February 2013 France $495

TODAYThe Magazine of French Travel and Culture

Gourmet Travels in the Camargue Surprising

Volume 28, nO. 2 www.francetoday.com Swiss Wines A Country Village in Paris

Contents february 2013

4 CALENDAR 20 WINE & SPIRITS What’s On & What’s Up Swiss Wines: Coming Into Their Own 6 FAVORITE TABLES 28 Breton singer-songwriter Nolwenn Leroy A Restaurant Roundup by 25 FRENCH KITCHEN France Today Contributors Baking Sweet Treats

8 BOUTIQUE BEAT 27 FILM PICKS Seriously Sexy and Spirited Top Five French Ski Resort Movies 10 DESIGN NOW Wit & Whimsy 28 RENCONTRE Singer/Songwriter 12 Gourmet Travels Nolwenn Leroy in the Camargue: Getting Down to Basics 30 LE MARCHÉ & CLASSIFIEDS 17 STREETS OF PARIS Surprising Mouzaïa: A Country Village in Paris

10 Swing Chair by Patricia Urquiola for Louis Vuitton

12 The Camargue is a paradise for birds 20 The vineyards of Valais, in Switzerland and a pleasure for gourmet travelers Camargue Courtesy Les Salins du Midi; Leroy © Ian McKell; Swing Chair Courtesy Louis Vuitton; Valais © Ellen Wallace

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 3 France Calendar TODAY The Magazine of French Travel and Culture What’s On & What’s Up Publisher Louis F. Kyle FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO FRANCE Editor-in-Chief Judy Fayard Associate Editor/Web Manager PARIS Vivian Thomas Chagall, Entre Guerre The Lovers in Green, 1916–17, by Marc Chagall, Editorial Assistant Claire Senard at the Musée du Luxembourg, Paris et Paix Art Direction Joey Rigg More than 100 works by the Contributors Julien Bisson, Lanie Goodman, Russian artist (born Vitebsk 1887, Jeffrey T. Iverson, Jennifer Ladonne, died Saint-Paul de Vence 1985), Agnès Lascève, Susan Herrmann Loomis, Richelle Harrison Plesse, focused on the momentous period Jean Bond Rafferty, Ellen Wallace between 1917 and 1945, as revolu- Consulting Photographers tion, two world wars, exile, peace Bob Peterson, Guy Marineau, James O'Mara and serenity in the south of France Copy Editing & Translation influenced but didn’t change his Martha Fay, Elizabeth Bell, singular, allegorical style. Wendy Taylor Musée du Luxembourg, 19 rue de Marketing and Digital Coordinator Vaugirard, 6th, Métro: Saint Sulpice, C.C. Glenn, [email protected] 01.40.13.62.00, Subscription Fulfillment Manager www.museeduluxembourg.fr Ahjin Kim, 646.792.2157 €11 Feb 21–July 21 [email protected] Classifieds Fashioning Fashion C.C. Glenn, [email protected] Subtitled “Two Centuries of

Subscribe to France Today European Fashion, 1700–1915”, Call: 800.901.6560 or an exhibit assembled from log on to www.francetoday.com $45/one year in the U.S. important costume collections $80/one year outside the U.S. donated to the Los Angeles To subscribe, renew your subscription, submit change of address or report missing issues, County Museum of Art by contact: antique dealers Martin Kamer France Today Subscription Services: 1 West Street, Ste 100, New York, NY 10004, and Wolfgang Ruf—a sump- Tel 800.901.6560, subscriptions@francetoday. tuous survey of sartorial finery. com. Major credit cards accepted. Allow 6 weeks for first issue to arrive and for change of address. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue To order back issues and for all other inquiries, de Rivoli, 1st, Métro: Palais Royal, contact: 01.44.55.57.50. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr FrancePress, LLC, 1 West Street, Ste 100, Quilt Art: L’Art du two-week Mardi Gras Carnival. New York, NY 10004, Tel 646.792.2203, €9.50 Through Apr 14 Fax 646.792.2144, [email protected] Patchwork This year’s theme: King of the Five Continents. France Today (ISSN #0895-3651) is published Eileen Gray A collection of 25 quilts, dat- monthly except bi-monthly in July-August by A major retrospective for the ing from the 18th to the 20th Nice, www.nicecarnaval.com FrancePress, LLC, 1 West Street, Ste 100, New York, NY 10004. Periodical postage paid in New York, Irish architect, designer and century, representing the long Feb 15–Mar 6 and at additional mailing offices. decorator (1878–1976) who tradition of patchwork through- La Fête du Citron Blot / Gérard ® © RMN / CHAGALL 2013 Paris © ADAGP, Chagall POSTMASTER: send address changes to France moved to Paris in 1906 and out the United States, including Today, 1 West Street, Ste 100, New York, NY 10004 pioneered the modernist move- Hawaii. More festivities on the Côte Copyright 2013 by FrancePress LLC d’Azur with Menton’s annual All rights reserved. France Today is a registered ment of the mid-20th century. Mona Bismarck American Center, trademark of FrancePress LLC. The show traces her work from 34 ave de New York, 16th, Métro: Lemon Festival—day and night Alma Marceau. 01.47.23.38.88. parades, floats decorated with This publication may not be reproduced in whole early lacquered furniture to the www.monabismarck.org or part without prior authorization of the pub- villa E-1027 with Romanian more than 100 tons of citrus lisher. France Today occasionally makes its mailing €7 Feb 13–May 19 fruit and giant citrus “sculp- list available to carefully screened companies architect Jean Badovici on in whose products and services may be of interest Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. tures” in parks and gardens. This to our readers. If you do not wish to receive PROVINCE year’s theme: Around the World these mailings, send instructions along with a Centre Pompidou, Place Georges Carnaval de Nice copy of your mailing label to the address above. Pompidou, 4th, Métro: Rambuteau, in 80 Days: Menton, the Secret 01.44.78.12.33. Parades, flower-decorated floats Stopover. Cover: A tasting at winemaker Jean-Pierre www.centrepompidou.fr and revelers fill the streets as Menton, www.fete-du-citron.com Pellegrin’s Domaine Grand’Cour in Peissy/Satigny, €11–€13 Feb 20–May 20 Switzerland. Photo © Ellen Wallace the city celebrates its traditional Feb 16–Mar 6

4 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc, Early Morning, c.1918, by Ferdinand Hodler, at Fondation Beyeler in Basel

Fête Gloanec, 1888, by Paul Gauguin, at the Atelier Grognard in Rueil-Malmaison

Le Trésor des Marseillais in public documenting the The city of Massalia—today’s coterie of artists that congregated AND DON’T FORGET Marseille—was founded by around Gauguin, Paul Sérusier these events and their closing dates: Phocaean Greek traders around and Emile Bernard in the small 600 BC. Sometime between Breton town of Pont-Aven PARIS 530–500 BC, the colony offered between 1886 and 1920. A fine Canaletto et Venise Musée Maillol, Feb 10 a small temple, called a treasury, occasion to visit the Château de Les Rothschilds en France au XIXe to the sacred site of Delphi on Malmaison, the favorite home Siècle Bibliothèque Nationale/ the Greek mainland. For the of Josephine Bonaparte, right Richelieu, Feb 10 L’Art en Guerre, France 1938–1947 first time, fragments from the next door. Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de temple’s dramatic battle-scene Atelier Grognard, 6 ave du Château Paris, Feb 17 freize are on display in the de Malmaison, Rueil-Malmaison. Les Couleurs du Ciel Musée Carnavalet, Feb 24 donors’ home town. www.mairie-rueilmalmaison.fr €5 Through Apr 8 Et l’Homme Créa…le Robot Centre de la Vieille Charité–Chapelle, Musée des Arts et Métiers, Mar 3 2 rue de la Charité, 04.91.14.59.18. Art du Jeu, Jeu dans l’Art Musée de Costumer le Pouvoir: Cluny, Mar 4 www.culture.marseille.fr Opéra et Cinéma Van Gogh/Hiroshige Pinacothèque €8 Through Apr 15 de Paris, Mar 17 At the National Costume Des Fleurs en Hiver: Delacroix– museum in Moulins, on the Costume for the opera Boris Godunov, Othoniel–Creten Musée Delacroix, Les Peintres de Pont-Aven 1993, at the Costume Center in Moulins Allier River in Auvergne, a Mar 18 Autour de Paul Gauguin Dalí Centre Pompidou, Mar 25 sumptuous show of opera, the- Nearly 150 paintings, drawings from Greek gods and French Les Mille et Une Nuits Institut du and graphic works rarely shown ater and movie costumes for Monde Arabe, Apr 28 grand and powerful characters, kings to Astérix and Salome. Cheveux Chéris Musée du Quai Centre National du Costume de Branly, July 14 Léonard de Vinci, Projets, Scène, Quartier Villars, Route de Dessins, Machines Cité des A medieval château made of citrus fruit, Montilly, Moulins. 04.70.20.76.20. Sciences et de l’Industrie, Aug 18 at the Fête du Citron in Menton www.cncs.fr €6 Through May 20 PROVINCE SWITZERLAND Renaissance Louvre-Lens, Lens, Mar 11 Ferdinand Hodler Versailles et l’Antique Château de An overview of late works by the Versailles, Mar 17 Swiss Symbolist artist, focused Le Temps des Collections Musée des Beaux-Arts, Rouen, May 26 on portraits of his dying com- Marseille-Provence 2013 European panion Valentine Godé-Darel, Cultural Capital: Marseille, Aix- and landscape paintings pared en-Provence, Arles, Aubagne, Gardanne, Istres, Martigues, down to radiant, intensely col- Salon-de-Provence, all year ored panoramas of mountains, lakes and sky. SWITZERLAND Fenêtres: De la Renaissance à Nos Fondation Beyeler, Baselstrasse Jours Fondation de l’Hermitage, 101, Riehen/Basel. +41. 61.645.97.00. Lausanne, May 20 www.fondationbeyeler.ch For more Calendar events: 25 Swiss francs Through May 26 www.francetoday.com Gauguin © Orléans, Musée des Beaux-Arts © photo François Lauginie; Hodler © 2012 Kunsthaus Zürich; costume © CNCS/Photo Pascal François; château © OfficeTourisme de Menton-www.tourisme-menton.fr

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 5 Favorite Tables rue de Belleville in the 19th arrondissement. A roundup of top picks by France Today contributors The shop window makes it very clear what you’re in for. “Spécialiste de vins naturels”, it proclaims, followed by a definition: “Wines from vines free of insecticides, chemical fer- tilizers or any other synthetic product, and produced without chemical correctors.” Camus chose his words well, as they describe more than just the wines he serves. Imagine Le Chapeau Melon as the Belleville apartment of your bon vivant, epicurean artist uncle, and you might start to imagine the decor, ambiance and cuisine—generous, uninhibited and without artifice. A few examples from recent menus: salmon tartare with soy sauce, olive oil and green apple; line- caught jack mackerel, sashimi style, in three marinades; sardine tartelette with tomato Sardegna a Tavola confit and dill; cream of asparagus soup with mint; squab from Racan, near Tours, with PARIS or the simple red or white house wine—you girolle mushrooms and celeriac purée; and might also want to try one of the special after- slow-braised Pyrenees lamb. Sardegna a Tavola dinner wines by the glass. The hundreds of bottles lining the walls Paris boasts scores of Italian restaurants, from Except for the pastas, which vary between come from small, often obscure winemak- plain pizzerias to bastions of alta cucina. But €18 and €22, all these fine indulgences are ers, but fear not, put yourself in the hands of few seem to have as much authenticity as very pricey, and the tab can get sky-high. uncle Camus. A glass of rosé as an aperi- Sardegna a Tavola. Opened in 1997 by Tonino But then a flight ticket to the island would be tif? Why not Domaine Mouressipe’s Cuvée Simbula and his wife Angela, the tiny restau- quite a bit more. Galéjade, a mix of Grenache and Cinsault rant is a must for lovers of Sardinian cuisine— 1 rue de Cotte, 12th, 01.44.75.03.28. €60–€70. that’s hazy and… orange! Galéjade is a a culinary realm of its own that has evolved Wines start at €28. —Julien Bisson Provençal word for a mischievous tall tale, from the island’s historic cultural mix of shep- but any worries will quickly subside with herds and fishermen. It’s easy to be charmed PARIS one whiff of the Cuvée’s litchi, rose and man- by the room’s mellow yellow walls, the color- darin bouquet. Would you like a light red to ful graffiti, the shelves lined with Sardinian Le Chapeau Melon transition from fish to meat? You might try products and the traditional staples hanging Thecave à manger—a wine shop that moon- the biodynamic table wine by Domaine Le from the ceiling—peppers, cured hams, dried lights as a small restaurant—is becoming Briseau, made of 100% Pineau d’Aunis—a sausages, olive branches. But the real treat re- almost as much of a Paris institution as the stunning Loire Valley varietal, here yield- sides in its (very) large plates. bistrot. Le Chapeau Melon, one of the first ing a ruby-colored, surprisingly meaty Written in Sardinian—with proper French and finest examples of the genre, was opened wine redolent of black pepper and red cher- translation—the menu is only indicative, and by Olivier Camus in 2002, a steep trot up ries. Along with the fine food, this cave à

the specialties found on it can vary from one Cathelain © Francine Chapeau Nagelsmith; © Barbara Sardegna

month to another: most of the dishes on offer Le Chapeau Melon strictly respect the seasons. So if you’re not in Paris at the right time, you might not be able to order the succulent orange-scented langous- tines with tagliatelle. But the equally delicious spaghetti alla bottarga (in French poutargue: salted, dried mullet eggs) can be found all year long, and so can the traditional malloreddus (small, ridged pasta shells, like slender gnoc- chi) and the terrific roast suckling pig. As well as excellent Sardinian wines to accompany the meal—Vermentino or Cannonau, for example,

6 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m mirror, now changes every two weeks. It’s hard not to nibble on the delicious sourdough baguette while waiting, but doing it didn’t stop us from tucking into our most recent meal with great gusto. We began with a warm potato salad with duck confit, a flaky girolle mushroom tart topped with a soft-boiled egg, and a terrine of smoked salmon and goat cheese. The generously served main dishes included beef daube with gnocchi; chest- nut-studded sausage with lentils; and rabbit topped with tomatoes, peppers and olives— all simmered, tender and tasty. Desserts vary Le Comptoir du Marché from homemade cakes—pear clafoutis with chocolate sauce—to such simple delights as manger will surely be enticing gourmets to go artichokes à la barigoule. Among the main fromage blanc with raspberry coulis or wine- au naturel for years to come. 92 rue Rébeval, dishes, the magret de canard (duck breast) poached pears. The regional wines are gently 19th, 01.42.02.68.60. Table d’hôte starting with small grenaille potatoes was terrific, and priced (pitchers are only €3–€5) too, so reserv- 8:30 pm Wed–Sun; four-course menu €34. so were the seared scallops with artichokes, ing far in advance is a must. 5 rue Droite, Nice. Wines are at shop prices plus €9 corkage fee. carrots and turnips. For dessert: featherlight 04.93.85.72.32. Fixed price 3-course menu: —Jeffrey T. Iverson panna cotta, crumble-topped chocolate €15. Wines start at €12. —L.G. pudding and a baked apple with chestnut Prices are approximate, per person without NICE mousse. Book well in advance. 8 rue du wine. Marché, Nice. 04.93.13.45.01. A la carte €25- Alexander Lobrano is on temporary leave Le Comptoir du Marché from his A La Carte column to finish his new A few blocks from the Cours Saleya open-air €30. Wines start at €15. book, Hungry for France, to be published by market in Vieux Nice, the Comptoir du Marché —Lanie Goodman Rizzoli next fall. was launched last winter by Armand Crespo, NICE For all our restaurant reviews, see owner-chef of the Bistrot d’Antoine, one of the www.francetoday.com city’s hottest tables. It’s now almost six years Chez Palmyre since he and his wife Sophie took over a 1904 Hidden in the maze of narrow cobblestone landmark restaurant near the Old Town’s court- streets, Chez Palmyre was one of Vieux Nice’s house and revamped it into a wildly popular, long-standing family-style institutions, pre- affordable bistrot with a market-driven black- sided over by the late, grandmotherly chef board menu of classic French and Provençal Palmyre Moni, who opened the 25-seat bis- dishes. Why open a second restaurant, just trot in 1926. In the old days, I used to drop in LOW COST CAR RENTALS around the corner? “It’s a smaller menu—five as Palmyre and her daughter Suzanne toiled starters, five main courses, five desserts, and away in their tiny kitchen, producing simple NEW CAR TAX-FREE LEASES some daily specials thrown in,” says the ever- but tasty traditional Niçois dishes—three gracious Crespo, who formerly worked with courses for €13—for local old-timers who CITROEN ~ RENAULT Jacques Maximin in Nice and Vence. “He’s gossiped in their nissart patois under the still my reference,” Crespo says. “Maximin was neon glare. It was homey food and a hole-in- Lease prices include tax, collision and really the first to give Mediterranean cuisine a the-wall atmosphere. Trendy it wasn’t. theft insurance with No Deductible and more! contemporary identity.” Taken over in 2010 by 28-year-old chef With its winning combo of ultra-fresh Vincent Verneveaux, who trained with Guy DISCOUNTS FOR STUDENTS/FACULTY ingredients, an extensive wine list, mod- Savoy and Jacques Maximin, and his associ- est prices and a delightful decor—think ate Philippe Terranova, the old favorite has www.europebycar.com cozy country kitchen circa 1950—the seen a few changes: The three-course menu Comptoir is always jam-packed with has gone up to €15, and the outstanding Tel: 212-581-3040 local residents, lawyers and judges, and quality of the cuisine is nothing less than 800-223-1516 the trendy-meets-artsy crowd. Chef Lois miraculous. “There’s no freezer and no New York City, New York Guenzati, 23, works in an open-plan kitchen microwave,” says Verneveaux, who heads for A name you turning out dishes as handsome as they are the market at 6:30 every morning. can trust..... flavorful. We began by sharing starters: a The cozy brick-walled bistrot decor has since 1954 small thick-crusted pizza piled high with been spruced up with cloth napkins, orange fresh tomatoes, ham, arugula and moz- checked tablecloths, silver cutlery and a color- zarella; heavenly braised beef ravioli in ful vintage-style “grocery corner” behind the

Comptoir © Lanie Goodman a creamy truffled bouillon; and baby zinc bar. The menu, scrawled on an antique

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The new Lancaster BOUTIQUE BEAT boutique in Paris a line of lingerie that functions, they say, like a “second skin”—light, sensual and elegant. Their designer, whose résumé includes Erès, Princess Tam Tam and Dior, has focused on the highest quality, most technologically advanced fabrics available. The boutique also has a made-to-measure service for hard-to- fit sizes, small or large. Although the Insensée collection dis- penses with tacky clichés of “sexy” lingerie, it certainly doesn’t lack sex appeal. Lace is used as a design element in insets that follow the contours of the body; alluring transpar- ent fabrics and satiny floral prints are more feminine than fatale. It might be described as the thinking woman’s underwear, aimed Seriously at la femme d’esprit, both spirited and intelli- gent—note the in-store library stocked with books about women, by women. After all, Sexy and Spirited what could be sexier than a smart woman by Jennifer Ladonne reptile insets that are available only in the new boutique. They’re all engineered for who’s totally comfortable in her second omen of all ages on both comfort, maneuverability and practicality, at skin? 89 rue du Bac, 7th, 01.45.44.32.48. sides of the Atlantic have irresistible prices. 422 rue Saint Honoré, 8th, www.insensee.com associated the name 01.42.28.88.88. www.lancaster-paris.com Lancaster with quality Aux armes, citoyennes Fauré Le Page, armorer to 18th and 19th handbags and fine crafts- Seriously sexy century French royals, nobles and revolu- Wmanship since the company was founded Will we ever tire of French lingerie? Not tionaries, is the latest entry—and one of the in 1990. Lancaster bags are both chic and if undies this good keep coming along. best—in the race to resurrect ancient pedi-

sporty, with an emphasis on practicality— There’s nary a pinching pushup bra or silver Insensée Courtesy model and boutique Lancaster; Courtesy top, Boutique, greed French companies and elevate them to notably the convertible shoulder-bag/back- G-string to be found in the beautiful new 21st-century luxury status. Like well-known pack, one of the label’s innovative recent Insensée boutique on Paris’s Left Bank that 19th-century luggage-makers Goyard and creations. opened last fall to much acclaim. The cozy That Lancaster chose Paris’s posh rue boutique, designed like a Paris apartment, Saint Honoré for its first dedicated boutique, displays a dozen or more bra-and-panty sets and French designer Ora-Ito to create the carefully engineered for “comfort, comfort, decor, speaks volumes about the company’s comfort”, say the company’s three founders, The Louis Quatorze boutique vision for the future. Or maybe make that all veterans of the French lingerie industry and red shoulder bag futuristic vision, since the new shop resem- and, incidentally, all male. Two, Michael bles a spaceship. All in black, with accents and Kevin Hiridjee, are sons of the founder of chrome and mirror, the sleek, undulat- of Princesse Tam Tam, and the third, Gaël ing walls provide a backdrop for Lancaster’s Moreau, worked with that company for hallucinatory color palette—one of the com- many years. pany’s great strengths. Take the crossbody These “hommes féministes”, as they call Insouciante, in Versailles bag, in patent leather or soft cow- themselves, went to great lengths to create black lace, hide, a versatile little bag that comes in 15 by Insensée colors, ranging from intense lipstick pink to a lovely muted papaya—a comely shade of orange that works perfectly with pretty much any outfit you throw at it. The jaunty Inès Sixties bag, in supple calf with a long chain handle, is a great day-into-evening bag, and the Exotic tote in burgundy or black faux croco is Lancaster’s answer to the classic Hermès Birkin bag. The range of styles is impressive, from tiny evening bags and clutches to oversized satchels and The new Insensée totes, including limited-edition models with boutique in Paris

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A wink at the illustrious past in the new Parisian boutique of Fauré Le Page Moynat, whose prestige bags vaunt their historic legacies, Fauré Le Page’s distinctive bags and maroquinerie (small leather goods) reflect the firm’s unique place in French history. Founded in 1717, the company lasted through seven generations over more than 200 years, and was once considered France’s firearms manufacturer par excellence. Commissioned by French kings starting with Louis XV, the company also supplied Napoleons I and III as well as the Italian and Russian aristocracy. The new Fauré Le Page boutique, just off the rue Saint Honoré (where both Goyard and Moynat are also found), winks rather than genuflects at its illustrious past: display tables rest on armored legs, handbags are suspended from armor gauntlets or shown with becom- ing chain-mail dresses. The leather goods Smack in the center of the store’s huge Galeries Lafayette is helping to disperse and signature linen-and-leather totes are Grande Épicerie food hall, a monumen- the doldrums of winter with hints of what’s displayed alongside real antique pistolets. tal stairway leads down to the gleaming to come this spring. The second-floor Espace While humor and whimsy may elevate Le 6,000-square-foot cellar that’s poised to Luxe presents top new previews, including Page from the rest of the bunch, the compa- rival Paris’s top wine shops. Director Hugues samples from Salvatore Ferragamo’s Louvre ny is dead serious about quality; everything Forget scoured France for some 2,000 of the Collection, Proenza Schouler, House of from adorable dog collars and leashes to a best wines and spirits from every region, at Holland and Roksanda Ilincic. Just in time for gorgeous metal-and-crocodile clutch bag is every price point, including 400 cham- Valentine’s Day, the ephemeral Le Panties Bar handmade with meticulous care. Hunting pagnes and 1,000 eaux-de-vie, whiskies offers special models from Chantal Thomass, chairs and flasks, a superb shopping cart and and liqueurs, with an astounding 200,000 Etam, Aubade, Lejaby and other French lin- pistol-shaped pochettes in three sizes make bottles in reserve. There’s also a large climate- gerie faves all designed with Swarovski crystal great gifts for sporty folks and/or lovers of controlled area for rare and prestigious trimmings (Feb 4–23). Through February, the French luxury and history. 21 rue Cambon, vintages, with experts on hand to guide cus- second floorBar à Clutch presents the best of 1st, 09.82.50.92.30. www.faurelepage.com tomers and conduct wine tastings open to the best in tiny jewel-like evening clutch bags. the public. The lovely new restaurant-wine And finally, there’s also a great new selection In brief... bar allows shoppers to taste the wines paired of cutting-edge designer bags, with fabulous To mark its 160th anniversary, the Bon with food or just take a pleasant and conve- models found only at Galeries Lafayette by Marché department store offers two spar- nient shopping break. It’s a most welcome French designers Tila March, Vanessa Bruno, kling nouveautés: First, a newly expanded newcomer to the Paris wine scene. Damir Doma, Zilla and Halaby. men’s shop, now covering the entire base- Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 7th, 40 blvd Haussmann, 9th, 01.42.82.34.56. ment floor and featuring a huge selection of 01.44.39.80.00, www.lebonmarche.com; Grande www.galerieslafayette.com n designer and luxury menswear. And second, Épicerie, 38 rue de Sèvres, 01.44.39.81.00. For more of the best French boutiques and a stupendous new wine cellar. www.lagrandeepicerie.com shopping: www.francetoday.com

The new wine cellar at La Grande Epicerie Top photoTop Courtesy Fauré Le Page; bottom Courtesy Le Bon Marché

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Atelier Oï’s hammock for Louis Vuitton’s Objets Wit & Whimsy Nomades collection by Jean Bond Rafferty

rench design has wood and orange, yellow and kicked off 2013 with blue lacquered MDF. wit and whimsy. In The sculptural steel credenza Straeten der Van Hervé Galerie / Courtesy Mathieu © Cécil tables end Wolff; © Stanislas sofa Design; Edition 22.22 Courtesy bench Vuitton; Louis Courtesy chair beach Hammock, one of those unex- called Rocky, by Beirut-born, pected Gallic twists, Paris-based Charles Kalpakian Fthe number 13 is considered comes in Jekyll’s steely gray or lucky in France, so to find a Hyde’s two tones of blue. The clever collection of furniture Pool team (Léa Podovani and and lighting produced by a Sébastien Kieffer) has updated new young company called La their Vulcain lamp with a laser- Chance—French for luck—is cut dotted metal shade (Jekyll right in tune with the times. copper or Hyde white) and a Dedicated to promoting the metal or Corian base with a key effervescent Nouvelle Vague on-off switch—white Corian or

of French design, the world- aluminum with black key, or The Illusion bench by Jean-Claude traveled founders Jean-Baptiste gray anodized aluminum with Cardiet of 22.22 Edition Design Souletie and Louise Breguet, yellow key. both architects and financiers, Israeli Dan Yeffet and Czech have rounded up an internation- Lucie Koldova, who trained with al slate of top designers to create Arik Levy in Paris, imagined a playful panoply of objects in Iconic, a statuesque full-length metal, marble, wood and glass. oval mirror on a pedestal with a Almost everything is pro- white Carrara marble base and duced in split personalities: the white mirror back—Jekyll—or a sober, natural, chic, subtle and solid oak base with lipstick-red classic Jekyll, or the optimistic, mirror back—Hyde. The cush- colorful, theatrical, arty and ions of Paris star designer Noé naive Hyde. Take the Swedish Duchaufour-Lawrance’s steel Note Design Studio’s Tembo and foam Borghese bench echo Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance’s stool, a modern totem of the shapes of the parasol pines Borghese sofa for La Chance stacked wood, metal and cork in the famous Roman garden, with toy-like appeal and more with a choice between a chic master of asymmetrical designs this spring (Jan 31–May 15). or less the shape of an African carbon-black structure with gray in marvelous mixes of materi- www.vanderstraeten.fr tom-tom—Tembo is Swahili for cushions or a white base with als: bronze and alabaster in the elephant foot. Get it in cool cushions in shades of green. Hot Virevolte chandelier, Plexiglas Lighthearted luxury Jekyll—natural cork, black or cool, the La Chance collection and bronze in the Lollypop When Louis Vuitton does lacquered MDF and is irresistible. www.lachance.fr mirror and blocks of lacquered whimsy, you can count on black matte wood— wood whose painterly or joyful Hyde— Defying gravity surfaces offer changing natural cork, His fans include Madonna, reflections in the Console light green Tom Ford, Mick Jagger and Diane von Furstenberg; his lim- Chaos. A captivating pair ited editions stand out in inte- of witty end tables called Louis Vuitton’s Inclination, whose gilded Objets Nomades riors by high-flying decorators, beach chair by among them Jacques Grange, bronze legs support burnt- Maarten Baas François Catroux orange lacquered-wood tops and Peter Marino. in a gravity-defying diagonal, Hervé Van der will debut in the US at New Straeten is a French York’s Galerie Ralph Pucci

10 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m some extravagant The Tembo stool by Note results. Harking Design Studio for La Chance back to their historical tradition of special commissions, LV called on a star-studded cast of name designers to cre- ate a collection of luxurious travel-ready Objets Nomades. Inspired by Joy Adamson’s Born Free and the lightweight

structure of 19th-century art- Madame O chair by ist’s easels, Christian Liaigre’s Marcello Ziliani for folding Travel Desk is made Roche-Bobois of maple and leather; Patricia Urquiola’s Stool and Swing Chair both fold up to look like handbags; Maarten Baas’s in Asnières. In a limited edition Beach Chair, with cotton straps of 12, the three-shelf, flamboy- and a hand-sculpted, resin- antly hued “cabinet”, a hanging coated clay frame, is not only pouch, is an echo of an imagi- stylishly transportable, it also nary fruit on a solitary baobab bears its author’s fingerprints. tree that the Brazilian brothers Most beautiful: Swiss spotted in the Namibian des- Atelier Oï’s hammock made of ert, crossed with the feverishly woven Nomade leather strips contagious rhythms of their and gold-plated rivets with a home country’s Maracatu dance detachable headrest is in music. www.louisvuitton.com the lineage of the legend- Signs of spring ary Vuitton trunk bed made If winter comes, can spring be for the 19th-century French far behind? French designers explorer of Italian origin, Pierre are ready for the first balmy Savorgnan de Brazza (founder breezes with kicky outdoor of the settlement that became furniture to brighten terraces Brazzaville). Most covetable: and gardens with pizazz. 22.22 Thierry Gaugain’s “O” Handbag Edition Design’s Jean-Claude Lamp, powered with innova- Cardiet created the hand- tive, low-energy OLEDs, whose The Iconic full-length mirror by Dan crafted, epoxy Illusion bench, Yeffet and Lucie Koldova for La Chance warm glow illuminates the mys- whose three-toned Skaï cov- terious recesses of a woman’s ers in mint green, eau de Nil purse; when turned off, it doubles and white produce a trompe- the deck: Marcello as a makeup mirror. Most spec- l’oeil 3-D effect. It also comes Ziliani’s Madame tacularly whimsical: Fernando in canvas, fabric or leather. O multicolored and Humberto Campana’s www.2222editiondesign.fr wrought iron Maracatu foldaway travel cabi- French manufacturer Roche chairs. It’s like net made of recycled leather Bobois also offers some high- sitting down off-cuts from the LV workshop chair, table Courtesy Roche-Bobois; stools, mirror © Stanislas Wolff spirited solutions for al fresco inside an exu- living. Cédric Ragot’s Precious berantly hued tables with diamond-faceted, hula hoop. And steel-wire-cage bases come in finally Fabrice a colorful selection of gueri- Berrux’s cut-out four- dons and coffee tables, while leaf clover metal Bonheur Song Wen Zhong’s stack- stools definitely confirm able polycarbonate Ava chair 2013 as a year of good luck. Inclination end tables by www.roche-bobois.com n Hervé Van der Straeten comes in transparent tints—sky, crystal, amber, graphite and Precious table by Cédric Ragot ruby. The most droll chair on for Roche-Bobois

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 11 Gourmet Travels in the

Camargueby Agnès Lascève

he Camargue—that wide strip of land between The gastronomy here resembles the terroir: it gets right down to sky and sea that stretches across arms of the basics. The region’s products are so elemental that their simplicity Rhône—is not just a paradise for birds and white becomes their richness; there’s no way to cheat here. Rice, beef, salt, horses. Its marshes are put to work producing wild fish and the tiny shellfish called tellines are the stars; among crystalline salt, its broad flatlands produce some processed foods, the saucisson d’Arles made by the Maison Genin of the world’s finest rice, and its grassy fields are leads the way, closely followed by the beef sausage of Diego Gimenez, home to black cattle whose lean, delicious meat is the tapenade of Jean Martin and the fougasse of Aigues-Mortes— recognized for its healthful properties. especially those made by Alain Olmeda and Laurent Poitavin. Life is harsh in the Camargue. The delta isn’t the most hospitable Tplace—the soil is poor and corroded by salt, and the mistral, that Camargue rice IGP famous wind from the north, gaining strength as it races down the Camargue rice was granted the status of IGP (Indication Géo- Photo © Courtesy of the Salins du Midi du Salins the of © Courtesy Photo Rhône, has nothing to stop it as it sweeps glacially over the flat land. graphique Protégée) a dozen years ago, the first time the official label was Sometimes it blows hard enough to take your breath away, and, they granted to a grain. It has a strictly limited geographic territory, and say, it can rage for three, six or nine days straight. The marshes are a a very precise list of regulations governs, among other things, man- perfect habitat for mosquitoes and in summer, when the wind lets datory leveling of the soil, irrigation and drainage. Irrigation water up, they take over, especially at sunrise and sundown. But the beauty must be pumped from the Rhône and only used once, and crop rota- of the landscapes and the singular “end of the world” atmosphere tion is obligatory every two or three years, mainly alternating with make you forget the inconveniences that—as the Camarguais say— wheat and potatoes. This mosaic pattern of agriculture around the also protect them from mass tourism. Vaccarès pond, combined with livestock and other crops, served for

12 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Chef Armand Arnal of La Chassagnette in Le Sambuc

●

The black taureaux de Camargue

Harvesting the salt at the Salin d’Aigues-Mortes

a long time as a natural corrective for soil laden with salt. It was orig- inally an idea of the Duc de Sully, minister of Henri IV. Initially the rice served only as a curative for the soil—it wasn’t edible, because varieties suited to the region had not yet been found. In the early 20th century, farmers were inspired by the exam- Tellines, the delicate shellfish ple of Italian rice growers, and finally, during the Marshall Plan of the Camargue period after WWII, rice cultivation really boomed—but only after a largely unknown and not very glorious incident. During the Nazi Camarguais rice Occupation, Indochinese workers were forced by the Vichy govern- ment to work in the rice fields. Their know-how helped to improve production, a fact that was never mentioned until 2009, when the mayor of Arles finally gave them long-overdue credit. Today the entire Camargue is classified as a Natura 2000 site, and it’s on the official Tentative List to be named a UNESCO World Heritage site. That means the territory is bound by strict, non-negotiable regu- lations—and the environmental constraints are enormous. Some 250 rice growers in the Camargue now produce 110,000 tons of rice a year, in fields spread over nearly 50,000 acres, about

Chef Courtesy La Chassagnette;bulls©Bernard Girardin; tellines©Agnès Lascève;rice©Ray Wilson 6 percent of which is devoted to organic agriculture. Research on

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 13 very lean, tender meat has fabulous flavor. Florence Pidou-Clauzel is a good example of a Camarguais manadière, sharing the passion for a way of life in harmony with nature. She, her father and her brother spend most of their time on horseback—the horses also are born on the manade—tending the herd, which averages 200 head, and overseeing 30 to 35 births a year, all naturally conceived. The liveliest males are destined for the bullfights, which they might enter several times, depending on their talent. About 70 percent of the remaining herd is headed for the table, at three, four or five years of age. The manade, Mas des Grandes Cabanes du Vaccarès, now has three gîtes (guest cottages), and a stay at this lovely place will let you experi- Fields of rice along the Rhône River ence Camarguais life first-hand. Old salts rice varieties is ongoing and 40 varieties are currently grown. White, The town of Aigues-Mortes, built by Louis IX in the 13th century brown, red, black, perfumed, long, very long or round, Camargue to establish a Mediterranean port and still enclosed within spec- rice is mostly grown on small parcels of land and accounts for 30 tacular medieval walls, is surrounded by nearly 250,000 acres of percent of France’s rice consumption. salt marshes, open to sun and wind. The salt fields here have been Every Saturday morning a colorful Camargue character named exploited since Roman times, and the salt farmers, called saulniers, Robert Bon can be found at the famed outdoor market in Arles, are the heirs to a savoir faire more than 2,000 years old. Salt from where he sets up his immense rice cooker and urges passing shop- the Salin d’Aigues-Mortes is naturally white, thanks to the soil on pers to sample his newest recipe du jour. He’s so convincing it’s which it is deposited. Salt crystals form in summer, when the mistral almost impossible not to buy his organic rice. If you have the time, stops blowing, and the delicately perfumed fleur de sel—the top of go ahead and tackle him in conversation—he’s unstoppable once he the crop—is harvested very carefully, by hand. The coarse, untreated starts expounding on the subject of Camarguais rice. salt that remains is ideal for recipes that call for cooking in a salt crust, and the salts to which organic herbs and pepper are added are Le taureau de Camargue culinary treasures that belong in every pantry. Those produced at Taureau de Camargue, or raço di bioù in Provençal, is an ancient Aigues-Mortes, under the label Le Saunier de Camargue, are found bovine race indigenous to the Camargue, still semi-wild, that now throughout France. has an AOP designation (Appellation d’Origine Protégée). Contrary to popular belief, Camargue bulls were not originally kept for meat Tellines but for Camarguais bullfights, in which the bull is not killed, just One of the most emblematic foods of the Camargue is the telline, taunted by teams of unarmed young bullfighters as they try to snatch a small, flat, pearly shellfish, pale yellow and violet inside, found in a rosette strung between its horns, then sprint away and leap out of estuaries providing a mix of salt and fresh water. According to tradi- the arena as the bull charges—a sport not unlike the games depicted tion, these delicious mollusks were first fished and eaten right here, on ancient Greek and Roman vases. The sport requires bulls almost so long ago that no one remembers when. They were traditionally as agile as the bullfighters and, above all, undomesticated. found buried two to three inches down in the sand and gathered Because the bulls spend their lives outdoors in spacious pastures by workers walking backwards, dragging baskets with built-in rakes. on ranches called manades, ranchers (manadiers) came up with Harvesting tellines is not only backbreaking, but also more and more the idea of commercializing the meat from the part of the herd not difficult because they are getting much harder to find. headed for the bullring. They created a set of strict standards and obtained an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) in 1996, the first for bovines, which became an AOP (the European equivalent of the AOC) in 2001.

Certified Camargue cattle can only come from a certain area within Lascève Agnès © Gimenez Rossini; Gérard © fields Rice three départements—Gard, Hérault and Bouches du Rhône. The ani- mals must be born, raised and slaughtered in the area, which is divided into the humid zone for summer pastures and what is called les terres hautes (high pastures) the rest of the year. The designation is relative, though, because the entire area lies more or less at sea level. In addition, for six months of the year no additional forage may be given to the animals, and what is supplied in the remaining months must come from the same geographic area. The livestock area is enormous—all year long the bulls remain outside, in huge fenced Butcher and charcutier pastures. The first objective is to produce bulls for sport and thus, Diego Gimenez above all, not to fatten them—they are semi-wild animals whose

14 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Camarguais Restaurants Born in Montpellier, Arnal formerly If you have time for only one restaurant The terrace of La Chassagnette worked with Alain Ducasse, notably in in the Camargue, it should be Armand his New York restaurant for several years. Arnal’s La Chassagnette. Seemingly out in Arriving at La Chassagnette in 2006, he won the middle of nowhere, the tall, quiet chef a Michelin star in 2009. Although he’s proud presides over a restaurant both simple and of it, he says a star was not his primary mo- sophisticated. tivation—what he likes is creating cuisine Simple, because he uses only fruits and tied to its locality, and in the Camargue he vegetables from his own organic garden, has found his niche. Route de Sambuc, (be- no matter the season. His immense potag- tween Arles and Le Sambuc), 04.90.97.26.96. er, which inspires rapt admiration in most www.chassagnette.fr visitors, produces treasures he transforms result of some fairly profound thought. Take L’Estrambord is a real country restau- into the most elegant of dishes. For Arnal, the marinated lisette, a small mackerel that rant, the kind you just don’t find much vegetables are not an accompaniment but a he serves with a broccoli purée, black sesa- anymore. The welcome is the warmest noble product, worthy of all his attention, me and preserved lemon; or the duck raised possible, and the cuisine, solidly and and ours. in the rice fields, served with ribbons of root enthusiastically based on regional products, It’s sophisticated, because he knows how vegetables in a sweet-and-sour sauce and a is simple and delicious. Don’t miss the house to take a fish, caught that morning or the sprinkling of caramelized pine nuts; or the specialty, Camarguais beef cheeks braised in night before, and use it to compose a dish dessert of fennel sorbet, vanilla granité and red wine. 7 rue de l’Abrivado, Le Sambuc, that seems quite unpretentious but is the fennel confit. 04.90.97.20.10. www.lestrambord.fr

Only a decade ago a tellinier could gather some 90 pounds a day; CAMARGUE NOTEBOOK today he can hardly find half that amount, and because there are :where to stay almost no more of them along the shoreline, he must swim out into Le Mas de la Fouque the sea and search off sandbanks. Depending on the season, some- Luxury hotel with contem- times the tellinier is waist-deep in the water, sometimes up to his porary rooms and old- neck, working with a snorkel. Knowing how difficult they are to har- fashioned gypsy caravans, vest makes it a privilege as well as a pleasure to eat these delicate spa and swimming pool. shellfish. They can be found in regional markets, washed and cleaned Route du Petit Rhône, A gypsy caravan at of sand, and on the menus of many restaurants. They’re often served Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. the Mas de la Fouque as a nibble with aperitifs, or as a starter, with an olive-oil mayonnaise 04.90.97.81.02. thinned with a little of the cooking water. Unforgettable. www.masdelafouque.com Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre A delightful, reasonably priced small Saucisson d’Arles hotel next to the 1st-century Roman arena. 5–7 rue Diderot, Arles. The famous saucisson d’Arles, a traditional dried sausage, is made by 04.90.96.10.30. www.hotelamphitheatre.fr many bouchers/charcutiers in the region, but one of them, quicker Mas des Grandes Cabanes du Vaccarès Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, off the mark than the others, registered the name, meaning that the 06.03.67.72.80. A working manade with 3 guest cottages. Maison Genin is the only one officially authorized to call his the www.masdesgrandescabanes.com “véritable saucisson d’Arles”. Half beef and half pork, Genin’s sau- Local specialties cisson is made with red wine, spices and peppercorns. Dark red in Maison Genin 11 rue des Porcelets, Arles, 04.90.96.01.12. color, it has a strong, unique flavor and many devotees. Another vari- www.maisongenin.com ation is the saucisson made by Diego Gimenez—everything he sells Gimenez et Fils In his truck at weekly markets: Tue: Tarascon, Thu: he makes himself, and his sausage, half Camargue beef, half pork, is Saint-Gilles, Sat: Arles, 04.66.74.57.21 more classic but no less delicious. Maison Jean Martin A family enterprise producing olive products of all kinds, tapenade, eggplant purée, ratatouille and many other Fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes marvels. 9 rue Charloun Rieu, Maussane-les-Alpilles, 04.90.54.30.04. In Provence, every village claims to have the only authentic fougasse www.jeanmartin.fr recipe, whether it’s the savory variety with bits of bacon or the sweet Olmeda 19 ave de la Liberté, Aigues-Mortes, 04.66.53.66.77. style flavored with orange-blossom water. But there’s general agree- www.patisserie-olmeda-30.com ment that two bakers in Aigues-Mortes are among the very best, and Poitavin 8 Grand’Rue Jean Jaurès, Aigues-Mortes, 04.66.53.73.15 each is defended by fans ready to fight for their favorite. Both make Maison Méditerranéenne des Vins An immense selection of re- sweet fougasse with a highly perfumed brioche dough, covered with gional wines and gourmet groceries at reasonable prices. Domaine sugar and melted butter. After a recent sampling of several from each de l’Espiguette, Le Grau-du-Roi, 04.66.53.07.52. of them in a comparative tasting, the verdict was unanimous: neither www.maisondesvins-lespiguette.com was better than the other, and both are completely addictive. One Taxi piece of advice, though, would be to choose the one that’s most bien Didier Taxi A charming driver with a mini-van for up to nine Terrace Courtesy La Chassagnette; caravan Courtesy Mas de la Fouque cuit, baked to a golden brown. n people. 06.26.17.88.88.

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16 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetodayTEL.: +33. c (0) o m 1 42 82 36 40 - galerieslafayette.com STREETS OF PARIS

The colorful facades of the Villa de Bellevue

estled on a gentle slope between the Buttes Chaumont park and the Square de la Butte du Chapeau Rouge, the Quartier Mouzaïa is a warren of villas—and in Surprising this case the word means narrow, cobblestoned and tree-lined alleyways or cul-de-sacs lined with candy- colored, individual maisonnettes. The picturesque pocket of northeastern Paris remains largely undiscovered by tourists, and by many Parisians as well. MouzaïaTheN small streets tumble downhill in almost symmetric formation from the by Richelle Harrison Plesse rue de Bellevue and stop just beyond the rue Miguel Hidalgo. The houses cling to each other, some with bold, cheerful facades, others more dis- Far removed from Saint Germain creet, partially hidden behind neat hedges, climbing ivy or wild, untamed des Prés and the Champs-Elysées, gardens. The early days of spring bring fragrant roses, wisteria, lilac and honeysuckle—scenes of a rural village, a rare reserve of calm. the Quartier Mouzaïa in the far 19th From the Middle Ages until the 1860s, the area served as an enormous arrondissement is a country-village open-air gypsum quarry known as the Carrières d’Amérique; the gyp- sum was made into plaster of Paris, used in the construction of many city enclave straight out of a storybook buildings. Supplies eventually dwindled, excavation ceased and authori- ties mulled over what to do with the land, described then as a “haunt for hobos and prowlers”. After attempts to establish a horse market failed, and in efforts to eradicate the wretched poverty of Paris’s outer villages, the city

Photo © Richelle Harrison Plesse began plans for a subdivision of modest homes to house local workers.

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 17 One of the charming streets off rue de Mouzaïa

The first houses appeared between 1889 unique because it’s the largest of its kind— authentic and reasonably priced Vietnamese and 1892: a few dozen red brick cottages, there are 400 houses here,” she says, “and we cuisine. almost identical, overseen by architect Paul- have more green space than other neighbor- Casimir Fouquiau. The unstable nature of hoods. Houses are rare in Paris, and even Cafés and hipster hangouts the ground dictated certain rules for their fewer have gardens.” Although there is a smattering of shops, construction: no higher than two stories, Rumors that the area was dubbed Bourdache laments the lack of the vibrant built according to one of four standard plans Amérique because the gypsum plaster was community atmosphere created by local that included small gardens in the front and used for the Statue of Liberty and the White businesses. “It’s a real shame,” she says. “The courtyards in back. Over the years, other House are simply “not true”, says Bourdache. butcher, the grocer, the tailor—they all dis- building materials were used, facades were “There is evidence that the area was known appeared after World War II.” Nostalgic for plastered and painted in sorbet shades and as Amérique as early as the 17th century,” she the movie theaters that once animated the wrought iron gates were given bright make- says. It’s now usually called Mouzaïa—the neighborhood, Bourdache says that after the overs. Today’s residents may have added name of one main street, commemorating arrival of television, they too disappeared. personal touches by way of whimsical trim- a colonial battleground in Algeria. The first Today the Quartier Mouzaïa is largely resi- mings, but the cobblestones and street lamps houses built were in the villas closest to the dential, home to a mélange of old timers and remain. rue de Bellevue, which separates them from bobos. As Bourdache remembers it, waves the grim social-housing towers of the Place of nouveaux riches residents began arriv- Mosaics and trompe-l’oeil des Fêtes (“a disaster!” says Bourdache). ing in the early 1990s, when property prices “We must protect this neighborhood—there The most colorful facades are found in the skyrocketed and local artisans moved out.

is nowhere else in Paris like it,” says Colette Villa de Bellevue and the Villa des Lilas, while “One, a lawyer, has an elevator, in his two- Dupont Amélie - Office Tourist © Paris Photo Bourdache, Mouzaïa resident for more than the original 19th-century brick exteriors and story house”, she chuckles. “Another one 40 years and president of the Syndicat des mosaics are clearly visible in the Villa Emile claims to have the same landscape gardener Intérêts Généraux des Villas du Quartier Loubet. On the leafy rue de Mouzaïa, the as Carla Bruni-Sarkozy!” d’Amérique, the community association. canary yellow and wintergreen house at But while artisans and shopkeepers have Despite its status as a picturesque site, No. 42 has a quirky trompe l’oeil window. moved on, the charming houses remain. granted by the Ministry of Culture in 1975, Farther west the Saint François d’Assise On rue de la Liberté, No. 6 stands out for its Mouzaïa rarely appears in guidebooks. “I’m church has a big Byzantine-style mosaic millstone exterior, mauve wrought iron trim often congratulated for living in such a beau- surrounded by painted murals. A few doors and Art Nouveau doorway. Steps away, the tiful neighborhood,” says Bourdache. “It’s down, Chez Kim is a local favorite for its houses of the Villa du Progrès and the Villa

18 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m At the heart of its 61 acres a craggy island towers over a lake, and a panoramic lookout

The lookout rock island in Buttes Chaumont park provides sweeping views all the way to the basilica of Sacré Coeur atop Montmartre. n

A maisonnette in Mouzaïa Notebook the Villa Sadi Carnot Chez Kim 3 rue de Mouzaïa, 01.44.84.00.14 Le Danube 3 pl Rhin et Danube, 01.42.38.66.10 Café Parisien 2 pl Rhin et Danube, 01.42.06.02.75 La Table de Botzaris 10 rue du Général Brunet, 01.40.40.03.30 Rosa Bonheur Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 2 allée de la Cascade, 01.42.00.00.45 (opening days vary seasonally)

Immersion en français pour adultes à partir de 23 ans. Renaissance are easily visible—the over- a look for its dark, brooding, almost medi- *Leçons et activités de 8h30 à 22h grown gardens of older villas are absent here. eval style. One of the grandest brick houses, *Groupes de 2 à 4 étudiants On the Place Rhin et Danube, the brasserie flanked by lush hedges, stands at the corner *Logement au château Correnson Le Danube is popular for its bargain plat du of Villa Marceau and the rue du Général jour and delicious homemade pizzas. The Brunet, not far from La Table de Botzaris, Café Parisien is tucked into one of the oldest which serves sophisticated (and pricey) buildings, but its original brick-and-beam French cuisine—a cozy retreat for a roman- exterior remains in good shape; on summer tic tête-à-tête well off the beaten path. days residents compete for a prime spot on At the end of the block sits the marvel- the terrace. ous Buttes Chaumont park, where Parisians Remnants of the gates on either end of from farther afield come to stroll, jog, Villa d’Hauterive, between the rues Général picnic or lounge in the beer garden at the Contactez Dominique +33 466 502 205 Brunet and Miguel Hidalgo, are reminders hipster hangout Rosa Bonheur. www.millefeuille-provence.com of the days, prior to 1959, when the villas Commissioned by Napoleon III and de- [email protected] were private—note the handsome cornflow- signed by civic engineer Jean-Charles er-blue house at 13 rue Miguel Hidalgo. The Alphand in the 1860s, the park’s steep street’s northern offshoots—Villas Rimbaud, slopes and uneven terrain are testament to Paul Verlaine, Jules Laforgue and Claude its past life as a gypsum quarry. Wild and Monet—claim the most modern houses, rugged, the park boasts cliffs, caves, streams

Park © Paris Tourist Office - David Lefranc; maisonnette, street sign © Richelle Harrison Plesse although No. 7 Villa Paul Verlaine is worth and waterfalls, many of them man-made. 

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Untitled-1 1 11/27/12 5:15:51 PM WINE & SPIRITS

Swiss Winesby Ellen Wallace

orches light the lovely glasses in our hands at his annual open- Wines, including fine wines, are one 15th-century cobble- house evening. of the country’s best-kept secrets—a stone courtyard, once a Pellegrin is one of 50 winemakers from fact those who make them would like two- or three-hour car- Ticino to Neuchâtel who constitute the to change. The Swiss drink some 40 riage ride from Geneva. Mémoire des Vins Suisses (MVS), created in liters (10.5 gallons) per inhabitant a year A hum of voices carries 2002—a remarkable storage bank of some (although consumption is slowly falling, as from an open cellar door of Switzerland’s best wines, selected for it is elsewhere in Europe). Fine examples where soft candlelight offers a glimpse of their aging potential. The by-invitation-only of the famous Swiss excellence that makes amphorasT and barrels. Upstairs, in a reno- group meets at least once a year at a mem- its watches and chocolate world famous, vated area of the old Grand’Cour château, ber’s winery for vertical tastings (several Swiss wines are also excellent value for the Jean-Pierre Pellegrin describes what makes vintages of the same wine) and professional money, compared to many French wines. his latest trademark “P” wine—a single- discussions, as part of a concerted effort to But the French next door are barely aware grape Pinot Noir—so special. Listening explore how to create more fine Swiss wine they exist, partly because so few are export- attentively: sommeliers from world-class with greater longevity. ed. Of course, some might argue that the Lavaux © HappyAlex - Fotolia.com © HappyAlex Lavaux restaurants, friends from the nearby vil- If you’re traveling anywhere near French have never made a point of know- lage of Peissy/Satigny and clients from the the Franco-Swiss border, consider this: ing anything about anyone else’s wines. city—now just a short drive away. France’s little neighbor, with its four “P” will soon be sold out. Given that official languages, its varied landscape and Magnifique! Pellegrin makes it only when all the condi- its scores of contrasting microclimates, is a And yet. At a small, elegant dinner party tions for this old-vines wine are right—on jewel box of wonderful wines and small but in a Saint-Emilion château near Bordeaux, average every other year—we treasure the superb wineries. held by a wine producer during the vin

20 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Jean-Pierre Pellegrin in his Domaine Grand’Cour vineyard

a well-traveled photographer with more village straddles the language divide), and than a hint of ego and national pride, its late-harvest sweet wines, which are find- refused point-blank to believe the Swiss ing their place among the best in the world. could make good wine, scoffing at what he Vacationers also know Valais for après-ski called a nation of bankers. One couple in fendant, a simple Chasselas wine, so named the wine trade was more open-minded and in the 19th-century for the grape’s tendency curious. An American woman recalled see- to melt in the mouth. ing Swiss vines once when flying to Geneva Vaud is famous for its UNESCO World en route to Lyon. Then our hostess argued Heritage site, the terraced vineyards of Lavaux that, as a winemaker of some renown in that rise dramatically from the shores of Lake Bordeaux, she could judge a good wine when Geneva and which provide some of the world’s she met one, and Switzerland’s wealth went most beautiful Chasselas white wines. But it far beyond banks to include its fine wines, as covers a much larger area, from the Vaud Alps her own ski vacations had proven. to the nearly flat border with Geneva, showing In fact, Switzerland has everything it the impact of terroir on Chasselas, from the takes for a wine industry to thrive: inves- very mineral (with minuscule pétillant bubbles tors, family businesses with a long history at the start) to elegantly floral or even a slightly The Lavaux vineyards of winemaking, forward-thinking research- bitter finish for more sophisticated tastes. In overlooking Lake Geneva ers, a knowledgeable and passionate client 2012 it was identified as the birthplace of the base and, most critically, very good terroirs. Chasselas grape. primeur spring sales, I found it isn’t that Weather, as everywhere, is undependable, Geneva has had a remarkable rebirth as a simple. I mentioned that I had just arrived but as a rule it’s kinder than in many corners wine region over the past 20 years, after major from an area in Switzerland that produces of the world. structural changes that saw numerous grape some beautiful Pinot Noir wines, as well as growers turn to making their own wines and the classic white Chasselas aperitif wines Six regions diversifying their grape varieties. Like I hoped they might already know. A small Switzerland has just under 37 million acres of Beaujolais, it had too many mediocre Gamays silence followed: where can a Frenchman vines—0.2 percent of the world’s wine-grape but, unlike its neighbor, it was free under the take a conversation like that? growing area. (By comparison, Burgundy alone law to quickly replant and develop new mar- To my surprise, the husband of our has more than 71 million acres.) Pinot Noir is kets. A well-educated younger generation is winemaker hostess, a highly successful the most widely grown red grape in Switzerland now continuing the initiative and today the Bordeaux businessman, leaped into a pas- and Chasselas the most popular white. canton has many award-winning wines. sionate and knowledgeable presentation of The six wine regions, from largest to small- The three lakes region is a curious area Swiss wines. His family had gone skiing in the est in terms of area planted are: Valais, Vaud, with two languages (French and German), Alps every year since he was a child, he said, Geneva, the three lakes region including three lakes (Biel, Murten, Neuchâtel) and and they had all fallen in love with the crisp Neuchâtel, German-speaking Switzerland four cantons, or states, but winemakers white wines of the Lake Geneva region. As he and Ticino. In brief: remain true to traditional Pinot Noir and got older his father insisted they explore Swiss Valais is known for its many indigenous Chasselas. Given that Burgundy is very red wines, too. “They have all those remark- grape varieties, including the native white close, it’s not surprising that there are many able grape varieties and terroirs! I think those Amigne in Vétroz and Petite Arvine in Fully. fine Pinot Noir wines. whites—magnifiques!—are still my favorites.” It’s even better known for the classy Pinot German-speaking Switzerland: just Noir wines of Salgesch/Salquenen (the over 100 years ago Zurich was the largest

Photo © Patricia Cottier-Pellegrin A lively discussion ensued. One guest,

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 21 Wind and weather Climates vary hugely from one region to another and even within regions, with the mountains creating a surprising number of shifts in rainfall, sunshine, temperature and even daylight hours. The southern Alps form a barrier for clouds that dump their rain over Ticino’s vineyards, so while Ticino has an annual rainfall of some 71 inches a year, Valais wines are protected by two Alpine chains that limit precipitation to only 20–24 inches. Warm, dry foehn winds whistle down the Rhône River in Valais and keep grapes dry and fungus-free late in the year—the secret to The vineyards near Jenins its world-class sweet wines. Geneva and Vaud, on the contrary, suf- in the canton of Graubünden fer the damp cold winds off Lake Geneva, as well as benefits includ- ing reflected sun. And thanks to the glaciers that scoured the land more than 10,000 A bottle of Jean- Pierre Pellegrin’s years ago, leaving in their wake richly different residue, the soil is as special Pinot Noir varied as the microclimates. wine called P Small is beautiful Officially, Switzerland has 160 different grape varieties that occupy a minimum of 100 square meters (1,076 square feet) of land; of those, 50 are planted widely. (France, by comparison, has 250 officially approved varieties, but only about 40 of them account for 95% of all vineyards—and total Swiss acreage is only 2% of France’s.) The incredible diversity of grape varieties is partly due to soil and microclimates, but also to the way Swiss wine is sold, mainly at home to local buyers. So each winery tries to differentiate its products, to fill a market niche in a country where foreign wines compete freely. Buying locally means getting to know the winemakers, and the Amphoras at the Domaine Grand’Cour Swiss have a reputation for loving to try new things offered by their trusted favorite wineries. Winemakers say this explains the success of newly developed varieties that help growers improve products Raymond Paccot at Domaine La Colombe while cutting some costs. Gamaret, for example, is a popular cross between Gamay and Reichensteiner, developed in 1970, that resists rot and ripens early. It produces dark, purply red wine with aromas of blackberries and spices, and is widely used in blends. Jenins © Celeste Clochard - Fotolia.com; amphoras, Paccot, Tamborini © Ellen Wallace; bottle © Alessandra Guerini © Alessandra bottle Wallace; © Ellen Tamborini Paccot, amphoras, - Fotolia.com; Clochard © Celeste Jenins Swiss winemakers also pioneered organic and biodynamic wines, with the vast majority using “integrated production”—close to orga- nic—for years. Amphoras, instead of barrels, are very popular with organic producers. Either terra cotta or concrete, they are porous, allowing the wine to breathe well, thanks to micro-oxygenation. What Switzerland doesn’t have is mass production and large producers. With a few exceptions, most of Switzerland’s 2000 profes- sional winemakers work three to ten hectares, or roughly seven to 24

Costamagna acres, producing 20–50,000 bottles a year—a mere drop in the barrel from Claudio compared to French or Italian standards. Tamborini in Ticino The unique 1895 The Swiss also don’t have a history of large-scale aging. Wineries wine-producing area in the country. Today production has shrunk are traditionally small family operations and land is expensive and significantly, thanks to urban and industrial sprawl, but Räuschling hard to buy, so barrel rooms for storing wine have historically been wines from around Zurich andcanton Aargau near the German a luxury. Medieval monks developed many of the vineyards; land- border regularly win top awards, as do Pinot Noirs from canton owning nobility, common in neighboring countries, made up only Graubünden. a small part of the social and political landscape over the centuries. Ticino: think Merlot, some of the finest, for this rainy area that Despite its current reputation for wealth, Switzerland was a confed- shares a border and a language with Italy. An old indigenous grape, erated nation of poor farmers until the late 19th century. Bondola, possibly blended with Merlot, is used for simple “nos- The idea of stocking a cellar for the next generation was not part trano” wines found in smaller restaurants. Switzerland’s Winemaker of Swiss tradition either, although this is changing. But there have of the Year 2012, Claudio Tamborini, is from Lamone, near Lugano. always been a few good cellars and some very fine wines that age

22 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Journey into the Wild World of Blue with Magellan Gin Handcrafted using fresh, exotic botanicals from around the globe, in the spirit of Magellan’s travels. Distilled four times, Magellan Gin is infused with the iris root and flower, giving it its true blue hue and crisp taste. Our fresh distillation method offers a refreshingly smooth gin of clean, balanced character, unmatched in the world.

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Magellan Gin © 2013 is 100% grain neutral spirit, 44% alc / vol (88 proof), Imported by Crillon Importers Ltd, Paramus, NJ The wine-making family of Weingut Thomas Marugg in Fläsch, in the canton SWISS WINE NOTEBOOK especially her famous sweet late-harvest of Graubünden Recommended wines and wineries to visit: wines (available at the local Fol’Terre boutique/wine bar). In Fully. Visits by appt. Near Geneva +41.27.746.3537. www.chappaz.ch Domaine Grand’Cour Jean-Pierre Cave de la Madeleine A family winery Pellegrin, top winemaker noted for where André Fontannaz, now joined by his precision, innovation and hard work, daughter, consistently produces top wines, also restored this beautiful old châ- especially the beautiful white Amignes, teau. Best choices: “P” and Grand’Cour from that indigenous grape. Also try the Blanc, an aroma-rich, amphora-matured Cornalin reds. In Vétroz. Visits by appt. blend. In Peissy/Satigny, visits by appt. +41.27.346.4554. www.fontannaz.ch +41.22.753.1500. Adrian & Diego Mathier–Nouveau Domaine Les Hutins Jean Hutin and his Salquenen Another excellent family win- well. The Clos, Domaines & Châteaux group daughter Emilienne run this small family ery. Best bets: Cuvée Madame Rosmarie of 15 historic wineries in canton Vaud have winery with a big reputation. Try Esprit Mathier, the Pinot Noir collection and shown at a number of vertical tastings that de Genève, Gamay Vieilles Vignes and La sweet Topas, which is matured deep inside well-aged Chasselas can be extraordinary Briva Vieilles Vignes. In Dardagny, visits the Rhône Glacier. Wine bar/tasting room. and works well with fine cuisine. The region’s Fri 5–6:30 pm, Sat 9 am–noon, or by appt. Bahnhofstrasse 50, Salgesch/Salquenen star wine is most often drunk young, when +41.22.754.1205. www.domaineleshutins.ch Mon–Fri 8 am–noon, 1:30–5:30 pm, Sat see it is notable for its refreshing mineral qual- website. +41.27.455.7575. www.mathier.com ity, but older bottles have a golden robe and Vaud rich aromas of toast, honey and beeswax, Domaine La Capitaine Reynald Parmelin ZURICH–GRAUBUNDEN and the taste can resemble fine dry sherry. is a delightful, creative three-time winner of Weingut Zum Sternen Andreas Meier, a During an old-vintage tasting in 2008, Switzerland’s Best Organic Wine award for remarkable and passionate professional, an 1895 Räuschling from the Reblaube his Johanniter. Also try Grand Cru Vaudois runs this large winery, as well as a hotel winery near Zurich was opened by friends Chasselas, Collection Agénor, Gamaret- and three restaurants. Try the Pinot Noir who were startled by its remarkable fresh- Merlot and Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes. Kloster Sion Réserve, Sauvigon Blanc ness. Quick-thinking winemaker Hermann In Begnins. Sat 9 am–noon or by appt. and Gewürztraminer. Rebschulweg 2, Schwarzenbach put the remains in a sterile +41.22.366.0846. www.lacapitaine.ch Würenlingen. Mon–Fri, 8:30 am–noon, jar and took it to the federal wine research Domaine La Colombe Maverick wine- 1:30–5 pm, +41.56.297.1002. institute. The Zurich experience is “unique” maker Raymond Paccot is considered one www.weingut–sternen.ch in the world of wine, says Juerg Gafner of of the country’s best. Try the Vigne En Weingut Thomas Marugg An award- the Agroscope research station, who led the Bayel, Pinot Gris and La Colombe Rouge. winning winemaker currently making project. The “1895” is the oldest dormant In the beautiful wine village Féchy. Visit Fri some of the finest Swiss Pinot Noirs, from live yeast ever identified in a wine, and after 4:30–7 pm, Sat 9:30 am–12:30 pm, or by a blanc de noir to oaked or sweet. In Fläsch, three years of testing it has the wine world appt. +41.21.808.6648. www.lacolombe.ch Graubünden. By appt. +41.81.302.1443. excited: the remarkable yeast’s offspring Domaine Louis Bovard Beautifully crafted www.marugg-weine.ch will be marketed to winemakers around the wines, often from surprising grapes, by a world, starting later this year. winemaker who recently planted a vine- TICINO “Great wines by definition include the yard parcel as a Chasselas conservatory. I Vini di Guido Brivio Entrepreneur and notion of longevity,” Swiss journalist Michel Try Dézaley-Médinette, Salix and Buxus. oenologist Brivio runs a winery to admire Logoz recently wrote in the Mémoire des In lakeside Cully, in the Lavaux area. on every level, with 600 barrels in his spec- Vins Suisses newsletter, “… for a great wine Visit 8:30 am–noon, 2–5 pm and by appt, tacular cellar chiseled out of the rock walls must be in a position to triumph over the +41.21.799.2125. www.domainebovard.com of Monte Generoso. Try the Sassi Grossi passage of time.” and Riflessi d’Epoca Merlots; the good- Look hard and you’ll find Swiss wines Three Lakes years-only Platinum; and the curious, that are one of a kind, special treasures. Cru de l’Hôpital The winery belongs to lovely white Donnay, a blend of You’ll also find wines to suit every meal, the citizens of Morat, but young oenologist Chardonnay and—pressed as a white— but start with the wine and ask the wine- Christian Vessaz has put it on the map with Pinot Noir. In Mendrisio. By appt.

maker, wine seller or sommelier for food wines like his Réserve des Bourgeois, Pinot +41.91.640.5555. www.brivio.ch Marugg Thomas Weingut Courtesy Photo suggestions, not the other way around, and Gris–Vully and Traminer-Vully. In Môtier- Tamborini 2012 Swiss Winemaker of the you’ll rarely be disappointed. And without Vully +41.26.673.1910. www.cru-hopital.ch Year Claudio Tamborini heads this large even trying, you’ll find Swiss wines that are family winery. Try the oaked Merlots simply a pleasure to drink. n VALAIS SanZeno Costamagna Riserva, and Cave La Liaudisaz A tiny winery run by popular classics Comano and Castello di Journalist and wine writer Ellen Wallace Marie-Thérèse Chappaz, who is becoming a Morcote. Via Serta 18, Lamone. By appt. publishes Swiss news site GenevaLunch.com legend with her limited-production wines. +41.91.935.7545. www.tamborini-vini.ch and a blog, Among the Vines. All the vins de garde are recommended,

24 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m FRENCH KITCHEN

Homemade walnut cake Baking Sweet Treats by Susan Herrmann Loomis

he French aren’t avid bakers found in the pâtisseries and boulangeries; version made almost entirely of ground wal- because they don’t have to they are simpler, but have their own sort of nuts. Extremely simple to make, it requires be. There are about 32,000 sophistication. the freshest possible walnuts that are finely boulangeries to serve the High on the list of home-baked goods ground with a touch of sugar, a tablespoon needs of the French, about are those made with nuts that are ground as of breadcrumbs and no flour at all. The one per 1,800 inhabitants. fine as flour. The most common are based resulting gâteau aux noix is delicate, tender As for pâtisseries, where on ground almonds and sometimes ground and melts in your mouth. frothy cakes and pastries line sparkling hazelnuts. Rich with butter, scented with Tshelves, there are more than 7,000 to serve either vanilla or almond flavoring and leav- Chocolate and choux the national sweet tooth, and that doesn’t ened with beaten egg whites, these cakes are Another baked treat that I get to sample in count large enterprises, just neighborhood often served just slightly warm. When they many homes is the melting chocolate cake, affairs. With that kind of floury wealth at the are baked in individual rectangular molds currently No. 1 on the French dessert Hit doorstep, why bake? they are called financiers, named for the gold Parade, at least according to a recent issue of Why bake, indeed, yet most of the French bars they are said to resemble; at other times a popular women’s magazine. It has dozens cooks I know have their share of favor- they’re baked as simple, round cakes. of variations, but contains little or no flour, ite baked desserts at their fingertips. None Among my very favorites of the nut- relying almost entirely on butter, chocolate

Photo © Susan Herrmann Loomis include the fluffy, multilayered delicacies based cakes is a moist, dense, richly flavored and perhaps some ground almonds for its

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 25 substance. I say it’s simple, and it is. But the de Commercy”. Since 1882, madeleines chocolate must be excellent, and the bak- have been produced in Commercy and WALNUT CAKE ing timed to perfection for it to be a truly sold throughout the world. GATEAU AUX NOIX wonderful dessert. Legends aside, those who truly love Choux pastry is another typical madeleines prefer to make them at home— 1-2/3 cups (280 g) walnuts home-baked treasure. This is the egg-and- they are exquisite still warm from the oven, 1 cup plus 2 tbsp (225 g) sugar butter-rich pastry which, when baked at a and absolutely best eaten the day they are 6 large eggs, separated high temperature, poufs up to make what baked. 2 tsp vanilla extract we call a cream puff. It has an illustrious his- Macarons, the small, round almond- 1 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs tory: It is said to have come from one of the based pastries that took France by storm Generous pinch of salt chefs in the court of Catherine de Medici, several years ago, are now creeping into though records of it are also found among the home kitchen, although they are 1. Line a 9-1/2 inch (24 cm) spring- the peasantry, who baked their choux in notoriously tricky to make. (When I asked form pan with parchment paper, but- the ashes then used them in soup. a pastry-chef friend if he had any tips to ter the parchment paper and the sides There are regional variations to choux successfully making them his response was of the pan. Preheat oven to 350° F pastry, too. The most famous among them “Don’t”.) Home cooks can now buy molds (180° C). is from Burgundy, the gougère. Flavored that hold the batter in a round shape as it with Gruyère cheese, these crisp little bakes, just in case the egg whites weren’t 2. Process the walnuts and 2 tbsp sugar choux are usually served with the tradi- beaten quite enough, or the amount of in a food processor until they are very tional Burgundian aperitif, kir (white wine sugar quite right. As for flavors and fillings, finely ground. Be careful not to over- with a splash of crème de cassis). To be anything goes, so you can make inky-black process as the nuts can become oily. truly perfect, a gougère must be crisp on ones and flavor them with licorice, or vivid the outside, just slightly custardy on the purple ones and flavor them with violets, 3. Reserve 2 tbsp of the remaining inside and fully flavored with the cheese. or color them caramel and flavor them sugar for the egg whites. Without cheese, choux are most often with foie gras. used in sweet confections. Topping the list Finally, there is that most ubiquitous 4. In a large bowl or the bowl of an are profiteroles, for which the choux is slit of baked French desserts, the fruit tart. electric mixer, whisk together the egg open, then filled with vanilla ice cream (or Apple is the favored fruit, and any home yolks and remaining sugar (except the sometimes pastry cream) and set in a pool cook worth her salt (remember, French 2 tbsp reserved for the egg whites) un- of (or doused with) dark chocolate sauce. home cooks are overwhelmingly female) til they are thick and pale yellow. Fold Antonin Carème, the 19th-century “chef can produce an apple tart made with her ground walnuts and breadcrumbs into of kings” made his name with creations own pastry at the drop of a hat. Depending egg yolk mixture. using pâte à choux, most notably prof- on the season, the tart might be flavored iteroles. Of all the glorious, festive home with red currant jelly, or a layer of chest- 5. In a large bowl or the bowl of an desserts, it is perhaps the one that no one nut cream. It might be a mix of pears and electric mixer, whisk egg whites with can ever resist. apples, with a slice or two of quince added. salt until they are very foamy and just Open faced, glazed with sugar, a tarte is beginning to create soft peaks. Whisk Golden shells always a delight. in the reserved 2 tbsp sugar and con- Madeleines are another legendary home- Baking à la française of this sort, done in tinue whisking until the mixture is baked sweet, neither a cake nor a cook- the home kitchen, is a perfect antidote for glossy and forms soft peaks. ie but both. Most know the madeleine the winter blues, should they come knock- because of its veneration by author ing at your door. While you will want to 6. Fold egg whites into walnut and egg Marcel Proust, but it had a life well experiment with many different home- yolk mixture until thoroughly com- before he ever tasted one. The origin of baked sweet treats, I highly recommend bined. Turn mixture into the prepared the madeleine is steeped in a sweet legend. the following walnut cake. The recipe is pan and bake until the cake is golden In 1755, Stanislas, the king of Lorraine, from a friend who swears by its restorative, and puffed, and your finger leaves a suddenly found himself with a table full full-flavored substance. I couldn’t agree slight indentation when you press the of guests, and an angry pastry chef who with her more. n top gently, about 35 min. took his leave without preparing dessert. One of the king’s servant girls, who was Susan Herrmann Loomis teaches cooking 7. Remove cake from oven and let cool from the town of Commercy, stepped up classes in Normandy and Paris. 30 minutes on a wire rack. Remove Plesse Harrison © Richelle Photo to produce golden cakes in the shape of www.onruetatin.com. Find her cookbooks cake from pan and let cool completely. a sea shell, saving face for the king and in the France Today Bookstore: Transfer to a platter and serve. delighting all diners. The king, an appre- www.francetoday.com/store ciative man, called the girl to him and 10 servings asked her name. “Madeleine,” she replied. For more food stories and recipes: The king christened the cakes “Madeleines www.francetoday.com

26 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m Film Picks Box office

The top 10 movie hits in France 1 The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey Peter Jackson 2 De l’Autre Côté du Périph (On the Other Side of the Freeway) David Charhon 3 Jack Reacher Christopher McQuarrie Ski Resort Movies 4 Life of Pi Ang Lee 5 Rise of the Guardians ToOver the years ski movies p have developed into their own genre, thanks Peter Ramsey to dazzling landscapes and high-altitude thrills. French ski resorts are 6 Wreck-It Ralph Rich Moore among the best in Europe, and French directors have found them perfect 7 Ernest et Célestine Benjamin settings for a wide range of cinematic stories, from zany comedy to dark Renner, Vincent Patar, Stéphane Aubier mystery and drama 8 The Possession Ole Bornedal by Julien Bisson 9 L’Homme Qui Rit (The Man Who Laughs) Most hilarious including5 a surprising and wonderful drama is more frightening than most Jean-Pierre Améris Les Bronzés Font du Ski Patrice Coluche, who snatched a César award a horror films. And it remains a rare 10 Mes Héros Eric Besnard Leconte, 1979 year later for his role in Tchao Pantin. treat by great director Claude Miller, A year after the initial success of Les who died last year. Bronzés, the troupe of actors and Most sentimental comedians from the Paris café-theater Les Marmottes (The Groundhogs), Elie Most cruel contrast Le Splendid (which counted among its Chouraqui, 1993 L’Enfant d’en Haut (Sister), Ursula ranks budding stars Thierry Lhermitte, Inspired by the films of Claude Lelouch, Meier, 2012 BEST Gérard Jugnot, Josiane Balasko and Les Marmottes brings together several Twelve-year-old Simon (Kacey Mottet Christian Clavier) was back on track generations of actors as members of a Klein) lives in a grim industrial Swiss SELLERS for this new—and far better—com- family reunited for a winter vacation. valley with his flighty older sister IN FRANCE edy, a laugh fest unlike any other The senior member of the tribe, Léo Louise (Léa Seydoux), who can’t hold made in France. Les Bronzés (literally, (Daniel Gélin), hosts his Parisian guests onto a job. Struggling with poverty, the sun-tanned ones) recounted the for Christmas in his superb chalet at the siblings survive thanks to Simon’s FICTION antics of vacationers who meet at a Club Chamonix. But tensions soon arise as prowess as a thief: Every day in win- Cinquante Nuances Plus Med on an African beach; this second old secrets are revealed, long-lasting ter, the young boy takes the cable car Sombres (Fifty Shades Darker) adventure follows them up to the slopes relationships begin to fray and new up from his drab valley to the sunny E.L. James (JC Lattès) of Val d’Isère for a ski trip that relent- loves emerge. Gérard Lanvin is per- white-powder world of a wealthy ski lessly goes wrong. It’s packed with cult fect as the gloomy husband, and resort and steals expensive equip- Cinquante Nuances de Grey lines and memorable scenes, including so are Jean-Hugues Anglade as a ment that he can later sell, and even (Fifty Shades of Grey) E.L. James an encounter with horny Italians in a hysterical son, Jacqueline Bisset as sandwiches to take home for dinner. (JC Lattès) remote cabin and Michel Blanc’s repeat- the family femme fatale, and Virginie But while his activity begins to attract La Vérité sur l’Affaire Harry ed failure to “conclude” as he desperately Ledoyen and Christopher Thompson— attention, Simon also grows incredibly Quebert Joël Dicker (De Fallois) pursues les femmes. It all builds up to a then newcomers—as teen sweethearts. jealous of the attention Louise pays to Dévoile-Moi (Bared to You) Sylvia rescue by mountain peasants who ply The only negatives are somewhat weak other men. Reminiscent of works by Day (J’Ai Lu) the hopelessly hapless band of bronzés direction and several unnecessary the Dardenne brothers, this second Heureux les Heureux Yasmina with a local eau-de-vie flavored with subplots. film by Franco-Swiss director Ursula Reza (Flammarion) toad. It’s a beloved classic in France, and Meier (Home) explores with subtlety its fans never tire of watching it again Most disturbing the powerful relationship between its and again. La Classe de Neige (Class Trip), Claude two main characters, remarkably well CDs: Jazz & Blues Miller, 1998 played by the two young actors. And an Autour de Minuit Various artists Most surprising With a screenplay adapted by author unexpected twist gives the film a new (Universal) La Femme de Mon Pote (My Best Emmanuel Carrère from his own and fascinating dimension. After win- Wind Ibrahim Maalouf (Mi’ster Friend’s Girl), Bertrand Blier, 1983 much-praised novel, this stunning ning a Silver Bear at last year’s Berlin Productions) Thierry Lhermitte is back on the slopes work by Claude Miller delves into the film festival, it is Switzerland’s Oscar Alter Ego Yaron Herman (ACT as Pascal, a sexy winter-clothing shop troubled mind of a boy poisoned by candidate for this year’s Best Foreign Music) owner in Courchevel. An ex-jock and Language Film award. gloomy thoughts and scary dreams. Glad Rag Doll Diana Krall (Verve) very successful with women, he falls for Overprotected by his father, pale young the pretty Viviane (Isabelle Huppert) and Nicolas (Clément van den Bergh) is Tied for Sixth Einaudi Essentiel Ludovico introduces her to his best pal, the soli- lonely and taciturn, seeming to con- Le Grand Elan (They Met on Skis), Einaudi (Music Development tary and not-so-handsome Micky (the nect only with his friend Hodkann Christian-Jaque, 1940 Company) comedian Coluche). Micky too is (Lokman Nalcakan) and his teacher, Un Homme, un Vrai (A Man, a charmed by the free-spirited beauty, Mademoiselle Grimm (Emmanuelle Real One), Arnaud and Jean-Marie DVDs causing him troubles with his conscience Bercot). When his class goes on a ski Larrieu, 2003 Hugo Martin Scorsese as a love triangle begins under the trip, his nightmares turn to morbid Snowboarder Olias Barco, 2003 The Artist Michel Hazanavicius wooden roof of their lodge. Generally visions, and the frontier between reality La Première Etoile (Meet the presented as a comedy, the movie none- and phantasm soon fades. But the worst Elisabethz), Lucien Jean-Baptiste, Drive Nicolas Winding Refn theless hits a bittersweet note, enhanced is yet to come, as the class trip is clouded 2009 J. Edgar Clint Eastwood by its moving final scene. Directed by with sordid events and disturbing rev- The Help Tate Taylor Bertrand Blier, the film is also well- elations. Awarded the Jury Prize at the Trailers of most of these films are on served by catchy dialogue and fine acting, Cannes Film Festival, this psychological www.youtube.com

Find French films in our France Today bookstore: www.francetoday.com/store Other possible sources: www.amazon.ca, www.amazon. fr, www.facetsdvd.com, www.fnac.com When you order DVDs from France, you’ll need a multiformat DVD player that can read Zone 2 DVDs.

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 27 RENCONTRE Nolwenn Leroy Ten years ago, the young Bretonne singer- songwriter won the French version of American Idol. Praised for her rich voice and seductive gaze, she has just released her first album in the US

by Julien Bisson

he bears an uncanny resemblance to French actress Isabelle Adjani, but excels in a differ- ent art. For ten years now, Nolwenn Leroy has been charm- ing listeners with her rich, dark voice, her

delicate delivery and sensitive songs, selling more than two million records inS France. Dark-haired, blue-eyed and beautiful, she’s now getting ready for a new challenge as she releases her first album in the United States, after a debut gig at the Drom in New York’s East Village. “It’s a wonderful oppor- tunity for me,” she said, just hours before hopping on the plane for her New York debut. “I know how tough it is to make it there, but I’ve been want- ing to cross the ocean with my music for several years.” The 30-year-oldchanteuse was born Nolwenn Le Magueresse in Saint- Renan, at the extreme western tip of Brittany. She moved often during early childhood, following the transfers of Photo © Ian McKell © Ian Photo her father, a professional soccer player. After her parents divorced, she left her native region to grow up in the Auvergne, near Vichy. When she was

28 l f r a n c e t o d a y l f e b r u a r y 2013 l w w w . francetoday . c o m eleven, her music teacher noticed her talent A year later she issued her first album, English, Gaelic and Breton. “A few journal- and encouraged her to learn the violin (she Nolwenn Leroy (using her mother’s maid- ists in France thought it was a niche album, also plays piano and harp). And the gifted en name), which sold more than 600,000 meant only for a few listeners. I was glad to teenager had still more strings to her bow: copies. “It was a peculiar debut for a young prove them wrong, and to show that pop Two years later, she won a drawing contest singer,” she says now. “I was only 20 at the music could blend with traditional Celtic called Les Ecoles du Désert (Schools of the time. Since then I’ve gotten stronger, and tunes to reach a very large audience!” Desert), and took part in a humanitarian probably less naive. I had fulfilled a dream, Indeed, the album, for which she had writ- Nolwenn Leroy mission in Mali, an experience that ten several original songs, quickly deeply influenced her. But the most topped the charts, and has now With her new album, the important journey of her young life French singer is pursuing sold almost a million copies. It even was still to come. another of her dreams launched a large debate in France In July 1998, she was awarded about regional culture and revival a scholarship by the Rotary Club of folk music and folklore. “It’s an of Vichy to attend Hamilton High album full of nostalgia for my child- School, in Hamilton, Ohio, on hood,” she explains. “It was meant to the outskirts of Cincinnati. There express what Brittany meant to me. Nolwenn—or Winnie, as she was But I couldn’t expect that my most called by her American friends— personal project would be approved became fluent in English and took by so many people, in France, and lessons at the Performing Arts now—I hope—in the US.” School in Cincinnati. “I was spend- (Approval of an unusual kind ing every afternoon and every has already come from the US, weekend rehearsing for the high in fact. Between 2005 and 2007, school orchestra,” she recalls. “The an American research project experience changed many things in in Texas studied the impact of my life. I was immersed in American music on the aged. Several Dutch culture and language, in a small and and French singers were included traditional town. That year helped in the study, along with Mozart me forge my character, and it gave and other classical music. One me a new confidence in myself and surprising result: Nolwenn Leroy’s in my music. For the first time, I music had the most impact in pre- felt my dream was possible, if I had venting falls in senior-care homes, the strength to work hard enough. prompting the researchers to call it If there’s one thing I learned from “the Nolwenn effect”. For the scien- American culture, it’s that every- tists, her music “appears to have a thing is possible.” different effect on brain-based When she returned to France, modulation of gait and stance than she enrolled in the music conser- other music tested to date”.) vatory in Clermont-Ferrand, honing the but there were too many people telling me The first American album, simply vocal skills she had begun to master in what to do. I needed to take back some entitled Nolwenn, is an adaptation of the Ohio. In the meantime, she began studying control of my career. A few artists and Bretonne album with a few new songs added. American law, aiming for a job in an NGO musicians helped me along the way, and There are covers of some English-language or diplomacy in case she failed at a singing showed me how to build up something that classics, including Moonlight Shadow and career. Then fate intervened. In 2002, like a looked more like me,” she says, citing espe- Scarborough Fair, alongside the traditional thousand or so of her peers, she auditioned cially French composer-singer-songwriter Breton Tri Martolod, about three sailors to take part in the second season of the Laurent Voulzy. who fall in love with the same girl, and the television reality show Star Academy 2, a Irish Gaelic Mna Na H-Eireann (Women of French version of American Idol. Impressed Pop music, Celtic melodies Ireland). “I wanted to present Gaelic songs by Armande Altaï, one of the show’s judges, Despite critical appraisal, comparing her in English as well as in Breton, but there are Leroy had taken lessons at Altaï’s singing whimsical lyrics and the mystical atmo- none in French on the album. I needed the school before joining the young coterie of sphere of her songs to Tori Amos and Kate American audience, which is familiar with wannabe stars. After four months of tough Bush, her next two albums had more diffi- Irish and Scottish culture, to discover that competition—which included remark- culty winning over the French public. That’s there was also a Celtic territory in France, able duos sung with Lionel Richie, Vanessa probably why she surprised so many people with its own identity.” They’ll also discover Carlton, Patrick Bruel, and Lara Fabian—she with the release of Bretonne in 2010—the a rare and multifaceted talent whose beau- was declared the winner on the live show, album is a brilliant but unexpected homage tiful, haunting voice should prove equally

Photo © Muriel Leroy with an audience of millions of viewers. to her Celtic roots, with songs in French, enchanting on both sides of the ocean. n

w w w . francetoday . c o m l f e b r u a r y 2013 l f r a n c e t o d a y l 29 le marchÉ

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