February 2013 FRANCE $495 TODAYThe Magazine of French Travel and Culture Gourmet Travels in the Camargue Surprising VOLUME 28, NO. 2 www.francetoday.com Swiss Wines A Country Village in Paris CONTENTS february 2013 4 CALENDAR 20 WINE & SPIRITS What’s On & What’s Up Swiss Wines: Coming Into Their Own 6 FAVORITE TABLES 28 Breton singer-songwriter Nolwenn Leroy A Restaurant Roundup by 25 FRENCH KITCHEN France Today Contributors Baking Sweet Treats 8 BOUTIQUE BEAT 27 FILM PICKS Seriously Sexy and Spirited Top Five French Ski Resort Movies 10 DESIGN NOW Wit & Whimsy 28 RENCONTRE Singer/Songwriter 12 Gourmet Travels Nolwenn Leroy in the Camargue: Getting Down to Basics 30 LE MARCHÉ & CLASSIFIEDS 17 STREETS OF PARIS Surprising Mouzaïa: A Country Village in Paris 10 Swing Chair by Patricia Urquiola for Louis Vuitton 12 The Camargue is a paradise for birds 20 The vineyards of Valais, in Switzerland and a pleasure for gourmet travelers Camargue Courtesy Les Salins du Midi; Leroy © Ian McKell; Swing Chair Courtesy Louis Vuitton; Valais © Ellen Wallace WWW . FRANCETODAY . COM l FEBRUARY 2013 l FRANCE TODAY l 3 FRANCE Calendar TODAY The Magazine of French Travel and Culture What’s On & What’s Up Publisher Louis F. Kyle FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO FRANCE Editor-in-Chief Judy Fayard Associate Editor/Web Manager PARIS Vivian Thomas Chagall, Entre Guerre The Lovers in Green, 1916–17, by Marc Chagall, Editorial Assistant Claire Senard at the Musée du Luxembourg, Paris et Paix Art Direction Joey Rigg More than 100 works by the Contributors Julien Bisson, Lanie Goodman, Russian artist (born Vitebsk 1887, Jeffrey T. Iverson, Jennifer Ladonne, died Saint-Paul de Vence 1985), Agnès Lascève, Susan Herrmann Loomis, Richelle Harrison Plesse, focused on the momentous period Jean Bond Rafferty, Ellen Wallace between 1917 and 1945, as revolu- Consulting Photographers tion, two world wars, exile, peace Bob Peterson, Guy Marineau, James O'Mara and serenity in the south of France Copy Editing & Translation influenced but didn’t change his Martha Fay, Elizabeth Bell, singular, allegorical style. Wendy Taylor Musée du Luxembourg, 19 rue de Marketing and Digital Coordinator Vaugirard, 6th, Métro: Saint Sulpice, C.C. Glenn, [email protected] 01.40.13.62.00, Subscription Fulfillment Manager www.museeduluxembourg.fr Ahjin Kim, 646.792.2157 €11 Feb 21–July 21 [email protected] Classifieds Fashioning Fashion C.C. Glenn, [email protected] Subtitled “Two Centuries of Subscribe to France Today European Fashion, 1700–1915”, Call: 800.901.6560 or an exhibit assembled from log on to www.francetoday.com $45/one year in the U.S. important costume collections $80/one year outside the U.S. donated to the Los Angeles To subscribe, renew your subscription, submit change of address or report missing issues, County Museum of Art by contact: antique dealers Martin Kamer France Today Subscription Services: 1 West Street, Ste 100, New York, NY 10004, and Wolfgang Ruf—a sump- Tel 800.901.6560, subscriptions@francetoday. tuous survey of sartorial finery. com. Major credit cards accepted. Allow 6 weeks for first issue to arrive and for change of address. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue To order back issues and for all other inquiries, de Rivoli, 1st, Métro: Palais Royal, contact: 01.44.55.57.50. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr FrancePress, LLC, 1 West Street, Ste 100, Quilt Art: L’Art du two-week Mardi Gras Carnival. New York, NY 10004, Tel 646.792.2203, €9.50 Through Apr 14 Fax 646.792.2144, [email protected] Patchwork This year’s theme: King of the Five Continents. France Today (ISSN #0895-3651) is published Eileen Gray A collection of 25 quilts, dat- monthly except bi-monthly in July-August by A major retrospective for the ing from the 18th to the 20th Nice, www.nicecarnaval.com FrancePress, LLC, 1 West Street, Ste 100, New York, NY 10004. Periodical postage paid in New York, Irish architect, designer and century, representing the long Feb 15–Mar 6 and at additional mailing offices. decorator (1878–1976) who tradition of patchwork through- La Fête du Citron Chagall © ADAGP, Paris 2013 / CHAGALL ® © RMN / Gérard Blot POSTMASTER: send address changes to France moved to Paris in 1906 and out the United States, including Today, 1 West Street, Ste 100, New York, NY 10004 pioneered the modernist move- Hawaii. More festivities on the Côte Copyright 2013 by FrancePress LLC d’Azur with Menton’s annual All rights reserved. France Today is a registered ment of the mid-20th century. Mona Bismarck American Center, trademark of FrancePress LLC. The show traces her work from 34 ave de New York, 16th, Métro: Lemon Festival—day and night Alma Marceau. 01.47.23.38.88. parades, floats decorated with This publication may not be reproduced in whole early lacquered furniture to the www.monabismarck.org or part without prior authorization of the pub- villa E-1027 with Romanian more than 100 tons of citrus lisher. France Today occasionally makes its mailing €7 Feb 13–May 19 fruit and giant citrus “sculp- list available to carefully screened companies architect Jean Badovici on in whose products and services may be of interest Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. tures” in parks and gardens. This to our readers. If you do not wish to receive PROVINCE year’s theme: Around the World these mailings, send instructions along with a Centre Pompidou, Place Georges Carnaval de Nice copy of your mailing label to the address above. Pompidou, 4th, Métro: Rambuteau, in 80 Days: Menton, the Secret 01.44.78.12.33. Parades, flower-decorated floats Stopover. Cover: A tasting at winemaker Jean-Pierre www.centrepompidou.fr and revelers fill the streets as Menton, www.fete-du-citron.com Pellegrin’s Domaine Grand’Cour in Peissy/Satigny, €11–€13 Feb 20–May 20 Switzerland. Photo © Ellen Wallace the city celebrates its traditional Feb 16–Mar 6 4 l FRANCE TODAY l FEBRUARY 2013 l WWW . FRANCETODAY . COM Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc, Early Morning, c.1918, by Ferdinand Hodler, at Fondation Beyeler in Basel Fête Gloanec, 1888, by Paul Gauguin, at the Atelier Grognard in Rueil-Malmaison Le Trésor des Marseillais in public documenting the The city of Massalia—today’s coterie of artists that congregated AND DON’T FORGET Marseille—was founded by around Gauguin, Paul Sérusier these events and their closing dates: Phocaean Greek traders around and Emile Bernard in the small 600 BC. Sometime between Breton town of Pont-Aven PARIS 530–500 BC, the colony offered between 1886 and 1920. A fine Canaletto et Venise Musée Maillol, Feb 10 a small temple, called a treasury, occasion to visit the Château de Les Rothschilds en France au XIXe to the sacred site of Delphi on Malmaison, the favorite home Siècle Bibliothèque Nationale/ the Greek mainland. For the of Josephine Bonaparte, right Richelieu, Feb 10 L’Art en Guerre, France 1938–1947 first time, fragments from the next door. Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de temple’s dramatic battle-scene Atelier Grognard, 6 ave du Château Paris, Feb 17 freize are on display in the de Malmaison, Rueil-Malmaison. Les Couleurs du Ciel Musée Carnavalet, Feb 24 donors’ home town. www.mairie-rueilmalmaison.fr €5 Through Apr 8 Et l’Homme Créa…le Robot Centre de la Vieille Charité–Chapelle, Musée des Arts et Métiers, Mar 3 2 rue de la Charité, 04.91.14.59.18. Art du Jeu, Jeu dans l’Art Musée de Costumer le Pouvoir: Cluny, Mar 4 www.culture.marseille.fr Opéra et Cinéma Van Gogh/Hiroshige Pinacothèque €8 Through Apr 15 de Paris, Mar 17 At the National Costume Des Fleurs en Hiver: Delacroix– museum in Moulins, on the Costume for the opera Boris Godunov, Othoniel–Creten Musée Delacroix, Les Peintres de Pont-Aven 1993, at the Costume Center in Moulins Allier River in Auvergne, a Mar 18 Autour de Paul Gauguin Dalí Centre Pompidou, Mar 25 sumptuous show of opera, the- Nearly 150 paintings, drawings from Greek gods and French Les Mille et Une Nuits Institut du and graphic works rarely shown ater and movie costumes for Monde Arabe, Apr 28 grand and powerful characters, kings to Astérix and Salome. Cheveux Chéris Musée du Quai Centre National du Costume de Branly, July 14 Léonard de Vinci, Projets, Scène, Quartier Villars, Route de Dessins, Machines Cité des A medieval château made of citrus fruit, Montilly, Moulins. 04.70.20.76.20. Sciences et de l’Industrie, Aug 18 at the Fête du Citron in Menton www.cncs.fr €6 Through May 20 PROVINCE SWITZERLAND Renaissance Louvre-Lens, Lens, Mar 11 Ferdinand Hodler Versailles et l’Antique Château de An overview of late works by the Versailles, Mar 17 Swiss Symbolist artist, focused Le Temps des Collections Musée des Beaux-Arts, Rouen, May 26 on portraits of his dying com- Marseille-Provence 2013 European panion Valentine Godé-Darel, Cultural Capital: Marseille, Aix- and landscape paintings pared en-Provence, Arles, Aubagne, Gardanne, Istres, Martigues, down to radiant, intensely col- Salon-de-Provence, all year ored panoramas of mountains, lakes and sky. SWITZERLAND Fenêtres: De la Renaissance à Nos Fondation Beyeler, Baselstrasse Jours Fondation de l’Hermitage, 101, Riehen/Basel. +41. 61.645.97.00. Lausanne, May 20 www.fondationbeyeler.ch For more Calendar events: 25 Swiss francs Through May 26 www.francetoday.com Gauguin © Orléans, Musée des Beaux-Arts © photo François Lauginie; Hodler © 2012 Kunsthaus Zürich; costume © CNCS/Photo Pascal François; château © OfficeTourisme de Menton-www.tourisme-menton.fr WWW . FRANCETODAY . COM l FEBRUARY 2013 l FRANCE TODAY l 5 Favorite Tables rue de Belleville in the 19th arrondissement. A roundup of top picks by France Today contributors The shop window makes it very clear what you’re in for.