conquer – but ourselves.” SIR EDMUND HILLARY 60 years ago on May 29, 1953, two men stood for the first time on the top of the world on the summit of Mount Everest. As news of their achievement filtered out, Queen Elizabeth the II was preparing for her Coronation on June 2 and the world was already in a mood to celebrate. www.beyondtheedgefilm.com CONTACT: Caroline Whiteway RIALTO DISTRIBUTION [email protected] 2 JOURNEY TO THE EDGE FILM STUDY GUIDE BY SUSAN BATTYE The following activities are based on the achievement objectives in the New Zealand English Curriculum and Media and English NCEA Achievement Standards. -
THE RESONANCE of EXPLORATION by Patrick Cassidy
THE RESONANCE OF EXPLORATION by Patrick Cassidy B.A. (The Catholic University of America) 2012 THESIS / CAPSTONE Submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS in HUMANITIES in the GRADUATE SCHOOL of HOOD COLLEGE April 2019 Accepted: Amy Gottfried, Ph.D. Corey Campion, Ph.D. Committee Member Program Director Tammy Krygier, Ph.D. Committee Member April M. Boulton, Ph.D. Dean of the Graduate School Corey Campion, Ph.D. Capstone Adviser EMBARKATION What constitutes the crowning achievement for a nation or a society? In his book Men From Earth, Buzz Aldrin stated that the Apollo Program was the single most audacious endeavor in human history.1 Aldrin implied that there is a pinnacle of achievement which a nation reaches. In some cases this pinnacle is represented in a physical structure, but in others it is represented in an extraordinary feat. In his essay, “Apollo’s Stepchildren: New Works on the American Lunar Program,” Matthew Hersch expanded on Aldrin’s point. He stated, “History tends to remember each civilization for a single achievement: the Egyptians, their pyramids; the Chinese, their Great Wall; the Romans, their roads.”2 In addition to these architectural or engineering achievements, an extraordinary feat such as an exploratory endeavor can stand as the crowning achievement for a nation. There are several explorations which come to mind that serve as the crowning achievement for the nations involved. As Aldrin pointed out, the landing of men on the moon in 1969 is perceived as a pinnacle of achievement for Americans. In the same context, the Soviet Space Program and its achievements in the 1960s, represent a crowning achievement for Russia. -
Tenzing Norgay's Four Flags
Kunapipi Volume 34 Issue 2 Article 6 2012 Tenzing Norgay’s four flags Stephen Slemon Follow this and additional works at: https://ro.uow.edu.au/kunapipi Part of the Arts and Humanities Commons Recommended Citation Slemon, Stephen, Tenzing Norgay’s four flags, Kunapipi, 34(2), 2012. Available at:https://ro.uow.edu.au/kunapipi/vol34/iss2/6 Research Online is the open access institutional repository for the University of Wollongong. For further information contact the UOW Library: [email protected] Tenzing Norgay’s four flags Abstract It is 11.30 a.m. on May 29th, 1953; and though Europe now lies dormant in post-war exhaustion, although global decolonisation from the once great European empires is proving itself everywhere to be an unstoppable force, the paradigmatic moment in British imperial self-representation is about to go down. Two men stand roped together on top of the world’s highest mountain. The first is a beekeeper from New Zealand: a citizen of the old, white Commonwealth of nations. The second proves a little more difficulto t define. Ethnically, he identifies himself as a ‘Sherpa’ — by which he means in part that he comes from Mongolian background, via Tibet. Nationally, because born in Nepal but now living in Darjeeling, he calls himself Nepali, but sometimes Indian, and sometimes Nepali- Indian. Linguistically, he identifies Sherpa as his mother tongue — this language derives from Tibetan. This journal article is available in Kunapipi: https://ro.uow.edu.au/kunapipi/vol34/iss2/6 32 STEpHEN SLEMoN Tenzing Norgay’s Four Flags It is 11.30 a.m.