©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 359 Gösta Serlachiuksen Hanko 106 Taidemuseo 151 Kuusamo 260 Hannun Luontokuvakeskus 256 Kvarken archipelago 237 Hämeenlinnan Taidemuseo 154 305-6 Hiekan Taidemuseo 140 Liminganlahti Bird Sanctuary 250 Imatran Taidemuseo 199 Linnansaari National Park 172 Joensuu Taidemuseo 201-2 208-9 Jomala 127 Perämeri National Park 278 Jyväskylän Taidemuseo 179 Puurijärvi-Isosuo National Park 223 Kammigalleria 306 Pyhä-Luosto National Park 292 Kiasma 49, 73 Ruka 261 Kuntsi 232 Siikaneva 149 The Finnish language places Kuopion Taidemuseo 185 Tankar Island 239 the letters å, ä and ö at the Lahden Taidemuseo 158 boat travel, see also cruises end of the alphabet. Oulun Taidemuseo 245 to/from 345 Paltto 306 within Finland 346 A Porin Taidemuseo 224 Bomarsund 128-9 Aalto, Alvar 327-8 Rauman Taidemuseo 221 Bonk Dynamo Centre 218 buildings 18, 62, 63, 69, 89, 91, 158, Retretti 170 books 312, 330 178-9, 182, 190, 229, 271 Rovaniemen Taidemuseo 271 border crossings 344 accommodation 338-9, see also Sara Hildén Art Museum 139 Borgboda 130 individual locations Sinebrychoffin Taidemuseo 54 Brahe, Per 316 camping 28 South Karelia Art Museum 193 Brändö 132 families 36 Tampereen Taidemuseo 140 budgeting 14 summer cottages 9, 324, 9 Tikanojan Taidekoti 232 business hours 340 activities 26-33, see also individual Turun Taidemuseo 87 bus travel activities VB Valokuvakeskus 185 to/from Finland 344 air travel 344, 346 Visavuori 151-2 within Finland 346 alcohol 341 Wäino Aaltonen Museum 87 amusement parks 35, 56 Ålands Konstmuseum 121 C Helsinki 53 aurora borealis 295, 285 camping 28, 338 Kalajoki 241 arts 330-2, see also individual arts canoeing 31-2, 38, see also kayaking Kalevalakylä 253 Askainen 97 Jongunjoki 211-12 Kesämaa 170 ATMs 342 Kemijärvi 291 Naantali 93 Kitkajoki 266 Santapark 277 173 Tampere 139 B ballet 164 Kuopio 186 Vaasa 231 Baltic Herring Market 22, 58 Lahti 158 animals 16, see also individual species bathrooms 343 Levi (Sirkka) 282 aquariums beaches 35, 37 Linnansaari National Park 172 Helsinki 53 Degersand 132 Muonio 287 Kotka 112 Hailuoto 250 Oravareitti 174 Tampere 139 Hanko 107 Oulankajoki 266 Archipelago National Park 100-1 Helsinki 54 Pankasaari 212 architecture 17, 18, see also Aalto, Alvar Hiekkasärkät 241 Ruka 260 Arctic Circle 276 Kokkola 239 Ruunaa Recreation Area 209-10 art galleries 16, 38 Myllysaari 194 Savonlinna 163 Aineen Taidemuseo 279 Yyteri 226-7 Seal Lakes 171 Alariesto Galleria 294 bear-watching 9, 16, 9, 259 car travel 344, 346-7 Ars Nova 86-7 Karelia 207, 208, 209, 210, road rules 15, 347 Ateneum 49-50 Kuusamo 244, 254, 256, 260 castles 34-5 Cygnaeuksen galleria 54 298 Hämeenlinna 152-3 Espoo Museum of Modern Art 76-7 beer 341 Kajaanin Linna 251 Gallen-Kallelan Museo 77 Bengtskär 110 Kastelholms Slott 128 berries 29 Lumilinna 278 birdwatching 32-3 Olavinlinna 163 000 Map pages Eastern Gulf of Finland National Oulunlinna 245 000 Photo pages Park 114 Raseborg Castle 104-5 360 castles continued Lakeland region 161 culture 312-13, 324-6 Turku Castle 84 Lapland 268, 270 currency 14 cathedrals, see churches & Oulu 243 customs regulations 340 cathedrals Tampere 136 cycling 29-30, 346, see also cell phones 15, 342-3 Turku 82 mountain biking children, travel with 34-6, 56, see also West Coast 216 Brändö 132 amusement parks Åland archipelago 117 Föglö 133 Christmas 22, 273, 276-7, 295, 335 clothing 69-70, 328, 329 Helsinki 55, 56 INDEX churches & cathedrals cloudberries 29 Kemijärvi 291 Convent Church (Naantali) 96 coffee 341 Kuopio 185-6 Kerimäki 170 Cold War 318-19 Oulu 245 C-E Keuruu 150 consulates 340 Punkaharju 169 Kolmen Ristin Kirkko 199 costs 14 Rovaniemi 271 Lappee Church 194 cottages 9, 171, 9 Savonlinna 163 Lappeenranta 193 credit cards 342 Åland archipelago 13, 37, Lintula Convent 177 cross-country skiing 31, see also 129, 13 Lutheran Church (Nurmes) 214 skiing Orthodox Church of Hossa 257 St Nicholas 202 D Kilpisjärvi 289 dance 230, 325 Ortodoksinen Kirkko 140 Kittilä 282 Degerby 133 Oulun Tuomiokirkko 245 Laajavuori 179 design 6, 327-9, 7 Paateri Wilderness Church 212 Lahti 158 Helsinki 69 Pedersöre Church 237 Lohja 101 disabilities, travellers with 343 Petäjävesi 183 77 Djurvik 127 Pielpajärven Kirkko 302 Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park 289 dog-sledding 8, 30-1, see also Pyhän Elian Kirkko 205 Patvinsuo National Park 209 huskies, reindeer-sledding Pyhän Ristin Kirkko 221 Puijo 184 301 Ristinkirkko 158 Pyhä-Luosto National Park 292 213 Rovaniemen Kirkko 271 Ounasvaara 272 207 Sankt Andreas Kyrka 135 Rovaniemi 274 Muonio 287 Sankt Göran’s Kyrka 122 Ruka 260 Saariselkä 295-6 Sankt Johannes Kyrka 129 Saariselkä 296 Rovaniemi 274 Sankt Lars Kyrka 134 Syöte National Park 252 Ruka 260 St Olaf’s Church 219 Ylläs 281 Dragsfjärd 100 Tampereen Tuomiokirkko 138 cruises drinks 11, 341 Temppeliaukion Kirkko 53-4 Hamina 115 driving, see car travel Tornion Kirkko 279 Hanko 107-8 Duke Karl 315 Tuomiokirkko (central Helsinki) Helsinki 56 45-6 Inari 302 Tuomiokirkko (Porvoo) 78 E Joensuu 202 Turku Cathedral 86 Eastern Gulf of Finland Jyväskylä 179 Uspenskin Katedraali 49, 72 National Park 114 Kemi 277-8 Vaasa Church 231 Eckerö 132-5 Keuruu 150 Valamo monastery 176 economy 313 Kotka 112 Vanha Kirkko (central Helsinki) 53 Ekenäs 102 Kuopio 186 Vanha Kirkko (Sodankylä) 294 Ekenäs Archipelago Lahti 158 National Park 104 Vanha Kirkko (Tampere) 141 Lappeenranta 194 electricity 339, 340 Vanha Kirkko (Uusikaupunki) 218 Lemmenjoki National Park 306 elk 16 classical music 96, 330 Lohja 103 embassies 340 climate 42, 333-5 Porvoo 79 emergencies 15 Helsinki 42 Punkaharju 169 environmental issues 313 Kainuu 243 Savonlinna 163 Enontekiö (Hetta) 287-8 Karelia 190 Tampere 141-2 Espoo 76-7 Koillismaa 243 Turku 87-8 Estonia 12, 25, 59, 13 Uusikaupunki 218 travel to/from Finland 345 Vaasa 233 etiquette 324-6 000 Map pages Vesihiisi 272 events, see festivals & 000 Photo pages Vyborg (Russia) 197 events INDEX F-H 361 264 ice hockey ice 285 , see 319, 320 319, 299 sights 44-55 sights 56 tours 42 seasons travel 71-4 to/from travel within 74-6 travel 57 tours walking 237 Holmöarna 257 Hossa Juuma 267 38 Karelia 262-6, trek Karhunkierros Kevo Strict Nature Reserve 307 Reserve Strict Nature Kevo Kilpisjärvi 289-90 213 National Park Koli 173 National Park Kolovesi 255 Kuhmo 254, Lapland 39 306 National Park Lemmenjoki 300 Luirojärvi 135 Lumparland Muonio 287 77 National Park Nuuksio 289 National Park Pallas-Yllästunturi 150 Taival Pirkan 184 Puijo 169 Punkaharju 292 National Park Pyhä-Luosto 263 Riisitunturi National Park Ruka 261 210-11 Area Recreation Ruunaa 309 Sevettijärvi 300, National Park Urho Kekkonen Ylläs 281 319-20 century 21st 318-19 War Cold 316-17 independence Lapland 270 316 Russia 163 Savonlinna 315-16 Rule Swedish 138 Tampere 257, 253-4, 218, 176, War Winter WWI 109 206 174. 109, WWII 106-7, Åland 120 Inari 303 103 Ingå Helvetinjärvi National Park 149 National Park Helvetinjärvi 300 27-9, hiking 6, history 314-21 history 347 hitching hockey, 342 holidays Hollola 160 237 Holmöarna riding horse

, 50-2 , 46-8 , 43 73

, 72 106-7

art galleries , parks & gardens parks 11

, see see 76 , accommodation 42, 58-62 42, accommodation 55-6 activities with 56 travel children, 42 climate drinking 66-7 67 entertainment 58 56, & events festivals 42 food 67 travellers & lesbian gay 43 highlights 44 history 71 58, 54, resources internet 44 itineraries 42-3 planning 37, shopping 69-76 Ruka 260 210 Ruunaa 141 Tampere 212 Änäkäinen 21 festivals 341 Finnish 17, 9 markets 57 H G Hailuoto 250 Hailuoto 320 Tarja Halonen, Hamina 115-16 115 Hamina Tattoo Hammarland 131 323 305, 288, 276, handicrafts 106-10, Hanko Hattula 152 206 Hattuvaara Gut) 110 Hauensuoli (Pike’s Haukipudas 251 263 Hautajärvi 341-2 health 176 Heinävesi 42-81, 37, Helsinki 6, galleries, galleries, gardens, gardens, 67 travellers gay 131 Geta 131 Getabergen 179 69, glassware 282 280, 160, golf 338 guesthouses Fiskars 105-6 Fiskars Fladalandet 104 340-1 food 158 147, 69, football Kaj 329 Franck, 238-9 Fäboda 133 Föglö 94

, 8 94 see also see ice-fishing see also see 18, 21, 247 21, 18, Championships 183 Championships Championships 21, 164 21, Championships film festivals, music festivals music film festivals, Air Guitar World Championships Championships World Air Guitar 288 (Hetta) Enontekiö 21 food 115 Hamina Tattoo 108 Hanko 58 Helsinki 56, 205 199 Imatra Inari 303-4 20, Juhannus (Midsummer) Föglö 133 Föglö 257 Hossa 199 Imatra Kuhmo 254 256 Kuusamo 114-15 Langinkoski 175 Mikkeli Muonio 287 Seinäjoki 230 Seinäjoki 111 Sibelius Festival skiing 247 173 Suursoudut Sulkavan 143 Tampere 88 Turku 233 Vaasa World Wife-Carrying 19 sports winter 294 Midnight Sun Film Festival 19 Skábmagovat 143 Film Festival Tampere Jyväskylä 179-80 Jyväskylä 291 Kemijärvi Kuhmo 255 186-7 Kuopio 183, Lahti 158 194 Lappeenranta 207 Lieksa Mariehamn 123 175 Mikkeli World Throwing Mobile Phone 96 Naantali 247 Oulu 222 Rauma 273 Rovaniemi 303 288, 19, Sámi 166, Festival Opera Savonlinna F farmstays 339 farmstays 19-22, & events festivals film 312, 339 film 312, film festivals 14-15 Finland basics 127-8 Finström fishing 32, 362 horse riding continued K Kristinestad 227-8 Levi 282 Kaamanen 307-8 Kuhmo 253-6, 254 Koli National Park 213 Kaapelitehdas 54 Kukouri 114 Muonio 287 Kainuu 39, 243, 244 Kumlinge 132 Lieksa 207 Kajaani 251-2 Kuopio 183-9, 184-5, 186-7 Hossa 257 Kakslauttanen 297-8 Kustavi 100 hostels 338 Kalajoki 241-2 Kuusamo 256-61, 263 Houtskär 99-100 Kalanti 219 Kuusamon Suurpetokeskus 256 INDEX humppa 331 Kalevala 330, 331 Kvarken 237 huskies 272, 287, 292, see also Kallenaution Kievari 148-9 Kvarnbo 130 dog-sledding Karelia 38, 190-215, 191 Kymijoki 114-15 H-L Hytermä 168 accommodation 190 Käylä 266 Häme 136-7, 152-60, 137 climate 190 Kökar 132-3 accommodation 136 food 190 food 136 highlights 191 highlights 137 L planning 38, 190-1 Lahti 156-60, 157 planning 38, 136-7 travel seasons 190 Lakeland, the 38, 161-89, 162, 169, Hämeenlinna 152-6, 153 Karelian people 204, 253 2, 11 Karhunkierros trek 262-6, 264 accommodation 161 I Karigasniemi 308 climate 161 ice climbing 260 Karl XII 316 food 161 ice-fishing 32, 247, 274, 335, see also Kaskinen 228-9 highlights 161 fishing Kastelholms Slott 128 planning 38, 161-2 ice hockey 58, 69, 147, 158 Katajanokka 51 travel seasons 161 ice hotels 12, 19, 278, 281-2, 297, Kattby 131 Lake Pielinen region 206-15 335, 12 Kaunissaari 114 Langinkoski 114-15 ice skating 55, 186 kauppahalli 9, 9 language 14, 270, 323, 350-4 Iittala 152, 328 kauppatori 9, 9, 72 Lapland 39, 268-309, 269, 283 Ilomantsi 204-6 kayaking 31, 38, see also canoeing accommodation 268, 270 Imatra 197-200, 198-9 Eckerö 134 activities 270 Inari 302-5, 284 Ekenäs 103 climate 268, 270 Inarinpolku 309 Helsinki 56 food 268 Ingå 102 Kuusamo 266 highlights 269 Iniö 99-100 Linnansaari National Park 172 history 270 insurance 342 Lumparland 135 planning 39, 268-9, 270 internet access 342 Mariehamn 123 travel seasons 269 internet resources 15 Nagu 99 travel within 271 accommodation 338, 339 Nurmijärvi 211-12 Lappeenranta 192-6, 192-3 books 330 Keisarintalli 253 Leineperi 227 design 328 Kekkonen, Urho 53-4, 251, 318, 319 Lemböte 135 history 315 Kemi 277-9 Lemi 197 transport 345 Kemijärvi 291-2 Lemland 135 itineraries 23-5, 23, 24, 25 Kerimäki 168-9 Lemmenjoki National Park 305-7 Ivalo 300-1 kesämökkejä 324 Lenin, Vladimir 317 Keuruu 150 lesbian travellers 67 J Kevo Strict Nature Reserve 307 Levi (Sirkka) 282-7 Jakobstad 236-8, 236 Kiasma 49, 73 Lieksa 207-8 Joensuu 200-4, 201 Kiilopää 297 Liminganlahti Bird Sanctuary 250-1 Jomala 127 Kilpisjärvi 289-91 Linnansaari National Park 172-3 Juselius Mausoleum 224 Kimito 100-1 Linnoitus 193 Juuma 266, 267 Kitkajoki 266 Lintula 177 Jyväskylä 177-82, 178 Kittilä 282 literature 312, 330 Klobbskat 237 Lohja 101 Koillismaa 39, 243, 244 Loviisa 111-12 Kokkola 239-41 Lumikuru 300 000 Map pages Koli National Park 213-14 Lumparland 135 000 Photo pages Kolovesi National Park 173 Långnäs 135 Kotka 112-14, 113 Lönnrot, Elias 330, 331 INDEX M 363 94 , 8 235, 247, 331 247, 235, 331 233, 230, 222, 202, 187, 239 21, Tietomaa 245 Tietomaa 250 Turkansaari 253 Museo Tuupalan 154 Tykistömuseo 53-4 Museo Urho Kekkosen 138 Vakoilumuseo 153-4 Vankilamuseo 139 Vapriikki 185 VB Valokuvakeskus 139 Werstas 194 Home Museum Wolkoff 206 WWII Museum 121 Ålands Museum 222 blues 330 classical 239 21, folk 225, 158, 143, 88, 77, 22, jazz 20, 235 189, 181, 146, 91, 68, venues live 331 313, metal 175, 143, 123, 88, 68, 58, 20, rock 332 21, Sámi 77 Jazz 20, April Laituri 88 the by Down Elojazz 247 222 Festivo 115 21, Tattoo Hamina 202 Festival Rock Ilosaari 199 Big Band Festival Imatra 158 Jazztori 175 Rock Jurassic Music Festival Folk Kaustinen 233 Music Festival Korsholm Kuhmon Kamarimusiikki 255 187 Cock Kuopio Rock 207 Week Brass Lieksa 175 Music Festival Mikkeli 96 Music Festival Naantali 225 20-1, Jazz Festival Pori 230 Provinssirock 123 Festival Organ 247 Soi Oulunsalo 247 Qstock 166, 166, mushroom picking 29 mushroom 330-1 music 313, 19-22 18, 8, music festivals Rauma Blues Festival 222 Festival Blues Rauma 222 Rock Rauma 123 Rockoff 88 20, Ruisrock 20, Festival Opera Savonlinna Sibelius Festival 22, 158 22, Sibelius Festival 143 Tammerfest 143 Biennale 19, Tampere 143 Jazz Happening 22, Tampere Jazz 88 Turku Museum 85-6 Museum 232 Terranova 229-30 Ostrobothnia 185 Kirkkomuseo Kainuun Museo 251 Museo Kainuun 50 Kansallismuseo 179 Museo Keski-Suomen 251 Kierikki 140 Kivimuseo 253 Kuhmon Talvisotamuseo 298 Kultamuseo 218 Museo Kulttuurihistoriallinen 185 Kuopion Korttelimuseo 185 Kuopion Museo 157 Museo Lahden Historiallinen 227 Köpmansgården Lebellska 139 Lenin-Museo 51 Museo Luonnontieteellinen Handicrafts Luostarinmäki Lusto 170 54 Mannerheim-museo 112 Vellamo Maritime Centre 175-6 Musiikin Museo Mekaanisen 245 Merimiehen Kotimuseo 237 Motormuseum 140 Muumilaakso 238-9 Museum Arctic Nanoq 154 Talo Palanderin 204 Parppeinvaara 207 Museo Pielisen 271 Pilke 239-40 Pitkänsillankatu and Museo Pohjanmaan 245 Museo Pohjanmaan Pohjois 121 Pommern 79 Museo Porvoon 79 ja Lelumuseo Nukke- Porvoon South Museum Provincial 174 Päämajamuseo 157-8 ja tv-museo Radio- 221 Maritime Museum Rauma 221 Museum Rauma 79 Koti Runebergin 224 Museum Satakunta 163 Maakuntamuseo Savonlinnan 53 ulkomuseo Seurasaaren 154 Syntymäkoti Sibeliuksen 87 Sibelius Museum 322 Siida 302, 227 Sjöfartsmuseum 156-7 Ski Museum 193 Museum Karelian South 233 Village Handicraft Stundars 179 Museo Suomen Käsityön 45 Suomenlinna-museo Suomen Ortodoksinen 53 Museo Suomen Rakennustaiteen 54 Suomen urheilumuseo 81 Lottamuseo Syvärannan cycling 13

, 94 see also see 122-3 Svärd Museum 229 Museum Svärd 129 Friluftsmuseum Fäboda 238 Fäboda 297 Kiilopää 282 (Sirkka) Levi 184 Puijo 274 Rovaniemi Ruka 261 296 Saariselkä Ylläs 281 86-7 Vetus Aboa Ainola 81 179 Museo Aalto Alvar 139 Amurin Työläismuseokortteli 271 Arktikum 218 Bonk Dynamo Centre 200-1 Carelicum 227 Museum Carlsro 193 Museum Cavalry 237 Museum Chicory & Lotta Civil Guard 51 Designmuseo 45 Ehrensvärd-museo 103 Museum Ekenäs 87 Hem Museum Ett Marinum 86 Forum 107 Museum Front Björn 129 Vita Fängelsemuseet 151 Museo Serlachius GA 81 Halosenniemi 51 Helsingin Kaupunginmuseo 51 Helsinki City Museum 154 Museo Historiallinen 237 Museum Jakobstads 174 Jalkaväkimuseo 278 Jalokivigalleria Jan Karlsgårdens 196-7 and Museum Village Jewel 253 Juminkeko Kaapin Jouni 306 M Muonio 287 37 museums Mikkeli 174-5 Mikkeli 342-3 15, mobile phones 104 Modermagan 342 15, money 342 moneychangers Moomin 93 346-7 344, travel motorcycle biking, mountain measures 339 measures 160 Messilä 124, Midsummer poles Malla Nature Park 290 Park Malla Nature 318 Mannerheim 54 Gustav Baron Mannerheim, 121-7, Mariehamn 364 music festivals continued O R Turku Music Festival 88 Olavinlinna 163 radio 339 Vaasa Choirfestival 233 Olympic Games 54, 319 rafting 31-2 Vaasa Rock Festival 233 opening hours 340 archipelago islands 115 Vauhtiajot 230 opera 166 Inari 303 mustamakkara 144 Otterböte 133 Juuma 260, 267 Muumimaailma 93 Oulanka Canyon 263, 266 Kitkajoki 266 Muuratsalon Koetalo 182 262-6, Kuhmo 254 INDEX Mänttä 151 265, 6, 258, 259 Lake Pielinen 206-7 mökki 324 Oulankajoki 266 Ruka 260 Oulu 39, 243, 244-50, Ruunaa Recreation Area 209 M-S 244, 246 N Siida 303 Naantali 93-7 Tornio 279-80 Nagu 99 P rally cars 180, 280, 301 Napapiiri 276-7 Paalasmaa Island 214 Ranua 277 national parks 26-7, 28, see also Paateri 212-13 Rapolan Linnavuori 151 parks & gardens painting 331-2 Rauma 13, 220-3, 220-1, 13 Archipelago National Park 100-1 Pallas-Yllästunturi reindeer 16, 257, 272, 292, 303, 305 Eastern Gulf of Finland National Park 289 reindeer-sledding 287, 295-6, see also National Park 114 Paltaniemi 253 dog-sledding Ekenäs Archipelago National Pargas 98-9 religion 326 Park 104 parks & gardens, see also Replot 237 Helvetinjärvi National Park 149 national parks Reposaari 226 Koli National Park 213-14 Helsinki 54 Riisitunturi National Park 263 Kolovesi National Park 173 Hupisaaret 245 Ristiina 175 Lemmenjoki National Park 305-7 Hämeenlinna 154 Ristikallio 263 Linnansaari National Park 172-3 Jakobstad 236 road-distance chart 347 Nuuksio National Park 77 Kotka 112 rock paintings 175 Oulanka National Park 262-6, 265, Patvinsuo National Park 208-9 Route 66 148-50 6, 258, 259 Perämeri National Park 278 Rovaniemi 271-6, 272-3 Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park 289 Pesäpallo 54 rowing 31-2, 173 Patvinsuo National Park 208-9 Petkeljärvi National Ruisrock 20, 88 Park 206 Perämeri National Park 278 Ruka 261-2 Petäjävesi 183 Petkeljärvi National Park 206 Runeberg, Johan Ludvig 79, 80 Pirkan Taival 150 Puurijärvi-Isosuo National Park 223 Ruovesi 149 Pirunpesä 160 Pyhä-Luosto National Park 292-3 ruska 334 planning 14-15, see also Riisitunturi National Park 263 Russia 316 individual regions Syöte National Park 252 travel to/from 344-5 budgeting 14 Urho Kekkonen National Park Ruunaa Recreation Area 209-11 298-300, 299, 285 calendar of events 19-22 Rönnskären 237 Nellim 301 children, travel with 34-6 Neristan 239 Finland’s regions 37-9 newspapers 339 hiking 26 S Nordic Walking 30 internet resources 15 Saamenpolku 309 Norrby 135 itineraries 23-5, 23, 24, 25 Saariselkä 295-7 Northern Lights 295, 334, 285 national parks 27 safe travel 270-1, 341-2 Norway 344 travel seasons 14, 15, 19-22, Saltvik 130-1 Nousiainen 97-8 333-5 Sámi people 10, 288, 294, 300, 301, 302, 304, 308, 321, 322-3, 10 Nuorgam 308 politics 312-13 culture 322-3 Nurm, Paavo 86 population 312 festivals & events 19, 288, 303 Nurmes 214-15 Pori 223-6, 224-5, 95 handicrafts 276, 288, 305, 323 Nurmijärvi 211-12 Porvoo 77-81, 78-9 history 270, 314, 321 Nuuksio National Park 77 Puijo 183-4 language 323 Närpes 229 Punkaharju 169-71 Puurijärvi-Isosuo museums 271, 302 National Park 223 music 21, 332 Sammallahdenmäki 223 000 Map pages Pyhä-Luosto National Park 292-3 Santa Claus Post Office 276 000 Photo pages Pyynikki Ridge 141 Santa Claus Village 276, 284 INDEX S-T 365 348 84-5 amusementparks see 279 hiking 83 see food 136, 144-5 136, food 137 highlights history 138 136-7 planning 38, shopping 147 138-41 sights 136 seasons travel 148 to/from travel within 148 travel 82-116, 82-116, Helsinki 56 Kuopio 186 246-7 Oulu 292 National Park Pyhä-Luosto 141-2 Tampere Ylläs 281 Finland 344-5, to/from accommodation 82 accommodation 82 climate 82 food 83 highlights 82-3 planning 37, 82 seasons travel accommodation 88-9 accommodation 87-8 activities drinking 90-1 91-8 entertainment 88 & events festivals 89-90 food 84 history 82-3 planning 37, 84-7 sights 92 to/from travel within 92 travel within Finland 347-9 tango 230 tango Island 239 Tankar 298 Tankavaara 347 taxis 342-3 telephone 339 television theme parks, Tiirismaa 160 time 343 tipping 342 343 toilets 279-81, Tornio tourist information 343 information tourist tours travel train Tulliniemi 107 Tulliniemi 84-92, 82, 37, Turku Turku & the South Coast 37, 37, Coast & the South Turku travellers cheques 342 cheques travellers 14-15 seasons travel Finland 344-5 to/from travel 345-9 within Finland 15, travel trekking, 8 , 137 9 83 13 12 335, 335, 140-2 Helsinki 55 240 Kokkola Mariehamn 123 88 Turku 272 Vesihiisi Hämeenlinna 155 199 Imatra Kalajoki 241 Kasnäs 101 Kuopio 187 257 Kuusamo 195 Lappeenranta 96 Naantali 215 Nurmes 247 Oulu 171 Punkaharju 296 Saariselkä 165 Savonlinna 231 Vaasa 227 beach Yyteri accommodation 136, 143-4 136, accommodation 141 activities 136 climate drinking 145-6 146-7 entertainment T Tampere 38, 136-7, 138-48, 138-48, 136-7, 38, Tampere Taivalköngäs 263 Taivalköngäs 71, 59, 25, 12, Tallinn Sund 128-30 214 Suomen Kivikeskus Suomenlinna 44-5 257 Suomussalmi 227 Cave) Susiluola (Wolf 111 Fortress Sea Svartholma 135 Svinö 345 344, Sweden swimming 252 National Park Syöte 182 Kunnantalo Säynätsalon 151-2 Sääksmäki 237 Vallgrund Södra snow hotels 12, 19, 278, 281-2, 297 297 281-2, 278, 19, 12, hotels snow 292, 287, 279, 30-1, 8, snowmobiling 295 260, snowshoeing 158 147, soccer 69, 293-5 Sodankylä 101-16, 82-3, coast south 329 souvenirs spas 105 Stenhuset 132 Storby 75 74, 71, St Petersburg 173 Sulkava 324, 9, summer cottages 94 , 8 , 169 , 164 see also also see 10 10 dog-sledding, dog-sledding, see also also see see 94 , National Park 289 National Park 324-5 individual locations individual skiing cross-country reindeer-sledding 8 Helsinki 69-76 Inari 305 323 305, 288, 276, handicrafts Sámi 147 Tampere 288 (Hetta) Enontekiö 213 National Park Koli 179 Laajavuori Lahti 156-7 282 Levitunturi 272 Ounasvaara Pallas-Yllästunturi 292 National Park Pyhä-Luosto Ruka 261 296 Saariselkä 252 National Park Syöte Tiirismaa 160 Ylläs 281 158 Lahti 156-7, 272 Ounasvaara 183 Puijo Hossa 257 Hossa 282 Levitunturi Tampere 141 Tampere 88 Turku 272 Vesihiisi Kiilopää 297 Kiilopää 240 Kokkola 55 Sauna Kotiharjun Kuopio 183, Savonlinna Opera Festival 20, 166, 166, 20, Festival Opera Savonlinna 303 290, flights scenic 331-2 sculpture the 171-3 Lakes, Seal 172 16, seals 229-31 Seinäjoki 309 Sevettijärvi shopping 329, Santapark 277 Santapark 18, 10, saunas Sibelius, Jean Jean 155 Sibelius, 322 302, Siida Museum 149 Siikaneva 107 Silversand 130 Simskäla sisu 122-3 Självstyrelsegården 121-2 Sjökvarteret 236 Skata skiing 31, ski-jumping sledding, Snappertuna 104-5 31 snowboarding Savonlinna 163-8, 163-8, Savonlinna 366 Turku archipelago 98-100 W Y Tuusulan Rantatie 81 walking, see hiking Ylämaa 196-7 walking tours 56, 57, 57 Ylläs 281-2 U water sports 11, 31-2, see also Yyteri beach 226-7 Ukko Island 302 individual water sports Hanko 107 Urho Kekkonen National Park Z Helsinki 56 298-300, 299, 285 zoos Utsjoki 308 Kuopio 185-6

INDEX Helsinki 53 Lakeland, the 165, 2, 11 Uusikaupunki 218-20 Kuusamon Suurpetokeskus 256 Linnansaari National Park 172 Ranua 272, 277 weather 42, 333-5 T-Ö V Tampere 139 weights 339 Vaasa 231-6, 232-3 Viltsafari 134 West Coast 38, 216-42, 217 vacations 342 accommodation 216 Valamo 176-7 climate 216 Å Vanha Rauma 220-1 food 216 Åland archipelago 13, 37, 117-35, Vanha Vaasa 233 118-19, 13, 94 highlights 217 Vantaa 77 accommodation 117, 120 planning 38, 216-17 Vårdö 130 climate 117 travel seasons 216 Vargata 130 food 117 white-water rafting, see rafting Varissaari 114 highlights 118-19 wilderness huts 339 Varkaus 175-6 planning 37, 117-19 wildlife 16, see also individual species Vasa, King Gustav 315 travel seasons 117 windsurfing 107 Vaskiluoto 231 Ålandspannkaka 124 wine 205, 341 vegetarian & vegan travellers 341 winter sports 30-1, see also Vikings 131 individual sports Ä Virrat 149-50 Winter War 176, 218, 253-4, 257, 319, 320 Älgö 104 visas 15, 343 wolverines 16 Visavuori 151-2 WWI 109, 154 Vuonislahti 212-13 Ö WWII 106-7, 109, 174, 206 Vyborg 197 Överö 133

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 367

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for these icons: Beaches Festivals & Events Entertainment r z 3 Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping No payment Information/ F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry a strong commitment to p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram or supporting conservation d Train projects. Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village 355

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OUR READERS Heikki Paltto, and Satu Natunen. Lastly, much Many thanks to the travellers who used love and thanks for constant support to Elena the last edition and wrote to us with help- Vázquez Rodríguez – a por los veinte mil. ful hints, useful advice and interesting Fran Parnell anecdotes: Luke Anderson, Robert Basford, Betty A huge thank you to Andy Symington for being Buldan, Alexandra Cadick, Jane Duckett, such a star coordinating author. I experienced Laurence Dunn, Francis, Jim Hawkins, Benzi so much kindness in Finland – if only I could Kahana, Katell Le Guen, Richard Lemon, thank everyone. Tourist-offi ce staff were gener- Renato Losio, Marcin Makowski, Takis Marko- ous with their time and expertise, particularly poulos, Alan Matthews, Tim McGrath, Dean Heli Hulkko, Leena Varpiola, Max Lindström, Meservy, Mark Moloney, David Montgomery, Tomi Karjalainen, Pirjo Taurula and Henna Arve- Tom Moore, Ignacio Morejon, Jim O’Donnell, la. Special thanks are due to Ami Ahlgren; wild- Ulrike Pellner, Torsten Reichardt, Gladys life guide and translator Esa Muikku; traveller Rousseau, Michal Rudziecki, Juha Saarinen, Kate Brown; and the bus driver who rescued my Jarkko Salonen, Helena Savolainen, Felix car near Vuonislahti – I wish I knew your name. Scholtes, Mike Scott, Jenni Stenman, Janne Toivonen, Hans van der Veeke, Indiya White- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS head, Edward Williams, Sekeun Yu Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated AUTHOR THANKS World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Andy Symington Sciences, 11, 1633 44. Research was brightened for a few days by Bestselling guide to Finland – source: the excellent company of my parents: many Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, thanks! As ever, a large kiitos to Gustav, Marja, January 2011 to December 2011. Mirjam and recent arrival Meri Schulman for unfailingly generous Helsinki hospitality; and Cover photograph: Winter landscape at to Fran Parnell great co-writing and for an Kuusamo. Franz Christoph Robiller/Image- excellent authors’ evening in the capital. For broker. various helpful deeds thanks to Iain, Teija, Many of the images in this guide are avail- Jonah and Alex Campbell, Riika Åkerlind, able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: Jenni Vähäsöyrinki, Alexis Kouros, Anne Harju, www.lonelyplanetimages.com. d t air L

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356 BEHIND THE SCENES