National Park Service Park News & Planner U.S. Department of the Interior

The offi cial newspaper of Big Bend National Park and the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River The Paisano Volume 26, No. 2 Winter 2005/2006 Dan Leavitt

Folding in the area of the Ernst Tinaja

Written in Stone What’s Inside

Backcountry Planning...... 13 WELCOME TO BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK AND THE RIO GRANDE WILD In this issue of the Big Bend Paisano, we explore the complex geologic Bookstore...... 3 and Scenic River! Big Bend is one of the largest and least visited of and paleontologic resources of the Big Bend. While not as famous Dayhikes...... 9 America’s national parks. Over 800,000 acres await your exploration as other national park areas such as the Grand Canyon, Big Bend is a Desert Sanctuary ...... 6 and enjoyment. From an elevation of less than 2,000 feet along the special place to study geology. The rocks are clearly exposed, thanks to General Info & Services...... 12 Rio Grande to nearly 8,000 feet in the Chisos Mountains, Big Bend sparse vegetation and recent erosion. A remarkable array of geologic Important Phone Numbers ...... 16 includes massive canyons, vast desert expanses, and the entire processes are displayed here, from volcanoes and landslides to fossils Keeping Wildlife Wild ...... 11 Chisos Mountain range. and fl ash fl oods. Ross Maxwell, who studied Big Bend geology for Park Map...... 16 over fi fty years, once said, “as more and more time is spent in Big Bend Park News...... 4 Here, you can explore one of the last remaining wild corners of the country and more details worked out it becomes increasingly evident Pets in the Park...... 14 United States, and experience unmatched sights, sounds, and solitude. that we have only begun to read the story told in the rocks.” Safety...... 15 Weather and Climate...... 15 What Can Kids Do here?...... 14 Superintendent’s Welcome What to See and Do...... 8

Welcome to Big Bend National Park and The fossil record here continues uninterrupt- Features the Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River, two of ed from the Age of Reptiles into the Age of Big Bend’s Badlands...... 7 THE most special places administered by the Mammals. Over 90 dinosaur species, nearly Birds & Birdwatching...... 10 National Park Service. We trust that you will 100 plant species, and more than two dozen A Dinosaur Tale...... 7 have a wonderful time as you explore and fi sh, frogs, salamanders, turtles, crocodiles, Geology Research in Big Bend...... 4 experience these great parks. lizards, and even early mammals have been Geology Driving Tour ...... 5 discovered here, giving us one of the most The Story of “Leaverite”...... 14 Much of this issue of The Paisano is devoted complete pictures of a prehistoric ecosystem Night Skies...... 10 to the geology and paleontology of these park known anywhere on earth. units. Big Bend is often described as a geolo- What is a Paisano? gist’s paradise. Its complex geologic history National parks like Big Bend belong to us all, Paisano is a spanish word meaning country- presents a modern day challenge and adven- and as such we have a shared stewardship man or peasant that is used throughout the ture to students and researchers from around role. Please be mindful of that as you spend American southwest as a nickname for the the globe. Big Bend is one of the true jewels time in YOUR national park. Leave only roadrunner. for paleontological research in the world. footprints and take only memories. Above all be safe. Superintendent John H. King Remember: • The speed limit on all park roads is 45 MPH, unless posted slower. • Resource collecting is prohibited in Visitor Information Big Bend National Park. Be on the lookout for illegal collecting activities and report 8 What to See & Do 9 Day Hikes 16 Park Map suspicious activities to a visitor center, or park ranger. Find out how to make the most of your time in Find descriptions of many of the most popular Don’t know where you are? The park map can the park. Recommendations and suggested trip easy and moderate hiking trails here. A detailed help. This page also includes a list of useful Emergencies itineraries for one day, three day, or week long description of each trail includes length, average phone numbers for services both in and outside Call 911 or 432-477-2251 24-hours a day visits can be found here. time required, diffi culty, and location. the park. or contact a Park Ranger...... National Park Service Big Bend and the Border U.S. Department of the Interior Viewing the sun set against the Sierra del Carmen mountains is a sublime Big Bend experi- Big Bend National Park ence, underlined by the irony that the mountains aren’t a part of the National Park; in fact, they aren’t even located in the United States. In addition to defi ning the curve that forms the The Big Bend Paisano is published three Big Bend, the Rio Grande also serves as the international boundary between the United States times a year by the National Park Service and Mexico. Throughout much of its history the border along the Rio Grande has often been Border Merchants and the Big Bend Natural History Associa- fl uid, allowing people of both countries to come and go as needed. However, the border is an Mexican Nationals may approach you from tion for the orientation and education of artifi cial boundary imposed on the natural environment, and as such is subject to political and across the river to purchase souvenir items visitors to Big Bend National Park and the social pressures. Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River. (walking sticks, bracelets, crafts, etc.). If you agree to look at/or purchase their items and Increased border restrictions following the 2001 terrorist attacks have led to a number of National Park Service the Mexicans cross the river, they may be important changes that aff ect the international boundary in Big Bend. A visit to Big Bend is Editor, Eric Leonard, Park Ranger arrested for being in the U.S. illegally. They a wonderful experience to learn about the park’s history and to experience a wide variety of Chief Naturalist, David Elkowitz will be held until deported back to Mexico natural history and recreation options. The park’s border with Mexico is part of our shared Superintendent, John H. King through Presidio (100 miles away). Mexican landscape and a chance to experience and learn about our neighbors. A few simple steps can merchants will be arrested for illegal com- help keep the park safe for everyone who is here. The National Park Service was established mercial operations which may result in a fi ne on August 25, 1916. . . “to conserve the and/or additional incarceration while await- scenery and the natural and historic ob- Crossings Remain Closed When Visiting A Border Park ing adjudication prior to deportation. jects and the wildlife. . . and to provide for As a result of a 2002 US Customs and Border Big Bend National Park shares the border the enjoyment of the same in such man- Protection decision, there are NO authorized with Mexico for 118 miles. This is a remote re- Items purchased will be considered contra- ner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future crossings in Big Bend National Park. Crossing gion; however, each year hundreds of people band and seized by offi cers when encountered. generations.” Authorized by congress in at Boquillas, Santa Elena, or other locations travel north through the area seeking to enter Rocks, minerals, archeological items etc. 1935, and established in June 1944, Big along the Rio Grande is prohibited. The closest the United States. Please keep the following cannot be purchased, imported, or possessed Bend National Park preserves the most legal ports of entry are Del Rio and Presidio, in mind while visiting Big Bend: in the national park. representative example of the Chihuahuan Texas. Desert ecosystem in the United States. As • If you see any activity which seems to be In addition, illegal trade impacts the re- conservation educators, the park’s Divi- The U.S. Attorney’s Offi ce has indicated that suspicious, illegal, or out of place please do sources of the park in a number of negative sion of Interpretation and Visitor Services it will prosecute any criminal violations re- not intervene. Report it to a ranger as quickly ways, including the creation of social trails, provides guided walks, talks, evening slide garding any illegal crossings. If you re-enter as possible. the cutting of cane along the river, erosion of programs, workshops, and other educa- the United States at any point within Big Bend riverbanks and an increased amount of gar- tional activities as well as written materials National Park, you may be liable for a fi ne of • It is possible you could encounter an indi- bage and contaminants along the Rio Grande such as this newspaper. not more than $5,000 or imprisonment for up vidual or small group trying to walk through watershed. Supporting this illegal activity Big Bend Natural History Association to one year, or both. the park with little or no water. Please do not contributes to continued damage of the Executive Director, Mike Boren stop, but instead, immediately report such natural resources along the Rio Grande, and Sales Manager, Tom Gaffaney occurrences to a ranger. Lack of water is a jeopardizes the possibility of reopening the Assistant Sales Manager, Barbara Hines life-threatening emergency in the desert. crossings in the future. Visitor Services Assistant, Anita Johnson

The Big Bend Natural History Association, established in Volunteers in the Park 1956 as a private, non-profi t organization, champions Last year over 320 volunteers contributed 48,634 hours of service to Big Bend National Park. Honor Roll the mission of the National Some service groups come for a few days, other volunteers stay for months. Some are students, Join us in thanking the following individuals Park Service in facilitating popular inter- others are retirees looking for adventure during their “golden years.” Most of these volunteers pretation of the scenic, scientifi c, and and organizations who have recently donated work in visitor centers and as campground hosts; however, volunteers also help in science and historic values of Big Bend and encourages 100 or more hours in volunteer service to Big resource management, maintenance, and administration. Regardless of age or background, research related to those values. The As- Bend: these folks share a desire to make a positive contribution to the preservation and management sociation conducts seminars and publishes, Madeline Averett of Big Bend National Park. Volunteers are a valuable and valued part of our operation and our prints, or otherwise provides books, maps, Steve Harper and interpretive materials on the Big Bend community. Sally and Bob Jones region. Proceeds fund exhibits, fi lms, in- Joan and Jack Lamkin terpretive programs, seminars, museum Virginia and David Lynch activities, and research. Volunteer Spotlight Terry Purvis Bob Wirt has volunteered over 9,000 hours to Carol Russell Photograph Credits the National Park Service, and over half of those Nicola Stringer The Paisano proudly uses photographs of hours have been in Big Bend National Park. In Steve Wick the park taken by visitors when possible. Big Bend, he gets out in the fi eld doing grass Clara and George Willis These photographs bear the photogra- restoration and soil conservation projects for the Bob Wirt pher’s name; all uncredited images are NPS Division of Science and Resource Management. photographs. This work is not glamorous, but labor intensive. It includes seeding the eroded areas in the northern On matters relating to this publication: sections of the park, protecting seeded areas with National Park Service brush coverings, hauling brush for future seed- Editor, The Big Bend Paisano ing, monitoring and maintaining rain gauges and PO Box 129 soil moisture sensors, maintaining appropriate Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 records, and monitoring the progress of various [email protected] projects.

The National Park Service cares for the spe- Bob also has a deep interest in the park’s cultural cial places saved by the American people history, especially of the Castolon area. He does so that all may experience our heritage. extensive research, searches for and documents historic and prehistoric sites, and conducts inter- EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ pretive programs on the information he gathers. 2 The Big Bend Paisano Big Bend Natural History Association

Eric Batchelder PO Box 196, Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834 432-477-2236 www.bigbendbookstore.org

What is the Big Bend What’s New Featured Books General Books The Big Bend of the Rio Grande Natural History Association? We’ve made two major changes in the way we Big Bend: Offi cial National Park Handbook Ross A. Maxwell. For years “the” defi nitive over- This full color book gives a brief introduction to The Big Bend Natural History Association do business this year: we have a new online all guide to the Big Bend. Overviews of geology, the park and its history. It also contains a concise (BBNHA) was established in 1956 as a private, bookstore, and we have hired a contractor to history, landscape, and settlers of the area of travel guide. $9.95 non-profi t organization. The Association’s conduct our seminar programs. The website Big Bend National Park. Extremely useful for the goal is to educate the public and increase is at the same address: www.bigbendbook- scope of its coverage, and the magnifi cent fold- Big Bend: The Story Behind the Scenery their understanding and appreciation of store.org , but we have a much improved site out geologic map of the area in the back sleeve is General overview of Big Bend’s natural features. the Big Bend Area and what it represents in now with more options for purchasing books worth the price of the book by itself. $16.95 $9.95 terms of our historical and natural heritage. or membership, including the ability to pay BBNHA champions the mission of the Na- for things with PayPal. The search engine is Big Bend Vistas: A Geological Exploration of the Big Bend National Park Impressions tional Park Service of interpreting the scenic, better, and existing members can establish an Big Bend William MacLeod. This recent book Brilliant color photos of the big panoramas and scientifi c, and historic values of Big Bend and account which automatically calculates their takes you along the highways in the Big Bend re- the small gems of the park. $9.95 gion describing and explaining mile by mile, with encourages research related to those values. discount in the pricing. road logs, the geology and landscapes. $27.95 The Association conducts seminars and pub- Trip Planning and Park Information lishes, prints, or otherwise provides books, The seminar program will also remain much Deluxe Trip Planner Down to Earth at Tuff Canyon maps, and interpretive materials on the Big Contains the following items: Road Guide, Back- the same. We still decide what programs to Daniel S. Barker. At Tuff Canyon along the Ross country Road Guide, Hiker’s Guide, Park Hand- Bend region. Proceeds fund exhibits, fi lms, off er and determine the annual calendar of Maxwell Scenic Drive, water has carved a deep book, Bird, Butterfl y, Invertebrate, Mammal, and interpretive programs, seminars, museum events, but we have entered into a contract gouge through layers of ash, exposing lava beds Reptile Checklists, Texas Highway Map, Chisos activities, and research. with Far Flung Outdoor Center (FFOC) of beneath. This fascinating book tells about the Mountains Trail Map, Terlingua-Chisos Map, and Study Butte, Texas, to conduct the day-to-day geology, the plants, and the animals that inhabit Nature Guide. A $26.50 value for $21.50. The Association’s past and present projects business of advertising, booking, and con- this seemingly inhospitable area. $14.95 include: ducting the seminars themselves. Hiker’s Guide to Big Bend National Park Geo-Texas: A Guide to Earth Sciences • Operate book sales outlets in Big Bend Na- Updated in 2005. Covers all major trails in the Eric R. Swanson. Brings together astronomy, tional Park and Amistad National Recreation The 2006 seminar catalog should be out soon park, from short self-guiding nature trails to geology, meterology, oceanography, and environ- Area and will be available on our website and the strenuous backpacking routes. $1.95 mental studies in a highly informative, one-of-a- • Publish trail guides and brochures and assist FFOC website. The new place to book semi- kind guide to earth science in the Lone Star State. with the publication of The Big Bend Paisano nars will be: seminars@ff oc.net or 1-877-839- Road Guide to paved and improved dirt roads $15.95 • Sponsor an on-going Seminar program Describes points of interest visible from all paved 5337 or 1-432-371-3202. and improved dirt roads in the park. $1.95 • Provide annual grants for research projects The Field Guide to Geology and administer grants and gifts received for David Lambert and the Diagram Group. An inno- Road Guide to backcountry dirt roads the park vative, clearly descriptive, and enjoyable introduc- Updated in 2004. Detailed mileage logs of Old • Support the park’s volunteer, Junior Ranger, tory earth science book. $14.95 Ore Road, Glenn Spring Road and River Road. and educational outreach programs Mike Boren, Executive Director Good descriptions of historic sites and scenery, human and natural history. $1.95

Join Us! Subscribe to Guide Set—Best Value! Become a member and create a lasting relationship with Big Bend National Park. The Big Bend Paisano Buy all three guides together (hiker’s & both road guides) and save! $5.00 Member Benefi ts Keep up with your favorite national park Membership benefi ts include a 15% discount in BBNHA bookstores; a 10% discount on most through a subscription to the park news- River Guides seminars; a subscription to the Big Bend Paisano; a current Big Bend calendar; dicounts at many paper. Note: BBNHA Members already Printed on waterproof paper to ensure their long- other association bookstores in other national park sites; and the opportunity to support scien- receive a subscription to the Paisano. term usefulness, this guide contains topographic tifi c, educational and research prorams in Big Bend. 3 issues per year $10 (US & Canada) strip maps showing both sides of the river. All International subscribers $35 rapids and major topographical features are Do more with your dues! labeled. General information river guide included Purchase a dual annual membership in both BBNHA and the Friends of Big Bend National Park Name:______with purchase. $3.00 ea. for only $100. Address:______Vol. 1: Colorado Canyon through Santa Elena Name ______Canyon Annual Dues City:______Individual $50 Address ______Vol. 2: Mariscal Canyon through Boquillas Canyon Associate $100 City ______State _____ Zip ______State, Zip:______Corporate $200 Make checks payable to BBNHA or charge to: Maps Chisos Mountains Trails Map Joint Membership (W/ FBBNP) ___ Visa ___ Mastercard ___ Discover Mail check or money order payable to A topographic map that includes all trails in the Card Number ______Exp. Date ____ BBNHA. Life Membership Signature ______Chisos Mountains. Includes trail lengths and descriptions. 99¢ Indvidual/Family $500 Detach and mail to: Big Bend Natural History Association, Detach and mail to: Corporate $1000 PO Box 196, Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834 Big Bend Natural History Association Trails Illustrated Topographic Map Benefactor $2500 Telephone: 432-477-2236 PO Box 196 The entire 1,200 square miles of Big Bend NP on Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834 Renewal You can also join online at www.bigbendbookstore.org one map! Backcountry and day hiking informa- New Member tion. Waterproof and tearproof. Scale 1:133333 $9.95 The Big Bend Paisano 3 Entrance Fees at Park News Big Bend National Park Park Website to be Overhauled After ten years of virtual existence, the Big Bend website (http://www.nps.gov/bibe/) is about Why Do Parks Charge A Fee? to undergo its biggest face-lift yet. The entire National Park Service website (nps.gov), Much of the funding for Big Bend and including Big Bend’s site, will undergo a site-wide change. At present, park webpages can be other national parks comes from American taxpayers. However, protecting this land diffi cult to use, as organization, accuracy, and quality of expanded content varies widely from and ensuring that you have a safe, enjoy- park to park. The new park website will include consistent, easy-to-use navigation, improved able and educational experience costs photo galleries, and a complete index. Most of the existing content, over 750 pages, will be more than this tax base provides. There- transferred to the new site, and reorganized or updated as needed. In the future, additional fore, the U.S. Congress determined that multimedia presentations may be added as well. The new site should become active by people who use federal lands should pay February 2006, and by the end of next year all existing pages will be retired. Frequent users of fees to offset the difference. the website should expect many bookmarked pages to change. Where Does Your Money Go? Food Storage Boxes installed at Rio Grande Village Twenty percent of the money collected This fall animal-proof food storage boxes were installed at all 100 sites of the Rio Grande from entrance and campground fees is Village campground. Visitors who have camped there in the past may recall that javelina can redistributed to units of the National Park System that do not charge fees to assist in tear open tents looking for food scraps. The boxes now provide a better oportunity for all the upkeep and upgrade of those areas. campers to properly store ice chests and food items where the wildlife cannot reach them. Eighty percent of the money stays in Big Over time this should vastly improve the visitor experience in the campground. Bend National Park.

Water Cache Box installed at Blue Creek How Is Your Money Used? This fall an animal-proof box was installed below the Homer Wilson Ranch/Blue Creek pull- Your entrance and campground fees help off for use as water cache storage by visitors hiking the Outer Mountain Loop. In the past, the Big Bend National Park complete impor- area adjacent to the old ranch buildings had been used by hikers to store water bottles; this tant projects that directly benefi t you and practice led to damage and unauthorized use of the historic structures. The new water cache other park visitors. box will allow hikers a consistent, designated place for water storage when hiking this loop. Recent Projects at Big Bend Made Any Park in a Storm Possible By Your Fees: • Reconstruction of the Rio Grande Village The eff ects of the hurricanes that struck the gulf coast this fall reached all the way to Big Bend. nature trail boardwalk A small number of visitors traveled here to escape hurricane Katrina, and in late September • Installation of a toilet at Hot Springs some 300 visitors spent their evacuation time from hurricane Rita in Big Bend. National parks • Develop a visitor center at Castolon across the south and southwest waived entrance and camping fees for evacuees. Four park • Improvements to river access boat ramps employees and members of the Diablos fi re crew also participated in hurricane rescue and recovery eff orts throughout the latter part of the year. Future Projects: Top: The new Big Bend website should debut early in • Major expansion of the Panther Junction 2006. visitor center Bottom: The water cache box is located 100 yards • Castolon historic district exhibits below the Homer Wilson Ranch pull-off.

Geologic Research in Big Bend underway in the park. Fossil studies include Geologist Don Corrick dinosaurs, large turtles, petrifi ed wood, ancient mammals, and marine invertebrates ON THE SHOULDERS OF GIANTS We still rely on this map and report today; date the past half-century of geologic re- called ammonites. The park’s rich volcanic The dramatic and diverse geology of the Big but despite the excellence of this work, its search in the park, much of which is unpub- history has always been an area of research Bend has attracted geologists for over a authors faced handicaps that limit its useful- lished. This fresh look at the park’s geology interest. Current topics include geologic century. Early geological reports were ness in modern science. Most problematic will apply modern understanding of earth history of the Pine Canyon caldera, the lava published by R.T. Hill in 1902 and by J.A. was the lack of topographic maps at the time processes, and this will change some of the fl ows of the South Rim and Chisos Udden in 1907. These early studies by two of the study. This resulted in the geologic interpretations suggested by Maxwell and formations, and detailed studies of igneous legendary pioneers of Texas geology were an map having distortions that cannot be cor- others. The park is already providing updat- intrusions such as dikes and laccoliths. auspicious beginning for the study of a very rected, so the geology cannot now be overlain ed interpretations of some geologic features, Graduate students and university professors complex and important region. In subsequent onto topographic maps. Additionally, great such as Goat Mountain, by installing new are also studying the stratigraphy and years many other geologists have contributed advances in technology and geologic under- roadside exhibits. deposition of various sedimentary rocks, in- to our understanding of the area. standing have been made in the 50 years since cluding the Boquillas Formation, the Chisos this work was performed, providing new Perhaps most importantly, the new map will Formation, and the Banta Shut-in Formation. The most ambitious and important study thus techniques for geologic study and new ideas fi t the topography, allowing it to be used in far was undertaken by a group of four men about how the earth works. powerful computer-driven analyses, such as THE VALUE OF RESEARCH led by Ross Maxwell, who also served as the the Geographic Information System (GIS). Scientifi c research carried out in Big Bend park’s fi rst superintendent. Maxwell and his A NEW MAP GIS permits park managers to analyze the and the other national parks provides a wide colleagues John T. Lonsdale, Roy T. Hazzard, The largest geology research project currently eff ects and interactions of all park resources, range of benefi ts. The public benefi ts from and John A. Wilson worked on the area’s underway in the park is an attempt to create a such as rocks, soils, plants, animals, water, the insights that provide a better understand- geology , fi nally new geologic map. Led by the U.S. Geologi- and human history. Geology is a vital part of ing of the natural world. Park managers use publishing “Geology of Big Bend National cal Survey, dozens of scientists are collabo- this analysis so the new map will fi ll a crucial research to make science-based decisions Park, Brewster County, Texas” in 1967. This is rating on the project, with some geologists need. For visitors interested in geology, the about managing park resources, and the preeminent geologic report on Big Bend, dividing up mapping duties and other experts new map should be available in park book- scientists use information to further their and the foundation of geology interpretation studying various specialized problems. The stores in about two years. own research. Interest in conducting re- in the park for over forty years. The geologic group includes USGS geologists, National search at a park is a measure of the scientifi c map that was published in the report is still Park Service geologists, and numerous uni- DINOSAURS, VOLCANOES & OTHER RESEARCH signifi cance of park resources, and with over available to park visitors as an insert in Ross versity professors and their graduate students. In addition to the big re-mapping project, a 100 annual permits, Big Bend National Park’s Maxwell’s “Guidebook 7, The Big Bend of the The new map is an opportunity to consoli- wide range of geologic research is currently research program is among the most active in Rio Grande.” the National Park System. 4 The Big Bend Paisano In Layman’s Terms: Geology Terms Basalt Geologic Highlights of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive Dark gray to black dense to fi ne-grained igne- Ranger Angelina Yost ous rock, mainly found under the ocean, rich in iron and magnesium created by the partial melting of the mantle; basalt is runny as molas- ses when liquid and can fl ow long distances in thin sheets. Have you ever been frustrated in your attempt to understand geological text in a book or exhibit? Many of us have. Here is an opportunity to take the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and learn, in layman’s terms, about its many distinctive Breccia and unique geologic formations. It is a drive that mainly tells a story about the unnamed, small volcanic vents Extrusive igneous rock consisting of sharp frag- scattered throughout the western portion of the park. Allow for a good part of the morning or afternoon, especially ments embedded in a fi ne grain mixture such as if you choose to take the 12.8 mile gravel Old Maverick Road back. sand or clay. Extrusions Begin your tour at the beginning of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, thirteen miles west of Panther Junction. Igneous rock formed from magma that has erupted onto the surface of the earth; includes MILE 1 MILE 11.6 MILE 20.5 lavas, pyroclastic fl ows, and volcanic ash. The low-lying, non-descript hills immediately Turn here to hike the Lower Burro Mesa Ash in the air from another nearby volcanic Granite surrounding you, colored tan to grey, some- Pour-off Trail. From here the face of this vent settled to form ashfall tuff , the material Silica-rich rock forming the make-up of most of times covered with a dark brown layer, are mesa is well exposed, giving us a nice cross- that composes these striking white hills that the continents; intrusions are made of granite. sedimentary rocks from the late Cretaceous section of what is currently theorized to be surround you. The black rocks sprinkled on Period, deposited 88 to 65 million years ago a volcanic dome complex. About 29 mya, top are the remains of a thin lava fl ow, basalt, Igneous rock A rock made from molten or partly molten (mya). Mostly shale, claystone, siltstone and several local volcanic vents spewed out red possibly from the same vent. material. sandstone, these deposits are easily eroded hot clouds of ash, rock fragments, and molten and are often covered by alluvium or gravel rock droplets (light bands), followed by thick, MILE 21.1 Intrusions carried down from the taller mountains. slow moving lava that formed into domes The layered mountain in front of you is Cerro Igneous rock that has formed from a magma that never reached the earth’s surface, but Read the article on Cretaceous dinosaurs on (dark bands). An exhibit at your next stop Castolon. Although Cerro Castolon, Burro instead seeped in between pre-existing rock page seven and learn about the environment provides details on the volcanic dome theory. Mesa, and Goat Mountain are formed from layers. which created these rocks. The rest of the three entirely diff erent vents, they all have tour will highlight volcanic features that are MILE 14.8 similar pyroclastic rock layers, topped by a Lava Magma that comes to the earth’s surface sitting on these sediments. Goat Mountain has long been a required stop lava dome. From top to bottom, the layers are through a volcanic vent or fi ssure. for geology students visiting Big Bend. The rhyolite, breccia, and basalt. MILE 2 roadside exhibit here details the most recent Magma As you drive the fi rst few miles of this road, theory on the formation of Goat Mountain. SANTA ELENA CANYON Naturally occurring mobile rock material, gen- erated within the earth and capable of being the Chisos Mountains fi ll your windshield. The recent replacement of this exhibit is an Travel down this trail to the base of these extruded and intruded, from which igneous The ‘V’ shaped notch in the middle of the example of how our interpretation of geology sheer cliff walls of limestone towering 1500 rocks are derived through cooling. mountains is the back side of the “Window.” is constantly changing as we continue to learn feet above you. Stop for a moment at one From mile two, the fl at-topped mountain, from years of research. of the large boulders and look for fossils of Pyroclastic surge deposit Hot clouds of particles and gas from a volcanic Casa Grande, is centered through the shells that formed these walls. Imagine how vent that swept over the ground surface rapidly Window. It is formed from layers of lava and MILE 15.5 many millions of years it would have taken in a turbulent fl ow. ash possibly topped by a volcanic dome. Underground volcanic activity was pretty to deposit all these tiny shells and form these extensive 28-24 mya. Mule Ears are two enormous limestone cliff s. The limestone was Pyroclastic ash fl ow Hot clouds of particles and gas that were denser MILE 4 eroded dikes from this time period. Did you deposited 144 to 88 mya. than surges and moved in a sliding fl ow. Notice the rock walls on your left, running notice all the brown hills and spires, on either down from the slopes of the Chisos Moun- side of the road, before and after the turn There are many theories, and not very much Rhyolite tains at a 45 degree angle to the road. These for Mule Ears? Igneous rock seeped to the evidence, on how the Rio Grande formed The lava form of granite; very acid lava rock, fi ne grained, high in silica, which is quite vis- ridges are dikes, intrusive magma which fi lled surface through older layers of sediment and Santa Elena Canyon. One theory is that this cous. If rhyolite does not contain water, it oozes up cracks in the earth and solidifi ed under- formed unusual shapes made up of a rock area was once a large basin of water and fault- out and creates volcanic domes. If rhyolite ground during the Basin and Range Fault- called rhyolite. ing created a channel for the water to drain. contains water, or comes in contact with water, ing Period, 24 to 28 mya. In the intervening Another theory is that previous rock layers the water becomes superheated and the lava explodes on release of pressure, creating clouds years, the softer overlying and surrounding MILE 20—TUFF CANYON that once sat on top of the limestone have of dust and ash. sediments eroded away, exposing these paral- This canyon was formed as run-off down channeled the river to its present location lel dikes. Blue Creek carved through layers of pyroclas- over the last few million years. To experience Tuff tic ash fl ows and surge-deposits, deposited 29 the canyon and its imposing rock walls, A rock composed of consolidated or cemented volcanic ash; a mixture of clay and glass; MILE 8—BLUE CREEK RANCH OVERLOOK mya, from a volcanic vent located on the east following the trail across Terlingua Creek. includes ash-fl ow tuff and ash-fall tuff. Stop here to look at the old ranching house or side of the road. Make sure to experience the to hike a mile up the canyon to the red rock dizzying view of the canyon from all three The scenic tour of Big Bend geology does not Volcanic dome formations. The red rocks represent another viewpoints. end here. Continue down any road in the Extrusive igneous rock, composed of rhyolite, exposed to the surface from a volcanic vent, geologic mystery, as there is no explanation area to discover more geologic wonders. that oozed out but did not fl ow and cooled behind their formation at this time. slowly.

MILE 8.3—SOTOL VISTA OVERLOOK Who was Ross Do not miss this spectacular view as the Maxwell? desert drops below you. As you gaze out Ross Maxwell (1904- 1993) served as the from the viewing area, notice the cliff fi rst superintendent face, forming a long mesa that fi lls of Big Bend National the western horizon. The cleft Park, from 1944-52. A research geologist, in the middle of this mesa is Maxwell fi rst came to Santa Elena Canyon. the Big Bend in 1936 to work on a geological survey of the region for the National Park Service. While superintendent, Maxwell laid out the route of the road today named in his honor to highlight the more spectacular geologic features on the west side of the park.

The Big Bend Paisano 5 A Desert Sanctuary

The physiographic order of the Big Bend is somewhat like the order of a great city built of stone and brick—wrecked by an earth- quake. Perhaps order once prevailed there, but some mighty force wrecked the place, shook it down, turned it over, blew it up, and set it afi re. Evidences that all this happened exist on every hand, making the land the fi nest example of earth-wreckage in Texas. Walter Prescott Webb, 1937

Big Bend National Park is much more than just a recreational destination. It is a sanctuary of natural and cultural resources—a living museum for all the world. Conserving this heritage is a task the National Park Service cannot accomplish alone. All of us serve a critical role in maintaining Big Bend’s sanctuary for the future. R. Zerr S. Collyer

Keep wildlife wild. Human foods are not healthy Please respect the peace and quiet of Big Bend’s You are an important resource, too. Use common Collecting any natural or historical feature or for wildlife. Feeding wild animals is illegal and unique environment and protect the subtle sense and good judgement to protect your own object is strictly prohibited. Leave the park intact can cause injury or death to the animal. Keep sounds of nature by traveling quietly. safety and take advantage of our educational for others to enjoy. If you witness any collecting, food in a hard-sided vehicle or food storage programs to enhance your knowledge of Big report it to a park ranger as soon as possible. locker where provided. Bend.

6 The Big Bend Paisano Described by Dr. Tom Lehman, C. marisca- Sediments and depositional areas of this lensis was a plant eater related to Triceratops. period began about 74 mya and continued A Dinosaur Tale With a three meter skull adorned with horns until the great extinction 65 mya. The and a scalloped frill, this imposing creature dinosaurian fauna of the Javelina is not Ranger Rob Dean weighed up to three tons, was eight meters dissimilar from its Aguja counterpart—there long and traveled in herds. Big Bend fossils were horned ceratopsians, duck-billed include bone beds with adult, subadult, and hadrosaurs, large sauropods, and large juvenile individuals. What violent catastro- predaceous meat eaters. phe destroyed this herd? The ceratopsian, Torosaurus utahensis, is the Other dinosaurs known from the Aguja Javelina tri-horned representative. Incom- formation include the hadrosaur Kritosaurus plete fossil evidence suggest that duck-billed navajovius, a duck-billed plant eater. An hadrosaurs were represented by something egg layer, K. navajovius, was 10 meters long similar to Edmontosaurus sp., a bipedal 3.5 and four meters tall, weighed two tons, and ton plant eater 12 m in length. Alamosaurus is may represent a major prey item for preda- the largest of Big Bend’s dinosaurs at 25 m in tors. Some lesser known specimens, based length and weighing 30 tons—a super-sized on fragmented fossil evidence, may include a giant that was a plant eater and represents a Big Bend’s rocks tell a fabulous story about By geological standards, the Big Bend’s pachycephalosaur, the dome-headed Stego- signifi cant discovery for the late Cretaceous. dinosaurs. It is a mystery, the kind that never dinosaur tale is a short story containing three cerus, a plant eater about two meters tall and Predators of this chapter include specimens becomes completely solved. It is a tale of chapters—a classic tale like Beowulf—strange weighing 200 pounds; and the ankylosau- very similar to Tyrannosaurus rex, the most intrigue, violence, and fascinating characters and unusual beasts, characterized as magnifi - rid, Euoplocephalus, an armored plant eater popular dinosaur of all time. that interact with changing environments, cent giant monsters, meet a violent end after weighing 2.5 tons, six meters in length, with a habitats, and ecosystems over many millions dominating the landscape. It is an important huge bony club at the end of its tail. While Big Bend fossils clearly feature a of years. The tale reveals itself unwillingly— tale highlighting the late Cretaceous and the spectacular dinosaur fauna, not all fossils are researchers must pry the story from the rocks last 20 million years of the dinosaurian reign, The Aguja chapter lasted about 10 million dinosaurs. The skies had large fl ying reptiles grain by grain, crystal by crystal, searching for making Big Bend’s reptilian fauna the most years, with the sea continuing its regression. such as Quetzalcoatalus northropi and the answers. signifi cant in North America. The retreating sea exposed more landmass seas were home to mosasaurs, a large marine which facilitated environmental changes over predator. Dinosaurs were strictly land The tale begins in the late Cretaceous about Chapter one concentrates on rocks of the time—the marine infl uence was replaced by dwellers and did not live in water. 84 million years ago when Big Bend became Aguja (A-goo-ha) formation whose sediments freshwater habitats and features. Like missing a landform. For many millions of years prior, were deposited as the ancient seaway pages in a novel, the Aguja does not tell its tale The end of this tale, the fi nal chapter, is dark Big Bend was underwater, as evidenced by retreated. Deposited between 84 and 74 easily; fossils tend to be fragmented, disjoint- and ominous—the Javelina represents the end the rich marine sedimentary deposits ex- million years ago, this 240 meter thick layer ed, and broken up. Only a small portion of of the line, the fi nal dinosaur-bearing forma- posed in the canyons of Boquillas or Santa of limestone features a gradual faunal change the dinosaur fauna will be represented. And tion, the end of a great long era, the Creta- Elena. The great Western Interior Seaway, a from the bottom of the layer to the top. The so the mystery continues in the next chapter. ceous. The extinction of the dinosaurs and shallow, dynamic waterway with an average lower portion of the Aguja deposits include most living things 65 mya was catastrophic, depth of 200 meters, split North America into marine fossils such as ammonites, clams and In chapter two the resulting formation, the violent, and world changing. Big Bend’s geol- an eastern and a western landmass. As the bivalves; the upper deposits exhibit fossils Javelina (hav-uh-lena), is characterized by ogy is missing the pages of this story, its rocks landmass continued to emerge and the seas that lived in fresh water environments with fossils associated with freshwater environ- eroded and scattered, an regressed, the land we call Big Bend became a the dinosaurs. Big Bend’s best representative ments similar to the interior plains of Texas. incomplete novel waiting to be fi nished. shoreline complete with beaches, sand dunes, of the upper Aguja is a Chasmosaurus mar- And the mystery continues… estuaries, bays, and breaking seas. iscalensis, one of the tri-horned dinosaurs. Big Bend’s Badlands Volunteer Sharon Collyer Devoid of vegetation, visible water sources, Badlands reveal their treasure cache after and discernable wildlife, Big Bend’s badlands desert-drenching summer rains and scour- are often overlooked by park visitors. Found ing windy winter days. Through the erosive in the lowest park elevations, the bare, multi- powers of wind and water, vestiges of life long colored mounds are perhaps the epitome of gone are uncovered as the surrounding soils what the word “desert” traditionally implies: are washed and blown away. To the casual dusty, sterile, inhospitable, lonely. Ironically, visitor, these stark lumps of clay would be the the highly sculpted, sun-baked hills are a last place anyone would expect to fi nd traces tangible reminder of an era when water was of early organisms. However, if a person plentiful, hardwood forests fl ourished, and could cut one of the soft mounds open with a enormous lizard-like creatures ruled the land. giant butter knife, a cornucopia of ancient re- mains would be exposed. What superfi cially Geologically speaking, badlands are the lay- may seem a bleak, sterile landscape paradoxi- ered clays, muds and silts that, millions of cally holds signifi cant evolutionary secrets years ago, formed the beds of ancient seas, and the concrete evidence of prehistoric life. rivers and marshlands. The sticky ooze at the bottom of these waterways entombed decay- We hear the word ‘barren’ used all too often ing matter as plants and animals died nearby to describe the austere quality of Big Bend’s and got carried into wet areas by fl oods and uninviting terrain and denuded landscape. scavengers. When the environment became Mysteries contained within layers of primor- drier and the waterways receded, these layers dial clay and hardened mud, however, serve of material eventually hardened, were over- to remind us that life is ephemeral and transi- laid with more material, and then gradually tory. Who is to say where the remains of our Sharon Collyer were exposed over the course of geologic civilization will be encased, or when they will The badlands on the west side of the park are formed from soft clay hills which yield to erosion history. resurface again… while the distant Chisos Mountains, crowned with hard lava fl ows, resist erosional forces.

The Big Bend Paisano 7 Floating the What to See and Do Rio Grande

If you have the time and a spirit of adventure, you may want to consider a river trip. Seeing the park’s canyons from the middle of the Rio Grande is both fascinating and gratifying. There are many possibilities, from half–day fl oats to extended seven–day excursions. Park Rangers can recommend a trip that meets your abilities and interests. Rafting and equipment rental companies are listed on page 16.

See “Backcountry Planning” on page 13 for

R. Zerr additional information on Big Bend river trips. You’ve driven many miles to get here, and have fi nally arrived at your destination: Big Bend National Park. But now what? Now that you’re here, how do you spend your time? Where should you go? What should you explore? The park is big, and often visitors have a limited amount of time to explore. Backcountry roads

If you have a high-clearance or four wheel One Day Three Days One Week drive vehicle, Big Bend’s backcountry roads call for further exploration. There are over If time allows, drive to the Chisos With three days to spend in the park, you can With a week or more to spend in Big Bend, 200 miles of dirt roads in the park. Improved Mountains to take in the spectacular explore the major roads more thoroughly and endless possibilities are open to you. You’ll dirt roads like the Dagger Flat and Grapevine mountain views. Walk the 0.3-mile self- still have time for hiking. In the Basin area, have plenty of time to explore the roads Hills roads are usually in good condition guiding Window View Trail to get a feel for consider hiking the Window Trail (5 miles mentioned in the previous sections, and will and accessible to normal passenger vehicles, the mountain scenery. round trip) or the Lost Mine Trail (4.8 miles also have time to hike or to drive some of the except following rainstorms. Unimproved round trip); consult the Hiker’s Guide to Trails “unimproved” dirt roads. For these, you’ll dirt roads, such as the Old Ore Road or River A trip along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive of Big Bend National Park, for sale in park need a high clearance or four-wheel drive Road generally require high-clearance will give you a taste of the Chihuahuan Desert visitor centers, for trail descriptions. vehicle; don’t forget to check at visitor vehicles and/or four wheel drive. Always and will lead you to the Rio Grande. There centers for current road conditions. The check current road conditions at a visitor are scenic overlooks and exhibits along the In addition to the Basin and Ross Maxwell River Road, Glenn Springs Road and Old Ore center before traveling and of the park’s way. Sotol Vista, Mule Ears Overlook and Tuff Scenic Drive (see suggestions for “one day”) Road are some of the more popular primitive primitive roads. Canyon are all worthwhile stops. The short you can drive to Rio Grande Village, roads. A visit to Ernst Tinaja near the south walks to the Sam Nail Ranch and Homer perhaps stopping at Dugout Wells along the end of the Old Ore Road is a Big Bend Wilson (Blue Creek) Ranch and a visit to way to walk the short Chihuahuan Desert highlight. the Castolon Historic District will give you a Nature Trail. The Rio Grande Village Visi- Enjoying Your Visit glimpse into Big Bend’s past. tor Center off ers a brief in troductory slide If you don’t have high clearance or four- No matter how limited your time in Big Bend, program. Walk the Rio Grande Village wheel drive, gravel roads such as Dagger Flat, remember that you will enjoy the park more A highlight is the short walk into Santa Elena Nature Trail which begins near site #18 in Grapevine Hills and Maverick will get you if you stop your car and explore on foot. That Canyon—one of Big Bend’s most scenic the campground. The bluff overlooking the “off the beaten path.” Hike the Chimneys doesn’t mean that you have to hike miles on spots. Travel to the end of the Ross Max well Rio Grande at the end of the nature trail is a steep grades; there are many short, easy walks Scenic Drive to access the trailhead. You particular ly beautiful spot at sunset. Trail, Mule Ears Trail, or Grapevine Hills Trail and roadside exhibits where you can stretch may return to the main road by returning on for a closer look at the desert environment. If your legs and enjoy the sights, smells and the Ross Maxwell Drive or on the Maverick Boquillas Canyon road will take you to you’d like to explore the Chisos Mountains, sounds of the Chihuahuan Desert. Road, a 13-mile gravel road linking the Ross several overlooks of the Rio Grande and the trails to Boot Canyon, Emory Peak and the Maxwell Drive to the Maverick (west) small village of Boquillas, Mexico. At the end South Rim off er good views of the park and Hiker’s guides and road guides are available Entrance. Always check on road conditions of the road is the Boquillas Canyon Trail, take you into another world which seems far at book sales areas through out the park, and fi rst. which takes you to the entrance of this removed from the desert. There are plenty they off er more detailed information about spectacular canyon. of opportunities for overnight backpacking Big Bend’s trails and roads. Attending ranger - along these trails. A free backcountry use led activities and evening programs are also permit is required and can be obtained at good ways to learn more about Big Bend; park visitor centers. check at the visitor centers and park bulletin boards for current activities.

Remember, you will NOT be able to see Boating in Santa Elena Canyon Exploring along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive Along the River Road everything on this trip. You will probably en joy the park more if you choose a few spots and explore them thoroughly to get a taste of what Big Bend has to off er. Then, come back again sometime to see the rest! R. Zerr J. Scheidt

8 The Big Bend Paisano Take a Hike on Big Bend Trails

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip Elevation Description (mi/km) (avg. time) (ft/m)

Eastside — Panther Junction and Rio Grande Village Boquillas Canyon End of Boquillas Canyon Road 1.4/2.3 1 hour 40/12 Easy Begins with a short climb, then descends via a sandy path to the river. Ends near a huge sand “slide.”

Chihuahuan Desert Dugout Wells 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 0/0 Easy A fl at desert path near a cottonwood oasis. Nature Trail 6 miles south of Panther Junction Signs interpret Chihuahuan Desert plant life.

Dog Canyon 3.5 miles south of Persimmon 5.0/8.0 2 hours 60/18 Moderate due to length. Informal hike to a promi- Gap nent canyon. Requires some modest route-fi nding.

Grapevine Hills Grapevine Hills Road mile 7 2.2/3.5 1 hour 240/73 Easy Follows a sandy wash through boulder fi eld. A A. Yost Usually passable to all vehicles. short climb at the end takes you to a large balanced Hiking at the Red Rocks. rock. Featured Hike Hot Springs End of Hot Springs Road. 0.75/1.2 1/2 hour 0/0 Easy Walk past historic buildings to the riverside hot Red Rocks Unpaved and narrow road. springs. 105oF water. Take a bathing suit and soak Distance: 2 mile (3.2 km) round trip a while. Elevation: Minimal gain of 200’ (61 meters) Rio Grande Rio Grande Village Campground 0.75/1.2 1/2 hour 130/40 Easy Cross a boardwalk to a great view of the river Village Nature Trail Opposite campsite 18 and distant mountains. Good birding and sunrise/ Welcome to Big Bend! You have hiked Santa sunset views. Elena, tried your luck with the Lost Mine Trail, and conquered Emory Peak. Now what? Have you ever heard of the Red Rocks? The Chisos Mountains Chances are that you haven’t, reason being it Basin Loop Chisos Basin Trailhead 1.6/2.6 1 hour 350/107 Moderate Connects the Laguna Meadow and Pin- (near the Basin Store) nacles Trails. Nice views of the Basin area. is not listed on any map. You can access this short walk from the Homer Wilson/Blue Creek Ranch parking area off the Ross Window View Chisos Basin Trailhead 0.3/0.5 1/4 hour 0/0 Easy Level, paved, handicapped accessible. Great (near the Basin Store) mountain views. The best place in the Basin to catch Maxwell Scenic Drive. From the parking area sunset through the Window. you will descend to the base of Blue Creek Canyon about a quarter of a mile, where the Lost Mine Basin Road mile 5 4.8/7.7 3 hours 1100/335 Moderate but steep This trail provides excellent Dodson and Blue Creek trails meet near the (at Panther Pass) mountain and desert views. Go halfway for a shorter hike. still standing ranch foreman’s house. This was the operations hub for the Homer The Window Chisos Basin Trailhead or 5.6/9.0 4 hours 980/299 Moderate with steep return Descends to the Wilson ranch, possibly the largest goat- Basin Campground 4.4/7.0 3 hours 500/152 top of the Window pouroff. Great scenery and wildlife viewing. For a shorter hike, start at the Basin ranching operation in this part of west Texas. campground. Note: Smoking is prohibited on the Window Trail. Turn northeast on the Blue Creek trail after Westside — Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive looking around the ranch foreman’s house. Blue Creek Ranch Ross Maxwell Drive 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 90/27 Easy Descends from overlook via old road to 1930s You will wander up this gravelly creek bed mile 8 ranch buildings; connects with Blue Creek Canyon & for a mile before arriving at the Red Rocks. Dodson trails. The huge red pinnacles welcome you into the Castolon Historic Castolon Historic District 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 20/6 Easy A short, self-guided walk highlighting the magnifi cent Blue Creek Canyon. These rocks District Ross Maxwell Drive unique history of this border community. are spread over the next three quarters of a mile 22 mile through the canyon and provide plenty Lower Burro Ross Maxwell Drive 1.0/1.6 1/2 hour 60/18 Easy A fl at, sandy trail up a canyon to the base of a of shady places to sit and ponder why they Mesa Pouroff mile 11 dry pouroff. Interesting geology and desert plants. called it Blue Creek.

Sam Nail Ranch Ross Maxwell Drive 0.5/0.8 1/4 hour 0/0 Easy A loop walk through the remains of a fairly Some visitors wander further up the trail, mile 3 typical 1930s Big Bend area ranch. though most are content with the fi rst couple of miles. As it nears the steeper slopes of the Chisos the trail becomes more strenu- Santa Elena 8 miles west of Castolon 1.6/2.6 1/2 hour 80/24 Easy Crosses creekbed, climbs stairs, then follows Canyon the river upstream into the mouth of the canyon. ous, climbing up switchbacks and eventually Flash fl ooding on Terlingua Creek can close this trail. dropping into Laguna Meadow.

Tuff Canyon Ross Maxwell Drive 0.75/1.2 1 hour 70/21 Easy Balconies overlook this scenic canyon. A short mile 19 trail leads into and through the canyon itself. For Your Safety While Hiking • Wear hiking boots with good traction. The Chimneys Ross Maxwell Drive 4.8/7.7 2 hours 400/122 Moderate due to length. Flat desert trail to promi- • Carry plenty of water, drink a gallon a day. mile 13 nent rock formations. Look for rock art. No shade. • Wide-brimmed hats or sunscreen are necessary precautions againt the desert sun. Upper Burro Ross Maxwell Drive 3.6/5.8 3 hours 525/160 Moderate Requires some modest route-fi nding • If you encounter a mountain lion or bear, Mesa Pouroff mile 6 through washes and narrow gorges to top of the DO NOT RUN! Yell, scream, wave your arms, pouroff. throw rocks or sticks, and look big. Mule Ears Spring Ross Maxwell Drive 3.8/6.1 3 hours 20/6 Moderate A beautiful desert hike to a small spring. • Do not allow children to run ahead or get mile 15 Spectacular geology and mountain/desert views. separated from the group. • Elevations in the Chisos Mountains reach over 7800 feet (2377 meters). If you are not Looking for more hikes? The Hiker’s Guide to the Trails of Big Bend National Park ($1.95) contains detailed listings of longer duration accustomed to high altitudes, even mild hikes and additional trails throughout the park and is available at all visitor center bookstores. Additional guides describing the paved and exertion may leave you feeling light-headed backcountry roads are also available. = Self-guiding trail = Handicapped accessible trail and nauseated.

The Big Bend Paisano 9 The Night Skies Birds and Birdwatching Ranger Mary Kay Manning Ranger Mark Flippo

Winter begins with Mars almost directly at Sirius, the brightest star in the night sky. Welcome to Big Bend National Park and the Cottonwood campgrounds), and the many overhead in the dim constellation Aries and Sirius is in the constellation Canis Major, the challenges of winter season bird watching. Of desert springs (Dugout Wells and Sam Nail Saturn rising in the east in the faint constel- Big Dog; on a clear night you can trace his the nearly 450 species reported in the park, Ranch). Other productive areas include the lation Cancer. There are no bright stars near entire body. almost a third of them occur here during the pinyon-juniper-oak belt (Green Gulch and either area, so these two planets should be winter months. Many of these are water- lower Lost Mine trail), the moist, wooded fairly easy to pick out. By the end of February, Vying with Orion for brightness is the pat- fowl and sparrows; the former along the Rio canyons of the high Chisos (Boot Canyon), Mars will move lower into the western sky tern of the Big Dipper, rising in the northern Grande, the latter haunting grassy areas in the the grassland/ shrub community along the and Saturn will be almost overhead. Those sky. Not a true constellation on its own, the lower and mid-elevation desert. The chal- lower slopes of the Chisos (Blue Creek Can- who arise before dawn will see Jupiter shining Big Dipper is actually part of the larger fi gure lenge of identifying winter plumage ducks yon), and the remaining lower desert areas. A in the southeast throughout the winter. Ursa Major, the Big Bear. Draw a line from and sparrows is huge, but not to worry. There checklist of birds is available for purchase at the pointer stars at the end of the dipper are other birds out there to lend diversity to any visitor center and is a great aid in deter- Cold winter nights provide perfect stargazing toward the west to fi nd Polaris, the North your list. mining which species are likely to be present conditions, particularly in Big Bend. Since Star. From our perspective, Polaris seems to and the habitats where they are found. A visit cold air holds very little moisture, starlight remain fi xed in place above our north pole. Easily found permanent residents of the to all these key habitats will provide the best appears more crisp and clear than on humid Because of this, people have used it for park, many of them unique to the desert opportunities to see birds and to build that summer nights. Our trajectory has us facing navigation for thousands of years. southwest, include greater roadrunner, cactus “Big Bend List.” the denser part of the Milky Way galaxy at Drawing the line from the Big Dipper’s wren, and black-throated sparrow. These are this time of year, so we see more stars – and pointers in the opposite direction leads to joined by species that spend only the winter While “listing” is a legitimate and fun activity, more bright stars – than on summer nights, Regulus, the brightest star in Leo the Lion. in Big Bend, migrating here from breeding keep in mind that many of the species that are when we face a sparser region of our galaxy. He begins to stalk the night sky shortly after grounds farther north, including ruby- the source of your enjoyment are members of The prevailing north winds this time of year sunset in January. crowned kinglet, orange-crowned warbler, populations in decline. Habitat destruction also assist stargazers here. There are few and green-tailed towhee. Mild weather may and degradation on both the wintering and pollution sources to our north, so cold fronts Yet another bright winter sky pattern is the even encourage some migrants to linger here, breeding grounds are bringing many of these tend to clean the air over Big Bend by blowing Great Square of Pegasus. It sits high in the as was the case with black-throated gray birds to the brink. You can help in several away airborne debris. western sky in December and drops toward warblers last year. To tempt the avid birder, ways. Come join us in the annual Christmas the west as the months go by. Like the Big there is always the possibility of discovering a Bird Counts held December 28 and 29 (ask Some of the brightest and easily recognizable Dipper, this fi gure is not a true constellation; rare, out-of-range species. During the annual at a visitor center for details). Tread softly in constellations decorate the sky on winter parts of both Andromeda and Pegasus share Chisos Circle Christmas Count in December fragile habitat areas, taking care not to dam- nights. Orion is the most prominent fi gure, the square. Picking out the image of a fl ying of 2004, two observant birders found a clay- age water sources. Don’t disturb birds with rising in the east in December. Look for the horse requires a star chart and a good colored robin at Sam Nail Ranch, providing a excessive noise or intrusive attempts at pho- reddish star Betelgeuse in his right shoulder imagination. Star gazers who make the fi rst record for the park. tography. Please share your observations with and blue-white Rigel at his left knee. The eff ort to trace Andromeda will be rewarded us, particularly of rare and accidental species. most distinctive feature of Orion, the three with seeing the little cloud of the Andromeda Patience, a good fi eld guide, and knowledge Your detailed reports becomes part of the stars in his belt, points toward the upper right Galaxy, 2.2 million light-years away. of where to look are the keys to locating the record and can be an aid to researchers. En- to red Aldebaran and the small brilliant star birds of Big Bend. First and foremost are joy the birds of winter, and do all that you can cluster of the Pleiades, both part of Taurus Happy star gazing! the riparian areas, including the corridor to ensure their return. the Bull. The belt stars point to the lower left of the Rio Grande (Rio Grande Village and

Constellations of the Winter

Ursa Major and Orion. Refer to a star chart for exact location and position of individual constellations. Green-tailed towhee Green-winged teal

Be a Friend to Big Bend

Founded in 1996, the Friends of Big Bend Get In On the $30-Per-Plate Fund Raiser National Park is a private not-for-profi t organiza- Big Bend custom plate are now available for your car, truck or motorcycle from the state of Texas and tion with a mission to support, promote, and most of the cost will be used to help preserve and protect Big Bend National Park, one of the world’s raise funds for Big Bend National Park in partner- last great wildernesses. It may be the most fulfi lling contribution you’ll ever make. ship with the National Park Service and other supporters who value the unique qualities of this national resource on the Rio Grande. The Friends of Big Bend National Park has funded a range of critical projects, including wildlife research programs, the purchase of equipment to monitor air and water quality, and the construction and renovation of Park infrastructure. PO Box 200 www.bigbendfriends.org Big Bend NP, TX 79834 432-477-2242

10 The Big Bend Paisano Keeping Wildlife Wild

Do Not Feed the Animals. Not even once. It’s bad for them, they can hurt you, and it’s against the law. Don’t touch, don’t feed.

Left: It’s no laughing matter. Javelina that become habituated to human food become more aggressive. Several visitors are bitten by javelinas each year. S. Verschoyle

There really are no problem animals — only problem people. Carelessness can kill. Please Help Don’t be responsible for the death of a wild animal. Your actions affect both Big Bend’s wildlife and future park visitors. With your help, wildlife and humans CAN live In Developed Campgrounds safely together in Big Bend National Park. • Store food, beverages, trash, toiletries, pet food, and dishes in the bearproof stor- Mountain Lions Javelinas Black Bears age locker provided at your site. • Keep your campsite clean. Take trash and If Big Bend National Park has a symbol, it For many visitors to Big Bend National Park, The return of black bears to Big Bend Nation- food scraps to a dumpster. might well be the mountain lion. Solitary and seeing a javelina (hav-uh-LEE-nuh) is a new al Park is a success story for both the bears • Dump liquids in restroom utility sinks, secretive, this mighty creature is Big Bend’s experience. These curious creatures, also and the park. Native to the Chisos Moun- not on the ground. top predator, and is vital in maintaining the known as collared peccaries, are only found tains, bears disappeared from this area during • Ice chests and coolers are not bear-proof; park’s biological diversity. Everywhere you go in the United States in Texas, New Mexico, the pre-park settlement era. After an absence store them in your vehicle. in Big Bend, you are in the territory of at least and Arizona. They are covered with black, of several decades, bears began returning to one lion. From mountain to desert, biologists bristly hairs and generally weigh between 40 the park from Mexico in the early 1990s. To- Cyclists estimate that the park has a stable population and 60 pounds. They usually travel in groups day, wildlife biologists estimate that between • Use food storage lockers when provided. of approximately two dozen lions. Within the called bands that consist of 10-25 individuals. 12-15 black bears may live in the park. delicate habitats of the Chihuahuan Desert, Peccaries have a highly developed sense of At the Lodge • Leave nothing outside your room, on the mountain lions help balance herbivores (ani- smell, but very poor vision. Black bears are omnivorous; their normal diet balcony, or on the porch. mals that eat plants) and vegetation. Research is comprised of large amounts of nuts, fruits, shows that these large predators help keep Physically, javelinas resemble pigs, but in real- sotol and yucca hearts, and smaller quantities In the Backcountry deer and javelina within the limits of their ity, they are not closely related to pigs at all of small mammals, reptiles, and carrion. • Never leave packs or food unattended. food resources. Without lions, the complex and have been genetically distinct from them • Avoid carrying odorous food and toilet- network of life in Big Bend would certainly for millions of years. Bears normally avoid humans, but bears that ries. be changed. learn to get food from human sources often • Leave excess food and beverages in your A javelina’s diet includes prickly pear cactus, become aggressive in their attempts to get trunk or food storage box. Since the 1950s, there have been more than grasses, mesquite beans, pinyon pine nuts, more “people” food. Rangers may have to • Carry out all trash, including orange 2,700 recorded sightings of mountain lions by fruits, berries, and seeds. Unfortunately kill bears that lose their fear of people and peels, cigarette butts, and left-over food. the visiting public within Big Bend National however, many javelinas now include human endanger humans in their attempts to get our • Ice chests and coolers are not bear-proof; Park. While 90% of sightings are along park food as part of their diet. Every year we are food. store them in your vehicle. roads, observations of lions on park trails also seeing more and more campsites in the park occur. While over 90 percent of these sight- raided by javelina. Although normally not Big Bend has made it easy to keep edible ings were along park roadways, encounters aggressive, they can be when food is involved. items away from bears. Campers at the Chisos along trails have also occurred. Since 1985, Protect yourselves and the javelina by prop- Basin Campground, at High Chisos back- three lion and human encounters have re- erly storing all your food inside a vehicle or packing sites, and at some primitive roadside If you encounter sulted in attacks on people. In all cases, those in the food storage lockers provided in the campsites will fi nd bearproof storage lockers attacked recovered from their injuries and campgrounds. Do not leave coolers or food for storing all edibles. Hard-sided vehicles a bear or mountain lion: the aggressive lions were killed. The more we boxes unattended on picnic tables or in a tent. are also suitable for storing edible items. All • Do not run (you may resemble prey). know about lions, the better able we will be to Flatten tents when you are away from your dumpsters throughout the park are bear- make life easier for them and for us. campsite. It is important that javelinas and all proof, as well. • Watch children closely and never let park animals eat their natural food sources to them run ahead or lag behind. A free informational brochure about moun- stay healthy and safe. With your help, these A free informational brochure about black tain lions is available at all visitor centers. unique animals can continue to thrive and bears is available at all visitor centers. • Try to look large. Wave your arms. thrill park visitors for years to come. Throw rocks or sticks at it.

• If attacked, fi ght back.

• Report any bear or mountain lion sight- ings or encounters to a park ranger as soon as possible. D. Onorato

The Big Bend Paisano 11 Information and Services Ranger Programs Lodging Fires Accessibilty Join a park ranger for a guided hike, evening The Chisos Mountains Lodge, operated by Ground fi res and wood fi res are prohibited All visitor centers are accessible. Wheelchair- slide show, talk, or workshop on Big Bend’s Forever Resorts Inc., is located in the Chisos throughout the park. Use only gas stoves or accessible campsites and restrooms are natural and cultural history. These free pro- Basin at 5,400 feet elevation. The lodge off ers charcoal within a BBQ grill. Pack out all evi- located in the Chisos Basin and Rio Grande grams are off ered daily. Consult the Inter- 72 rooms, plus a gift shop and dining room. dence of use, including ash. In the backcoun- Village Campgrounds. The Chisos Mountains Lodge restaurant is accessible, as are some pretive Activities Schedule posted on visitor For reservations or more information, please try, charcoal fi res are only allowed at roadside motel rooms. A Telecommunications Device center and campground bulletin boards for call (432) 477-2291 or visit their website at campsites and are prohibited in the High for the Deaf is available at park headquarters. more information. www.chisosmountainslodge.com Chisos or zone camping areas. Employees with sign language abilities may be available. Some ranger-led programs are also Camper Stores Gas Stations Public Phones / Cell Phones accessible. The Window View Trail is paved Forever Resorts Inc., operates camper stores Gasoline is available at two locations in the Public phones are located at visitor centers, and fairly level. A brochure on accessibility is year-round at three locations in the park: park operated by Forever Resorts Inc. The campgrounds, camper stores, and the Chisos available at all visitor centers. Castolon, the Chisos Basin, and Rio Grande Panther Junction station off ers 24-hour gas Mountains Lodge. Village. Groceries, camping supplies and sou- pumps with diesel, and can undertake minor Limited cell phone coverage is available in venirs are available in all locations. The gas repairs. The gas station at Rio Grande Village the Big Bend area. Do not depend on your station at Panther Junction also has a limited also provides propane. phone to work in the Chisos Basin or remote selection of groceries. portions of the park. Post Offi ce Banking A full-service Post Offi ce is located at the Recycling There are NO banking facilities in Big Bend Panther Junction headquarters, across the Please use the recycling cans provided in National Park. The nearest banking/ATM porch from the visitor center entrance. A campgrounds, around stores, and near visitor services are located in Study Butte, 26 miles mail drop is also available in front of the centers. On average, the park recycles around west of park headquarters. Most stores ac- Chisos Basin store. 100,000 pounds of aluminum, cardboard, cept major credit cards; however, some local glass, plastic, metal and other materials each services accept only cash. It is advisable to Showers and Laundry year. Every pound of material that can be have small bills ($1, $5, $10, $20) since larger Public showers and laundry facilities are recycled means one less pound buried in the All trails start here! The Chisos Basin trailhead is bills are often diffi cult to change. located at the Rio Grande Village store. park landfi ll. Please recycle! located just past the camper store in the Basin. Camping Trailers & RVs Campsite Reservations All park campgrounds can accommodate trailers and RVs, but vehicle lengths have a great deal Forty-three (43) sites at Rio Grande Village to do with safely reaching the campground and fi nding a suitable space. campground and twenty-six (26) sites at the Chisos Basin campground are reservable

The only hookups available in Big Bend National Park are at Rio Grande Village in the 25-site, Mark Doiron from November 15 to April 15 each year. Visi- Rio Grande Village RV Park operated by Forever Resorts Inc. Although there is no size restric- CChisoshisos BBasinasin CCampgroundampground tors may contact ReserveUSA year round to tion, your vehicle must be equipped with water and electrical hookups as well as a three-inch make reservations for the period of Novem- sewer connection. Register at the store. No advance reservations. Tent Camping ber 15 through April 15 of each year. All re- The National Park Service operates camp- maining campsites in these two campgrounds Near the RV park is the 100-site Rio Grande Village Campground operated by the National grounds at Rio Grande Village, the Chisos and the entire Cottonwood campground Park Service. Although there are no hookups, water, fl ush toilets, and a dump station are avail- Basin, and Castolon. The cost is $10.00 per remain on the fi rst-come fi rst-serve basis. able. Set in a large grove of cottonwoods, the campground is adjacent to the Rio Grande. Many night for a site. Campsite fees can be paid in of the sites are pull-throughs. Generator use is limited: from 8:00 am to 8:00 pm daily. A no- US currency, personal checks, or credit card. Campsite reservations may be made on-line generator use area is also designated. at www.reserveusa.com, or by calling 1-877- Camping is also available at primitive back- 444-6777. The 60-site Chisos Basin Campground is rugged and hilly. The sites are small and most are not country campsites in the Chisos Mountains suited to recreational vehicles or trailers. The road to the Basin is steep and curvy, especially at and along backcountry roads. High-clearance Group Camping or 4-wheel drive vehicles are necessary to Panther Pass—the road’s highest point. The road into the campground is a 15 percent grade. Groups of 10 or more are eligible to reserve reach most road sites. Backcountry permits Trailers longer than 20 feet and RVs longer than 24 feet are not recommended. a spot in one of the park’s Group campsites are required and can be obtained in person at the Rio Grande Village, Chisos Basin, and at park visitor centers up to 24 hours in ad- Cottonwood Campground, near Castolon, off ers pit toilets and potable water, but no hookups Cottonwood Campgrounds. Group sites are vance. or dump station. Cottonwood is a NO-generator campground. reservable year round and reservations may be made 360 days in advance. Reservations Camping areas are often full during the Big Bend’s unpaved roads are generally unsuitable for RVs and trailers. Overnight camping in for Rio Grande Village and the Chisos Basin Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, as well any primitive site requires a backcountry permit, which can be obtained in person at park campgrounds family-type sites may be made as during spring break in March or April. visitor centers up to 24 hours in advance. 240 days in advance through ReserveUSA.

Developed Campgrounds at a Glance

Elevation (ft/meters) Sites Nightly Fee Facilities Registration Comments Chisos Basin 5,401 / 1,646 60 $10.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Surrounded by rocky cliffs; many hiking trails nearby Cottonwood 2,169 / 661 31 $10.00* Pit toilets, no generator use allowed Self-pay station In a cottonwood grove along the river. Grassy sites. Good birding. Rio Grande Village 1,850 / 564 100 $10.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Largest campground; shady sites. Laundromat and showers nearby. Rio Grande Village RV 1,850 / 564 25 $21.00 and up Full hookups RGV Camper Store Concession-operated; adjacent to the RGV store. * $5.00 with Golden Age or Golden Access Passport

12 The Big Bend Paisano Backcountry Planning Getting a Permit Horses Floating the Rio Grande A free permit is required for all river use, Visitors are welcome to bring and use their The Rio Grande follows the southern bound- horse use, and overnight backcountry camp- horses in the park. A free stock-use permit is ary of Big Bend National Park for 118 miles. ing, and can be obtained in person only up to required and may be obtained in person at any In this distance it has carved three major Leave No Trace in 24 hours in advance of the trip. Permits can of the park’s visitor centers up to 24 hours in canyons, Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquil- Big Bend National Park can be written for as many as fourteen (14) advance of the trip. Every horse user should las, which have rapids varying in diffi culty consecutive nights in the backcountry. Park obtain a copy of the regulations regarding use from Class I to Class IV. Between the can- Plan ahead and prepare Big Bend is a land of extremes. Plan on staff can assist you with trip planning based of horses in the park. yons, the river is generally slower-paced. The high desert temperatures in the sum- on your needs and current trail conditions. Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River extends mer with little to no shade; in the winter Permits can be obtained at all visitor centers While horses are not permitted on paved downstream beyond the park boundary for freezing temperatures are possible in during normal operating hours. roads or road shoulders, all gravel roads an additional 127 miles. the Chisos Mountains. Schedule your are open to horses. Cross-country travel is visit to avoid peak season. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups Backcountry sites throughout the park are permitted in the park, except in the Chisos If you plan to take a river trip in Big Bend of 4-6. Use a map and compass to elimi- diffi cult to obtain during the Thanksgiving Mountains where horse use is limited to the National Park, you may bring your own nate the use of marking paint, rock and Christmas holidays, and during spring Laguna Meadow, Southwest Rim, and Blue equipment, or you can hire a guide service. cairns or fl agging. break in March and early April. Creek trails. Horses are not permitted in pic- Four local companies (see page 16 for tele- nic areas, on nature trails, the Santa Elena and phone listings) provide guide service in the Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Plan Ahead Boquillas Canyon Trails, or the Pine Canyon park—you may reserve a trip by contacting Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, and gravel. Trail. The Chisos Mountain and Burro Mesa them directly. Detailed information on backcountry camp- Protect riparian areas by camping at sites in the Chisos Mountains and along the trails are day-use only. least 100 yards from springs, creek beds, backcountry roads are available on the park’s If you plan to use your own equipment, you and tinajas. Good campsites are found, website at www.nps.gov/bibe Grazing within the park is not permitted, so must obtain a free permit at a park visitor not made. While on the trail, walk in single fi le in the middle of the trail, even A wide variety of maps, books, hiking guides you must bring your own feed. Stock may center. Stop by the Panther Junction Visitor be watered in the Rio Grande and at springs Center for your permit and for current river when wet or muddy. Keep campsites and river guides are available for purchase at small. Focus on areas where vegetation that are not used for domestic water supply. condition information prior to your trip. park visitor centers. If you would like to or- is absent. der them in advance of your trip, call the Big Be prepared to haul water for your stock as Bend Natural History Association at 432-477- springs are unreliable, especially during win- Permits for the Lower Canyons of the Rio Dispose of Waste Properly 2236 or visit their online internet bookstore ter months. Check current spring conditions Grande Wild and Scenic River may be ob- Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or at www.bigbendbookstore.org at a visitor center when you arrive. All horse tained at the Persimmon Gap Visitor Center manure and feed remnants must be removed (a self-permitting station is available for spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human from the park, or deposited at a designated after-hours use). Permits for fl oating Santa Backcountry Water waste in cat-holes dug 6 to 8 inches location near the NPS horse corral at Panther Elena Canyon may be obtained at the Barton The dry desert air quickly uses up the body’s deep at least 1/4 mile from water, camp, Junction (ask a ranger for directions). Warnock Center in Lajitas. However, we and trails. Cover and disguise the cat- water reserves. Each hiker should carry and encourage all parties to get their permits at a hole when fi nished. Pack out toilet pa- drink a minimum of one gallon of water for You may camp with your horses at many of the park visitor center when possible, to obtain per and hygiene products. each day they are in the backcountry. Spigots park’s primitive road campsites. The Govern- the most up-to-date river information and for drinking water are available at all visitor Leave What You Find ment Springs campsite, located 3½ miles west conditions. centers. Preserve the past. Examine, but do not of Panther Junction, is a primitive campsite touch, cultural or historic structures with a corral large enough for 6 horses. If you Big Bend is a desert environment. Springs and artifacts. Leave rocks, wildfl owers plan to bring horses to the park, you may re- and other natural objects as you find and tinajas (depressions in rock where water serve this campsite up to 10 weeks in advance them. Avoid introducing or transport- collects) are rare and often unreliable and ing non-native species. Do not build by calling 432-477-1158. should be fi ltered. Every gallon removed from structures, furniture, or dig trenches. backcountry water sources is one less for the wildlife which depend on them. Please Backcountry Roads Minimize Campfi re Impacts carry enough water to supply your own needs For those who wish to camp in the backcoun- Campfires are not allowed in Big Bend National Park. In order to cook foods — don’t risk your life by depending on desert try without having to backpack, Big Bend you may use a backpacking stove, por- off ers over seventy primitive campsites along springs. Caching water is recommended for table fuel stove or the barbeque grills in extended hiking trips in the desert. backcountry roads. Most sites are located in your campsite. the desert and along the River Road. There Hiking & Backpacking are no primitive roadside campsites in the Respect Wildlife Chisos Mountains. While some sites are Observe Big Bend’s wildlife from a dis- Big Bend National Park off ers over 100 miles accessible to most vehicles, a high clearance tance. Do not follow or approach them. of hiking trails in the Chisos Mountains and Never feed wild animals. Feeding wild and/or four wheel drive vehicle is neces- desert terrain. A free permit is required for animals damages their health, alters sary to reach others. Other than a nice view, all overnight trips in the backcountry. Decide natural behaviors, and exposes them isolation, and a fl at gravel space, these sites how much distance you want to cover and to predators and other dangers. Pro- off er no amenities and no shade. There is no tect wildlife and your food by storing how much time you have. Desert hiking can charge to use these sites, but a backcountry rations and trash securely. Pets are not be unpleasant or deadly in hotter months. allowed in the backcountry or on trails. permit is required. Pets should be on leash and under su- In the Chisos Mountains, the Southeast Rim pervision at all times. Trail and a portion of the Northeast Rim Trail from the Boot Canyon/Southeast Rim junc- Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the tion are closed during the peregrine falcon quality of their experience. Be courte- nesting season (February 1 - May 31). ous. Yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail Zone camping permits are available for back- when encountering pack stock. Take packers who wish to camp outside of the breaks and camp away from trails and Top: A comfortable campsite in the lower canyons of other visitors. Let nature’s sound pre- Chisos Mountains. The park is divided into the Rio Grande. vail. Avoid loud voices and noises. a number of zones ranging from areas along popular trails to extremely isolated areas. Bottom: Camping along the backcountry roads.

The Big Bend Paisano 13 Pets in the Park Big Bend is for Kids Explore! Become a Junior Ranger! Big Bend’s habitats range from the Chihuahuan Desert to the Rio Learn desert secrets, identify the parts of a cac- Grande to the Chisos Mountains, and all are rich with plants, animals, tus, and discover what and stories of human history, giving children plenty of opportunity to javelina eat! The Big Bend Junior Ranger pro- explore. gram is designed for kids of all ages. Through activities, games, and puzzles, kids can have fun Kids visiting the park enjoy the exhibits and relief map of the park at as they learn about the park. They can also earn a the Panther Junction badge or patch, a bookmark, and a certifi cate. Visitor Center, the Fossil Bone Exhibit area, the Hot Springs, the sand dune in Boquillas Canyon, the mountain lion exhibit at the Chisos The Junior Ranger Activity Book costs $2.00 and is available at all park Basin Visitor Center, and the hands-on exhibits at the Castolon Visitor visitor centers. Center.

What Not to Do Get kids involved in ranger-led programs. These include guided hikes, “I led a bird walk at Rio Grande Village this slide programs, bird walks, and explorations of various park features. morning. A woman asked if she and her dog could join our hike. When I told her Check the schedule at any visitor center to make sure you take advan- that she was welcome but the dog was tage of all the available programs. Stop by any visitor center for further not, she tied the poodle to a picnic table suggestions. and joined the group. After the hike, as we approached the woman’s campsite, Hike a Trail! instead of fi nding ‘Fifi ’ yapping away at Many park trails are suitable for families. Consult the listing of Easy us, we discovered only its remains. A and Moderate Hikes on page 9. For children in strollers, consider the javelina was just completing a poodle- Window View Trail, a paved ¼-mile loop trail that begins at the Chisos dinner.” Basin trailhead. Remember to watch children closely and never let - Ro Wauer Chief Naturalist, 1970 them run ahead or lag behind.

Pets in a Wilderness Park Having a pet with you will limit your ac- tivities and explorations in the park. In addition, desert temperatures and preda- tors are a serious threat to your pet’s well being. Please keep in mind the following Right: Many ranger-guided walks and programs are kid-friendly! points when bringing a pet to to the park:

• A National Park is a refuge for the animals and plants living within it. Even if your pet doesn’t chase animals, dogs present the The Story of the “Leaverite” Ranger Dan Leavitt image and scent of a historical predator. The result is stress on native wildlife. A typical summer day passes slowly in the I remember the fi rst time a visitor showed me If you do happen upon a fossil or archaeo- • Keep your pet on a leash no longer than visitor center when a young man enters a leaverite. I was fresh out of college and had logical site, we have specifi c forms that you six feet in length (or in a cage) at all times. the visitor center and yells, “That’s it! Right no idea how to identify one. A visitor walked can complete to describe the area and what Pets are not allowed on park trails, or any- there!” He points to the giant silhouette of a up to the Panther Junction information desk you saw. Remember, it is unlawful to trans- where off established roadways. Pets may Quetzalcoatlus, a large pterodactyl displayed with four pounds of black stone in his hands. port natural resources and cultural artifacts not be left unattended in the park. on the fl oor of the visitor center. His brother He asked, “What kind of rock is this?” As I through the park if there is no proof of their approaches exclaiming, “Whoa! That’s much stumbled for words, my coworker stepped up purchase. So a word to the wise; unless you • Predators such as owls, coyotes, jave- bigger than the one that we saw.” and responded, “Looks like a leaverite to me!” have a receipt you are liable for illegal posses- lina, and mountain lions CAN and DO kill sion of natural resources and cultural re- pets here. Even large dogs cannot defend Shocked, I wonder where these boys saw a “What kind of rock is a leaverite?” the man sources in a national park. In March of 1999, themselves against such predators. pterodactyl. I’ve been here for more than asked. Having never heard of this before, I a man was fi ned $600 dollars for possessing three years, and have never seen one. Maybe too was wondering. “It’s the kind that when archeological and geological resources. Remember, desert heat is deadly. Do NOT leave your pet alone in a vehicle. Pets are they saw it on the DVD player attached to you see it, you leave ‘er right where you found not allowed on trails, off roads, or on the the back of the car seat, or in a brochure they ‘er.” In a few words and with a bit of humor Those two boys had collected a piece of rock, river. picked up in a museum. I ask, “Where did you she was able to say what I wanted to, but was brought it miles from its original location, Pets are not allowed on see a pterodactyl?” unable to voice. and handed it to us for identifi cation. What trails or in backcountry they were unable to provide was a descriptive areas. They explained that while hiking with their Leaverites are all resources, big and small, in location, which is of much more importance The following kennel and veterinary father they had stopped for a rest and wan- all of our national parks, and are protected than handing in a small piece of rock that services operate in the greater Big Bend dered into a cave, one that is right off a busy from poaching and collecting. They come in no longer holds signifi cance. They may have area: trail. While in the cave the boys claimed to all shapes, sizes, colors, and a variety of tex- found an amazing creature but, because of have found the fossilized remains of a large tures, smells, and tastes. Whether it’s a ptero- the lack of positional information, we may Terlingua Creek Kennels (Oct-April) fl ying reptile. One of them even contorts his dactyl or just a rock that you do not think of never know exactly what they saw. Terlingua, TX body to demonstrate the exact way the crea- as signifi cant, please leave it right where you (432) 371-2348 ture’s remains were positioned in the cave. found it. If you need a memento, take a pho- While wandering around the park remember

Red Woof Inn of the Big Bend For further evidence one the boys hands me tograph or make a drawing, but please do not your fellow park stewards. Do them a favor if Alpine, Texas a small piece of the supposed beast, a rock take pieces of Big Bend National Park home you fi nd something of interest; leave ‘er right (432) 837-7475 fragment, mostly white, but too small to tell or into a visitor center for identifi cation. My where you found ‘er and let a ranger know its origin. They had stripped it from the fos- mother used to remind me as a child; “If if it is signifi cant. In this way, generations of Alpine Veterinary Clinic sil, and now asked if I could verify its origins. everyone were to walk out of this place with a interested park visitors can enjoy Big Bend’s Alpine, Texas And so begins yet another story involving the rock, there wouldn’t be anything worth look- resources just as you have. Remember what (432) 837-3888 leaverites of Big Bend National Park. ing at anymore!” mom told you and remember the leaverites. 14 The Big Bend Paisano Safety is Your Responsibility

Big Bend is unfamiliar country to most visitors yet it need not be dangerous. Whether hiking the Big Bend is wild country. In fact, many people visit precisely because it is so remote and rugged. But highcountry, rafting the Rio Grande, observing wildlife, or simply driving the scenic roads of this remember, as you enjoy the splendor of this great wilderness area, to make safety a priority. By wilderness park, let safety be your constant companion. Spend a moment reviewing these common giving forethought to your actions you can have a safe, exciting, and rewarding experience in Big safety concerns so that you may have an enjoyable visit. Bend National Park.

Driving Hiking Mountain Lions Fire Of the few accidental deaths in Big Bend that Exploring this desert and mountain country Big Bend is mountain lion country, especially Fire danger is always an important safety occur each year, most result from car acci- on foot requires both mental and physical the Chisos Mountains. While lion attacks are consideration in Big Bend. Wood or ground dents. Drive within the speed limit, 45 mph preparation. Trails vary from well maintained rare, three have occurred in the last twenty fi res are not permitted in the park, and you maximum in the park, and watch for javelina, in the Chisos to primitive and barely visible in years. Should you encounter an aggressive must exercise caution in the use of gas stoves, deer, and rabbits grazing along road shoul- the desert. Plan hikes within your ability. Take mountain lion, hold your ground, wave your charcoal grills, and cigarettes. During drought ders, especially at night. Federal regulations along a map and compass and know how to arms, throw stones, and shout. Never run. conditions some restrictions may apply to require that ALL occupants of a vehicle wear use them. Flash fl oods may occur following Keep groups together and consider hiking the use of these heat sources. Check with a seats belts while in a national park. Remem- thunderstorms so avoid narrow canyons or elsewhere with young children if you come ranger for the latest information about fi re ber, too, that you share the road with bicy- dry washes. Stay low and avoid ridges dur- across a special mountain lion warning sign safety in the park. clists and pedestrians. Some park roads, such ing thunderstorms. Carry a fl ashlight and a posted at a trailhead. as the road into the Chisos Basin, are steep fi rst aid kit. Let someone know where you’re Swimming and winding and require extra caution. The going and when you expect to return. If you Desert Wildlife Hot weather makes the muddy Rio Grande Basin Road is not recommended for RVs over get hurt or lost, stay in one place to conserve Black bears, javelinas, skunks, coyotes, and look very inviting, but swimming is not rec- 24 feet or trailers over 20 feet. Finally, always water and energy. Signal for help; three blasts raccoons frequent Big Bend’s campgrounds. ommended. Water borne micro-organisms select a designated driver before drinking on a whistle is a well-recognized distress call. Although they sometimes appear tame, all of and other waste materials can occur in the alcoholic beverages. In remote areas, a large “X” marked on the the animals in the park are wild, and could river and cause serious illness. The river can ground by any means visible from the air will pose a threat to your health and safety if you be hazardous, even in calm-looking water. signify that help is needed. Carry a signal mir- Poisonous Animals attempt to approach or feed them. Never Strong undercurrents, deep holes, and shal- ror. Remember to obtain a free backcountry Venomous snakes, scorpions, spiders, and feed any of Big Bend’s wildlife. To prevent low areas with sharp rocks and large tree use permit before heading out overnight. centipedes are all active during the warmer these creatures from becoming habituated limbs are common and make the Rio Grande months. Wear shoes or boots at night instead to people, store all food, coolers, cooking unsafe for swimming. If you do choose to of sandals. Inspect shoes and sleeping bags or Heat utensils, and toiletries in a hard-sided vehicle, swim, wear a life jacket and avoid alcohol. bedding before use and always carry a fl ash- Desert heat can kill you. Carry and drink at preferably in the trunk of your car. Food light at night. While snake bites are rare, they least one gallon per person, per day. Wear a storage lockers are available for hikers and If you really want to swim, Balmorhea State usually occur below the knee or elbow. Pay hat, long pants, long-sleeved shirt, and sun campers in the Chisos Mountains. Dispose of Park (three hours north of Big Bend) boasts attention to where you walk and place your screen when hiking. Springs are unreliable garbage properly in the special animal-proof the “world’s largest spring-fed swimming hands. and often dry up for a portion of the year. dumpsters and trash cans provided. pool.” Contact Balmorhea State Park at 432- Avoid hiking during mid-day in summer; Remember to report all bear or lion sightings 375-2370 for more information. travel in the early morning or late evening to a ranger. hours rather than during the heat of the day.

Survive the Sun Weather and Climate In all seasons, whether walking, backpacking, or day hiking, follow these tips to Weather conserve your internal water reserves: How Hot Is It? Elevational diff erences in Big Bend mean that Average temperatures and rainfall at Panther Junction temperatures can be vastly diff erent in diff er- elevation 3,750 feet REDUCE YOUR ACTIVITY ent areas of the park. The lower areas along Avg. High/Low Avg. Rainfall” During the warmest days, generally from May through August, avoid hiking in the lower eleva- the Rio Grande are very hot during the sum- tions during the heat of the day — generally from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. January 61/35 .46 mer months, while the Chisos Mountains are considerably cooler. Winter weather gener- FIND SHADE February 66/34 .34 Shade in the desert means the difference between excessive heat gain from the radiant sun and ally occurs between November and February, March 77/45 .31 sheer comfort. In an emergency, a person resting in the shade will survive longer than someone with temperatures dropping dramatically as exposed to the sun. cold fronts move through the area. Between April 81/52 .70 June and October thunderstorms and fl ash DRINK YOUR WATER fl oods may occur. Bring clothing for both May 88/59 1.50 Don’t try to conserve the drinking water you have. Whether strolling in the Basin, or hiking the warm and cool weather, as well as rain gear, June 94/66 1.93 South Rim Trail, you must DRINK your available water. Carry plenty of drinking water -- at least 1 when visiting Big Bend any time of the year. gallon per person per day. Balance your food and water intake. Eat a salty snack every time you July 93/68 2.09 take a drink of water. What to Expect in Winter August 91/66 2.35 Winters are generally mild, although REDUCE ALCOHOL & CAFFEINE INTAKE September 86/62 2.12 Water is the best remedy for dehydration and listlessness. The diuretic effects of caffeine and periods of cold weather (including light alcohol can result in an accelerated loss of body water. snow or ice) are possible. Fronts and storms October 79/53 2.27 can blow in quickly, lowering temperatures November 66/42 .70 PROTECT YOUR BODY throughout the park. Our sensitive skin burns easily; it needs shade, sunscreen, sunglasses, a widebrimmed hat, and December 62/36 .57 proper footwear. Dehydration is accelerated by exposed skin, so keep your clothing on. Wear Winter visitors must prepare for a variety long-sleeved, loose-fi tting, light-colored clothes. of conditions. Rain gear and extra layers of Yearly Avg. 79/47 15.34” warm clothing are a good idea for all day Temperatures in the Chisos Basin vary 5-10 hikes and backcountry trips. degrees below these readings, while daytime temperatures along the Rio Grande average 5-10 degrees warmer.

The Big Bend Paisano 15 Park Map

Local Services Big Bend on the Internet: nps.gov/bibe/

Inside The Park Outside The Park

EMERGENCY Call 911 Lodging Medical Services Lajitas Resort, Lajitas 877-525-4827 Terlingua Medics 432-371-2536 National Park Service Big Bend Motor Inn, Study Butte 800-848-2363 Lajitas Infi rmary 432-424-5111 General Information 432-477-2251 Easter Egg Valley Motel, Study Butte 432-371-2254 Big Bend Regional Medical Center, Alpine 432-837-3447 El Dorado Motel, Terlingua 432-371-2111 Big Bend Natural History Association Gage Hotel, Marathon 432-386-4205 Banks Booksales & Seminars 432-477-2236 Heath Canyon Ranch Inn, FM 2627 432-376-2235 Quicksilver Bank & ATM, Study Butte 432-371-2211 Longhorn Ranch Hotel, Hwy. 118 432-371-2541 Visitor Centers Marathon Motel, Marathon 432-386-4241 Rio Grande Float Trip Outfi tters/Rentals/Guide Services Castolon 432-477-2666 Ten Bits Ranch, Terlingua 866-371-3110 Big Bend River Tours, Study Butte 800-545-4240 Chisos Basin 432-477-2264 Terlingua Ranch Resort 432-371-2416 Desert Sports, Terlingua 888-989-6900 Panther Junction 432-477-1158 Rio Grande Adventures, Study Butte 800-343-1640 Persimmon Gap 432-477-2393 Camping Far Flung Outdoor Center, Study Butte 800-839-7238 Rio Grande Village 432-477-2271 Big Bend Motor Inn, Study Butte 800-848-2363 Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas 432-424-3327 Horseback Riding U.S. Post Offi ce Big Bend Travel Park, Study Butte 432-371-2250 Big Bend Stables, Study Butte & Lajitas 800-887-4331 Panther Junction 432-477-2238 Heath Canyon Ranch, FM 2627 432-376-2235 Spring Creek Remuda, 23 mi. south of Marathon 432-376-2260 Longhorn Ranch, Study Butte 432-371-2541 Lodging / Restaurant Ocotillo Mesa RV Park, Study Butte 800-729-1406 Chisos Mountains Lodge 432-477-2291 Stillwell’s Trailer Camp, FM 2627 432-376-2244 The facilities and services listed here are located within the greater Big 432-477-2292 Study Butte RV Park 432-371-2468 Bend area, and vary from 30 to 100 miles from Big Bend National Park. Terlingua Ranch Resort 432-371-2416 The communities of Terlingua/Study Butte (30 miles west) and Marathon (70 miles north) offer basic services, including gas stations, restaurants, Park Gasoline Service lodging, and campgrounds. Alpine, 90 miles to the northwest of the park Panther Junction (also diesel) 432-477-2294 Convenience Stores/Gasoline is the largest community and offers the greatest number of services. Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293 Big Bend Motor Inn (gas/diesel) 800-848-2363 Lajitas Trading Post (gas/supplies) 432-424-3234 This listing of local services is a courtesy to our visitors and implies no Study Butte Store (gas/diesel/groceries) 432-371-2231 Campground Stores endorsement by the National Park Service or Big Bend National Park. Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293 Stillwell Store & Station (gas) 432-376-2244 Chisos Basin 432-477-2291 Castolon 432-477-2222

16 The Big Bend Paisano