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travel | the wealth collection 50 a city of style : haslost nothing of its individuality. abetter time to visit acity that, for all its chic boutiques, designer hotels and gourmet restaurants, BuenosAires is back. As recovers from adecade-long recession, there has never been MarkCO’Flaherty explores the ‘ of the South’. 17/9/07 11:11:26 travel | the wealth collection

17/9/07 11:12:50 the 51 any of Paris, which is one of of one is which Paris, of lermo Pa art of arrondissement Relaxing in the gardens of Hotel Home Home Hotel of gardens the in Relaxing (above). O’Shea Patricia by run (left), around the This is the home of Buenos Aires’ own docklands docklands own Aires’ Buenos of home the is This and barbecued meats at the low key but often often but key low the at meats barbecued and and hotelier Alan Faena’s Manchester brick brick Manchester Faena’s Alan hotelier and anything never is Faena at poolside the building, chair gilt and velvet red The hip. totally than less the – attraction major a also is inside space cabaret And town. in best the arguably is here show tango classic of mix a find to going you are else where within all modern, strikingly the with Aires Buenos martini? a of reach a whole, apartments here are at London levels or or levels London at are here apartments whole, a rising. and higher, asymmetric Calatrava’s Santiago renaissance. much- neighbouring, the and bridge pedestrian are Universe + Hotel Faena Starck-designed hyped, newcomers design other which by benchmarks the will you what Say themselves. judge area the to socialite of interior the of fantasia OTT the about restaurant, La Brigada, in the historic, antique shop- antique historic, the in Brigada, La restaurant, empanadas parilla an essential p andering While the more cutting edge area of Palermo is being compared with with compared being is Palermo of area edge cutting more the While is small stores of Architectural Architectural renaissance on lunching After celebrity-filled new the where Madera, Puerto to over taxi Telmo, San of district festooned architects innovative most world’s the by interpreted being is optimism of spirit as city the across steal a of something remains property While scale. grand a on time to indulge in more classic fare. Much of the Recoleta area of the city has, has, city the of area Recoleta the of Much fare. classic more in indulge to time 16th the of air an manners, and looks in Light. of City the with comparisons many so draws BA why reasons the its on is Tribeca and established is SoHo own (its York New bohemian-era luxury the perusing before eat lunch who ladies the where is Recoleta way), of epicentre The flagships. Milanese and Parisian the and goods leather and all, them of mall swankiest the Bullrich, Patio the is Recoleta consumer wanted. always you’ve know didn’t you shoes skin crocodile those find designer to place Argentine Tramando, nearby visit luxury, on take modern more a For womenswear. vibrant but sleek of full boutique, Churba’s Martin A morning spent w visit to Buenos Aires. -

Martin Barrantes is one of Argentina’s most famous polo players polo players most famous is one of Barrantes Martin Argentina’s de Maria Santa los development vineyard the and private co-runs He in lives Aires. Buenos (www.santamariadelosandes.com). Andes to area fun a is which Telmo, San recommend I’d city the to visitor any ‘For is Palermo tango. street up soaking and antiques for searching around potter The insider

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When I go out for drinks I go to Congo for hip cocktails at the weekend and Bar 6 for a mid-week mid-week a for 6 Bar and weekend the at cocktails hip for Congo to go I drinks for out go I When The best place to shop for boots is Fagliano. For wines visit any of Alvera’s wine boutiques. La boutiques. wine Alvera’s of any visit wines For Fagliano. is boots for shop to place best The 1950s look and 1950s – tulip lots of rosewood Jeroen editor travel said wallpaper* chairs,’ Home won Best New at Hotel Bergmans. 2007. awards design the wallpaper* blocks from where the hotel stands today. today. the stands hotel where from blocks style All have own their 17 distinct rooms European vintage mixing theme, with a retro wool rugs and Chilean custom- wallpapers, wood beds with CD watambu made native and MP3 Wi-Fi. players and book libraries, Danish ‘It is with hotel a a retro wonderful Home, Buenos Aires hip Palermo in Aires’s Located Buenos the Home Hotel was neighbourhood, Viejo and Cunill Rodrigo by architects designed The is hotel run by Patricia Grichener. Juana a up O’Shea, BA who a grew native, few chilled drink; the interior is stunning. For dinner I’d recommend El Obrero in La Boca, which has has which Boca, La in Obrero El recommend I’d dinner For stunning. is interior the drink; chilled five is which Petanque, Also family. like you treat staff the and food, Argentine traditional best the seafood.’ exquisite for Oviedo and , in I’m like feel me makes but home my from minutes the place to shop for trendy furniture, clothing and art, and enjoy some of the zillions of bars and and bars of zillions the of some enjoy and art, and clothing furniture, trendy for shop to place the America.’ South of Paris the is BA say people why discover you’ll Alvear Avenida On restaurants. furniture. for Paz Ricardo O and Laura and clothing, men’s for great are Negra Etiqueta and Dolfina alfajores the cobbled streets The sun is up, ing short Argentine of institution. an t’s breakfast time at Mark’s Deli: A coffee comes with a breakfast de Deli: rigeurtime at t’s Mark’s side of A morning spent wandering around the small stores of Palermo is an an is Palermo of stores small the around wandering spent morning A Buenos Aires is enjoying one of its most dramatic upswings in living living in upswings dramatic most its of one enjoying is Aires Buenos women with very distinct, unique styles. Gadea’s work is intricate, with with intricate, is work Gadea’s styles. unique distinct, very with women a with workwear blends fashion Zlotogora’s while lace, and them like embroidery anything find won’t You fantasy. of flights and twist medieval mothers own their become they’ve necessity, through because, else anywhere invention. of it’s new, what’s seeing after Then, Aires. Buenos to visit any of part essential Independent designers large, one become have world the of rest the in areas shopping upscale the As predominantly still are Palermo of stores the concession, LVMH luxurious thing, own their done have designers Fashion operations. independent small and Gadea Cecilia of likes the to home are streets cobbled these now and and men for ateliers own their run who designers two Zlotogora, Nadine centre of the style universe. centre of the style universe. has economy the cycle, bust and boom the around spins several After memory. in itself with away running is and crash financial 2001 the from up itself picked had has it linger, crash the of memories bad While shoes. couture high-heeled term. medium to short the in effects positive unexpectedly some I aired are and well the boutique owners are getting ready to open up for the the most This fashionable is quarterPalermo, in what is arguably the day. is the that busiest Mark’s Given most fashionable city in the today. world coffee on the shop which crossroads in it the stands area, must be the very TWC007_039_BA v2.indd 51 Norman Foster’s Aleph apartment complex at Puerto Madera (left); The romantic Candelaria del Monte (above).

It’s worth spending an hour or so strolling around Puerto Madera, around the outside of the new Faena apartment complex which was designed by The hit list Norman Foster and overlooks the water. Sitting on the quayside, you’d The Wealth Collection’s choice of the top places to be hard pushed to find a more arrestingly handsome bunch of people stay, eat, shop and be seen in Buenos Aires. anywhere in the world than the portenos (the ‘people of the port’). The people are an integral part of the feelgood factor of Buenos Aires. As Alan IN TOWN Faena himself puts it, ‘Everybody wants to spend more time here. There’s Palacio Duhuah-Park Hyatt, Avenida Alvear 1661. Tel: 5171 1234 nice sun, good food, beautiful women, handsome men, nice nightlife, great This renovated family mansion has been sympathetically annexed with a meat... What more could you want?’ pristine new sci-fi tower in the centre of elegant Recoleta; a shimmering marble, crystal and silver temple of classic-with-a-twist glamour. Art and elegance From Puerto Madera’s alfresco beauty pageant, make your way to MALBA, Hotel Home, Av Honduras 5608. Tel: 4778 1008 Eduardo Constantini’s impressive collection of contemporary Latin If you want to stay in Palermo, you want to stay here. Ignore the American art. The exhibitions are fine indeed, but the building, with its underwhelming exterior; the bright 50s interior has plenty of boutique dramatic angular sweeps and terraces, is the star of the show. wow factor, all within walking distance of the city’s hippest action. Even if it wasn’t housed within the finest hotel in the city, the art collection in the gallery at the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt (see Hit List) would still be a La Bourgogne, Av Alvear 1891. Tel: 4805 3857 must. Once you’re suitably culturally enriched, check into the Duhau’s rather Jean Paul Bondoux’s cooking in this, the very heart of the glamorous Alvear wonderful spa and then take drinks in the multi-tiered garden between the Palace hotel, shouldn’t be overlooked in favour of newer destinations. The two wings of the palace – overpoweringly la dolce vita. room is surprisingly contemporary in style while the predominantly French- style menu is as rich as it is inventive. The wine list is a wonder. Nightlife For another pre-dinner cocktail (no one eats early here!) or indeed dinner Olsen, Gorriti 5870. Tel: 4776 7677 itself, stroll up the hill to the polished concrete and candlelit Gran Bar Scandinavian smoresbrod and vodka flights served in a shrine to Danzon, a sibling of similarly super modern destination dining rooms contemporary Danish interior design. The front garden is very much the Sucre and El Diamante. Move on to Osaka for Peruvian/Japanese fusion focal point of the Palermo ‘Hollywood’ media celebrity scene. cuisine or Casa Cruz for wild-style progressive and lush dishes such as poached oysters with truffle and pear. Both of these Palermo restaurants Juan Carlos Pallarols, Defensa 1039, San Telmo. Tel: 4300 6555 have white-hot scenes and it can be tricky to secure a table, so ensure your Silversmith Juan Carlos is the sixth generation Pallarols to control this concierge is on the case the minute you’ve made up your mind about atelier, and his work is truly exquisite – as you’d expect from the studio where you want to go. that produces all of the silverware for the Vatican. To round off any night out in Buenos Aires, hurl yourself (metaphorically of course) into the culture of the milonga, the traditional milieu of the Rossi & Caruso, Posadas 1387, Recoleta. Tel: 4811 1965 tango. Lest we forget, for all the forward thinking that’s going on here, The colourways, quality and design on display at the flagship store of tango is still the fast-beating heart of the city. Since 2001, it’s enjoyed a Argentina’s most famous luxury leather manufacturer justify the inevitable high-profile renaissance, with the young of Argentina throwing pop culture excess baggage. Simply sumptuous. into the mix to create ‘electronic tango’. See it in action and be enthralled as hundreds of couples of all ages twist around to hip-hop beat cover OUT OF TOWN versions of The Beatles and other musical eccentricities at La Virutaga, the If you can find the time to visit just one estancia, make it Candelaria del hippest milonga of the moment. Sip a glass of fernet and coke and ponder, Monte (www.candelaradelmonte.com.ar. Tel: 2271 442431), run by the from the safety of a side table, how Buenos Aires keeps weaving and infinitely glamorous Inez and Sebastian, just two hours from Buenos Aires. dipping its way around the dancefloor until 6am, wearing heels in which Stay here for a long weekend in the incredibly plush, wildly floral chintz most mere mortals would find it hard to make it from taxi to front door. interior of the farmhouse: hopelessly romantic, atmospheric and luxurious. This is a city that’s got style and energy to burn. n

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