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(12) Patent Application Publication (10) Pub. No.: US 2014/0127257 A1 Schiemann Et Al

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(12) Patent Application Publication (10) Pub. No.: US 2014/0127257 A1 Schiemann Et Al US 2014O127257A1 (19) United States (12) Patent Application Publication (10) Pub. No.: US 2014/0127257 A1 Schiemann et al. (43) Pub. Date: May 8, 2014 (54) DERMATOLOGICALLY EFFECTIVE YEAST Publication Classification EXTRACT (51) Int. Cl. (75) Inventors: Yvonne Schiemann, Essen (DE); Mike A61E36/064 (2006.01) Farwick, Essen (DE); Thomas Haas, CI2P I/02 (2006.01) Muenster (DE); Mirja Wessel, Bochum A61E36/06 (2006.01) (DE) (52) U.S. Cl. CPC ............... A61K 36/064 (2013.01); A61K 36/06 (73) Assignee: EVONIK DEGUSSA GMBH, Essen (2013.01); CI2P I/02 (2013.01) (DE) USPC ...................................... 424/195.16; 435/171 (21) Appl. No.: 14/128,244 (22) PCT Fled: Jun. 14, 2012 (57) ABSTRACT (86) PCT NO.: PCT/EP2012/061263 The invention relates to a method for producing a dermato S371 (c)(1), logically active yeast extract, comprising the following steps: (2), (4) Date: Dec. 20, 2013 providing a preculture of the yeast cells, culturing the cells for (30) Foreign Application Priority Data at least fifteen minutes at a pH of 1.8-4, harvesting the cells and lysing the cells, and a yeast extract produced thereby and Jun. 29, 2011 (EP) .................................. 11171953.0 products comprising said yeast extract. Patent Application Publication May 8, 2014 Sheet 1 of 3 US 2014/O127257 A1 -0-Yarrowia------------ lipolytica -- Pichia CBS 1991 - A - Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Fig. 1 US 2014/O127257 A1 May 8, 2014 DERMATOLOGICALLY EFFECTIVE YEAST skin. Against the background of consumers’ uncertainty with EXTRACT respect to genetic engineering techniques, there is a particular demand for corresponding agents that can be regarded, 0001. The invention relates to a method for producing a according to strict yardsticks, as purely biological, especially dermatologically active yeast extract, comprising the follow those that can be produced without using genetic engineering ing steps: providing a preculture of the yeast cells, cultivating techniques and/or corresponding organisms. the cells for at least fifteen minutes at a pH of 1.8-4, harvesting the cells and lysing the cells, and a yeast extract produced 0007 WO2010087503 describes the biotechnological use thereby and products comprising said yeast extract. of Yarrowia for producing Succinate, but does not teach the 0002 The skin is the largest organ of the human body. use of Yarrowia extracts for dermatologically active agents. Among its many functions, for example for heat control and 0008. The problem to be solved by the invention is to as a sensory organ, its barrier function, which prevents drying provide new dermatologically active agents, application of out of the skin—and thus ultimately of the whole body is which on the skin counteracts the aforesaid effects, and meth certainly the most important. At the same time the skin acts as ods for producing said agents. Furthermore, one of the prob a protective device against the penetration and absorption of lems to be solved by the invention is to develop a dermato substances from outside. This barrier function is provided by logically active agent that is purely biological according to the epidermis, which—as the outermost layer—forms the strict criteria, i.e. in particular one that is produced without actual protective cover against the environment. With about a using genetic engineering techniques or genetically modified tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the organisms. Another problem to be solved by the present skin. The epidermis is a layered tissue, in which the outer invention is to develop a dermatologically active agent that layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), is the important part can be produced from renewable raw materials. for the barrier function. 0009. These and other problems are solved by the object of 0003 Cosmetic skin care is to be understood primarily as the present application and especially also by the object of the reinforcing or restoring the natural function of the skin as a appended independent claims, wherein embodiments follow barrier against environmental factors (e.g. dirt, chemicals, from the subclaims microorganisms) and against loss of endogenous Substances 0010. According to the invention, in a first aspect the prob (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes). If this function is dis lem is solved by a method for producing a dermatologically turbed, there may be increased absorption of toxic or aller active yeast extract, comprising the following steps: a) pro genic Substances or attack by microorganisms, and conse viding a preculture of the yeast cells, c) culturing the cells for quently toxic or allergic skin reactions. at least fifteen minutes at a pH from 1.8 to 4,d) harvesting the 0004. The aim of skin care is also to make up for the loss cells and e) lysing the cells. of fats and water from the skin caused by daily washing. This 0011. In a first embodiment of the first aspect, the method is particularly important when the natural capacity for regen further comprises step b) culturing the cells for at least one eration is inadequate. In addition, skin care products should hour at a temperature from 34 to 39° C. and a pH>5. protect against environmental factors, especially Sun and 0012. In a second embodiment of the first aspect, which wind, and should delay skin ageing. also represents an embodiment of the first embodiment, step 0005 Products for the care of tired, especially aged skin e) is carried out using a water-based lysis agent. are known perse. They contain e.g. retinoids (vitamin Aacid 0013. In a third embodiment of the first aspect, which also and/or derivatives thereof) or vitamin A and/or derivatives represents an embodiment of the first and second embodi thereof. However, their action on structural damage is limited ments, step b) is carried out first, and then step c). in its extent. Furthermore, in product development, 0014. In a fourth embodiment of the first aspect, which adequately stabilizing the active Substances against oxidative also represents an embodiment of the first to third embodi breakdown poses considerable difficulties. Moreover, the use ments, step c) is carried out at a temperature from 34 to 39°C. of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe 0015. In a fifth embodiment of the first aspect, which also erythematous skin irritation. Tired skin is also often accom represents an embodiment of the first to fourth embodiments, panied by a tendency to be overweight and/or by so-called step b) takes 3 to 5 hours. cellulite with which it is often associated. Consumers’ body 0016. In a sixth embodiment of the first aspect, which also awareness has definitely increased in recent years. In addition represents an embodiment of the first to fifth embodiments, to cleaning and caring applications, steps are also increas step c) takes 45 to 75 minutes. ingly being taken for improving the body silhouette. Cellu 0017. In a seventh embodiment of the first aspect, which lite—a widespread phenomenon—occupies a central posi also represents an embodiment of the first to sixth embodi tion in this. The visible picture of cellulite is due to an increase ments, steps b) and c) are carried out at a temperature from 36 in layers of Subcutaneous fat, weakness of the connective to 38° C. tissue and a decrease in perfusion conditions in the blood and 0018. In an eighth embodiment of the first aspect, which lymphatic systems. The cause is therefore a partly constitu also represents an embodiment of the first to seventh embodi tional weakening of the connective tissue with simultaneous ments, step c) is carried out at a pH from 1.9 to 2.2. development of enlarged fat cell compartments as a result of 0019. In a ninth embodiment of the first aspect, which also being overweight, unbalanced nutrition, and lack of move represents an embodiment of the first to eighth embodiments, ment. The development of cellulite can also be attributed to the yeast cell is a yeast cell from the group of genera that increased permeability of the walls of the capillaries, which comprises Yarrowia, Saccharomyces and Pichia, and is pref allows the penetration of water into the connective tissues. erably Yarrowia. 0006 Against this background, there is an increasing 0020. In a tenth embodiment of the first aspect, which also demand for agents whose application on the skin brings about represents an embodiment of the first to ninth embodiments, alleviation or at least slowing of the adverse effects described, step b) is carried out for 3 to 5 hours at a temperature from 36 i.e. in particular has a firming and strengthening effect on the to 38°C. and step c) at a pH from 1.9 to 2.2 and a temperature US 2014/O127257 A1 May 8, 2014 from 36 to 38°C. and for 45 to 75 minutes, and the yeast cells presume that the yeast cells of the genus Yarrowia release a used are yeast cells of the genus Yarrowia. dermatologically active extract because they have cell mem 0021. According to the invention, in a second aspect the brane proteins that interact particularly well with hydropho problem is solved with a yeast extract produced according to bic, high-fat Substrates, and/or the cells comprise one or more the first aspect or one of the embodiments of the first aspect. hitherto unidentified factors that have a positive influence on 0022. According to the invention, in a third aspect, the the metabolism of skin cells. problem is solved with a dermatologically active agent, which 0031. The present invention comprises both extracts from comprises a yeast extract from yeast cells of the genus Yar Yarrowia cells, which have been stressed in every conceivable rowia or a yeast extract according to the second aspect of the way, in particular by temperature, pH and oxidation stress.
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